Rubber bushings are actually part of the suspension design and are there for a purpose.There is a reason they don't come standard even though poly bushings are probably cheaper to make. For road driven restored cars I think they are preferable to the poly joints.
Right never poly up control arms they are harsh and wezr other parts and the ride unless all you drive is salom courses then yeah but dont im tell8ng you
Nice video guys! Thanks for the mention of my web page. I find the solid A arm bushings are not that harsh. Herb Adams states in his book RACE CAR ENGINEERING, that it's about a 5% increase in harshenss. The big improvement is no deflection when you corner hard. Most 3/4 ton pickups have solid A arm bushings for comparison. I also like solid subframe to unibody mounts. Stiffer suspension without improving the subframe mounts can result in the unibody moving too much relative to the subframe. It can cause the gas pedal to move under your foot when you hit a bump, the engine and sub are moving relative to the body. This is due to loading several times higher than the factory tuned the car for. The original tire for a Camaro was only a 7:35 X 14 on a 5" wide rim with 4.5" of tread! High performance Tubular upper Arms "should" have the upper ball joint moved rearwards so you can set caster at 5 to 5.5 degrees positive. This makes the car corner better and track straighter on the road. I have no way to know if these arms do that but most do. Moving the upper ball joint rearward moves the tire rearward which may cause it to hit the splash panel on sharp turns. Some A arm sets move the lower ball joint forward in addition to the upper rearward. This keeps the wheel centered in the wheelwell.
Thank you guys for the video, i'm doing a ground up rebuild on a 1976 camaro I have been working on it for over a year now and finally I am back at re-assembly and today I will be doing shocks ( KYB gas ) but after seeing what you said about the QA1's I think I might be buying those. I kept the OEM control arms got them blasted repainted and pushed in Prothane Polys, OEM spindles were in great condition and used Eidbach 1' inch drop springs Willwood duel piston and drilled and slotted rotors.
I just installed UMI tubular control arms and Aldan Coilovers and I installed the coilovers with the nut 1 inch from the bottom and I could barely get my floor jack out and its a low profile jack. I had to go back in and raise the nut 1 inch and it raised the car about 2 inches.
Great info. Remember to keep the stock A-arms. If they have a part number somene doing a factory show car restore will want them or parts off them. One mans trash is another man's show car.
Awesome info gents!...I know now to go with the stock A-arms on my 82 Cutlass Supreme Brougham although the tubulars look awesome I'm all about a quiet and soft ride like those cars came with!...so again thanks guys!...
The reason the factory used low caster and positive camber is part of the way they made it handle so that the average driver wouldn't wreck the car in a turn. Stock cars would understeer and "Push" through the corners, giving an uneasy feeling so that the driver would slow down in the turn. If it handled really well with good angles and springs, shocks, sway bar, etc, then unexperienced drivers might go into the corners too fast because it feels good and the car would oversteer and the rear end might come around and wreck the car.
Why dont u use Qa1 2 inch drop coil over? You could adjust ride height and also use 2 inch drop spindles ıf needed. Also adjust for compression and rebound.
Factory Castor was lower because they used bias ply tires and those tires flexed more (putting the contact patch further behind the steering axis) and thus had more built in castoring. Now everyone uses radials we should add castor to the factory settings. As you correctly stated you add more for power steering cars, less for manual steering. Most alignment shops just use factory specs and will set it poorly - leaving your car wandering all over the road.
Cool! Thanks for that Phillip! Hadn't considered the bias-ply tire thing in the specs. Makes us wonder if the "radial tuned" suspension that Pontiac touted was just a better alignment....=)
I just want my 67 chevelle to be a little more stuff and not lean so much in the curves . But I want it to ride nice . Can I just add coil overs with the original upper and lower cost trim arms ?? And maybe a heavier sway bar ??
Aftermarket tubular control arms are slightly longer than stock and will introduce more caster...your alignment shop will let you know that caster is off from stock...if your racing around cones that is cool....it will not cause high tire wear...I wish you would have mentioned more about the potential geometry differences with tubular arms vs stock.
Is there tubular A frame mark up for 1963 Pontiac Lemans, my lower is single arm which is easily found. Can you help me on source makes specialized A frame for complete change over?
Hi Guys. Im restoring a 70 lemans convertible , frame up and plan on rebuilding the rolling chassis complete before reinstalling the body. One question I have is what spring compressor can I use to complete the front suspension as I wont have the car weight to jack the lower control arm to compress the new spring. I was planning on tubular control arms but now after watching your video,Im rethinking that as I might not want the tubular?? Its just going to be ran around town as a weekend hot rod and not raced but I do want a nice tight and quite steering ? Thabks for any insight on a good tool that I can use to accomplish control arm and new spring install. Thanks again. Great videos,Im a subscriber.
Hi Guys, Really Great video (just enough to get me in trouble). How far are you from E. Tn?. I have a project I would like to consult with you on (I will gladly pay you). I recently got a like new 1970 Impala. It has the original shiny gold paint, original black vinyl top, and 30K actual non rolled over miles. All #'s matching The car is a 4 door sedan. It is a fairly low optioned car (pwr steering, joy stick drivers side mirror, cloth interior). Currently no A/C, manual drum brakes, 10 bolt corporate rear, plain jane, mint, low mile car. I am looking to make it into a car that never existed. A 1970 Impala SS. I do not know what the best suspension was back then. I think they had the F41. I know they did make a Police Package. I do not think they called it a 9C1 back then (I think it was called a 6BC back in the day, but I am not sure). I have spoken to Mike at Eaton Detroit Spring. He suggested a nice progressive set of rear springs and a HD set of front ones (he gave me the part numbers). I want a recommendation for quality shocks, sway bars, trailing arms, etc... The car is a small block 350 - 2 barrel. I had the TH350 trans completely gone through and redone including all the updates with a Fairbanks shift improver kit as there were the usual pink spots on the garage floor from the speedo cable and dried up pan gasket. I ordered a blue printed set of dual exhaust, including the resonators from Waldrons (the company that does the exhaust work for Jay Lenos Garage). I actually have a like new Factory GM, Winters Foundry, Snowflake Aluminum LT-1 intake that will make the car look like a great day two car. I will add a Holley 600 with vacuum secondary's, GM dual snorkel air cleaner and probably add a set of LT1 finned valve covers. I want to retain the original ride height. Please reach out to me. Down the line, I also may want to add a 1969 Impala Chevrolet ratchet shifter console, a set of original Strato Buckets and a posi unit. I hope to hear from you. Thank you.
The bushing material in tubular stuff is Delron and should be considered a solid bushing almost metal. Will translate every bump and roughness in the road vary much like heim joint. This no joke it can be miserable. if you want to drive this car on the street regularly go with polyurethane. Still vary stiff compared to the stock marshmallow bushings.. Just an FYI,
It belongs to Larry Shirley, he is slowly but surely fixing it into a sweet cruiser. It is a factory 326 two barrel and power glide, converted to a 700R4.
hello, I am almost an everyday driver in my 1977 C10, now with 5.3, and I have air bags front and rear, and after watching your video about tubular arms upper and lower. I purchased both from CPP and after listening to you, it might be better if I just change to OEM A-ARMS, after listening to you about the ride effect, as I thought I would be making my front end more secure, with the bags, and yes a little better handling, but I like a smooth ride, and from what you are saying (with low profile tires) I am going to feel the road even more,, and I am not a speed demon, or racer, I am just driving normal.... so can you explain more, as I wish I knew someone with a truck with tubular arms - because looking at them in the BOX they look MEAN,, HELP
Tires with short side walls will ride rougher as it transfers more shock and road irregularities into the wheels and thereby the chassis. Same issue with urethane, it is harder than rubber thus more of the road noise and bumps get to you.
Great video guys, I have a '69 Camaro that I want to redo the suspension on and update to a more pro touring feel and level of performance. That and convert to disc brakes too. You've brought up many interesting points that I hadn't considered and to be honest, with parts so integral to safety and being as expensive as they are, it seems like a daunting process to say the least. The analytics of it all that you spelled out will help great deal when I do raise the funds to do this eventually.
What sized tires are on that car, specifically aspect ratio? One Stop Shopping is best so you get a matched system that works, and not a dogs breakfast you don't want to be driving
Honestly Mcinyt, we're not happy about the tire and wheel setup on this car. The fronts are 225/50R17 (decent) and the rears are 275/50R17 (problematic). The biggest issue is rear fitment which we'll be doing a video on sometime early 2015.
Nice video. I just subscribed. I ran into an issue with my 69 Chevelle tubular control arms that I just purchased. The original lower control arm 1/2" bolts would not insert into the inner bushing sleeves. The outer diameter of the inner sleeve is the same as the original GM but the inner sleeve diameter is about 1/8" less. It's a thicker inner sleeve therefore I ended up putting a thinner 7/16" 3.5" grade 8 bolt into the lower control arm. A problem occurred when I started torquing the lower control arm bolt. Chevrolet specs 80 lbs torque for the lower control arm fastener. That is the correct torque for a grade 8 1/2" bolt but way too much for a 7/16" grade 8 bolt. I could replace the 7/16" bolt that I torque to 80 lbs (I am sure it is damage) with a new 7/16 grade 8 and torque to 50lbs. Going to that approach makes me a bit nervous. Bought thru an eBay distributor, MBM DBK6472 Disc Brake Conversion Kit.
I ended up going to a machine shop and having the sleeves reamed out a bit. Only had to take out about .020". Everything is fine now. Thanks@@AutoRestoMod
I'm doing an air suspension truck.. what kind of control arms would you recommend other than the expensive mmw, stone fab, or even ride tech control arms that are way out of budget
Well, it might be good to hit the forums. Some one on the Squarebody groups is bound to have experience with this issue. We tend to source all of our stuff from a single supplier.
@M DC ended up using my stock arms just cutting them. accuair valve block, dual 444c comps, 5 gallon tank, dominator 2600's and bunch other stuff. it was a school project so it was really rushed so its bouncey with low psi in the bags and stiff with mid high psi in the bags. just a bought a 2019 golf gti tho so truck needs to go
I have a 3" lift on my tacoma w/ stock upper control arms, will a Uniball Design (ex: Total Chaos) fix the Positive Camber on my truck as compared to adjustable control arms (ex: SPC) ?
Well, after hearing all this with my 68 RS/SS Camaro with factory disks I am getting ready to restore , I will use my stock A frames with new polygraph bushings and all new front end parts, stock front end springs plus a stock ride height front tire with a bigger sway bar & poly bar kits as I want to drive this car and don't want to worry about worrying about replacement parts down the road ( will this work with that ? ) plus I hate lowered cars as they just don't cut it with me.
We'd probably recommend going with drop spindles if lowering is your only "thing". Most of the advantages of the Tubular A-Arms is Caster and cool factor.
Good video! Do you wonder if the same person gives you the "thumbs down" on all your videos? They could at least say "I don't like this video because..."
LOL! We don't know if it is one person or what, by now we've accepted that some (or some people) just don't like anything we do, but keep coming back for more...
These tubular a arms crack me up. Aside from some different reinforcement, the Hotchkiss ones are the same as the Amazon Chineseium one's. Identical. Write down to the same shit ball joints and spacers
As a long time road racer all of those stiffer bushes will cause all sorts of grief. They will crack the pickup points and ride like crap and transmit all sorts of noise. For the road OEM rubber bushing are the only way to go. Many of those aftermarket wishbones also screw up the geometry as they have little or no compliance. Even for a racecar this happen so everything must be dummied up and checked through the full supension travel. Dropped spindles IF made correctly are actually better but many are not. They are supposed to be a forged steel part. Clean them then cracktest them before even checking them on the car. I have seen one broken! That stock stub you had is junk as you pointed out as the bearing spinning on it will A. leave the hub loose on the stub and B. be a major stress riser for the steel. Shocks are a drama as well. Many gas shocks on an older car binds them up and on occasion sieze as well. Those QA1s are generally very good. An oil shock on a road car is usually ok, though stiffer springs may need better shocks
Urethane increases ride harshness due to the greater stiffness of the bushing. Geometry has very little to do with vibration. If your statement was true, why then would the big three use rubber? Why not oilite or bearings?
First, I'm not Jesus. Why you gotta be hostile? Some folks are interested in information, some, like you know everything and don't require our help. Can't wait to see your channel!
the problem with those control arms is you will never be able to adjust chamber not a good set of control arms. unfortunately you have to spend the money for global west. thats what i am doing now.
I got a '64 with either bent stock control arms or a bent frame, I decided to buy global west's upper/lower tubular arms so hopefully I can correct my camber issues, hope its worth the money lol
+commando8088 well i would check to make sure its just your old control arms that are bent if its the frame you should get it to a body shop and straighten the frame first before you put any other control arms on
For some reason, a few shops don't want to even work on my car, 2 shops told me to sell, one said my frame was straight and just needed new a arms, but never called me back, a 4th shop convinced me to get a new frame, but didn't stick to his word many times and I got my money back and no work done...Now I have a new shop that just does whatever I ask and doesn't suggest anything... I'm so lost man, I'm 17 and its my first car, I work 3 jobs and every penny has went into my car...
So if i pik up a 125 pound gal one night.....then a week later i picking up a 320 pounder....i need to change my springs each time i swap dates🤔🤔🤔 gimme a break🤡🤡😆
Rubber bushings are actually part of the suspension design and are there for a purpose.There is a reason they don't come standard even though poly bushings are probably cheaper to make. For road driven restored cars I think they are preferable to the poly joints.
Thank u for changing my mind
Right never poly up control arms they are harsh and wezr other parts and the ride unless all you drive is salom courses then yeah but dont im tell8ng you
Nice video guys! Thanks for the mention of my web page. I find the solid A arm bushings are not that harsh. Herb Adams states in his book RACE CAR ENGINEERING, that it's about a 5% increase in harshenss. The big improvement is no deflection when you corner hard. Most 3/4 ton pickups have solid A arm bushings for comparison. I also like solid subframe to unibody mounts. Stiffer suspension without improving the subframe mounts can result in the unibody moving too much relative to the subframe. It can cause the gas pedal to move under your foot when you hit a bump, the engine and sub are moving relative to the body. This is due to loading several times higher than the factory tuned the car for. The original tire for a Camaro was only a 7:35 X 14 on a 5" wide rim with 4.5" of tread!
High performance Tubular upper Arms "should" have the upper ball joint moved rearwards so you can set caster at 5 to 5.5 degrees positive. This makes the car corner better and track straighter on the road. I have no way to know if these arms do that but most do. Moving the upper ball joint rearward moves the tire rearward which may cause it to hit the splash panel on sharp turns. Some A arm sets move the lower ball joint forward in addition to the upper rearward. This keeps the wheel centered in the wheelwell.
David Pozzi You have a great site David! Good info here too. Wish we were closer together so we could do a handling episode with you.
Even if I went out with my wife for some burgers or ice cream, I still want an upgraded suspension.
Mudbone gaming me too bro my 69 Chevelle needs all the love I can give it
you'll be fine. have rubber pressed in.. the bushings are replaceable lol
And upgrading your wife?
Thank you guys for the video, i'm doing a ground up rebuild on a 1976 camaro I have been working on it for over a year now and finally I am back at re-assembly and today I will be doing shocks ( KYB gas ) but after seeing what you said about the QA1's I think I might be buying those. I kept the OEM control arms got them blasted repainted and pushed in Prothane Polys, OEM spindles were in great condition and used Eidbach 1' inch drop springs Willwood duel piston and drilled and slotted rotors.
Sounds like a great combination!
I just installed UMI tubular control arms and Aldan Coilovers and I installed the coilovers with the nut 1 inch from the bottom and I could barely get my floor jack out and its a low profile jack. I had to go back in and raise the nut 1 inch and it raised the car about 2 inches.
Great info. Remember to keep the stock A-arms. If they have a part number somene doing a factory show car restore will want them or parts off them. One mans trash is another man's show car.
Good idea Wolfman! We plan to do a rebuild video on these down the road.
Awesome info gents!...I know now to go with the stock A-arms on my 82 Cutlass Supreme Brougham although the tubulars look awesome I'm all about a quiet and soft ride like those cars came with!...so again thanks guys!...
Right on!
The reason the factory used low caster and positive camber is part of the way they made it handle so that the average driver wouldn't wreck the car in a turn. Stock cars would understeer and "Push" through the corners, giving an uneasy feeling so that the driver would slow down in the turn. If it handled really well with good angles and springs, shocks, sway bar, etc, then unexperienced drivers might go into the corners too fast because it feels good and the car would oversteer and the rear end might come around and wreck the car.
Another thing to consider is that more caster means harder steering. With zero or near zero caster the car would turn easier in parking lots etc.
Why dont u use Qa1 2 inch drop coil over? You could adjust ride height and also use 2 inch drop spindles ıf needed. Also adjust for compression and rebound.
What I use
FUN😎
72 Elco
Thank you for sharing this information. I am in the process of building one vehicle and considering building another.
Nice! You are welcome!
Factory Castor was lower because they used bias ply tires and those tires flexed more (putting the contact patch further behind the steering axis) and thus had more built in castoring. Now everyone uses radials we should add castor to the factory settings. As you correctly stated you add more for power steering cars, less for manual steering. Most alignment shops just use factory specs and will set it poorly - leaving your car wandering all over the road.
Cool! Thanks for that Phillip! Hadn't considered the bias-ply tire thing in the specs. Makes us wonder if the "radial tuned" suspension that Pontiac touted was just a better alignment....=)
Philip Ball I agree your correct
You guys do realize gas shocks are hydraulic shocks with nitrogen gas to keep the oil from foaming.
I just want my 67 chevelle to be a little more stuff and not lean so much in the curves . But I want it to ride nice . Can I just add coil overs with the original upper and lower cost trim arms ?? And maybe a heavier sway bar ??
Do aftermarket sway bars front and rear, it will be much better in the corners.
Aftermarket tubular control arms are slightly longer than stock and will introduce more caster...your alignment shop will let you know that caster is off from stock...if your racing around cones that is cool....it will not cause high tire wear...I wish you would have mentioned more about the potential geometry differences with tubular arms vs stock.
Well, I tried to get info from the manufacturer but our timeframes were off. We had to shoot the video to get the car back to the owner.
Another great video with really good info. Keep up the awesome work guys.
3:13 content starts here.
If you ever get to 1000 subs or get an advertiser, and you are trying to make a go of it, remember what you did here. Peace.
@@AutoRestoMod i dont post these here to offend creators. I put these here because alot of viewers appreciate it
Is there tubular A frame mark up for 1963 Pontiac Lemans, my lower is single arm which is easily found. Can you help me on source makes specialized A frame for complete change over?
I tried tubulars I lost about 3/4 of a second in the quarter mile I'm back to stocks running low 7s now so there you go it's the weight diffrence
Dang, who woulda thought!
Hi Guys. Im restoring a 70 lemans convertible , frame up and plan on rebuilding the rolling chassis complete before reinstalling the body. One question I have is what spring compressor can I use to complete the front suspension as I wont have the car weight to jack the lower control arm to compress the new spring. I was planning on tubular control arms but now after watching your video,Im rethinking that as I might not want the tubular?? Its just going to be ran around town as a weekend hot rod and not raced but I do want a nice tight and quite steering ? Thabks for any insight on a good tool that I can use to accomplish control arm and new spring install. Thanks again. Great videos,Im a subscriber.
Hi Guys, Really Great video (just enough to get me in trouble). How far are you from E. Tn?. I have a project I would like to consult with you on (I will gladly pay you). I recently got a like new 1970 Impala. It has the original shiny gold paint, original black vinyl top, and 30K actual non rolled over miles. All #'s matching
The car is a 4 door sedan. It is a fairly low optioned car (pwr steering, joy stick drivers side mirror, cloth interior). Currently no A/C, manual drum brakes, 10 bolt corporate rear, plain jane, mint, low mile car. I am looking to make it into a car that never existed. A 1970 Impala SS. I do not know what the best suspension was back then. I think they had the F41. I know they did make a Police Package. I do not think they called it a 9C1 back then (I think it was called a 6BC back in the day, but I am not sure).
I have spoken to Mike at Eaton Detroit Spring. He suggested a nice progressive set of rear springs and a HD set of front ones (he gave me the part numbers). I want a recommendation for quality shocks, sway bars, trailing arms, etc... The car is a small block 350 - 2 barrel. I had the TH350 trans completely gone through and redone including all the updates with a Fairbanks shift improver kit as there were the usual pink spots on the garage floor from the speedo cable and dried up pan gasket.
I ordered a blue printed set of dual exhaust, including the resonators from Waldrons (the company that does the exhaust work for Jay Lenos Garage). I actually have a like new Factory GM, Winters Foundry, Snowflake Aluminum LT-1 intake that will make the car look like a great day two car. I will add a Holley 600 with vacuum secondary's, GM dual snorkel air cleaner and probably add a set of LT1 finned valve covers. I want to retain the original ride height. Please reach out to me. Down the line, I also may want to add a 1969 Impala Chevrolet ratchet shifter console, a set of original Strato Buckets and a posi unit. I hope to hear from you. Thank you.
I’m trying to install upper control arm on my 72 Chevelle but on driver side the steering is in the way to take stock upper control arm
The bushing material in tubular stuff is Delron and should be considered a solid bushing almost metal. Will translate every bump and roughness in the road vary much like heim joint. This no joke it can be miserable.
if you want to drive this car on the street regularly go with polyurethane. Still vary stiff compared to the stock marshmallow bushings.. Just an FYI,
With the stiffer setup, I recommend aluminum subframe bushings. Did wonders on my 69 Camaro.
Did you get a lot of road noise switching to the aluminum bushings?
Unibody difference 🤷🏽♂️
@@srbeckable I don’t know. Not a lot of mufflers on my car. 😁
How do feel about ridetech front suspension vs stock?
Can we know more about that 64 le mans? maybe some pictures?
It belongs to Larry Shirley, he is slowly but surely fixing it into a sweet cruiser. It is a factory 326 two barrel and power glide, converted to a 700R4.
hello, I am almost an everyday driver in my 1977 C10, now with 5.3, and I have air bags front and rear, and after watching your video about tubular arms upper and lower. I purchased both from CPP and after listening to you, it might be better if I just change to OEM A-ARMS, after listening to you about the ride effect, as I thought I would be making my front end more secure, with the bags, and yes a little better handling, but I like a smooth ride, and from what you are saying (with low profile tires) I am going to feel the road even more,, and I am not a speed demon, or racer, I am just driving normal.... so can you explain more, as I wish I knew someone with a truck with tubular arms - because looking at them in the BOX they look MEAN,, HELP
Tires with short side walls will ride rougher as it transfers more shock and road irregularities into the wheels and thereby the chassis. Same issue with urethane, it is harder than rubber thus more of the road noise and bumps get to you.
Deep spring pockets would alter the geometry a tad, but offset spindles wouldn't ..right?
Right. Offset spindles would be my go to.
Great video guys, I have a '69 Camaro that I want to redo the suspension on and update to a more pro touring feel and level of performance. That and convert to disc brakes too. You've brought up many interesting points that I hadn't considered and to be honest, with parts so integral to safety and being as expensive as they are, it seems like a daunting process to say the least. The analytics of it all that you spelled out will help great deal when I do raise the funds to do this eventually.
What sized tires are on that car, specifically aspect ratio?
One Stop Shopping is best so you get a matched system that works, and not a dogs breakfast you don't want to be driving
Honestly Mcinyt, we're not happy about the tire and wheel setup on this car. The fronts are 225/50R17 (decent) and the rears are 275/50R17 (problematic). The biggest issue is rear fitment which we'll be doing a video on sometime early 2015.
Having the same problems with my control arm bolts today! UGH!
Sorry to hear that!
Does the stiffness of the control arm bushings have any bearing on the amount of tow-in used?
+oldvideodude No, toe is toe. The bushings will bring in a little more road feel.
My mulet does little under 5s in the quarter mile running stocks
That is one speedy Mullet. You might try a shorter cut in the front. I hear that is good for sub 4s.
Is there a manufacturer that makes oem replica a-arms in the USA?
In the USA is where the rub lies. Most all of the US stamping plants are extinct. So as far as I know, no.
Opt to refurbish, or go down the tubular rabbit hole? Not sold on control arms over seas.
And if i buy qa1 control arms and want too youse a 15” wheel? On front? Should clear ? Lower control arm with the wheel?
You would have to consult QA1. I would hope that the manufacturer would make sure that the 15 inch would fit.
Nice video. I just subscribed. I ran into an issue with my 69 Chevelle tubular control arms that I just purchased. The original lower control arm 1/2" bolts would not insert into the inner bushing sleeves. The outer diameter of the inner sleeve is the same as the original GM but the inner sleeve diameter is about 1/8" less. It's a thicker inner sleeve therefore I ended up putting a thinner 7/16" 3.5" grade 8 bolt into the lower control arm. A problem occurred when I started torquing the lower control arm bolt. Chevrolet specs 80 lbs torque for the lower control arm fastener. That is the correct torque for a grade 8 1/2" bolt but way too much for a 7/16" grade 8 bolt. I could replace the 7/16" bolt that I torque to 80 lbs (I am sure it is damage) with a new 7/16 grade 8 and torque to 50lbs. Going to that approach makes me a bit nervous. Bought thru an eBay distributor, MBM DBK6472 Disc Brake Conversion Kit.
Thanks for the sub! I'd try and contact the source supplier for info. The smaller bolt makes me a little nervous.
I ended up going to a machine shop and having the sleeves reamed out a bit. Only had to take out about .020". Everything is fine now. Thanks@@AutoRestoMod
It sure would be helpful if you indicate forward and aft on your castor explanation.
Sorry Terry, we forgot to indicate that. We've added a note on the page to fix the issue. Thanks for advising us of it!
hi
i subbed you guys are the best ive seen i hope yall keep it up
Thanks! We appreciate your joining us!
I'm doing an air suspension truck.. what kind of control arms would you recommend other than the expensive mmw, stone fab, or even ride tech control arms that are way out of budget
What kind of truck?
1993 Chevy c1500 ext cab
Well, it might be good to hit the forums. Some one on the Squarebody groups is bound to have experience with this issue. We tend to source all of our stuff from a single supplier.
@M DC yes. got it done last may, selling the truck now
@M DC ended up using my stock arms just cutting them. accuair valve block, dual 444c comps, 5 gallon tank, dominator 2600's and bunch other stuff. it was a school project so it was really rushed so its bouncey with low psi in the bags and stiff with mid high psi in the bags. just a bought a 2019 golf gti tho so truck needs to go
If I run them with manual sterring what will the outcome be ??
About the same. The real issue is tire stickiness and width.
I have a 3" lift on my tacoma w/ stock upper control arms, will a
Uniball Design (ex: Total Chaos) fix the Positive Camber on my truck as
compared to adjustable control arms (ex: SPC) ?
Honestly, we have not dived into the Front Runner or 4X4 market so we'll be honest and say we don't know.
alignment is needed to adjust camber
This helped some.
not enough caster and cant adjust chamber
Well, after hearing all this with my 68 RS/SS Camaro with factory disks I am getting ready to restore , I will use my stock A frames with new polygraph bushings and all new front end parts, stock front end springs plus a stock ride height front tire with a bigger sway bar & poly bar kits as I want to drive this car and don't want to worry about worrying about replacement parts down the road ( will this work with that ? ) plus I hate lowered cars as they just don't cut it with me.
It is a solid plan. You could just go back with the stock bushings too.
Anything for 2ng gen fbody ?
what if you just installed the UPPER TUBULAR "A" ARMS ONLY....will it possibly lower the vehicle?
We'd probably recommend going with drop spindles if lowering is your only "thing". Most of the advantages of the Tubular A-Arms is Caster and cool factor.
Good video! Do you wonder if the same person gives you the "thumbs down" on all your videos? They could at least say "I don't like this video because..."
LOL! We don't know if it is one person or what, by now we've accepted that some (or some people) just don't like anything we do, but keep coming back for more...
Am going to draw a paper caster and cander and on my car
Already ask them and they don’t know they just make that kit for 1990 454 ss 😩
Well. That sucks!
This is tommy I have a 1968 chevelle not 67 .
These tubular a arms crack me up. Aside from some different reinforcement, the Hotchkiss ones are the same as the Amazon Chineseium one's. Identical. Write down to the same shit ball joints and spacers
DO NOT USE THE BALL JOINTS with those kits..totally junk.they will break or fail
As a long time road racer all of those stiffer bushes will cause all sorts of grief. They will crack the pickup points and ride like crap and transmit all sorts of noise.
For the road OEM rubber bushing are the only way to go. Many of those aftermarket wishbones also screw up the geometry as they have little or no compliance.
Even for a racecar this happen so everything must be dummied up and checked through the full supension travel.
Dropped spindles IF made correctly are actually better but many are not. They are supposed to be a forged steel part. Clean them then cracktest them before even checking them on the car. I have seen one broken!
That stock stub you had is junk as you pointed out as the bearing spinning on it will A. leave the hub loose on the stub and B. be a major stress riser for the steel.
Shocks are a drama as well. Many gas shocks on an older car binds them up and on occasion sieze as well. Those QA1s are generally very good.
An oil shock on a road car is usually ok, though stiffer springs may need better shocks
Thanks for the input!
very god !
Brazil rio city .
Complete over exaggerations one everything. Any so called firmness from the new urethane bushing is not felt because of the changes in geometry.
Urethane increases ride harshness due to the greater stiffness of the bushing. Geometry has very little to do with vibration. If your statement was true, why then would the big three use rubber? Why not oilite or bearings?
great info but too much chatter
Sorry you feel that way Gary! We explain and sometimes cut up like I have since I started working on cars in 1980.
@@AutoRestoMod most car guys are jabber jaws when it comes to cars. Mechanics usually work better together and constantly bounce ideas off each other.
Jesus Christ
A car that handles
Is Not going to drive like a Rolls-Royce
don’t have to spend an hour talking about it
First, I'm not Jesus. Why you gotta be hostile? Some folks are interested in information, some, like you know everything and don't require our help. Can't wait to see your channel!
What a lot of guys don't realize, is that they overbuild the crap out of their cars.
Those kmjs look likw harbor freight china specials! They are way too inexpensive, id spring for global, Detroit speed or hotchkis. Not china specials
We didn't do the springing.
Terrible welding on those new tubular parts ....!
the problem with those control arms is you will never be able to adjust chamber not a good set of control arms. unfortunately you have to spend the money for global west. thats what i am doing now.
I got a '64 with either bent stock control arms or a bent frame, I decided to buy global west's upper/lower tubular arms so hopefully I can correct my camber issues, hope its worth the money lol
+commando8088 well i would check to make sure its just your old control arms that are bent if its the frame you should get it to a body shop and straighten the frame first before you put any other control arms on
For some reason, a few shops don't want to even work on my car, 2 shops told me to sell, one said my frame was straight and just needed new a arms, but never called me back, a 4th shop convinced me to get a new frame, but didn't stick to his word many times and I got my money back and no work done...Now I have a new shop that just does whatever I ask and doesn't suggest anything... I'm so lost man, I'm 17 and its my first car, I work 3 jobs and every penny has went into my car...
+commando8088 where are you from
Email me maybe i can help you figure out what to do send me your phone number to joeflh2002@gmail.com ill try to help you the best i can
So if i pik up a 125 pound gal one night.....then a week later i picking up a 320 pounder....i need to change my springs each time i swap dates🤔🤔🤔 gimme a break🤡🤡😆
Them upper and lower a frames way overpriced
OK!
What makes them so expensive
NPD... Overpriced........
Not really. They are also HUGE supporters of the hobby. A lot of money goes out to support local shows, as well as national ones.
@@AutoRestoModThey also have a great collection of classics at their warehouse in Ocala
I can put it in 69 firebird
Is that phrased as a question? Then, yes. If it is a statement...then yes.
Witch way is front on castor ?
LOL