427hp Flat Tappet Cam Vortec SBC Power! 450 ft lbs (Dingle Ball 355)
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- Опубліковано 7 гру 2021
- Budget power!
The Dingle ball 355! Vortec Heads with a Hydraulic flat tappet cam!
This SBC was built with mostly used parts laying around the shop
11:1 compression Ran on 91 octane Pump gas
Fuel and Timing were not optimized as you find out in the video haha
2.02/1.6 Vortec Heads
Vortec intake
amzn.to/3XbgY2I
Distributor
amzn.to/4et6y4T
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I have an old engine on a stand. It's a 355 built for strip back in the early 80s. I only know it's out of a late 60s or early 70s dump truck. 4 bolt main. It has a 300/500 cam. Don't know true specs. The heads are not original. The car was a "83" Grand Prix. It didn't have 3rd gear when shifted. Free reved and spun bearing or something. Oil pressure was lost and engine was pulled and put on stand. All these years and I never pulled it apart. Soon to pull apart and investigate. I would love to hear it run again. It sounded very good and run very good back back then. To bring back my youth and get them goosebumps. Your channel is awesome.
I just finished a 355 for a customer that made 440hp/438tq with 1.94/1.50 valves and 220@.050 flat tappet. I'm not bragging at all just to clarify, it's just a good example of why bigger valves aren't necessary in the vortecs, they're so prone to cracking anyways I don't like to antagonize them. Nice engine sir, turned out nice for a budget build. 👍🏼
Yeah I agree. I pretty much always stick with the 1.94 intake valve.
Personally i think the best combo is a 2.00/1.6 but thats typically not needed.
I think this combo had more potential and honestly thought 435hp wouldn't be an issue but obviously didnt get a chance to dial this one in.
Sounds like your 355 dyno time went abit better! Haha
Cheers!
If you watch his flowbench test on adding the 1.6 exhaust it's a massive increase of flow, bench doesnt lie.
@@T0tenkampf I'm not disputing that, but I've seen enough cracked vortecs over the years, and they always crack up the deck off the exhaust port, so making that port bigger and thinner you're just asking for trouble if it ever gets warm.
@@cuttersperformance I'd like to try the 2.00/1.55 valves out of the 604 circle track crate engines, they're hollow stem and super light, intake valves weight 82 grams! But pretty expensive unfortunately.
@@dirtfan05 Speier has an 8mm ls valve "drop in kit" for 23° heads, not low budget, yet not terribly expensive either. Just getting the valve train weight down can help get more rpm with less wear longer life. So many possibilities for these castings.
Nice torque curve! 420 @ 3100 and still 350 at 6000...great street motor, very drivable and probably a bunch of fun!
I wonder... a 2.00"/1.56" valving on the vortec might get better numbers? I don't know if these heads can have throat opened up [to get the best of 2.02"/1.6" valves] without getting into bowl troubles or other problems.
@@flinch622 It`s been my experience that the GM 062 head will respond better to a 1.60 exhaust and leave the intake at 1.94. I don`t why but I`ve seen it on the dyno and on a flow bench. That was 20 yrs ago. I watched with a smile when Mr. Piss-Cutter came up with the same answer on his own a little while ago.
Most builders miss the value of the COMMENTS section. You take time to reply with some thought instead of just “Thanks for watching!” Reading your COMMENTS section is a great education. Your viewers add a lot of experience.
Thank you I appreciate that, I try to get to alot of the comments especially when they are good questions or comments. I have some good subscribers and viewers and I appreciate the comments and positive feedback
Got to love sbc engines ! Thank you!
Love this build! Exactly what I’m looking for. Great video
Isky 292 mega cams scream right up to 7k rpms with no problem!!! Capable of 500+ hp! Not bad for a hydraulic flat tappet cam!
I have this identical build, cam, intake, .30 over bore. On a 455 olds. And that cam profile is perfect for the street. Nice lope at rhe lights, instant power and it'll burnout at 50mph. Nice video
Love your channel, i like they way you build on a working mans budget and get great results!
Thanks man, thats whats im shooting for
I certainly appreciate your time!
Your a very talented man 👍
I appreciate the love! Thanks man
Very nice street rod build! Looking forward to the roller setup test.
Awesome work! Thanks for sharing. 😎👍
Pretty respectable power in my books. "Four and a quarter horse mouse motor that broke the dyno". I was a kid during the malaise era, we didnt have abundant cheap heads like this. Well done, the roller valvetrain should be serious.
Amen, the 202 camel back heads were plentiful, but paying to get them ported by a pro wasn't cheap. If you had a true 350 hp 350/355 street/strip sbc that ran on pump gas you had a powerful engine that commanded a level of respect.
@@b.c4066 True story.
@@b.c4066 Truth! By the late 80s even we had a hard time finding the 202 heads any more for our shop class rebuilds, of course, it didn't help that I grew up in a small town that was fairly remote. We'd probably have had better luck driving to a large city but that wasn't really a possibility during school hours.
Yeah, im on my 30's, bought 6.0 ls l96 truck engine+trans from wrecked 3500 work horse van, it only needs a cam and tune and maybe mill heads to raise cr a little and bam its a 500hp engine... That feels stupid even for me, i like this sooo much more, trying to think how to get 450hp out of my old'n'tired 250k miles 350vortec engine on a budget making most of work myself = true hotrodding in my books...
Ps. yeah yeah i have 2 turbos waiting for that 6.0ls to come to life... Blaah now that feels like cheating making horsepower 😄
No issues with flat tappet cam. 👍.
Many builders complain about them going bad.
I’m curious on your break in procedure.
That is one of the flattest torque curves Ive ever seen. Im am impressed!
Thank you! Once customs grinds are easily available again..she will be back!
Dam good power for a 355 !!! Great job. Get that roller in there now. Thanks
Those are solid numbers especially for a budget build. I bet with a roller setup it would hit 450hp. Liked thanks
Vortec heads for the win! Aftermarket heads have a place I get that, but they're bolt on easy. I'm all about worked over factory heads and these really filled the bill. Great video!
Something fun about messing with factory heads....a ton more work...but fun haha
I dont mind the work, I like the hot rodders mentality of paying for hp with sweat instead of throwing expensive parts at everything.
Especially when bumping compression to 12-13:1 with some aggressive hydraulic roller lobes would get you more torque, higher hp.. make for a cheap bracket engine. Easy cheap 10.5-11 seconds in the right 2800 pound chassis.
Man I've bought two sets and 3 out of 4 was cracked
That made awesome power. Nice work
Awesome brother thanks
Good little combo, I’m subscribed 👍🏻🇦🇺
I like the 0.050 duration numbers. Use a hyd roller cam with the same 236/244 on 108 LSA but with 0.575” lift or so and put the intake centerline at 106°. I’m thinking you’ll break 450 hp!
Holy torque curve you did an amazing job on those heads
On and off the flow bench many times haha
Thanks man!
Liked 4shore!! My son gave me a cam to try in my 4x4 build. Comp cam 12-412-8. I don't think it's gonna make crazy top end power, but I would sure like to see the power band of it in your build, and if the dyno could read at lower rpm's? Great that you got it to run on pumped gas too. Very inspiring. Thanks.
I just did my 355 for a 4900lb k10. 10:1 xr276hr and vortecs I ported and polished chambers on. Rpm airgap, proform main bodied 3310. I'm very happy with the little guy. Smokes 35's with 150% anti squat on the rear 4 link and 2 spares and fuel cell behind axle. Love your videos bro
Hell yeah! Great combo man
@@cuttersperformance Thanks man! I'd love to know what it makes : /
I just swapped in some Howards S/A 1.6 RR so its around 534? Int and 544? Ex.
@@Foryourinfo369
What gear
@@xmo552 4:10
I run a 355 with a Procharger, solid Isky cam, non roller, .507 lift. Sportsman rods, cast crank, forged TRW flat tops. #186 casting Hump heads, ported with 2.02 , .160 valves. Very old school, been running for years shifted at 7000rpm. It just keeps running better. A good 355 is priceless.
Thats badass man! Sweet set up
Awesome video, thanks for sharing all this with us. You've inspired me to build something like this. Maybe do 10.0:1 though.
This channel is 100% the reason I bought Vortec heads for a winter project, and now I know what to shop for for the eventual build on my 82 C10. Wicked! Any word on the vortec spring kits? I sent an email but never heard back. Would love to buy a set! Awesome channel!
Sorry man! Must have missed the email!
Thanks for checking out my videos!
82 c10 🤘
Currently sold out of the spring kits unfortunately, no eta as of right now
Amazing man...427 hp is gy normus amount of power...Thanks so much for doing this ! Giant killers still exist..................................
Thanks man!
That power curve would be sweet for a street car, or a boat. Put that in a 21’ or 22’ bow rider with captains call exhaust it would scoot along pretty good if propped correctly.
Good flowing head like LT4 factory with better exhaust that cam intake good match. You can run that cam with Crane Lunati or Rhoads liftters that bleed down hyraulic psi at idle build up to normal at higher rpms pulls better vacume at idle. Good build.
yeah the dinglebalL! Put a Mike Jones Camshaft Designs hydraulic roller high lift cam and lifters in it, 276hr or 282hr.
Yes, by all means, bring it back with a roller cam! Great project, I enjoyed it.
Nice engine, I really like your videos. Very informative
I appreciate that!
Great choice on LSA
Next upgrade has to be a roller cam instead of a flat tappet but hot damn I sure wouldn't complain about having this motor in my truck, I'm pretty sure that summit makes roller truck cams for 350's as well
An engine where the rings never seated from the prior rebuild is the ideal situation for a dingle ball rebuild. I don't think I'd probably try it on a 250,000 mile 350.
Bummer about the dyno guy being so conservative, maybe it'll do better next time.
On a side note, we had a FE 390 with this scenario when I was in shop in high school (yes back when we actually rebuilt motors in school), rings never seated on a fresh rebuild. Dude took it on a road trip about 600 miles away and burned 8 quarts in 600 miles. We built him another motor and sold off the one that never seated, the people that bought it for minimal $$$ were pretty thrilled at the brand new condition of everything. They had it re-honed, used same pistons and new rings and never had any issues.
Motor in my truck right now is similar in a way. I’ve commented before but it’s a 408 small block. Extreme budget build. Wore out honed bores etc. eagle cast crank/stock 5.7(350) rods and hyper flattop pistons. Cam is a little Howard’s grind it’s a small base circle 231/235@.050 ground on a 108 lobe separation. Lift is 480/488. It has a full roller eBay rocker std 1.5 ratio. Airgap intake 850DP carburetor. There stock 906 vortecs drilled for the 400 actually Mexican castings. They have ls6 behive springs/comp787 retainers and I used those incognito type screw in studs like you used. I blended the Throats/bowls the best I could with a dremel and polished out the exaust runners what I could. I figured it should make about the same power as that one. I’m really thinking of building me another 350/355/357 combination simply because I’m budget oriented and I have a good 1182 forged 350 crank and a pair of Hbeam rods that’s been setting a few years. All I could need is a forged piston flattop though. I have a good virgin bore 1970 300horse 3970014 casting 350 block with no core shift and the good nodular 2482 main caps I planned to use maybe. Not sure what head I wanna use yet though. Maybe try to really port on the vortecs well or a Chinese eBay aluminum head purchased bare and put budget but decent parts in them. I plan to run a solid flattappet cam 500-550 lift or so. What’s your thoughts??
Sweet budget combo man! 👌
Youll get more overall flow with those cheap 195cc aluminum heads. We will see what the youtube 355 makes with them and a decent hydraulic roller cam
Cheers!
Pat
Nice I have a similar build myself my 400 bored 40 over value 6 inch rods don't remember what my cam specs are but with the 1.6 roller rockers I got about 500 Lyft have it in my Chevy with 7 inch lift on 33s getting 15 MPG Highway it would do better with the 750 demon carburetor I had to miss it but Holley double Pumper does alright
You can go about 10 pointers bigger with the cam to get a 430/430 combo. Similar to the zz430 gm fast burn.
Great dyno breaker engine Pat! I like it.
You could put the Chevy performance spo 350/357 cam in with scorpion 1.6 rockers then run it on propane! It’s on a 108 too.
On propane!? Haha that would be cool
That’s a sweet little engine for sure. Good numbers. I’d like to do some head work to my 906’s They have stock size valves. All I did was clean them up lap the valves and install new seals. I’m running blue Ls6 springs. My cam is a Comp Xe274h. The engine is a 350. I’d like to do the 1.6” exhaust valve upgrade and get my intake to at least 250cfm @ .500
I enjoy you channel and love seeing budget builds make good power. Looking forward to seeing more of this engine.
Nice street combo you have! Thanks for the support!
@@cuttersperformance thank you and you’re welcome.
@@cuttersperformance I believe I have an intake gasket related vacuum leak so I’ll be removing it to replace the gaskets. I’m going to go ahead and remove the heads too and unshroud the valves and add screw in studs. Do you think the Ls6 springs will be sufficient for 1.6 roller rockers? The cam is a comp cams xe274h 230/236 @ .50 .490/.490 110 lsa the rockers I’m looking at are prw stainless 1.6 full rollers. I currently have comp 1.52 magnum roller tip rockers. I believe my installed height is 1.74”
just discovered your page, like it a lot, great videos
Thank you! I appreciate that
loved your other video explaining proper quench. I noticed those guidelines were around flat top pistons. On this dingle ball build with the small dome pistons, did you alter your approach for the quench value since these are technically dome pistons?
Good question! The quench part of the piston remains same as the dome is not part of the quench pad, so the same specs apply.
With dome pistons you have to check dome to head clearance inside the actual combustion chamber, this is just for physical clearance and nothing to do with quench
In this video around the 3:40 mark you'll see what I'm talking about
Loved your build, reminded me of 355 I had as a 19yr old apprentice back in 1984, had 12.5:1 TRW forged, Crane 292 solid flat tappet ( big in the day) 1.7;1 Crane rollers with Crane stud girdle, Crane triple ( flat inner) springs, 461 heads ported by living legend " Luigi", victor jnr and X rods, on super ( leaded fuel) now I constantly ran this to 8500 rpm until it wore out the valve guides, I then sold car to an apprentice of mine years and years later who rebuilt it still using original X rods, I was told so many times you can't run that hard on production rods ( these were polished shot peened etc etc as was std in the day) but I had no other budget choice and being young and dumb and full of cum I did it anyway it went hard and sounded great and was never beat, lucky ? , maybe, but I wasn't the only one who couldn't afford aftermarket rods back then that did it, probably wouldn't risk it these days as H beam rods so affordable now and forged pistons so much lighter than old TRW,s 12,5:1,s, not to mention factory steel cranks not as tough as we once thought,
Love it, very bad ass!
Im not worried about the rods, i think there will hold up just fine. Its going to be revved to 6500+ next dyno session even if i had to take it to another dyno
Full Send!
Love your content, wish more guys like you would share more with the younger ones wanting to learn, oh but that this medium was around when I was young, maybe not so many hard lessons and blow ups if guys had shared like you do, I'm too old now but still enjoy stuff like this
@@Hitman-ds1ei I really appreciate that man! Thank you
Im a mechanic, hot rodder and enjoy making videos to help guys out. Not everyone has a huge budget for a old school hot rod engine and thats why i do this.
Add a 1” spacer under the carb, do 1.6 rockers advance the cam 4 degrees or if you can only 2 bet it hits 470ftlbs and 450 hp with 36-37 degrees of timing if you do the windage tray too
I like the comp cams xr300hr it works really good on a 355 I have a 357 I'm getting ready to put one in with pro Maxx 215 As cast heads hoping to make 500 hp
Lowend torque is awesome on this engine 👍👍
Want to see more subscribed
More budget builds in progress! Thanks for the sub
YOU BET 🤘🤘
SBC all the way
I bought a 350 that had professionally ported and polished vortec heads with a Comp 294S cam 294/294 525/525.cam While it runs low 12's in my 64 Nova, I questioned the cam choice because I was always under the impression that Vortec Heads generally like split duration cams. Lots of guys run Vortec heads with the Comp XE cams and have good results.
Split duration cams are usually favorable on stock vortec heads as the intake to exhaust flow ratio isnt great. If decent exhaust porting is done especially with a 1.6 exhaust valve then the split duration isn't as important and a single pattern can be used
As always an excellent education for vortec diehards! Thankyou! Time for a 305 build!! 👌
Great video
400-400 @5300 rpm, thats pretty stout. great build!
I'd like to see this same engine tested with a solid flat tappet with similar specs before you move on to a hydraulic roller.
I bet the solid flat tappet will get you another 25-50 HP and maybe another 25 ft lbs of torque.
Great budget street combo as it stands now though. 👍
That would be a sweet test too! And I think your about right in your estimate
Mines the same set up , I'm running a lunati voodoo 468/489 runs very strong
Nice numbers
For a hyd roller, and 6000 rpm power peak, I would look at these in order from 1st to 4th choice.
Howard's 110525-10
Lunati 501A5 possibly with 1.6 rockers
Crane 119571 possibly with 1.6 rockers
Comp XR282HR with 1.6 rockers
If power peak past 6000 is ok, then the Crane with 1.6 rockers would bump to the top, followed by the Lunati with 1.6, then the Howards, then the Comp with 1.6.
A hyd roller cam will have about 15 degrees less duration at .050" compared to a hyd flat tapper, to give comparable powerband.
Big step up in cost, though, especially if you have to buy retrofit lifters for a non roller block.
That's pretty impressive for a flat tapped cam.
Built same setup 880 block stock bottom end .015 tho head gaskets milled the heads .030 tho stock valves ls6 springs com 787 retainers jegs intake summit circle track cam 253/253@.050 .500/.500 hardened pushrods 1-5/8th long tubes 3 inch exhaust with 2.5 tailpipes in my 79 monte it'll rev to 7300 tr6060 trans 4.10 gears.
Got your 500 likes. Get the roller in there !! Voodoo
Man that happened faster than i thought it would 😂
Yes sir... when is the Voodoo roller coming???
Had really good results with Howards cams lately. The right cam for your motor looks like the Howards 110265-10 or 110265-12(233/241 dur @.050 and .530/.545 lift) depending on where you want the lobe centers. If you feel like pushing those rods over 6K rpm, then I'd go with the 111815-10(237/245 dur @.050 and .560 lift on both sides..
Good cam suggestions!
Agreed!
I've used both the single pattern version (180635-10) and the dual pattern (180815-12) for my OE Roller 357. Smooth profiles, lots of lift with a 1.5 Rocker, Good duration without the lobes being lazy. (They remind me of Comp QXX lobes)
If you've got the P2V, the 111815 on the 110 LSA (or tighter!) would really let that 355 surpass your goal.
Gonna be revving it out though.
Pat,
Are the rods really that "dangerous" at RPM? Especially with the short dyno pulls?
Doesn't the Gen 2 LT1 use a similar rod? And people took those to 7k without grenading.
I know they use a much lighter factory piston, though.
@@cuttersperformance Just curious, where are you located? I am in the process of building a 355 and had a few questions
I also have the big daddy rattler with the 530/545 lift its a torque monster I can't keep it hooked in 1st at all and 2nd about 50 mph it'll finally grab traction
@@cuttersperformance I second the Howards 110265-10. I have one in my DZ 302 and can't wait to hit the dyno. Should pull very hard in the mid to upper range in your 355.
Great video! Gives me hope with my little 305 with Vortecs. Surprised by that torque for sure, was not expecting that..
Everybody dogs the 305s so much that I would like to see a nice 305 build. Everybody says scrap them lol.
Agree, and is part of the reason why I'll be keeping the 305. Hope to have it ready one of these days in the near future.
Which Vortecs , the 305 or 350 heads ?
I'm kind of jumping all over the place with ideas if I'm honest. I was at first just going to use the 081 castings i have on them now, and do a budget port job. Clean up the castings, port match, screw in studs, mill a little off the top, and call it a day. Maybe make 300hp plus, but then decided I wanted to see how far i could take the little 305. I then thought about Vortec 059/520 305 castings and doing all the things to them. Maybe get some ideas from David Visard as well in all this. Then I thought about the better chamber design of the 062/906 vortec 350 heads.. Maybe Dart Vortec castings... I'm a little on the fence with all of it still, but i want to prove this little Mouse motor has it in her.
@@plumcrazy588 305's are actually thermodynamically more efficient than its bigger bore brothers, i'm working on a low budget stroker version right now , i've got some 187 swirl ports that are flowing in the same ballpark as 906 casting. 305's hav waaay more potential than people give them credit for, people are to quick to judge a motor that come from the factory with the wimpiest cam ever. LOL
Very nice 👌 Earned my like and sub 💯
I appreciate that!
I would almost bet you'd get your target 435 HP with this engine exactly as it is by only changing the rockers to 1.7 ratios.
The other option would be some basic port work on the exhaust side.
Doing both might have you knocking on the door of 450 HP.
However, the broad torque curve on this engine is very nice and would make it a blast to drive in a lighter weight street rod or Chevy Nova. Maybe get the can (or something similar) done on a 110 or 112 LSA for better vacuum?
I'd also give a look to a Clay Smith roller. Maybe a custom grind.
Very respectful.. 💪🏼.. put 93 octane & you'd hit your 435hp goal.. that dip you incountered at 4500rpm is valve spring harmonics, try 2 things, alittle more spring but mostly shoot for .050 .060 coil bind, if you have .080 or more that tends to happen.. flow #s suggest. .750 lift.. however anything above .650 lift would be great. More duration the better👍🏼.. rock on!!
That combo with the same cam in a 383 or 406 would probably make a ton of torque and probably be able to run power brakes!! Just focusing on Torque!! RJ
I knew you could do it I built four of them in 2003 sore around 1600 to 1800 depending on which bottom you use either hydraulic flat or hydraulic roller.. having access to a machine shop is nice isn't it
Woo hoo
This is a close comparison to the engine I have in my c10. Can’t wait to fire it.
Nice
I hope my build is in that ball park. like that torque on 355. got small alum heads that flow little more than those. The cam is close running large comp 4x4 cam with 1.6 rockers should put lift in 520s, 530s I think.
I went solid ft and wish I went roller. Interesting to see what cam it ends up with
Have you considered using the same roller cam that was in the 447HP David Vizard spec'd Vortec 350? He talked about it in the back of his book and you can google the Sledgehammer build. It was a 280 roller on a 108 LSA. (It was custom specc'd, but he did have a custom cam line with Lunati. The closest one would be part number DV278-08HRH specced for a roller block with the right cam snout for a roller block which you'd have to mention. Specs are 227 at 0.050 and 0.565 inch lift with 1.6's on 108 LSA. It's a single pattern cam and he seems to always recommend 1.6's on 350's. He always changes the LSA depending on the cubes, but that would be the right one for a 350. You might even get more vacuum.)
Ive been waiting to get a similar cam made but unfortunately there is a huge back log on custom roller cams as there are no cores available. But dont worry as they come available the dingle ball will be back!
Using almost this same combo for my 86 monte ss. Ill be running the 268h cam though, came here to figure out what rockers i needed to use since this is my first time using vortecs and this video helped so much!
If your using stock vortecs without guide plates then make sure you use a self aligning rocker arm. Something like a 1417-16 from comp cams
@PISS-CUTTER Performance I may get PRW since they're about 50 bucks cheaper, the self aligners will work with the stock style pushrods correct? I have a new box of comp high energy steel PRs sitting on the shelf.
@TheDuck8185 the prws work great to and yeah they work with regular push rods
@PISS-CUTTER Performance one more question. If using a flat tappet cam with the SA rockers do I need a cam button?
@piss-cutterperformance finally got it fired up the other day and not even 5 minutes into break in the lifter in the very back drivers side got chewed up. Did everything by the book but thinking all the Comp horror stories are true 😢
solid 327-365 cam 255@50 4:85 lift then add some higher ratio roller rocker 1.75 advance cam to intake centerline 108
I’ve got the same motor with sawtooth heads going into my 49 Chevy and I’m about to buy a cam kit lol
I would like to see you install Melling's #22450 cam which is a Chevy Z/28 Optional Off-road 2nd Design solid lifter cam. Lift is .341" (intake) and .357" (exh.), which is .511"/.525" at the valve with 1.5 rocker ratio and adjusted to.022"/.024" clearance and a 106/116 centerline and 112 spread at 0.050". Top off the lobes with Melling's JB992 liftres. rpm is about 7,200. You might want to give the rotating parts more thought if you use this.. Could be interesting. Or use their #22400 cam which is the 1st design.
My build...
.30 over 638 block 4 bolt, cast crank, stock rods, 4 relief dish speed pro pistons, melling HV oil pump. 062 heads machined for screw in studs. 63cc chambers. PAC beehives, comp cams ultra pro magnum stainless 1.6 rockers. Comp cams pushrods. Custom ground roller cam 224/228@.50 .544 lift on a 110 sep angle. Edelbrock air gap. Msd pro billet distributor. 92 camaro accy drive. Sniper efi. Sanderson cc17 headers. 2.5" exhaust to 40 series mufflers. Dunno the power but I'm hoping for 400. I've got it figured right around 9.8:1 compression. So pump will be friendly.
Very nice combo man! 👌
I would like to see s Q-Jet tested sometime.
That kind of horsepower would work for my ride any day!
Yeah you're right it starts to shine at about 6200
This kind of stuff from you makes me rrreeaally want to dig into my '98 burbans l31 vortec... But dayymm no time and empty pockets is effectively keeping me out of it until many years to come 😄 but hey, what you would think on making this combo 13:1 cr for e85, how would vortec heads keep up or would they crack even sooner 🤪
That would be fun to try!
I have a 327 out of a 68 Camaro with 22k miles on it I’m pondering doing this setup to.
SALUDOS DSDE VENEZUELA GRACIAS POR ESOS DATOS TECNICO Y PROBADOS POR USTEDES Y PARTE UTILISADAS O PIEZAS
Great video as usual.
Do you have any part numbers on the spring "kit" and incognito rocker studs please?!
I'm surprised at the low vacuum. I had a .060 283 with the 706 heads
XE268H Cam, china intake. And was showing 13-14" of vacuum.
Currently sold out of the spring kit.
The rocker studs are RM-348-16
I was expecting around 10 inches with this cam on a 355 on a 108 lsa
Dingle ball hones conform to all of the warpages in the cylinders. Use a fixed stone hone 👍🏻
I've had good luck with ball hones. But I really only use them for a deglaze on a fairly good cylinder wall. The last one I did had less than 4% leak down with moly rings
To take advantage of that extra head flow left on the table I think you'll need a solid roller cam! Howards makes street solid roller lifters, search those out I think you'll like them.
Of coarse a solid roller cam will want more RPM so it would probably be a good idea to upgrade the rods if you go this route. IMO changing the cam to a hydraulic roller you will be lucky to get an extra 50 HP out of it, that's an expensive 50 HP!
On the other hand if you went to a solid roller cam you can probably get another 100 HP out of it for close to the same price minus the rod upgrade you should of done from the beginning. Let me know if you're going to swap the rods and I'll send some cam picks for it. 👍
I totally agree but i think i want to stick to hydraulic on this one, not sure about the rods yet. I think im just going to leave them and send it!
@@cuttersperformance
That's to bad because if you use the Wallace Racing calculator that Estimates RPM That Peak Horsepower Will Occur if you utilize all of the CFM available it says The RPM that Peak HP will occur is 6,975.93 rpm with your 259 CFM peak.
So basically a cam that can rev to 7,500 RPM would be perfect for what your heads will support with 355 cid. Of coarse you would want better rods and a forged crank to spin at 7,500 RPM. Setup this way with a solid roller cam I have used in a 383 with 1.6:1 rockers and heads that had the flow right at 280 CFM max makes about 580 HP! A 355 combo with your flow I would guess about 530 HP with the same solid roller cam.
Stock rods with ARP bolts should be ok to 6,000 RPM if you're going to stick with the hydraulic roller cam. Trying trading lift for duration and a set of 1.7:1 rockers could help too. Rule of thumb for every .1:1 increase in rocker ratio increases the duration @ .050" by 2 degrees, so switching to 1.7:1 would net an extra 4 degrees.
Its to bad you didn't profile the beams, shot peen and weight match the rods old school, they would of been good for another 500 RPM. You could probably make a whole video on showing how to do that old school rod prepping routine if you wanted to?
So it looks like you got your over 500 likes, try to keep the duration @ .050" below 235 to try to keep the RPM in check but make sure you have the lift past where the peak flow is so you hit that peak twice, once on the way up and then on the way down to make up for less duration. .600" lift should be just right.
Before roller cam, throw 1.6 rockers on intake only , ex only then both, then throw roller in it
I ran stock rods to 7200 in the light hunderds of passes left at 5200 shift at 6400 7200 at 150 mph.never broke one it did loss a rist pin into the cyclinder once, press pin.
Nice, looks like a tire shredder. Would look great in my 91 Silverado. lol
Cool truck! 🤘
👍
Great work on this build😊! I wonder how did actually get those vortecs flow this great, any insights on the porting work? I've got a stock pair of 062's for my project. Could I make them flow this good?
Also any technical points on the honing it self, what would be a good size hone for the small block and where to buy them?
Well the heads were on and off the flow bench quite a few times to achieve that flow. These are factory castings so they are quite thin in spots so you need to be careful. I will probably do a video on how to get the exhaust to flow like that with a 1.6 exhaust valve but im worried to show the intake side. I dont want guys busting through on their heads trying to replicate my porting.
Im not very experienced with the ball hones as ive only used regular 3 stone hones in the past, and obviously most of the engines i build have the final hone at the machine shop.
I used a brush research ball hone 4 1/8 and used diesel fuel as a lubricant. Took abit of practice to get the right cross hatch but i was fairly happy with the results. I was just trying to take the glaze off
Rings sealed up good! 👍
@@cuttersperformance Thank you so much for the reply Pat! Looking anxiety forwards for the exhaust porting :) ! By the way, does stock bore, after honing call for a set of +0,005" piston rings or will the stock do it?
@@mikkokuorttinen3113 the ball hone doesnt really remove material so you can use std rings. But depending on your bore wear or bore size, file fit rings are always a good option
How about a Comp XR288HR or similar? Duration numbers are close to the flat tappet cam you've got in there, but with more aggressive lobe geometry for the roller lifters.
Thats what i was thinking aswell 🤔
I always loved the Ingle EP-22 in my 327 4 speed with 3:73 gears in 65 chevy stepside 461 heads 12:1 compression dont know the hp
You need to find a new dyno shop! Every dyno owner I ever met, checked there driveshaft every single engine! There driveshafts were always built by heavy duty driveline shops, using the strongest u joints available! If there ever was any movement in the shafts, we changed the joints or shaft went back to shop for repair! Which was rare! Also if they were a extremely busy shop, they had spare everything on hand! I’ve rarely had any dyno issues, We had a rotor in one of the shops dynos finally give up after 1000s of pulls & we were on our last backup pull w a street 1300hp blown Hemi! He had the parts there to repair it! Also There is also absolutely nothing wrong with a dingle ball hone! They are used on race engines all over the world! From cast iron blocks to 100000$+ 965 cubic inch nitrous engines! Never mind top fuel cars! I’ve never seen anything ball honed not seal up! Even old worn out farm engines that I’ve seen honed when I was a young kid! Anyone that says there no good are not very smart & probably shouldn’t be inside a engine anyway 🙄🙄🙄🙄! Nice Job! With that cam, it should have been able to run 7000 pretty easily, especially if the springs were right & it didn’t have retarded heavy rocker arms on it! I’ve built hundreds of 355/358s for circle track racing! Those are non vortech headed, no porting 😏 solid lift .550 rule, pistons cannot stick out of deck, 11 to 1 comp max, 2 barrel engines that run constantly from 4500 to 7500, with a cam that’s slightly bigger than what you have! They make well over 400 ftlbs & around the same power you made! Brokedick racers even use the Scat cranks & rods, the cheap ones & they live at least a couple of seasons W/O issues! The good Crower rotating assembly’s, last forever it seems 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸!
Its actually kinda funny that u joint was just replaced. The dingle ball was the 2nd engine on the new u-joint. The guys that run the dyno are great guys, in there 70s and are drag racers/machinists themselves.
Might be a faulty part? Who knows. I'll tell you one thing, it scared the crap out of me when it let go haha
Im not very experienced with the ball hones but i would for sure use one again. I started with straight bores that just needed to be deglazed. Im very happy on how the rings sealed up
Thanks for checking out my video!
Cheers!
Lunati Voodoo Solid Roller Part Number 40120733 Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 249/255; Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .585/.600 (1.5 rocker); LSA/ICL: 110/106; Valve Lash (Int/Exh): 016/016; RPM Range: 2800-7200, it will pick up about 30 HP
When you find the right cam , the first words from your mouth will be "WOW , THATS BIG "
Very cool! What did you have to do to those Vortecs to get that amount of lift?
So these were modified slightly when took them off my truck. The previous owner put a cam in and had the guides cut down and heavier springs installed.
You can easily run this can without cutting the guides and just adding beehive springs, 787 retainers and +.050 offset keepers.
I will probably go to a 918 beehive spring when i go roller cam and set these up for .600 lift
Cheers!
Go with the summit flat tappet 244/254 duration 508/533 lift 114 lsa sum-k1108 or hyd roller 525/520 lift 112 lsa 218/227 duration summit sum-8802
550 lift single pattern, 280 duration on intake with 1.6 rockers 108 LSA
I’ve broke 500hp on 030 and 040 over 3.480 GM crank build, GM crank, GM rods with good studs, and some cheap hyper flat tops, cheap speedmaster 200cc runner heads 2.02’s 1.60’s obviously, 64cc chamber with the 2vr flat tops, so about 10.8:1 with the cheapest aluminum heads you can get no port work just blended and polished short turn and the chamber opened up the outside edges of the valves to help deshroud, but a fat nasty mechanical/solid flat tappet from lunati .560 - .578 / .255 - .258 @ .050 108 sep before the 1.6 rockers so almost .600 lift, big single plane hurricane from speedmaster as well.
I’ve done a lot of different 3.480 stroke combinations all the way from cheap stock rotating assembly stuff to blowing a wad on internal balanced crank with overkill rods and dome pistons up to 13.5:1, nowadays if I build a 350 355 357 360 I will pretty much always just reuse gm crank and rods and a cheap set of hypereutectic flat top or dish, pretty much cheap everything but just overcam the piss out of it to make it sound nasty. If the goal is to go fast I just won’t build a 350 anymore, if I either don’t have a crank with it or the crank is not fixable and I have to purchase a crankshaft, I always just go with a 3.750 stroke as the price difference is almost non existent, I’ve built many 383’s with a 9,000 cast crank from eagle or scat, use a good set of early 5.7 rods, and some Keith black claimer hypereutectic’s, a good flat tappet cam and speedmaster or RPC heads. Make 550+ no problem and under 5,800 rpm. Anything hotter and I’ll step up to a mid grade competition I beam.
Before this insane parts boom happened in the last 5 years or so,
I used to be able to get a 383 done machine and parts cost all under $3,800 sometimes as cheap as $3,000 depending on cylinder heads, cam, and depending on what the block needs done. Anytime I can get away with just honing a block and having a good deck and main sizing etc I was able to get a 383 around 500 horse done for right at $3k
I would like to see it run with a se of dart 200cc/64cc heads on it as this is a combo i am currently interested in as it has the pop up pistons in it
I would like to see a powerpack 327 60 over AKA 336 with vortec heads on it or a cheap set of Aluminum nock offs like i have made by Ateam Performance, 205 intake runner with 202intake 160 exh and 64cc chambers, thats what i am building with a Performer RPM 750cfm Carb, Intake, Cam, lifters and valve springs Flat tappet with 1.6 roller rockers! im shooting for around 400HP!