I'm heating up my new kiln for a test run as I write this. I'm watching the Inkbird to see if it shuts off heat and then reheats properly. It shut off heat at 101 and I raised the lid to drop the temp and it kicked on at 96.5. This is great!!! Thanks again for your instructions. Wish I could add a picture. Again, this is great!
@@crocuscreekwoodworks UPDATE: I've been really busy doing other projects, but I managed to get five bowls roughed in and in the kiln. Two are ready to finish on the lathe. I'm excited.
Just ordered all the items to build my kiln. Drying my wood has been the bottleneck for me in turning bowls. I've sealed them, then put them on a shelf for a year, or in a paper sack with shavings or soaked them in de-natured alcohol and I've tried setting them in silicone beads. Each process gave me OK results, but it's time to bite the bullet and do it right. How you explain the process makes it simple and I'm all about keeping it simple. Thanks for the video, you taught me a lot!
Hello. I am so glad I could help. You will be amazed at how well this works. There may be a few adjustments here or there but for the most part it works as simple as I explained in the video. If you need any help, feel free to reach out anytime. I will try to do what I can to assist. Happy drying!
This is cool. Been wood turning since 2018 and finally looking to build a wood kiln. Don't have a lot of room in my garage for one at the moment, but think this will help. Thanks for sharing!
That's pretty cool. I use an old apartment fridge as a hot box for my welding rods and found the light bulbs would blow pretty quick. The heating element works great. I guess I need to set up a kiln like this. Thanks for sharing this. It's going to be a game changer for this old rooky turner.
Thanks for stopping by. I appreciate you visit and feedback. I am 100% positive that if you build one of these kilns you will not be disappointed. It works great. Have a Happy New Year and stop by the channel again, I have a lot of new videos on the way!
Hello. The heating element is more efficient than a light bulb because the heat is more consistent. You can find an old freezer at most appliance stores. Thans for stopping by.
Do like your system, and making plans to build one right away. The only thing I would of like to have seen in addition is how you load you wood in the unit .
Yes, I love the system and I use it daily. Loading your wood or blanks is simple. If you are drying boards simply place wood slats between the boards to allow air to travel over and around the boards. If you are loading Bowl Blanks, simply place them on a shelf or rack in the kiln. I hope this helps and the kiln works out for you.
Hey thanks for the build info. Have mine set up and working great. Got an issue with condensation when i open the lid. Is their a way i can prevent it dripping on to my wood.
Do you still put anchor seal or some type of sealer on your items be for you put them in the kiln? Btw, I love the thoroughness of your video. I got all the Amazon items I needed in today and I’m ready to put this together tomorrow. Thank you :)
NO. I never use any sealer on the wood. I turn WET wood thick and dry until the turned blank is @ 8-12% moisture content then I re-turn to finish the piece. The kiln woks great and I use it daily. Thanks for stopping by and commenting.
Great use of something that might otherwise end up in the landfill. I imagine you get some shrinkage when the bowls dry, are you only turning solid pieces? Seems if you glue up blanks the drying might cause separation in the glue joints after turning.
I do not do glue-ups in the kiln. I do dry flat boards in the kiln then do a glue-up. The kiln works great. I place pre-turned bowls in the kiln then after they dry, I re-turn them to a finished bowl. Thanks for stopping by and for your feedback.
I really like what you've done here. I also like the idea of running a drain line outside the box so you don't have to keep opening the door. One thing I don't understand is the purpose of the vents at each end. I think with the dehumidifier you don't need to vent any moisture. So what are you trying yo vent?
Hello. The vent allows the HOT air that is in the kiln to be vented while the heating element is OFF. This allows the interior temp to be reduced and allows the dehumidifier to do its job effectively and keeps the wood from drying too fast. This is the way I have tested it, and it works fantastic. If there is a better way, I would love to incorporate it into the unit. A drain line can be used. My units do not sit high enough off the floor, nor are they close enough to drain outside.
Thanks for the tutorial, one of these days I hope to make room in my garage for one of these. Do you have to empty the humidifier daily during the first couple days of loading it up?
Thanks for stopping by. Keep in mind you can build one of these out of a small Dorm Refrigerator that takes up less space. Just use the same materials. On the dehumidifier, NO, you do not have to empty it daily. In fact, most of the time, even when the kiln is full of bowl blanks, once a week at the most. Just keep an eye on it. It usually takes @ 10 days to dry a rough turned bowl or platter.
Thanks for all the great ideas. You have motivated me to move up from the food dehydrator I've been using. As you are not pressurizing or or exhausting the air from the cabinet, why the need for vent holes which introduce a minor amount of additional humidity from the ambient air?
Thanks for the visit and feedback. The main reason for the vents is to allow HOT air to escape slowly as the kiln cools. The added air flow, which is constant, moves over the drying pieces and has a place to go. The amount of "extra" humidity created is minimal at best because of the on/off process of the Heat and its escape through the vents. I am not a scientist and do not pretend to understand this process fully, I just know it works well. The overall concept has been presented so if there is room for improvement, I am all ears. Thank you very much for stopping by.
Hello. I am sorry I have no experience with a Damp Rid. The dehumidifier I am using does a great job of collecting the moisture created by the Air flow and Heat.
I built a kiln from an older chest freezer but did not want to cut holes in it. So I placed foam insulation around the lid to seal it better. I now get water accumulation around this area. I still am able to remove water but I don't believe as much as I could or would like. My question is, why do you need to cut holes in the side and then restrict the flow of air. Or is it to let air into the kiln. It is working. I dry buckthorn which is really hard to dry and has shake in it. Please let me know your thoughts when you can. I would appreciate it and I will like your video. Thank you. Richard
Hi Richard and thanks for stopping by. The holes in the kiln are there to regulate the air flow and maintain a consistent temperature inside the kiln. Without the holes you would get a lot of condensation build up very quickly and this could overwhelm the dehumidifier and defeat the overall purpose of removing water from the blanks. Ideally you want the inside of the kiln to stay at the temperature you pre-set, if it doesn't the temp would rise too quickly and cause adverse effects. Stabilization is very important. I hope this answers your question.
Hello. I am not sure what you mean "Bry Logs" unless you are speaking of a log that is already dry. In this kiln system you do not have to seal the ends.
@@crocuscreekwoodworks I meant, short logs that is not cut or shaped to be turn yet, but still some what green. I have bunch that I cut from a tree, I cut them about 4-5 months ago left on the shade, they're about 12"-16" long, diameter vary, up to 20". I cut a 2" off both ends of one, just to see how deep the cracks went, and they're about 1 1/2" deep. Is fall here NYS, wonder what the freezing temp does to green wood. Even though I'm a carpenter never did turn anything, besides turning way from evil! 🤣
@crocuscreekwoodworks Sorry, I meant, to dry a green logs, instead of already shaped bowl blankets. I'm afraid I will not have time to split them, to remove the pit.
In the description you'll find all that needed but just in case you missed it, here it is again: KILN BUILD Dehumidifier - 27 oz(800ml) Small Dehumidifier www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09... UL 12Ft Extension Hanging Lantern Cord Cable JACKYLED 360W with E26 E27 Socket www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08... GDSTIME Big Airflow Dual 120mm Fans DC 12V Powered Fan with AC 110V - 240V Speed Control www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07... Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01... BOEESPAT 60W/100W/150W 2 Pack Ceramic Heat Emitter Bulb - I use the 100-watt bulb www.amazon.com/BOEESPAT-Light... Shelving www.lowes.com/pd/ClosetMaid-4...
Make sure you have a professional HVAC person remove the Freon before cutting into the unit. The motor doesn't matter; however, it is illegal to release freon into the air. If possible, try to find a freezer that the motor has already been removed. The vents you need to cut in the ends of the freezer will most likely be directly over the lines running through the freezer walls. You do NOT want to cut into them with freon in them.
What is the inner size of your smaller freezer. Market for these where I am are to much money. Planing on building my own out of 2x4 and foam board. Want the dimensions close that way the heating element can keep up
The interior size is 24" Wide x 40"Long x 31"Deep. If you get a 150 watt heating element you will have no issues using the Ink Bird unit to regulate the interior heat. I would suggest building the unit with the 2x4's and box it in with 1/4" or 1/2" plywood then put your foam insulation over that. It will hold the heat much better. Thanks for stopping by.
Great video Terry. Thank you. I know you have said a rough turned bowl takes about 5-15 days to dry. how long do you think a bowl blank would take to dry?
Hello. A solid Bowl Blank would take @ 3 weeks or more depending on the type of wood you are drying. I put 4-5 solid blanks my larger kiln at a time, and they are dry in a month. A few tests will tell the tail. There are several variables that you must consider, like venting, air flow and heat. Most of all your operating temp of your kiln. Hope this helps.
This is so cool, I am building one out of an upright freezer! Thanks for all the info, love the video! I do have a question though! If I keep the freezer upright, would mounting everything on the bottom, as you did, work for me, or should I place the fan higher up? I could lay it down with no issues and do it that way, but I like the idea of it being upright! Thanks!
Hello. Thanks for stopping by. Keep in mind that the fans are there to do two very important things, 1- they move air around and across the wood, 2 - they push air through the vents. My answer is NO, place the fans where you can and as you open the vents they will perform as intended. Remember that this area is enclosed so the air must go somewhere so circulation is inevitable. Keeping your Fridge upright would be fine. Thanks again for stopping by.
Hello and thanks for stopping by. The moisture content in a piece is critical for no other reason than stabilization. The correct moisture content should be somewhere between 6-12%, I like 8 - 10% with my target being 8%. You must be careful not to over dry or cracking may happen. In some wood types cracking will happen regardless.
In some cases my kiln stops pulling water.. yet the pieces in it are still 20-30% or more. Do I crank up the heat ? Is it because it is not fully loaded down? Any advice is appreciated .
Hello. I see that too on some pieces. I re-read the moisture in another area of the piece for an accurate reading. Many times, the piece is Dry, and the reading can give a false positive or an incorrect reading. You can try to up the heat, but most likely cracking will occur. You may even see your dehumidifier shut off.
Great video! Tomorrow I start to get components for construction. I need it for drying and final preparation of wood for building guitars. What do you think, will it be good? These are pieces for the body (basswood, flamed maple, ash, mahogany...) dimensions about 40x45x4.5cm and for the neck (most often is maple) around 70x10x3cm. The target moisture percentage should be around 6-8%
Sounds great! It sounds like you have a plan. I will say that when making these parts, make them a bit oversized to compensate for shrinkage and / or warping. You should have no problem getting to your desired Moisture content level. On larger pieces expect longer drying times. Good luck and let me know how it goes.
@@crocuscreekwoodworks Hi. The kiln was started today :) One question, when should I open that vent/hole? How will I know if I should open or close it?
@@crocuscreekwoodworks Hi. The kiln was started today :) One question, when should I open that vent/hole? How will I know if I should open or close it?
@@durajistique Hello. Great question. Open the vent to @ 1/4" and leave it alone. It stays open all the time to allow the heat to slowly leave the kiln, so the interior temp is regulated properly. You are going to love this. It works fantastic. If you have any other questions, feel free to ask.
Hello. Thanks for the feedback. I had these freezers in my barn when I started but you can find them on Craigs List, Facebook, Local salvage /repair stores or Family that might be buying a new freezer or fridge. I like the Horizonal Freezers, but the vertical freezers / fridge is great if space is an issue.
Another Update from South MS. Outside daily temps are close to 90 degrees, night temps are 70's. I had to enlarge the 1 1/2" air vents to 3" and have them set wide open.
@@crocuscreekwoodworks no. The humidifier seems to be working well. I did start putting anchor seal on the entire bowl and it's slowed the process. I'll wait and see just how much slower. I have one bowl made of Kentucky coffee bean. It was full water and the tree had been cut and laying on the ground three years. MC was still 35%. I had to lower the set max temp to 90 degrees. It was staying at 105 with no heat during the day. It now stays around 95.
For awhile mine was capturing good moisture yet still having condensation on the sides.. now that I added another small dehumidifier it is still condensating…. Any advice. Thank you.
Mine does the same thing. I have tried to reduce the heat a few degrees and it seems to help. What I have noticed ids that after the wood is dry or down to a certain moisture content the condensation will go away. Venting can also reduce this too. Try opening the side vents a bet more. If you find a way that works best for you, please share it here. Thanks
Update: I live in South MS. So with daily temps now reaching the mid 80 degree this spring, I had to open the 1 1/2" air vents all the way and add 5 degrees to the calibrate mode of the Inkbird to maintain 100 degrees. My shop is insulated, but no air-conditioning. I'll probably have to adjust again with the summer temps.
Hello, that is great info. I have never had any issues with changing the ventilation here is Ky but in higher Humidity areas it's good to know that an adjustment is needed. Hope all is working out good with your Kiln.
@@crocuscreekwoodworks I've turned two, have 3 more at 6% waiting on me and two that were 35%, 9 days ago, I checked those today, they're now at 12%. No bad cracks. Something I've learned to do is when I put a bowl in at 35%, I'll check it at the end of the day and the next couple of days. If I see a small crack starting, I'll put some thin CA glue in it. So far I've not had a crack to continue. Thanks again.
Hello. Thanks for stopping by. You can go to a larger fan but keep in mind that the fans simply move air over the wood and push it out the vents...slowly, would I use a large fan? Yes, but get one that is variable speed so you can slow it down. On the heat source I would use the same heating element but with a higher wattage like 150 -200 watts. Keep in mind the Ink Bird will regulate this heat. You do not want to dry your wood too fast and surpass the work of the Fans and Dehumidifier. I hope this helps. Reach out with more questions if you have them.
Hi, thanks for stopping by. I don't think so because the air flow does two important things; first it circulates the heat throughout the kiln and assist in the drying process and next, it pushes the air out the exhaust outlets allowing the kiln to cool when the heat is turned off by the Ink Bird regulator. The fan in the Dehumidifier has little to no effect however, it does produce a bit of heat which does not affect the overall process. There are other ways to accomplish this drying process but this works so well I think I will stick with it.
Here is the list you'll need: A Freezer - Either upright or horizontal KILN BUILD Dehumidifier - 27 oz(800ml) Small Dehumidifier www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09B9R6X9G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 UL 12Ft Extension Hanging Lantern Cord Cable JACKYLED 360W with E26 E27 Socket www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08CDVW3YR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 GDSTIME Big Airflow Dual 120mm Fans DC 12V Powered Fan with AC 110V - 240V Speed Control www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WSZWNMM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HXM5UAC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 BOEESPAT 60W/100W/150W 2 Pack Ceramic Heat Emitter Bulb - I use the 100-watt bulb www.amazon.com/BOEESPAT-Light-No-Amphibians-Hamsters-Habitats/dp/B07WLZB5T4/ref=sr_1_11?crid=HIN208JKAO15&keywords=150%2Bwatt%2Bceramic%2Bheat%2Bbulb&qid=1660773466&sprefix=150%2Bwatt%2Bceramic%2Bheat%2Bbulb%2Caps%2C172&sr=8-11&th=1 Shelving www.lowes.com/pd/ClosetMaid-4-ft-x-16-in-White-Wire-Shelf/1091025
There are lots of different ways to do what you want to do. I would recommend a Solar Kiln outside. It's fairly cheap and easy to build. Build a box to suit your needs, insulate the interior and seal the roof with clear, corrugated sheets and let the Sun do the rest. Now if you want to go faster, add the heating element I use but use a 150-watt bulb for the heat and a small fan to keep the heat circulating, don't worry about the dehumidifier because it won't matter if the wood cracks. You do want to vent the unit slightly to maintain a consistent heat. This is where the Ink Bird will come in so you can set the temp you want your kiln to be. I hope this helps.
@@4162bike Sorry for the delay in responding. I have mine set to 100 degrees so 103 would be fine. Don't go too hot because it will dry the wood too fast.
Hi. The condensation is coming from the moisture release from your projects and the proper ventilation. A couple of questions: 1. Do you have two vents cut into the side of your unit and how open are they (1/4" - 1/2" is all that is needed? 2. Are you using a Dehumidifier? If you do not have a Dehumidifier or one that will keep up with the drying of the wood, condensation can build up from that. 3. Are you using a fan inside the kiln? Let me know the answers and I will try to help you solve this issue.
@@crocuscreekwoodworks yes I have 2 vents set about 1/4", 3/4" hole.. dehumidifier is rated at 210sq feet. same heating element as yours, small oscillating fan, One thing that might be a problem is the shop cools off at night , around 50, do you think i need more fresh air or less?, or maybe moving dehumidifier to a upper shelf? , thanks
@@JOSEPHBLAIR-ij5tp For some reason I just saw this, I apologize for the delay in responding. The solution may be a combination of things. First. increase the heat in the kiln and next, open the vents a bit wider to allow more air flow. I do not feel like the temp in the shop will affect the interior of your kiln because the freezer is insulated. I too get a bit of condensation. If you can get the dehumidifier higher in the kiln that could help also because heat rises. Let me know if this fixes the issues.
Hello Ryan. No, I do not use End Grain Sealer. I like the bowl to dry as naturally as possible and then I can fill where needed. ALL bowls placed into the Kiln/Dryer will warp & crack to some degree and most already have cracks. A little CA glue prior to the Kiln works great in most cases. Once they come out of the kiln, I re-turn them to balance the entire piece.
I think when I get mine built I’m going to test some with and some without (guessing drying time will be increased with sealer on them). I received all the components to build one in the mail last week. Now I just need to find a chest freezer. Looking for one about as big as your second one. I’d like more videos on those if you have and other info on them. I feel it’s pretty straight forward but ya never know. Thx!
@@ktmking250 Sorry for my delay in responding. Here are few others here on the channel: ua-cam.com/video/JIBmv1RxKkw/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/z2dvOHx58og/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/x0EXTvmYByc/v-deo.html
Typically 40% - 50% humidity inside the Kiln but this can vary. I am finding that, on average, the moisture content starts @ 50 -90% and takes 5-15 days to get to @ 12% Moisture Content, many times even lower. The Fans, Heat and Venting all play a major role, yet the type of wood will affect the drying process i.e. Cedar dry's faster than Oak. Hope this helps.
You introduce humidity with every time you open it to get rid of the condensed water. In another word part of your condensed water is coming from the air you introduced. It will prolong the process. You should find away to drain the condensed water out without opening the kiln.
Great point! However, it would be a concern if I were a commercial shop with a timeline to meet. With that said, if I can dry a rough-turned bowl in 5-15 days, does it really matter? It would not be too difficult to attach a hose to the Dehumidifier collection pale and drain the water as it is collected.
A lot of the wood I get for free comes from trees that have been attacked by wood beetles. Is 100° sufficient to kill the bugs and their eggs? What is the highest temperature I can safely achieve? My supplier of dry, pretty material sets kis large room at 200° to be certain of that because he ships worldwide and has to make sure he isn't sending any stowaways with his products. The last thing I want is to give a gift or sell something at a market and have someone call and tell me there's a bunch of bugs crawling out of their lamp or bowl. I would appreciate any suggestions on how to make sure there isn't anything living in my kiln. -Archie in Oregon
Hello. There are several different types of "Heating Elements" in different wattages - I would consider a 200 - 250-watt element. Make sure the receptacle will accept this wattage. This wattage can be dangerous and could start a fire so make sure it is not close to anything flammable in the kiln. If you are trying to kill the bugs, you'll need a Heating element that will get to @ 133 degrees consistently. Keep in mind that at that temp the wood will dry very fast, but everything will be killed. I would make sure you leave the bowl in the kiln for at least 24 hours or more to insure there is nothing alive. Hope this helps
@@crocuscreekwoodworks awesome. I think that would be a final stage temperature. I'm reading your response and imagining a batcing process. It will probably work best for now as I only get a limited opportunity to actually get any turning done. If I was turning daily batching might hault my productivity. Thanks for your help with my question. -Archie
Greetings from Hungary! I built the system! I would like to share my experience. 2-3 years ago I put cut oak slices (discs) in the chest. I built a tap on the side of the dehumidifier so that you don't have to open the door. On average, I let out about 1.2 deciliters of water per day, I'm already on the 7th day. My question is whether this amount of water will decrease in, say, the 10-15th. Day? or maybe when there is absolutely no water, then I know how I can achieve the right moisture content of the wood slices? Thanks for the answer: Krisztián
Thanks for stopping by. I would check the moisture content of the wood you place in your kiln every couple of days to see the progress. Some wood will take longer, and it will not hurt if the dehumidifier is drawing less and less moisture. All this will greatly depend on the amount of wood you have in the kiln at the same time. When I have a lot of pieces in the kiln there are times when I will empty the dehumidifier every couple of days. Also, keep in mind some wood types will dry faster than others. Leaving wood in the kiln after it is dry to @ 8% moisture is not recommended and I would place it on a shelf in the shop until you are ready to use the wood. Pull it out and check it before you use the wood. If needed, place it back in the Kiln for a couple of days. The room temperature where you will store or use the wood is also a factor. I hope this helps.
@@crocuscreekwoodworks I got the controller set up. it was set for 100 Fahrenheit. it was running for 24 hours. but when i got up it was at 122 Fahrenheit. so i must have done somthing wrong. i will have to check to make sure that the fan is still working.
@@daniel-vn4ql Sorry for the delay in replying. Make sure you set the on / off Settings for the Ink Bird. It will regulate automatically.. Also, your heat level is determined by your heating element wattage and how large or small your freezer or fridge is. An adjustment on the ink bird will stop this from happening in the future. Set it to go OFF @ 100 and come ON @ 97. Hope this helps.
@@crocuscreekwoodworks i have discovered the problem. My dehumidifier is putting out a ton of heat. it puts out so much heat that it can heat the fridge with no heat lamp plugged in. do you think i could plug the dehumidifier into the inkl bird and heat it that way. or is my dehumidifier not working well.
@@daniel-vn4ql I am so sorry for not responding to your question. Yes, plugging the dehumidifier into the ink bird will shut it on and off like the heating element and reduce the amount of heat it produces and introduces into the kiln.
Anything that produces heat is efficient at producing heat. A lightbulb or a heater - same efficiency at producing heat. NOt same as producing other emissions, just same for heat!
I suppose longevity would have been a better suggestion rather than efficiency however, I have used both and the Heating Element works much better than a Lightbulb.
When decommissioning the freezer, what do you do with the refrigerant gas? It's illegal to just release it into the atmosphere because it degrades the ozone layer. Don't tell me it's just a little gas... Please be responsible and do the right thing.
The freezers I have used had the compressor removed already so no issue there. That information would be a good update video. Thanks for the comment and important information.
I'm heating up my new kiln for a test run as I write this. I'm watching the Inkbird to see if it shuts off heat and then reheats properly. It shut off heat at 101 and I raised the lid to drop the temp and it kicked on at 96.5. This is great!!! Thanks again for your instructions. Wish I could add a picture. Again, this is great!
Sounds great! I am glad it is going to help you in your work. If I can help, let me know.
@@crocuscreekwoodworks UPDATE: I've been really busy doing other projects, but I managed to get five bowls roughed in and in the kiln. Two are ready to finish on the lathe. I'm excited.
Just ordered all the items to build my kiln. Drying my wood has been the bottleneck for me in turning bowls. I've sealed them, then put them on a shelf for a year, or in a paper sack with shavings or soaked them in de-natured alcohol and I've tried setting them in silicone beads. Each process gave me OK results, but it's time to bite the bullet and do it right. How you explain the process makes it simple and I'm all about keeping it simple. Thanks for the video, you taught me a lot!
Hello. I am so glad I could help. You will be amazed at how well this works. There may be a few adjustments here or there but for the most part it works as simple as I explained in the video. If you need any help, feel free to reach out anytime. I will try to do what I can to assist. Happy drying!
This is cool. Been wood turning since 2018 and finally looking to build a wood kiln. Don't have a lot of room in my garage for one at the moment, but think this will help. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks so much! You can build a smaller version for smaller spaces.
That's pretty cool. I use an old apartment fridge as a hot box for my welding rods and found the light bulbs would blow pretty quick. The heating element works great. I guess I need to set up a kiln like this. Thanks for sharing this. It's going to be a game changer for this old rooky turner.
Thanks for stopping by. I appreciate you visit and feedback. I am 100% positive that if you build one of these kilns you will not be disappointed. It works great. Have a Happy New Year and stop by the channel again, I have a lot of new videos on the way!
Simple, but effective, solution.
Thanks for stopping by. It really does work great!
Hi, I use a light in my kiln. I’m gonna look around for a freezer and do what you have done.
Hello. The heating element is more efficient than a light bulb because the heat is more consistent. You can find an old freezer at most appliance stores. Thans for stopping by.
Thanks for the info you have answered all my questions that have been bouncing around in my mind now to build my own
Glad I could help. If you have any questions feel free to reach out. Happy Turning!
Can't wait to build one thanks
Hope you enjoy it! It works great!
Do like your system, and making plans to build one right away. The only thing I would of like to have seen in addition is how you load you wood in the unit .
Yes, I love the system and I use it daily. Loading your wood or blanks is simple. If you are drying boards simply place wood slats between the boards to allow air to travel over and around the boards. If you are loading Bowl Blanks, simply place them on a shelf or rack in the kiln. I hope this helps and the kiln works out for you.
YOu could put a drain hose in the little water tray of the Dehumidifier. run the hose outside into a bowl and it will then be easy to empty the water.
Thanks, I do need to try that. Thanks, for the feedback.
If you run the hose outside v just let it run on the ground. No bowl required!
This was so helpful thank you for sharing
You are welcome. If I can help let me know.
Top ik ga dit met mijn zoon maken
Dank u voor de video
Bedankt. Ik ben blij dat je de video leuk vond. De ovens werken prima!
I’d have to get this down to the size of a toaster to put it in my shop.
Actually, you can use a small dorm fridge to save space. Just not a lot of room for mutable bowls.
Great demonstration on building a kiln.
Thank you.
Excellent video Thanks
Glad you enjoyed it and I hope it was helpful. Thanks for stopping by
Good job mate!
Thanks for the visit
Very good video on how to do it.
Thank you so much for sharing this.👍👍
Thank you for stopping by and for your feedback. Stop by anytime. I have many more new projects coming soon.
Hey thanks for the build info. Have mine set up and working great. Got an issue with condensation when i open the lid. Is their a way i can prevent it dripping on to my wood.
The best way is to adjust the Vents Open a bit and raise the Dehumidifier up higher. It may not be capturing all the moisture.
Do you still put anchor seal or some type of sealer on your items be for you put them in the kiln? Btw, I love the thoroughness of your video. I got all the Amazon items I needed in today and I’m ready to put this together tomorrow. Thank you :)
NO. I never use any sealer on the wood. I turn WET wood thick and dry until the turned blank is @ 8-12% moisture content then I re-turn to finish the piece. The kiln woks great and I use it daily. Thanks for stopping by and commenting.
Question: If you use a coring system, which one? Which one would you recommend?
Oneway
Great use of something that might otherwise end up in the landfill. I imagine you get some shrinkage when the bowls dry, are you only turning solid pieces? Seems if you glue up blanks the drying might cause separation in the glue joints after turning.
I do not do glue-ups in the kiln. I do dry flat boards in the kiln then do a glue-up. The kiln works great. I place pre-turned bowls in the kiln then after they dry, I re-turn them to a finished bowl. Thanks for stopping by and for your feedback.
I really like what you've done here. I also like the idea of running a drain line outside the box so you don't have to keep opening the door.
One thing I don't understand is the purpose of the vents at each end. I think with the dehumidifier you don't need to vent any moisture. So what are you trying yo vent?
Hello. The vent allows the HOT air that is in the kiln to be vented while the heating element is OFF. This allows the interior temp to be reduced and allows the dehumidifier to do its job effectively and keeps the wood from drying too fast. This is the way I have tested it, and it works fantastic. If there is a better way, I would love to incorporate it into the unit. A drain line can be used. My units do not sit high enough off the floor, nor are they close enough to drain outside.
Can you just put the unit on blocks to get it off the ground, then run the drain line under the unit and drain outside.@@crocuscreekwoodworks
Thanks for the tutorial, one of these days I hope to make room in my garage for one of these. Do you have to empty the humidifier daily during the first couple days of loading it up?
Thanks for stopping by. Keep in mind you can build one of these out of a small Dorm Refrigerator that takes up less space. Just use the same materials. On the dehumidifier, NO, you do not have to empty it daily. In fact, most of the time, even when the kiln is full of bowl blanks, once a week at the most. Just keep an eye on it. It usually takes @ 10 days to dry a rough turned bowl or platter.
Thanks for all the great ideas. You have motivated me to move up from the food dehydrator I've been using. As you are not pressurizing or or exhausting the air from the cabinet, why the need for vent holes which introduce a minor amount of additional humidity from the ambient air?
Thanks for the visit and feedback. The main reason for the vents is to allow HOT air to escape slowly as the kiln cools. The added air flow, which is constant, moves over the drying pieces and has a place to go. The amount of "extra" humidity created is minimal at best because of the on/off process of the Heat and its escape through the vents. I am not a scientist and do not pretend to understand this process fully, I just know it works well. The overall concept has been presented so if there is room for improvement, I am all ears. Thank you very much for stopping by.
Out of curiosity, is there an advantage to using the electric dehumidifier vs something like Damp Rid?
Hello. I am sorry I have no experience with a Damp Rid. The dehumidifier I am using does a great job of collecting the moisture created by the Air flow and Heat.
I built a kiln from an older chest freezer but did not want to cut holes in it. So I placed foam insulation around the lid to seal it better. I now get water accumulation around this area. I still am able to remove water but I don't believe as much as I could or would like. My question is, why do you need to cut holes in the side and then restrict the flow of air. Or is it to let air into the kiln. It is working. I dry buckthorn which is really hard to dry and has shake in it. Please let me know your thoughts when you can. I would appreciate it and I will like your video. Thank you. Richard
Hi Richard and thanks for stopping by. The holes in the kiln are there to regulate the air flow and maintain a consistent temperature inside the kiln. Without the holes you would get a lot of condensation build up very quickly and this could overwhelm the dehumidifier and defeat the overall purpose of removing water from the blanks. Ideally you want the inside of the kiln to stay at the temperature you pre-set, if it doesn't the temp would rise too quickly and cause adverse effects. Stabilization is very important. I hope this answers your question.
Yes, the kiln work perfectly and dry's most wood types in less than two weeks. In many cases in just a few days.
Could I use one of those to dry logs? Shor ones for 10"-18" bowls. Still need to seal the ends, right? Thanks!
Hello. I am not sure what you mean "Bry Logs" unless you are speaking of a log that is already dry. In this kiln system you do not have to seal the ends.
@@crocuscreekwoodworks I meant, short logs that is not cut or shaped to be turn yet, but still some what green. I have bunch that I cut from a tree, I cut them about 4-5 months ago left on the shade, they're about 12"-16" long, diameter vary, up to 20". I cut a 2" off both ends of one, just to see how deep the cracks went, and they're about 1 1/2" deep. Is fall here NYS, wonder what the freezing temp does to green wood. Even though I'm a carpenter never did turn anything, besides turning way from evil! 🤣
@crocuscreekwoodworks Sorry, I meant, to dry a green logs, instead of already shaped bowl blankets. I'm afraid I will not have time to split them, to remove the pit.
Good video. Do you hve a parts list for building the kiln? Ed Meyer
In the description you'll find all that needed but just in case you missed it, here it is again:
KILN BUILD
Dehumidifier - 27 oz(800ml) Small Dehumidifier
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09...
UL 12Ft Extension Hanging Lantern Cord Cable JACKYLED 360W with E26 E27 Socket
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08...
GDSTIME Big Airflow Dual 120mm Fans DC 12V Powered Fan with AC 110V - 240V Speed Control
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01...
BOEESPAT 60W/100W/150W 2 Pack Ceramic Heat Emitter Bulb - I use the 100-watt bulb
www.amazon.com/BOEESPAT-Light...
Shelving
www.lowes.com/pd/ClosetMaid-4...
Do i have to remove the freezers motor and stuff? Or is it ok just to leave it unplugged?
Make sure you have a professional HVAC person remove the Freon before cutting into the unit. The motor doesn't matter; however, it is illegal to release freon into the air. If possible, try to find a freezer that the motor has already been removed. The vents you need to cut in the ends of the freezer will most likely be directly over the lines running through the freezer walls. You do NOT want to cut into them with freon in them.
What is the inner size of your smaller freezer. Market for these where I am are to much money. Planing on building my own out of 2x4 and foam board. Want the dimensions close that way the heating element can keep up
The interior size is 24" Wide x 40"Long x 31"Deep. If you get a 150 watt heating element you will have no issues using the Ink Bird unit to regulate the interior heat. I would suggest building the unit with the 2x4's and box it in with 1/4" or 1/2" plywood then put your foam insulation over that. It will hold the heat much better. Thanks for stopping by.
Great video Terry. Thank you. I know you have said a rough turned bowl takes about 5-15 days to dry. how long do you think a bowl blank would take to dry?
Hello. A solid Bowl Blank would take @ 3 weeks or more depending on the type of wood you are drying. I put 4-5 solid blanks my larger kiln at a time, and they are dry in a month. A few tests will tell the tail. There are several variables that you must consider, like venting, air flow and heat. Most of all your operating temp of your kiln. Hope this helps.
@@crocuscreekwoodworks thank you I’ll give that a try .
This is so cool, I am building one out of an upright freezer! Thanks for all the info, love the video! I do have a question though! If I keep the freezer upright, would mounting everything on the bottom, as you did, work for me, or should I place the fan higher up? I could lay it down with no issues and do it that way, but I like the idea of it being upright! Thanks!
Hello. Thanks for stopping by. Keep in mind that the fans are there to do two very important things, 1- they move air around and across the wood, 2 - they push air through the vents. My answer is NO, place the fans where you can and as you open the vents they will perform as intended. Remember that this area is enclosed so the air must go somewhere so circulation is inevitable. Keeping your Fridge upright would be fine. Thanks again for stopping by.
What do you consider dry? In other words what percent do you reduce to? New turner.
Hello and thanks for stopping by. The moisture content in a piece is critical for no other reason than stabilization. The correct moisture content should be somewhere between 6-12%, I like 8 - 10% with my target being 8%. You must be careful not to over dry or cracking may happen. In some wood types cracking will happen regardless.
In some cases my kiln stops pulling water.. yet the pieces in it are still 20-30% or more. Do I crank up the heat ? Is it because it is not fully loaded down? Any advice is appreciated .
Hello. I see that too on some pieces. I re-read the moisture in another area of the piece for an accurate reading. Many times, the piece is Dry, and the reading can give a false positive or an incorrect reading. You can try to up the heat, but most likely cracking will occur. You may even see your dehumidifier shut off.
Great video! Tomorrow I start to get components for construction. I need it for drying and final preparation of wood for building guitars. What do you think, will it be good? These are pieces for the body (basswood, flamed maple, ash, mahogany...) dimensions about 40x45x4.5cm and for the neck (most often is maple) around 70x10x3cm. The target moisture percentage should be around 6-8%
Sounds great! It sounds like you have a plan. I will say that when making these parts, make them a bit oversized to compensate for shrinkage and / or warping. You should have no problem getting to your desired Moisture content level. On larger pieces expect longer drying times. Good luck and let me know how it goes.
@@crocuscreekwoodworks Hi. The kiln was started today :) One question, when should I open that vent/hole? How will I know if I should open or close it?
@@crocuscreekwoodworks Hi. The kiln was started today :) One question, when should I open that vent/hole? How will I know if I should open or close it?
@@durajistique Hello. Great question. Open the vent to @ 1/4" and leave it alone. It stays open all the time to allow the heat to slowly leave the kiln, so the interior temp is regulated properly. You are going to love this. It works fantastic. If you have any other questions, feel free to ask.
Thanx. :)
Thanks for sharing, definetly need to find an old freezer. Where did you get yours if not your own to begin with.
Hello. Thanks for the feedback. I had these freezers in my barn when I started but you can find them on Craigs List, Facebook, Local salvage /repair stores or Family that might be buying a new freezer or fridge. I like the Horizonal Freezers, but the vertical freezers / fridge is great if space is an issue.
Another Update from South MS. Outside daily temps are close to 90 degrees, night temps are 70's. I had to enlarge the 1 1/2" air vents to 3" and have them set wide open.
Oh wow! I have never had that issue or have had to open them that far. Are you getting a lot of condensation inside the Kiln?
@@crocuscreekwoodworks no. The humidifier seems to be working well. I did start putting anchor seal on the entire bowl and it's slowed the process. I'll wait and see just how much slower. I have one bowl made of Kentucky coffee bean. It was full water and the tree had been cut and laying on the ground three years. MC was still 35%. I had to lower the set max temp to 90 degrees. It was staying at 105 with no heat during the day. It now stays around 95.
For awhile mine was capturing good moisture yet still having condensation on the sides.. now that I added another small dehumidifier it is still condensating…. Any advice. Thank you.
Mine does the same thing. I have tried to reduce the heat a few degrees and it seems to help. What I have noticed ids that after the wood is dry or down to a certain moisture content the condensation will go away. Venting can also reduce this too. Try opening the side vents a bet more. If you find a way that works best for you, please share it here. Thanks
Update: I live in South MS. So with daily temps now reaching the mid 80 degree this spring, I had to open the 1 1/2" air vents all the way and add 5 degrees to the calibrate mode of the Inkbird to maintain 100 degrees. My shop is insulated, but no air-conditioning. I'll probably have to adjust again with the summer temps.
Hello, that is great info. I have never had any issues with changing the ventilation here is Ky but in higher Humidity areas it's good to know that an adjustment is needed. Hope all is working out good with your Kiln.
@@crocuscreekwoodworks I've turned two, have 3 more at 6% waiting on me and two that were 35%, 9 days ago, I checked those today, they're now at 12%. No bad cracks. Something I've learned to do is when I put a bowl in at 35%, I'll check it at the end of the day and the next couple of days. If I see a small crack starting, I'll put some thin CA glue in it. So far I've not had a crack to continue. Thanks again.
If you had a larger box.. say 4x6. What type of fan would you recommend..and Would you use a different heat source at all?
Hello. Thanks for stopping by. You can go to a larger fan but keep in mind that the fans simply move air over the wood and push it out the vents...slowly, would I use a large fan? Yes, but get one that is variable speed so you can slow it down. On the heat source I would use the same heating element but with a higher wattage like 150 -200 watts. Keep in mind the Ink Bird will regulate this heat. You do not want to dry your wood too fast and surpass the work of the Fans and Dehumidifier. I hope this helps. Reach out with more questions if you have them.
Thank you, your video is put together very well, very informative and direct with no misleading information. Your a great speaker.
And lastly.. what was your idea behind making the top air vent on the side rather than on top? Just because that is your door?
If you directed or pulled the in/out air of the dehumidifier could you eliminate the fan?
Hi, thanks for stopping by. I don't think so because the air flow does two important things; first it circulates the heat throughout the kiln and assist in the drying process and next, it pushes the air out the exhaust outlets allowing the kiln to cool when the heat is turned off by the Ink Bird regulator. The fan in the Dehumidifier has little to no effect however, it does produce a bit of heat which does not affect the overall process. There are other ways to accomplish this drying process but this works so well I think I will stick with it.
Having trouble on your list of material.
Not sure what to click on.
Here is the list you'll need:
A Freezer - Either upright or horizontal
KILN BUILD
Dehumidifier - 27 oz(800ml) Small Dehumidifier
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09B9R6X9G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
UL 12Ft Extension Hanging Lantern Cord Cable JACKYLED 360W with E26 E27 Socket
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08CDVW3YR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
GDSTIME Big Airflow Dual 120mm Fans DC 12V Powered Fan with AC 110V - 240V Speed Control
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WSZWNMM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HXM5UAC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
BOEESPAT 60W/100W/150W 2 Pack Ceramic Heat Emitter Bulb - I use the 100-watt bulb
www.amazon.com/BOEESPAT-Light-No-Amphibians-Hamsters-Habitats/dp/B07WLZB5T4/ref=sr_1_11?crid=HIN208JKAO15&keywords=150%2Bwatt%2Bceramic%2Bheat%2Bbulb&qid=1660773466&sprefix=150%2Bwatt%2Bceramic%2Bheat%2Bbulb%2Caps%2C172&sr=8-11&th=1
Shelving
www.lowes.com/pd/ClosetMaid-4-ft-x-16-in-White-Wire-Shelf/1091025
I want to build a kiln for firewood so I don't care if it cracks, do you have any recommendations for a higher temperature setup?
There are lots of different ways to do what you want to do. I would recommend a Solar Kiln outside. It's fairly cheap and easy to build. Build a box to suit your needs, insulate the interior and seal the roof with clear, corrugated sheets and let the Sun do the rest. Now if you want to go faster, add the heating element I use but use a 150-watt bulb for the heat and a small fan to keep the heat circulating, don't worry about the dehumidifier because it won't matter if the wood cracks. You do want to vent the unit slightly to maintain a consistent heat. This is where the Ink Bird will come in so you can set the temp you want your kiln to be. I hope this helps.
@@crocuscreekwoodworks thank you for the info
Does the inkbird allow the fan to run continuously?
Hello. The fan is not connected to the Ink Bird so it runs continuously and should for air circulation.
Thanks. What would be the optimum temperature for the kiln? I have it set and holding at 103 degrees.
@@4162bike Sorry for the delay in responding. I have mine set to 100 degrees so 103 would be fine. Don't go too hot because it will dry the wood too fast.
I built a kiln from a upright freezer, why am i having condensation? thanks
Hi. The condensation is coming from the moisture release from your projects and the proper ventilation. A couple of questions: 1. Do you have two vents cut into the side of your unit and how open are they (1/4" - 1/2" is all that is needed? 2. Are you using a Dehumidifier? If you do not have a Dehumidifier or one that will keep up with the drying of the wood, condensation can build up from that. 3. Are you using a fan inside the kiln? Let me know the answers and I will try to help you solve this issue.
@@crocuscreekwoodworks yes I have 2 vents set about 1/4", 3/4" hole.. dehumidifier is rated at 210sq feet. same heating element as yours, small oscillating fan, One thing that might be a problem is the shop cools off at night , around 50, do you think i need more fresh air or less?, or maybe moving dehumidifier to a upper shelf? , thanks
@@JOSEPHBLAIR-ij5tp For some reason I just saw this, I apologize for the delay in responding. The solution may be a combination of things. First. increase the heat in the kiln and next, open the vents a bit wider to allow more air flow. I do not feel like the temp in the shop will affect the interior of your kiln because the freezer is insulated. I too get a bit of condensation. If you can get the dehumidifier higher in the kiln that could help also because heat rises. Let me know if this fixes the issues.
I like a large microwave to dry my green turned bowl. Done in a day and then true up again on the lathe again.
That is great if it works for you. Thanks for stopping by
Do you put end grain sealer on your bowls while they are in the drier?
Hello Ryan. No, I do not use End Grain Sealer. I like the bowl to dry as naturally as possible and then I can fill where needed. ALL bowls placed into the Kiln/Dryer will warp & crack to some degree and most already have cracks. A little CA glue prior to the Kiln works great in most cases. Once they come out of the kiln, I re-turn them to balance the entire piece.
I think when I get mine built I’m going to test some with and some without (guessing drying time will be increased with sealer on them). I received all the components to build one in the mail last week. Now I just need to find a chest freezer. Looking for one about as big as your second one. I’d like more videos on those if you have and other info on them. I feel it’s pretty straight forward but ya never know. Thx!
@@ktmking250 Sorry for my delay in responding. Here are few others here on the channel:
ua-cam.com/video/JIBmv1RxKkw/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/z2dvOHx58og/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/x0EXTvmYByc/v-deo.html
At what of humidity do you dry to wood down to?
Typically 40% - 50% humidity inside the Kiln but this can vary. I am finding that, on average, the moisture content starts @ 50 -90% and takes 5-15 days to get to @ 12% Moisture Content, many times even lower. The Fans, Heat and Venting all play a major role, yet the type of wood will affect the drying process i.e. Cedar dry's faster than Oak. Hope this helps.
You introduce humidity with every time you open it to get rid of the condensed water. In another word part of your condensed water is coming from the air you introduced. It will prolong the process. You should find away to drain the condensed water out without opening the kiln.
Great point! However, it would be a concern if I were a commercial shop with a timeline to meet. With that said, if I can dry a rough-turned bowl in 5-15 days, does it really matter? It would not be too difficult to attach a hose to the Dehumidifier collection pale and drain the water as it is collected.
A lot of the wood I get for free comes from trees that have been attacked by wood beetles. Is 100° sufficient to kill the bugs and their eggs? What is the highest temperature I can safely achieve? My supplier of dry, pretty material sets kis large room at 200° to be certain of that because he ships worldwide and has to make sure he isn't sending any stowaways with his products. The last thing I want is to give a gift or sell something at a market and have someone call and tell me there's a bunch of bugs crawling out of their lamp or bowl. I would appreciate any suggestions on how to make sure there isn't anything living in my kiln. -Archie in Oregon
Hello. There are several different types of "Heating Elements" in different wattages - I would consider a 200 - 250-watt element. Make sure the receptacle will accept this wattage. This wattage can be dangerous and could start a fire so make sure it is not close to anything flammable in the kiln. If you are trying to kill the bugs, you'll need a Heating element that will get to @ 133 degrees consistently. Keep in mind that at that temp the wood will dry very fast, but everything will be killed. I would make sure you leave the bowl in the kiln for at least 24 hours or more to insure there is nothing alive. Hope this helps
@@crocuscreekwoodworks awesome. I think that would be a final stage temperature. I'm reading your response and imagining a batcing process. It will probably work best for now as I only get a limited opportunity to actually get any turning done. If I was turning daily batching might hault my productivity. Thanks for your help with my question.
-Archie
Greetings from Hungary! I built the system! I would like to share my experience. 2-3 years ago I put cut oak slices (discs) in the chest. I built a tap on the side of the dehumidifier so that you don't have to open the door. On average, I let out about 1.2 deciliters of water per day, I'm already on the 7th day. My question is whether this amount of water will decrease in, say, the 10-15th. Day? or maybe when there is absolutely no water, then I know how I can achieve the right moisture content of the wood slices? Thanks for the answer: Krisztián
Thanks for stopping by. I would check the moisture content of the wood you place in your kiln every couple of days to see the progress. Some wood will take longer, and it will not hurt if the dehumidifier is drawing less and less moisture. All this will greatly depend on the amount of wood you have in the kiln at the same time. When I have a lot of pieces in the kiln there are times when I will empty the dehumidifier every couple of days. Also, keep in mind some wood types will dry faster than others. Leaving wood in the kiln after it is dry to @ 8% moisture is not recommended and I would place it on a shelf in the shop until you are ready to use the wood. Pull it out and check it before you use the wood. If needed, place it back in the Kiln for a couple of days. The room temperature where you will store or use the wood is also a factor. I hope this helps.
sorry why did you not show the set up of the controller.
Hello. The controller is very simple to set up and has easy to follow instructions. Also because of the video length. Thanks for stopping by.
@@crocuscreekwoodworks I got the controller set up. it was set for 100 Fahrenheit. it was running for 24 hours. but when i got up it was at 122 Fahrenheit. so i must have done somthing wrong. i will have to check to make sure that the fan is still working.
@@daniel-vn4ql Sorry for the delay in replying. Make sure you set the on / off Settings for the Ink Bird. It will regulate automatically.. Also, your heat level is determined by your heating element wattage and how large or small your freezer or fridge is. An adjustment on the ink bird will stop this from happening in the future. Set it to go OFF @ 100 and come ON @ 97. Hope this helps.
@@crocuscreekwoodworks i have discovered the problem. My dehumidifier is putting out a ton of heat. it puts out so much heat that it can heat the fridge with no heat lamp plugged in. do you think i could plug the dehumidifier into the inkl bird and heat it that way. or is my dehumidifier not working well.
@@daniel-vn4ql I am so sorry for not responding to your question. Yes, plugging the dehumidifier into the ink bird will shut it on and off like the heating element and reduce the amount of heat it produces and introduces into the kiln.
Anything that produces heat is efficient at producing heat. A lightbulb or a heater - same efficiency at producing heat. NOt same as producing other emissions, just same for heat!
I suppose longevity would have been a better suggestion rather than efficiency however, I have used both and the Heating Element works much better than a Lightbulb.
When decommissioning the freezer, what do you do with the refrigerant gas? It's illegal to just release it into the atmosphere because it degrades the ozone layer. Don't tell me it's just a little gas... Please be responsible and do the right thing.
The freezers I have used had the compressor removed already so no issue there. That information would be a good update video. Thanks for the comment and important information.