Yes. I have an O’Day 30 with a Universal M3-20, a three cylinder 18 hp motor. Have to remove and replace the exhaust riser first. Mounts will be over the winter. The most intimidating part to me is realigning the drive shaft.
@@matthewsmith8249 the boat will have to be out the water to make sure the drive shaft is central to the shaft log. When the boats out the water, you can remove the stern seal. You will be able to see how central the drive shaft is in the hole. You can use packers at 3 points around the gap between the drive shaft and the shaft log, then get your engine alignment perfect. Will take a bit of time but worth the effort. Once it’s all spot on, remove the packers, put the seal back on and connect the drive shaft plate and it’s all done!
Good job. Like your superglue trick. Good video. Thanks. Be careful using acetone. It's heavier than air so fumes will settle in the bilge. Acetone fumes ignite easily. Friends lost a brand new boat when one worker had been using acetone, another came on board to do some electrical work. Simple spark set off the acetone. Burned to the waterline and also burned the boat moored next to it. If I need to use acetone on my boat I store it in the dock locker. And think carefully about where the fumes are going to settle. I find the biggest problem with engine work is horrible access and finding where things are. I've got two Yanmar manuals for my 4JH3, the drawings and photos say one thing, the real situation seems different. It's taken me two weeks to find the raw water pump. I know where it is, but I can't see it. Worse I can't even put my fingers on the four bolt heads to confirm that in fact it is there. I think to find these bolts I need to remove the alternator. I was being a good boat owner wanting to replace the impeller. Finding out this is nearly impossible to do, means I definitely should replace it because it's doubtful anyone has replaced it in ten years. There is a used one on board, as an emergency spare, so the job was done at least once. There's only 1300 hours on the engine, Yanmar says only to check it every 1000 hours...
Hi Will, glad you enjoyed it and found it useful. Have a look around the engine bay. You might find access hatches by removing panels to get to components easier. Spend an hour with a torch 🔦 As sometime it’s easy to overlook easier access. The manual will show you where the pump is but normally it’s really accessible? I’d change this every year or after a long trip. I do have a water pump rebuild vid I’ll upload in a few days. Very detailed doing a full strip down and diagnosis which might help out and thanks for the heads up on acetone. I never store it on the boat, only when cleaning up paintwork. I’m also doing a full overhaul on the heater matrix which might help. Make sure you subscribe as I have some great sailing also covering 600nm around the channel island. Thanks for watching
Nice! New to your channel but I like what I've seen so far. Doing the autopilot motor this week (as soon as it arrives), and maybe I'll tackle the motor mounts next winter. No real symptoms of problems, but I'll bet they're original 1987 vintage..
Hi Mickey. I'm glad you’re enjoying the content. Just been for a really amazing tour round the Channel Islands and south coast of Uk and had some great sailing in over 32 knots. Some of the vids will be ready in a few weeks and thanks for the comment. All the best, Rob
Excellent presentation. It is just not easy to get access to anything in an engine compartment. I'll probably do this job in the next year, even if I end up doing the front mounts first and then coming back to do the rear mounts.
@@aa3nk honestly it’s not that bad of a job. The only one I had issues with was the back port side mount due to access. I would do it when your boats out the water and check the drive shaft alignment as this could have gone out over time. I also found a real shocker on the cutlass bearing which I’ll put a video up soon. Thanks for watching 😎🫡⛵️
@@EastCoastSailing_ Everyday is a new adventure. Yeah, I'll be doing that and the packing gland, changing out old cooling hoses and mapping out the electrical system. Probably will do some additional zinc systems so I can run Ham radio onboard. On the uptick, it doesn't get cold down here for very long. Spent 25 years in the metro DC area and have sailed the Chesapeake from top to bottom, down to Hatteras all of that. Now, I just want to sail in light air, throw out a line, catch a couple of fish and cook them right there, on the spot.
Have you got a newish boat if you me having to trace and change things or just time for some upgrading? Nothing better than fresh fish. When you have fish from the sea to the pan in 5 minutes you can’t ever by fish from a supermarket 🙌
@@EastCoastSailing_ This is a 1970 Morgan, 35' with a Yanmar 3GM30F. I have acquired the skills to do just about everything on the boat over the decades but I am not about to do a restoration. Just an old man with an old boat and neither one of is likely to be another ten years!
@@aa3nk 😂😂 very true. I have just brought a project boat for the channel. There will be some great restoration vids coming up on just about everything 🤝👌🏼😎⛵️
I build my own mounts. Those ones are wickedly expensive, undersized, and made out of sharp rusty steel. You can carve rubber with a Stanley Surform. I once punched and cut out 300 leather washers for an airplane motor. A boat or car? It's so easy to make great big aluminum mounts with rubber that will last for decades. If you can't make the right aluminum shape, find it.
@@stanleybest8833 Hi Stanley, great if you have the time to do this and it works. How do you bolt through rubber to hold the engine down without bridging the rubber reducing the vibration dampening properties ? Thanks
@@EastCoastSailing_You bolt it down on a drill press and make the hole with a jagged edged pipe or you buy or find a piece of rubber with a hole already in it. Don't forget to use leather fender washers and similar. For these, the center hole is made with a leather punch. Use real neatsfoot oil plus some antifunguscide. The outsides are traced with a ball point pen then cut with coarse scissors. Leather has tremendous sound dampening characteristics. Aluminum edges should be rounded and filed. Depending on the mount, it doesn't necessarily take long.
Hi, you can 💯 do the mounts when the boats in the water but if I were you i would wait until the end of the season before the lift out if its not a major issue. That way you can remove the stern seal to check the drive shaft is central to the hole. Also you can change the stern seal and cut-less bearing while you’re there but stern seal can’t come off when the boats in the water. I found some real shockers on the seal and drive shaft. I have yet to put that video up and the drive shaft was toast due to all the pitting and scoring. Have a look at the gori prop video Then support the drive shaft horizontally and vertically and then align your engine to this. The mounts will compress also. I have had to do 2 alignment adjustments to get it perfect and didn’t spill a drop of water from the seals. Hope that helps. All the best Rob
@@paddyfore Hi, I had it on the hard (out the water). You can change the mounts in the water if you are confident the drive shaft is located centrally in the stern tube. I didn’t have any confidence in it being central as nothing had been checked or upgraded. Also I had the boat out the water and I was changing the stern seal, drive shaft and cutless bearing so it took no extra time to check. however if you need to make sure the drive shaft is central in the stern tube. The only way to do that is taking the stern seal off and need to be out the water, ensure the gap between the drive shaft and stern tube is even. Can do this by using temporary packers. Then lining the engine drive plate up, check the clearances. Tighten drive plate bolts, then remove the packers and fit the stern seal. Hope this helps
@@paddyfore well worth doing. Found some shocking bolts, nearly rusted through and bent washers. No more than half a day to do it all. Good luck with it 💪
@EastCoastSailing_ cheers. I've a feeling ones gone. I was just pulling in to the slip and went to put it in reverse and there was a horrible clunk. Thankfully I was going very slow so wasn't too difficult to stop the boat. Same marina as you
@@paddyfore Oh nice, I didn’t realise. come and say hello next time. My gearbox makes a clunk if you don’t let the engine slow down before shifting from forward into reverse. Puts a lots of stress on the gear box and mounts. You will know if there bad by giving the engine a pry and visually inspecting it. Look for cracking and delaminating rubber from the mounts. See you in the marina
I'm not being funny (as we say up here when we're just about to be 'funny') but how are the new mounts different from the old (apart from a bit of surface rust)?!!!
Hi, it’s a good question. The rubber between the 2 mounting plates over time will degrade in a number of ways. The rubber will start to become brittle and delaminate from the plates as well as the rusting plate under the water pump will accelerate delimitation. If the mounts delaminate there is nothing holding the engine down to the stringer. Also these mounts were original (18 years old) and the rubber becomes very soft and loses its ability to dampen vibration as the mounts are 2 soft. Also did you not see the state of the bolts ? Always good to get to know your boat. A great upgrade for £286 and reduced the noise and vibration massively. Hope it helps. All the best Rob
@@gingerbard2607 neither would I personally however other things such as diesel coming into contact with the rubber will reduce the life span massively. I would check them over throughly every year! Good luck
Massively helpful. Massively. I don’t imagine it would all that different for a Universal.
Hi Glad it helped. what did you mean by the universal ? is that a make of engine ? thanks
Yes. I have an O’Day 30 with a Universal M3-20, a three cylinder 18 hp motor. Have to remove and replace the exhaust riser first. Mounts will be over the winter. The most intimidating part to me is realigning the drive shaft.
@@matthewsmith8249 the boat will have to be out the water to make sure the drive shaft is central to the shaft log. When the boats out the water, you can remove the stern seal. You will be able to see how central the drive shaft is in the hole. You can use packers at 3 points around the gap between the drive shaft and the shaft log, then get your engine alignment perfect. Will take a bit of time but worth the effort. Once it’s all spot on, remove the packers, put the seal back on and connect the drive shaft plate and it’s all done!
Good job. Like your superglue trick. Good video. Thanks. Be careful using acetone. It's heavier than air so fumes will settle in the bilge. Acetone fumes ignite easily. Friends lost a brand new boat when one worker had been using acetone, another came on board to do some electrical work. Simple spark set off the acetone. Burned to the waterline and also burned the boat moored next to it. If I need to use acetone on my boat I store it in the dock locker. And think carefully about where the fumes are going to settle.
I find the biggest problem with engine work is horrible access and finding where things are. I've got two Yanmar manuals for my 4JH3, the drawings and photos say one thing, the real situation seems different. It's taken me two weeks to find the raw water pump. I know where it is, but I can't see it. Worse I can't even put my fingers on the four bolt heads to confirm that in fact it is there. I think to find these bolts I need to remove the alternator.
I was being a good boat owner wanting to replace the impeller. Finding out this is nearly impossible to do, means I definitely should replace it because it's doubtful anyone has replaced it in ten years. There is a used one on board, as an emergency spare, so the job was done at least once. There's only 1300 hours on the engine, Yanmar says only to check it every 1000 hours...
Hi Will, glad you enjoyed it and found it useful. Have a look around the engine bay. You might find access hatches by removing panels to get to components easier. Spend an hour with a torch 🔦 As sometime it’s easy to overlook easier access. The manual will show you where the pump is but normally it’s really accessible? I’d change this every year or after a long trip. I do have a water pump rebuild vid I’ll upload in a few days. Very detailed doing a full strip down and diagnosis which might help out and thanks for the heads up on acetone. I never store it on the boat, only when cleaning up paintwork. I’m also doing a full overhaul on the heater matrix which might help. Make sure you subscribe as I have some great sailing also covering 600nm around the channel island. Thanks for watching
Thanks for sharing this. Very helpful!
Any time, glad it helped. All the best Rob
Great video Rob, and it was good to meet you the other day. Fortunately this isn't a job I'll need to do on my little boat!
Likewise and great to see your new boat! Always great to meet people interested in the channel 👌🏼
Nice! New to your channel but I like what I've seen so far. Doing the autopilot motor this week (as soon as it arrives), and maybe I'll tackle the motor mounts next winter. No real symptoms of problems, but I'll bet they're original 1987 vintage..
Hi Mickey. I'm glad you’re enjoying the content. Just been for a really amazing tour round the Channel Islands and south coast of Uk and had some great sailing in over 32 knots. Some of the vids will be ready in a few weeks and thanks for the comment. All the best, Rob
Excellent presentation. It is just not easy to get access to anything in an engine compartment. I'll probably do this job in the next year, even if I end up doing the front mounts first and then coming back to do the rear mounts.
@@aa3nk honestly it’s not that bad of a job. The only one I had issues with was the back port side mount due to access. I would do it when your boats out the water and check the drive shaft alignment as this could have gone out over time. I also found a real shocker on the cutlass bearing which I’ll put a video up soon. Thanks for watching 😎🫡⛵️
@@EastCoastSailing_ Everyday is a new adventure. Yeah, I'll be doing that and the packing gland, changing out old cooling hoses and mapping out the electrical system. Probably will do some additional zinc systems so I can run Ham radio onboard. On the uptick, it doesn't get cold down here for very long. Spent 25 years in the metro DC area and have sailed the Chesapeake from top to bottom, down to Hatteras all of that. Now, I just want to sail in light air, throw out a line, catch a couple of fish and cook them right there, on the spot.
Have you got a newish boat if you me having to trace and change things or just time for some upgrading? Nothing better than fresh fish. When you have fish from the sea to the pan in 5 minutes you can’t ever by fish from a supermarket 🙌
@@EastCoastSailing_ This is a 1970 Morgan, 35' with a Yanmar 3GM30F. I have acquired the skills to do just about everything on the boat over the decades but I am not about to do a restoration. Just an old man with an old boat and neither one of is likely to be another ten years!
@@aa3nk 😂😂 very true. I have just brought a project boat for the channel. There will be some great restoration vids coming up on just about everything 🤝👌🏼😎⛵️
Very encouraging! I probably need to look at doing mine, one of these years …. 😊
Yeah it wasn’t too much hassle she’s all ready to go in now any day 👌🏼
Hello Roy, will Piper be berthed across from Lou-Lou Belle again this season?
Super useful/helpful
@@brentwalthall9690 any time! Thanks for watching 😎
I build my own mounts. Those ones are wickedly expensive, undersized, and made out of sharp rusty steel. You can carve rubber with a Stanley Surform. I once punched and cut out 300 leather washers for an airplane motor. A boat or car? It's so easy to make great big aluminum mounts with rubber that will last for decades. If you can't make the right aluminum shape, find it.
@@stanleybest8833 Hi Stanley, great if you have the time to do this and it works. How do you bolt through rubber to hold the engine down without bridging the rubber reducing the vibration dampening properties ? Thanks
@@EastCoastSailing_You bolt it down on a drill press and make the hole with a jagged edged pipe or you buy or find a piece of rubber with a hole already in it. Don't forget to use leather fender washers and similar. For these, the center hole is made with a leather punch. Use real neatsfoot oil plus some antifunguscide. The outsides are traced with a ball point pen then cut with coarse scissors. Leather has tremendous sound dampening characteristics. Aluminum edges should be rounded and filed. Depending on the mount, it doesn't necessarily take long.
Were you hauled out or on the Hard when you replaced the mounts? I am wondering if this job be done while in the water?
Hi, you can 💯 do the mounts when the boats in the water but if I were you i would wait until the end of the season before the lift out if its not a major issue. That way you can remove the stern seal to check the drive shaft is central to the hole. Also you can change the stern seal and cut-less bearing while you’re there but stern seal can’t come off when the boats in the water. I found some real shockers on the seal and drive shaft. I have yet to put that video up and the drive shaft was toast due to all the pitting and scoring. Have a look at the gori prop video Then support the drive shaft horizontally and vertically and then align your engine to this. The mounts will compress also. I have had to do 2 alignment adjustments to get it perfect and didn’t spill a drop of water from the seals. Hope that helps. All the best Rob
Great video, very informative. Did you have the boat on the hard or in the water?
@@paddyfore Hi, I had it on the hard (out the water). You can change the mounts in the water if you are confident the drive shaft is located centrally in the stern tube. I didn’t have any confidence in it being central as nothing had been checked or upgraded. Also I had the boat out the water and I was changing the stern seal, drive shaft and cutless bearing so it took no extra time to check. however if you need to make sure the drive shaft is central in the stern tube. The only way to do that is taking the stern seal off and need to be out the water, ensure the gap between the drive shaft and stern tube is even. Can do this by using temporary packers. Then lining the engine drive plate up, check the clearances. Tighten drive plate bolts, then remove the packers and fit the stern seal. Hope this helps
@EastCoastSailing_ thanks fir the tips. I'm at the boat at the end of the month, I'll take a look
@@paddyfore well worth doing. Found some shocking bolts, nearly rusted through and bent washers. No more than half a day to do it all. Good luck with it 💪
@EastCoastSailing_ cheers. I've a feeling ones gone. I was just pulling in to the slip and went to put it in reverse and there was a horrible clunk.
Thankfully I was going very slow so wasn't too difficult to stop the boat.
Same marina as you
@@paddyfore Oh nice, I didn’t realise. come and say hello next time. My gearbox makes a clunk if you don’t let the engine slow down before shifting from forward into reverse. Puts a lots of stress on the gear box and mounts. You will know if there bad by giving the engine a pry and visually inspecting it. Look for cracking and delaminating rubber from the mounts. See you in the marina
I'm not being funny (as we say up here when we're just about to be 'funny') but how are the new mounts different from the old (apart from a bit of surface rust)?!!!
Hi, it’s a good question. The rubber between the 2 mounting plates over time will degrade in a number of ways. The rubber will start to become brittle and delaminate from the plates as well as the rusting plate under the water pump will accelerate delimitation. If the mounts delaminate there is nothing holding the engine down to the stringer. Also these mounts were original (18 years old) and the rubber becomes very soft and loses its ability to dampen vibration as the mounts are 2 soft. Also did you not see the state of the bolts ? Always good to get to know your boat. A great upgrade for £286 and reduced the noise and vibration massively. Hope it helps. All the best Rob
@@EastCoastSailing_ Now I get it! I wouldn't be following the manufacturer's four-yearly recommendation though
@@gingerbard2607 neither would I personally however other things such as diesel coming into contact with the rubber will reduce the life span massively. I would check them over throughly every year! Good luck
Be back in the water soon mate