As a civil engineer, I love these videos with detailed explanations and real-world examples of how this stuff comes together. Too many of us are stuck looking at drawings and specifications, but everything makes much more sense when you can see it actually come together.
That adjustable ratchet/wrench was quite interesting. It seems like it would have uses beyond just loosening bolts under water lines.I did a search on google and did not see one sold that works for 3/8 drive sockets.
What’s the average price you would charge for a new hydrant installation? And I’m in Illinois basically Chicago. We also put auxiliary valves with every hydrant.
In our jurisdiction they recently switched from having us pour a thrust block to just rodding. We then have to put roofing tar on the rodding so it doesn't rust. Wssc is kind of picky with these hydrants
Just wondering what was wrong with the old hydrants? My guess is that they were leaking by and would not shut off all the way. Probably couldn’t get a rebuild kit because of how old they were. You mentioned it was installed in the 60s. Did you get to keep the old hydrants and add them to your collection? Love your Channel, keep up the good work.
I'm not 100% sure what was wrong, I was just there to help replace it. I'm sure there are not any parts available for those old beasts. I did not keep it, I have one hydrant at home. I don't think my wife would appreciate a second, lol. Thanks for the support.
you did all that work and didn't put coated T bolts in. that hydrant will last 100 years but those bolts ive seen fail after 5-10 years in acidic soils. we have 40 hydrants to install in the next 8 months we use nothing but blue bolts. we have hydrants from 1880's still in operation.
I’m in Chicago and we use coated bolts on the T bolts but for some reason the shoulder bolts that go onto the top of the mechanical joint to hydrant are always just stainless. How much you guys charging per hydrant to install? I noticed he didn’t buy the hydrant with attached A valve. He always do.
@alanmiller6061 I work for a large municipality and we do all our own installs but we only allow coated bolts or stainless. I've seen non coated one last less than 10 years
I forgot to mention that NFPA13 6.6.2.5 Requires you to coat all rods and bolts with a bituminous spray coating. I like to use spray undercoating that comes in a spray can. Please like and subscribe to help the channel grow. Feel free to leave a comment. I would like your input so I can improve the channel. Thanks for watching!
It all depends on the situation. If you have a good operator doing the excavating and you’re not too deep, don’t have anything in your way, you can do it in about 4 hours. However, I would never plan on that. You could get in a situation where you have to pour a thrust block back. Now you’re talking all day and a return trip after the concrete sets. I would figure all day and exclude pouring a thrust block if you are giving them a price.
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As a civil engineer, I love these videos with detailed explanations and real-world examples of how this stuff comes together. Too many of us are stuck looking at drawings and specifications, but everything makes much more sense when you can see it actually come together.
Great job ,I have installed hundreds of fire hydrant ,this is. thebest video I have seen
I’ve been a firefighter for 23 years and this is the best explanation of how a hydrant functions I’ve seen. Well done.
Thanks for watching!
As for a plumber, for me it was very interesting content ! Keep up the video , loooks great !!!!
Thank you!
Tons of great info in these videos. Thanks for sharing your work
That adjustable ratchet/wrench was quite interesting. It seems like it would have uses beyond just loosening bolts under water lines.I did a search on google and did not see one sold that works for 3/8 drive sockets.
Yeah it would be. It is made for underground repairs. You can get a few different sized sockets for it, but not many.
What’s the average price you would charge for a new hydrant installation? And I’m in Illinois basically Chicago. We also put auxiliary valves with every hydrant.
We use to make are own duck lugs
In our jurisdiction they recently switched from having us pour a thrust block to just rodding. We then have to put roofing tar on the rodding so it doesn't rust. Wssc is kind of picky with these hydrants
Weep hole looks to be only 1/8"to 1/4"...
Why isn't it larger to allow water to escape from the barrel faster???
That's a pretty standard size. I believe NFPA requires it to drain within 60 minutes.
@@FireSprinklerTech gotcha 👍👍
Just wondering what was wrong with the old hydrants? My guess is that they were leaking by and would not shut off all the way. Probably couldn’t get a rebuild kit because of how old they were. You mentioned it was installed in the 60s. Did you get to keep the old hydrants and add them to your collection? Love your Channel, keep up the good work.
I'm not 100% sure what was wrong, I was just there to help replace it. I'm sure there are not any parts available for those old beasts. I did not keep it, I have one hydrant at home. I don't think my wife would appreciate a second, lol. Thanks for the support.
Are the all-thread rodes stainless steel composition?
Otherwise would rust out over time creating a stress point up against the TEE joint
Zink coated ATR and we spray them with a protective coating.
@@FireSprinklerTech 👍👍
Looks like back in the day on those old hydrants certainly wasn't the case!
you did all that work and didn't put coated T bolts in. that hydrant will last 100 years but those bolts ive seen fail after 5-10 years in acidic soils. we have 40 hydrants to install in the next 8 months we use nothing but blue bolts. we have hydrants from 1880's still in operation.
I’m in Chicago and we use coated bolts on the T bolts but for some reason the shoulder bolts that go onto the top of the mechanical joint to hydrant are always just stainless. How much you guys charging per hydrant to install? I noticed he didn’t buy the hydrant with attached A valve. He always do.
@alanmiller6061 I work for a large municipality and we do all our own installs but we only allow coated bolts or stainless. I've seen non coated one last less than 10 years
I agree, however I'm just the installer so I install what is provided for me to install.
I forgot to mention that NFPA13 6.6.2.5 Requires you to coat all rods and bolts with a bituminous spray coating. I like to use spray undercoating that comes in a spray can.
Please like and subscribe to help the channel grow. Feel free to leave a comment. I would like your input so I can improve the channel. Thanks for watching!
with 2 men how long would you say it takes to complete one?
It all depends on the situation. If you have a good operator doing the excavating and you’re not too deep, don’t have anything in your way, you can do it in about 4 hours. However, I would never plan on that. You could get in a situation where you have to pour a thrust block back. Now you’re talking all day and a return trip after the concrete sets. I would figure all day and exclude pouring a thrust block if you are giving them a price.
@@FireSprinklerTech what would you quote one at?
@@TheCLOGDAWGPlumbing I don’t do the quotes, don’t really know the cost.