Thank you for sharing your knowledge. The video was essential for me to be able to make the necessary repairs on my 2002 BMW 320i 2.2 24v. My name is RaGe and I live in Brazil, on the southern border with Argentina, Paraguay and Uruguay
Thanks for the video! It helped a lot. I like when you also gave the torque specs too. I also watched your alternator removal video as well which was also great. Because of you I got my new alternator, belt and pulley kit from FCP Euro based upon your recommendation
I removed the belt on the alternator side and the size on mine tensioner pulley has 8mm hex instead of t50. I changed the steering pulley as the rest round fine appreciating some resistance but that one on the steering presented cracked at the edges… I replaced it with a new bmw oem pulley
Hi Sean. Just a quick question. Aren't you afraid that your car will overheat since you downspeed the water pump? My car is overheating even with a new radiator (truth be told it's an aftermarket one, but the old OEM one was no better). All of the other cooling system parts are brand new (pump, thermostat, hoses). So I thought that S54s have really high cooling demands. So how's your experience with these pulleys?
Hi, Could someome explain the reason behind him loosening the 10mm and 13 bolts on the other pulleys before pulling the tensioner to remove the belt? Im not sure if that step is really needed or not.
hi bro this vids helps alot, and can you make a vids on how to replace window trim molding, my quarter window rubber piece that connect with window trim is in bad shape want to replace it but don't know how.
I was hesitant to change the water pump pulley but did a ton of research: many race teams use it and I know people who use it with no issues overheating whatsoever. You should definitely NOT upgrade the crank pulley.
Will Iam installation is the reverse as removal. Check the belt diagrams and follow it. Or take a picture before you remove the belt so you know the direction it goes. Relieve tension from the belt system via tensioner pulley. Then place the belt in the way that it goes. Hope this helps.
@@Spaginni put a hex key in the pulley on the hydraulic tensioner and turn it clockwise. this will compress the tensioner and allow the belt to be put on.
Too much money! Let's put it this way, I could have easily bought a used E9X M3 by now and I'm close to buying a used F80 M3/M4. Way too much money but it's a legit track car. :-)
SeanS54 I bought one for 3500 with 250k miles on it but the previous owner took care of it maintenance wise. He only commuted with it. Sold it for profit and because of all the work (money) that needed to make it a track/street car. Loved the car and it's hard to find another one here in the bay area in good condition. Ended up getting a 135i n54 stick shift and love it so far but it doesn't feel like an e46 m3. I'm a BMW tech btw the f80/f82 is a really fast car (on straights) but not as fast at the track. My coworker has an s2k (track car & supercharged) and had an f80 and said the bmw was slower at thunderhil or Laguna seca. Your e46 m3 should be faster at the track as is. Thank you for the videos they are really informative. My question is what are you planning on doing with the 335i, are you still going to track it or just use it as a commuter? Not sure what I wanna do with mine since I'm worried about cooling mostly.
Great post! I really like the look of the F8X M's and the power is intriguing. I'm not surprised the supercharged S2K is faster, I owned and built a S2K track car previously (for a short period). Lighter cars do really well on track and the S2K weighs about 2800 lbs stock and my E46 M3 weighs 2900 lbs currently. I know I can shave a few more seconds on my lap times with more seat time and of course slicks. Along with having a light car, a lot of power is nice to have (GT4, GT3, Z06, C7, etc). As for the N54... my N54 335i (stick shift) was heavily modified with all M3 suspension bits, upgraded LSD, coilovers, brakes, etc. Specifically for cooling I did a CSF radiator, huge Setrab oil cooler w/ custom thermostat, 7" FMIC, vented hood and it still overheated on track! On 70 degree days at Laguna I would still overheat! The N54 is not meant to be seriously tracked. There are 335i N54 race car builds on the forums with dual oil coolers and they still overheat. The 335i is a great DD (massive torque) and occasional track car but don't waste your time and money trying to make it a contender. My E46 M3 with less power and less weight smokes my highly modified 335i on track.
SeanS54 wow after months of research that's the conclusion I didn't like to hear for the n54 platform but thank you for verifying that because I wanted to do the same. I'm really surprised because the 1M has the exact same engine I believe which supposed to be "made" for the track. I'll just do more seat time for a while and learn the car more then hopefully by then I find an e46 m3.
No worries, glad I could help. I think the 1M has an additional small radiator and also BMW's magic sauce. LOL My E46 M3 has never over heated on track, which allows me to complete my sessions. In my 335i, halfway through the session it would go into limp mode so I never really got good seat time.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. The video was essential for me to be able to make the necessary repairs on my 2002 BMW 320i 2.2 24v. My name is RaGe and I live in Brazil, on the southern border with Argentina, Paraguay and Uruguay
Thank thank thank you!!! None of the other videos showed this exact model! I really appreciate you making this video! It was so easy to fix!
Thanks for the video! It helped a lot. I like when you also gave the torque specs too. I also watched your alternator removal video as well which was also great. Because of you I got my new alternator, belt and pulley kit from FCP Euro based upon your recommendation
why change to a bigger Pulleys?
I removed the belt on the alternator side and the size on mine tensioner pulley has 8mm hex instead of t50. I changed the steering pulley as the rest round fine appreciating some resistance but that one on the steering presented cracked at the edges… I replaced it with a new bmw oem pulley
Nice vid, this will be on the to-do list for me.
Great idea. It's a "justifiable" mod. LOL
Hi Sean. Just a quick question. Aren't you afraid that your car will overheat since you downspeed the water pump? My car is overheating even with a new radiator (truth be told it's an aftermarket one, but the old OEM one was no better). All of the other cooling system parts are brand new (pump, thermostat, hoses). So I thought that S54s have really high cooling demands. So how's your experience with these pulleys?
Hi, Could someome explain the reason behind him loosening the 10mm and 13 bolts on the other pulleys before pulling the tensioner to remove the belt? Im not sure if that step is really needed or not.
I came here for the a/c tensioner pulley but learned a lot more about the other pulleys and upgrades😀
Perfect timing! Good vid
Thanks!
I took a shot every time he said pulley. Ambulance is on the way.
nice video. some good camera angles. would have been nice to see you remove the oem fan but still. video is great.
My idler puller seized on my e46 M3 today can I use one from my e36 till I get it in the mail?
very nice. Hey did you need a larger belt from stock yeah?
How do you torque the alternator pulley nut?
Alô, good job
O haver do tho the same in my car, and my mecanic want to instal INA material, they are good .?
hi bro this vids helps alot, and can you make a vids on how to replace window trim molding, my quarter window rubber piece that connect with window trim is in bad shape want to replace it but don't know how.
Thanks Tam! Mine are in good shape now so I won't be replacing them anytime soon. I think someone made a video about it though.
the bigger pump wheel is not a good idea
I was hesitant to change the water pump pulley but did a ton of research: many race teams use it and I know people who use it with no issues overheating whatsoever. You should definitely NOT upgrade the crank pulley.
How do you get the belt on!!! Everyone skips that part.
Will Iam installation is the reverse as removal. Check the belt diagrams and follow it. Or take a picture before you remove the belt so you know the direction it goes. Relieve tension from the belt system via tensioner pulley. Then place the belt in the way that it goes. Hope this helps.
@@christiancern4275 haha 😆😂 ok smart ass. Hydraulic belt tensioner. How do you compress it to reset the belt. I'll WAIT.
@@Spaginni put a hex key in the pulley on the hydraulic tensioner and turn it clockwise. this will compress the tensioner and allow the belt to be put on.
Too much tension, hex bit slips out and/or strips. Two handed job. Can't get wifie to stick her hand in there.
How much money have you spent to get all these parts since you bought the car not including labor lol?
Too much money! Let's put it this way, I could have easily bought a used E9X M3 by now and I'm close to buying a used F80 M3/M4. Way too much money but it's a legit track car. :-)
SeanS54 I bought one for 3500 with 250k miles on it but the previous owner took care of it maintenance wise. He only commuted with it. Sold it for profit and because of all the work (money) that needed to make it a track/street car. Loved the car and it's hard to find another one here in the bay area in good condition. Ended up getting a 135i n54 stick shift and love it so far but it doesn't feel like an e46 m3. I'm a BMW tech btw the f80/f82 is a really fast car (on straights) but not as fast at the track. My coworker has an s2k (track car & supercharged) and had an f80 and said the bmw was slower at thunderhil or Laguna seca. Your e46 m3 should be faster at the track as is. Thank you for the videos they are really informative. My question is what are you planning on doing with the 335i, are you still going to track it or just use it as a commuter? Not sure what I wanna do with mine since I'm worried about cooling mostly.
Great post! I really like the look of the F8X M's and the power is intriguing. I'm not surprised the supercharged S2K is faster, I owned and built a S2K track car previously (for a short period). Lighter cars do really well on track and the S2K weighs about 2800 lbs stock and my E46 M3 weighs 2900 lbs currently. I know I can shave a few more seconds on my lap times with more seat time and of course slicks. Along with having a light car, a lot of power is nice to have (GT4, GT3, Z06, C7, etc).
As for the N54... my N54 335i (stick shift) was heavily modified with all M3 suspension bits, upgraded LSD, coilovers, brakes, etc. Specifically for cooling I did a CSF radiator, huge Setrab oil cooler w/ custom thermostat, 7" FMIC, vented hood and it still overheated on track! On 70 degree days at Laguna I would still overheat! The N54 is not meant to be seriously tracked. There are 335i N54 race car builds on the forums with dual oil coolers and they still overheat. The 335i is a great DD (massive torque) and occasional track car but don't waste your time and money trying to make it a contender. My E46 M3 with less power and less weight smokes my highly modified 335i on track.
SeanS54 wow after months of research that's the conclusion I didn't like to hear for the n54 platform but thank you for verifying that because I wanted to do the same. I'm really surprised because the 1M has the exact same engine I believe which supposed to be "made" for the track. I'll just do more seat time for a while and learn the car more then hopefully by then I find an e46 m3.
No worries, glad I could help. I think the 1M has an additional small radiator and also BMW's magic sauce. LOL
My E46 M3 has never over heated on track, which allows me to complete my sessions. In my 335i, halfway through the session it would go into limp mode so I never really got good seat time.