The Yellow Spur 5.10 - Eldorado Canyon, CO
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- Опубліковано 17 вер 2024
- It's Friday, July 1st at 3:00am, my paid leave has just reset for the fiscal year, and I am on my way to the airport. Upon arriving in Denver, I took a city bus driven by the friendly Jonathan Jones towards downtown Boulder. Along the way we made many stops and nature was calling. I had chugged an entire Nalgene in front of a TSA agent because I forgot to dump it out before going through security. Eventually I could not fight the pump and I asked Mr. Jones if there was a restroom at the next stop. He said yes, but the restroom is for employees only. With Jonathan's personal RTD ID in hand, I sprinted to the restroom. Rest was found.
Five minutes later we arrived in Boulder. Here I planted my Marmot toting bum on a public bench. It's still early here, all of the stores are closed and half of the Boulder people are jogging around on pavement in La Sportiva trail runners. I figured I must be on some sort of famous bench based on all of the looks I was receiving. But don't judge me too long Boulder people, because I was about to be picked up by a Tesla. A stranger from an online forum by the name of "Scott Boulder" responded to my desperate belay request, promising a ride and a catch. We auto piloted to the crag.
The Eldorado Springs road is still cratered out more than our moon.
Friday mornings here are a juxtaposition. There are no crowds, so you want to feel calmness, but the raging South Boulder Creek brings the loud mental anxiety that you get when you accidentally lean your chair back too far. Fortunately the hellish slog (for an Okie) to the Redgarden Towers takes you away from the violent river and closer to the song birds.
The Yellow Spur is what you're told to climb after you conga your way up The Bastille Crack. I was given this opportunity about a year ago, but I misread the rapture closures and went to climb the horrifying route, Calypso, instead. Being back now and more literate than ever, I felt more than up to the task. In fact, I was carrying some pride and sought a challenge. I wanted to onsight every pitch and I wanted to do both 5.10 variations. After 30 minutes of knowing Scott, I handed him my end of the rope and took off and up.
Three hours later, I reached the incredible summit of Tower One and took in the canyon. I was absolutely on fire. I had just onsighted six pitches on foreign stone, off of the couch (that I didn't even get enough sleep on.) I had an incredible adventure before lunch, and I got to experience it all with the perfect belay slinging, internet forum reading, and all around good human being, Scott. Thanks man.
We parted ways at the weird Eldorado Corner Market where I went in and took an arm bath in their sink, filled up on tap water, and got an ice cream sandwich. I stepped out into the blistering sun and my frozen snack began to melt. I high tailed it to the first shade I could find. The smokers section. Here I planted my Marmot toting bum on on ground and leaned up against the cool building. No Boulder people in view to judge, just me, a fence, and a 5 gallon bucket being used as an ash tray.
Humbled and bloated, I worked up the financial courage to hail an Uber to escort me to the pizza place where I planned to meet my Oklahomies. Under the Sun promptly sat me outside (probably because I stunk and was dragging my 75L pack.) Back on a bench, but this time it had a table top, luxurious. After a few sun burning minutes a lovely waitress came up to my table. I was still bloated but I was ready to order. She kindly said, "I'm sorry, but our outdoor seating is for guests only."
Did she not see my Arc'teryx guide shirt?
After many apologies, they fed me and when my friends arrived, they fed them too. They even offered us a mushroom sandwich that another table didn't want. It wasn't very good.
That night we soloed the 1000' 5.6 on the First Flat Iron and went to bed spinning and smiling. Because tomorrow we were heading to the Diamond.
One of my favorite climbs in Eldorado!
Don't thread a sling through a wired nut. I saw one cut right through 1 inch tubular webbing on a lead fall in the Gunks.
ua-cam.com/video/DLsbRwKQP-U/v-deo.htmlsi=7p-HNmGrGovjcPGi
That's more of a proper multidirectional. Or at least toss a carabiner on it if you have a poor stance. As the other person said, I've seen slings get cut on wires as well.
Thats always an enjoyable route in eldo, climb safe and have fun!
I noticed that also.
That final run out must have been pretty pucker-inducing. Epic send, tho, and equally epic write up!
Thank you! I never know if people read the descriptions haha
Nice Vid!
FROG - From Ray Olson's Garage
Thank you! So cool
the definition of when in doubt, run it out! great climb man. loved the views on this one
This description had me rolling -- from waiting around in Boulder to the description of Calypso. Knack for writing. Nice touch to the video
I sure miss Ray the Frog. I climbed with him a lot back in the 80s.
That’s awesome! I’m jealous
Nicely done, Grahm! The exposure seemed pretty crazy!
I got a chance to follow a local up Yellow Spur two weeks ago. The whole thing is a ball, but that sequence at 18 minutes was as fun as climbing gets.
This looks so fun
First time i did Yellow Spur was pre friend days. And, when ropes were 50 meters long
nice job- amazing exposure at the end as it narrowed!
Thanks! It’s an incredible climb!
love it
I've done this route 3X and is a wonderful experience. I hate these helmet cam views while climbing.
People really put webbing through wire nut!...WOW
Sometimes you do something you know is wrong because it’s just too fun!
Yellow spur is 5.9+, not 5.10
I did two variation 5.10 pitches ✨