Thanks for the quick breakdown. Whats the most common failures on these units that you've seen? Any tips for maintenance and upkeep with these specifically?
Annual coil cleaning, drain cleaning, clean debris and insect nests out of the upper unit and keeping your intake filters clean. Most common failure I see is blower motors and capacitors.
Where is the condensate drain and how do you clean it . Every video that I see on all ACs you have to take the coil out and the pan is underneath, but looking at mine it looks like it’s put in with rivets and I see no way to take it out.
I got to the self-serve car wash and use the high-pressure rinse and spray water into the coils in the back from about 10 feet away. Keeps them clean and clears out the dust and dirt on the inside as well.
Overload protector that is in it went bad, is there one on Amazon that is better than the other since the one in it is either has a crazy cost of takes weeks to get... Thanks for your help...
I believe they meant the high limit temperature switch you referred to on the compressor. I have to replace mine to on my Dometic 13500 Brisk ll. I purchased my trailer private sale and had no manuals. Can you tell me what one l need. So l can check if Amazon has an aftermarket one. Thanks for the videos!!
@@MRRVTECH thanks. I didnt want to overload the breakers by adding a larger unit. I find very little on amps drawn per difference in size. Who do you feel is the better units out there? I've used dometic is all
Honestly they are all cheaply manufactured and only expected to last 2 years. I don't have a preference, I've had the same amount of trouble across all brands.
@@MRRVTECH I need to replace my ac on a 2012 Forest River Crusader 5rh wheel I see all these Dometic ACs on Amazon. How do I choose the one which will connect into my existing Thermostat? Will any/all of them fit? I do have all the numbers on the current unit written down I farmed all my life and did all the mechanics work, so no problem there.
Where is the condensate drain and how do you clean it . Every video that I see on all ACs you have to take the coil out and the pan is underneath, but looking at mine it looks like it’s put in with rivets and I see no way to take it out.
I do not recommend that you try to lift or move the coil, it could result in rupturing a refrigerant line. I've used multiple methods including paper towels taped to a dowel rod, a mcdonalds straw taped to my shopvac hose....etc. the drains are located underneath at each side of the evaporator tray. Typically I will use a 90 degree dental pic to poke them from underneath. Coil cleaner will break up the algae pretty well, usually after coil cleaner and poking the drain holes clear, I'll rinse the tray with a hose or a couple bottles of water until I see a steady flow from both drain holes. Hope this helps!
How do I get to the condensate drain pan inside this unit. Can not find any videos on how to remove the pan and clean it? Can you help me?
Thanks for the quick breakdown. Whats the most common failures on these units that you've seen? Any tips for maintenance and upkeep with these specifically?
Annual coil cleaning, drain cleaning, clean debris and insect nests out of the upper unit and keeping your intake filters clean. Most common failure I see is blower motors and capacitors.
how do I remove my fan blades? I cannot get to the 5/16th screw to unbolt the actual fan /:
@Thirdemvis I remove the whole motor with blades attached, then measure and remove the blades, install them on the new one and reinstall the motor.
Where is the condensate drain and how do you clean it . Every video that I see on all ACs you have to take the coil out and the pan is underneath, but looking at mine it looks like it’s put in with rivets and I see no way to take it out.
I got to the self-serve car wash and use the high-pressure rinse and spray water into the coils in the back from about 10 feet away. Keeps them clean and clears out the dust and dirt on the inside as well.
Overload protector that is in it went bad, is there one on Amazon that is better than the other since the one in it is either has a crazy cost of takes weeks to get... Thanks for your help...
What's an overload protector?
I believe they meant the high limit temperature switch you referred to on the compressor. I have to replace mine to on my Dometic 13500 Brisk ll. I purchased my trailer private sale and had no manuals. Can you tell me what one l need. So l can check if Amazon has an aftermarket one. Thanks for the videos!!
Back side of condensor coil is dirty. Need to get the dirt brushed off the coil before spraying it with cleaner but the space is tight. Any tips?
Remove the shroud, I believe there are 4-5 small 5/16" sheet metal screws holding it on.
@@MRRVTECH thank you!
would you put a 15000 btu unit onto a 30amp trailer?? currently running a 13500btu system. thanx
Yes
@@MRRVTECH thanks. I didnt want to overload the breakers by adding a larger unit. I find very little on amps drawn per difference in size. Who do you feel is the better units out there? I've used dometic is all
Honestly they are all cheaply manufactured and only expected to last 2 years. I don't have a preference, I've had the same amount of trouble across all brands.
@@MRRVTECH thanks. I appreciate your opinion. I see they have Advant ones for half the price of dometic but both look like the same technology really
@@MRRVTECH I need to replace my ac on a 2012 Forest River Crusader 5rh wheel
I see all these Dometic ACs on Amazon. How do I choose the one which will connect into my existing Thermostat? Will any/all of them fit?
I do have all the numbers on the current unit written down
I farmed all my life and did all the mechanics work, so no problem there.
Where is the condensate drain and how do you clean it . Every video that I see on all ACs you have to take the coil out and the pan is underneath, but looking at mine it looks like it’s put in with rivets and I see no way to take it out.
I do not recommend that you try to lift or move the coil, it could result in rupturing a refrigerant line. I've used multiple methods including paper towels taped to a dowel rod, a mcdonalds straw taped to my shopvac hose....etc. the drains are located underneath at each side of the evaporator tray. Typically I will use a 90 degree dental pic to poke them from underneath. Coil cleaner will break up the algae pretty well, usually after coil cleaner and poking the drain holes clear, I'll rinse the tray with a hose or a couple bottles of water until I see a steady flow from both drain holes. Hope this helps!