BMW 530d F11 BROKEN TIMING CHAIN - Part 3: Timing Chain Replacement N57/N47
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- Опубліковано 7 жов 2024
- At this point I need to get the timing chains replaced & timed correctly. The BMW N57 (3.0L 6cyl) and the N47 (2.0L 4cyl) engines share almost identical timing chain configurations, the the procedure is essentially the same.
Engineers that decided set this fragile timingchain on the backside of the engine deserve 10 stars in the book,😮 you are a hero doing this job on this old car 😅
I could hardly believe it when I learned how they built this engine 🤷♂️
This will be a common problem now that most cars have higher mileage… hopefully some people can take hope from my experience 😊
I DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU DO FOR A LIVING, MY FRIEND? BUT IF YOUR EVER MADE REDUNDANT, YOU COULD ALWAYS OPEN YOUR OWN GARAGE! WELL DONE AGAIN!
I’m nowhere near that good mate 😉👍
@@Nut_Job. GET ON! DON'T DO YOURSELF DOWN! I'D TRUST YOU TO SERVICE MY CAR! YOU TAKE CARE NOW.
I've done some serious work on the drive, cam belts, head gaskets, clutch etc, but you've taken it to another level! Good on you for tackling this with limited facilities, keep up the good work
This man has so much patience... He's a clever man. Why do BMW make things this hard for there own mechanics
Well done. You are a very skilled man. Can't imagine many wanting to tackle this job. Hope everything goes straight forward putting the finishing touches on the job. Good luck. Look forward to the next video😊😊👍👍
Great job....snapped the timing belt on an Audi-a4(my fault, I knew it needed replacement, put it off too long)....bent 4 valves....basically the same job, but the Audi has a belt in front, much much easier than dropping the gearbox....looking forward to watching the rest of the job!!!!
Good job my friend,I have the N57 engine on 525d so I really enjoy your videos as I get to understand my own engine a lot better
Another fantastic video I’ve had to pull over to watch this .... so far so good fingers crossed it works now
It’s a mammoth task and one that many would never dream of tackling so as has been said before, don’t do yourself down, this isn’t a simple fix and you have gone about it in a calm and collected manner. I must admit I was a bit concerned about the oil pump sprocket as it looked a bit worn with the teeth appearing to be slightly bent at the tips but this could just be down to the angle it was filmed at. I know by now that you check everything and change if you’re not happy with what you find so I can relax a bit on that level. Good luck with the final part, like many I look forward to watching the video 👍🏻
I admire you working under the car like that. I have done complete restauration on old cars but I use a 2-post lift in my garage. A tool you may consider for much better comfort and easier access. Well done anyway.
I would LOVE a 2 post lift 👍
Im probably echoing what a lot of other people have said, but excellent work, I work on machinery every day and have worked on my own cars since the start and I wouldnt want to tackle that. An engine crane and stand wouldve transformed that job, well done for completing that on your back!
I know it would probably be best to have removed the engine, but that meant hiring a hoist plus I got a bit scared of removing anything else in the engine bay! 😂
HELLO AGAIN MY BOY, YOU'VE BEEN DOING YOUR HOME WORK! LOOKS LIKE YOU'VE CRACKED IT NOW! THE FUN STARTS, WHEN YOU'VE GOT TO PUT IT ALL BACK TOGETHER!! LOL WELL DONE!!!!!!!!!!!
Indeed, that’s the difficult bit....
Hi Nut job. Another fantastic update on the Beamer 👍🏻 I said before I take my hat off to you my friend 😆 Looking forward to the next video but I might be watching it in my house in Spain 🇪🇸 Thanks Stevie 😎
That metal gasket looks like the kind that crushes and doesn't need sealant, but if it didn't have it originally I would have stuck to the original and left it out, however the sealant I would use something high end like fuji bond that stuff never leaks and you don't want to repeat this job for a oil leak. Nice work mate.
This is just crazy !!! Impressive all that job with usual tools 😳😳😳
+1 👍
You sir are a Hero !!!
You are a brave man sir, I take my hat off to you.
Carnt wait to see it running again youve definitely got balls.
Come on... present yourself...Which knob-head gave this guy's outstanding effort a thumbs down.? Shame on you..😠
😢
Certainly looking forward to the next installment 👍
Let me first say that I am full of admiration of you, taking on a gigantic project like this.
You are doing amazing work and I am all for saving money where ever its possible, instead of paying thousands at the dealership.
They are realy securing their income by making the custumers bleed for repairs like this.
But...
Why the hell did'nt you pull out the engine instead of lying on your back under the car ?
It is garantied much much easier to work on and you can do it standing up.
Believe you me, it is alot easier to rip of the head when the engine is out of the car and You have all the space you need.
I know it seems odd if you’re used to pulling out engines... but I’ve not pulled an engine before, and I was more familiar with the transmission side of things, so I decided to go that way...
I weighed up both methods, but if I’m honest I was a bit scared of disconnecting even more things in the engine bay to get the engine out. Plus I’d need to hire a hoist, and I cannot be sure how long I’d need it.... blah blah, I just chickened-out & did what I knew more about! 😂
@@Nut_Job. Okay...
But next time you have to do a big job like that, you consider buying or hirreing a hoist.
You will discover that pulling an engine is rather a easy and straight forward job and it is even often easier to pull both engine and transmision at once and then it's easier to take them apart and put them together again when they are out of the car.
But again: Impressing work and an inspiration to all of us who is scared shitless of buying a car like yours and find ourselfs in a situation with a broken timing chain.
I am. as we speak, negotiating on either a 535d or M550d touring.
The dealer has 2 of each and if we can agree on a price, my old Mercedes S211 from 2008 (by far the most expensive and disapointing car ovenrship I have ever had) is leaving our driveway.
There are two happy moments in a mans life: When he gets his first Mercedes and when he sees it leaving for the last time !
Fantastic, good luck and best regards from Poland!
Top tip. When removing bolts or parts on project as big as this. Screw them back after removing any part if not possible, use a lot of plastic bags where you label them. Dont just leave them on ground. I've learned it the hard way. It's very frustrating to go to stealership to buy new bolts or etc fastening parts.
No, you cant re-use BMW bolts, they're aluminium, torque to yield, so re-use means the break off when torquing. All need to be replaced or you'll have to do the whole thing again potentially. The block is alloy so you cant use metal bolts, different metals react badly.
@ hello, ofcourse you replace them, but before installing them, just put old ones back so you dont mix stuff.
I enjoy watching your videos. I like your attitude about being confident and brave to crawl under the car. one thing you may consider is to get a separate microphone, I can barely hear your voice. Good luck for the final assembly!
Get a new phone can hear perfectly
I would wish to have you for my neighbor :)
You are doing very good, pleasure to watch it.
Lovely Jubbly, yet again another excellent bit of work just dont know how you think about the job and the video at the same time.
Take my hat off to you, I wouldn’t even attempt to try and fix this, nice vids 👍
Really good video mate. I am enjoying watching you work. Your saving a fortune if it was a garage doing it. The cost would be more than car was worth. Keep up the good work. We all make mistakes it's good to see that you have left them in. 👍👍
Hats off to you mate doing that on your drive! Currently my favourite mechanical UA-camr.
Bit of a step up from repairing a range rover rear wiper.
Yeah, I know... 😂
Cheers 🍻
Dont put that oil pan back on till ya head is back from da machine shop. Timin chain will drop and skip a tooth on ya, i would have also waited ta put the timin cover back on also. Other than that ya is doin a great job showin us how that bimmer diesel engine is put ta gether
Another excellent video. I am sure with your videos you will have given plenty of people the inspiration to do some jobs on there vehicles them selves. TOP MAN.
I think that’s the main thing from my point of view - everything is possible with enough enthusiasm & resourcefulness 👍
Nut Job your doing an excellent job only wish I was nearer to help
You are star mate! Great job, great video!!!
I don't know where you get the stamina from to work under Neath the car so far all good keep it up 👍
Fab, will be following this channel with interest
Enjoyed that 👌 If you ever find yourself looking for a job try cake decorating that sealing you did was ace 👍😂😂😂
I hate doing sealant sooo much 😖
Dude... gotta be honest you lost me when you said "I'm gonna do it myself".... if I was wearing a hat i would take it off to you sir.... can't wait for the next installment...
Big job that are kid.....well done you👍
Oh man! You are mine new idol!!
Well done fella
Have to wonder if an engineer at BMW is working on a new design that will make it impossible for an average guy to do this job.
that is their plan, once a car is above a certain age, 2nd, 3rd owner they want you to scrap it and buy another...i like old skool stuff.
This is not a job for an average guy anyway, even if the timing chain were in front of engine like in most configurations.
@@j.badinter988 yup, i used to run my own garage, jobs like this i would pass onto a specialist, too much to go wrong.
I can't understand why they have moved the chain to the rear of the engine. I have 2006 530d with the chain up front. The TIS says remove the engine first but I am changing it now with the engine in the car. I have a garage to work in so kudos to the video maker for doing this in his own driveway. Respect!
I Garasjen
They want every replacement to be an engine out repair I guess.
very good job!!
Great video, but there must be a fundamental flaw in the design. I the past I've always preferred vehicles with timing chains rather than timing belts. Because they generally lasted the life of the engine if the vehicle was well maintained. But recently I'm finding components aren't lasting, Recently replacement a snapped spring on a Suzuki with 25,000 miles.
Great Video series..... Please can I request for instructions in which you followed to get the job done....thanks
To anyone wishing to carry out this repair, regarding the issue with the gasket: the metal gasket is for use up to 3/2011 cars, without sealant (or cover part number 11 14 7 800 023). It's my understanding the "channel" is there as a compressible sealing space, not to put any extra liquid sealant in there. From 3/2011 and up (cover part number 11 14 7 812 996) the prescribed sealant is a 1,5-2mm bead of Loctite 5970 only. Sorry to say, but you used the wrong gasket vs. cover (stop video at 8:38, see top right corner of gasket vs cover, it has an extra hole in it). Luckily you applied that extra fluid sealant with the metal gasket, so it probably sealed up the whole thing enough. Beware of using too much liquid sealant, as it will get pressed out and may end up clogging oil paths!
Thanks 👍
Good job
I'm so glad the timing chain on my 330D is at the front, I can't believe they put the chain on the back on the N47/N57 it's such a nightmare! But honestly well done for keeping it up and making videos of the whole procedure. As for the replacement chain and guides is their a revised version of them? If I'm not mistaken the N47/N57 where failing because of the guides and replacing may still result in the chains failing again due to the design?
I’ve heard that too, however my guides were all fine. It was just a stretched chain failure ☹️
Great work! Could you explain more about how you set the timing up
Is there a seal for the crankshaft and pump in the timing cover? Bet you’ve got a sore neck from doing that work under the car! Good skills tho 👍🏻
What a pain in the arse job . Would it , have be worth fitting new sprockets or were they ok . Was that a upgrade gasket they brought out to allow more oil on the chains to Thank you great videos
It's quicker and easier to pull the engine and box out of the car, to do this job.
The guy doesn't have an engine hoist, he is working in front of his house!!
@@filippxx theyre not expensive and would totally transform this job. its frankly amazing he chose to do this on his back.
I've done it both ways on n47's and multiple times using the gearbox out method which is far less work and quicker, perhaps the best BMW repair channel on UA-cam (VLASOV was previously BMWEAST) explains why and he's got all the kit.
Morning does the rear main oil seal not need replacing
I actually did it, but didn’t film it 😢
Does the high pressure fuel pump need timing up ?- i know on fords (2.0 french engine)they do - but they will run out of timing for a while before the effects become known. Great work
Yes, there is a timing position for the HP pump sprocket. I’m not completely sure why, but I made sure it hit it’s mark at TDC as per the instructions 👍
Nut Job this fella explains it well ua-cam.com/video/eDgkG_lZeJo/v-deo.html
Hi, great video. Thx for sharing. My F20 chain just broke and I need a new engine. Can you tell me where I can acess the guide as you are following from bmw?
Unfortunately the online BMW workshop guide I used was taken down & I believe they made it a paid system under a new name (not entirely sure of the details though). If you’re up for complicated jobs like me though, I promise it’s worth it.
I couldn’t have done many of my repairs without them 👍
Is there a tensioner for the top Cam chain and will you still have access to it now you've put the rear cover back on?
Yes there is a tensioner - it’s a large ‘sprung bolt’ which is inserted into the side of the cylinder head. It’ll go in later when the head is on & just before the final camshaft sprocket is tightened up 👍
@@Nut_Job. it will be interesting to know if this tensioner was the reason for the failure of the chain, will you show the old one and compare to new?
Apologies if I missed it: did it bent any valves or just break the rocker arms? Also did you replace the rear main seal? Great videos. Thanks
Yes, I had 2 valves which failed a pressure test. I had them replaced & tested at the workshop that skimmed the head. I did actually replace the rear main seal, although it doesn’t show it in the video. The one I replaced was actually in really good condition, but changed it anyway while I was there.
Really nice video. One question, Which manufacturer made by the timing chain kit?
Really? Timing chain on the rear of engine? Crazy!
👌👌👏👏
Excellent work! Cant believe how you got through this without quitting! One question, what was the mid chain / guides wear like? Alot of garages now offer a top chain only service by splitting it and winding a new one around with guides and tensioners leaving the botom two which are much heavier duity chains... Interested in your thoughts!
They were fine really. I’ve seen this top chain procedure & I would definitely recommend it as the top chain is definitely the weakest in my opinion. Doing the top chain via that procedure with access from the cylinder head is 1000% more appealing than the consequences I faced after it breaking 👍
@@Nut_Job. Cool thanks, I agree after looking at the weight differences in the chains it’s not hard to see why the top is most prone to breaking! What mileage did yours break at? 170k?
I think it was 166k, which I still think is unacceptable. However most people (including me) are judging modern engines based on excellent long term experiences with older blocks... and the sad fact is that newer engines built from lighter alloys, with unusual layouts, lightweight components & multiple emissions compliance devices simply will not last as long ☹️
The best we can do is preempt the worst failures such as the timing chain, oil/vacuum pump etc 👍
Please put in description how many km/mi is on this chain!?
How many new subscribers did you get since you began this project?
Quite a few by the looks of things. Nearly 1000 new subscribers I reckon... Broken BMW’s 😫
DO you know IF there is any lock in chain?
The most idiotic deciision from BMW to build the timingchani at the back of the engine. Same goes for the M57n2 engines thats where it started as far as i know. the old m47 and m57 had the timng chaing at the front.
M57 engines have the chain on front, m57n2 have on front, just N engines have rear timing chain.
@@fabini14 sadly not. I have the m57n2 and its at the back
hello mate, was this part of your timing chain snapped engine rebuild series?
I wonder how common this chain failure issue is on BMW engines?
Interesting. Thank you. I had heard rod bearings were an issue on 10 cylinder M5 & 8 cylinder M3 cars but didn't realise it went beyond those high performance engines.
@@garysimpson3900 it's not nearly as bad as e60 m5 is, but its still a issue if you compare it to previous m57
Quite common. I work a bmw and we get them in regularly
Where can I find the bmw instructions you use?
Hi mate, did you drop your subframe when removing the oil pan ?
No, I actually managed to remove it with the subframe in place. I will add that it’s actually quite awkward/difficult… but it is possible with perseverance (and a decent tool selection of attachments, extensions etc.)
@@Nut_Job. thank you. My n47 has broken guide. And similar to your high mileage. It feels like open ended cheque for garage to fix. So your video has been inspired me to do it myself. Thanks great video
Good luck👍
Take care & don’t rush if you’re doing it at home like I was. Many others prefer to pull the engine out, but I didn’t fancy that so thought I’d try it my own way. Everything is fixable with enough time & effort 👍
@@Nut_Job. Thanks, I have managed to do almost everything. just one more question, how to you check your timing is correctly step up ? I don't have the special tool to lock the crankshaft. The rest 2 sprockets has marker when I can follow. but the 45 degree at crankshaft atdc is very comfusing.
I would really advise buying the timing tool set. They are not too expensive (maybe £25?) but will guarantee the camshaft is locked while tightening everything.
Hey NutJob, my indie mechanic is going to replace my time chain guides and chain tensioner, I remembered your video. Is there anything else you recommend he does while breaking down my 126K mi. 2012 528i n20? thanks for your advice
I’m actually not too familiar with the N20 engine... but with a quick google it seems a bit easier than the Diesel engines as the chain is (rightfully) at the front of the engine 👍
Chain, guides & tensioner, plus an oil & filter change should be all good 👍
@@Nut_Job. thanks!
Have you ever had issues with your oil pump relay?
Do you mean the fuel pump relay? The oil pump isn’t electric, it’s driven off the crankshaft by the short chain (which is replaced as part of the timing chain job)
Are you work like mechanic ?
Absolutely crazy putting the timing chain on the back, believe it was for a lower bonnet line, surely this is a service item and would need replacing at some point in the engines life? This is just form over function. Another stupid BMW design, take me back to my E28 M535i, mind you, even they had cam lube problems . . . German reliability . ..
So...this job can be done 100% safe with engine on?
Well… doing it safely is up to you. I just showed it can be done without removing the engine. I managed my own safety, but this will depend on the competency of anyone attempting this.
If you aren’t confident you can manage this job with your tools & skills then please don’t try it.
what was the problem of the chains?how do you know there is a problem??
My timing chain broke while I was driving. The engine will die immediately - this was the process of fixing the damage & replacing the timing chains
@@Nut_Job. i can not see a broken chain...maybe because i skip forward the video :) my good friend bought a e91 320d and i'm curious if these chains can be torn apart while you're driving
I don’t see the timing chain snapped, what exactly happened to the engine here? You didn’t tell
Yes, the top timing chain had snapped. The cylinder head has been removed & fixed at a cylinder head specialist. Next task is to put the transmission back on & get the head bolted back on once the car is back on the ground 👍
What mileage is?
what mileage?
Hi, I'm in the process of doing my timing chain on the N47. I have the cylinder head off, replaced the rockers etc... I don't suppose you could send me the timing instructions you have as I am just finding sparse information online
I was going to direct you to newtis.info but realised they’ve been shut down! Unless there’s another BMW manual source on the web I can try & describe steps from memory if you tell me which part you’re at?
@@Nut_Job.thanks for getting back to me mate. Yes newtis has been shut down! I am currently waiting on my new timing chain kit coming however I will be doing it the same way you did by timing the bottom end with the cylinder head off and then timing the top once that's back on. I have the engine out of the car too
Ok, so you will need the timing tool kit (hopefully you have this, but if not order it ASAP - only cheap). I won’t bore you with every little step as you can see a lot of it in my videos. Have you removed all the existing chains yet? I think the HPFP sprocket extractor tool comes in the timing kit. Remember the oil pump sprocket nut is reverse threaded. Remove that little oil pump chain, then extract the HPFP sprocket to release the middle chain. If your cylinder head is off then your top chain is already gone. When your chain kit arrives you can replace the plastic guides & tensioners.
Next, lock the flywheel in the correct position using the tool in the kit - this is TDC of cylinder #1 if I remember correctly. Replace the middle chain & bolt up the HPFP sprocket, followed by the oil pump chain & sprocket. There is a little slack in the small oil pump chain, this is fine. LEAVE THE FLYWHEEL LOCKING TOOL IN PLACE, and now reinstall the cylinder head. If you haven’t dismantled your camshaft assembly then they should still be in sequence - check that the dots align when the gears meet in the centre. Keep the dots centred & use the camshaft tool to keep it locked in place. Reinstall the camshaft assembly & run the top chain around the sprocket which bolts to the back side of the right-hand camshaft (keep the 3 bolts slightly loose for a minute). Screw in the cylinder head tensioner bolt & this will tension the chain. If you camshaft locking tool hasn’t moved then it’s time to tighten those 3 bolts on the back of the top sprocket. When you’ve done that, you’re timed!
Don’t forget to remove the flywheel locking tool too by the way 👍
Hi Nut job have you a part number for the timing chain kit please, or recommendations ware to buy please
I actually wanted to buy the kit made by FAI as I’ve used many of their parts before, but I couldn’t get one in the time needed. Ultra is the manufacturer I used in the end (I think there are UK based?)
Sorry, not sure of the part number but you can enter your car details on most resellers websites to get it right 👍
I have bought i 520d xdrive 2014 with 49709 miles so its pretty new with service history . it have engine N47N i bought it for 16.000 pounds . Do i need to worry about chain problems like this?
I wouldn’t worry about it at 49k. When you’re up towards 120k then I would get it done 👍
@@Nut_Job. Okey thank you for very fast reply. I only drive like 7500 miles per year so i hope it will take long time before i need to change the chain since it seems very expansive! The only thing they didnt change on this car is EGR valve so i called bmw and they said they will change it for free even if the car is from 2014. I only have a problem with some noise. When i stand still and move the steering wheel i hear a bonk sound from left side behind the wheel . it sounds really nasty. i only hear it when i driving slow or standing still and turning. I think i must go back to the dealer since i bought it yesterday. what can it be?
@@Nut_Job. ua-cam.com/video/vWWTNyFWWJY/v-deo.html sound like this
It sounds like a control arm ball joint or something like that. Definitely something they should fix where you bought it from. Suspension joints wear out all the time, so it’s nothing unusual really - just make them do it for you though 👍
@@Nut_Job. hello agin. i went down to the shop where i bought it. They was very nice and said they will take a look at it on thursday next week and that is prob the faults you mention. I dont need to pay anything. I live in Sweden and when you buy a used car here there is a saying bought is bought. So if something breaks just around the corner the seller is free from responsibility so thats why im very happy they will fix this on such expensive car
You don’t have any more videos only part 3 make more
They’re coming 👍
I have other commitments that slow the job down unfortunately
👌👌👌🙏🇮🇳
I believe u should of just take out everything to make things easier
You can get a plastic blade
Should have kept the rr lots better than the BMW pmsl
The new supra has the timing chain in the rear like this car,go figure.
Why r u just remove the engine to do theo job😅 that would be much easier😅
Bmw is garbage thank god i sold my :D
I wish you'd get a grip of your measurements. I've watched several of your videos and, frankly, you haven't a clue what cm or mm are. Look at 1 minute 30 in this video. You state that the oil pump chain should have around 70mm slack at its narrowest point. Ludicrous and it spoils your otherwise good efforts.
I work in mm all day everyday... why don’t you re-think your comment?!
AT ITS NARROWEST POINT, THE CHAIN SHOULD MEASURE ~70MM WITH AN ACCEPTABLE AMOUNT OF SLACK? Am I missing something?
70mm is 7cm. If you pinch the 2 sides of the oil pump chain together they should make ~70mm gap. 🤔
@@Nut_Job. At 1:30 you state: "this should have a bit of slack, by the way. I haven't measured it but ". The text caption then comes up with I BELIEVE IT SHOULD MEASURE ~70MM ACROSS THE NARROWEST POINT. clearly, you are commenting about the slack because you aren't specifying anything else. What should measure about 70mm? The distance from the inside circumference of the chain run, the outside circumference or what? Get a grip.
The distance/gap between the inner edges of the chain when pinched at its narrowest point.
It’s kind of hard to ‘measure’ chain slack any other way in a DIY format.
Don’t come at me with stupid confrontational comments like that about metric measurements, when I work with them all day, everyday... plus when I’m tired & cranky 🤨
@@Nut_Job. I have no way of knowing when you're tired and cranky or what you do all day. Most people measure chain slack by saying there should be a few mm of lateral movement in the centre of the chain run. I'll remove my subscription to your videos. Do as you like in future.
See ya 👋
Ese trabajo no se puede hacer de esa manera amigo.
Es una locura !.