Climbing Devil's Tower via El Matador 5.10d
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- Опубліковано 10 вер 2024
- On a Memorial Day smash and grab, the four of us hauled it up to 15 hours through Kansas, Nebraska, and South Dakota to the famed Devils Tower. 1,000 miles, the midwesterners way. Our first look at the tower was well after dark but its silhouette still rose dauntingly in the starlight. A headlamp was flickering about 100’ from the summit. Thirty minutes go by and it hasn’t moved. “That’ll be us tomorrow.” John says as we set our sleeping bags out of some crash pads. I second guess leaving my headlamp in the car as I drift off to sleep.
Freaking Lane wakes us up donut shop early for some invalid reason. But we got to see first light on the top portion of the tower which was outstandingly orange. I slam some leftover pizza as we check the weather. Rain tomorrow, everywhere. So we commit to doing double today, El Matador and something you might be seeing soon..
That second pitch is probably the most physical 5.10 pitch i've ever done. I was SO worked by the time i got to the belay. Well done boys.
Many people think this is easy. Not me! 5.11a/b I think.
Devils Tower is one of the coolest rock features ever.
It’s outstanding! We walked backwards back to the car so we could continue gawking at it
That second pitch looked burly! Great lead by John!
I was stoked I got to follow it! Haha
Trad is clearly the superior discipline
Why
Because it rocks!
Gnarly route dude! The rock looks insanely hard on the skin.
Loving the videos, keep em coming!
Thank you! It really bites in some of those finger cracks. And that’s the plan!
Damn pigeon, cooing at the start of the 1st pitch. That took me back to the tower instantly! Had to laugh! Great that you boys bagged this one! Splendid post.
They are a staple out there! 🤣 I appreciate it!
Great stuff thanks for sharing. I wanted this in the 1990s. Keep it up. Love your stuff.
I really appreciate it! More to come!
wow this rock face is gorgeous, looks like a dream
Fantastic place, worth the drive
Nice climb. Love the first person view
as bad as bull riding , simply nuts and I absolutely love it . good job guys b careful
Glad you’re stoked! It’s the best thing
Ya’all are some crazy MF’ers!!!!! Badass video!!!
Very cool!!! Well done!!!
Nice work boys! That thing is such a beauty.
Those hand jams look blissful. Nice work.
Very cool!
what possibly motivates oneself to do this stuff? I am an adrenaline junkie as bad as the next guy but this takes that to an entirely new level. your loco ,
According to the book “vertical mind” most climbers are motivated by challenge/accomplishment, fitness, spending time with others, and the joy of movement. This route ticks the movement and challenge boxes for me and it’s also the coolest way I could imagine appreciating this stunning landmark. There’s also an interesting new thought that adrenaline and climbing don’t go together. Only when things go wrong should adrenaline kick in, otherwise climbing should be a dance. But I’m not sure I’ve mastered that balance yet!
For someone who can't stem for anything, this looks like hell.
Some people climb the left crack the entire way!
Sick climbing guys!
Great climb guys! Love your videos since i dont get to go out much anymore and youre always climbing something interesting.
This climb looks amazing
I know it's a dumb question but how do you get down? Just climb down?
Id reach the almost top, jam my fingers in and the whole column would separate; from the top of the tower to the base...
I'd love to see you place more nuts and chocks and quit trusting cams so much, because honestly you pass up a ton of fast, reliable nut placements and make a lot of untrustworthy cam placements. Talking not just about location but direction they'll be loaded if you fall. They are tools, not gadgets. They're not good just because they stay put when you stick 'em in the crack. I'm old enough to be your grandpa so I don't care if this makes you mad because I'm only concerned about your safety and survival. Point cams in the direction they'll be loaded in a fall and carry some longer runners for placements that could spin when the rope goes tight, so they'll stay pointed the right way and also reduce your rope drag. Elementary stuff that you probaby know but don't always practice. You climb like a charging bull and most of your cam placements are angled away from the fall line or even stuck in almost horizontally in verical cracks. Then you usually clip that directly or just hang a draw or short runner on it. Someday you're gonna pump off of something hard and take a terrifying fall, if you haven't yet. Please don't be that guy who gets hurt or dies because his cams unzipped. And when you see a good wire placement, use it even if you don't think you need it right then. It backs up your whole system and in the worst-case scenario, one solid wire nut placement can keep you alive and/or off the deck. Maybe your partner too. I hope you have a long, successful climbing career like I did. I'm done now but I still climb vicariously through watching young folks like you. Be smart and stay alive.
Good honest toil.
Yeah i know Mike Hawk, pretty sure he’s Tony’s brother
Any thoughts about people who think it's a tree stump?
Epic!
The summit is indeed any New England field
Kind of like the north face of half pk or the face of the Wetterhorn w/ o the altitude of colorado
The way the cam at 6.50 came out, looked like ot might not have held!@!
It’s an old tree stump!!
Loved telling tourists that the thing was hollow and full of water.
Rip lane
🥺🚮
climb that peak laddy
Spikey Ice Boots woulda healped
What is that clanging noise?😂
Water bottle!
Was hoping you were climbing with a pony keg for the summit.😎
The truth about Devils Tower is. Devils Tower is a pre flood tree stump from Noah's time .
👍👏👏👏
Underwear to see
how tyhe fuck do they trust the things that hold the ropes?? That ould never leave my mind. What if it slips out of that crack? It doesnt even seem that secure
Painful to watch. Slow down, breathe, and relax.
Its a Jug Fest...
Bolt it!
JK
Honestly mate...learn to control your breathing and don't be such a drama queen.....I would suggest a read of 'The Rock Warrior's Way' by Arno Ilgner :)
Lame
Very cool! I needed to do DT….🐺🙏👊🧗♀️
It’s a fantastic tower!