@@doodcody15 I'm pushing 3000 watts 2 it. On stock electrical. If you have a 370 alt I think with one you should be good. My stock alt is probably a 120-130 and it works good.
I have the exact same setup just one more d3400. Haven’t installed the LTOs yet. Waiting to put in the dual alts. So this makes me happy! Awesome vid!!
I can tell you that he isn't joking about the voltage. I know because I have the same car and same exact mechman alternator 240 amp. I'm impressed with this still even after having mine for a few months. My only question is, are you gonna do door speakers or anything? I have alpine type r components in the doors right now. Im planning on doing 3 more d4s 65s in each door bottoms. My bass is great and so is the mids and highs, I'm just addicted to more lol
I am for sure going to upgrade the speakers. But for now I am satisfied. I installed a aftermarket head unit and was able to brighten up the mids/highs considerably. That will be my next video coming out on Friday
Good shit man tour running grounds from front to back may I ask said cause it’s a unibody is that a solid frame compared to most let’s say a Tacoma steel fram with both main rails
Thanks for the info Bro. Your videos are VERY INFORMATIVE & DETAILED. many don't do that. I tip my hat and always thanks again. My question is so once your batteries are fully charged you connect the fuses for the AGM and their all connected right. So from Alternator to Under hood battery to Lithium bank to Amps right? Or between AGM & Lithium bank an isolator is placed. I didn't see one so i must ask.
@@NextLevelCarAudio 😂 i am across the country from you. No worries, i will finish my build eventually. It be fun if we can meet so i can get a demo 😄. Those DC looks and sound awesome. Just love the contents you putted out, a lot of knowledges. Your built so clean too.
I’m thinking about picking up a couple of these to go with an odyssey extreme AGM under hood and an ioxus ultra cap in the rear. I guess the lithium batteries will be fine mixed with the AGM and keeping a charge level that matches the AGM battery’s voltage?
I could list a dozen reasoned Why…. But not worth my time. Me and many others are happy to pay what these cost. Worth it To me. That’s all that matters
Hey thanks for the video. I was curious what you have your sfb set to rms wise? Just to get an idea. I have one as well I’m looking to set it to around 6k rms, I also have a 240 mechman but currently have a Walmart agm. The plan is to get a pair of these AND upgrade the agm after. Also with these do you need to occasionally charge them with the charger? Just asking since you mentioned removing the fuses whenever you want to charge them.
they say it's not good for front main battery but i'm using it and they are great.. (covered in heat resistant foam/aluminum)... i have now this battery with a super cap and a 50amp lithium and another super cap in the back... insane!!!!
I've got a similar setup I'm putting together but getting stumped with the AGM/lithium thing I have a XS Power d4800 under the hook along with excessive amperage 400a alt and the big 3 installed with 1/0g wiring 2 runs of 1/0 from battery to the back where I'll have 3 d4s lto 6.0 1 sundown X18v3 with a salt-6 but my question is, for the 3 ltos, do i wiring them in parallel with everything and be on my way or do i get a isolator, this is where I'm stumped because ive heard alot about rest volts and both batteries mooching off of each other when the car is off... Any advice please and thank you?!?!
I the shop near me hooked up both of D4s batteries in the rear , now D4s said they can work with stock battery up front So my rear batteries are seeing 12.1 and the front is 13.7 What could be the issue ??
Love your videos man. Watching this set up. Made me run some grounds front to back and I have 4 of those d4s lto's going in my build. I have 300a singer alt up front and a oddessy agm up front. I will be running a wolfram 9k and a jp23/4 with 2 runs OFC 1/0 power and a run of 2/0 OFC ground front to back all Gp audio wire. Do you think 4 of those LTO's will be enough?
Look up windy nation welding cable and use their 4/0 welding cable. It's equal in size to 2/0 oversized car audio cable much more durable and cheaper and their 4/0 is rated for 440amps. Whatever cable you run know how many amps it's rated for how many feet of cable and do 2 or 3 runs so it can support what your amps will draw.
So if i ran 6 of these ltos off with 350 amp alt i could expect 4000w from each one? Also i already have 6 xs power d7500s in the rear would it benefit me in anyway to add the LTO 6.0s with the rear batteries?
Thanks for the Video. Does it need to be charged with the D4S lithium charger? Or can i get a budget lithium charger off of amazon? Thats the only thing from keeping me from purchasing one. I would rather put the extra $150 towards a second D4S LTO or the D4S Super cap.
I have 2 taramps 5ks , one 2k taramps four channel and one 880 watt 4 channel. I have a 250 watt alternator and a xs power d3400. Do you think 3 of those lto batteries would be enough for what I have?
Very clean and impressive install.Do you need a battery isolator when running agm with lithium(after they're charged) Appreciate you sharing your experience without the all the hating.
Hey, I got a question that not too many people ask but would this help combat my variable voltage in my vehicle that has a smart alternator? I have a 2023 Volkswagen. Tiguan and it has smart alternator with variable voltage that goes anywhere from 12.5 when when driving and when I let off of the gas it goes up to 14.2.
On the website it says something about disconnecting when not in use so do you have to disconnect every day when the car is off also do you run an Isolator between the AGM and Lithium
I’m looking at this battery but not sure if I need 2 or just 1 I got a 200amp powermaster alternator and a xs power d6500 under hood my amp is deaf bonce aak-4000.1
So if i get that battery, how do i hook it up? Can i remove the power wire from my amp and hook it up to positvie terminal on the LTO, and remove negative on my amp and connect to negative on LTO and just add new power and ground wires from the LTO to amp???????
I want to swap out my main battery for one of these in my Slingshot, I've alreay got a Singer alt, and I'm about at 4500 watts, at a stoplight that voltage is dipping bad with the VMax battery I have in there currently.
Why can’t you just hook them up without the lithium charger? Just let the alternator and agm reserve bank send it power. I’ve heard of trickle charging caps to start but the lto I’m pretty sure it doesn’t need to be charged by the lithium charger. I hooked mine straight up and it charged fine. Did I just get lucky? I have three optima’s with one lto 6 but want one more or the jp40 is a crazy 60% off right now I might get that but jp says in his video to delete the agm for that one so I’m confused.
I got 8k, on my subs , as for my highs , all sq, just orderd my dsp ,for a set of gz uranium 3ways, I noticed you doors , those look like they could take a set of three ways , for a little bit of that sql ,love the show !!
Thanks man. Check my UA-cam short video where i go over install of it. These batteries are no joke man. Legit for real. Check out my last video I uploaded today for brutal demo and voltage stays at 14
@@NextLevelCarAudio, how do they compare with your Limitless Lithium? Which will you choose to run in the future? I think for the price and the performance, they are giving Limitless a run for the money. Great for small car builds. I'd like to see several of them on a big system build. I think they would surprise people and hold their own.
Hey man, im running strapped D4S Jp23s on dual Sundown Audio x12v3s. Jbl club 400 for my highs, Big 3, 280amp Iraggi Alt and a 67 ah, cca =775 XX2 agm battery. How many of those D4S lithium batteries would you recommend? Thanks in advance 🤙🏽
@@lewokejames I'm thinking if I want to go with the Titan under the hood or do a battery delete. I want simplicity so I'll probably just go under the hood
How do you mix the AGM with the lithium batteries without problems? Don't they have different rusting voltages and the AGM usually pull from the lithium's? How do you make those two work?
Nice setup, I was thinking about getting a 2nd battery for my system when I install it. I was gonna change my stock battery to a xs agm with a 320A alt. My amp is a 2k. Can one of those lto be ok in parallel with my agm or should I jus get a smaller agm 2nd battery? Was thinking maybe with a 320A alternator and a xs power 3400 I would be ok. Or should I get a smaller agm you think? Thanks in advance
@Kel’s Life cool I definitely wanna upgrade my stock battery and was thinking of either getting a small agm or maybe the little lto 6.0 lithium. Jus didn't know if it could be done mixing agm and lithium.
I would do a D3400 under the hood with the lto 6.0 in the back and if you currently have agms for the back already then I would wire them all in parallel. That would support your 2k. A high output alternator and the big 3 under the hood would also be super beneficial in unison with everything to really show you what the lto 6.0 can do
@Kel’s Life hey what's up do you think 1 run of 0g from my agm to the D4S LTO would be enough. Was wondering why some people run 2 runs of 0g to the back is it cuse there amp needs to 0g power inputs?
Yes sir! I'm sold on the lto 6.0 after seeing this. My 250a alt and 2 d2400's dips 12.5 full tilt on salt 4 and you running 8k at 14v at idle. I am about to try 48ah headway for the fun of it. Isolator or not?
now I would agree they are decent batteries another thing i would like to know is what were you rising to? cause if your wired down to 1 but rising to 3 or 4 ohms that amp isnt putting out that much power and can still clip because of the higher resting ohm
Well I was expecting to have a certain amount of rise. I always choose my electrical/reserve/lithium based off rated numbers, not what I am clamping after rise. That way there is a pillow of extra power on tap/reserve. In my case, a 8k @ 1ohm needs a bank that can support 8k watts. Hence my 2 LTO’s. If they are only clamping say 6k. Great. That’s why my voltage on all my builds are strong. I don’t try to get to much out of too little like I said in my video.
Got a real question. I have a 250 alt, and running a yellow top agm under hood paired with two d4s LTO 6.0 batteries on an isolator, all 1/0 gauge runs front to back ..Will this be adequate enough electrical to run my newly arrived Salt 8k...Please need your personal opinion. Also thank you for all your help so far with mh my questions.
I have these and let my car sit for a week and a half about and had to have it boosted. I believe the lithium is draining my agm. I usually start it up everyday and have no problems. Would it be wise for isolator or battery delete?
Wow thanks for clearing this up . I was like wow just 6ah but the recharge and discharge rate lile you said two of these is similar to a 40h discharge rate wich is impressive as hell !!! Now I’m going to buy one lol ! What sucks is a charged runs half the cost of one battery almost
Probably not. The chargers are only like 8 amp or 25 amp. Depending on your setup, your amp probably draws at least 5 times that much and if a bigger amp, probably 10 times more.
Nice setup, and batteries. I have a question on a setup. Can I run two of these LTO 6.0’s (in the trunk) powering my audio system, and the XS Power XV Automotive Series (in the hood) for my cars electrical? If so, would it be safe to wire these batteries in Parallel without an isolator? The XS Power XV Automotive is a Lithium Titanate battery. Or would you recommend me using AGM XS for hood use?
If you go to D4S website they have a TON of specs and recommendations on them. I’m guessing yes, because they are designed to work with most battery types. I’d look into it more tho.
Built a 32ah headway bank about a year ago still running good but not as good as the first day I built it. How comparable are these in terms of power if you know?
I have not personally ran headway so can’t say from personal experience. Would be fun to run side by side tests of all the lithium out there to see how they all compare with each other
@@NextLevelCarAudio Definitely. As comparing lithium batteries is confusing makes it harder to choose the best for an application. Would have went with the 6.0 last year myself but at the time there was little testing and comparisons online. Many of my questions on the product went unanswered from various people.
I live in canada and run 1 d4s lto inline with a xspower s925 and was wondering would a d925 be more ore less beneficial for starting in COLD weather and know the d925 will be better for discharge rate. Any advice is greatly appreciated 🙏
Question ❓. Is it better to run battery and ground directly from the alternator to the amps bypassed the battery (s) or go from the alternator to the battery then AMPS? I ask because sometimes I see vids power and ground going to a fuse block then straight to the amp or AMPS or vise versa.
Hey I have a question for you. I bought a SX POWER D3400 battery for my Acura TL 3.2L . Will this battery work in my car. Please let me know. Thanks brother.
Wow your voltage was pretty solid I might grab me one I'm running an taramps smart 3k and im Dropping into low 12s high 11s 😬 stock 90 amp alt with 1 yellow top optima agm and 2 lead acid batteries and 4 runs of 4gauge cca 😭😭 just ordered an 320 amp alt from autotech engineering and imma grab one of these too with some knukonceptz 1/0 ofc that should help out alot
Just make sure you have a strong under hood battery. These are designed to be supplemental batteries. Not main/starting batteries. But work awesome with Under hood AGM’s. No isolators needed
@@NextLevelCarAudio I have a Yellow optima under the hood and a 375 farad ioxus supercap in the back. Currently stock alt. I’ve tried a 390 amp gp alternator and it fried twice within a matter of weeks for some reason. Meanwhile stock is fine just weak.
Something else to note, these D4S batteries do depend greatly on alternator output. If your running stick alt you are not going to get out of them what a high output alt would give you.
When i start my car, the voltage is always 14.5 to 14.6. The alternator is 120 amp. Is 14.5 or 14.6 not to much for these lithium batteries? I only need 2500 to 4000 wat max for my speakers and sub. I have a Varta 52ah battery, and for some strange reason no voltage drop problems. I have a dc audio 3.5k and a rf fosgate t600-4. Four mtx two way composets and two 12 inch 700 watt rms dayton audio 4 ohm dvc subs wired to 1 ohm. It sounds great and goes pretty loud. But i am thinking about building a spl or sqpl box with two 12 inch 1500 watt rms spl drivers. Now the voltage always stays above 14.1, but i think i need a lithium battery before upgrading the subwoofer, but also not want to turn my car in a torch😅
Hey bro. How much clip light flashing is okay? I have the jp23 amplifier and right when it starts to hit like I want that damn light starts flashing and I turn it down afraid of damaging something. Thank you!
ive got a 240 amp js alt, an xpower agm, one d4s lto, with 1/0 copper runs, big 5, etc, running a taramps smart3bass, pushing 2 u series 12s.. im installing now.. will i be alright with one lto, or should i add a second.. and if i had 2, would i have enough power to support a smart5kbass?? from what im seeing from your build, i should be fine, and upgrading to a 5k, is within reach, if i have 2 ltos...
I have a clip light on my knob to so I’m assuming if it’s lit up solid that means I’m hard clipping and when it’s flashes I’m soft clipping?? Help me understand lol this my first time ever having a clipping indicator on my bass knob
No isolator. That’s whats great about these if you look at the manufactures specs on the D4S website. If can run them inline with anything. No problems at all
I need to get these agms out my car. I got a 300a alt, and when I just start to clip, my voltage drops significantly. I got a 64ah headway bank for it tho. Just been scared to use it🤷♂️
@@NextLevelCarAudio I think a great video would be to do same test simply with just the alt ground to rear wire was disconnected! I've always wanted to see the difference.
@@AKEYFACTOR I did all the research enought to build one (it's on my UA-cam) but I guess what I'm nervous about is putting it in spare tire area with a 250lb box on top of it that I use my crane at work to remove lol. I did get a 8s monitor to monitor the cells.
I'm going to upgrade to a 5k amp currently have a 250 mechman and D3400 under the hood of my Yukon, do you think an LTO 6 would be a better choice over another D3400?
5k would honestly be pushing it, since with a 250 amp alt you can expect 4k watt support from it. 2 would be best. And you would never have to worry about voltage drop at full tilt ever again.
I was looking at getting a JP40 but the site states you can't use it with any other battery. That shit confuses me and aren't these just a smaller version? Any advice anyone? Am I totally wrong about the JP40 model or the LTO 6 model?
I didn't get this battery, but I got a XS power S5 LTO to power my entire car and system. I have a singer 240 amp 14.8v alternator. I have a taramps smart 3 bass amp and a pair of Resilient sound 12 golds. Big four done all 1/0 gauge wire. The car is a 2005 Honda accord four-cylinder and at full tilt my voltage goes down to 13.8! Basically, we have almost the same set up except mine is half the power. How am I dropping 1 full volt and you're barely dropping any?
@@NextLevelCarAudio They can't be better than the XS Power lithium's, probably on par with them though. Although S5 put out a little bit more power and cost more. How many batteries are you running in your set up? You have an 8k amp right?
@@NextLevelCarAudio yeah that might explain it. You have three batteries. What do you charge your lithium's with? Does it have to be lithium titanate specific charger?
I have the exact same engine, the 2.5L and I was wondering where did you put the 2 grounds thats going to the engine block to the back to the lithium’s . You never showed it in your videos. You only showed the the battery negative going to to engine, and body of the car and also the alternator negative going straight back to the lithium.
@@NextLevelCarAudio Which is coming straight from the engine block right? I know you got one for sure going from Alternator negative case to distro block. And the other 2 negative are off the engine right. Im sorry asking again . Im just confused about the other 2 grounds that you have running from front to back. You didn’t show that part. You only showed the alternator case ground going straight to the distro block.
Hey man I had a problem with retaining the steering wheel controls in this car. I have the right adapter. If you did this can you let me know how. I'd appreciate it
if you had to choose this lithium battery or an xp3000 which would you choose? I have a 390 amp alternator, xs power d3400r up front. just asking your opinion
With that much alternator power, and the fact you have an AGM under hood for reserve, I’d for sure get a LTO. Will sort support way more wattage than another AGM would
So naturally I bought a second d3400 for the back. Wanted 2 exact same batteries. I had the sfb5000 but dumped it for JP43. It's definitely a power hungry amp at max volume. I still want one of these Lto's. If I put in back next to my d3400 just run a wire from positive on the lto 6 to positive on d3400 also neg to neg right ? I use dual runs of 1/0. I should also use dual runs with this lto as well correct? I really enjoy your videos man. You've helped me out a ton!
First a question, is that volt meter at the front battery or at the amp? Second, if that's the actual voltage at the amp those batteries aren't doing a darn thing for you as you will not access reserve power until you reach their resting voltage so either your volt meter is wrong or your rise is insane because at that voltage you are on all alternator and 0 battery assistance. Very clean setup though and love the DC subs!
Very nice man ⚡️💪🏽
Thanks!
@@NextLevelCarAudio I have a 45ah cMAX bank
Jp get this man some discounts on some d4s stuff he is taking some haters off your hands and showing them facts.
The HOE is sick. Love it. Never too big of a build. And that bank, just sick.
@@OnlySubzz He needs an affiliate link cause I'm about to buy two of these
I think these are decent. Jp has put out some good products that simply are hard to beat for what they do at the price point they are at.
Yeah, there quality and price are very affordable. That's what I really like that JP is doing.
Decent? They seem sikk compared to other lithiums
I've got one for my build and it's awesome. Pushing a sundown X12V3 on a stock electrical system and it holds Voltage real good
Nice!
What rms are you running to sub? Working on one xv3 12 on 3200rms so debating on one our two of these with my 370a alt. Thanks in advance.
@@doodcody15 I'm pushing 3000 watts 2 it. On stock electrical. If you have a 370 alt I think with one you should be good. My stock alt is probably a 120-130 and it works good.
Getting a x12v3 soon going to only be running around 1500 watts till I get a stronger amp. does it hold voltage even at full tilt ?
@@doodcody15370 amp alt seems a bit overkill for only 3000 watts
I have the exact same setup just one more d3400. Haven’t installed the LTOs yet. Waiting to put in the dual alts. So this makes me happy! Awesome vid!!
You will definitely be satisfied with them!
I can tell you that he isn't joking about the voltage. I know because I have the same car and same exact mechman alternator 240 amp. I'm impressed with this still even after having mine for a few months. My only question is, are you gonna do door speakers or anything? I have alpine type r components in the doors right now. Im planning on doing 3 more d4s 65s in each door bottoms. My bass is great and so is the mids and highs, I'm just addicted to more lol
I am for sure going to upgrade the speakers. But for now I am satisfied. I installed a aftermarket head unit and was able to brighten up the mids/highs considerably. That will be my next video coming out on Friday
@@NextLevelCarAudio nice. I know the factory speakers (pioneers) are ok in this car but I also know how me and you both like to upgrade everything lol
Good shit man tour running grounds from front to back may I ask said cause it’s a unibody is that a solid frame compared to most let’s say a Tacoma steel fram with both main rails
Next week a video is coming out on full walkthrough :) thanks
Can you hook this up and use the vehicle to charge it up prior to use? Or is it only possible with a lithium charger?
Thanks for the info Bro. Your videos are VERY INFORMATIVE & DETAILED. many don't do that. I tip my hat and always thanks again. My question is so once your batteries are fully charged you connect the fuses for the AGM and their all connected right. So from Alternator to Under hood battery to Lithium bank to Amps right? Or between AGM & Lithium bank an isolator is placed. I didn't see one so i must ask.
i don’t know how many times i watch this video, your build inspire me. I am still saving up, time is hard 😅
Awesome man. Thanks for supporting the channel. What state are you located? I may be able to help out :)
@@NextLevelCarAudio i am in Pa
Shoot, that’s far. Was hoping you were closer. I’m in Washington state.
@@NextLevelCarAudio 😂 i am across the country from you. No worries, i will finish my build eventually. It be fun if we can meet so i can get a demo 😄. Those DC looks and sound awesome. Just love the contents you putted out, a lot of knowledges. Your built so clean too.
Thanks man!
How often do you need to charge them? I thought a high output alt would be all you need since it’s wired parallel. Am I wrong?
No your correct, he only needed to charge them before installing
👀 Wow thats impressive
Can these be mix with other lithium Battery?
I’m thinking about picking up a couple of these to go with an odyssey extreme AGM under hood and an ioxus ultra cap in the rear. I guess the lithium batteries will be fine mixed with the AGM and keeping a charge level that matches the AGM battery’s voltage?
My question is this .
What type of alternator?
And under the hood battery?
How many of the 6.0 do you have?
That’s an awesome build bro, preforms good on camera but I bet even better in person I’m planning on getting a couple of those LTO-6.0 for my build.
Hell yeah!
but why you can get so much more for sooo much less these are overpriced af
I could list a dozen reasoned Why…. But not worth my time. Me and many others are happy to pay what these cost. Worth it To me. That’s all that matters
I watched the whole video so I see what you have .. amazing performance.. and nice craftsmanship
Do those have low voltage and over charging protection?
Hey thanks for the video. I was curious what you have your sfb set to rms wise? Just to get an idea. I have one as well I’m looking to set it to around 6k rms, I also have a 240 mechman but currently have a Walmart agm. The plan is to get a pair of these AND upgrade the agm after. Also with these do you need to occasionally charge them with the charger? Just asking since you mentioned removing the fuses whenever you want to charge them.
No need to occasionally charge. I have mines set to max unclipped gain. So pushing 8k
they say it's not good for front main battery but i'm using it and they are great.. (covered in heat resistant foam/aluminum)... i have now this battery with a super cap and a 50amp lithium and another super cap in the back... insane!!!!
I've got a similar setup I'm putting together but getting stumped with the AGM/lithium thing
I have a XS Power d4800 under the hook along with excessive amperage 400a alt and the big 3 installed with 1/0g wiring
2 runs of 1/0 from battery to the back where I'll have 3 d4s lto 6.0
1 sundown X18v3 with a salt-6 but my question is, for the 3 ltos, do i wiring them in parallel with everything and be on my way or do i get a isolator, this is where I'm stumped because ive heard alot about rest volts and both batteries mooching off of each other when the car is off... Any advice please and thank you?!?!
I the shop near me hooked up both of D4s batteries in the rear , now D4s said they can work with stock battery up front
So my rear batteries are seeing 12.1 and the front is 13.7
What could be the issue ??
I had this issue and charged them separately and started all over with full copper wires and the issue went away
Because the d4s batt is shit
Love your videos man. Watching this set up. Made me run some grounds front to back and I have 4 of those d4s lto's going in my build. I have 300a singer alt up front and a oddessy agm up front. I will be running a wolfram 9k and a jp23/4 with 2 runs OFC 1/0 power and a run of 2/0 OFC ground front to back all Gp audio wire. Do you think 4 of those LTO's will be enough?
Enough for what? What amps are you running what ohm on subs and what wire 0, 2/0 CCA or copper?
Look up windy nation welding cable and use their 4/0 welding cable. It's equal in size to 2/0 oversized car audio cable much more durable and cheaper and their 4/0 is rated for 440amps. Whatever cable you run know how many amps it's rated for how many feet of cable and do 2 or 3 runs so it can support what your amps will draw.
I continue to learn great things from your videos 👏🏻👏🏻
Awesome. Thanks
So if i ran 6 of these ltos off with 350 amp alt i could expect 4000w from each one? Also i already have 6 xs power d7500s in the rear would it benefit me in anyway to add the LTO 6.0s with the rear batteries?
Thanks for the Video. Does it need to be charged with the D4S lithium charger? Or can i get a budget lithium charger off of amazon? Thats the only thing from keeping me from purchasing one. I would rather put the extra $150 towards a second D4S LTO or the D4S Super cap.
As long as it’s rated to charge an LTO type lithium it’s fine.
I have 2 taramps 5ks , one 2k taramps four channel and one 880 watt 4 channel. I have a 250 watt alternator and a xs power d3400. Do you think 3 of those lto batteries would be enough for what I have?
Very clean and impressive install.Do you need a battery isolator when running agm with lithium(after they're charged) Appreciate you sharing your experience without the all the hating.
These Lithium from D4S do not need isolators! :)
Nope they are compatible with agm and regular batts so no isolator is needed..just charge'em and run'em...
@@cadillacdon6935 thanks for the info.
Yo7 need one if using acid batterybup front I was told by D4S..get solenoid an 0 gauge amp kit
So its ok to clip the system as long as your voltage is steady? Hope all is well TIA
Hey, I got a question that not too many people ask but would this help combat my variable voltage in my vehicle that has a smart alternator? I have a 2023 Volkswagen. Tiguan and it has smart alternator with variable voltage that goes anywhere from 12.5 when when driving and when I let off of the gas it goes up to 14.2.
Do you need to run a ground from the front of the vehicle to the back? Or can you use the existing ground from the back of the battery?
On the website it says something about disconnecting when not in use so do you have to disconnect every day when the car is off also do you run an Isolator between the AGM and Lithium
Are u running the Agm straight to lithium?? wouldn’t that mix chemicals?
I’m looking at this battery but not sure if I need 2 or just 1 I got a 200amp powermaster alternator and a xs power d6500 under hood my amp is deaf bonce aak-4000.1
So if i get that battery, how do i hook it up? Can i remove the power wire from my amp and hook it up to positvie terminal on the LTO, and remove negative on my amp and connect to negative on LTO and just add new power and ground wires from the LTO to amp???????
Can I run one of the D4S 6.0 with stock electrical on an amp Rockford T-1500BDCP? 2021 Honda Civic.
I want to swap out my main battery for one of these in my Slingshot, I've alreay got a Singer alt, and I'm about at 4500 watts, at a stoplight that voltage is dipping bad with the VMax battery I have in there currently.
Nicely done,,, if you don't mind me asking what state do you live in
Washington. Olympia area
I am going to get one for my next build and do you a isolator between the AMG and the LTO ? Thanks
Nope. That’s what is great about these. No isolated needed per D4S.
Why can’t you just hook them up without the lithium charger? Just let the alternator and agm reserve bank send it power. I’ve heard of trickle charging caps to start but the lto I’m pretty sure it doesn’t need to be charged by the lithium charger. I hooked mine straight up and it charged fine. Did I just get lucky? I have three optima’s with one lto 6 but want one more or the jp40 is a crazy 60% off right now I might get that but jp says in his video to delete the agm for that one so I’m confused.
I got 8k, on my subs , as for my highs , all sq, just orderd my dsp ,for a set of gz uranium 3ways, I noticed you doors , those look like they could take a set of three ways , for a little bit of that sql ,love the show !!
They are pretty good from the factory. But would love to get a 3 way setup down the road for sure
Volt readout on the clock is dope. I might need to try these batteries
Thanks man. Check my UA-cam short video where i go over install of it. These batteries are no joke man. Legit for real. Check out my last video I uploaded today for brutal demo and voltage stays at 14
Nicely done. I love a clean install that performs.
Thanks!
@@NextLevelCarAudio, how do they compare with your Limitless Lithium? Which will you choose to run in the future? I think for the price and the performance, they are giving Limitless a run for the money. Great for small car builds. I'd like to see several of them on a big system build. I think they would surprise people and hold their own.
I honestly am only going to be running these exclusively. Perform beyond expectations!
@@NextLevelCarAudio, that's what I figured. Thanks for your reply. I'm sold also.
Hey man, im running strapped D4S Jp23s on dual Sundown Audio x12v3s. Jbl club 400 for my highs, Big 3, 280amp Iraggi Alt and a 67 ah, cca =775 XX2 agm battery. How many of those D4S lithium batteries would you recommend? Thanks in advance 🤙🏽
I would do 2 honestly. Just to make sure your not trying to get to much out of too little. Hell yeah
@@NextLevelCarAudio thank you
If I hadn't bought my two Titan 8 already these would have been my second choice no doubt
Hell yeah, they are beast!
Are you running the titan under the hood. I'm thinking about buying one under hood with stock 120 alternator to support 2000 watts
@@rmyrie5963 nah they're in the trunk
@@lewokejames I'm thinking if I want to go with the Titan under the hood or do a battery delete. I want simplicity so I'll probably just go under the hood
How do you mix the AGM with the lithium batteries without problems? Don't they have different rusting voltages and the AGM usually pull from the lithium's? How do you make those two work?
Just direct connect in parallel. No issues. These designed specifically for that purpose. They are in my daily nonissues at all
Nice setup, I was thinking about getting a 2nd battery for my system when I install it. I was gonna change my stock battery to a xs agm with a 320A alt. My amp is a 2k. Can one of those lto be ok in parallel with my agm or should I jus get a smaller agm 2nd battery? Was thinking maybe with a 320A alternator and a xs power 3400 I would be ok. Or should I get a smaller agm you think? Thanks in advance
Yes you could run it parallel with agm no problem
@Kel’s Life cool I definitely wanna upgrade my stock battery and was thinking of either getting a small agm or maybe the little lto 6.0 lithium. Jus didn't know if it could be done mixing agm and lithium.
I would do a D3400 under the hood with the lto 6.0 in the back and if you currently have agms for the back already then I would wire them all in parallel. That would support your 2k. A high output alternator and the big 3 under the hood would also be super beneficial in unison with everything to really show you what the lto 6.0 can do
@Kel’s Life hey what's up do you think 1 run of 0g from my agm to the D4S LTO would be enough. Was wondering why some people run 2 runs of 0g to the back is it cuse there amp needs to 0g power inputs?
I've been on the fence about these for a minute now. Thinking about running one with sms220agm and xs5100agm to handle 8k
Yes sir! I'm sold on the lto 6.0 after seeing this. My 250a alt and 2 d2400's dips 12.5 full tilt on salt 4 and you running 8k at 14v at idle. I am about to try 48ah headway for the fun of it. Isolator or not?
If running the headway. Yes, Isolator. These D4S no need isolator. Another perk
@@NextLevelCarAudio I thought I read the lto 6.0 didn't need an isolator, that is perk. NextLevel for sure 😉
They don’t need an isolator. Simply a typo. Fixed :)
@@NextLevelCarAudio yes sir no judgment here lol loved watching the build come together
now I would agree they are decent batteries another thing i would like to know is what were you rising to? cause if your wired down to 1 but rising to 3 or 4 ohms that amp isnt putting out that much power and can still clip because of the higher resting ohm
Well I was expecting to have a certain amount of rise. I always choose my electrical/reserve/lithium based off rated numbers, not what I am clamping after rise. That way there is a pillow of extra power on tap/reserve. In my case, a 8k @ 1ohm needs a bank that can support 8k watts. Hence my 2 LTO’s. If they are only clamping say 6k. Great. That’s why my voltage on all my builds are strong. I don’t try to get to much out of too little like I said in my video.
Got a real question. I have a 250 alt, and running a yellow top agm under hood paired with two d4s LTO 6.0 batteries on an isolator, all 1/0 gauge runs front to back ..Will this be adequate enough electrical to run my newly arrived Salt 8k...Please need your personal opinion. Also thank you for all your help so far with mh my questions.
How it work?
I have these and let my car sit for a week and a half about and had to have it boosted. I believe the lithium is draining my agm. I usually start it up everyday and have no problems. Would it be wise for isolator or battery delete?
Hmmm. Not supposed to need an isolator. I’ve never had an issue with these draining my AGM. Isolator would fix the issue tho
Wow thanks for clearing this up . I was like wow just 6ah but the recharge and discharge rate lile you said two of these is similar to a 40h discharge rate wich is impressive as hell !!! Now I’m going to buy one lol ! What sucks is a charged runs half the cost of one battery almost
@NextLevelCarAudio - Let's say i have the engine off and i have the lithium charger plugged in could I have it that way and play for a 12 hour period?
Probably not. The chargers are only like 8 amp or 25 amp. Depending on your setup, your amp probably draws at least 5 times that much and if a bigger amp, probably 10 times more.
Nice setup, and batteries. I have a question on a setup. Can I run two of these LTO 6.0’s (in the trunk) powering my audio system, and the XS Power XV Automotive Series (in the hood) for my cars electrical? If so, would it be safe to wire these batteries in Parallel without an isolator? The XS Power XV Automotive is a Lithium Titanate battery. Or would you recommend me using AGM XS for hood use?
If you go to D4S website they have a TON of specs and recommendations on them. I’m guessing yes, because they are designed to work with most battery types. I’d look into it more tho.
@@NextLevelCarAudio okay for sure thanks. How’s the AGM running with your lithium batteries? Did you use an isolator?
Nope. Isolator not needed. Runs perfect with no issues whatsoever
@@NextLevelCarAudio that’s good to hear. Thanks for the info 👍🏼. Have a good 4th
how many batteries do I need for a car with a down4sound jp33 and down4sound jp95?
I’ve definitely have been on the fence about this battery but now I’m sold
They are legit. No joke man
Sold also just bought 3 of them ..let's go Bass on fam
So would a 400 amp alt be too much for this battery?
Built a 32ah headway bank about a year ago still running good but not as good as the first day I built it. How comparable are these in terms of power if you know?
I have not personally ran headway so can’t say from personal experience. Would be fun to run side by side tests of all the lithium out there to see how they all compare with each other
@@NextLevelCarAudio Definitely. As comparing lithium batteries is confusing makes it harder to choose the best for an application. Would have went with the 6.0 last year myself but at the time there was little testing and comparisons online. Many of my questions on the product went unanswered from various people.
That’s true. Not many real world tests on them. So felt I needed to make this video
Can I ground my stock battery, amp, and this lithium battery all in the same spot???
I live in canada and run 1 d4s lto inline with a xspower s925 and was wondering would a d925 be more ore less beneficial for starting in COLD weather and know the d925 will be better for discharge rate. Any advice is greatly appreciated 🙏
Honestly, either way you should be fine. Both solid batteries.
Question ❓. Is it better to run battery and ground directly from the alternator to the amps bypassed the battery (s) or go from the alternator to the battery then AMPS? I ask because sometimes I see vids power and ground going to a fuse block then straight to the amp or AMPS or vise versa.
It’s honestly preference. Everything is connected anyway. If have the big -3 done, then your good to go either way
What did you mount yours with? Im installing it in my trunk and i have no idea how to mount it. Thanks in advance.
Just pressure mounted with small L brackets from Home Depot
Ordering 2 of these very soon I'm running a atom 7.5k 300 amp alternator
Hey I have a question for you. I bought a SX POWER D3400 battery for my Acura TL 3.2L . Will this battery work in my car. Please let me know. Thanks brother.
Xspower D3400
Wow your voltage was pretty solid I might grab me one I'm running an taramps smart 3k and im Dropping into low 12s high 11s 😬 stock 90 amp alt with 1 yellow top optima agm and 2 lead acid batteries and 4 runs of 4gauge cca 😭😭 just ordered an 320 amp alt from autotech engineering and imma grab one of these too with some knukonceptz 1/0 ofc that should help out alot
Loved the video bro that setup is Beating 💪🏼💪🏼🔥🔥🔥🔥 and really clean
For sure man. You will be impressed!!!
Do they get warm? I'll be hooking one up to a taramp 3k watt amp and a 2k watt 4 channel watt. With a 370 amp alternator.
Not at all :)
If you had to go with a few of these vs cyber 12k what would be your choice? I’m debating between the two. If the 12k ever comes back in stock…
My hummer Build has 2 cyber 12k’s. 3 of these would be on par with that, 4 of these would destroy the 2 cybers. I know because I have 2 in my hummer
@@NextLevelCarAudio Wow, thought it’d take at least 6 to match up to just one. I think you’ve made up my mind, D4S it is. Much appreciated.
Just make sure you have a strong under hood battery. These are designed to be supplemental batteries. Not main/starting batteries. But work awesome with Under hood AGM’s. No isolators needed
@@NextLevelCarAudio I have a Yellow optima under the hood and a 375 farad ioxus supercap in the back. Currently stock alt. I’ve tried a 390 amp gp alternator and it fried twice within a matter of weeks for some reason. Meanwhile stock is fine just weak.
Something else to note, these D4S batteries do depend greatly on alternator output. If your running stick alt you are not going to get out of them what a high output alt would give you.
where did you get that voltmeter gauge ?
Hi Bro, can this use with the XS POWER Titan S5 lithium battery together? Thanks
When i start my car, the voltage is always 14.5 to 14.6. The alternator is 120 amp. Is 14.5 or 14.6 not to much for these lithium batteries? I only need 2500 to 4000 wat max for my speakers and sub. I have a Varta 52ah battery, and for some strange reason no voltage drop problems. I have a dc audio 3.5k and a rf fosgate t600-4. Four mtx two way composets and two 12 inch 700 watt rms dayton audio 4 ohm dvc subs wired to 1 ohm. It sounds great and goes pretty loud. But i am thinking about building a spl or sqpl box with two 12 inch 1500 watt rms spl drivers. Now the voltage always stays above 14.1, but i think i need a lithium battery before upgrading the subwoofer, but also not want to turn my car in a torch😅
These batteries, tho can handle it…. Were designed for lower voltages (high 13’s/low 14’s.) mid 14’s is pretty high and may shorten the life of them
Hey bro. How much clip light flashing is okay? I have the jp23 amplifier and right when it starts to hit like I want that damn light starts flashing and I turn it down afraid of damaging something. Thank you!
If it briefly blinks. That’s soft clipping. Not really a big deal. It’s when the light comes on and stays on that’s the problem.
Did you install and battery isolator? I was told these don’t have to have a isolator between this an a agm
No isolator needed.
Got a question, I got the battery haven’t hooked up yet I didn’t get the lithium charger, can it just charge up with my alt? Got a auto tech 320
Not a good idea, the voltage differential will cause potential damage.
ive got a 240 amp js alt, an xpower agm, one d4s lto, with 1/0 copper runs, big 5, etc, running a taramps smart3bass, pushing 2 u series 12s.. im installing now..
will i be alright with one lto, or should i add a second.. and if i had 2, would i have enough power to support a smart5kbass??
from what im seeing from your build, i should be fine, and upgrading to a 5k, is within reach, if i have 2 ltos...
One will be perfect for a 3k, 2 would be more than enough for the 5k. You won’t be disappointed
Did I understand you correctly 3 runs of negative and 2 runs positive? Just wondering because I have a unibody.
Yes. That’s correct :) I could have just done 2 runs of negative vs 3. But did 3 in case I added an extra power wire run in the future
I have a clip light on my knob to so I’m assuming if it’s lit up solid that means I’m hard clipping and when it’s flashes I’m soft clipping?? Help me understand lol this my first time ever having a clipping indicator on my bass knob
That is pretty much spot on
Do you have both lithium 6.0 connected directly to your agm battery or you using a battery isolator?
No isolator. That’s whats great about these if you look at the manufactures specs on the D4S website. If can run them inline with anything. No problems at all
Can you charge the lithium and the AGM at 14.8ish? Id like to do a similar setup but add a resistor on the sense wire to up voltage a bit.
That’s a little too high for the LTO’s I think. Not sure tho.
I need to get these agms out my car. I got a 300a alt, and when I just start to clip, my voltage drops significantly. I got a 64ah headway bank for it tho. Just been scared to use it🤷♂️
Lithium is the ticket for sure. These are incredible for the size.
Nothing to be scared of. Do a bit of research and you’ll be fine. Take notes, make sure it’s charged before you hook it up.
I was nervous about using headways at first but I haven't had any problems yet. I only have 2500 watts and a short commute though
@@NextLevelCarAudio I think a great video would be to do same test simply with just the alt ground to rear wire was disconnected! I've always wanted to see the difference.
@@AKEYFACTOR I did all the research enought to build one (it's on my UA-cam) but I guess what I'm nervous about is putting it in spare tire area with a 250lb box on top of it that I use my crane at work to remove lol. I did get a 8s monitor to monitor the cells.
Is your 250 alt pcm controlled at factory voltage or did u change it
Nope, all factory
BEST BASS INTRO ON UA-cam GODSPEED ✌️. DJ BYRDMAN
Thanks!
Agreed!
I'm going to upgrade to a 5k amp currently have a 250 mechman and D3400 under the hood of my Yukon, do you think an LTO 6 would be a better choice over another D3400?
5k would honestly be pushing it, since with a 250 amp alt you can expect 4k watt support from it. 2 would be best. And you would never have to worry about voltage drop at full tilt ever again.
@@NextLevelCarAudio Thank you! Yea I have to say that 0.1v drop also turned me into a believer. Thanks for the awesome and very informative content!
Thanks :)
I was looking at getting a JP40 but the site states you can't use it with any other battery. That shit confuses me and aren't these just a smaller version? Any advice anyone? Am I totally wrong about the JP40 model or the LTO 6 model?
LTO 6 can be used with any battery chemistry as per the description.
That is a great build 👏 the voltage ⚡️ its solid congrats man
Thanks! Heck yeah :)
I didn't get this battery, but I got a XS power S5 LTO to power my entire car and system. I have a singer 240 amp 14.8v alternator. I have a taramps smart 3 bass amp and a pair of Resilient sound 12 golds. Big four done all 1/0 gauge wire. The car is a 2005 Honda accord four-cylinder and at full tilt my voltage goes down to 13.8! Basically, we have almost the same set up except mine is half the power. How am I dropping 1 full volt and you're barely dropping any?
Not sure man. Your setup sounds legit. These D4S batteries are the real deal tho
@@NextLevelCarAudio They can't be better than the XS Power lithium's, probably on par with them though. Although S5 put out a little bit more power and cost more.
How many batteries are you running in your set up? You have an 8k amp right?
Yep, running 2 D4S 6.0’s in the rear and a xs3400 under hood. Yes 8k amp
@@NextLevelCarAudio yeah that might explain it. You have three batteries. What do you charge your lithium's with? Does it have to be lithium titanate specific charger?
Dumb question but how often do u have to charge these
I have the exact same engine, the 2.5L and I was wondering where did you put the 2 grounds thats going to the engine block to the back to the lithium’s . You never showed it in your videos. You only showed the the battery negative going to to engine, and body of the car and also the alternator negative going straight back to the lithium.
They went to a negative rear distro block that is shared with rear battery negative and negative amp input.
@@NextLevelCarAudio Which is coming straight from the engine block right? I know you got one for sure going from Alternator negative case to distro block. And the other 2 negative are off the engine right. Im sorry asking again . Im just confused about the other 2 grounds that you have running from front to back. You didn’t show that part. You only showed the alternator case ground going straight to the distro block.
Sorry, yes. From block to rear. Sorry
where can I get those nice blue wires you got?
How do you get your rear view mirror to hold? Lol I have one 12 barely pushing 1k watts and my mirror fell off and took a chunk of glass with it 😂
Damn. Lucky I guess. Have not done anything extra to it and it holds up fine.
I know I’m late my question is can I run in parallel with stinger agm battery in the rear or is it better to put this under hood
Run just fine With any AGM
Hey man I had a problem with retaining the steering wheel controls in this car. I have the right adapter. If you did this can you let me know how. I'd appreciate it
Yeah They work just fine for me. My video comes out Friday at 11am pst. I go over everything in there.
if you had to choose this lithium battery or an xp3000 which would you choose? I have a 390 amp alternator, xs power d3400r up front. just asking your opinion
With that much alternator power, and the fact you have an AGM under hood for reserve, I’d for sure get a LTO. Will sort support way more wattage than another AGM would
So naturally I bought a second d3400 for the back. Wanted 2 exact same batteries. I had the sfb5000 but dumped it for JP43. It's definitely a power hungry amp at max volume. I still want one of these Lto's. If I put in back next to my d3400 just run a wire from positive on the lto 6 to positive on d3400 also neg to neg right ? I use dual runs of 1/0. I should also use dual runs with this lto as well correct? I really enjoy your videos man. You've helped me out a ton!
I posted my set up on the D4S Facebook group if you wanna see it. Keep in mind this is my first build. Lol
For max current flow you should, but if runs are short then single runs should suffice honestly
@@NextLevelCarAudio so I got the lto 6. I'll do dual runs. Got new D4S tinned ofc 1/0 cause I'm redoing my amp rack. Thanks man
First a question, is that volt meter at the front battery or at the amp? Second, if that's the actual voltage at the amp those batteries aren't doing a darn thing for you as you will not access reserve power until you reach their resting voltage so either your volt meter is wrong or your rise is insane because at that voltage you are on all alternator and 0 battery assistance. Very clean setup though and love the DC subs!
Do they charge on your car electrical system?
Why would you need to pre-charge them?
To not stress your alt and ruin it. Plus to avoid a firework show when first hooking it up.
@@NextLevelCarAudio so once you hook it up no more charging?
That is correct!
Are those Shengquan cells inside of that?
Id like to see how u wired the lto into your system. I have 2 of them as well and im stuck
Just in parallel with everything else
What is a cheaper battery charger to get it charged up. Can I use a NOCO GENIUS Lithium charger
Maybe you can…, but not quite sure. I’d ask D4S to see if you can.
Yea if it's the one with lithium charge selector
@@donationsaccepted4767 ok perfect they are smart charging cover lithium and I can get it for 50$ thanks.
Is a d3400 and a Lto battery enough juice for a skv2 3500 at .5 with a js 320 alternator
That’s a pretty serious alternator, so you should be okay as long as it puts out decent amperage at idle.
Where are you located fam. Do you hook up system for people
No more. No longer in business
Hey Bro. do you have to take it out to charge everytime? Thanks
No, just the initial charge that’s it
@NextLevelCarAudio Thank you Bro 😃
I have one of these wired before i added a UC 31 ultra cap and it did very well for not having aftermarket alternator or big 3. 3500 skar 3 10s
Nice