Clamp Knurling Tool, Mounting Bracket, Part One
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- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
- This video covers machining operations on the mounting bracket, from stock selection to drilling and tapping the mounting holes to roughing out and finishing the cut-outs for clamping the mount in the tool post of a lathe.
Hey Tom, We've missed seeing you. Like others I finished my knurling tool a while back. Only had one mishap, I bumped the Y crank with my knee while cutting the mounting bracket so one corner radius was over cut slightly, don't hurt any thing though. A gunsmith friend did the case hardening for me. I used 25 pitch knurls and it makes a beautiful finish without straining the compound. I plan on making another set of knurl holders loaded with perhaps a different pitch or straight pattern knurls.
I've used mine several times making knobs for gunrests I build.
Look forward to the next project. Thanks
Sounds like another success story. :)
Thanks for watching.
Tom
watching you tap the holes with the machine, what is the technique for that, I think i would need a box of taps for that as they would break off in the holes
Brice Glagau
It's called power tapping and as long as you follow a few basic rules, the taps will survive just fine.
ua-cam.com/video/I95YrmVUL18/v-deo.html
Tom
Good to see you back love your videos and I really appreciate you taking the time to make your videos.
Thanks Earl.
Hi Tom, I hope you are enjoying your retirement. I was wondering if you made the part stop attached to the back of your machining vice? If you did, how did you make the thin cuts in the shaft and the rectangular piece for the two shafts? Are the shafts one inch in diameter? Thank you.
I want to know more about synthetic coolant, I have not heard of that. If anyone like to tell me I would appreciate it. He had some in a spray bottle, is that just the same kind as flood coolant?
Wow, I'm new to this channel and I'm really liking what I'm seeing! Is your mill really as huge as it looks at 0:34 or is it just close to the camera?
+W.Co.VIDS
Welcome aboard! There is lots to see and do both here and on my website, tomstechniques.com.
The mill is a typical Bridgeport clone. Not huge, but not small either. The table travel is 35" in X, 12" in Y and 16" in Z.
Tom
Hi You got the job done; but just a few thoughts: De-burring the sides, after you faced the top so that location is precise. After drilling, chamferring the opening prior to tapping,
Not a criticism just part of my training.
Chuck
Yeah, you got me Chuck. I would have done the same had I not been minding the camera and audio recorder and forming the dialog while machining. :b
I understand the reasoning behind chamfering before tapping, but other than with pipe taps, have never found that it makes any difference. I prefer to tap first and then chamfer all of the holes at once.
Tom
thnx tom, nice drawings and technique presentation - the title block, etc.. Ive been doing 3d architectural renderings for at least the past 10 yrs > started out 40 years ago as a student machinist; a few times a year i do machine parts drawings with the cad software just as though they where to be cnc machined because the parts still need to be handled, inspected, burred, etc. > ? a reasonable practice exercise for any cad based operator ask me.
? not understanding why tapped aluminum; assuming the end use knurl tooling, did the draftsman correctly 'tolerance' the clamp's working dimensions? just mentioning it because a friend has v-block lathe tool posts which have insert type cutters invariable close to locked in place - every single time the insert holder needs to be changed the square drive 3/8ths hold down bolts get tossed and quite frequently need to be reverse drilled out of the case hardened tool post threads - that extra bit tighter...
gerald estes
I'm not sure what your question is Gerald. Are you asking why I used aluminum for the body? If so, I used an extra long coarse thread for durability. The aluminum part in this video has tapped holes, but they will only be used once for assembly.
Glad you like the drawings.
Tom
Ahhhhh. The withdrawals are gone--for now.
For me too. :)
I appreciate the frequent reminders to watch cutter rotation and anticipate backlash issues. Also your use of plunge cutting for roughing. Such helpful techniques and to-the-point commentary. Thanks much!
Watching cutter rotation and how it relates to the work is something that just comes natural for me from doing it all these years. Hopefully my reminders will help keep others from finding out the hard way how important it is.
Tom
Tom, great lesson about taking play out of lead screws. I never thought about the reaction forces of the cutter trying to move the part. I'm a newbie home hobbyist so I appreciate the tips and lessons you give throughout your videos. Thanks much for your efforts!
Thanks.
Backlash is one of those things that is always waiting for the opportunity to ruin your day. The sooner you learn how to manage, it the better.
Tom
Nice video. For roughing by plunging, I wonder if using a drill rather than end mill would be good. Fewer plunges would be needed, and drills are much cheaper in case there’s a tool problem.
That would add a setup, but it would certainly work.
Excellent tip concerning the fly-cutter forces and proper work alignment. Great tip for a "newbie" like me. Thanks Tom
Thanks John
When I took metal shop forty some odd years ago I was taught to counter sink the tap holes to a diameter slightly larger than the tap diameter to keep from creating a burr at the surface. I have never seen anybody do this. Why is that?
I prefer to chamfer tapped holes and non tapped holes all at once. You still end up with burr free holes and it takes less time to do it. A lot of things taught in shop class don't make much sense in the real world.
Tom
Glad X2: glad for the video and glad you're busy at work... :>))
Thanks Tom.
Tom, I really like the way explain the small details that others just assume us beginners should already know. I have no doubt that this is probably the most boring & mundane thing for you but it is EXTREMLY valuable & important information for us beginners and we APPRICATE your time and patience that you take! I enjoy watching and learning from such a Master Machinist and Great teacher Thanks again for your time and effort
Thank you, that is good to hear.
Tom
I second the notion! Especially for the safety reminders like how to approach the cut vs how the work is secured, and the pointers for those with lighter duty mills....like I'm hoping to get this summer. Both are especially important when using the milling adapter on my South Bend 9" lathe. It's pretty limited, but useful for some things...and given the limitations I need to pay extra attention when planning setup and when cutting.
Thank you!
-- Mike
Hi Tom,
always nice to have a new video from you, since I'm planing to make something to replace my cheap bump style knurling tool, your design is an option.
There is one thing I would like to ask, I've got a pile of knurling wheels that I can't find the specs, so, if you have a sure way to identify those it would be a great plus in my knowledge bank.
Thanks for great teaching,
Pierre
There is nothing magic about the pitch of knurls. Just divide them into groups of fine, medium and coarse. If you really want to know what the pitch is, divide the circumference of the knurl by the number of teeth and take the reciprocal (1/x). That will give you the number of teeth per inch of the knurl.
Tom
OK I'll check this out, I was also turning the roller on a piece of paper and counting the number of marks per inches of travel...
Sometimes one learn from one the same amount one has used on 20 video's :) Thank you very much for Sharing. Lots of people who are new beginers dont have a big milling machine, they have a small mini mill or maybe slightly bigger, that is why when you are working and in the same time comparing and talking about people with smaller mills Will help alot of people. Well I really learned so much tonight. Please keep the video's coming. I really hope that you get 1000's more subscribers because you certainly deserve it. Good Luck...:)
Thanks for watching
Oh You are more than well come :) I still remember how it was if one wanted to learn in the old days. You Guys on UA-cam are really something that you are willing to share your know how with us. Priceless indeed :) have a great time...:)
Dude I blinked and I missed you tapping those four holes. About a minute and a half it took you, from loading the tap to finishing the last hole. Heck you even threw in a little Tap Magic promo and a nice tip for chucking the tap. Impressive I tell ya. Hey Tom could you please let me know how fast you were spinning that tap? And at approximately what depth do you shut the motor off? Thanks Tom! Gotta go. I can hear you plunging into that chunk of steel, which is one of my all time favorite Techniques.
So just as I went back to the video after typing my comment you comment on the entertainment value of watching you plunge cut that pocket, or lack thereof. I wouldn't worry about that. For one thing, it is a great technique and deserves its time in the spotlight. Plus you shouldn't have to spend your free time editing video when us viewers can travel through time with the SHIFT + > keyboard shortcut. I makes you sound like maybe you had too much coffee but that's cool. On the other hand pressing SHIFT + < makes you sound like you had a few too many of a different kind of beverage :)
The power tapping technique is likely a bit eye opening to someone who has never tried it and I didn't spend time on it in this video because it's already been covered in some of the other ones that I've done. It is an incredible time saver. I generally run the taps at about half the rpm that I would run a drill that size and it doesn't really matter where you reverse the motor as long as the grip in the chuck is light enough to let the tap slip. The real key to power tapping is using a spiral point machine tap and a good tapping fluid (TapMagic for steel and WD-40 for aluminum). It absolutely will not work with an ordinary tap because the chips will plug up the flutes.
Tom
many thanks Tom i used some acetal and it turns lovely, just need some more advice. What is the best method to bore a 50mm rod, i want to bore out 42mm. The length of the bar is 52mm. many thanks Tom
paul maddison
Chuck the stock so at least 52mm is sticking out of the chuck because chucking on a part with walls that thin will distort it. Then just pilot drill and bore to size with a boring bar. Make sure the drills are prepared for drilling plastics as in my video on the same, or they will grab.
Tom
many thanks Tom
Good to see you back! Thanks for another excellent video.
Thanks.
Well explained and informative
Thanks for posting this video! Learned a lot!
Thanks for watching!
Good to see you back, Tom. Thank you for the milling demonstration. I always had disliked those deep cuts but plunging seems to be a lot better. Thanks again.
Plunge milling rules Glenn. :)
Toms Techniques I'll have to perform a few experiments of my own, but how does plunge roughing compare to using a roughing end mill? Welcome back!
Keith Ward
Thanks Keith.
The roughing end mills are faster, but not everyone has them so I thought I'd just show the best way to remove stock quickly using a regular end mill.
Tom
no need to apologies. great to have ha new video in my feed from you.
Thanks.
Thanks for the running dialog and instructional.
Thanks Morris.
:-)
Glad to see your back, I hope to see some more gunsmithing Videos.
Yes, me too. I am getting ready to machine an AR15 receiver from a forging, but I'm also thinking of getting back to the Steven's.
Tom
Toms Techniques
Hi Tom. I vote for the Stevens. There's lots of videos out there already on the AR-15 lower (none on an upper though I can find). I be there with you no matter which you choose. Thanks.
I'm always checking for your new videos and while doing so, I watch the older ones. This was again, a good video. The running verbal instruction really helps by adding new information to my roster of techniques. Thanks for sharing, Tom.
Thanks Jim. I'm glad you appreciate it.
Thanks for putting these up, Tom. You and the rest of the machining community on youtube got me looking for a used lathe and mill now. Cheers from Norway
Excellent. One of my goals here is to make you guys spend your cash on tools and machines. ;)
Tom
All your videos have been a great help. Hope to continue seeing more. Have a lot to learn, can't thank you enough..
Gordon
Thanks Gordon.
I hope to make more of the instructional videos this fall. The tutorials are fun but take too much time to make right now.
Tom
Hey Tom, always a treat to watch your video's. Keep up the great work (when you have time)
Thanks Dennis.
Good to see you again, Tom.
Thanks.
Thank goodness you're still alive. I've been needing my fix for months now! Where can I source a set of A-Z drill bits as well as numerical bits. I found a set through Northern Tool but they're junk. Looking to get a quality set.
Matthew Palmerchuck
I am still alive Matthew and it has not been six months, just two months and four days. :)
McMaster Carr and MSC both carry PTD drill sets, which are very good quality. Brace yourself though, a wire gauge set goes for about $100 and a letter set for $115.
Tom
Thanks for the response! Those prices don't phase me at all. I think that incredibly reasonable actually. I usually use Irwin turbomax bits (29pc for $165) and matco cobalt bits (21pc for $140). The set I got from Northern tool was a 145pc cobalt - coated set that included fractional in 64ths, A-Z and numerical for $120. But they straight suck, bits dulling and chipping on first use. I'll check out your suggestions though and again thanks for tge quick reply! God bless!
does tom ever show the assembled peice?
I never got the last video shot. That will be first on the list when I get back to it.
@@TomsTechniques I'm in the middle of building one and was getting worried about how to properly use one! 😛
Using it is pretty straight forward. The knurler is rigid enough that you can run it back and forth at the start of the knurl until you get the depth right, then just knurl the whole part. Be sure to get knurls with chamfered corners, or do it yourself. Otherwise, they will dig in.