How to Frame Metal Garage with Wood 2x4s | DIY Metal Building Framing
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- Опубліковано 1 гру 2021
- How to frame steel building with wood for insulation and walls. Episode 23.
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Here's a tour of this Carolina Carports metal building showing how it was built: ua-cam.com/video/_Oago5isnT0/v-deo.html
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Nice, I want to do the same to my 24x50...one wall at a time, lol. You guys are great!
Thanks for watching. We still haven't finished the inside.....but we will! Brad&Deb
We're in the PNW and are having to frame for insulation so that it doesn't "rain" (condensation) on all of my woodworking equipment. This video is very helpful because I'm going to be framing myself (as a woodworker). Thanks so much!
you're welcome.....we still aren't finished. Maybe this summer??
Worth watching for the dog alone. Nice.
Bella comes over all the time! We have a whole fence series you can find in a playlist where we tried to keep her on her property....but she still comes over. You will see her a lot in our videos. Thanks for watching. Brad&Deb
I like the way you did yours ,l did mine differently l ran my 2x4’s horizontal and attached them directly to the square tube using 2 and 3/4 “ self drilling screws so my spray on insulation is 4” thick and flush on the outside.l tried a few different ways and that worked best for me.Thanks for sharing your project .
unfortunately, we still haven't gotten to the spray foam. And your way sounds less painful than what we went through!
@@PineyGroveHomestead Yeah l am almost done with the interior walls then l can get the pex and conduit in,my building is 24’x38’with 14’ sidewalls l am doing 3” thick on the ceiling and 4” on the sidewalls it’s going to be about 3400.00 ,so l think it’s a bargain mainly because l don’t want to be 17’ off the ground trying to get conventional insulation put up ... I don’t like heights lol.Again thanks for the great videos and take care my friend.
I think your comment answered my question. I’m wanting to attach some 2x4s to the posts in my metal 20x40 shed. Don’t want to put holes on the outside of the metal sheets, too much of a chance for leaking to happen.
@@Kimsigns2 Cool ,they are Tek’s self drilling screws l got at Home Depot l use a 1/2” drive Dewalt cordless drill to install them and it works great.
Thanks for the video. New subscriber here. I have a 24 x 48 metal building. The front is for car garage and back is apartment we framed and finished and a shop. I am searching for a way to put up wood studs on the metal purlins for an OSB sheet. Securing the studs to the purlin is tricky with hard metal. I like the bracket you used. We toenailed the metal screws. Also, this building was installed 20 years ago and I have to trim back the spayed foam to mount the wood studs. Another fun aspect. Depending on how easy it is to fasten to the metal I might go with 2’ centers rather than standard 16” centers for studs. Oh on my metal building I have a purlin that is horizontal about 3’ - 4’ high. So just start my studs at that level. In the garage area we have left the bottom part open I am not sure of the final approach we will use. In any case it should be nice to hang more storage on those walls. Thanks again for your video. I smiles when the dog was “helping”.
We still need to finish this project! Here are a couple of other videos on our buildings: ua-cam.com/video/QLtFuxvJfhY/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/_Oago5isnT0/v-deo.html
This is awesome!
We need to finish it and do a follow-up video!
You made a very good video
Thank you. That was one of our first.....we like to think we are better at it now!
I have a metal building and they can be challenging at times when adding shelving or whatever.
I've got 2 4x8x8 pallet racks on the floor that will go on the back wall. Plus the racks you see beside the excavator. And I will run shelving along the whole East wall...likely 2 different levels. If I have to, I will have some custom "L" brackets welded up and fasten with those self tapping screws. Also want to try to get some headers and maybe create a loft in the center for storage! So many ideas....just coming along slowly. Thanks for watching. Brad&Deb
Thank you for making this video I really appreciate it I'm about to get a 30X 40 steel building and I want to do the same
That's an older video. Here is spray foaming of that building recently: ua-cam.com/video/QvVmNG3h2NE/v-deo.html
@PineyGroveHomestead Thank you I will be checking it out
Yep those angle brackets that secure the roof structure are definitely a pain in the but.😂
I just took my rafter ties off to frame the interior walls. Painted them and then reinstalled after sheathing was up.
Thanks for watching. Help me understand how you attach them after you sheath, as they are screwed directly to the side of the vertical 2.25" metal studs. Once you remove them and sheath the wall, how can you reattach them? Unless you cut them and attach them above the sheathing in which case I'd rather cut some square tubing and weld them in place. Interested to hear more about your solution. Thanks, Brad&Deb
Great video! My 30 x 45 foot eagle building was erected a couple of days ago and I am excited to get to work. Can you clarify regarding the 2 x 4 ripping. You ripped the studs to 2 -1/4 inches. Is the tubing on your building 2-1/4 inches or do you have a 1/4 inch gap between the wood and the metal siding?
The tubing in 2 1/4 so the ripped studs on edge go against the metal. In the open part of shed, we put full sized 2x4s on flat, so there is a gap behind them. Here's another video that might show that: ua-cam.com/video/_Oago5isnT0/v-deo.html
Thanks for watching. Brad&Deb
I built this metal buildings and you can make the brace shorter and above the wood frame no problem
Thanks for the information!
Nice job to both of you. Quick question, what size self-tapping screws did you use?
Thank you. We'll look at the bag next time we are there but I think the head size is 5/16s
Do you have a video on how you did your plumbing? I'm in the process of doin a building like yours and was wondering on how you did your plumbing with the metal studs? TIA
Before the concrete pour, they stubbed in the septic and a water line. We didn't document the plumbers building out the bathroom and shower but once the drains were in, they built 2x4 walls inside of the metal framing and plumbed it from there. This video shows some of the plumbing stub in: ua-cam.com/video/_Oago5isnT0/v-deo.html
I am currently doing the electrical on my metal building and had a question. Did you mount any exterior electrical boxes for lights, outdoor electrical outlets? If so, how did you do it? Because the wall thickness is only 2 1/2" thick, it makes it hard to mount the box outside and run conduit through the wall and make the 90 degree turn up the wall back to the electrical panel.
Yes, we did. The front exterior light is centered in the gable with 4 wall anchors with wings like you use in drywall....it's not even on a support because there wasn't one there. One the new house side of the building (lots has changed since this video), the boxes are weatherproof and completely external. They used flexible metal conduit not hard conduit and the 90s are more like sweeps than bends. It's not perfectly "clean", but it's the best you can do in those tight spots. We'll spray foam eventually, so you won't see it. Might some better video here: ua-cam.com/video/_Oago5isnT0/v-deo.html
Great video, keep it up!! Just out of curiosity, what’s the brand and specs on the trailer in the background with the two four seat can ams?
not sure I'm tracking on what you're asking? what time hack in the video?
I saw your water lines are against the outside wall and behind the steel studs. Even though the spray insulation is sprayed over them did you have any freezing issues with the water line against the exterior metal?
It still hasn't been foamed...it's scheduled for next week though! To answer your question, we are in Florida, so we don't see temps cold enough to freeze pipes very often. Usually we get one or two days of cold and then it warms up.
at frame 17:52 wouldn't you want to flip that bracket attaching the wood to the steel frame the other way so the wood rests ontop not suspended from above? this is a great video as im looking into framing the inside of a metal shop to add shelving and a OSB finish. thank you for posting this!
Putting it underneath would hide it under the OSB. I probably put it on the top because of drill clearance issues with some vertical studs. We still haven't finished this project but hope to this winter!
@@PineyGroveHomestead I've seen people do it the same way you are but other say you are not supposed to attach the wood to the steel building because its not rated for the additional stress. Have you came across any issues yet?
@@slimesspeedshoptv I don't know what stress the wood would cause. If the outside metal was vertical instead of horizontal, there would be metal framing where the wood is now. Also, I would think that the wood and then sheathing would only make the wall stronger, but I'm not an engineer.
@@slimesspeedshoptv I've been working on a similar project for a customer and so far all the framing has passed inspection by the County building code enforcement
what tiype and size of metal screws did you use to mount the brackets onto the metal frame?
They were self tapping sheet metal screws. I think they were galvanized and the bit size was 1/4" or 5/16". They gave me a bag of them, but they are something you can buy at Lowes or HD.
Do you have any issues with wood and steel having different heat expansion properties? Is there any stress or warping happening during summer/winter temperature fluctuations?
Not that we've seen.
Man, bella killed us. You should post as comedy too...
She comes over a lot. And to make it more confusing, we named our dog Bella! Thanks for watching. Brad&Deb
You know that corner you built out for conduit,what ur supposed to do is form your conduit in the form of an S then you follow up the wall about four inches then roll conduit back out one row higher in your sheet metal..then it's a sharp clean corner
That's on the electrician!
What did you use to attach the ripped 2x4’s to the metal? Either the posts of the outside wall of aluminum. I’d think that would put holes in walls and cause more problems.
I believe we show all this in the video. We use L-brackets to attach the wood to the steel building studs. We don't penetrate the sheet metal of the building, just the steel framing.
Are those the brackets by Sampson that they sell in the building department at Lowes?
Also, at 15:23 what kind of drill bit is that?
Yes, those are the L brackets. Any galvanized L bracket will work. That's a reamer bit....flared out the hole for countersinking. I think they are fairly common.
Did you consider using a 2x6 ripped twice?
Not at the time but it might have been more cost effective that way as 2x4s were $6 at the time. I don't remember how much 2x6s were. Something to keep in mind going forward.
where did you buy the outside tin for the walls thx
It's a Carolina Carports building. Build video here: ua-cam.com/video/_Oago5isnT0/v-deo.html
A short cut on those truss supports is this ...take a pair of sheet metal sheers,and make a 45 degree angle cut about halfway,then while it's still screwed into place cut out notches..them unscrew bottom of support...and push the support where u notched it out towards the stud...that way there is no cutting and the bottom will lay flat on top the stud...and is still supporting weight...it's the best way clean neat and easy...
That makes sense. We still haven't sheathed it yet.
Would this framing pass inspection? We’re in the process of transforming a metal garage into a home
Codes are regional (state and county) so I would check with them. Thanks for watching.
The walls aren’t load bearing. The steel is load bearing. Also 2x3 are perfect for metal buildings do to them really being 2 1/2 x1 3/4
Another great 👍 video!
Bella really is a loving pup.
Curious about the process of building your mega shed first. What permits and improvements did you have to do before you got to this point and for your mega shed.
I'd like to follow your process for my own development so I can establish a shed for storage and a base of operations before building a home. I am several hours away and need to get the basics done 1st.
I can give you my email and or cell number if you'd be willing share that information and rather not put it on this platform.
I know you are very busy so it's ok if not. Your videos have been very insightful.
Thank you!
We don't mind sharing our thoughts, but the correct (and legal) answers are going to come from your county's building and land planning department. If you have a Facebook account, go to our Facebook link at the top right side of our UA-cam home page. Once on Facebook, you can send us an instant private message. Brad&Deb
Do you think the boards on end will be ok when you spray foam? I know the foam expands, I’m hoping it expands around the board and doesn’t bow it out
We are going to use closed cell spray foam which doesn't expand as much. And also, I believe (because I am no expert on foam) when it does expand it will go to the area of least resistance. But definitely something I will ask the installer. Thanks for watching. Brad&Deb.
Hows the MDF install going? 😭😂🤣👍🤦😅👍
Right? Still not installed 2 years later, but it's bought and in a pile on the floor waiting (OSB).
how long did it take them to deliver and install? (Carolina carports)
This video talks about the building: ua-cam.com/video/_Oago5isnT0/v-deo.html
@@PineyGroveHomestead im not asking about full details of your custom building i was wondering how long it took for them to come deliver it is all i wanted to know.
Great video. I am in the process of building a 20x60 residential Carolina Carport. Took a while to get the proper engineering but finally got it. I need to make my slab 3 3/4 inches wider then the building. I need to create a drop from the edge of the building to the edge of my slab so as to help with water intrusion. This wider slab was needed to get engineering so that the lag bolts were not so near the edge of the slab. I am waiting to hear from my concrete guy to figure that out. One question. Why didnt you just turn all the 2x4's on their side instead of cutting the outside boards down? Thanks in advance.
Did you see this video? I talked about the concrete in this one: ua-cam.com/video/_Oago5isnT0/v-deo.html
I'm not sure I understand the question. The 2x4s on the East Wall (sun hits it first) are on the side (or flat) and full-sized rather than ripped down and put on edge against the metal so that spray foam can get behind them and insulate against the hot Florida sun. Let me know if that answers your question.
@@PineyGroveHomestead Yes I saw that video. Your slab is the same size as your main building. I understand how you slopped the concrete on the entrance. My slab for my residential building has a little bit different engineering. I must make my slab 3-3/4 inches bigger then the building on all 4 sides. I have been searching UA-cam to find out how to make the slab have a 1" drop at the edge of the building as to help with water intrusion. I am trying to say the since I must make my slab bigger then the building, I was hoping to see how to pour the concrete and make the perimeter of the slab (3-3/4") be 1 inch lower then the building slab. Hope that explains it a little better. But my main question about your build out was - Why you didn't just turn all the 2x4's sideways instead of ripping them down? Thanks for you quick reply. I think its harder to explain in writing then talking !!! lol
@@robertfreeburn7573 For the 1" drop, rip a 2x4 down to 1x1 or whatever width you need and fasten that along the edge of your concrete form. And yes, the anchors will bust out the side of the edge of the concrete...I have a couple that did. That displaces the concrete to give you that shelf. As far as flat versus ripped for wall framing, we didn't think of it when we started in the smaller room, and getting spray foam up against the metal wasn't as important there due to the sun angle and less solar loading. Flat would have been less work (cutting) if we had started that way.
Did you have to hire an architect in order to know the weight loads for your walls? I’m being told by my metal building company that I have to hire architect to tell them the weight load if I want to build it out. Thank you. Please help me!😭😭😭
Sounds like you want to live in it as a home...this is more of a camp style so there's no engineering needed. For a barndo, you would need fully engineered plans here too.
What size L brackets did you use?
They are not very big....about 2" x 2". Standard size at Lowes. You could go longer for more strength but in some areas you will get interference with other fasteners and brackets.
Thank you so much for your fast response! I’m going to be doing the exact same thing as what you have done with framing. Been a struggle trying to figure out how to fasten the 2x4 to the metal framing since it is 14 gauge metal.
@@michaelz6661 It's not that hard to put in those self tapping screws. Get a good 6pt socket attachment and an impact cordless drill and they push right in. The hammering of the drill really helps.
Yes sir, thank you so much! And have you noticed any issue with turning the 2x4 with the wider side facing out? I keep getting told that it decreases the sturdiness of the 2x4’s when facing out (wider side facing you).
@@michaelz6661 For us, the 2x4s are just "nailers" to hold up OSB to hide the spray foam and provide an interior finish. The metal is providing all the structure to hold up the building. Since it's an East wall, we wanted some spray foam behind the board to stop thermal loading of that side of the shop. I don't think the 2x4s on the flat will bow out, but if that's a concern of yours, you can rip the 2x4s and put them on edge, or even leave them full size and have your wooden wall protrude past your 2 1/4 metal framing.
Gonna have to bring Bella a chew toy or rawhide bone if she's not going to swing a hammer.
She's also started to chase the brush hog wheel which scares me! Great farm dog, but likes to get in the way especially when you're doing low work on the floor or ground!! Thanks for watching. Brad&Deb
Why didn't y'all just turn the 2x4s sideways and do pocket holes instead of the brackets?
Anyone else feel a little tension between these 2
That's just how we roll as a couple!! 20 years together.....still going strong! Or were you talking about the pit bull?!!
You will regret attaching your wood sheeting directly to the metal framing. Hot/cold transfer is going to create many issues for you.
I had mine that way for over 5 years before I took it down. It had no problem