Your verbal explanation is really good as is your vocabulary, it is even better when you narrate your own action as you did showing us how to stop the auger in the hole, raise and bring up the dirt, fling off, stop, lower, repeat. That will save many of us lots of time experimenting and maybe not even discovering how well that works. Thank you.
@@benkanobe7500 The method worked for me - with a hydro transmission things would be different, and with different soil things might be different too. The key is not to bury the auger! Go slow and clean out the hole as you go…
@@ProductiveRecreation This the 4th or 5th LP Post hole digger how to or example and I can tell you that your developed method works best and it would in clay as well.
I think on the bottom where you was talking about the turnbuckles. Maybe if you would reverse those pins holding the post hole digger to where those bars are to the inside of the digger it would take the slack out of the turnbuckles.
How do you like your 1700 over the 9n? I have a 48" 8n and as fun as it is, seems like i need to upgrade to a bigger, newer unit at some point. I habe trouble keeping the front wheels down on our hillside pasture which sketches me out
I never drove the 9N. The 1700 came onto the farm brand new in 1982 a little before I was born, and the 9N got sold off because it was running finicky and needed an overhaul. However, knowing the specs on it, I like the 1700 a lot. I’ve made several videos about/with it. With 12 speeds I have a gear for everything. The 2 cylinder diesel is simple too, and good on fuel. I work on hills and the loader keeps the front end down. I’ve put a couple concrete blocks in the bucket before as insurance too. Without the loader, suitcase weights on the front would be a must. I also use 4wd often in the woods and on hills for more traction. Not an option on the 9N. When it comes to weight, the 1700 is lighter. Traction runs out before power if you are using the right gear for the job. Overall, the 1700 is a beast of a little tractor, but the loader is a little weak and parts can be hard to get.
i thought it looked N series like! i wonder if the 1800 is is similar priced as the N. not sure how much bigger either is to a compact tractor. as in big enough to be a class two or three 3 point.
Were the post set in just the material extracted from the holes and now concrete? Are those HDepot, Lowe's, ......... what posts did you use? Thank you.
The posts are pressure treated. They are just set in the natural soil, that’s it. My soil is sandy. I got them at Tractor Supply. I believe they are classed as 5-6 inch diameter. They are 8ft long. I spaced them closer than you need to, but it supports the fence better and makes it easier to keep it from sagging.
Any chance you remember the bolts you used to attach the shroud to the gear box that holds the legs on it? Ours came with none. I haven’t figured out how to attach the shroud that holds the legs.
There are two bolts on the underside that attach it to the bottom of the gearbox. They are metric bolts stamped 8.8 on the head. I would have to take it apart to determine exactly what size they are, as I do not recall.
Do you think if you moved the tractor fwd and rev. during operation would help in keeping the hole plumb and not cut so crooked thus ovaling also? I'm sure that angle is hard to see from the seat? Other than that and the sway links you pointed out you did really well. I'm after one and hope I can run it as well as you did! Have a good day and thanks for pointing out just about every aspect that was a issue.
The out of shape hole is mostly from hitting rocks and the hitch bouncing around. Tight sway bars would mostly resolve that. A bigger hole that isn’t round is no big deal. Yes it’s hard to see if you’re starting plumb from the seat, but you do get an eye for it with practice. A second person to sight it would solve that completely. As for rocking the machine back and forth, i considered it, but it isn’t practical with a gear drive tractor like this. Clutching to shift stops the PTO. Plus the auger cuts at the tip, not the sides. You could put a lot of stress on the gearbox shaft if the side of the auger is pressed against the side of the hole in rocking back and forth. The auger is a long lever arm on the output shaft from the gearbox with respect to force and bending!
Exactly right. Set the auger down on point, then back the tractor up to make it straight. Also to make sure it is level from side to side, turn the tractor wheels the opposite direction while backing up. then after drilling down a foot or two, readjust the tractor, since the angle will change as the digger goes deeper into the ground.
Just lift the handle a bit, while starting the hole. No need to drive forth and back. Though, when auger stucks between stones, rocking the tractor forth and back helps with pulling it out.
It’s just the standard CountyLine auger. I don’t think they have options for different soil types at this price point. It has held up fine thus far. The auger tip and teeth are replaceable.
I'm using the same auger with JD 2025R on a *very* rocky soil. Smaller diameter augers perform better. I have 6", 9", and 12" augers. The 12" one is too violent to work with, and, because of the ripped stone, the resulting hole is like 18". The 9" auger works okay for me, and the resulting hole is closer to 12" in diameter. Hope that helps.
@@benkanobe7500 My Ford 1700 was originally purchased by my grandfather to replace a 9N. It is very comparable to those early Fords in power and capability, with the upgrades of diesel power, 12 speeds, 4wd and a decent factory loader.
Your verbal explanation is really good as is your vocabulary, it is even better when you narrate your own action as you did showing us how to stop the auger in the hole, raise and bring up the dirt, fling off, stop, lower, repeat. That will save many of us lots of time experimenting and maybe not even discovering how well that works. Thank you.
@@benkanobe7500 The method worked for me - with a hydro transmission things would be different, and with different soil things might be different too. The key is not to bury the auger! Go slow and clean out the hole as you go…
@@ProductiveRecreation This the 4th or 5th LP Post hole digger how to or example and I can tell you that your developed method works best and it would in clay as well.
Very informative video, I would recommend watching(just bought same post hole digger for my L2800)
I think on the bottom where you was talking about the turnbuckles. Maybe if you would reverse those pins holding the post hole digger to where those bars are to the inside of the digger it would take the slack out of the turnbuckles.
Thanks for the video. I just got a 1700!
Stick around. I make quite a few videos on/with the Ford 1700. 🚜
Excellent video. Really appreciate it.
How do you like your 1700 over the 9n? I have a 48" 8n and as fun as it is, seems like i need to upgrade to a bigger, newer unit at some point. I habe trouble keeping the front wheels down on our hillside pasture which sketches me out
I never drove the 9N. The 1700 came onto the farm brand new in 1982 a little before I was born, and the 9N got sold off because it was running finicky and needed an overhaul. However, knowing the specs on it, I like the 1700 a lot. I’ve made several videos about/with it. With 12 speeds I have a gear for everything. The 2 cylinder diesel is simple too, and good on fuel. I work on hills and the loader keeps the front end down. I’ve put a couple concrete blocks in the bucket before as insurance too. Without the loader, suitcase weights on the front would be a must. I also use 4wd often in the woods and on hills for more traction. Not an option on the 9N. When it comes to weight, the 1700 is lighter. Traction runs out before power if you are using the right gear for the job. Overall, the 1700 is a beast of a little tractor, but the loader is a little weak and parts can be hard to get.
i thought it looked N series like! i wonder if the 1800 is is similar priced as the N. not sure how much bigger either is to a compact tractor. as in big enough to be a class two or three 3 point.
Were the post set in just the material extracted from the holes and now concrete? Are those HDepot, Lowe's, ......... what posts did you use? Thank you.
The posts are pressure treated. They are just set in the natural soil, that’s it. My soil is sandy. I got them at Tractor Supply. I believe they are classed as 5-6 inch diameter. They are 8ft long. I spaced them closer than you need to, but it supports the fence better and makes it easier to keep it from sagging.
Any chance you remember the bolts you used to attach the shroud to the gear box that holds the legs on it? Ours came with none. I haven’t figured out how to attach the shroud that holds the legs.
There are two bolts on the underside that attach it to the bottom of the gearbox. They are metric bolts stamped 8.8 on the head. I would have to take it apart to determine exactly what size they are, as I do not recall.
@@ProductiveRecreationthat is all I need you are so helpful thank you.
Do you think if you moved the tractor fwd and rev. during operation would help in keeping the hole plumb and not cut so crooked thus ovaling also? I'm sure that angle is hard to see from the seat? Other than that and the sway links you pointed out you did really well. I'm after one and hope I can run it as well as you did! Have a good day and thanks for pointing out just about every aspect that was a issue.
The out of shape hole is mostly from hitting rocks and the hitch bouncing around. Tight sway bars would mostly resolve that. A bigger hole that isn’t round is no big deal. Yes it’s hard to see if you’re starting plumb from the seat, but you do get an eye for it with practice. A second person to sight it would solve that completely. As for rocking the machine back and forth, i considered it, but it isn’t practical with a gear drive tractor like this. Clutching to shift stops the PTO. Plus the auger cuts at the tip, not the sides. You could put a lot of stress on the gearbox shaft if the side of the auger is pressed against the side of the hole in rocking back and forth. The auger is a long lever arm on the output shaft from the gearbox with respect to force and bending!
Exactly right. Set the auger down on point, then back the tractor up to make it straight. Also to make sure it is level from side to side, turn the tractor wheels the opposite direction while backing up. then after drilling down a foot or two, readjust the tractor, since the angle will change as the digger goes deeper into the ground.
Just lift the handle a bit, while starting the hole. No need to drive forth and back. Though, when auger stucks between stones, rocking the tractor forth and back helps with pulling it out.
Wow rocks👍 I have a ton more where I am
Paxton sandy loam here - Strafford County, NH. I have a couple bedrock outcrops in the field…. Or really gigantic buried boulders…
I'm up by winnipasaukee too funny
is your auger made for rocky soils?
It’s just the standard CountyLine auger. I don’t think they have options for different soil types at this price point. It has held up fine thus far. The auger tip and teeth are replaceable.
I'm using the same auger with JD 2025R on a *very* rocky soil. Smaller diameter augers perform better. I have 6", 9", and 12" augers. The 12" one is too violent to work with, and, because of the ripped stone, the resulting hole is like 18". The 9" auger works okay for me, and the resulting hole is closer to 12" in diameter.
Hope that helps.
What HP is your PTO?
@@benkanobe7500 23.26hp per the Nebraska test.
@@ProductiveRecreation Thanks my old tractor (Ford Jubilee is was certified at 23 HP so should work like yours in same conditions)
@@benkanobe7500 My Ford 1700 was originally purchased by my grandfather to replace a 9N. It is very comparable to those early Fords in power and capability, with the upgrades of diesel power, 12 speeds, 4wd and a decent factory loader.
Will this work on kubota l3200
It will work on any category 1 three point hitch.