Barret's Deck Project - EP 3 - 6" x 6" Simpson Post Bases and Tips!
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- We had a few hours this morning so we high tailed it up to Barret's house to install the 6" x 6" post bases which we bought here amzn.to/2VTwhf2 We share a few tips that make these go in easier. In the next episode we will be starting the framing. We are just working on this periodically between other projects and this will show how you can do this yourself in the same manner.
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The music "The Artisan Way" was written and performed for my channel by my son, Barret. His channel is here / insanedrummer89 Barret writes most of the music for our channel. Thanks son!
I love the "hole " video😂. What sealed it for me, when you said China has already caused enough damage. Great job with teaching the next generation. You both kick ass. 45-47
Haha thanks :)
Great video. Will come in very handy when I build a gazebo on my lawn. Quick question: how deep did you fill the concrete to?
Depth kinda depends on the project, my guess is 2 feet is probably average.
I am putting in a gazebo too and I'll be doing 1 foot deep footers cuz my gazebo is already 500 lb.
but you should check with your local building codes
If you predrill with a smaller diameter masonry bit you won't have to worry about walking plus you will save the bigger more expensive bit.
Any issue setting L or J bolts in the concrete instead of these anchors for the bases?
I like these better because setting J bolts or any bolt in your wet concrete is harder to get them lined up. It's not impossible but as you can see, Barret and I were able to pull a string on the brackets to get them straight. I've been in the business for 45 years and I just like this way better. For a deck it doesn't matter. It might matter if you have a structural detail that calls for embedded J bolts.
@@ArtisanTony thank you. It's for the posts for a patio roof.
What if the area where you're installing the post-base metal piece is not level? You stated you can level it one way. But what if you need to adjust it both to frontwards and sideways?
I have the same question. Did u ever find a solution?
Set the base down, mark and drill the hole for the anchor. Drive the expansion anchor in the hole and before you lay the base down, lay some non-shrink grout to form a new bed for the base. www.homedepot.com/p/Quikrete-50-lb-Non-Shrink-Precision-Grout-158500/100318529 Then gently set the base in the grout and level the base. After the grout sets, come back and install the washer and nut on the anchor. I have done this before and it works well because the concrete footing are always a little lumpy anyway.
Excellent! thank you thank you thank you!
Hey great video! I am mounting to a 6-7” concerete slab. Should I drill all the way through and use a longer red head or should I just drill in 5” and use the 5” red head? Any help would be great. Thank you for you time!
The 5" should be long enough. They have a great holding power. They actually have a chart showing how many thousands of pounds they will resist. They are really strong. Thanks!
Ok great. Thank you for the reply. I just went and picked up the 5” anchor and realized that they are zinc plated. I thought that wasn’t supposed to be used outdoors or at least where it will be wet and damp? Is this not true?
@@evilxt420 Technically it should be galvanized but would take several lifetimes to fail :)
Ah ok I see. What is your thoughts on the galvanized screw anchors that don’t have the wedge? On the packaging for the simpson post base I have it says to use them but I wasn’t sure about them and then I saw you using the wedge. 🤷🏻♂️
@@evilxt420 They are fine just don't over tighten them as the can lose grip if you keep spinning them in the hole.
What if while mounting 6x6 the base hardware moves?
It doesn't because it is bolted down. You would have to hit it hard with a sledged hammer to move it. I have installed thousands of these things :)
I have had a few comments about the post bases we used. These are made by Simpson specifically for this purpose. I have been in the business for 40 years and have been using these for at lease 30 years and have never had anyone come back to me and say they had a failure. Please stop reading reddit posts and using that info to troll real content producers. If you want to criticize someone, get off your ass, create a channel and provide some content to show you know what you are talking about.
There is no material known to man that will last forever. The laws of physics guarantee that. This product will set your post off the ground and provide a good attachment to your footings. It will add many years of life to your deck posts that will otherwise soak up water, yes, even treated lumber wicks water, and most likely you will be pushing up daisies before your posts will have to be replaced. So maybe you will eventually have a reaction between the metal and concrete and 20 years from now you decide to replace them, your posts will still be working fine. That is the point. Are you still a dick for trolling on youtube, yes, :) Be nice to other people, we are hear to help, not provide target practice for your lazy ass reddit group :)
Reddit and other forums are the cesspool of the internet. The more time you spend outside actually doing things the better, Try building and creating something with your life. Sitting at your computer trolling others just makes you a weak minded idiot.
I just came across this video. Good info and you are exactly correct, also treat the end of the lumber helps. If their piers were above ground built to code would help as well...
@@k.p.9990 Their is no code that says you have to have piers above the ground. These footings would have held up a 3 story house :) Been building since 1978, never had a problem.
Woo Hoo!!!
Gotta love building things :)
I just posted, but is there any different strength factors related to the orientation of the standoffs.
In this case I don’t think so. There are some Simpson brackets that have taller legs on them and you could say those are stronger in a direction but here, the posts are so short, I think we are good :)
Thank you
Hey, how thick were your anchors?
1/2" x 6"
Nice. :)
Thanks Richard :)
how long does the concrete need to cure before using the wedge anchors ?
If you are the putting one of these anchors in the middle of a 16" footing, you could do it the next day. If you are flirting with the edge of the concrete (4-6" away from the edge) you need to wait a few days. Of course no one waits the 28 days it takes concrete to cure :) So it depends on how close to the edge you are. That is one reason I like nice big footings. There is a guide you can use that shows the proper distance from the edge based on the anchor you are using. Putting them to close to the edge (unless you are setting them when you pour the concrete) will crack and breakout the concrete. Thanks!
@@ArtisanTony thank you! our contractor said he did not want to fill the holes all the way with concrete so he actually could have used j bolts and use a stand off base, but wants to d a buried footer design instead with the 6x6 sitting directly on the concrete. footer.
@@gerrygerrie7404 If he is your contractor you can request that he do it a certain way. How is the post going to be connected with the footing if he just sets it on the concrete. These Simpson post based are designed to connect the post with the concrete, not just set the post off the concrete. Ask him how he intended to connect the post with the footing? You don't have to fill the holes all the way as long as you have about 8 inches of concrete under the post. Remember, you are the boss, he works for you. Tell him you want him to use a Simpson Post Base Model #ABA66Z He is trying to shortcut the job. Maybe offer him $20 per post to cover the cost of the bases. Tell him a 40 year artisan said so :)
@@ArtisanTony I know right!!?? I have pushed him on it and know there will be added cost, but he is just setting the post on the concrete and filling the rest with dirt. The weight of the platforms and stairs will keep it in place and the dirt packed around the posts will keep it in place from any lateral forces, so no mechanical connection from the posts to the concrete and no 1 inch standoff base. Unfortunately we are in a time crunch and have to stick with him
@@gerrygerrie7404 I hope he is using treated lumber that is approved for ground contact. Not all of it is. I can only try to help people. Not all contractors are artisans. Some are just doing a job and getting paid and don't care about means and methods. It's sad. By the way, "weight" is not considered when figuring uplift forces like those you would get from a hurricane or tornado. Without mechanical connection to footings, uplift can happen.
Nice video..just wondering did you use any epoxy before driving the anchors to the concrete? im planning to use the same adjustable saddle for my deck post but getting second thoughts on the 5" retro fit bolt to use on my upper level deck (post is about 7 feet high). Home Depot gave me the 5/8" x 5" HDG retro fit bolt to use but not sure if it is enough for uplift and dowload loads. Appreciate any input on this. thanks
You don't need epoxy with expansion anchors. Just make sure you drill the correct size whole for the anchor you are using. Take the nut and set it flush with the top of the bolt and use that to tap the anchor in the hole. Once you smug the nut down you are good.
@@ArtisanTony oh i see. you are using expansion anchors instead of just a retro fit bolt. may i know the brand and model you use for your expansion anchor? Thanks
@@markj7176 We use Red Head 1/2" x 4 1/2" expansion wedge anchors for decks. www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-Strong-Bolt-1-2-in-x-4-1-4-in-Zinc-Plated-Wedge-Anchor-25-Pack-STB2-50414R25/300591990?MERCH=REC-_-pipsem-_-100201816-_-300591990-_-N
Are wedge anchors and expansion anchors the same thing?
Just used this method myself, something I am kicking myself for is I just discovered that the use of the anchors that you are using are incorrect.. by that I mean the coating. Zinc coated will rust.. I have already completed my deck and I did the same thing and I’m kicking myself for this. Temping to redo all the posts. It has been 3 months since I placed posts and the anchors are already rusted. I’d bet by now yours are rusted pretty badly. The PT in the lumber and presence of copper also creates galvanic corrosion. I know the posts do not touch the bolt but I wonder if just being close to it matters? Just for thought. If you happen to get froggy and want to crawl under that thing and inspect them to see how bad they are rusted, I would love to know.
Thanks for all the help dad! Gunna be cool to say me and my dad built my deck.
We should just do the whole thing :)
Loved this video and the sense of humor. Good way to make work easier. Thank you sir for the great tips.
Thanks :)
Very helpful video. Thank you.
Thanks much!
How do those anchors work on a slant surface?
Who pours concrete on a slant? :) These anchors are to resist uplift and I am not sure I would trust the shear. I am curious what type of situation you would have on a "slant" We normally pour concrete level even if the grade is sloped. Not a good idea to poor it slanted.
@@ArtisanTony My contractor is going to build a fence on an existing concrete slanted driveway and he will end up cutting the wood on a slant.
@@citticat2 put the fence in the dirt beside the driveway :)
@@citticat2 also, you will need a different post base for a fence that will give more lateral bracing.
@@ArtisanTony lol
What type of anchor did you use?
They were 1/2" x 5" expansion anchors.
@@ArtisanTony What coating would you recommend for that application? Zinc / hot-dipp galv.?
@@aggie7756 Simpson makes these specifically for this application so they will havr the appropriate finish on them.