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Luckily the crankpin and conrod have survived, so don't need to split the bottom end.

Thanks for your positive comments, Regards, Brian.

The engine is coming out today, hopefully the bottom end is OK.

Thanks for the positive comments. Regards, Brian.

Hi, Thanks for your positive response, I normally just enjoy the spanners and hammers work and I don't mind painting/spraying the frames, but I try to avoid doing the tanks and side panels, however I have to say I enjoyed doing the tank work on this one and the spraying. I bought a Tiger Cub project a few years ago, it was fully stripped in bits, but the main reason I bought it was the tank and mudguards had already been professionally sprayed and I only had the mechanical work to do. Same with the B50 as it has an alloy tank and you are only doing small strips of paint and vinyl decals. Regards, Brian.

@@TheCADengineer I understand that one, in the past I have had my local car garage spray mine B44 and B50 really reasonable. I am due to retire shortly and your VLOGS are encouraging to have a go. I watched the rebuild on your B50 with interest. Keep up the good work. Regards, Geoff.

Hi, thanks for the positive remarks. The basecoat blue is Renault Bleu Majorelle Blue from the ebay link below: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/145785564057?var=444879798501 which is just an acrylic aerosol The clearcoat is a 2 pack 2K aerosol also from ebay as per the link below: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404746236738 On the next video I use the chrome look silver for the tank side panels which is just a plain acrylic Hycote branded aerosol called Chrome from my local motor factors. There is more detail on the paint finishing on the next video which I will be uploading to the channel in the next hour or so. Regards, Brian.

Hi, thanks for the positive response, l will put a short video up of the finishing spray job. Regards Brian

@@shanetr86 Hi, l wouldn’t order anything until you open it up and have a look as they are renown for clutch drag. Just remove the primary case and strip out the plates, wash all the old oil off the the friction and plain plates with some petrol or solvent, then ruff up the plain steel plates with some course production sand paper. Assembly them back dry and adjust up the 3 pressure springs, test by kicking it over with the clutch lever pulled in and it should be disengage easily. The oil is only there to lubricate the chain. Dependant on the year will determine what oil goes back in as the later T100’s (post 1969 dependant on serial number) share the oil from the engine, earlier versions like my 1968 the oil in the primary case is separate to the engine. ATF (automatic transmission fluid) works well and it only takes a small amount in the bottom of the case (check the manual) and don’t over fill. They all seem to suffer with clutch drag even if they have only been standing for a week or so, they recommend kicking the bike over with the clutch pulled a couple of times the free it off before starting otherwise you struggle to get it into gear. Hope you get it sorted. Regards Brian

Hi, thanks for the positive comments, good look with the Bonnie tank rack. Regards Brian

Hi, Thanks for the positive response. Regards, Brian.

Hi, Thanks for the nice comment. Regards, Brian.

Sound OK, but I like the idea of having them easily removable plus like the challenge. Regards, Brian.

Hi, I am using the dealers electronic workshop manual and it gives 200nm for the pinion nut, below is a copy and paste of the section below, it's for the 2012 - 2014 FREELANDER 2 - LR2 - VIN: xxx201 onwards (RHD) 8. Install and new pinion shaft nut. Using the special tool tighten the pinion shaft nut to 200 Nm (147 lb.ft). Renew Part: Differential pinion shaft nut Quantity: 1. 9. WARNING: High torque application. CAUTIONS: The special tool should be turned counter clockwise to install the pinion shaft nut. Do not use air tools to install the nut. Failure to follow this instruction may result in damage to the component. The pinion shaft should be rotated through two full revolutions by hand before the torque measurement is performed. Make sure the specified torque to rotate the pinion shaft is not exceeded. If excess preload is applied to the joint the pinion shaft should be removed and a new collapsible spacer, pinion shaft tail bearing, pinion shaft tail bearing cup and pinion nut must be installed. NOTES: Keep checking that the pinion rotates freely during this procedure. Follow the animation to make sure the drive pinion front bearing is installed correctly. Freelander has done over 25,000 miles since fitting the new bearings in the diff and still runs very smooth and silent. Regards, Brian.

Hi Pete, My Daytona is the last generation before they changed to the crankcase to primary case vent system so has the separate oil for the clutch side (1969) The vented system that you have on your 72 Daytona was designed to improve crankcase ventilation/breathing, however worth having a look at how the cable gland is where the alternator wires come out of the casing as that's where mine was allowing water in, although they do say the later breather system might cause condensation in the primary case as you have hot crankcase air being displaced into the cooler void of the primarily case. Still worth checking the cable gland though. Regards, Brian.

Hi Colin, I think my cables were for a T120 with twin 900 series concentrics as the 2 cable adjusters were fully wound out that's why I had to make the 2 brass outer cable extenders which are about 23mm long and thats with the twistgrip closed adjuster fully in. I have adjusted the max twistgrip stop so the bottom of the slides when fully open ate level with the top of the venturi opening, but when riding the bike I will never open them that far. My T100R is also fitted with chokes which are a single pull from the lever on the bars to the the twin splitter under the tank, now I am getting used to starting and riding the Daytona you never need the choke, just give the carbs a tikkle and she starts first kick from cold. I was going to remove the chokes, but the choke lever is part of the upper section of the front brake lever which is standard for the 68 and 69 models according to the parts book. Looking at the1970 and on twin carb Daytona's it looks like when they started fitting indicators as standard and the clutch and front brake lever changed to the type with integral switches the choke was no longer fitted, which shows It's no needed. Regards, Brian.

Hi, you are correct, looks like thats general engineering practice for fitting bearings to get the maximum clearance as it was hard to see that deep into the casing for the pinion bearing outer races. Anyway the old girl is still going strong with no diff or bearing noises. Regards, Brian.

I was in Douglas IOM in 1969 to watch the production race over the weekend, at the B&B where we were staying at was a guy with a brand new K0. He started it up for us and gave it a red line blast down the prom, it was a gorgeous looking bike, he had taken the removable baffles out for his trip to IOM to watch the TT and the sound was awesome. The early CB750 was the bike l always wanted but was always beyond my reach. In 69 I was 16 and had just started my 4 year apprenticeship and could only afford a 1961 Tiger Cub, l passed my test the year later and stretched myself cash wise to a 1967 T90 which was on offer with a good trade in price for the Cub, but could only dream of owning CB750. A well restored K0 can now be over 25k, so still well beyond my reach. Regards Brian

@@TheCADengineer the CB 750 is top of my I should have kept that list alongside my 1970 range rover classic ( Number 118) I sold it to a mate when I moved over to France 18 years ago who never got around to restoring it and sadly it's no more,I still have my 91 RRC as a daily driver had that 20 plus years now, it's good to see another man in a shed working on their passion.

Hi Ben, l think the majority of 1967 to 70 T100R’s have the chokes fitted, the choke lever is part of the front brake lever assembly as it’s the top half of the clamp, but when you look at the 1971 and on T100R’s that have indicators and the aluminium handlebar switch gear and levers there is no choke fitted. However now l am familiar with starting and riding the bike you definitely don’t need a choke anyway, from cold turn on the fuel tap, a light tickle to the carbs and it starts first time every time. Maybe Triumph eventually realised that the choke is not required! Regards Brian

Will do, Thanks.

@@tristenbryson8805 Hi Tristan, On your 2011 there are brake shoes on the inside of the rotor discs, you will probably have to remove the shoes. Once the shoes are out of the way the the procedure is the same. Have a search on UA-cam on replacing the handbrake shoes on the Freelander 2 so you know what to expect. Regards, Brian.

@@TheCADengineer Thank you I am going to do them today!

Hi Dave, The paints are from Auto Colour Direct from ebay, the basecoat blue is 'RENAULT BLEU MAJORELLE BLUE code RPB 2K BASECOAT' You also need the 2K clear topcoat. The basecoat aerosol is 400ml which is enough to do a petrol tank and 2 side covers and the 2K clear coat is a 500ml aerosol which is more than enough. Here is the link. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/145785564057?var=444879798501 Regards, Brian.

Hi, All Tiger Cub's were 200cc with a bore and stroke of 63x64mm and right up to the end of production in the late 60's, and all were 6 volt electrics with positive earth/ground. A lot of owners converted them to 12 volts as the lighting at 6 volts was very poor if you were riding at night. You can fit an alloy big bore cylinder kit for Triumph Tiger Cub that uses a Triumph Trident piston to take it to 230cc, but if you want to go to 250cc you need to also fit the modified crankshaft kit that has a longer stroke, however both kits are aftermarket and nothing to do with the Triumph factory. You may be thinking of the single cylinder BSA Starfire which was 250cc with 12 volt electrics. I have had a couple of Tiger Cub's in the past and still own a 1969 Starfire and the Starfire is a far better bike, however the engine is still copied from Edward Turner's original design of the Cub engine, just 50cc larger and better engineered. Regards, Brian.

Hi Paul, I did look at fitting a Premier pilot as I have a couple of 2 and 3 band jets in my spares box, however drilling the hole would be quite complicated as the jet runs through 90 degrees where the 4 holes in the side of the jet need to be inline with the cross drilling then at the bottom of the hole you need to have a taper to seat at the bottom end of the jet, plus behind the threads you need to drill a plain section for the jets o ring to seal against to stop air being drawn past the threads. I think it can be done, I think that area is the best place for the fuel pilot restriction just before the chamber where the 2 small holes are drilled at the venturi as the carbs with the removable pilot jet above the float bowl seem to need a choke slide fitted for cold start as the restricted fuel flow has a greater distance to be drawn from the vacuum of the venturi and thats why Amal made the change to the pilot jets position on the Premier. Regards, Brian.

@@TheCADengineer thank you for your answer. I was under the impression that the premiere carbs had the pilot jet in the same spot as the carb you drilled out and then punched out the pilot jet. Only difference being the jet is attached to a removable screw. But you say the plumbing is different and would have to be tapered also. Sounds like it's really not worth trying it. I hear you can drill out the plug, clean your pilot jet and tap the drilled hole and screw in a small substitute plug (maybe sealed with yellow Teflon or something. That way you can get to the back part of the pilot jet.( the side you were having an issue with. I believe you covered that in vid. Thanks again. Paul.

@@pauliebots Hi Paul, Regarding re-blanking the holes, I turned up a bit of alli with a slight taper to make the plugs and knocked them into the holes with a smer of Loctite. If I ever need to remove the plugs they will tap out from the other side with the air pilot screw removed, hopefully I won't need to though. Regards, Brian.

Hi Mike, Those numbers are for the early 1967 Daytona's which are Amal Monobloc's, my video is for the later 67 onwards carbs which are Amal Concentrics. The carbs are totally different, the Monobloc (which is fitted to your Daytona) is where the float chamber is part of the main body (one piece carb 'Monobloc') Whereas the Concentric has a removable float chamber where the main jet is concentric with the centre of the removable float chamber. If you search on UA-cam for Amal Monobloc 376 you should find info on stripping, cleaning and adjusting your carbs as they were fitted to lots of different BSA and Triumph's. Regards, Brian.

Hi Mike, the kits are the same for the left or right handed carbs, however on a 1967 Daytona you may have Amal Monobloc carbs not the later Amal Concentric carbs as per my video. They only fitted the Amal Concentrics in the latter part of 1969, before then they were fitted with the earlier Amal Monobloc carbs which are totally different.

Hi Chuck, The plus for you is the pressure side of the pump must working fine as the scavenging section of the pump is overwhelmed as the scavenge section of the pump delivers about 25% more oil flow than the pressure side. I would be looking at some kind of restriction in the oil return side. I would remove the sump plate to make sure there is no restriction in the gauze filter and that there is clearance between the bottom of the suction pipe and the sump plate, also check that you can lift the ball in the suction tube. If all that looks ok then remove the oil pipe manifold from the bottom of the crankcase and make sure there is no restriction in the return line pipework or the elbow that goes into the oil tank. Let us know what you find. Regards, Brian.

I replaced the scavenge anti-siphon valve and checked and cleaned the other anti-siphon valves, blew out all the lines to make sure no clogs, put it back together and restarted it. The return flow is now steady and increasing with rpm. Looks like problem solved. The scavenge valve was very corroded and I'll bet it was not getting good suction on the sump, causing the wet sumping. It was a real bear to change, tried tap and thread and it would not budge. I finally resorted to drilling it out and fitting a new valve with some blue loctite to prevent air leaks. I hope that is the answer! Regards Chuck.

@@chuckhollingsworth4186 Hi Chuck, Looks like you have sorted out the problem, if it's a later version B25 you may have the the drilling and blanking plug in the front of the inner timing case where you can fit a pressure gauge just to what oil pressure you have. (not on the early engines) Regards, Brian.

Hi, With your 12v coils did you measure the ohms value of the primary windings? I was also thinking of using the original 12v coils to keep down the expense, however they would need to be wired in parallel to maintain a good spark, but the ohms resistance of the primary windings on my coils were 4.5 ohms each, this would give a total resistance value of 2.25 ohms for both coils in parallel and the 2.25 ohms at 12 volts gives a current draw through the electronic black box of 5.3 amps, it may have been fine but in the instructions it says the max current draw through the unit should be no more then 5 amps. I also looked at the battery voltage when the bike was running, with no lights switched on and with the engine running at 2,500 rpm, the charge rate at the battery was 14.2 volts, so the 2.25 ohms of the primary windings of my two 12 volt coils at 14.2 volts would have meant I have 6.3 amps running through the electronic black box which may have caused damage, hence opting for the two 6 volt coils wired in series as per the diagram in the instructions. The two 6 volt coils I bought have a primary resistance value of 1.5 ohms each, the the total value in series is 3 ohms, so at 12 volts its drawing 4 amps and at the max charging voltage of 14.2 its 4.7 amps which is inside the recommended value, so hopefully fit and forget with no future issues. Regards, Brian.

@@TheCADengineer Total resistance of my 12v coils which are wired in series not parallel is 9.8 ohms. The Wassell instructions do say 'For road applications two 12 volt coils in series are satisfactory' I initially thought this was a misprint but I also found this in online instructions. According to forums the only downside to 12v coils in series maybe weaker spark under load. Agee that it's probably not a good idea to have them in parallel.

Never thought of a mirror, very ingenious solution.

Hi Dave, I have fitted Boyer, Pazon and Trispark, they all have the pluses and minuses, but like you say; the stator is fully enclosed unlike the Pazon and Boyer where the exposed coils look very vulnerable to damage or condensation, however I think the operating principle is the same and the advance is just down to the air gap of the magnets on the rotor and the iron poles of the 2 coils 'the faster they spin the greater the VPP of the sine wave so the spark happens earlier. Regards, Brian.

Hi John, Thanks for your positive response. Regards, Brian.

Hi, I can't remember what exact model it was from as it was a secondhand purchase, however it maybe from the later B25 oil in frame version which has the box style pressed steel silencer on the right hand side where the exhaust pipe comes on the inside of the frame under the oil tank (1971 BSA B25 OIF version) p/n 71-2176, which would be exactly the same as the TR25 as the the Triumph version was the later B25, but just re-badged with a different shaped fuel tank.

Thanks,really enjoy your videos!

Hi Chuck, I just found the receipt for the secondhand r/h high level exhaust, it's from a BSA B44. I should have remembered as the B44 uses the same frame as the pre oil in frame B25, plus the outside diameter is the same; as is the angle it comes out of the cylinder head. I have just done a slight mod to the pipe about 60mm from the rear end, I cut a 'V' out and bent it in and re-welded so the silencer is closer to the rear shock and not sticking out so much.

Hi Rob, no metric threads on any Triumphs of this era, most fine threads are UNF and course threads are UNC, however some of the engine components have BSF and BSCY threads. Triumph changed some thread forms from BSF/BSCY to UNF/UNC around 1967 and have a mix of the two, BSA did the same although a year or two later, but no metric threads. The Triumph was sold to me as a 1969 bike, however when l got the dating certificate from the Triumph owners club it states the bike was manufactured in December 1968, so the American title that came with the bike states manufactured in 1969, that should really say it was shipped out of the UK in 69 not manufactured. Regards Brian.

@@TheCADengineer To be frank, when I saw the twin leading shoe backplate, and operating mechanism, I thought that it was from 1968. I believe that they only made this style of backplate and operating mechanism for 1968. From 1969 onwards, the front brake cable entered from behind to operate the twin leading shoes. As an aside I have a 1967 Triumph Daytona which was registered in 1969. I never understood that until I got my copy of the dating certificate. Turned out it went to a lucky person in Cyprus first then later returned to the UK in 1969

Hi, That style of 8" twin leading shoe with the vertical pull was fitted to the T100's up to 1973, however there is the same style front brake fitted with a horizontal pull and the only difference is the cast lug for the outer cable and the lever on the second pivot so the cable comes out horizontal. The vertical pull front brake is also exactly the same front brake on the BSA A65's of the same year. I have seen that horizontal pull style drum a couple of times before but can't recall what bike they were fitted to. My T100 went to North América and was imported back to the UK in 2022, it was sold to me as a 1969 as that was what was suggested by the serial/frame number, however when I got the dating cert from The Triumph Owners Club so I could apply for an age related number plate the info said that the bike went out of the Meriden factory between Christmas and New Year 1968. Regards, Brian

Hi Les, You are right l should fit a kill switch, however trying to keep the bike looking as original as possible from the outside, it has the original factory fitted Lucas 31563 combination dip, main and horn handlebar switch and l don’t want to fit anything else that will not look original. On the last two BSA’s that l have done were fitted originally the Wipac Ducon handlebar switch (dip, main and horn) you can swap this switch for the Wipac Tricon which looks exactly the same, but has an extra push button that l use for the engine kill, however Triumph never used the Wipac switch, so no engine kill switch will be fitted on the Daytona, just relying on turning the ignition off if l have an issue. Regards, Brian.

Hi, Should be fine, I have an RM21 stator with a Lucas solid state regulator/rectifier and a lifepo4 battery, so the charge rate is good, however will be doing checks and some testing of the EI system before fitting. Regards, Brian.

Hi Michael, The bike runs on the pilot jet circuits up to 1/4 throttle before the main jets and slide needles takes over, so well worth taking off the carbs and giving them a good clean and blow through the pilot galleries with carb cleaner. A good indicator for a fuel restriction in the pilot circuit is if the splutter is reduced if you keep a bit of choke applied while riding. Just check that the petrol is ok first, especially if it’s E5 or E10 and has been standing the tank for a few months. Also the basic stuff first; like clean and gap the plugs, points gaps and the ignition timing, if all that is fine then carbs off for a good clean. Regards, Brian.

Hi Colin, yes; shifting is now precise up or down. I think my issue was the combination of the two problems l found. It’s not too bad a job to get to the selector mechanism as you only need to remove the outer cover, hopefully yours will be a simple fix and you don’t have to strip the gearbox. Regards Brian