I manage a small Facebook group entitled “Solar kilns for lumber” which I have linked your videos in. I appreciate you sharing the process by which you have permanent-ized your baffle. I will def be using this method. Any other wisdom you have to impart would be greatly appreciated kind sir.
I will be joining your group to try and accumulate some wisdom myself or at least get some suggestions for getting rid of my hot spot. Thanks for watching.
Thank you for making this video. I am going to build a solar kiln to use this spring and summer, and your comments were quite helpful. (I also loved your conversation with the goats- "Have you never seen turkeys before?") Subscribed.
Hello from across the "pond." Experience talks and it was a pleasure listening to you. Fortunately, wood bugs aren't such an issue here in the UK, but moisture content is and the reason for taking in your advice. Loving the goats.
Well hello, I think this would work well over there as well.. You may find it hard to believe but we probably get more rain here (Soddy Daisy) than you do with our yearly average about 57" or around 1450mm and it still works pretty well.
@@hillbillychic3933 Definitely got us beat with that figure, by 4" approx. And wood stock. We're ok if we were to make oak bow and arrows, but walnut and other decent types that are available to you is scarce and expensive here. Probably more Tree Preservation Orders here than actual felled hardwood. 😁
Very interesting ...seems like just a few months back you were building the kiln. I'm playing D'Artagnan and putting more fencing boards up. I was trying to think of a way where I could build a wet fence. Maybe put in every other board then return after a season. Yesterday's idea was a horizontal pattern, where the fence boards stack and are held by two channels.....so as they dry, gravity would keep the gaps tight. Another idea that is bound to fail. For years I've thought to just nail the boards up...side by side...let them dry out and then return with a gig that will cut a nice 3/4" joint between them where I can lay in a decorative piece. (This is one of the many times I'm grateful I don't own a ranch that needs fencing around the perimeter)
For something like a fence how dry do the boards have to be? Keeping in mind they will shrink a bit and if they are held pretty captive there shouldn't be too much warping.. Famous last words right there..
Hello @@hillbillychic3933 I wanted to work with wet wood. I have framed with wood right off the mill. My thinking was you could wait and let the word dry some before continuing the building. But...for the fence...I'm not sure how well that will work because the ends of the boards are floating a bit.
Just a guess, but I bet that faulty fan is the reason you have a hot spot on that side. You can see in the video that it is not turning at the same rate as the other two.
Thanks for great experience! Could you share your experience about drying to extreme low humidity? I mean 6-8% final humidity. For example: the load of kiln is twice more than in your video with 2" oak lumber with start humidity 26%. How much time will it take to dry to 6-8% during summer period?
The short answer is about a month but... If it's white oak I would let the moisture drop down further in my barn before putting it in the kiln. White Oak really likes to hold onto its moisture and I wouldn't want to case harden the wood so I would wait until the White Oak drops down to the equilibrium moisture content for my area which is 13% before finishing it off in the kiln and would still dry it quite slowly with the vents open and just shut the vents to get the temperature as high as possible at the end of the process. In that scenario it would only take a couple of weeks. Hope that helps..
@@hillbillychic3933 Thank! That really helps! I know the rule for white oak to lose less 1% of moisture per day to avoid cracks and internal tension. If you have a little of time please answer: what was the highest temperature in your kiln? I have doubt that policarbonate will survive in sunny summer day with shut vents.
@@ДмитрийСимакович-ы8л The highest temperature I have seen in my kiln is about 60C (140F) but I think that could be improved by taking care of some gaps in the doors. You are correct, the polycarbonate does not like the heat that much and tends to expand and warp a bit which would be another loss of heat. Glass would be better but much more expensive but there also may be another alternative out there.
I haven't really considered since I have not had an issue with bugs. It would also be a bit more difficult because the panels would be a great source of heat loss.
If you has made it smaller, wouldn’t it also capture less solar radiation? It seem like, given how you mentioned that the thermal mass of the boards is a limiting factor, that it would be better to keep the kiln bigger. Unless you’re just saying that you’re only ever interested in small batches. In regards to the sugar in the wood, I thought I watched a video that said it peaks in late fall, and gets depleted til the spring arrives, which would indicate to cut it in late winter, but I really don’t know
You are correct! But, less solar radiation and less space to heat up. If I kept the loads smaller I think I would see the same results. The loads would also just have to be smaller still. To your point, I don't think I could put the same loads in a smaller kiln that I currently put in my existing kiln but I do think even a smaller kiln could keep up with the amount of space I have dedicated to air drying. Trees have the most sugars in them in Spring when they are getting ready for growth and not getting ready to go dormant in fall and winter. There are podcasts out there where smarter people than me discuss these things. If I could recommend one it would be Shannon's Lumber Industry Update. It's a lot better than the name implies and if you are interested in where would comes from you should give it a listen. Very informative!!
Because I mostly air dry below 20% and keep the loads fairly small it takes a couple of weeks in the summer and up to a month in the winter. There are many factors to it as well. Species of wood, walnut dries a lot faster than White Oak, sunny days versus cloudy days but 1 to 2 weeks is a ballpark answer.
@@hillbillychic3933 WOW!! That's valuable info though. Even a month to dry out a stack is amazing compared to just putting stickers and leaving under something to air dry. I think with all I have learned that I will take the time to build kiln. Looking forward to milling some white oak and making flooring for my cabin in VA! Happy Drying to you!
Thank you for sharing what you have learned. I am getting ready to build a kiln and appreciate the feedback.
Glad it was helpful! Please let me know if you have any questions.
I manage a small Facebook group entitled “Solar kilns for lumber” which I have linked your videos in. I appreciate you sharing the process by which you have permanent-ized your baffle. I will def be using this method. Any other wisdom you have to impart would be greatly appreciated kind sir.
I will be joining your group to try and accumulate some wisdom myself or at least get some suggestions for getting rid of my hot spot. Thanks for watching.
Lots of good information, thanks Paul.
Glad you enjoyed it
Great video Paul. For some reason I'm in the mood for Thanksgiving leftovers 😁
You and me both!
Thank you for making this video. I am going to build a solar kiln to use this spring and summer, and your comments were quite helpful. (I also loved your conversation with the goats- "Have you never seen turkeys before?")
Subscribed.
Glad it was helpful! Always happy to answer any questions you might have during the build. Good Luck!
Hello from across the "pond." Experience talks and it was a pleasure listening to you. Fortunately, wood bugs aren't such an issue here in the UK, but moisture content is and the reason for taking in your advice. Loving the goats.
Well hello, I think this would work well over there as well.. You may find it hard to believe but we probably get more rain here (Soddy Daisy) than you do with our yearly average about 57" or around 1450mm and it still works pretty well.
@@hillbillychic3933 Definitely got us beat with that figure, by 4" approx. And wood stock. We're ok if we were to make oak bow and arrows, but walnut and other decent types that are available to you is scarce and expensive here. Probably more Tree Preservation Orders here than actual felled hardwood. 😁
Very interesting ...seems like just a few months back you were building the kiln.
I'm playing D'Artagnan and putting more fencing boards up. I was trying to think of a way where I could build a wet fence. Maybe put in every other board then return after a season.
Yesterday's idea was a horizontal pattern, where the fence boards stack and are held by two channels.....so as they dry, gravity would keep the gaps tight. Another idea that is bound to fail.
For years I've thought to just nail the boards up...side by side...let them dry out and then return with a gig that will cut a nice 3/4" joint between them where I can lay in a decorative piece.
(This is one of the many times I'm grateful I don't own a ranch that needs fencing around the perimeter)
For something like a fence how dry do the boards have to be? Keeping in mind they will shrink a bit and if they are held pretty captive there shouldn't be too much warping.. Famous last words right there..
Hello @@hillbillychic3933 I wanted to work with wet wood.
I have framed with wood right off the mill. My thinking was you could wait and let the word dry some before continuing the building.
But...for the fence...I'm not sure how well that will work because the ends of the boards are floating a bit.
Just a guess, but I bet that faulty fan is the reason you have a hot spot on that side. You can see in the video that it is not turning at the same rate as the other two.
it would be easy enough to switch fans to see if the hotspot follows the fan. Something to look into for sure. Thanks for watching.
I didn't know that about the cells collapsing. Interesting
Everyday is a school day!
This is very cool!
Thanks!
Thanks for great experience! Could you share your experience about drying to extreme low humidity? I mean 6-8% final humidity. For example: the load of kiln is twice more than in your video with 2" oak lumber with start humidity 26%. How much time will it take to dry to 6-8% during summer period?
The short answer is about a month but... If it's white oak I would let the moisture drop down further in my barn before putting it in the kiln. White Oak really likes to hold onto its moisture and I wouldn't want to case harden the wood so I would wait until the White Oak drops down to the equilibrium moisture content for my area which is 13% before finishing it off in the kiln and would still dry it quite slowly with the vents open and just shut the vents to get the temperature as high as possible at the end of the process. In that scenario it would only take a couple of weeks. Hope that helps..
@@hillbillychic3933 Thank! That really helps! I know the rule for white oak to lose less 1% of moisture per day to avoid cracks and internal tension. If you have a little of time please answer: what was the highest temperature in your kiln? I have doubt that policarbonate will survive in sunny summer day with shut vents.
@@ДмитрийСимакович-ы8л The highest temperature I have seen in my kiln is about 60C (140F) but I think that could be improved by taking care of some gaps in the doors. You are correct, the polycarbonate does not like the heat that much and tends to expand and warp a bit which would be another loss of heat. Glass would be better but much more expensive but there also may be another alternative out there.
Great info, thank you!!
You're welcome, glad you enjoyed it.
Have you ever considered or even tried adding a small electric heater or dehumidifier just at the end of the cycle to get the needed 130 degrees?
I haven't really considered since I have not had an issue with bugs. It would also be a bit more difficult because the panels would be a great source of heat loss.
If you has made it smaller, wouldn’t it also capture less solar radiation? It seem like, given how you mentioned that the thermal mass of the boards is a limiting factor, that it would be better to keep the kiln bigger. Unless you’re just saying that you’re only ever interested in small batches. In regards to the sugar in the wood, I thought I watched a video that said it peaks in late fall, and gets depleted til the spring arrives, which would indicate to cut it in late winter, but I really don’t know
You are correct! But, less solar radiation and less space to heat up. If I kept the loads smaller I think I would see the same results. The loads would also just have to be smaller still. To your point, I don't think I could put the same loads in a smaller kiln that I currently put in my existing kiln but I do think even a smaller kiln could keep up with the amount of space I have dedicated to air drying. Trees have the most sugars in them in Spring when they are getting ready for growth and not getting ready to go dormant in fall and winter. There are podcasts out there where smarter people than me discuss these things. If I could recommend one it would be Shannon's Lumber Industry Update. It's a lot better than the name implies and if you are interested in where would comes from you should give it a listen. Very informative!!
I see you're in the Soddy-Daisy area... you still have any of that Brazilian Cherry?
I do!!
What kind of fans are you using there?
If this link doesn't work there is one in the description of the original video of the build. Amtrak Solar Fans
Can you dry slabs that are 2” to 2 1/2” thick?
yes is the short answer but I would let them air dry for at least a year before putting them into the kiln.
How long does it take to dry each load
Because I mostly air dry below 20% and keep the loads fairly small it takes a couple of weeks in the summer and up to a month in the winter. There are many factors to it as well. Species of wood, walnut dries a lot faster than White Oak, sunny days versus cloudy days but 1 to 2 weeks is a ballpark answer.
@@hillbillychic3933 WOW!! That's valuable info though. Even a month to dry out a stack is amazing compared to just putting stickers and leaving under something to air dry. I think with all I have learned that I will take the time to build kiln. Looking forward to milling some white oak and making flooring for my cabin in VA! Happy Drying to you!
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks!
👎
Bummer..
I mentioned to @Uwannawatch that you had a great saw sharpener. He just added five saws to his collecting!
I'm starting to see them everywhere myself.. The crazy thing is I hardly use them.
This is why a wise gardener , during a drought, will wash the car guaranteeing rain.@@hillbillychic3933