How to: REAR DIFFerential fluid drain/fill 2009-13 Subaru Forester (or any vehicle but 2011 shown)
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- Опубліковано 7 жов 2024
- Hey guys....in today's video, I show you how to change your REAR diff fluid out and fill it back up. This works on any vehicle, but specifically this is for the 2009 to 2013 Subaru Forrester (The one in the video is a 2011). Thanks for watching, and don't forget to LIKE and COMMENT down below;-)
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That was a complete video on the subject. Your filming of the steps necessary to remove and replace the differential plugs along with the narrative provided an easy to follow process for completing the fluid change. The addition of information on the siphon pump, fluid, and tools used made it a complete video and one of value. Thank you very much.
Hey thanks Jim... sorry for the late response I just noticed your comment:-)
@@hurstysgarage I am sure you are busy. And you are the one giving out gifts here!!!
nice work on this video! changing diff fluids is a cheap and easy way to help insure longevity.
your Subie diff looks so clean and non-rusty like it's never seen snow and salty roads! many will be significantly corroded. when that happens those plugs can get brutally tight, and there is limited room under the car to break them loose with a long bar. you DO NOT want to use an impact gun, or you risk cracking the diff casing - that will completely ruin your day along with your wallet. can't afford to go crazy when you have steel plugs threaded into an aluminum casing.
SOLUTION: get a 40" (or in my case when I changed the diff fluid on our 2009 Forester, two 20" extensions) and a 13mm square end socket. NAPA carries this - the 1/2" drive nub is actually 12.7mm and having the 13mm square socket gives a tighter fit in the plug. with the 40" extension, you can sock it into the diff plug and run the end straight out past the rear bumper, rest the end of the extension on a jackstand for support, and get all of the leverage. if the plugs are really stuck, you can also try turning them just a hair clockwise to break them loose as well.
A couple of long extensions and a breaker bar worked great for me to get the stubborn plugs out. Thanks for the tip
@@claudiajoy1011 awesome, glad it helped!!
Well said and thank you for helping out with the awesome information so the viewers can get as much info as possible to make the best decision about keeping up on that all important maintenance:-)
This is solid advice, the forester we just got has been here in Maine for a while and it shows. The brakes were an experience 😂😂😂
@@Ofvandelayindustries I bet! ours has lived in NJ and while the chassis & body aren't rusting, pretty much every bolt & fastener underneath the car are sculptures in iron oxide ☠☠☠
zinc-coated brake rotors & hardware are definitely best for our salty-road climates.
Owner of a 2012 Subaru Forester.
AWESOME !!! You are The MAN when it comes to instructional videos. Thank you SIR !!
Awesome John, glad I could help you! And if you keep praising me like that, my head's not going to fit through the doorway, LOL thanks for watching buddy
Just did my 2011 forester w/206k miles. Those plugs were in there. Gsh. The Fluid didn’t even look like it needed to be changed but it can’t hurt. Thanks for info!
That's what I like to hear! And that's awesome that you ride has 206,000 miles on it.. way to keep that sweet machine on the road.. kudos to you:-)
Outstanding demonstration!!! Thank you for taking the time to share this.
Thank you!!!! and sorry for the late response
Great video! Clear and well explained. Thank you much!
You're very welcome!
Good advice about taking off the top plug first. Common sense, sure, but when you've crawled under a car, sometimes we "forget", and then mutter to yourself something like "Oh (insert prefered expletive here) why did I just do that?"
@@kevinwilson9589 💯 ABSOLUTELY...been there done that, lol
Haha. I love the positive comments and vibe of your video! : )
Thanks a million....your response is why I do them, and you have to SUFFER through them🤣
Super helpful and straightforward. Thank you!
Yes, I like this vehicle :) ... because pretty much everything can be done by my own hands. Not like the new over-complicated cars.
You hit it out of the park with that answer...ME TOO!
I do NOT recommend using a breaker bar with a 1/2" "bit" (or extensions ending up with a 1/2" drive in the plug socket) if the plugs are tight at all. You'll end up damaging something -- luckily in my case it was just the end of my 1/2" extension.
Further, I put my best micrometer to the task, and, the inside dimension of the drain plug square "socket" is right at 14.0mm -- maybe 14.05mm if the corrosion was thoroughly cleaned off. In this size range bits to sockets (or 1/2" extensions, male to female) have about 0.5mm "slop" (looseness for a male end to go into a female end), so, what you really want is a 13.5mm drive, I think, and, by golly, such is made by a Japanese company named Koken. The part number is 4110M-13.5. The price is all over the map, depending on the vendor, but, there is an eBay seller who has them for $13.37 and free (if slow) shipping. Other sources I'm not familiar with are even cheaper. If you have other stuff to buy, consider US Tool Hub (low prices and free shipping for orders over $99.)
I'll report back once the bit comes in. :-)
Great video - very complete and easy to follow.
Thank you. Clear explanation
Great and informative video
Thank you so much. Great video
Glad to see someone doing their own maintenance! Thanks a bunch:-)
TYSM for these videos!
Just glad to see someone taking care of these AWESOME rides:-)
Good job
Thanks for watching!
Different videos have shown different torque specs...36.2....32. Anyway, nice video. Thanks
Hey Patrick...seen that too, so I asked my local Subaru dealer what they spec it too...so that's what I passed on to you guys:-) Thanks for watching and great comment!
Very useful and helpful. My car is a 2010 Subaru, sold in the United Kingdom and the only difference is that mine needs a 10mm Allen key to undo the sump plugs. maybe Subaru changed the specification at some point?
Thanks Hursty for the info
You got it buddy:-)
I Needed a 13 mm insert to remove the rear diff-oil plugs. i hope its usefull. subaru 2011 forester.
Thanks👍
Awesome:-)
Do you have one for the transmission fluid? (2009-2013) forester
@hurstysgarage
I'm doing this for my mother's car. I have enough to do the front and maybe 1-2 ozs short for the rear... is it OK to use a couple ounces of 75w-140 to top it off? I have that because that's what my Jeep takes.
@@LIToyGame I don't really like to mix brands or different weights, so, take that advice for what it's worth...will it blow up ...no...is it recommended...NO...so safe bet is to get some more of the same:-)
Looked like there were some metal pieces on the magnet… more than just shavings or metal fillings. They where small but makes it look like you had chips off the gears. How many miles since your last differential fluid change?
Yeah, good eye Michael...I got this vehicle used, and from the service records that I received, it does not look like it has ever had it changed! All I can do is hope and pray that "she" holds up, and that the next time I change it, things look a little different. So far so good though, because no adverse events or anything noticeable felt or heard in that area! Thanks for watching, and comment...and I'll keep ya updated if I find myself in a bad way:-)
No gaskets?
No...they are tapered so when they reach toward end, they are bigger than hole. If you want, you can use tephlon tape to provide an extra barrier, but don't be sloppy with it:-)
As always though ****consult a qualified technician for further guidance***
Thanks for watching:-)
Which bit did you use to pull the plugs?
Shoot, can't believe I forgot that info...sorry! 1/2 drive socket:-)
Are the plugs 1/2”
You can get "subaru oem" parts and fluid from the same factories, without their name/logo, for much cheaper. Literally no reason to pay more.
True, but I like to stick with Subaru fluids as a preference especially when saving money doing my own changes:-)
I just bought a 2011 2.5 Outback with 135 K miles. Great shape, seems very solid, but I think I'll be constantly worrying about the damn head gasket. What do you think, Sir ?