I've painted for 22 years and made me smile when you mentioned not to use a sharpe because it bleeds through paint. Wish all the trade understand that.
Thanks for the informative video. After seeing your break tests, I installed 3/8 lag bolts with climbing hangers into the studs in my garage. I've been using these mounts for a hammock and a rodeo line and it seems very stable so far.
Putting serious loads on individual studs means (assuming stuff doesn't rip out or you don't discover that the framers didn't do a great job nailing that stud in place) you're likely going to get good at patching cracked drywall. When we design things like a beam supporting floor joists, the limiting factor isn't ultimate strength, but deflection - how much the structural member bends under load. Generally, the drywall is put on, taped/mudded and then painted before there's a lot of stuff or people in the building, so if those added live loads are going to cause the member to "bend" (deflect) more than a tiny bit (such as more than the length of the beam divided by 360) then we'd expect the drywall to crack. That said, it's great to see anchors ripped out of studs - your test numbers are much higher than the "book numbers" we actually design with - lots of safety factor!
One of the best videos so far (they are all excellent...)... actually helps my gear fear of installing kitchen cabinets! Maybe test plastic insert plugs for brick and hollow block walls!
"wasn't expecting this channel to turn into a home improvement show"😂 Well i guess all of us got thrown kind of a curveball lately 😅😊 Thanks for the entertaining work while we dodge that curveball 👍👍🙌
Great episode guys. One concern - Studs are attached to the top and bottom plate with 2 nails on each end. Given enough load, you could pull the stud out! I'd be interested in knowing how much load that would take, and if I'd ever get near that with a tensioned slackline.
t1-11 siding and sheetrock holding all of it together does a lot for the stud. It would be interesting to pull in the middle of a fake wall but that seems like a lot of work for an unlikely scenario
11:50 Yea, from watching a lot of contracting youtube, stud finders find more than just studs, so you do kinda have to be careful about fully trusting them.
Use any magnet to find the stud! Look for the screws (or nails) thats keeping the drywall, they are center stud or in couples where the drywall is joined.
I'm bouncing back and forth between this video and the Mammut 8.0 Contact Sling tests. Would placing 2 hangers on studs next to each other, and connecting them with a sliding X, be beneficial for load distribution, or would the 16"-24" distance between hangers be too sharp an angle?
What about setting up a slackline between a deck post and tree? Would that be super good enough? Also probably a dumb question but is there a difference in force at the anchor between a slackline and hammock? I've setup a hammock inside my house before without issue.
I'm watching this with some similar questions in mind. I'm a novice, but I would say it depends primarily on the strength and stability (size, root depth, etc,) of the tree; the strength and stability of the deck post; the form of the anchor (bolts? slings? rope? dynamic vs. static? angle of pull? redundancy and distribution of force?); the length of the slack line and amount of slack/sag; and the weight of whoever is on it (particularly if they are doing bouncing and jumping tricks that will multiply that force throughout the system). Finally, when it comes to the difference in force at the anchor between a slackline and hammock, I suppose it depends on how you use the two, but in general hammocks involve slow tensioning and un-tensioning of the system, low passive force/tension/weight when not in use, and much less "cyclical loading." In other words, unless you're constantly jumping up and down on it with a bunch of bears , a hammock will generate far less force and cumulative strain on its anchor points (as well as typically being composed of cheaper and weaker rope, which is liable to fail gradually and unevenly, before the anchors do). I'm happy to be corrected, but that's my quick take.
Awesome and informative video but what about the rest of us living anywhere but the US or Canada where our walls/houses aren't made of thin wood and frikin drywall... :D Maybe a similar video but explaining how to drill brick and concrete walls for anchors would be nice too.
I explained the hardest situation where you can only get it right 1 out of 16 tries (16 inches apart haha). If you have a concrete wall, drill anywhere you want, install a molly and put in your screw haha
@@HowNOT2 True but most of the walls here are hollow bricks, the position of the hole is not a problem, I was just worried that if the force isn't 90 degrees to the bolt (Straight down) it could pull the bolt out due to the space in the brick. Since the whole molly would not be in contact with the wall 100%, I was worried it would create some "Wiggle" room and pull out.
@@susedianinso Indeed, the issue of the angle of pull is an important one, and Petzl for instance has a long warning about axial loading and anchor fatigue due to slack-lining on their bolts: . Nevertheless, I find it super helpful to see what kind of forces they can withstand under common, albeit sub-optimal, conditions. It sounds like you might have to do some testing under your own local conditions?!
when a failure means your life is potentially on the line: 2 is one, one is none. PS, I believe in homes, those "support" beams are referred to as "load bearing"
Rule of thumb, if you know where one stud is already. The other studs are going to be 16" away from there on center. Possibly 24" also but most of the it is 16". Thats how most houses are built.
hello, very important and useful information, well done. I wonder how to apply the trunk of a beech tree freshly cut, not dried up, such information would be useful to me. Greetings from Poland
I’m not a high liner , but I really love your channel (I’m a climber). However , I don’t understand the difference between slacklining and highlining; can anybody help me ?
30 feet or higher we wear a leash and that catches us when we fall. Mid lining is 30 feet to 100 feet. Highlining is anything above 100 feet but that is a rubber ruler. It is just slacklining up high
Wow when the bolt pulled lucky you dident get killed haha im a tree climber and use some same stuff as rock climbers and ive never even thought of rock climbing tell 2 weeks ago now 2 how not toos latter and i know alot of slack lining and big wall climbing now i need to get on a wall
So I'd be really interested in your advice on a project. Basically I'm looking to hang a ratcheting tension line indoors. I have an idea for how to integrate a pulley to reduce the tension by 33% and I would put a sizable mounting device on each wall. But I'd like to bounce the design off of you and also learn a rough estimate for how many kill-Newtons each side would experience given my body weight. I'd be interested in paying for this advice from you. Do you have anything set up where I could send you an email with my question and pictures / diagrams and you could receive payment via PayPal or Venmo? Let me know your thoughts
Basically I'm looking at a 12-ft line and I weigh 235lbs. I'd like to know how much force will be pulling on each wall. Even if it's just an approximation
@@susedianinso intresting argument, but it seems homeownership percentages between Europe and the US are about the same. I guess it's mainly a historic difference but I'm not sure
@@HowNOT2 Also interested in removable bolting options for indoor use in brick and concrete. Wedge-bolting a rented apartment might not be the best idea :P
Wood houses are great if you don’t want to die in an earthquake, but otherwise you are 100% correct, Timo and I am jealous of houses that are hundreds of years old and well built! Houses that are built of poorly reinforced concrete are very dangerous, whether they are in Haiti or in Florida, USA.
Check out our new store! hownot2.store/
I've painted for 22 years and made me smile when you mentioned not to use a sharpe because it bleeds through paint. Wish all the trade understand that.
Thanks for the informative video. After seeing your break tests, I installed 3/8 lag bolts with climbing hangers into the studs in my garage. I've been using these mounts for a hammock and a rodeo line and it seems very stable so far.
Putting serious loads on individual studs means (assuming stuff doesn't rip out or you don't discover that the framers didn't do a great job nailing that stud in place) you're likely going to get good at patching cracked drywall. When we design things like a beam supporting floor joists, the limiting factor isn't ultimate strength, but deflection - how much the structural member bends under load. Generally, the drywall is put on, taped/mudded and then painted before there's a lot of stuff or people in the building, so if those added live loads are going to cause the member to "bend" (deflect) more than a tiny bit (such as more than the length of the beam divided by 360) then we'd expect the drywall to crack. That said, it's great to see anchors ripped out of studs - your test numbers are much higher than the "book numbers" we actually design with - lots of safety factor!
Thanks for the hold patching info! It helped me fill in a couple today
Really liked the testing of the different types of fasteners. Very Project Farm. Lots of food for thought when mounting things to my ceiling/walls.
man, I have a bunch o holes on my rent apartment from hangboard and whatnot haha
this video was so random but so useful, thanks for it!
One of the best videos so far (they are all excellent...)... actually helps my gear fear of installing kitchen cabinets! Maybe test plastic insert plugs for brick and hollow block walls!
You have awesome videos! I wish I saw them when I used to climb like 6 years ago. Seriously thinking about coming back, thank you!
I think if you made a home improvement / painting channel you'd kill it.
Great break tests! I just set up some practice anchors on my patio ceiling and they are much more robust than any of the tests.
Maybe try to build a mini wall outside with sheet rock and all, and try to pull it down will pulley system? Haha I guess since your bored at home.
man you can tell this guy painting is his profession and hes good at it from the way he talks about it
I used a percussion drill to make holes into my wall - usually a hassle, for this it gave me peace of mind ^^
"wasn't expecting this channel to turn into a home improvement show"😂
Well i guess all of us got thrown kind of a curveball lately 😅😊
Thanks for the entertaining work while we dodge that curveball 👍👍🙌
"Improvement" is a generous term... particularly when I'm trying to convince my landlady : P
LAB! I learned a new acronym today!
Great episode guys. One concern - Studs are attached to the top and bottom plate with 2 nails on each end. Given enough load, you could pull the stud out! I'd be interested in knowing how much load that would take, and if I'd ever get near that with a tensioned slackline.
t1-11 siding and sheetrock holding all of it together does a lot for the stud. It would be interesting to pull in the middle of a fake wall but that seems like a lot of work for an unlikely scenario
11:50 Yea, from watching a lot of contracting youtube, stud finders find more than just studs, so you do kinda have to be careful about fully trusting them.
I like this mans place deff a young climbers dream
this gave some peace of mind to my bomber anchors at home
Use any magnet to find the stud!
Look for the screws (or nails) thats keeping the drywall, they are center stud or in couples where the drywall is joined.
This was great! Thanks for this!
Super rad to see your having good fun with slacking your home!!! Cheers :)
31:15 in the table kg and lbf columns should be flipped and the values of lbf column should be divided by 1000
I'm bouncing back and forth between this video and the Mammut 8.0 Contact Sling tests. Would placing 2 hangers on studs next to each other, and connecting them with a sliding X, be beneficial for load distribution, or would the 16"-24" distance between hangers be too sharp an angle?
Sick! Looks like a blast!
Thumbs up for the cat slacklining by proxy Ryan 😀
As a builder I can tell you without a doubt your walls are not meant for those types of stresses he shouldn’t do that
What about setting up a slackline between a deck post and tree? Would that be super good enough? Also probably a dumb question but is there a difference in force at the anchor between a slackline and hammock? I've setup a hammock inside my house before without issue.
I'm watching this with some similar questions in mind.
I'm a novice, but I would say it depends primarily on the strength and stability (size, root depth, etc,) of the tree; the strength and stability of the deck post; the form of the anchor (bolts? slings? rope? dynamic vs. static? angle of pull? redundancy and distribution of force?); the length of the slack line and amount of slack/sag; and the weight of whoever is on it (particularly if they are doing bouncing and jumping tricks that will multiply that force throughout the system).
Finally, when it comes to the difference in force at the anchor between a slackline and hammock, I suppose it depends on how you use the two, but in general hammocks involve slow tensioning and un-tensioning of the system, low passive force/tension/weight when not in use, and much less "cyclical loading." In other words, unless you're constantly jumping up and down on it with a bunch of bears , a hammock will generate far less force and cumulative strain on its anchor points (as well as typically being composed of cheaper and weaker rope, which is liable to fail gradually and unevenly, before the anchors do).
I'm happy to be corrected, but that's my quick take.
well there goes my deposit
16:22 how not to keep your security deposit.
Can you explain the beginning of everything breaking and the guy falling please
18:24....HighLine home improvement meets Bob Ross
Awesome and informative video but what about the rest of us living anywhere but the US or Canada where our walls/houses aren't made of thin wood and frikin drywall... :D
Maybe a similar video but explaining how to drill brick and concrete walls for anchors would be nice too.
I explained the hardest situation where you can only get it right 1 out of 16 tries (16 inches apart haha). If you have a concrete wall, drill anywhere you want, install a molly and put in your screw haha
@@HowNOT2 True but most of the walls here are hollow bricks, the position of the hole is not a problem, I was just worried that if the force isn't 90 degrees to the bolt (Straight down) it could pull the bolt out due to the space in the brick. Since the whole molly would not be in contact with the wall 100%, I was worried it would create some "Wiggle" room and pull out.
@@susedianinso Indeed, the issue of the angle of pull is an important one, and Petzl for instance has a long warning about axial loading and anchor fatigue due to slack-lining on their bolts: .
Nevertheless, I find it super helpful to see what kind of forces they can withstand under common, albeit sub-optimal, conditions.
It sounds like you might have to do some testing under your own local conditions?!
The answer is core fill some bricks with concrete, and install a Simpson structural concrete screw
This is Awesome.
when a failure means your life is potentially on the line: 2 is one, one is none.
PS, I believe in homes, those "support" beams are referred to as "load bearing"
Rule of thumb, if you know where one stud is already. The other studs are going to be 16" away from there on center. Possibly 24" also but most of the it is 16". Thats how most houses are built.
hello, very important and useful information, well done. I wonder how to apply the trunk of a beech tree freshly cut, not dried up, such information would be useful to me. Greetings from Poland
What is the name of the rack up against your wall? I think I've seen those in gymnastic gyms....
I see you live in lodi. That's up. I'm from manteca
Adding a metal plate behind the hanger might stop it from digging into the sheet rock.
true
Whoa whoa wait a gd minute. Did anyone notice that junction box at 5:40?! So many things wrong with it.
"for redundancy" in case you fall into your couch and take a hard chill??
Thanks! the titles of the lbs/kg are the other way round
damn it. good eye. Can't edit a published video. It is right on the slack snap chart on the website
Like we say in the trades " Little puddy , a little paint, makes a carpenter what he aint."
Slacksnap test your walls next???
I’m not a high liner , but I really love your channel (I’m a climber). However , I don’t understand the difference between slacklining and highlining; can anybody help me ?
30 feet or higher we wear a leash and that catches us when we fall. Mid lining is 30 feet to 100 feet. Highlining is anything above 100 feet but that is a rubber ruler. It is just slacklining up high
HowNOTtoHIGHLINE thanks Ryan!
Wow when the bolt pulled lucky you dident get killed haha im a tree climber and use some same stuff as rock climbers and ive never even thought of rock climbing tell 2 weeks ago now 2 how not toos latter and i know alot of slack lining and big wall climbing now i need to get on a wall
could we get some more yosemite highline vids?
coming soon. and also when they let me back in the park! haha I'm developing a whole new area that people will get stoked to try out
So I'd be really interested in your advice on a project. Basically I'm looking to hang a ratcheting tension line indoors. I have an idea for how to integrate a pulley to reduce the tension by 33% and I would put a sizable mounting device on each wall. But I'd like to bounce the design off of you and also learn a rough estimate for how many kill-Newtons each side would experience given my body weight. I'd be interested in paying for this advice from you. Do you have anything set up where I could send you an email with my question and pictures / diagrams and you could receive payment via PayPal or Venmo? Let me know your thoughts
Basically I'm looking at a 12-ft line and I weigh 235lbs. I'd like to know how much force will be pulling on each wall. Even if it's just an approximation
@@NickHarrisonPAWS This might help: .
When bolt threw a wall put a colum from ground to celling on back side of wall and it will pull on colum not wall
It’s ridiculous how flimsy Americatn houses are. We build sheds with beams at least twice the width and height here.
Shit has to be cheap if you want everyone to be able to own a house
@@susedianinso intresting argument, but it seems homeownership percentages between Europe and the US are about the same. I guess it's mainly a historic difference but I'm not sure
What if the wall is of brick?
We can do masonry anchor break tests soon! Just predrill a hole then use a molly then the screw. There are tons of options are hardware store
@@HowNOT2 Also interested in removable bolting options for indoor use in brick and concrete. Wedge-bolting a rented apartment might not be the best idea :P
Alright now that you covered cardboard houses, what about european houses? haha ;). Jokes - great video!
Exactly what I was thinking, too :-)
fucking great episode.
so basically if it fails it pulls the house down ;)
and if you do cool stuff on it the "house comes down" :)
HowNOTtoHIGHLINE at least you know it’s well secured, might want to add some redundancy to mine after watching this!!!
HowNOT2 drywall lmao
wood house people problems..:)
Wood houses are great if you don’t want to die in an earthquake, but otherwise you are 100% correct, Timo and I am jealous of houses that are hundreds of years old and well built! Houses that are built of poorly reinforced concrete are very dangerous, whether they are in Haiti or in Florida, USA.
I did it myself with the Woodglut plans. I think this is the best way to find out how to build it.
I tried this and now my landlord won't give me back my deposit