yes that schreader tank fill valve is week. mine failed with very very little use. I'll ccpy your solution. thanks for the video, I find it very informative and well done!
You don't have to do anything this complicated. Just remove the 1/4 hose from the existing manifold, and put a quick-connect tee into the fitting. Then the fill hose goes is one side of the tee, and the outlet hose goes in the other end. Because both sides have quick-connects, no valves are needed.
Not sure why you need a shut off valve in front of a quick connector? Also That is a big lever of parts on that little 1/4 thread. for me a single T with saftey valve and a quick connector is all that's needed.
I was thinking the same thing because i almost did that. I then realized whether the valve is open or closed,the quick connect is preventing air flow. Only reason i could see is if you kept a hose connected all the time but wanted air cut off from entering that tank
What do you usually do with the portable tank, light duty tasks? Going from 1/2" to 1/4" seems like it'll be highly restrictive. It's fine if you only do light duty tasks and don't need to maximize flow. An alternative, in order to maximize air flow, would be to use a 1/2" brass street tee off the tank. This will allow the reuse of the existing relief valve and gauge assembly (will also need a brass hex plug if removing the hose on the assembly). On the other outlet on the tee use a 1/2" to 3/8" brass reducer to a 3/8" valve. Then use the 1/4" reducer for the coupler. Couplers are usually the biggest bottlenecks in air flow, but those 1/4" tees and 1/4" valve will add even more restrictions.
very light duty tasks like top off the air in tires or if i need to stretch it, i have been able to use a finish nailer and trim out a window/door. i wouldn't mind using 1/2" tees and keeping everything as open as possible but those tees are hard to get locally and also a bit pricey. i managed to do all this under $30...
kam Yep, 1/4" will be fine for those tasks. The 1/2" fittings can be tough to find at the usual spots like big box stores, but they're more common at hydraulic, plumbing, HVAC suppliers or Amazon. Regardless of the setup, it works and the other videos on doing this upgrade are proof that there's hundreds of ways to do it since every single one is different lol.
I tried to take mine off. It started to turn then wouldn't turn. Should I heavy hand it and just keep insisting it turns? I have the same tank. Again, the assembly starts to turn and then I can't turn it
i would try to work it back and forth to break anything loose that might be hanging in the thread... if you are loosening it and it's tight, i would back off a little and then loosen again slowly past where you just stopped. keep advancing it slowly. it's possible the factory cross threaded it when they put it on...
OK, I watched your two videos out of order. I plumbed the reserve tank in essentially the same way, except I used a 4 way cross instead of 2 T's. Question: Isn't the coupling for outflow only? Are you able to fill the reserve tank through the coupling and then also have it discharge air back to the tool through the T at the compressor?
You need a lot of strength. Harbor Freight uses industrial glue to keep the manifold in place. I was able to get mine out with a lot of strength on my end.
Thank you for this video. Good information including a parts list. It is very straight forward and to the point (not a lot of fluff that makes most videos too long). I'm doing the same modification and this video really helped.
yes that schreader tank fill valve is week. mine failed with very very little use. I'll ccpy your solution. thanks for the video, I find it very informative and well done!
thanks! this is exactly what I'm looking for. I'm trying to do the same thing and couldn't figure out where to go after removing the tank manifold.
yes, well done video, love how you tell us everything from start to finish
You don't have to do anything this complicated. Just remove the 1/4 hose from the existing manifold, and put a quick-connect tee into the fitting.
Then the fill hose goes is one side of the tee, and the outlet hose goes in the other end. Because both sides have quick-connects, no valves are needed.
Not sure why you need a shut off valve in front of a quick connector? Also That is a big lever of parts on that little 1/4 thread. for me a single T with saftey valve and a quick connector is all that's needed.
I was thinking the same thing because i almost did that. I then realized whether the valve is open or closed,the quick connect is preventing air flow. Only reason i could see is if you kept a hose connected all the time but wanted air cut off from entering that tank
And that tank, has any oulet to drain the water?
What do you usually do with the portable tank, light duty tasks? Going from 1/2" to 1/4" seems like it'll be highly restrictive. It's fine if you only do light duty tasks and don't need to maximize flow. An alternative, in order to maximize air flow, would be to use a 1/2" brass street tee off the tank. This will allow the reuse of the existing relief valve and gauge assembly (will also need a brass hex plug if removing the hose on the assembly). On the other outlet on the tee use a 1/2" to 3/8" brass reducer to a 3/8" valve. Then use the 1/4" reducer for the coupler. Couplers are usually the biggest bottlenecks in air flow, but those 1/4" tees and 1/4" valve will add even more restrictions.
very light duty tasks like top off the air in tires or if i need to stretch it, i have been able to use a finish nailer and trim out a window/door. i wouldn't mind using 1/2" tees and keeping everything as open as possible but those tees are hard to get locally and also a bit pricey. i managed to do all this under $30...
kam Yep, 1/4" will be fine for those tasks. The 1/2" fittings can be tough to find at the usual spots like big box stores, but they're more common at hydraulic, plumbing, HVAC suppliers or Amazon. Regardless of the setup, it works and the other videos on doing this upgrade are proof that there's hundreds of ways to do it since every single one is different lol.
Great video, thank you for sharing your mods, going to do the same thing on my tanks, i do a lot of offroading, so I’m constantly airing up my tires
Cool modification!! Great little video.
I really wish someone made a single unit for doing this.
I tried to take mine off. It started to turn then wouldn't turn. Should I heavy hand it and just keep insisting it turns? I have the same tank. Again, the assembly starts to turn and then I can't turn it
i would try to work it back and forth to break anything loose that might be hanging in the thread... if you are loosening it and it's tight, i would back off a little and then loosen again slowly past where you just stopped. keep advancing it slowly. it's possible the factory cross threaded it when they put it on...
@@kamsgarage Thank you.
@@kamsgarage apply heat.
OK, I watched your two videos out of order. I plumbed the reserve tank in essentially the same way, except I used a 4 way cross instead of 2 T's. Question: Isn't the coupling for outflow only? Are you able to fill the reserve tank through the coupling and then also have it discharge air back to the tool through the T at the compressor?
shouldn't you have a regulator before the gauge in order to regulate the pressure you need for the certain tool you are using?
How in the heck did you get the original manifold out of the bung? I can’t get mine to budge.
You need a lot of strength. Harbor Freight uses industrial glue to keep the manifold in place. I was able to get mine out with a lot of strength on my end.
Thank you for this video. Good information including a parts list. It is very straight forward and to the point (not a lot of fluff that makes most videos too long). I'm doing the same modification and this video really helped.
Can you turn your volume up please.
Filler nozzle is called a Schrader valve- fyi
How do you drain the tank?
good question.
how do you seal the threads?
Unicorn spit works well
You should be using teflon tape even if it doesn't leak.
dude you skipped the whole procedure
Very poor explanation you need to show physically how it's done