Great vid.......I just plowed for the first time with my bucket this year.......I have a lot to learn and thought it was a little rough on the asphalt.....your vid covered every question I had ....thanks
I would have welded thick wall tubing all the way across the loader plate. All the force is to the center of the plate. Your steel plate is a good idea but it's too short. I built a stump bucket similar to this mounting setup and it bent double 1/4 inch steel plates inward in the center, The loader plate is the weak link when using pushing type front attachments. Your pivot/ chain idea is spot on!
When my driveway was gravel I cut a slot lengthwise in a 3" steel pipe and slipped it over my cutting edge. Tacked it in place and plowed with it in float mode. It rode over the gravel and cleared the snow very well. I was able to plow some grassy areas when the ground froze. When I paved it I changed to a poly blade.
I would do all my large hole drilling, especially on small manageable parts on the drill press BEFORE welding them in. You can align everything before welding as well. A small band saw would be a big help too.
I’ve been thinking about that for a while now! A vertical mill would be really nice but a decent drill press is more likely in the budget. Thanks for watching
I really like the way that you created the swivel at the end of the loader arms so that the blade isn't adding unnecessary weight to pushing the plow down and digging in. I have a question, however. What do you do as to left/right swivel which is needed if not plowing super level ground. What I'm saying is if there is no left/right swivel allowance then if the right tires have to drive over a 2x4, limb or bump in the driveway then that side of the plow will rise up also. I remember that my pickup plow had built-in "slop" at the pivot pin so when I had the plow off the ground I could lift/push down either side of the plow by hand several inches. That meant that the plow cutting edge tip would never rise up and leave snow where I didn't want it. The trouble with the universal skid loader attachment is it leaves no slop for that to happen. Is there some way to create a "pivot" for that direction also? Just askin'.
Correction - I didn't mean : "so that the blade isn't adding unnecessary weight " what I meant to say was "so that the LOADER ARMS aren't adding unnecessary weight". Sorry for any confusion.
I’ve used this setup half a dozen times now and what I’ve found is that with the loader functions (lift and curl) you can set up the blade such that the slop you refer to isn’t necessary. I’m actually extremely pleased with the way this blade works now and I should have made this mod years ago. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Why don't they have both Float the Bucket tilt as well as Float the Lift? What's it take hydraulically to float the bucket tilt? Would solve a couple issues with other front loader attachments.
Nice work but seems redundant. I have a similar setup that I made. Kubota loaders have a float position so that you do not apply down pressure. And if you want tilt the blade to be perpendicular to the ground just roll it with your hand lever. ?
Great comment Tooliepig! I used the float feature on the loader for years and it worked well. I like this setup better because it’s not as hard on the machine, particularly the loader bushings. In float mode you have the weight of the blade, plow frame and most of the loader arm weight pushing downward into the ground. With this method, you only have the blade and plow frame, much less than half the weight as before. I modeled this off a truck plow setup where only the blade and plow frame pivot. It’s more of a weight issue for me. Great feedback and thanks for watching!
Great vid.......I just plowed for the first time with my bucket this year.......I have a lot to learn and thought it was a little rough on the asphalt.....your vid covered every question I had ....thanks
Great! Thanks for watching!
Brilliant idea.. far less expensive than buying a quick attach blade! I’m stealing this idea.
Steal it, it works great. Thanks for watching.
I would have welded thick wall tubing all the way across the loader plate. All the force is to the center of the plate. Your steel plate is a good idea but it's too short. I built a stump bucket similar to this mounting setup and it bent double 1/4 inch steel plates inward in the center, The loader plate is the weak link when using pushing type front attachments. Your pivot/ chain idea is spot on!
When my driveway was gravel I cut a slot lengthwise in a 3" steel pipe and slipped it over my cutting edge. Tacked it in place and plowed with it in float mode. It rode over the gravel and cleared the snow very well. I was able to plow some grassy areas when the ground froze. When I paved it I changed to a poly blade.
I would do all my large hole drilling, especially on small manageable parts on the drill press BEFORE welding them in. You can align everything before welding as well. A small band saw would be a big help too.
A drill press is definitely on my list of tools to get. Since I made this video I’ve been eyeing a few....
Thanks for watching, Daniel
China drill bits 😆😆Good video thanks
A big drill press or milling machine might make a nice addition for your shop to a handy guy like you.
I’ve been thinking about that for a while now! A vertical mill would be really nice but a decent drill press is more likely in the budget. Thanks for watching
new subscriber here thats a great job you did on your plow
Awesome! Thanks for the sub and for watching. Gonna check out your channel right now...
@@LivingOurAmericanDream thanks
I really like the way that you created the swivel at the end of the loader arms so that the blade isn't adding unnecessary weight to pushing the plow down and digging in. I have a question, however. What do you do as to left/right swivel which is needed if not plowing super level ground. What I'm saying is if there is no left/right swivel allowance then if the right tires have to drive over a 2x4, limb or bump in the driveway then that side of the plow will rise up also. I remember that my pickup plow had built-in "slop" at the pivot pin so when I had the plow off the ground I could lift/push down either side of the plow by hand several inches. That meant that the plow cutting edge tip would never rise up and leave snow where I didn't want it. The trouble with the universal skid loader attachment is it leaves no slop for that to happen. Is there some way to create a "pivot" for that direction also? Just askin'.
Correction - I didn't mean : "so that the blade isn't adding unnecessary weight " what I meant to say was "so that the LOADER ARMS aren't adding unnecessary weight". Sorry for any confusion.
I’ve used this setup half a dozen times now and what I’ve found is that with the loader functions (lift and curl) you can set up the blade such that the slop you refer to isn’t necessary. I’m actually extremely pleased with the way this blade works now and I should have made this mod years ago. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Why don't they have both Float the Bucket tilt as well as Float the Lift? What's it take hydraulically to float the bucket tilt? Would solve a couple issues with other front loader attachments.
Nice work but seems redundant. I have a similar setup that I made. Kubota loaders have a float position so that you do not apply down pressure. And if you want tilt the blade to be perpendicular to the ground just roll it with your hand lever. ?
Great comment Tooliepig! I used the float feature on the loader for years and it worked well. I like this setup better because it’s not as hard on the machine, particularly the loader bushings. In float mode you have the weight of the blade, plow frame and most of the loader arm weight pushing downward into the ground. With this method, you only have the blade and plow frame, much less than half the weight as before. I modeled this off a truck plow setup where only the blade and plow frame pivot. It’s more of a weight issue for me.
Great feedback and thanks for watching!
Watch the sparks with the jeep in there! I had some melt into the glass from the other side of my shop.
Was thinking of that very scenario when I was working on the blade! Thanks for watching
Me too, into my new tractor cab glass 30' away.
very nice
How wide is the plow blade?
Around 6’6”
Appears your cutting speed was too high
Not a good idea to be grinding with your vehicle in the shop............ been there ... lol