my quad uses a lawn mower trans that works exacly like this and is built far, far less strong... i bet this will handle a solid 5x the power and way more in a low speed application.. this being said, that reverse gear will blow it up the way its built it needs a bushing on the input shaft and a much deeper ratio for reverse.. looks to me like reverse is gears somewhere near 2nd gear which again is fine for a low speed machine or even his lathe???
Dude, the projects on your channel are so superior to RBG and C&C. You're up there with GHP in terms of your builds and engineering skills. You're Dad must be really proud of you. Keep up the good work.
For the welding issue, try next time to heat up the plate with a burner torch. Heat it up to 300 degrees Celsius and start welding. I bet you’ll succeed
@@forkjob Would still require preheating the plate. The reason is, aluminum is a very good conductor, and the heat used to melt it is rapidly conducted away from the weld, in effect, cooling the weld. By preheating, the welder doesn't have to provide as much heat for the weld and it is not wicked away as fast.
I don’t mind ads if it means the creator is putting revenue back into the channel. I just don’t like when they just stick with the UA-cam default locations and don’t move the ads to match natural breaks in the video. Look at Andrew Camarata. He never had ads but when he started it gave us more videos because he was buying lots of new equipment or toys that usually needed repairs for “no reason”.
I bought a small bottle of helium to weld with my DC tig but never used it. Now I have the prime weld 225 LOL. still hard to weld. LOL Maybe preheat is the secret.
Son, I admire your desire to figure stuff out on your own, and you're damned good at it But if you'd have asked, I'd have said to simply make a pair of offset bushings for the bearings. Easily done on your lathe and mill in, oh, a few hours... Don't be shy to ask! Write me; I'd be more than happy to brainstorm with you when you're stuck.
Here is an example of someone saying they have a better way to solve a problem. when he had solved the problem just fine. after all I don't see you building gearboxes on youtube.
@@harryrenner4016 OUCH! Well I would have done just that. I build gearboxes for a living ( retired now ) and got paid pretty good for it. Math errors happen and sometimes you have to scratch your head and fix it. This lad did the best he could with the experience and tools at his disposal. I would have moved my hole over to the dimension I needed and simply bored the hole out round and made a sleeve. Weld the sleeve in and you are done. That said it's what I would do on a home project like this. If it was at work I would be staying over on my own time making new plates to fix my f***up. Lighten up on people trying to give feed back. It takes a lot of skill to get a set of gears to mesh properly and with the equipment he has the deck was stacked against him. But he persevered and fixed the problem and I'm proud of him for that. There are so many ways that the lifespan of that unit was limited but we shall not go there. The fact that he got on UA-cam and fixed it speaks volumes. Build a gear box yourself. Record your progress and overcome the shortcomings of his design. Let us know how you do with that. Cheers! Terry from South Carolina
Finish the gearbox, put your UA-cam name on the side, and donate it to a local high school CAD class or something. They will get a kick out of it and learn something.
How anyone could dislike your content is beyond me. This is essentially a gearhead's "try not to be satisfied challenge" series, but it's most of your videos. Thank you!
Hear me out on this one. Reduce the shafts' diameter to a common size, install oil impregnated brass bushings of the original shaft OD and the new shaft's ID in the contact areas. You'd only have to cut them to length and press them in (I think the material is called Oilite, or something similar), seal it up and fill with oil, and you have a transmission and reverse for your lathe.
I usually reserve my comments, mostly because comments are such a good way of showing my ignorance, but a couple details about this project caught my eye and compelled me to open my pie hole. First, it was surprising and refreshing to see something as simple as a tap being used correctly. It has been about two of your lifetimes since Dad showed me basic tap technique, Seems like yesterday.....I want to add that you may be surprised by how long that transmission lasts, depending on application. It/s not suitable for high speed or gear banging, but it should be fine for something like a tractor or similar.....The basic idea is not dissimilar to the two speed chain drive that has been running in my old Mountaineer. for 60 years. It is a trail bike similar to the Tote Gote and the similar large mini bike trail/packing typpes from the 50's and early 60s. Totally open to weather and dust, but a bit of oil daily and it is trouble free. Like a tractor, you stop to shift, Just a granny and a high, but the belt type torque converter does the rest....Cheers, keep up the interesting projects.
We have in our family a 1913 Morgan 3 wheeler that is a 2 speed drive using sliding dogs like you arw using. From the V -Twin 998cc engine via a leather cone clutch and propshaft to the rear. I admire your thought and work that has gone into this. Cheers from Durban, South Africa.
iF YOU WANT TO STOP THE NOISE AND RINGING IN THE GEAR BOX YOU NEED TO USE HELICAL GEARS. Helical gears operate more smoothly and quietly compared to spur gears due to the way the teeth interact. The teeth on a helical gear cut at an angle to the face of the gear. When two of the teeth start to engage, the contact is gradual--starting at one end of the tooth and maintaining contact as the gear rotates into full engagement.
So much of any motor is metal on metal and you’ve got heftier parts there than most machines, I say maker work, oil bath and you’ll be set, it won’t last 300,000mi but what cart would?
I can't be the only one watching this here and thinking "Underdrive, one to one, overdrive, and reverse could make this quite useful as a quick change lathe spindle gearbox" can I? It would be significantly quicker than moving belts on pulleys to change gearing. He'd probably want to swap the two smallest sprockets to ones with a couple less teeth to get a wider speed range, but apart from that it looks almost made for the job. I could see it being quite a useful feature on his lathe project, and for the diameters Chris usually turns it looks like it would probably be up to the task. Worst case he'd need to open up the bores of the pulleys to press some plain brass bushings into them.
Nice solve. Someone else probably mentioned this, but another option is to bore the hole oversized then press in a bushing. Now you've got new material to move your hole.
Every time I see an engineering sample of yours I just sit back in awe. I'm absolutely sure I could figure out the same problem and come up with the same solution but it probably wouldve taken me much longer to make something so stupidly simple.
the pre ww2 frazer nash cars(from the UK) used the same system with chains and a gear train in a slightly different layout and were powered by anything up to a dual supercharged gough 4cyl engine. but most had 4 forward and reverse setup ( the frazer nash owners club is called "the chain gang" because of the use of the chain drive) and the cars were very successfully used in both race and rally events. side note: the frazer nash car company is the only car company in the world that can state that (with the oldest ones now over 100 years old ) EVERY single car built is still surviving today and most are still raced and rallied. they have special frazer nash only races at historic racing events in the UK for them.
USE IT! You got nothing to lose. Seal and fill it with just enough gear oil that the gears and sprockets are down far enough to sling the oil. Nice job!
I'll say you are one amazing guy/engineer! You create products to market and sell. I am in awe! I'm surprised that no one never took a transmission from a Harley Davidson and machined fit it to a go cart engine! No reverse but, it would go.
Nice Job. An easier method to increase dedendum: Saw cut plates & weld. Clever use of couplings without elastomer spider. Consider an electric go cart without transmission.
2 things I see in the future for Chris. A live center for the lathe. Reason is obvious. A self made press using a porta pack hydraulic ram. So much better than using a hammer to install or remove bearings or bushings.
For the lack of amps welding, if its not on its own circuit it needs to be, that will fix most of your issues. If you're still having issues, use a heat gun on the back side while you're welding, up the gas pressure, and slow down your welds and use smaller rod. Aluminum demands you take your time and not rush. I used to have to weld pressurized aluminum pipe in the field and it was always a patience game with how well the beads and fillets lay and being able to hold the pressure.
This is really interesting. I like seeing your gear box videos. I don't know a hole lot about transmissions so seeing someone build a small one is really helpful
I didn't real all of the comments do I apologize if this is redundant, but if one were so inclined, a motorcycle transmission could pretty easily be modified by one with your skills, tools, and determination. It wouldn't be hard to either just pull the shafts and build a box for them or in a less refined more time oriented course of action, plenty of others have disassembled the case, cut off the unneeded bits, and attached block off plates to seal the unit back up. Some use mills to cut the case, others use bandsaws and still other much more patient gluttons for punishment (Alan Millyard for instance) have built some amazing builds starting with a hacksaw. If it's less about the doing and more about the final result there's services like chop-cut-send that are surprisingly reasonably priced (much less than I expected) for custom cut products. SuperfastMatt uses them frequently and mentioned what one order cost and while still not what I would consider "cheap" it definitely was much less than I expected and certainly what I would consider reasonable for the parts he got.
Agree. TOT collaboration, would be hugely beneficial for him. TOT has a lot to offer in the machinist tips and tricks department. There are several other engineers on the tube that could help too. A mass production 2 speed with reverse would be awesome for us custom builders. Would be nice to have one that can handle 20-30hp that doesn't cost an arm and a leg.
Kiến thức chế đồ của bạn rất tốt. Phòng dụng cụ khá đầy đủ thiết bị. Tôi đã xem những video của bạn, tôi rất thích điều đó. Cảm ơn bạn. Chúc bạn thành công hơn nữa
I would round the corners on those dogs, so it will give it a slight taper and help them to shift a little easier. If you bathed that in oil, it would last just fine, although its very heavy.... What I would do if i was you, is buy a cheap motorcycle engine that has a blown motor, and you could steal the trans gears out of that and put it into your own little case, that would be a good project. You could even use the engine itself as the case and just take the cylinder off and strip it down.
The two speed go cart is what brought me here originally, and this peaked my interest with part 1 so long ago. I've stayed for all of the other great content, but to see this build finally come back and be completed just made me way happier than I thought it would. I remember how many ways I thought it might go together, and how long I held out hope that I might see what you actually had planned. lol Thank you for finishing this, and for all of the hard work you've put into this channel over the years. :)
I would love to see a version 2, although if you do a version 2 I would suggest normal open bearings with oil seals on the outside if it is a oil bath system. There's less maintenance than those sealed bearings.
As a Machinist who worked for 26 years in a machine shop the way I would fix it would be to press a ring into the old hole and weld it in. I would then machine the area out where needed.
Nice going, you have some great equipment in your shop. Another way would have been to fly cut a bigger hole then bush back with loctite and even a grub screw on the outer interface if warranted, then rebore again to size with the flycutter. This avoids any welding and therefore any chance of distortion. If you get stuck again I will chime in. Giving you a follow.
U should try and bring back the differential clutch idea, but without the lawnmower transmission. Legit one of the best ideas, but I don’t have the money to try it myself
It makes me think of something I’d see at the state fair. Don’t have it on the shelf forever, you definitely should raffle it off or donate it to something. Things like this are really fun just to look at and admire the craftsmanship.
On thick aluminum like that (ESP when you cant turn the amps up on the welder to burn it in) it wouldve helped a LOT to pre-heat it with a torch - Not as much with steel, but makes a HUGE difference in Alloy- ALSO- if you return back to something like this- the Reverse ratio needs to be as low or lower than first- your reverse gears are WAY too tall-
That last bit about the Argon is so funny because I did the same thing last time I was welding. I was trying to figure out why my mig gun was being so finicky and was playing around with the drive wheel and testing different tension on the drive wheel so had the Argon off and then once I got it working I started welding and didn't even think about the shielding gas. Luckily I was just doing some tacks so major harm just a forehead slap and back at it.
Build you a simple tap guide from a slice of metal with a series of standard tap sizes holes, place over a hole to tap and it holds the tap at a 90 for you!
If you took the gear on gear drive section and converted it to chain drive like everything else, I believe that it could be serviceable. sure it weighs a fair amount but it would be cool to see it operate and I am curious how did you envision making a clutch setup for it? To be honest you did kind of overbuild it using 1" depending on the engine you intended to put ahead of it. I would be interested in how you would make the shifter forks and gate for gear selection. I would like to have seen what kind of speed that would have rendered. Awesome work and I wouldn't abandon the idea completely; instead, consider refining what you have done into a more compact package and a more serviceable version.
Sometimes I can’t weld the amperage that I need because of my breaker, so I heat the piece with a map pro torch and then use lower amps. That size aluminum I would preheat even if I could max out my welder.
My recommendations to make it reliable for a go kart: - attach some sort of an oil slinger to one of the gears to lubricate the dogs and the shift forks during operation. -as long as there is constant lubrication, the shaft will not wear prematurely because there will be a film of oil to act as a bearing. -a way to drastically reduce the weight of the unit, the frame can be milled out while leaving some webbing for strength. - (edit) adding a chain tensioner made of high wear plastic (similar to one on an engine timing chain) should take up the slack and quiet up the gearbox.
Use a UHMW bushing between the shifting mechanisms and the gears. We use them on 400 horse electric motors that run our planer drives in my mill. No metal to metal contact and cushions during startup and slow down. Some pretty tough bastards too. Our couplings are designed just like you designed the shifting mechanism.
You could 100% sort out the metal on metal, mill out the parts and add a bronze bush. Just make sure the keyways are chamfered. Lighten it up by removing the side plates and swap with some light box section frame and thin sheet. Mill out some voids on the end plates. You could 100% use this gearbox, it looks way strong enough, just needs some minor improvements.
If you put bearings inside of the hubs on the input side, you'd eliminate the metal on metal grinding and it would probably hold up pretty well. Provided you didn't try to shift the gears while it's moving. I'm going to try to make something similar but only with 3 modes, crawl, 1:1, and reverse.
If you've ever tore down a automatic trans you use bronze bushing with a lot of holes drilled in it to let it ride on oil and then put yourself seals on the input and output shaft to keep the oil in, also if you could of use helical cut gears the noise would have be a lot quieter!! Great try keep up the good work!!!
It’s a cool piece, Chris. Maybe if you added needle bearings under the sprockets on the drive shaft, then partially filled the case with gear oil, it would hold up.
Or self lubricating brass bushings with oil bath and maybe add some sorbotane rubber on the contact surfaces to smooth the gear contacts, or alternatively tig weld some self hardening tool steel on the surfaces to make them last hellawa lot longer.
Aluminium conducts heat very well which means you need lotd of amps because a lot of heat is lost. you could constantly heat the aluminium plate with a propane torch and thus need less amperage. it would be inconvenient but it might work. greetings from germany
Install some grease niples on the moving parts, add some good moly grease and chain lube every now and then. Make it somewhat closed to resist dust and mud. it would make a awesome video to see this gearbox but into action
Dude you have the tools to add reverse to a motorcycle transmission. Replace first gear to have R N 1234, or replace whatever you want and make a custom shift drum.
Criss this setup would work perfectly fine we run much smaller and weekend gearboxes on racing lawnmowers and they can hold upwards of 60 hp if you don't mistreat them slap a bottom plate top plate and shifter on it and it will hold up very well
great work bro it s proof of concept, i think it would work fine for mudding mower or something like that slow with whole lotta go, something you dont need keep switching bunch gears itll be fine
There are so many ads I fast forward most of the video. Awesome work but a shame with so many ads for a 30 minute video. If your looking to monetize. Split the videos up. I don’t have a problem watching more then one video. But some of the ads are 5 minutes long!
Just use gear oil and see how long it lasts, or get in touch with someone and film a super slo mo of it blowing up
Warped perception 👌
my quad uses a lawn mower trans that works exacly like this and is built far, far less strong... i bet this will handle a solid 5x the power and way more in a low speed application.. this being said, that reverse gear will blow it up the way its built it needs a bushing on the input shaft and a much deeper ratio for reverse.. looks to me like reverse is gears somewhere near 2nd gear which again is fine for a low speed machine or even his lathe???
creeps
I appreciate you tapping those holes properly and not just using a drill
I wished he did it with a drill. 🤷🏻♂️
It is only aluminum afterall.
Well. A drill press or mill to align the tap with a dead center.
Using a pusher tap on a blind hole isn't considered proper. Side note, there's nothing wrong with tapping under power.
Dude, the projects on your channel are so superior to RBG and C&C. You're up there with GHP in terms of your builds and engineering skills. You're Dad must be really proud of you. Keep up the good work.
*Your**
@@AutodidactEngineer 😂
@@AutodidactEngineer yoar*
Yarrrr
@@jesse1136yer
For the welding issue, try next time to heat up the plate with a burner torch. Heat it up to 300 degrees Celsius and start welding. I bet you’ll succeed
Maybe even a spool gun?
Ab same as I would just do pre heat save 30-50 amps needed easily
I agree preheat the plate I have welded a whole lot of half inch aluminum plate ..preheat helps a lot
@@forkjob Would still require preheating the plate. The reason is, aluminum is a very good conductor, and the heat used to melt it is rapidly conducted away from the weld, in effect, cooling the weld. By preheating, the welder doesn't have to provide as much heat for the weld and it is not wicked away as fast.
I normaly do it over 500 degrees hot with my hardox shit is that to much?
Thank you for no ads in your video🙏
I don’t mind ads if it means the creator is putting revenue back into the channel. I just don’t like when they just stick with the UA-cam default locations and don’t move the ads to match natural breaks in the video.
Look at Andrew Camarata. He never had ads but when he started it gave us more videos because he was buying lots of new equipment or toys that usually needed repairs for “no reason”.
I'm watching a ad right now...
Pre-heat the aluminum to 300f and it will weld easier. Also adding a small amount of helium or you can run it on dc to weld thick aluminum .
I bought a small bottle of helium to weld with my DC tig but never used it. Now I have the prime weld 225 LOL. still hard to weld. LOL Maybe preheat is the secret.
Son, I admire your desire to figure stuff out on your own, and you're damned good at it But if you'd have asked, I'd have said to simply make a pair of offset bushings for the bearings. Easily done on your lathe and mill in, oh, a few hours...
Don't be shy to ask! Write me; I'd be more than happy to brainstorm with you when you're stuck.
I agree offset bushing are great because they would allow for chain stretch later on.
I was going to suggest oversize bearings (bigger OD) but that is an even better idea..
@@jasondk5127 🤦♂️🤦♂️
So you adjust for chain slack then how do you accommodate the gear mesh for the reverse gears?
Here is an example of someone saying they have a better way to solve a problem. when he had solved the problem just fine. after all I don't see you building gearboxes on youtube.
@@harryrenner4016 OUCH! Well I would have done just that. I build gearboxes for a living ( retired now ) and got paid pretty good for it. Math errors happen and sometimes you have to scratch your head and fix it. This lad did the best he could with the experience and tools at his disposal. I would have moved my hole over to the dimension I needed and simply bored the hole out round and made a sleeve. Weld the sleeve in and you are done. That said it's what I would do on a home project like this. If it was at work I would be staying over on my own time making new plates to fix my f***up. Lighten up on people trying to give feed back. It takes a lot of skill to get a set of gears to mesh properly and with the equipment he has the deck was stacked against him. But he persevered and fixed the problem and I'm proud of him for that. There are so many ways that the lifespan of that unit was limited but we shall not go there. The fact that he got on UA-cam and fixed it speaks volumes.
Build a gear box yourself. Record your progress and overcome the shortcomings of his design. Let us know how you do with that.
Cheers!
Terry from South Carolina
I've been waiting for an update on this for so long! Glad you can finally get back to this project.
Finish the gearbox, put your UA-cam name on the side, and donate it to a local high school CAD class or something. They will get a kick out of it and learn something.
Omg that's brilliant! Good thinking.
I was thinking the same thing it weeks go Great in a stem class
@@danieleasley9616 YESSSSSS
I donated a cut away Chevy 3 speed to my shop class in high school
They’re best off with OEM parts.
They’d learn more if he went in and showed it off/built one with them.
How anyone could dislike your content is beyond me. This is essentially a gearhead's "try not to be satisfied challenge" series, but it's most of your videos. Thank you!
Hear me out on this one. Reduce the shafts' diameter to a common size, install oil impregnated brass bushings of the original shaft OD and the new shaft's ID in the contact areas. You'd only have to cut them to length and press them in (I think the material is called Oilite, or something similar), seal it up and fill with oil, and you have a transmission and reverse for your lathe.
I usually reserve my comments, mostly because comments are such a good way of showing my ignorance, but a couple details about this project caught my eye and compelled me to open my pie hole. First, it was surprising and refreshing to see something as simple as a tap being used correctly. It has been about two of your lifetimes since Dad showed me basic tap technique, Seems like yesterday.....I want to add that you may be surprised by how long that transmission lasts, depending on application. It/s not suitable for high speed or gear banging, but it should be fine for something like a tractor or similar.....The basic idea is not dissimilar to the two speed chain drive that has been running in my old Mountaineer. for 60 years. It is a trail bike similar to the Tote Gote and the similar large mini bike trail/packing typpes from the 50's and early 60s. Totally open to weather and dust, but a bit of oil daily and it is trouble free. Like a tractor, you stop to shift, Just a granny and a high, but the belt type torque converter does the rest....Cheers, keep up the interesting projects.
thats something like you would see in a engineering class for training . . i like it .
What matters most is you persevered, and gained knowledge .Good job
We have in our family a 1913 Morgan 3 wheeler that is a 2 speed drive using sliding dogs like you arw using.
From the V -Twin 998cc engine via a leather cone clutch and propshaft to the rear.
I admire your thought and work that has gone into this.
Cheers from Durban, South Africa.
Right on schedule. I look forward to your videos every Sunday.
It will make for a cool piece to have on the wall. A cool shifter and some embellishments and you’ll love it.
iF YOU WANT TO STOP THE NOISE AND RINGING IN THE GEAR BOX YOU NEED TO USE HELICAL GEARS. Helical gears operate more smoothly and quietly compared to spur gears due to the way the teeth interact. The teeth on a helical gear cut at an angle to the face of the gear. When two of the teeth start to engage, the contact is gradual--starting at one end of the tooth and maintaining contact as the gear rotates into full engagement.
Love seeing younger guys building things in the shop
So much of any motor is metal on metal and you’ve got heftier parts there than most machines, I say maker work, oil bath and you’ll be set, it won’t last 300,000mi but what cart would?
I can't be the only one watching this here and thinking "Underdrive, one to one, overdrive, and reverse could make this quite useful as a quick change lathe spindle gearbox" can I? It would be significantly quicker than moving belts on pulleys to change gearing.
He'd probably want to swap the two smallest sprockets to ones with a couple less teeth to get a wider speed range, but apart from that it looks almost made for the job. I could see it being quite a useful feature on his lathe project, and for the diameters Chris usually turns it looks like it would probably be up to the task. Worst case he'd need to open up the bores of the pulleys to press some plain brass bushings into them.
Nice solve. Someone else probably mentioned this, but another option is to bore the hole oversized then press in a bushing. Now you've got new material to move your hole.
That is some Make It Extreme engineering right there.
Come on. It’s not that bad. 😉
JK. Make it Extreme does great work.
i remember when you worked on dirt bikes in that basement yes i have been around for a long time lol
Turn it into a hoist that's operated by a drill so you can lift heavy stuff with ease. Mount to a table and run a chain to a rope on a spool.
Every time I see an engineering sample of yours I just sit back in awe. I'm absolutely sure I could figure out the same problem and come up with the same solution but it probably wouldve taken me much longer to make something so stupidly simple.
That box is so heavy duty it will fit a steam powered traction engine let alone a go-kart!!
the pre ww2 frazer nash cars(from the UK) used the same system with chains and a gear train in a slightly different layout and were powered by anything up to a dual supercharged gough 4cyl engine. but most had 4 forward and reverse setup ( the frazer nash owners club is called "the chain gang" because of the use of the chain drive) and the cars were very successfully used in both race and rally events. side note: the frazer nash car company is the only car company in the world that can state that (with the oldest ones now over 100 years old ) EVERY single car built is still surviving today and most are still raced and rallied. they have special frazer nash only races at historic racing events in the UK for them.
After two years that was one long project you got there
USE IT! You got nothing to lose. Seal and fill it with just enough gear oil that the gears and sprockets are down far enough to sling the oil. Nice job!
Oh, and pull the bearing seals exposed to the gear oil.
I'll say you are one amazing guy/engineer! You create products to market and sell. I am in awe! I'm surprised that no one never took a transmission from a Harley Davidson and machined fit it to a go cart engine! No reverse but, it would go.
Nice Job. An easier method to increase dedendum: Saw cut plates & weld. Clever use of couplings without elastomer spider. Consider an electric go cart without transmission.
Its really cool to see you do a machining project like this just for the hell of it. This video was great overall; the editing, music, all good.
Not done just for the hell of it. He recorded it to post and therefore get a paycheck from Google.
Tip: get some Tap Magic Cutting Oil. Makes cutting and threading a breeze. WD40 is not a lubricant.
W-D 40 works great for cutting aluminum, not sure what you are talking about..
2 things I see in the future for Chris.
A live center for the lathe. Reason is obvious.
A self made press using a porta pack hydraulic ram. So much better than using a hammer to install or remove bearings or bushings.
2 to 3 thou is pretty good for a homemade lathe. It was your lathe build that got me hooked on your channel.
Just another prime example of your fantastic machining skills. Well done Chris 👍🏼👍🏼
Das ist ja ein Monstergetriebe ! 💪 Und Laut 👂 !
For the lack of amps welding, if its not on its own circuit it needs to be, that will fix most of your issues. If you're still having issues, use a heat gun on the back side while you're welding, up the gas pressure, and slow down your welds and use smaller rod. Aluminum demands you take your time and not rush. I used to have to weld pressurized aluminum pipe in the field and it was always a patience game with how well the beads and fillets lay and being able to hold the pressure.
This is really interesting. I like seeing your gear box videos. I don't know a hole lot about transmissions so seeing someone build a small one is really helpful
Would be a great show and tell piece for meetups. Ideas could be bounced off one another. Or a 3 speed rotisserie with reverse.
Yup a real Joe just trying stuff out thanks for almost finishing it still want to see it shifting mechanically love the real average man vids
I didn't real all of the comments do I apologize if this is redundant, but if one were so inclined, a motorcycle transmission could pretty easily be modified by one with your skills, tools, and determination. It wouldn't be hard to either just pull the shafts and build a box for them or in a less refined more time oriented course of action, plenty of others have disassembled the case, cut off the unneeded bits, and attached block off plates to seal the unit back up. Some use mills to cut the case, others use bandsaws and still other much more patient gluttons for punishment (Alan Millyard for instance) have built some amazing builds starting with a hacksaw. If it's less about the doing and more about the final result there's services like chop-cut-send that are surprisingly reasonably priced (much less than I expected) for custom cut products. SuperfastMatt uses them frequently and mentioned what one order cost and while still not what I would consider "cheap" it definitely was much less than I expected and certainly what I would consider reasonable for the parts he got.
Can you do more clips in real time they are really interesting.
I'm from germany and really like to watch your videos👍
Now build a giant blender, attach motor, add H-shifter and we'll have one bad ass margarita maker for the next tailgate party. 😀
Would love to see this morph into a This Old Tony collab to see if it can be made more practical and usable!
That would be an awesome collab
Agree. TOT collaboration, would be hugely beneficial for him. TOT has a lot to offer in the machinist tips and tricks department. There are several other engineers on the tube that could help too. A mass production 2 speed with reverse would be awesome for us custom builders. Would be nice to have one that can handle 20-30hp that doesn't cost an arm and a leg.
Kiến thức chế đồ của bạn rất tốt. Phòng dụng cụ khá đầy đủ thiết bị. Tôi đã xem những video của bạn, tôi rất thích điều đó. Cảm ơn bạn. Chúc bạn thành công hơn nữa
I would round the corners on those dogs, so it will give it a slight taper and help them to shift a little easier. If you bathed that in oil, it would last just fine, although its very heavy.... What I would do if i was you, is buy a cheap motorcycle engine that has a blown motor, and you could steal the trans gears out of that and put it into your own little case, that would be a good project. You could even use the engine itself as the case and just take the cylinder off and strip it down.
The two speed go cart is what brought me here originally, and this peaked my interest with part 1 so long ago. I've stayed for all of the other great content, but to see this build finally come back and be completed just made me way happier than I thought it would. I remember how many ways I thought it might go together, and how long I held out hope that I might see what you actually had planned. lol
Thank you for finishing this, and for all of the hard work you've put into this channel over the years. :)
Amazing Work Great Music.
I would love to see a version 2, although if you do a version 2 I would suggest normal open bearings with oil seals on the outside if it is a oil bath system. There's less maintenance than those sealed bearings.
As a Machinist who worked for 26 years in a machine shop the way I would fix it would be to press a ring into the old hole and weld it in. I would then machine the area out where needed.
Could you imagine him and Ethan from Grind Hard plumbing could build if they collaborated. They both are natural born fabricators. Impressive Chris
Even without oil or dirt covers it would still last at least twice as long as a Focus gearbox...
😆😆😆
Break cleanee and wd40 will last like a hilux
Nice going, you have some great equipment in your shop. Another way would have been to fly cut a bigger hole then bush back with loctite and even a grub screw on the outer interface if warranted, then rebore again to size with the flycutter. This avoids any welding and therefore any chance of distortion. If you get stuck again I will chime in. Giving you a follow.
Glad you are finishing up projects. I have on I have been putting off for a few months.
As an old auto mech, I really enjoyed this vid😁
Lot of nice work. Oh well, put it on a riding lawnmower, mow the lawn in 1/3 the time!
U should try and bring back the differential clutch idea, but without the lawnmower transmission. Legit one of the best ideas, but I don’t have the money to try it myself
I has been waiting this video for over 2 years, never better said.
You can use this gearbox on your lathe.I made one for my lathe from old soviet bike and it works great.
It makes me think of something I’d see at the state fair. Don’t have it on the shelf forever, you definitely should raffle it off or donate it to something. Things like this are really fun just to look at and admire the craftsmanship.
Regardless if it would hold up or not It's still quite an accomplishment. Nice video.
On thick aluminum like that (ESP when you cant turn the amps up on the welder to burn it in) it wouldve helped a LOT to pre-heat it with a torch - Not as much with steel, but makes a HUGE difference in Alloy-
ALSO- if you return back to something like this- the Reverse ratio needs to be as low or lower than first- your reverse gears are WAY too tall-
Came to suggest this, that's a big piece of aluminum that is just sucking all the heat you put into it away from the weld, like a big heat sync.
This is good advice.
That last bit about the Argon is so funny because I did the same thing last time I was welding. I was trying to figure out why my mig gun was being so finicky and was playing around with the drive wheel and testing different tension on the drive wheel so had the Argon off and then once I got it working I started welding and didn't even think about the shielding gas. Luckily I was just doing some tacks so major harm just a forehead slap and back at it.
this thing will be awesome as a display piece!!
Build you a simple tap guide from a slice of metal with a series of standard tap sizes holes, place over a hole to tap and it holds the tap at a 90 for you!
All it needs is two grooves in the moving dogs, and a lever and fork setup to actuate them, and it's complete. :D Noice.
If you took the gear on gear drive section and converted it to chain drive like everything else, I believe that it could be serviceable. sure it weighs a fair amount but it would be cool to see it operate and I am curious how did you envision making a clutch setup for it? To be honest you did kind of overbuild it using 1" depending on the engine you intended to put ahead of it. I would be interested in how you would make the shifter forks and gate for gear selection. I would like to have seen what kind of speed that would have rendered. Awesome work and I wouldn't abandon the idea completely; instead, consider refining what you have done into a more compact package and a more serviceable version.
very much like a transfer case! Pretty cool man!
Sometimes I can’t weld the amperage that I need because of my breaker, so I heat the piece with a map pro torch and then use lower amps. That size aluminum I would preheat even if I could max out my welder.
My recommendations to make it reliable for a go kart:
- attach some sort of an oil slinger to one of the gears to lubricate the dogs and the shift forks during operation.
-as long as there is constant lubrication, the shaft will not wear prematurely because there will be a film of oil to act as a bearing.
-a way to drastically reduce the weight of the unit, the frame can be milled out while leaving some webbing for strength.
- (edit) adding a chain tensioner made of high wear plastic (similar to one on an engine timing chain) should take up the slack and quiet up the gearbox.
Awesome idea with the art piece
Use a UHMW bushing between the shifting mechanisms and the gears.
We use them on 400 horse electric motors that run our planer drives in my mill. No metal to metal contact and cushions during startup and slow down.
Some pretty tough bastards too.
Our couplings are designed just like you designed the shifting mechanism.
You could 100% sort out the metal on metal, mill out the parts and add a bronze bush. Just make sure the keyways are chamfered.
Lighten it up by removing the side plates and swap with some light box section frame and thin sheet. Mill out some voids on the end plates.
You could 100% use this gearbox, it looks way strong enough, just needs some minor improvements.
This is very nice! Respect from an engineer.
If you put bearings inside of the hubs on the input side, you'd eliminate the metal on metal grinding and it would probably hold up pretty well. Provided you didn't try to shift the gears while it's moving. I'm going to try to make something similar but only with 3 modes, crawl, 1:1, and reverse.
Try using TAP MAGIC fluid, much better for aluminum. Cleaner threads, less broken taps on small screw sizes.
You can weld on a hot plate in order to extend your welder. You can also increase od of bearing and enlarge hole moving center to desired location.
If you've ever tore down a automatic trans you use bronze bushing with a lot of holes drilled in it to let it ride on oil and then put yourself seals on the input and output shaft to keep the oil in, also if you could of use helical cut gears the noise would have be a lot quieter!! Great try keep up the good work!!!
Great job bro. Glad youbwere able to finish this project
You should live with nothing to lose and nothing to prove!
Nice job. It could be used to control a multi speed welding table. With a veritable speed motor it could be used as a table or lathe type set up.
So seal it up and put it on a stationary test mule spinning a weighted flywheel and see what fails.
You make things very difficult to do easily. With good equipment.
It’s a cool piece, Chris. Maybe if you added needle bearings under the sprockets on the drive shaft, then partially filled the case with gear oil, it would hold up.
Or self lubricating brass bushings with oil bath and maybe add some sorbotane rubber on the contact surfaces to smooth the gear contacts, or alternatively tig weld some self hardening tool steel on the surfaces to make them last hellawa lot longer.
Aluminium conducts heat very well which means you need lotd of amps because a lot of heat is lost. you could constantly heat the aluminium plate with a propane torch and thus need less amperage. it would be inconvenient but it might work.
greetings from germany
You need to make yourself a set of V-Blocks. Watching you use parallels on round stock kills a portion of my soul everytime.
Install some grease niples on the moving parts, add some good moly grease and chain lube every now and then.
Make it somewhat closed to resist dust and mud.
it would make a awesome video to see this gearbox but into action
Dude you have the tools to add reverse to a motorcycle transmission. Replace first gear to have R N 1234, or replace whatever you want and make a custom shift drum.
That's badass building your own transmission man. You'll get it perfected.
Criss this setup would work perfectly fine we run much smaller and weekend gearboxes on racing lawnmowers and they can hold upwards of 60 hp if you don't mistreat them slap a bottom plate top plate and shifter on it and it will hold up very well
Don't give up.. You're almost there man
So glad to see this almost finished!
Future project is to make same principle gearbox, just better, as in, fix the issues with this one?
That would be a nice conversation piece. Maybe put a plexiglas table top and some legs on it?
You could use brass with groves and holes that allow oil to get in but that's a whole lot more work
Man i feel it would hold up like a beast every thing is so heavy its like a1930 Cadillac needs alittle tweeking
great work bro it s proof of concept, i think it would work fine for mudding mower or something like that slow with whole lotta go, something you dont need keep switching bunch gears itll be fine
just a tip. you should pre heat the aluminum with a torch first and it will weld 100% better.
There are so many ads I fast forward most of the video. Awesome work but a shame with so many ads for a 30 minute video. If your looking to monetize. Split the videos up. I don’t have a problem watching more then one video. But some of the ads are 5 minutes long!