Making a Pancake Leather Holster, Kimber Solo
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- Опубліковано 26 січ 2017
- This video demonstrates my process of making a pancake holster for the Kimber Solo Carry. I start off by making the pattern, including how I dissect the pattern into individual pattern pieces. Then I demonstrate the entire assembly process, from cutting out the leather, to burnishing, sewing, forming, then final finishing.
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Wickett & Craig - I typically order their "Tooling/Holster/Carving" vegetable tanned leather. I purchase their "Standard" grade, and I request that they split it down from a thicker hide so the back is as clean as possible. I normally order 7-8 ounce for holsters, 3-4 ounce if I'm lining a holster (I build the whole thing out of 3-4 ounce), and either 3-4 or 4-5 ounce for wallets, journal covers, etc... They will allow you to purchase individual hides
Herman Oak - While I love the leather I've gotten from Wickett & Craig, I prefer the warmer coloring of natural Herman Oak. Unfortunately, H.O. requires you to buy leather in bulk from the tannery, and buying from distributors can be hit & miss. Springfield Leather sells "Herman Oak Premium Belt Bend", so I’ve been using this lately.
The Leather Guy - I don't have a lot of experience with this leather, but the "Artisan's Choice" leather I've used has been very nice. The coloration is similar to Wickett & Craig. The thing I really like about The Leather Guy's website is that nearly every single hide shown on their site is a listing for the actual hide you'll be buying, complete with photos and a description of blemishes for that particular hide. Very cool that they do that!
District Leather - I've never personally ordered from them, but I've heard good things about their leather.
Acadia Leather - I've never purchased from here either, but I've also heard good things about their leather.
Horween Leather - At the risk of sounding repetitive, here's another I've never ordered from, but their leather is very well known.
Weaver Leathercraft - Most of what I order from weaver is buckles and tools, but they also sell leather.
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Those two colors together blew my mind. Work of art.
Thanks! Came out pretty nice, if I do say so myself. Thank you for watching & commenting!
Your design techniques are amazing. I love how you build the pattern. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks! And thanks for watching!
Awesome videos! No wind, no explaining or justifying yourself. Just showing fast how it's done! Thanks!
Thanks! And thanks for watching!
A true work of art right there. Awesome video brother.
Thank you! I appreciate it, and thanks for watching!
Excellent video!!!
Glad you liked it!
Love that click
Nice! Thanks Eric!
My pleasure! Thanks for watching!
When i saw the way you did the stencil i friked out! i'll try To use that tecnic in following projects.Thanks a lot!
Cool, thanks for watching!
Eric Adams thank you for sharing your knowledge 😜
You are a joy to watch. Looks like my DB9 might fight that?
Thanks for sharing video U.S.A. Iowa
You inspired me. I copied your video and made my first holster! Thank you!!!
Sir you are really great worker sir
As a holster maker just starting out this is amazing too me. Such art in these videos
I'm just upset I'm just now finding this page...
Thanks for watching! Feel free to contact me through my website if I can answer any questions. www.adamsleatherworks.com
Seu trabalho é exatamente...👍👍👍
awesome!
Thanks! :)
Cool!
Thank you!
Mr. Adams sir...... thank you so very much for sharing this with us. Great job.... 👍🏼
Two things: First, In the video description the link for the roughing tool and the straight edge ruler 📏 are the same.
Second: Have you created any videos covering your pattern making techniques...? I’m going to check but, it would be an awesome series. It’s great to watch and to understand why and how would put it over the top...... Thanks once again and may you be blessed. Please stay healthy and take care. Warmest Regards C J
Omg. Thank goodness. Finely a letter holsters that covers the whole trigger gard and not just most of it. I see all the time these really nice let her holsters that took a lot of work and they don't even cover the whole trigger gard. If I can get my finger in that little spot at the back of the trigger gard that's not Coverd and pull the trigger then the holster is crap. !!
Aloha, what size slot punch are you using on this holster? Looks like some of the Texas Custom Dies I get. Thanks
what is the knife that has the adjustable screw on the side ? I believe it said Husky, but I can't find it any ware. great video by the way very helpful the holster looks great. thanks
Hello! Perfect your work, I liked it a lot. would you make this holster for a Taurus G2C with a Valkyrie PL-Mini 2 flashlight? if so, how much would it cost? I am a resident of Brazil.
What is your set up to do vacume forming?
What’s the purpose of the extra piece you cut? The piece that the red piece is laid on? You cut it out and marked it out on the outer part of the holster and then laid the red piece on top of of it. What’s it’s purpose and why didn’t you use it on the finished holster?
Thanks for what you do. I have learned a lot from your videos. Keep the videos coming so I can keep learning.
Thank you
Robert
Which measurement did you use for the width of the slide?
Just an observation and I could be way off but the belt knockouts don't appear to be parallel? Would this not effect how it rides and wears?
Hey, nice leather craft. I m wondering what are the 2 last coat (finish) you put on your leather? Thanks ;)
Thanks for watching! The last two steps were a light coating of pure neetsfoot oil, then a good coat of acrylic sealer. For my sealer, I use a 50/50 mix of water and Fiebing's Resolene.
Excellent video. A verbal instruction as to technique would have helped a lot. What kind of hardener, sealer ext.... did you use?
I know this is super late but the oil looks like Neetsfoot oil and the sealer looked like Fiebings Acrylic Resolene.
What maker / model of scratch awl are you using? The one in your videos with the blue and gray handle, also what weight is the maul that you use with your punch tools? Loving your informative videos, Please keep up the great instructional videos!
Hi Brian - my apologies for the slow response. The scratch awl is a Kobalt pick that I attacked with my bench grinder to shorten & re-sharpen. The maul, I believe, is 1 pound. Thanks for watching!
Я Кобуры только под свой макаров делаю.
Иногда кто то закажет
Сделаю.
Какой толщены кожу используете?
Я делаю свои кобуры из трех миллиметровой кожи.
Let's see a Walther ppk s. 22lr holster. Thanks. What are your prices if you sell
Eric I love your videos and your work. I was wondering why that your belt slots are not parallel? I try and watch every video I can to get better at holster making and that seems to be one of the so called rules. Just wondering, thank you. Please keep making your videos.
Hi Steven - thanks for the support! I can't prove one way or the other, or at least I've never tried, but I tend to think having them angled outward helps to pull the grip a little closer to the body. It may not help at all. On smaller guns, angling the trailing slot can help lower the gun a little lower on the belt by pushing the top edge of the belt slot outward, which helps keep that grip clearance offset open. Does that make sense?
hey Eric, great tutorial...I am wondering what brand veg tan are you using here. Thanks and keep up the awesome work
Thank you! I believe I was using Wickett & Craig on this one.
What is that you're using as a finish? Looks like olive oil?
Adam, what is it you put on the leather stitches before hammering? And what is the purpose? Thanks for these tutorials. I have bought many patterns from your website. Definitely helps having a pattern that works to start with. Again thanks
Thanks for your continued support and business! I am planning on going back and adding annotations to the video to clarify stuff like that. Just have to decide if I want to do it with UA-cam annotations or with my video editing software. What I applied to the leather was plain water - the idea is to dampen the leather prior to hammering, which helps the thread to squish down into the surface a bit, it helps close up the stitch holes, and it helps to remove track marks from sewing, particularly on the back side where the lower feed dog's large hole allows the leather to pucker outward with each stitch.
Eric Adams thank you. that would help me because I use a Tippman boss
Sir, I love your work. I'm trying to make a pancake holster and I am looking for the 2 in Belt hole punch. Where did you get yours from?
Thank you! I purchased my belt slot punches from Texas Custom Dies. www.usacuttingdie.com/
At 19:05 there is a wonderful list on the wall. By any chance might that list be available? I am literally starting my first holster while watching the video (and a few others). Thank you, Stephen
Hi Stephen - that was a step-by-step list of all the various steps required to build a holster. I made that when I first started making holsters. It's kinda funny to look back at that list all these years later, but sadly I no longer have the list. I threw it away when I moved last year because it wasn't really accurate to my current process.
What color did you use for the stiffener? Another excellent job! And how do you determine where to put the belt slots?
Thanks! The reinforcement piece is dyed with Fiebing's Pro Dye "Red". With small guns like this, I just try to get the belt slots as high as possible. But I try to allow for at least 3/4" to 1" of clearance between the grip and the holster. Then I need 3/16" for my stitch inset around the perimeter of the holster. Then at least 1/4" of clearance between the belt slot and the stitch line. On larger guns, I usually position the belt somewhere around the ejection port, or whatever works to balance the gun above/below the belt line. Don't want it to be too top heavy so it flops out away from the body. And regarding positioning the belt slots forward/backward away from the gun - that depends a bit on the gun thickness. But I usually shoot for around 3/4" clearance between the belt slot and the stitch line around the pistol. If you get the slots too close to the gun, it puts too much pressure on the back side of the holster which puts too much tension inside the holster. Too far away, and you can't pull the holster in tight enough to the body. I don't really have a formula, but I do try to pre-form my slots so the wings are curved towards the body, and the slot is already shaped to receive the belt at roughly the correct angle.
Eric. Nice work! Could you tell us what liquid have you used in the leather at the end of the process. Thanks
Thank you! The first oily liquid was neetsfoot oil. The milky looking liquid is Fiebings Resolene acrylic sealer, diluted 50/50 with distilled water.
I’m curious as to why you start your stitch there at 11:32. Is It for reinforcement once It goes thru there again?
I lock my stitches by stitching over the first few stitches instead of going back and forth over the same stitch. Starting there allows me to over stitch once I make the first loop around the holster.
What size belt hole punch do you use? Where did you buy it? Where do you buy your logo stamp?
I have a punch I bought from Texas Custom Dies. It is 1 9/16” x 5/16” for my 1.5” slots. I bought my delrin stamp from Grey Ghost Graphics about 10 years ago. I need to have another one made with my new logo, but for now I’m just applying it with my laser.
It appears you've made a few holsters before!
Parabéns 👏👏👏👏
Adam, a question about the sewing machine used in this video; it appears to be Leather Machine Co Cobra Class (4)? Was wondering why the blue tape on the machine? Does it help the leather slide better or provide other benefit while sewing? Thanks.
It’s to cover up the sharp edges on the screws holding that tuning fork looking thing on (for the roller edge guide mount). The screws scrape up the leather on the back side of whatever I’m sewing. And yep, Cobra Class 4.
@@AdamsLeatherWorks Ahhh, that tracks... thanks, just thought it might be some trick of the trade. hahahaha
Eric, where did you pick up your belt loop template? I’ve been trying to find them for a while and can’t seem to find them.
I made it from an old flexible cutting board. I punched a hole in it with my belt slot punch, then offset a line roughly 3/8 around the slot, then cut it out with scissors. If I make another one, I'll probably offset a little further to give a little more leather between the slot and the edge of the holster.
Eric Adams that’s genius! I didn’t even think about using a cutting board
Ola amigo td bem ? espero que sim,andei olhando seus vds e fiquei impressionado com a perfeição do seu trabalho. Amigo quanto tempo levou para vc chegar a esse nível ? não tenho a menor ideia de quanto custa uma obra de arte dessas,mais tenho certeza que vale cada dólar. Parabéns pelo seu trabalho,simplesmente perfeito.
Obrigado! Eu tenho trabalhado com couro por cerca de 10 anos. Eu aprendi no UA-cam e em fóruns de mensagens na internet. Eu pratiquei em coldres por vários meses antes de me sentir confiante o suficiente para fazer coldres para outras pessoas.
@@AdamsLeatherWorks Ola,obg por responder minhas msn,vc falar portugues ou usa o tradutor ?
Desculpe, estou usando o Google Tradutor. Eu posso ter entendido mal sua pergunta.
@@AdamsLeatherWorks Você entendeu correto,eu não falo inglês,e tb uso o Google Tradutor.
Is there a specific purpose for that extra brown patch of leather on the outside of the holster, like for durability purposes? Or is it purely aesthetic? Great work and very helpful video
For this style holster, it’s mostly decorative. It does add a little extra rigidity to the pocket, but since there’s no notable outside forces trying to compress the holster closed, it’s mostly decorative. I usually draw a large and small version of that reinforcement piece. The large piece is the version I’d use if the customer request tooling. Otherwise I use the small piece. Or leave it off entirely, but I’ve seen some people stack the small piece on top of the large reinforcement piece, which was never the intention.
@@AdamsLeatherWorks ok that's very helpful information, and I'm assuming that you started with veg. Tanned tooling leather for the project, the leather looks like it will hold its shape for a long time to come
Nice job. We're did you buy your leather punch?
Thanks! I bought my punches from Texas Custom Dies. They will custom size them for you. Mine are 5/16" x 1/16" wider than the required width. So, my 1.5" wide punch is 1 9/16". My 1.75" punch is 1 13/16". www.usacuttingdie.com/
At the end. Was that neatsfoot oil and what else?
Hi Flint - yes, a light coat of neatsfoot, then a liberal coat of Fiebing's Resolene (diluted 50/50 with water) 24 hours later.
اخي ااسم هذه الآلة التي وضعت فيها الجراب ليأخذ مقاسه هل يوجد منها
اين اجدها
والمادة التي وضعت فيها الجراب كانها صابون ما اسمها
شكرا لك
Does this fit a Springfield 911 9mm? I heard they are similar in size
I've never handled the Springfield 911, but at first glance, I'd say a good starting point is a Sig P938 pattern, though it looks like the trigger guard stitch line would need to be tweaked to fit the squared off Springer triggerguard.
Love your work, whats the leather thickness?
Thank you! I typically use 7-8 ounce leather on my holsters.
How on earth do you use a foam brush and not get bubbles? Excellent videos!
Thanks! The trick is to gradually use less pressure towards the end of that step.
I"m guessing you keep the brush well loaded as well? Thanks for the tip!
At first, yes. But you have to be careful towards the end. Once I coat the entire front, then the back, I don't usually dip the brush again. My goal is to keep spreading the sealer around to avoid puddles and to make sure the entire item is uniformly wet so it dries evenly. Having a brush that's no longer saturated helps to pull puddles away from the piece.
Muhteşem.,Hangi deri ve kalınlığı kaç mm?
Thank you! The leather is Herman Oak vegetable tanned leather, and it was 7-8 ounces thick, or 3mm.
Very nice. What size thread did you use?
Chris Kelly thanks! I use 277 on my holsters, top and bottom.
Sorry to bug you with all the questions. I tried to make one like yours but mine is a little on the flimsy side. I used a 7/8 oz leather. What oz did you use on this one?
I typically use Herman Oak 7-8oz shoulders. This particular holster was built with 7-8oz steer hide. It's a little more dense and considerably harder to mold & tool. If you oil it (I always do), be sure not to apply too much. When you seal it, be sure to apply it liberally to the interior so it soaks in really well.
Great holster but I personally would have stayed away from boneing the ejection port it looks a bit funny with the red and black transition.
What are the dimensions for the belt hole template?
Are you asking about the slot itself? My slots are 5/16” x 1 9/16” for 1.5” belts.
How far is slot from your stitch line
It really depends on the gun thickness, but generally speaking, i aim for around 3/4” to 1” away from the stitch line. The thicker the gun, the more clearance you need to keep from collapsing the back of the holster.
Not being a smart ass here. Just wanted to start out by saying that. I love the way your holsters are put together. The only thing that concerns me is the lack of steel reinforcements in the mouth of the holsters. Does the leather thickness you use not require the steel is there another design reason?
This is just my opinion (but I know others agree with me), steel reinforced openings are overkill on an outside-the-waistband holster since there's not any external pressure being put on the holster (like there is with inside-the-waistband holsters). For an IWB holster, additional reinforcements can help, but I still don't find them necessary.
@@AdamsLeatherWorks That's Interesting. What is your current lead time for your iwb basic?
I'm roughly 14 weeks out for new orders. I move a little slower in the summer - shop's not air conditioned.
All your holsters are for semi auto's, i went to your sight and the company you have listed for molds and it requires you to buy the mold, which they dont have but 4 or 5 revolvers.
You can definitely shop without buying the mold. The idea is for a potential customer to look at the gun molds that are available and compare the offerings to their own gun - that helps minimize the chance of me ordering the incorrect mold since I'm not even close to being an expert on all the gun models out there. And yes - most of what I make is for semi-autos, for the very reason you mentioned. There just isn't a ton of revolver molds available, and if there's no suitable mold available, I can't really build a holster for it.
@@AdamsLeatherWorks for your company maybe not alot of molds available but I found other leather places that have all the revolver molds to make one for each of my revolvers. So thanks anyway
4:22 where’d that piece go?
I’m a bit confused. You cut 4 pieces but only used 3? What i miss?
I probably should mention that in future videos. When customers order a holster from me, they can choose to add tooling to their holster. I generally only tool the reinforcement piece. So, I make two different reinforcement pieces - the larger one if I tool the holster, and the smaller one for all the non-tooled holsters. The reinforcement panel is optional on Pancake style holsters since they are worn OWB and there's no external forces trying to close the holster. It's basically decorative and entirely optional. Most of my customers like the look of the reinforcement so I include it by default. If someone builds a holster from one of my patterns, that person should select either the large or small reinforcement, or leave it off entirely - but it was never my intention to use both sizes on the same holster.
@@AdamsLeatherWorks thank you! Great work!
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