Hello Brian, your rocker boxes are on the wrong way round. The domed nuts are on the timing side. Regarding the spindle ends, they are pressed on the shaft and if you get a long pin punch, you can tap them off the rocker shaft. Cheers.
Yep, had a few comments about the rockers being fitted the wrong way around, l have done the in situ repair which is good, however also bought another rocker shaft but would need to slacken a couple of the head bolts to swap them around. As the oil leak repair is good and the engine is running very well l am going to leave it and if l have to do any serious engine work on her l will swap the rockers and fit the new shaft. Regards Brian
very satisfying. i'd of just checked oil return at tank but guess leak at rocker shaft 'O' ring and pressure gauge confirm all is good there. would i ljft needles? did rev's reach that point , i'd set it factory, pilot jet sorted and tick over first. needle doesn't come significantly into play until 1/4 - 3/4 open. 500' was a very nice bike.
The pilot jets are the ones that are the brass inserts in the upper body of the the carb on opposite side to the air screw behind the blanking plug. I will have another go at cleaning them, also it has 3.5 cutaways on the slides and just reading some Amal Concentric info and I think they should be 3's, but will have another go at cleaning the pilots first. I think the oil leak from the centre of the exhaust rocker shaft is that the lube hole down the centre has been drilled too deep, but can't see how its been like that from new? strange. Will be having a look at that today.
@@TheCADengineer it will need to be scrupulously clean to spot weld or braze. Bit OTT of a PO to have drilled out shaft to make sure it was clear. All the best.
Hi Frank, the digital pressure gauge is a Keller LEO1, many years ago l used to annually calibrate all the pressure gauges that our engineers used in the field and that gauge was the calibrated certified master for the standard. Just had a look online and it’s still manufactured and still very expensive. I also have the pressure lines and a box full of different adapters. It’s very much overkill for checking the oil pressure on the Daytona, but it’s just what l have to hand. The oil pressure switch thread is 1/8” NPS so that’s the adapter size you need for the gauge hose to connect to. You should be able to get a sensible priced oil pressure test kit online. Regards Brian.
@@TheCADengineer Great detailed answer Brian, thanks! BTW, do you ever worry that high oil pressure at the take off could actually be a symptom of blocked oilways inside, ie reduced flow through sludge trap to conrods? I'm truing to figure out a way of diagnosing imminent sludge trap issues without splitting the cases, and it strikes me that rising oil pressure might give an indication.
Hi Frank, With a cold engine and new oil 80 to 100 psi at low rpm seems normal on a Triumph with the positive displacement piston pump and cartridge style pressure relief valve. If you search “Paul Henshaw Triumph oil pressure” on UA-cam you can see 3 or 4 videos of Paul checking the oil pressure on T100’s and T120’s. All are all around 90 psi (cold start up idle) l know his gauge set up is a tad crude, but all his readings are fairly consistent, so that would be a normal reading for a Triumph of that era with an engine of good condition. It would be difficult to diagnose that the sludge trap is restricting flow as the pressure relief valve will lift around 90 psi anyway. What normally happens when the crank journals are getting worn is low oil pressure will a hot engine at idle, the lead content of the white metal shells then rub off and the debris is carried in the oil back to tank, whatever particular material that’s small enough will pass through the gauze filter in the bottom of the tank will then be centrifuged into the trap. So if you are concerned check the tank filter and sump filter, clean them, put in fresh oil and go for a run, then recheck them, if they are clean then there would be no issues, however if you have debris showing then you could have a bearing/journal issue. If that’s the case then better to open up the engine before any catastrophic failure. Hopefully the filters remained clean, you have good oil pressure and all is well. Hope that is the case, regards Brian
It starts first kick every time, but the carbs are way off and possibly its the pilot jets as I have now raised the needles and it's still running very weak. Will be having a look at the oil leak today.
![Triumph 500 T100 Daytona short test ride [poor sound quality]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/mUi1RKuv-9o/mqdefault.jpg)
Hello Brian, your rocker boxes are on the wrong way round. The domed nuts are on the timing side. Regarding the spindle ends, they are pressed on the shaft and if you get a long pin punch, you can tap them off the rocker shaft. Cheers.
Yep, had a few comments about the rockers being fitted the wrong way around, l have done the in situ repair which is good, however also bought another rocker shaft but would need to slacken a couple of the head bolts to swap them around. As the oil leak repair is good and the engine is running very well l am going to leave it and if l have to do any serious engine work on her l will swap the rockers and fit the new shaft. Regards Brian
very satisfying. i'd of just checked oil return at tank but guess leak at rocker shaft 'O' ring and pressure gauge confirm all is good there. would i ljft needles? did rev's reach that point , i'd set it factory, pilot jet sorted and tick over first. needle doesn't come significantly into play until 1/4 - 3/4 open. 500' was a very nice bike.
The pilot jets are the ones that are the brass inserts in the upper body of the the carb on opposite side to the air screw behind the blanking plug. I will have another go at cleaning them, also it has 3.5 cutaways on the slides and just reading some Amal Concentric info and I think they should be 3's, but will have another go at cleaning the pilots first. I think the oil leak from the centre of the exhaust rocker shaft is that the lube hole down the centre has been drilled too deep, but can't see how its been like that from new? strange. Will be having a look at that today.
@@TheCADengineer it will need to be scrupulously clean to spot weld or braze. Bit OTT of a PO to have drilled out shaft to make sure it was clear. All the best.
Return to oil tank should be first check.
Hi Brian, I wonder what your oil pressure gauge is and where you got it?
Hi Frank, the digital pressure gauge is a Keller LEO1, many years ago l used to annually calibrate all the pressure gauges that our engineers used in the field and that gauge was the calibrated certified master for the standard. Just had a look online and it’s still manufactured and still very expensive. I also have the pressure lines and a box full of different adapters. It’s very much overkill for checking the oil pressure on the Daytona, but it’s just what l have to hand. The oil pressure switch thread is 1/8” NPS so that’s the adapter size you need for the gauge hose to connect to. You should be able to get a sensible priced oil pressure test kit online.
Regards Brian.
@@TheCADengineer Great detailed answer Brian, thanks! BTW, do you ever worry that high oil pressure at the take off could actually be a symptom of blocked oilways inside, ie reduced flow through sludge trap to conrods? I'm truing to figure out a way of diagnosing imminent sludge trap issues without splitting the cases, and it strikes me that rising oil pressure might give an indication.
Hi Frank, With a cold engine and new oil 80 to 100 psi at low rpm seems normal on a Triumph with the positive displacement piston pump and cartridge style pressure relief valve. If you search “Paul Henshaw Triumph oil pressure” on UA-cam you can see 3 or 4 videos of Paul checking the oil pressure on T100’s and T120’s. All are all around 90 psi (cold start up idle) l know his gauge set up is a tad crude, but all his readings are fairly consistent, so that would be a normal reading for a Triumph of that era with an engine of good condition. It would be difficult to diagnose that the sludge trap is restricting flow as the pressure relief valve will lift around 90 psi anyway. What normally happens when the crank journals are getting worn is low oil pressure will a hot engine at idle, the lead content of the white metal shells then rub off and the debris is carried in the oil back to tank, whatever particular material that’s small enough will pass through the gauze filter in the bottom of the tank will then be centrifuged into the trap. So if you are concerned check the tank filter and sump filter, clean them, put in fresh oil and go for a run, then recheck them, if they are clean then there would be no issues, however if you have debris showing then you could have a bearing/journal issue. If that’s the case then better to open up the engine before any catastrophic failure. Hopefully the filters remained clean, you have good oil pressure and all is well. Hope that is the case, regards Brian
@@TheCADengineer Thanks Brian, good advice I'll give all that a shot
Well done mate, first kick fire you must have done something right, I just had a look at my 68 T100s and there are no holes in the ends of the shafts.
It starts first kick every time, but the carbs are way off and possibly its the pilot jets as I have now raised the needles and it's still running very weak. Will be having a look at the oil leak today.
Beautiful!
Thank you! Cheers!