Chester Spier re-works a Scioto Works wooden jointing plane from 130 years ago, that was sent to him by a friend. Cleaning, repairing and sharpening it to make it come back to life.
Thanks for the video. I'm turning an 1890s Mathieson 22 inch jointer made in Scotland into a working bench plane. I picked it up at an antiques market cheap but was in good condition for its age.
I love these old wooden hand planes. i own a jointer, jack , smoother and scrub wooden plane which are all good solid users after being restored. Nice cleanup job.
I just recently got a bunch of different old wood planes mostly fair to good condition from a local auction., i'm slowly cleaning them up and getting them going again, think it's not only been a productive journey, but a very therapeutic one too. Love your vid, got some good tips there. 👌
Thank you so much for your comment. This is a why I do these videos. I am always grateful for helping people to enjoy and understand my passion for these things. Again I thank you.
I saw your video today ,2 9 24, and I have just completed I think an identical plane . But was puzzled about the stamp. Now I have some knnowledge that I was not aware of. Thank for the help and the video.
I pick a box of wooden plane and molding planes a couple of yrs ago. One was a 22 in Ensenore works, I dated it around 1890. It's neat to have a tool that old that works also.
Another excellent presentation Chester, very well done! Great job on referbing a wonderful plane. I have a few of them that I have gone over pretty much as you did. Am a little shy about the linseed oil as I was afraid of turning them too dark but yours looks great! I must say mine do not get a lot of use mostly for display in my shop
Thanks for sharing your restoration journey. That sure looks like a nice user plane. Are you still using it? My plan is to eventually replace the majority of my metal bodied planes with wooden planes like this or with ones that I hope to make at some point. I seem to get better results using wooden planes because for some reason I seem to be able to get a finer adjustment via tapping than by using the adjuster wheel.
More mechanical, less cosmetic. They’re easily beautified with a few passes on the jointer. Whereas getting them to perform correctly is fussy, tricky stuff. I assume my gigantic 26”x 3”x 3” planes need a chip breaker and possibly modern steel blade. Where’s best to procure? I have a Stanley #5 that needs new blades and chip breaker and handle. z SEE
And you skipped the whole part on how the blade is installed. I dismantled mine a year ago for repairs, kinda forgot it and now can't figure out how the blade was installed :(
It’s a bit difficult to do as I bought it over 35 years ago. They are available today on eBay as scraper blades and I am sure woodcraft or Rockwell may sell them as well. You can use an old sawplate or a scraper blade from a Stanley plane as well.
@@bigjarn that is there to supply and end grain plug to hit for removing the wedge. Often these were hit on the front or heel to advance or withdraw the blade, as well.
Thanks for the video. I'm turning an 1890s Mathieson 22 inch jointer made in Scotland into a working bench plane. I picked it up at an antiques market cheap but was in good condition for its age.
Excellant presentation
Your video is exactly what I was looking for. I have a jack plane and try plane that need some work. Thank you for the info!!!
Very glad it helped and that you watched. Please check out some of my other videos and share if you like.
I love these old wooden hand planes. i own a jointer, jack , smoother and scrub wooden plane which are all good solid users after being restored. Nice cleanup job.
Thank you very much. They worked well when made and can still.
I just recently got a bunch of different old wood planes mostly fair to good condition from a local auction., i'm slowly cleaning them up and getting them going again, think it's not only been a productive journey, but a very therapeutic one too.
Love your vid, got some good tips there. 👌
Thank you so much for your comment. This is a why I do these videos. I am always grateful for helping people to enjoy and understand my passion for these things. Again I thank you.
I saw your video today ,2 9 24, and I have just completed I think an identical plane . But was puzzled about the stamp. Now I have some knnowledge that I was not aware of. Thank for the help and the video.
Hey, this is a great video. Lovely information
Thank you for watching and the compliment. Please share this if you can.
Hey chester what a fine job you have done very impressed
Thank you kindly.
Really useful Chester have the same cupping on great grandads, will use a skewed 5 1/2 to do the same flattening process
I pick a box of wooden plane and molding planes a couple of yrs ago. One was a 22 in Ensenore works, I dated it around 1890. It's neat to have a tool that old that works also.
Great information, great delivery too. Thanks for posting. From England.
Another excellent presentation Chester, very well done! Great job on referbing a wonderful plane. I have a few of them that I have gone over pretty much as you did. Am a little shy about the linseed oil as I was afraid of turning them too dark but yours looks great! I must say mine do not get a lot of use mostly for display in my shop
Use Raw Linseed Oil and not the boiled. The boiled linseed will darken it. Thank you for you remarks. I appreciate them
Fine job my friend
Thank you, for the kind words, my friend.
Nice job Chet! I have a few of those on the shelf waiting to be tuned up!
Thank you.
Thank you sir !
Lovely video Chester. Nothing wrong with that plane whatsoever. Beautiful colour too. Wade and Butcher (the iron maker?) are excellent by the way.
You look like a “ Man Of Action” with your all black ensemble and
“Honkin Hardwood Plane” in hand. Take no prisoners Chester!
Thanks for sharing your restoration journey. That sure looks like a nice user plane. Are you still using it?
My plan is to eventually replace the majority of my metal bodied planes with wooden planes like this or with ones that I hope to make at some point. I seem to get better results using wooden planes because for some reason I seem to be able to get a finer adjustment via tapping than by using the adjuster wheel.
I do still use but not too sure for how long I will. My age and health gets in the way. Thank you for your comments. I appreciate them greatly.
More mechanical, less cosmetic. They’re easily beautified with a few passes on the jointer. Whereas getting them to perform correctly is fussy, tricky stuff. I assume my gigantic 26”x 3”x 3” planes need a chip breaker and possibly modern steel blade. Where’s best to procure? I have a Stanley #5 that needs new blades and chip breaker and handle. z SEE
Try looking on a Facebook site called. cihi Can I Have It Now. Weekend online auction.
And you skipped the whole part on how the blade is installed. I dismantled mine a year ago for repairs, kinda forgot it and now can't figure out how the blade was installed :(
What about using a planer? Too drastic?
Is that boiled linseed oil
Raw Linseed oil. The boiled darkens most wood too much and has harmful drying agents.
Would you care to tell me where you bought the scraper tool you used for removing rust from the iron blade?
It’s a bit difficult to do as I bought it over 35 years ago. They are available today on eBay as scraper blades and I am sure woodcraft or Rockwell may sell them as well. You can use an old sawplate or a scraper blade from a Stanley plane as well.
Do you use BLO on the sole as well?
i sometimes do but often enough prefer plain linseed oil without the dryers or just some good butchers wax.. thats the best.
no forward knob???
No, these planes came with no forward knob.
@@ChetSpier why then is there a bung on the forefront
@@bigjarn that is there to supply and end grain plug to hit for removing the wedge. Often these were hit on the front or heel to advance or withdraw the blade, as well.
@@ChetSpier learned something
Are you an ex cop.. ? I just noticed the stickers?