I admire you for having the courage to jump into this yourself. It's not easy when one faces inexperience, inadequate tools, and the cramped quarters of a boat. So far you're doing fine.
Really positive comment that’s definitely given us some well needed encouragement! So thank you!!☺️ We’ve had a huge amount to learn and really weren’t sure we’d get this far with it, so every step completed means a lot to us!
Great episode, looking forward to the next steps. I have a 2GM20F that dates back to 1987 so this content is very relevant to my own situation, thanks for posting!
Thanks for watching Allan! We searched UA-cam for some similar videos but couldn’t really find much on this, so we’re hoping we can at least give some help to those looking to do the same!
I've got an older Yanmar too (a 2qm15) and not yet had to go as deep as yourselves. But couple of things. 1.) I once got a hell of a fright when disconnecting the alternator. The loosened bolts on the belt tension adjuster thingy that allowed the alternator to fall and contact the engine resulting in a 12 volt fireworks display and lightning storm in a very confined space. I wish someone had pointed out the 'isolate batteries first' to me on that occasion 2.) Rubber gloves are great and I've used them often as getting old carcinogenic oil, grease n diesel with decades of grime n filth off afterwards is a bugger on a boat. A very good trick when the tropical atoll you are next too doesnt stock them is dishwashing detergent. BEFORE you touch anything drizzle a small amount on your hands and rub it in all over. Air dry them until hands are touch dry. Then go to work. You'll really appreciate it when you wash your hands hours later. Its a wicked trick :-)
Great episode - you guys aren’t shy to get stuck right in! Years ago I took my boat engine out, took it home completely refurbed it and reinstalled only to find it wouldn’t start! Finally called in an engineer who discovered water in the fuel - completely unrelated problem! So expect the unexpected! Mercy Christmas!
Ah thanks for watching Mike and for the comment! Oh no let’s hope we don’t find out it’s something unrelated to the cylinder head😬 Either way it’s been a huge learning curve so we’re glad of that. Just hope we can get it back together again!!
Ah thank you for watching, it was definitely a step beyond our knowledge but have learnt so much doing this ourselves! Hopefully get the next instalment out in the new year
Thanks so much for watching, this one was definitely more on the informative side so might not be for everyone. But glad we’ve put this one together and hope it helps some people doing the same job in future! Have a great xmas too!!
Just add another spanner to the one your using to double the length........closed end to open end.....well done never be afraid of tackling a job....do as you've done.... take your time and you'll do fine
@@steverides4636 Thanks Steve, we only found out you could do this with spanner’s TODAY!! We’ve got so much to learn, but you’re right, you have to be brave and just get into it!
I felt your pain with those head bolts. I'm amazed you hadn't scuffed all your knuckles in the process. The head looks in amazing condition. Not wanting to be the bringer of bad news, but perhaps the knocking is from lower down the engine, like a main crank bearing. Hopefully its something simpler.
Some knuckles were definitely bleeding by the end of it:( Ah maybe you’re right… something we really didn’t want to do was get into the cylinders and crank shaft etc. But it does all look in good condition, so starting to worry. We haven’t got her started again yet, so fingers are still crossed for when we do
Yeah archer breaker bar handle it’s longer have more mechanical advantage or use a pipe over the handle on your ratchet you’re gonna need a torque ranch to put it back together
Great video guys thanks for sharing. Reminded me of my rebuild. I bought a few specialty wrenches like torque wrenches. And as you learned a breaker bar for tight bolts helps a lot. Good luck, be safe.
Thanks so much for watching! You’re right, we were well under prepared for the head bolts, a breaker bar will definitely be on the xmas list this year!
I would hate to think how much a new head is as it was nearly £1000 for the single cylinder version. I had a local machine shop rebuild mine. New valve seats, valve stems and grind..
The stuff that was in your crankcase probably isn't water it's diesel. If the lift pump went bad as you mentioned it can leak fuel direct into the crankcase. To the point it can actually fill the crankcase completely and hydrolock it.
I did the same job on the 3gm 30 last year with similar starting problems head was OK but it had 2 bent conrods you can check with a straight edge along the top of the pistons they should be slightly above the top of the block at tdc. Hopefully yours are OK as it's an engine out job
Yikes, thanks for the heads up! We’ll have a look at that. Really hoping that what we have done will solve the issues and we don’t have to dig any deeper into the engine🤞🏼
Well that was painful to watch, I am so sorry you have to go thru this. I know this diesel - we have the 35hp HM35 version also built in 1989. Looking at the shape of your components, I'm guessing you were wrongly advised and none of that teardown was nessacery. On the plus side it won't hurt to adjust the valves and knock the soot from the exhaust elbow and look at the experience you gained.
@@montanadan2524 Definitely a painful process… We think so too, everything looks in good enough shape, so it might have all been for nothing. But as you say, experience gained and will give it all a refurbish now it’s out
Haha, yep! Got the feeler gage and have now sorted the clearance (we think). Just got the fuel lines to bleed, fluids to top up and then she’s ready for a starting attempt!🤞🏼
Hi thanks for the comment and for the very generous offer!! We have just gone and got ourselves a nice shiny new torque wrench. We thought it was best as could be something we need in a hurry one day down the line. Thanks so much tho!
Suggest changing your engineer. If you have a knocking engine then the first go to is an injector service. The engineer presumably did a power check on each cylinder during his diagnoses of valves? I watched a bit of the "How to start a diesel engine", diesel engines do not need bleeding if they have been standing for a few weeks or indeed months. Some diesels on ships such as emergency bilge and fire pumps are run up pretty irregularly but do not need bleeding. You said a leak was found on the lift pump, that is almost certainly the cause of air ingress. You have gone too deep too quickly, probably committed yourselves to unnecessary work and expense. Reckon the engineer was looking for some work at £78 per hour.
Thanks for watching John, you’re probably right about that! Having looked at the cylinder head and not really seeing any major issues were wondering why we’ve gone to all the trouble. The exhaust mixer elbow was in pretty bad shape and could have caused water to get into the block, creating those rust patches. So we’re replacing that. Yep we’ve since learnt about the bleeding and not needing to do it, rookie error and shows how much we’ve still got to learn! Definitely the lift pump causing the issue. Really hope the knocking sound isn’t there when we’re all back together, whatever the cause
@@SailingIndiana Make sure you have an injector service, diesel knock only comes from 2 sources poor injection or timing advanced. Just as a comparison our local yard charges their engineers at £48 per hour including vat! Where are you?
@@johnglover9935 Too far for us to come and get some help! But good to know there are cheaper options. We are planning a trip to Falmouth next year, all being well
Well that was painful to watch. I am holding my breath for the next episode because I belive you got bad advice. Well I guess it never hurts to knock the soot outta the exhaust elbow and adjust the valves. How many run hours?
A painful process indeed… let’s see how it runs once we’ve got it back together, maybe it’ll even start on the button now? Not sure if run time hours actually, not a huge amount we think, but the dial isnt working so no way of knowing😕
Great video, really well filmed & explained - you are going to know that engine inside out when it's all done
Thanks Guy! You’re right, we have learnt so much already and have come so far from when we started it, with zero knowledge!
I admire you for having the courage to jump into this yourself. It's not easy when one faces inexperience, inadequate tools, and the cramped quarters of a boat. So far you're doing fine.
Really positive comment that’s definitely given us some well needed encouragement! So thank you!!☺️ We’ve had a huge amount to learn and really weren’t sure we’d get this far with it, so every step completed means a lot to us!
Your Yanmar 3GM30 experience has convinced me to buy a new motor when my 3GM30's hard starting gets too bad !!
Put the bolts and washers back in the hall that came out of it when you start to put it back together they will be there what do you need them
Great episode, looking forward to the next steps. I have a 2GM20F that dates back to 1987 so this content is very relevant to my own situation, thanks for posting!
Thanks for watching Allan! We searched UA-cam for some similar videos but couldn’t really find much on this, so we’re hoping we can at least give some help to those looking to do the same!
I've got an older Yanmar too (a 2qm15) and not yet had to go as deep as yourselves. But couple of things. 1.) I once got a hell of a fright when disconnecting the alternator. The loosened bolts on the belt tension adjuster thingy that allowed the alternator to fall and contact the engine resulting in a 12 volt fireworks display and lightning storm in a very confined space. I wish someone had pointed out the 'isolate batteries first' to me on that occasion 2.) Rubber gloves are great and I've used them often as getting old carcinogenic oil, grease n diesel with decades of grime n filth off afterwards is a bugger on a boat. A very good trick when the tropical atoll you are next too doesnt stock them is dishwashing detergent. BEFORE you touch anything drizzle a small amount on your hands and rub it in all over. Air dry them until hands are touch dry. Then go to work. You'll really appreciate it when you wash your hands hours later. Its a wicked trick :-)
Great episode - you guys aren’t shy to get stuck right in! Years ago I took my boat engine out, took it home completely refurbed it and reinstalled only to find it wouldn’t start! Finally called in an engineer who discovered water in the fuel - completely unrelated problem! So expect the unexpected! Mercy Christmas!
Ah thanks for watching Mike and for the comment! Oh no let’s hope we don’t find out it’s something unrelated to the cylinder head😬 Either way it’s been a huge learning curve so we’re glad of that. Just hope we can get it back together again!!
Good on yer, mate! I admire your tenacity and planning. Can't wait to see the following steps.
Ah thank you for watching, it was definitely a step beyond our knowledge but have learnt so much doing this ourselves! Hopefully get the next instalment out in the new year
Very informative as always - good luck on the rest of the project- have a wonderful,Xmas and looking forward already to your adventures in 2022
Thanks so much for watching, this one was definitely more on the informative side so might not be for everyone. But glad we’ve put this one together and hope it helps some people doing the same job in future! Have a great xmas too!!
Always keep a little piece of pipe for those stubborn bolts so to insert the wrench we call it a jimmy bar it often helps to loosen
Ah yep, this would have come in very handy on those head bolts… we will invest in one going forwards 😬
Just add another spanner to the one your using to double the length........closed end to open end.....well done never be afraid of tackling a job....do as you've done.... take your time and you'll do fine
@@steverides4636 Thanks Steve, we only found out you could do this with spanner’s TODAY!! We’ve got so much to learn, but you’re right, you have to be brave and just get into it!
I felt your pain with those head bolts. I'm amazed you hadn't scuffed all your knuckles in the process. The head looks in amazing condition. Not wanting to be the bringer of bad news, but perhaps the knocking is from lower down the engine, like a main crank bearing. Hopefully its something simpler.
Some knuckles were definitely bleeding by the end of it:( Ah maybe you’re right… something we really didn’t want to do was get into the cylinders and crank shaft etc. But it does all look in good condition, so starting to worry. We haven’t got her started again yet, so fingers are still crossed for when we do
Yeah archer breaker bar handle it’s longer have more mechanical advantage or use a pipe over the handle on your ratchet you’re gonna need a torque ranch to put it back together
Put the nuts and bolts washers back where you got them out though and they will be there when you start to put it back together.
Great video guys thanks for sharing. Reminded me of my rebuild. I bought a few specialty wrenches like torque wrenches. And as you learned a breaker bar for tight bolts helps a lot. Good luck, be safe.
Thanks so much for watching! You’re right, we were well under prepared for the head bolts, a breaker bar will definitely be on the xmas list this year!
I would hate to think how much a new head is as it was nearly £1000 for the single cylinder version. I had a local machine shop rebuild mine. New valve seats, valve stems and grind..
Torque wrench is also important as the head has to be torqued down
Yep, we’ve now bought one of these! Always handy to have onboard
A little length of scaffold pole would be useful for extra leverage on those stubborn bolts?
Definitely! Some kind of breaker bar would have come in very handy😬😓
The stuff that was in your crankcase probably isn't water it's diesel. If the lift pump went bad as you mentioned it can leak fuel direct into the crankcase. To the point it can actually fill the crankcase completely and hydrolock it.
I did the same job on the 3gm 30 last year with similar starting problems head was OK but it had 2 bent conrods you can check with a straight edge along the top of the pistons they should be slightly above the top of the block at tdc. Hopefully yours are OK as it's an engine out job
Yikes, thanks for the heads up! We’ll have a look at that. Really hoping that what we have done will solve the issues and we don’t have to dig any deeper into the engine🤞🏼
Well that was painful to watch, I am so sorry you have to go thru this. I know this diesel - we have the 35hp HM35 version also built in 1989. Looking at the shape of your components, I'm guessing you were wrongly advised and none of that teardown was nessacery. On the plus side it won't hurt to adjust the valves and knock the soot from the exhaust elbow and look at the experience you gained.
@@montanadan2524 Definitely a painful process… We think so too, everything looks in good enough shape, so it might have all been for nothing. But as you say, experience gained and will give it all a refurbish now it’s out
Get ready for the joy of valve clearances and bleeding... did you remember a feeler gauge in the tool kit? .
Haha, yep! Got the feeler gage and have now sorted the clearance (we think). Just got the fuel lines to bleed, fluids to top up and then she’s ready for a starting attempt!🤞🏼
A little white permanent marker some times helps to number parts and positions
Good call! We have used lots of little plastic tubs and written on tape on the sides, cautious not to mix things up!
Hiya, When you put it back together you will need a torque wrench. I am happy to lend you mine. We're in Universal - Hamble if that's any help?
Hi thanks for the comment and for the very generous offer!! We have just gone and got ourselves a nice shiny new torque wrench. We thought it was best as could be something we need in a hurry one day down the line. Thanks so much tho!
as you already have the injectors out you can change the rubber seals they cost some euro but...you already have 'em out..
Yep we’ve ordered them as the old ones have definitely perished. Could be part of the issue actually
Suggest changing your engineer. If you have a knocking engine then the first go to is an injector service. The engineer presumably did a power check on each cylinder during his diagnoses of valves? I watched a bit of the "How to start a diesel engine", diesel engines do not need bleeding if they have been standing for a few weeks or indeed months. Some diesels on ships such as emergency bilge and fire pumps are run up pretty irregularly but do not need bleeding. You said a leak was found on the lift pump, that is almost certainly the cause of air ingress. You have gone too deep too quickly, probably committed yourselves to unnecessary work and expense. Reckon the engineer was looking for some work at £78 per hour.
Thanks for watching John, you’re probably right about that! Having looked at the cylinder head and not really seeing any major issues were wondering why we’ve gone to all the trouble. The exhaust mixer elbow was in pretty bad shape and could have caused water to get into the block, creating those rust patches. So we’re replacing that.
Yep we’ve since learnt about the bleeding and not needing to do it, rookie error and shows how much we’ve still got to learn! Definitely the lift pump causing the issue.
Really hope the knocking sound isn’t there when we’re all back together, whatever the cause
@@SailingIndiana Make sure you have an injector service, diesel knock only comes from 2 sources poor injection or timing advanced. Just as a comparison our local yard charges their engineers at £48 per hour including vat! Where are you?
@@johnglover9935 Ok we will definitely get the injectors serviced! Wow £48😳 We are in Brighton marina, where are you??
@@SailingIndiana just over the Devon Cornwall border.
@@johnglover9935 Too far for us to come and get some help! But good to know there are cheaper options. We are planning a trip to Falmouth next year, all being well
don't scrape the engine head with iron blade....always use hard plastic (softer than the engine) otherwise you'll be in serious trouble...
Ah good info, we have been scraping some parts with Stanley blade but not the head. Found the a normal brilo pad works the best though!
solution 1...great. You get free water...
Haha, very true! We preferred the first solution!
and...you're missing a torque wrench to put the head back in place.
Well spotted! We’ve now bought one, worth getting and having onboard anyway
Well that was painful to watch. I am holding my breath for the next episode because I belive you got bad advice. Well I guess it never hurts to knock the soot outta the exhaust elbow and adjust the valves. How many run hours?
A painful process indeed… let’s see how it runs once we’ve got it back together, maybe it’ll even start on the button now? Not sure if run time hours actually, not a huge amount we think, but the dial isnt working so no way of knowing😕