👌👍I come from Switzerland and have more than 40 years expirience about watchmacker tools and Schäublin lathes. Your method is perfect! All those who criticize didn't understand anything.
Being crazy meticulous can be a blessing or a curse. In today's world most people wouldn't bother. Still ,in your case I would consider focus as a blessing. Of course having the right tools is as important as the focus. Brilliant by the way.
Thanks for that lesson, enjoyed the process very much. Hope one day you could go through the equipment you have in your shop explaining why you chose it verses other options? Thanks again
interesting setup video, at 11:07 the whole thing is already setup, what we were nievely hoping this video would be is exactly THIS, getting the standard toolpost OFF the compound rest and showing us what the milling stuff is all about, then INSTALLING it on the comound rest (showing the allen keys bolting it on!); as any beginner, not familliar with this, we find it intimidating, one that you expect us to know this already, and two, that you "abreviate" the process, who cares how long the video is, it is it's QUALITY that matters!!! such a pity all these videos are done for experts, and not beginners level of understanding; cutting gears on these model makers lathes is not just for watchmakers, us modelmakers want to learn how to make our own gears too 🙂
Hi Tommy, at 6:40 is that loctite 638 you'd added in the mix that I could see on your block, I heard you mention soft solder? Also do you allow much in the way of extra thickness to the add in piece for riveting, in comparison to the wheel thickness? I'm guessing it was next to nothing and sanded. Cheers
Good spot Neil as always! The intention was to 'dry' fit the repair section, which I always help along with some 638, however as this repair needed a little more security I had to clean that out and run in some solder instead. Yes, the material was left oversize to be reduced to thickness after peaning.
Hi ,You can make a video how to solder this piece so thin and small, I can’t weld it like you do, because the brass has very high temperatures (about 900G) to weld, and as they are very thin pieces, the material is very damaged where solder! Good video continues I like it
Thanks Tommy! Love this content. I'm new to Schaublin having just purchased a 102 TO so it's great to see some clock making content using these lathes. I noticed you are using the Tripan tool holder. I'm trying to decide between this and the multifix. Any experience with those for the 102? Or recommendations?
I’m sure it would, but the tolerances we are talking about with clockmaking would mean you wouldn’t notice the difference. Digital verniers are already far more accurate than the kit used to make the clock originally.
good video, but a piece of feedback, you are NOT supposed to be wearing jewelry or a watch in the shop!- esp. while operating a lathe, as it can catch in rotating machinery and suck your hand, etc into it, causing injury.
In his defence, this is not high power machinery and I think he knows what he is doing. Also the use of collets rather than engineering style chucks makes life safer from the risks you mention. Not looking to argue, just saying.
Almost half an hour of making tools and holders with the lathe, and when the real repairing part of cutting and fitting the teeth should star: "...I did it off camera" ???? come on man...👎👎👎👎👎
👌👍I come from Switzerland and have more than 40 years expirience about watchmacker tools and Schäublin lathes. Your method is perfect! All those who criticize didn't understand anything.
Great content, what a treasure those schaublins
Excellent video i love to see the original parts used and repaired by a truly professional operator.
Stay safe
John
Glad you enjoyed it
Being crazy meticulous can be a blessing or a curse. In today's world most people wouldn't bother. Still ,in your case I would consider focus as a blessing. Of course having the right tools is as important as the focus. Brilliant by the way.
Thanks!
@@TommyJobson 👍🕰👍
Thanks for that lesson, enjoyed the process very much. Hope one day you could go through the equipment you have in your shop explaining why you chose it verses other options? Thanks again
I will do an in depth workshop tour one day, but for now there is a very rough and ready workshop walk through on my Patreon.
Nice job, well shared and to us your efforts are well received here, thank you. Lance & Patrick. We really like the Schaublin lathe as well.
Thanks very much. Hope you guys are well.
interesting setup video, at 11:07 the whole thing is already setup, what we were nievely hoping this video would be is exactly THIS, getting the standard toolpost OFF the compound rest and showing us what the milling stuff is all about, then INSTALLING it on the comound rest (showing the allen keys bolting it on!); as any beginner, not familliar with this, we find it intimidating, one that you expect us to know this already, and two, that you "abreviate" the process, who cares how long the video is, it is it's QUALITY that matters!!! such a pity all these videos are done for experts, and not beginners level of understanding; cutting gears on these model makers lathes is not just for watchmakers, us modelmakers want to learn how to make our own gears too 🙂
Dear Sir, thanks for your videos! Where could i find the documents for the divider at 13:32? Thanks for your help!
Hi Tommy, at 6:40 is that loctite 638 you'd added in the mix that I could see on your block, I heard you mention soft solder? Also do you allow much in the way of extra thickness to the add in piece for riveting, in comparison to the wheel thickness? I'm guessing it was next to nothing and sanded. Cheers
Good spot Neil as always! The intention was to 'dry' fit the repair section, which I always help along with some 638, however as this repair needed a little more security I had to clean that out and run in some solder instead. Yes, the material was left oversize to be reduced to thickness after peaning.
Hi ,You can make a video how to solder this piece so thin and small, I can’t weld it like you do, because the brass has very high temperatures (about 900G) to weld, and as they are very thin pieces, the material is very damaged where solder!
Good video continues I like it
Use low temp solder and it should be fine.
one other thing, how do you mount the indexing device on the headstock, you cheat us out of that too.
I was wondering how you were going to align the repair with the other teeth. Great solution.
Thanks Tommy! Love this content. I'm new to Schaublin having just purchased a 102 TO so it's great to see some clock making content using these lathes. I noticed you are using the Tripan tool holder. I'm trying to decide between this and the multifix. Any experience with those for the 102? Or recommendations?
I’m not much help to you as I’ve only ever used the Tripan or Dickenson tool holders. I rate the Tripan extremely highly though.
I am not a clock maker but I just wonder if it wouldn’t be more accurate to use micrometers for your OD measurements?
I’m sure it would, but the tolerances we are talking about with clockmaking would mean you wouldn’t notice the difference. Digital verniers are already far more accurate than the kit used to make the clock originally.
Wach working im vyrre happe
Thanks
good video, but a piece of feedback, you are NOT supposed to be wearing jewelry or a watch in the shop!- esp. while operating a lathe, as it can catch in rotating machinery and suck your hand, etc into it, causing injury.
In his defence, this is not high power machinery and I think he knows what he is doing. Also the use of collets rather than engineering style chucks makes life safer from the risks you mention. Not looking to argue, just saying.
Almost half an hour of making tools and holders with the lathe, and when the real repairing part of cutting and fitting the teeth should star: "...I did it off camera" ???? come on man...👎👎👎👎👎