It amazes me how far you’ve come in the technical part of your builds in the last few years. And yes I’m sure the equipment helps a bunch but still, you’re the one that’s operating them. Great job!! 👍👏
I'm a machinist by trade, and I have really enjoyed you incorporating the machine tools into recent builds. Great content. Those machine tools can make anything you can dream up 👍 (and I see you are learning this)
A trick I saw when welding Aluminum is to use a piece of ceramic tile between your main piece and your bench or vise. It keeps the heat from pulling to the steel.
Preheating aluminium trick. If you block the air holes on your blow tourch. You can leave a black carbon soot layer on the aluminium . Then heat as usual. When the black carbon disapeares. It is at ideal welding temperature
Chris mate what you do seems to get better and better every single video.What you do build and create out of your little shed and what you work with is truly amazing im in literal awe.Keep the content coming please dude 💯💯🔥🔥👍👍😁😁
That’s a sharp looking differential. You combined that open dif and chain drive perfectly. Are you sure it won’t hold oil? You could easily machine in o-ring grooves to the base plates. Grease may work good enough but I think oil would be much better. Either way it looks great. 👍
That's an "open diff" not limited slip. Limited slip has clutches in the diff that help turn botb tires at the same rate. When turning the clutches break free and let them spin at different rates. Turning brakes need to be run on an open diff. However. This setup makes me wonder if he could install a selectable locker line an OX locker or an ARB and get the best of both worlds. In a project like this the cost doesn't make since. But it definitely got my brain going. Especially since I have two ARB lockers sitting in my shop.
DUDE AWESOME!!!!! No knock at all..... differential build is so you can "tractor brake", right? Can't help but think short wheelbase gonna be to quick of movement for application. Sooo look forward watching to see how it is. Thank you for awesome builds!!!!!
You a a damn good machinist Chris. I like seeing you come up with your own design’s rather than just buying something that is pre made. Keeps you thinking outside the box. You have become one of my favorite channels. Thanks for all the great video’s.
Your fit and finish/attention to deal is getting MUCH better. Plus this diff idea is awesome. It gives me some ideas for my own projects. Btw the way. Grease will work absolutely perfectly in this setup. The reason diffs need oil is to lube the ring/pinion gears, pinion bearings, and axle carrier bearings. You don't have any of those requirements in this setup. You carrier bearings are sealed, you don't have a pinion at all, and your ring gear is a sprocket. The spider gears technically only spin when the tired are spinning at different rates. They have a lot less rotational action than those other parts would. Plus you can pack the hell out of them with grease, like a wheel bearing. The only suggestion I have is an o-ring or RTV on the two halves of the diff cover. Even grease will start spitting out eventually. Keep up the progress man. I really enjoy watching your growth. One last thing. Seriously consider cutting the back put of that baja body like a class 5 unlimited baja bug. That will hive you WAY more room for you to move your seat back. That will help with overall packaging for steering too. You might want to consider going 100% hand controls too. Like an old school honda pilot.
I know this is at a totally different scale, but the Traxxas RC cars run a sealed differential with silicone grease inside, then an external (unlubricated) ring & pinion. I know they're not subjected to nearly the same forces as this differential will be, but if he can find a pint or two of *heavy* weight silicone grease (500,000 weight? Million weight?), he'd have a bit of a viscous locker in the unit - no clue how it reacts if it gets hot though - it may thin out at the higher temps this differential will see!
I'm not sure anyone has said this yet, but in the UK we call differential braking Fiddle Brakes... mostly used on tractors and trials cars... trials cars are maybe a sport that doesn't happen much outside the UK but well worth investigating!
@@jammerlupardi8782 Um... I think you're wrong... The ability to brake one wheel means you can either stop the wheel with less traction spinning away all your power, or in a situation where both wheels have pretty much the same grip, you can slow the inner wheel and turn more quickly.... This is what torque verctoring om modern EVs is all about.
The idea of that diff is awesome, I have rebuilt a few over the years and have had to a few times because of the wrong gear oil being used. I'm sure if you machined some o-ring grooves where the diffential mounts to the housing it would work fine for you.
Awesome to see how far you have come over the years, i went out and brought a bunch of machines then realised i didn't buy tooling so now i keep getting stuck paying people to fix/make stuff i can't. Keep it up and keep enjoying yourself
Love your videos and your builds, not only the way you film but the soundtrack as well, what ever music you use at 3:00 is all I hear when watching your videos, the combo just makes it that much better. THANK YOU FOR THE CONTENT BRO!!!
You know sometimes I hear and understand what you want to accomplish but can't see how your going to make it work then as I watch I start to see it all come together and somehow it just works, I'm a little jealous, I know in my head what I want to make but just can't make it work. Your chain drive diff is something I've wanted to figure out for a couple of years, wonderful job. Go power sports mite want to by that design, that is a game changer for go karters.
You can put oil in that differential. Machine grooves and use O-rings between the diff and your tophat at both ends. One plug can be used to drain and fill it. Just weld an equal weight on the opposite side for balance. 👍
Have a look into "legends" race cars, they use Yamaha bike engines with a driveshaft coupler on the front sprocket then you can use small car rear axles direct to the bike engine. Plus I bet you could make a beast of a legends race👍
Chris, this may be your best work yet! And I thought you would have a tuff time beating the fact that you built your own lathe from scratch years ago! Great work! You might consider adding a large o-ring to help seal up the housing. Awesome first video of the year!
I’m Glad I found your Channel years ago your such a great Machinist I don’t remember how many times I’ve said this I really enjoy watching make pieces of art and they work when your done !! You need to have some kind of a give away on murch one of your projects and spend so much for a chance to win one that would get you more money to build more projects also !! Just keep up the Great work you do on your Channel Thank you
Fantastic job. Suggest for your next project build a long travel, high speed Tank tracked vehicle. Look up Ripsaw. And you’ll still be able to use chain drive.
Hey if you want to use grease i recommend john deere corn head gear box grease it's from really thick to thin and back to thick so it can lube all components with out leaking out of the gear box.
Don't worry about a grease fitting. Use a pack of CV axle grease. Pack it all and then bolt your housing on. You won't need to keep adding grease. Pack it once and go.
Use a thin gasket material on the side where the differential bolts up and turn an internal o-ring groove on the other end and you can use gear oil....
A differential is under rated for these and other buggies. You get a hold of an older Miata with torsen limited slip and that could be a huge advantage, especially off roading.
Nice! I would recommend a tiny pipe plug opposite the grease fitting to let air out when you pump grease in. Your only leaks are between the bearing and housing and without a vent you could break the welds when you are putting the grease in. Don't overfill it with grease because it will need enough air in there to compensate for expansion when hot.
Grease should work great for the diff gears. Most rear end friction is from the ring and pinion that yours doesn't have. A small leak onto the sprocket and chain isn't bad either. Just make sure to keep any lube off your brakes.
You should be able to run oil in that. The cv axles retain the seals. As long as you can create a sealing surface between the diff and the aluminum it should work fine.
firstly happy new year Chris 🎉🎊 secondly I am totally blown away by your ability to build these amazing things out of basic scrap metal in your back yard. I hope this year goes very well for you.
You should get yourself a small bottled gas oven or barbecue (like the small ones you use for camping) so you can chuck in those parts before welding. We have our dedicated induction oven in our welding area, but those require proper cabling to work right. That said, they're a huge difference to welding aluminium and cast iron.
Double check how you have your seals set up, looks like you have sealed bearings and then also added the stock seal in addition to that. The gear oil will find its way down the splines and to that space between the seal and bearing and potentially leak between the bearing and its seat on the diff, looked like a slip fit. If it’s a good seal, when the diff heats up it’ll pressurize itself and increase the potential for leaking.
Next time use subaru R160 center diff. Parts I bought: 2004 Subaru outback 160 5 bolt Diff - 4.44 viscous limited slip 59 bucks from u-pull yard. The Subaru factory green inner CV cups accept RZR XP1000 axle spider & balls. Here are the Polaris axles that should work including the exact one I bought: 1333944 - rear axle - uses a 3235777 center axle - outer cv joint is 3236155. 1333439 - rear axle - uses a 3235777 center axle- outer cv joint is not 3236155 - this is the axle I bought.
I would use the Dirt Tricks Dirtbike sprocket for that diff. Superior over those cast sprockets. See them break teeth all the time where I don’t with the dirt tricks ones
The differential housings between different vehicles are very different but inside it pretty much the same thing. So you can do the same conversion thing with almost all scrap/cheap differentials you find.
@17:33 I would cut a groove like you did for your c clip where your diff bolts together and find an o ring to fit so you can run fluid! I think it'll work and you are more than capable with skill and tools you have on hand! Worst case scenario YOU END USING GREASE😜
Fantastic work and HAPPY NEW YEAR Chris! Keep up the good work, that final result looks exactly how I believed you were going to recreate it after seeing you pull that diff from its old housing! If you choose to use fluid in that housing rather than grease, I'm sure you could cut grooves for o-rings and the like and/or use a liquid gasket. Either way, love what you're doing man, very innovative!
If you machined for o-rings .Yuo could then use diff oil and then you could put in a lsd . Great channel. P.S. I use a hot plate to get thick metal hot for welding. Again great channel.
Hee man great project, when watching ad 5:00 making a chamfer. You could just put your insert on somewhat 45degree en pus against it. its in a 4 jaw so it wont come out no matter what.
That's awesome work Chris.You may consider machining sleeves that slide over the cv, where the axle goes into the diff. ,and screw it on so you can carry an extra axle for trail repairs instead of welding.Whatever you do,it'll be great. Have a Happy,and Safe New Year.
I'd try filling diff with oil first. Maybe a groove in aluminium for o-ring on sprocket side and chamfer on smaller side to fit o-ri g as well. Grease will lubricate gears, but you are expecting it to melt down ebough to lubricate axles on which gears ride. Or you could try using silicone to prevent leaks. Great job nonetheless
For your differential, find a Castrol distributor and buy a tube of Pyroplex Blue #1 grease. It's an extreme use grease that's commonly used in mining, semis, construction equipment, and other heavy equipment. #1 is the designation for winter weight (thinner). It's also hydro activated. That means that it is very resistant to washout if there is water intrusion. Should fill your need.
Use grease mixed with oil. That is what old royal Enfield gearboxes used as lubricatnt since they don't have proper oil seals. Grease might get cacked to the casings.
Happy New Year to you and your family. The old British A series mini cooper engine has a narrow diff built into the gear box Chris. Much narrower than the mazda diff.
If youre using grease you should mix a tiny bit of some oil with a good cold temperature viscosity. Will keeo the grease moving into places it needs to be. I do the same with my driveshaft cv's. it works great until a gaiter splits 😂😂
Grease should be no problem in there. Ring and pinion, carrier bearings, and pinion bearings are what really need good lubrication but you’ve eliminated all that, the spider gears should be turning a very minimal amount and some nice thick grease might even give you a bit of “viscous coupling” LSD action.
So you get a perfect cylinder with your roller, trim it to the right diameter, tack the two outside points and the center of the line to be welded and chuck it back into the roller. Roll it a couple of times and you should have a perfect cylinder. The tacks should be small, but if you can't get them clean, just file them away to flat.
It amazes me how far you’ve come in the technical part of your builds in the last few years. And yes I’m sure the equipment helps a bunch but still, you’re the one that’s operating them. Great job!! 👍👏
Funny, I was just thinking the same thing, how far his machinist skills have come!
this guy deserves a fronius sponsorship, ive seen people with much less subs get set up with some amazing gear
I'm a machinist by trade, and I have really enjoyed you incorporating the machine tools into recent builds. Great content. Those machine tools can make anything you can dream up 👍 (and I see you are learning this)
It would be cool to see your works since you brought it up.
That's the nicest looking chain drive diff I've ever seen anyone make.
A trick I saw when welding Aluminum is to use a piece of ceramic tile between your main piece and your bench or vise. It keeps the heat from pulling to the steel.
Diffs work with gear oil. A bung and a few cooling fins and you're golden.
Preheating aluminium trick.
If you block the air holes on your blow tourch. You can leave a black carbon soot layer on the aluminium .
Then heat as usual. When the black carbon disapeares. It is at ideal welding temperature
Chris mate what you do seems to get better and better every single video.What you do build and create out of your little shed and what you work with is truly amazing im in literal awe.Keep the content coming please dude 💯💯🔥🔥👍👍😁😁
That’s a sharp looking differential. You combined that open dif and chain drive perfectly.
Are you sure it won’t hold oil? You could easily machine in o-ring grooves to the base plates. Grease may work good enough but I think oil would be much better.
Either way it looks great. 👍
How is this limited slip?
That's an "open diff" not limited slip. Limited slip has clutches in the diff that help turn botb tires at the same rate. When turning the clutches break free and let them spin at different rates. Turning brakes need to be run on an open diff. However. This setup makes me wonder if he could install a selectable locker line an OX locker or an ARB and get the best of both worlds. In a project like this the cost doesn't make since. But it definitely got my brain going. Especially since I have two ARB lockers sitting in my shop.
@@AMetalWorks I stand corrected. I’ve never fully understood differentials. Like how limited slip would work but clutches make sense.
@@jakeminogue My mistake
The outer assembly doesn't move against itself, so he could do the same with a chemical/liquid gasket
100 лет такие делаем, как будто что-то новое придумал. Давно смотрю твои видео, но такой шляпы от тебя не ожидал
DUDE AWESOME!!!!! No knock at all..... differential build is so you can "tractor brake", right? Can't help but think short wheelbase gonna be to quick of movement for application. Sooo look forward watching to see how it is. Thank you for awesome builds!!!!!
It would work excellent as a center diff as well. It would be a pretty ideal set up for a mid engine side output.
You a a damn good machinist Chris. I like seeing you come up with your own design’s rather than just buying something that is pre made. Keeps you thinking outside the box. You have become one of my favorite channels. Thanks for all the great video’s.
Your fit and finish/attention to deal is getting MUCH better. Plus this diff idea is awesome. It gives me some ideas for my own projects.
Btw the way. Grease will work absolutely perfectly in this setup. The reason diffs need oil is to lube the ring/pinion gears, pinion bearings, and axle carrier bearings. You don't have any of those requirements in this setup. You carrier bearings are sealed, you don't have a pinion at all, and your ring gear is a sprocket. The spider gears technically only spin when the tired are spinning at different rates. They have a lot less rotational action than those other parts would. Plus you can pack the hell out of them with grease, like a wheel bearing. The only suggestion I have is an o-ring or RTV on the two halves of the diff cover. Even grease will start spitting out eventually.
Keep up the progress man. I really enjoy watching your growth.
One last thing. Seriously consider cutting the back put of that baja body like a class 5 unlimited baja bug. That will hive you WAY more room for you to move your seat back. That will help with overall packaging for steering too. You might want to consider going 100% hand controls too. Like an old school honda pilot.
I know this is at a totally different scale, but the Traxxas RC cars run a sealed differential with silicone grease inside, then an external (unlubricated) ring & pinion. I know they're not subjected to nearly the same forces as this differential will be, but if he can find a pint or two of *heavy* weight silicone grease (500,000 weight? Million weight?), he'd have a bit of a viscous locker in the unit - no clue how it reacts if it gets hot though - it may thin out at the higher temps this differential will see!
Once again, I'm very impressed with the quality of both the video work and the machining and welding you do. Great work!
I'm not sure anyone has said this yet, but in the UK we call differential braking Fiddle Brakes... mostly used on tractors and trials cars... trials cars are maybe a sport that doesn't happen much outside the UK but well worth investigating!
It’s got nothing to do with braking, it’s about power going to the wheel with least resistance…no offense
@@jammerlupardi8782 Um... I think you're wrong... The ability to brake one wheel means you can either stop the wheel with less traction spinning away all your power, or in a situation where both wheels have pretty much the same grip, you can slow the inner wheel and turn more quickly.... This is what torque verctoring om modern EVs is all about.
Same here in New Zealand common in the trial truck/off-roading seen always been known as fiddle brakes
Heh, I learned something new today (and I'm a brit!)
We call em cutting cutting brakes out here on the west coast.
Great job on the differential Chris. Your machinist skills just keep getting better and better.
The idea of that diff is awesome, I have rebuilt a few over the years and have had to a few times because of the wrong gear oil being used. I'm sure if you machined some o-ring grooves where the diffential mounts to the housing it would work fine for you.
Awesome to see how far you have come over the years, i went out and brought a bunch of machines then realised i didn't buy tooling so now i keep getting stuck paying people to fix/make stuff i can't.
Keep it up and keep enjoying yourself
Your very talented, the stuff you build is awesome
Love your videos and your builds, not only the way you film but the soundtrack as well, what ever music you use at 3:00 is all I hear when watching your videos, the combo just makes it that much better. THANK YOU FOR THE CONTENT BRO!!!
It’s amazing how u have progressed with fabrication and engineering
You know sometimes I hear and understand what you want to accomplish but can't see how your going to make it work then as I watch I start to see it all come together and somehow it just works, I'm a little jealous, I know in my head what I want to make but just can't make it work. Your chain drive diff is something I've wanted to figure out for a couple of years, wonderful job. Go power sports mite want to by that design, that is a game changer for go karters.
You can put oil in that differential. Machine grooves and use O-rings between the diff and your tophat at both ends. One plug can be used to drain and fill it. Just weld an equal weight on the opposite side for balance. 👍
You are the real deal man! Very talented 👏
Awesome setup especially with you doing the cutter brakes that you are going to install in it
Just a little tip I saw on U-TUBE when welding aluminum run your welder on 200 amps DC and mix in a little helium and get try it on scrape. 😊
Have a look into "legends" race cars, they use Yamaha bike engines with a driveshaft coupler on the front sprocket then you can use small car rear axles direct to the bike engine.
Plus I bet you could make a beast of a legends race👍
*beast of a legends race car.👍
Awesome work! Can’t make it any better than that.
Great job only recommendation is I would’ve put a O-ring groove in the housing between the differential. And the other thing is some type of breather.
Chris, this may be your best work yet! And I thought you would have a tuff time beating the fact that you built your own lathe from scratch years ago! Great work! You might consider adding a large o-ring to help seal up the housing. Awesome first video of the year!
I’m Glad I found your Channel years ago your such a great Machinist I don’t remember how many times I’ve said this I really enjoy watching make pieces of art and they work when your done !! You need to have some kind of a give away on murch one of your projects and spend so much for a chance to win one that would get you more money to build more projects also !! Just keep up the Great work you do on your Channel Thank you
Ever tried upping the frequency rather than amperage? Much tighter arc for better control, and much deeper heating locally for a given amperage.
200 HERTZ will do better for ya if your machine will go that high.
@@jeffburmaster5306 spotted the steve morris fan lol
That lathe is equal parts incredible and terrifying.
Fantastic job. Suggest for your next project build a long travel, high speed Tank tracked vehicle. Look up Ripsaw. And you’ll still be able to use chain drive.
you make it look easy. Custom sprocket mounts and even bearings are a pain in the butt and you have to be very precise. Nice work dude!
Agreed great work but to your concern of leakage you could add oring grooves between the diff and housing as well as between the small side and diff
Hey if you want to use grease i recommend john deere corn head gear box grease it's from really thick to thin and back to thick so it can lube all components with out leaking out of the gear box.
Don't worry about a grease fitting. Use a pack of CV axle grease. Pack it all and then bolt your housing on. You won't need to keep adding grease. Pack it once and go.
My man makes his own pillow block and flange bearings. Chris....you're becoming unstoppable.
3:27 That annular cutter is awesome!!
Dudee that hole saw at the beggining its just beautifull
It's called an annular cutter. Much like a hole saw, but extremely precise, and for metal only
been wanting to do a motorcycle powered cart so this is awesome as an idea
You’re really good at making parts
Thanks for filming Chris. 😁👍🏼
Use a thin gasket material on the side where the differential bolts up and turn an internal o-ring groove on the other end and you can use gear oil....
A differential is under rated for these and other buggies. You get a hold of an older Miata with torsen limited slip and that could be a huge advantage, especially off roading.
For grease use cv joint grease (molybdenum disulphide) but mix it with hypoid gear oil to make it a wee bit thinner.
Your machining skills are 👌
Nice! I would recommend a tiny pipe plug opposite the grease fitting to let air out when you pump grease in. Your only leaks are between the bearing and housing and without a vent you could break the welds when you are putting the grease in. Don't overfill it with grease because it will need enough air in there to compensate for expansion when hot.
Grease should work great for the diff gears. Most rear end friction is from the ring and pinion that yours doesn't have. A small leak onto the sprocket and chain isn't bad either. Just make sure to keep any lube off your brakes.
You should be able to run oil in that. The cv axles retain the seals. As long as you can create a sealing surface between the diff and the aluminum it should work fine.
Awesome! I'm doing diff steering on a rock crawler this year. Hoping it works as good as I imagine.
I've just subscribed to your channel my friend I'll check it out once I've watched Chris do his incredible work.
@@martyn5799 I'll never be as cool as Chris 😎
firstly happy new year Chris 🎉🎊 secondly I am totally blown away by your ability to build these amazing things out of basic scrap metal in your back yard. I hope this year goes very well for you.
Now this is some of your best work by far. I love seeing the growth over the last few years!
OMG this differential build is glorious! Thanx Chris. Good job man.
This diff is a thing of beauty
Chris look at redline shockproof diff lube! It's really thick but not as thick as grease! Alot of racers use it especially in 4wd transfer cases!
Next time you build one with seals so you can run oil in it, that’s a vary creative idea for that setup
Beautiful craftsmanship. Another interesting video thank you
V.neat indeed, youve come long way from the Crude go karts you used to build.
Very nice work. So nice that I would love to have one just like it if you ever build them for sale.👍
Wow , amazing quality engineering
I was dumbfounded to see that there was almost zero runout on that diff! Crazy!
You should get yourself a small bottled gas oven or barbecue (like the small ones you use for camping) so you can chuck in those parts before welding. We have our dedicated induction oven in our welding area, but those require proper cabling to work right. That said, they're a huge difference to welding aluminium and cast iron.
Double check how you have your seals set up, looks like you have sealed bearings and then also added the stock seal in addition to that. The gear oil will find its way down the splines and to that space between the seal and bearing and potentially leak between the bearing and its seat on the diff, looked like a slip fit. If it’s a good seal, when the diff heats up it’ll pressurize itself and increase the potential for leaking.
For got to add. If you put the brake discs on wheel carriers if axles break you will still have brakes
Packing it with grease may help it be more of a limited slip
if you wanna do oil cut out a gasket for the diff and great content man keep it up
Love your work brother 🙏, keep up the push to extending your skillset.
Awesome creativity!!! Keep up the good work.
Chris has obviously done a weekend metal course to be this good..😂
Happy New year friend.👍
Next time use subaru R160 center diff. Parts I bought: 2004 Subaru outback 160 5 bolt Diff - 4.44 viscous limited slip 59 bucks from u-pull yard. The Subaru factory green inner CV cups accept RZR XP1000 axle spider & balls. Here are the Polaris axles that should work including the exact one I bought: 1333944 - rear axle - uses a 3235777 center axle - outer cv joint is 3236155. 1333439 - rear axle - uses a 3235777 center axle- outer cv joint is not 3236155 - this is the axle I bought.
Happy New Year to you your family and all your subscribers.
New year, new ideas.
I would use the Dirt Tricks Dirtbike sprocket for that diff. Superior over those cast sprockets. See them break teeth all the time where I don’t with the dirt tricks ones
The differential housings between different vehicles are very different but inside it pretty much the same thing. So you can do the same conversion thing with almost all scrap/cheap differentials you find.
@17:33 I would cut a groove like you did for your c clip where your diff bolts together and find an o ring to fit so you can run fluid! I think it'll work and you are more than capable with skill and tools you have on hand! Worst case scenario YOU END USING GREASE😜
Fantastic work and HAPPY NEW YEAR Chris!
Keep up the good work, that final result looks exactly how I believed you were going to recreate it after seeing you pull that diff from its old housing!
If you choose to use fluid in that housing rather than grease, I'm sure you could cut grooves for o-rings and the like and/or use a liquid gasket.
Either way, love what you're doing man, very innovative!
lol the euros do this with a coffee can and Miata diffs 🤣🤣 over-engineering is a great art!!
If you machined for o-rings .Yuo could then use diff oil and then you could put in a lsd . Great channel. P.S. I use a hot plate to get thick metal hot for welding. Again great channel.
Here's a challenge; try making floating brake discs, and hardmount the calipers.
Impressive build!!!
May be able to make gasket for between the two surfaces then fill it full of oil in stead of grease oil would spin easier also
Hee man great project, when watching ad 5:00 making a chamfer. You could just put your insert on somewhat 45degree en pus against it. its in a 4 jaw so it wont come out no matter what.
That's awesome work Chris.You may consider machining sleeves that slide over the cv, where the axle goes into the diff. ,and screw it on so you can carry an extra axle for trail repairs instead of welding.Whatever you do,it'll be great.
Have a Happy,and Safe New Year.
You do great work thanks for your videos
I'd try filling diff with oil first. Maybe a groove in aluminium for o-ring on sprocket side and chamfer on smaller side to fit o-ri g as well. Grease will lubricate gears, but you are expecting it to melt down ebough to lubricate axles on which gears ride. Or you could try using silicone to prevent leaks.
Great job nonetheless
All the best in new year 😎
If you weld the inside first on the rolled aluminum sheet. It will deform less when you weld the outside
Happy nye to firstly the man himself Mr Chris welding lol and all his subscribers,🎉🎉😅😅
For your differential, find a Castrol distributor and buy a tube of Pyroplex Blue #1 grease. It's an extreme use grease that's commonly used in mining, semis, construction equipment, and other heavy equipment. #1 is the designation for winter weight (thinner). It's also hydro activated. That means that it is very resistant to washout if there is water intrusion. Should fill your need.
if you want to make it oil tight you will have to cut a grove in the case where it meets the diff and make a custom O-ring out of rubber
New Sub, thanks for the content. I found your video interesting, informative and entertaining. I look forward to viewing more from your channel.
Use grease mixed with oil. That is what old royal Enfield gearboxes used as lubricatnt since they don't have proper oil seals. Grease might get cacked to the casings.
Happy New Year to you and your family. The old British A series mini cooper engine has a narrow diff built into the gear box Chris. Much narrower than the mazda diff.
If youre using grease you should mix a tiny bit of some oil with a good cold temperature viscosity. Will keeo the grease moving into places it needs to be. I do the same with my driveshaft cv's. it works great until a gaiter splits 😂😂
Grease should be no problem in there. Ring and pinion, carrier bearings, and pinion bearings are what really need good lubrication but you’ve eliminated all that, the spider gears should be turning a very minimal amount and some nice thick grease might even give you a bit of “viscous coupling” LSD action.
Nice machine work Chris 👌
So you get a perfect cylinder with your roller, trim it to the right diameter, tack the two outside points and the center of the line to be welded and chuck it back into the roller. Roll it a couple of times and you should have a perfect cylinder. The tacks should be small, but if you can't get them clean, just file them away to flat.