I totally agree with you i have multiple of these plane and i just clean them with a 000 steel wool . I love the patina and do not want them to look new. Fantastic video ❤
Hello! Jack planes irons were sharpened with camber or radius on purpose. This helps to work quick with deep shave and have nice surface on backed iron. Check some videos by Christopher Schwarz or Mr Underhill or Paul Sellers Excellent work and well thought technique.
Nice job with that fix at the end, not sure how you knew that was the exact issue but you seemed to diagnose it correctly. Really struggling with my exact same model ogontz sandusky plane that I bought recently.
I'm a complete amateur, but I had a rebuild a wedge recently and used playdough to find the angle. I don't know if it's a good idea or not, but it worked out pretty well in the end.
@@WoodenPlanes I basically treated the throat as a mould. the problem is you can't just fill it up because there are places where things catch. I used a couple thin plastic cards, a little thinner than a credit card, to act as dividers. It's a little hard to explain, but you basically make slices because the plastic cards are dividing up the negative. then you can pull out each piece in order. Figuring out the order and where to slice is the hard part. if I were working on something I really cared about I would use silicone putty(dental putty), which is a bit pricy but captures great detail without ever really staying behind. Also easier to get out without needing to slice as much because it is very flexible. Anyway, you put the slices back together with the cards still in between and you have a negative of the throat of your plane. You can measure whatever you want from there. I knew very little about planes, much less wooden planes, so this was a great learning experience for me. I can try to make a video of how to do it if you are still interested. Might be a while because I don't have a wooden plane at the moment to use as an example.
Great video. I'd think that sanding the sole could leave abrasive particles in the sole that could later scratch your work or dull the blade. And it'd be harder to get the sole flat with a belt sander than another plane. For me, I'll take it in to the 8" jointer (machine) at work and be done with it.
I recently acquired one of these at a flea market in eastern Tennessee. I really went into this completely ignorant.....but the price was “right” and the plane seemed solid....and for what I paid, even if I’m unable to restore it to a usable tool, I’ve lost very little. What I have gained is a lot of knowledge since acquiring it. So thank you for that! What surprised me about mine, is, on closer inspection once I got it home. it has a separate sole....a solid sheet of wood about an eighth inch thick. The screws holding it to the body seem professionally done, with wood plugs covering the screw heads. Are you aware of any manufacturers that installed a separate sole....or was this simply a hack job by the original owner, to preserve or restore a damaged throat? I haven’t started cleaning it yet, but I am able to make out a stamped P8 on one end, and a TFPY 6 on the other. Curiouser and curiouser! I have watched a few of your videos, they are remarkably well done.....and educational.
Sounds like an interesting find! You guessed correctly. The second sole was put on by a user. The sole would get so worn down on planes that were used extensively that some users would re-sole them in order to have a tighter mouth. You may find a makers mark when you clean it but considering how much use it’s had I wouldn’t be surprised if the mark wore off a long time ago. Good luck on cleaning it up!
I built the main staircase in "The Teak House" in Key West FL. When the architect heard I had edge glued a piece onto the skirt board, he freaked! I was told to rush on down to the house - on a Saturday - and meet with him, to get yelled at most probably. The back story is that I used a 16 inch plane on the pieces, before gluing. When I got there the prissy architect was already there. His first words were, "Well, you didn't say it was indiscernible!" That skirt board had 13 miters in it, to join the risers at perfect, sharp miters. The boss told me the board cost $1800, but not to worry as he had bought two boards for the job, as he knew the difficulty of success.
Thanks for the informative videos! For future planes, a scrub plane with a front handle would be of interest. I have a 8 1/2" x 1 3/4" scrub plane with a wooden handle that sticks up on the front that I would like to get in working order. The handle was loose and I was able to remove it. What is the best method for Fastening it back in? I was thinking of using wood glue.
I was told that to flatten the sole i would want the iron in place (retracted so you don't damage that). Does that really matter? Oh, and I prefer to have the plane set up like the Japanese do, with a slight hollow, but that's only a "feels sensible" thing (so it's probably stupid).I really liked the way you showed how the ears are fixed. That is really useful! Thanks a lot!
Could be a lot of things. If you know you're not taking too thick of a cut, check your iron and chipbreaker. You only want a tiny bit of blade extending past the chipbreaker. And you don't want any gaps between the leading edge of the chipbreaker and where it touches the iron. If there's a gap, shavings can get caught in it and that will lead to your mouth getting clogged. This might have more info for you: ua-cam.com/video/EKcMzJ8eXdE/v-deo.html
I don't agree with using epoxy for the repair (too stiff and won't last as long as PVA). Your glue should work fine, though I would have used it before refinishing the plane.
If you like wooden plane videos, you'll love this newsletter: workingwoodenplanes.com No sales, no AI slop. Just good stories about planes.
I liked your little supervisor inspecting the shavings there. Good video.
Rex sent me. I'm already excited.
I totally agree with you i have multiple of these plane and i just clean them with a 000 steel wool . I love the patina and do not want them to look new. Fantastic video ❤
Klasse Restaurierung!!! Gefällt mir sehr Gut!!!
Hello!
Jack planes irons were sharpened with camber or radius on purpose. This helps to work quick with deep shave and have nice surface on backed iron.
Check some videos by Christopher Schwarz or Mr Underhill or Paul Sellers
Excellent work and well thought technique.
Nice job with that fix at the end, not sure how you knew that was the exact issue but you seemed to diagnose it correctly. Really struggling with my exact same model ogontz sandusky plane that I bought recently.
I'm a complete amateur, but I had a rebuild a wedge recently and used playdough to find the angle. I don't know if it's a good idea or not, but it worked out pretty well in the end.
I want to know more! How did you use the playdough?
@@WoodenPlanes I basically treated the throat as a mould. the problem is you can't just fill it up because there are places where things catch. I used a couple thin plastic cards, a little thinner than a credit card, to act as dividers. It's a little hard to explain, but you basically make slices because the plastic cards are dividing up the negative. then you can pull out each piece in order. Figuring out the order and where to slice is the hard part. if I were working on something I really cared about I would use silicone putty(dental putty), which is a bit pricy but captures great detail without ever really staying behind. Also easier to get out without needing to slice as much because it is very flexible.
Anyway, you put the slices back together with the cards still in between and you have a negative of the throat of your plane. You can measure whatever you want from there. I knew very little about planes, much less wooden planes, so this was a great learning experience for me. I can try to make a video of how to do it if you are still interested. Might be a while because I don't have a wooden plane at the moment to use as an example.
Great video.
I'd think that sanding the sole could leave abrasive particles in the sole that could later scratch your work or dull the blade.
And it'd be harder to get the sole flat with a belt sander than another plane.
For me, I'll take it in to the 8" jointer (machine) at work and be done with it.
I recently acquired one of these at a flea market in eastern Tennessee. I really went into this completely ignorant.....but the price was “right” and the plane seemed solid....and for what I paid, even if I’m unable to restore it to a usable tool, I’ve lost very little. What I have gained is a lot of knowledge since acquiring it. So thank you for that! What surprised me about mine, is, on closer inspection once I got it home. it has a separate sole....a solid sheet of wood about an eighth inch thick. The screws holding it to the body seem professionally done, with wood plugs covering the screw heads. Are you aware of any manufacturers that installed a separate sole....or was this simply a hack job by the original owner, to preserve or restore a damaged throat? I haven’t started cleaning it yet, but I am able to make out a stamped P8 on one end, and a TFPY 6 on the other. Curiouser and curiouser! I have watched a few of your videos, they are remarkably well done.....and educational.
Sounds like an interesting find! You guessed correctly. The second sole was put on by a user. The sole would get so worn down on planes that were used extensively that some users would re-sole them in order to have a tighter mouth. You may find a makers mark when you clean it but considering how much use it’s had I wouldn’t be surprised if the mark wore off a long time ago. Good luck on cleaning it up!
I built the main staircase in "The Teak House" in Key West FL. When the architect heard I had edge glued a piece onto the skirt board, he freaked! I was told to rush on down to the house - on a Saturday - and meet with him, to get yelled at most probably. The back story is that I used a 16 inch plane on the pieces, before gluing. When I got there the prissy architect was already there. His first words were, "Well, you didn't say it was indiscernible!" That skirt board had 13 miters in it, to join the risers at perfect, sharp miters. The boss told me the board cost $1800, but not to worry as he had bought two boards for the job, as he knew the difficulty of success.
Thanks for the informative videos! For future planes, a scrub plane with a front handle would be of interest. I have a 8 1/2" x 1 3/4" scrub plane with a wooden handle that sticks up on the front that I would like to get in working order. The handle was loose and I was able to remove it. What is the best method for Fastening it back in? I was thinking of using wood glue.
I agree. Wood glue is your best option
Why did you trim the wedge?
I was told that to flatten the sole i would want the iron in place (retracted so you don't damage that). Does that really matter?
Oh, and I prefer to have the plane set up like the Japanese do, with a slight hollow, but that's only a "feels sensible" thing (so it's probably stupid).I really liked the way you showed how the ears are fixed. That is really useful! Thanks a lot!
You are absolutely correct. I made a mistake in the video by taking it out. Nice catch
I have a 100 year old Sandusky that is similar. The mouth kees getting clogged. Any suggestions?
Could be a lot of things. If you know you're not taking too thick of a cut, check your iron and chipbreaker. You only want a tiny bit of blade extending past the chipbreaker. And you don't want any gaps between the leading edge of the chipbreaker and where it touches the iron. If there's a gap, shavings can get caught in it and that will lead to your mouth getting clogged. This might have more info for you: ua-cam.com/video/EKcMzJ8eXdE/v-deo.html
I don't agree with using epoxy for the repair (too stiff and won't last as long as PVA). Your glue should work fine, though I would have used it before refinishing the plane.
How many times are you gonna say ummm and ahhhhh? Very annoying.
Too much talking, it's really boring