You'll get it just like you learned the tractor and all the other improvements. Keep up the great learning. Awesome work. Just an idea. Two prices for firewood. Dried and green. Some people don't mind the green as it may just be back up wood for them. Just a thought to move both wood types. Hope this helps.
I would control humidity by constantly venting hot humid air thru an air-air heat exchanger thus using recovered heat to pre-heat the makeup air. It would take far fewer watts to use a conventional ceiling fan on its lowest speed to circulate the air. Yes, that would require 120VAC, but it would require a fraction of the wattage and move more air. A very small inverter would take your 12V to 120vac. I just looked; a $100.00 Hampton Bay 42" fan moved 2,552 CFM with 33 watts of power. Also consider investing in a couple of larger .used solar panels
as a wood worker, contracter, farmer, landowner, etc etc.......move the wood stove so it can be loaded from outside the kiln.........doors closed, air intake for stove is outside and the drying flow can be controled as you wish...................just another view and I commend u for doing the deed
How would it work with the splitter to load your next piece against the butt of the previous one? It seems like taking the piece that didn’t split all the way and finishing it by hand each time might be unnecessary.
In this video I was just splitting a couple of pieces to do the moisture test and we wanted to keep track of the different pieces and which side was the fresh split side so we were doing things more slowly. Plenty of other videos on the channel running the splitter with higher production in mind if you want to see what its capable of. Thanks for watching.
You need to scale back the volume of wood to a stable, known challenge. The obvious goal and obvious limitation to the entire system is the water in the wood. Let's say you have 5 gallons of water to remove from a tote - changing and varying that volume of wood the way you are is killing your analysis. I'd scale back to a known volume, of equal moisture content, say 4 totes. That allows consistent maximum airflow as you refine your systems, then as the process stabilizes you can start maximizing your yield and realize the capacity and what direction to head for improvements.
I will test both ways to see if there's any kind of difference in the reading. But seriously my man, you can't assume a manual wasn't read or followed. How about you read it manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/67000-67999/67143.pdf
I'm very interested in this build, I've been kicking around a solar kiln for a while now. Should work great here in Florida.
You'll get it just like you learned the tractor and all the other improvements. Keep up the great learning. Awesome work. Just an idea. Two prices for firewood. Dried and green. Some people don't mind the green as it may just be back up wood for them. Just a thought to move both wood types. Hope this helps.
Can you use the generator to charge the batteries while you are running the fan. Maximize the output of the generator
Yes, just need to add a charger which I don't have right now.
Just noticed woodland mills in backround :)
Yeah I need to use it more.
I would control humidity by constantly venting hot humid air thru an air-air heat exchanger thus using recovered heat to pre-heat the makeup air. It would take far fewer watts to use a conventional ceiling fan on its lowest speed to circulate the air. Yes, that would require 120VAC, but it would require a fraction of the wattage and move more air. A very small inverter would take your 12V to 120vac. I just looked; a $100.00 Hampton Bay 42" fan moved 2,552 CFM with 33 watts of power. Also consider investing in a couple of larger .used solar panels
Interesting idea. Thanks.
as a wood worker, contracter, farmer, landowner, etc etc.......move the wood stove so it can be loaded from outside the kiln.........doors closed, air intake for stove is outside and the drying flow can be controled as you wish...................just another view and I commend u for doing the deed
How would it work with the splitter to load your next piece against the butt of the previous one? It seems like taking the piece that didn’t split all the way and finishing it by hand each time might be unnecessary.
In this video I was just splitting a couple of pieces to do the moisture test and we wanted to keep track of the different pieces and which side was the fresh split side so we were doing things more slowly. Plenty of other videos on the channel running the splitter with higher production in mind if you want to see what its capable of. Thanks for watching.
@@WoodsTreeFarm good deal! Y’all are an inspiration to watch and learn from. Thank you for the reply 😊
You need to scale back the volume of wood to a stable, known challenge. The obvious goal and obvious limitation to the entire system is the water in the wood. Let's say you have 5 gallons of water to remove from a tote - changing and varying that volume of wood the way you are is killing your analysis. I'd scale back to a known volume, of equal moisture content, say 4 totes. That allows consistent maximum airflow as you refine your systems, then as the process stabilizes you can start maximizing your yield and realize the capacity and what direction to head for improvements.
use moisture meter across the grain...........read manual
I will test both ways to see if there's any kind of difference in the reading. But seriously my man, you can't assume a manual wasn't read or followed. How about you read it manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/67000-67999/67143.pdf