Hi Rocky, Thanks for your thoughtful response. To answer a few of your questions, the vehicle with the wobbly distributor cap is a '93 suburban 5.7 TBI. The wobble problem only developed after installing the new cap and rotor. It has a press on cap with a notch in it and it firmly snapped into place. My concern was that it was very difficult to remove the old one, so I had some concern that I yanked a little too much removing the old one. I don't think that I could have bent the distributor shaft. The cap is in fact secure and I never messed with the hold down for the timing adjustment. Long story short, it was running fine (albeit the wobble) and I drove it a mile or two. Lo and behold, no more wobble. That leads me to believe that there was some irregularity in the cap or rotor and a few spins around has "fixed" it. Obviously, still not great. I expect, like you suggested, that when I pull the cap I will find some scoring from wherever the interference used to be. Running fine now, but when I get around to pulling it I will update you just to enhance the common knowledge bank of information.
Greetings Krystian Leesowy....Thanks for your comment, and also, for paying close attention to what I had to say, and show you....When it comes to the smaller Distributor Cap with the Spring Loaded Carbon Button, it's my experience, that the Spring Loaded Carbon Button, and, the center portion of that Rotor that shows abnormal wear, due to the Worn-Out Carbon Buttons Short Length, will "Wear-Out" well before one has to worry about other parts/pieces that start to cause problems....(con't)
Hello JCJV...The codes that you have here can be verified as current codes, if you clear them out of the computer, and drive the car for a day or two...(make sure you write these current codes down first)...then re-scan you cars computer, and see what codes show up, that way they are "New, and Fresh"...(as some older codes can be intermittent)...The p0301 code looks like either a Fuel Injector type of problem, or Electrical, as in, Spark Plug Wires, Cap and Rotor, or supply Circuit...(con't)...
Greetings Gloria....Thanks kindly for your great comment...I hope that I was able to explain in easy enough terms and language, so that you and others would be able to gain some knowledge from what I have learned from fixing and tinkering with everything from cars to houses, and then some..lol..( I use to work with RaceHorses too)..The first time that I gave a Jockey a Leg-Up (boost), to help him up, I just about threw him over the other side of the Horse! (Light-Weight!)...Take care my Friend.
When the EGR valve doesn't shut when it's supposed to, Idle is rough, and No power, especially at faster/highway speeds....First thing I would suggest though, is, you need to see what Trouble Codes are stored in your cars Computer, if there are any....I'm pretty sure that you have the "OBD-2" (on board diagnostic "version" 2), which will require the use of an OBD-2 "Scan Tool"....North America's Governments made OBD-2 standard on vehicles around 1996 If I recall correctly....Get those Codes!
Hello, once again JCJV....I should also tell you the following....Whenever you "Reset" (clear codes out of the computer of your vehicle using the scan device), your cars computer has to "Re-Learn", and shall we say, "Re-Calibrate" itself again....All you have to do, is drive your vehicle around for a short while, and your cars computer does all of the re-setting all by itself....Make sure that you do after fixing something or changing parts, or you might have problems that are not really there!
Greetings once again Krystian Leesowy....As I was making a Cup-Ah-Joe (coffee), my Elephant Memory kicked in, and I remembered something that I should have mentioned when I replied to you, just a short time ago...What I remembered, is to also keep a Look-Out for any "Cracks" or Fissures in your Distributor Cap, as well as any "Moisture" (condensation) inside your Distributor Cap as well....As for the Cracks, this can cause Unwanted-Scattered-Sparks inside your distributor cap, causing...(con't)
Greetings Krystian Leesowy....Please, Note, the "Title" of this Video, is, just how to "Inspect" the Cap and Rotor, Not the Whole Distributor....I have already Posted "Many" Replies to your concerns and questions, as it pertains to the Distributor "Cap" and "Rotor", and, just Scroll "Down" (under this Reply), and you can read "All" Posts, in respect to your First "Comment" that you posted about a week ago....In those "Replies" I do mention about the "Gap" between the Rotor and Cap!....Take care
You are welcome, my Friend....I was thinking about those codes a bit more....Only Number 1 cylinder has the misfire, and because the other codes indicated "Lean" (oxygen sensors send lean voltage signal to computer when warmed up), has me thinking that it might be a faulty "Fuel Injector" or related wiring circuit....(4 cylinder has 4 Injectors, and 6 cylinder has 6 injectors), not sure if you have a 4 or 6 cylinder engine?...Now, if the Injector was injecting fuel into cylinder #1 and..(con't)
Greetings Oliver Renacia....It appears with the design of the distributor cap that you see in this particular video (of mine), that you have to replace the whole cap, as there doesn't seem to be any carbon buttons available when I did a parts search on this type of cap...You will find that when that carbon button wears out, it usually carves a circular hole in the rotor metal contact strip!...Replace the cap and rotor before the carbon button gets too short!...Take care, and have a good one
...even spark plug wires that are to close to one another, can cause what is called induction crossfire (when high voltage jumps from one spark plug lead to the other one that is too close to it)...Keep them at least 3/8 of an Inch apart, especially when they are running parallel to each other...If it's time/mileage for those Oxygen Sensors to be changed, then, get them replaced, as more then likely I think that's the reason for the slow response...(con't)...
the car runs pretty well the same at cold start maby even a bit worse, and i have noticed every once in awhile that when the car idles and not moving it sometimes feels like it skips a beet and then goes back to normal. I will clear the codes in my cars computer and try putting new parts into the car that you have mentioned and check the spark plug wires. and I will let you know how things turn out. thanks for all your help.
Hello JCJV....Almost everything pertaining to engine management parts, indeed need replacing at Mileage/Time intervals as suggested by the Manufacturer/Factory to keep performance/emissions at a satisfactory level....But, there are other parts that can be cleaned and re-installed with a fresh gasket, if required....I have had bad running vehicles, both carburetor and fuel injected, due to carbon coating, and even Chunks of carbon keeping the EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) stuck open!...(con't)
...some Manufacturers of After Market Distributor Caps that I have seen in the past, Engineered, and molded, a "Breather" like "Mini Tower" on top of the Distributor Cap, to facilitate or minimize the Problem-Thingie with the build-up of Condensation, or Moisture inside the Distributor Cap, well as I see it anyways....So, thanks to my "Elephant" like Memory, or perhaps, shall we say, Light Bulb came on in my Head, then, or should I say, there you have it!...lol....Take care, and have a good one
my car is a 98 mercury mystique that's not carbureted, we have only replaced the spark plugs so far, and thinking that we should replace maby the 02 sensors and egr valve. And when going uphill or accelerating fast when moving it will start to sputter and then when I floor it it will stop sputtering and run good. but when i put the pedal to the floor when stopped it will barely move it sputters so bad.
Thanks for the info. Does the rotor make the contact on the distributor cap or is it just spark jumping. And do I have to clean the contacts. This is why I posted my original comment that you spent the entire video on center spring loaded contact yet you didn't cover any other parts of the distributor.
...the spark plug was firing intermittently, then raw fuel would be going past the first oxygen sensor, and it would read "Rich"....(catalytic converter would probably burn up the rich mixture) before continuing on to the 2nd oxygen sensor, thus giving an ok reading (that's if you have the setup that has 1 oxygen sensor before the catalytic converter, and the other one after it) ....but, then again, the computer might be telling the injectors to lean out because of the rich mixture...(con't)...
Great video. I have a question. I'm trying to tune up as much things as I can that aren't to tough for me to handle. I have a 94 Jeep YJ 4cyl and having issues when accelerating from a dead stop in first gear. The whole jeep will shake/stutter for a quick second then everything works fine. I haven't changed or inspected my distributor cap since I've owned it so I was curious if you think this could be something that would cause a rough acceleration.' I just replaced the spark plugs, throttle position sensor and O2 sensor. Thanks in advance.
Greetings ncron714....Thanks for watching, and for Your question as well....There are a number of things, that can cause the Symptom that Your Jeep seems to be experiencing....Do You happen to be seeing any "Dashboard Lights", Lighting Up, like, a Warning Light or its equivalent?....Usually, the first thing to do, other then spend a lot of money, replacing parts, that may not be causing the problem, is to first, "Check for Trouble Codes", that might be Stored in Your Jeep's "On-Board Computer"....I haven't had a Jeep to work on, but, I think, in order to See Any Trouble Codes, that might be "Stored" inside Your Jeep Computer, there might be a certain Way, to use Your Jeep's Ignition Key, in the Ignition Switch, to then have, a Light "Flash" a (if I'm not mistaken) Series of "2" Digit Trouble Codes....With the Engine "OFF", Insert Your Ignition Key in the Ignition Switch, then, Turn the key, from, OFF, to the RUN (Not Start Position) using the Following Sequence....ON...OFF...ON...OFF...ON (and leave the Key in the Last ON Position, and wait a short while, and see if a Dashboard Light, Starts Flashing)....Then, Write Down, the Number of Flashes, that You see (if any), and, from what I recall, it should end with the Number 55. Once You get the/those Codes written down, remember to turn the Key Off, and remove the Key. Any Codes at all? Even if You don't get any trouble codes, You could try the following... ...I have found that, adding some Fuel Injector "Cleaner", to the Gas Tank, can make its way, through Your Fuel Injectors, and Clean the Deposits, that can Clog one or more Fuel Injectors, and can also, keep the Fuel Injectors, from Spraying a very Fine Mist or Vapor, that is very Important, for Your Engine's Power and Fuel Economy. Just follow the Instructions on the (small) Bottle. Be careful, as some of the Stuff, that I used a while ago, actually Cleaned all the Crud out of my Gas Tank as well, and, Totally Clogged my Fuel Filter! So, if You do use the Fuel Injector Cleaner, it would be a good idea, to Change Your "Fuel Filter", once that Tank of Gasoline, with the Fuel Injector Cleaner in it, is used up, and, New gasoline is added to Your Gas Tank, With-out the Fuel Injector Cleaner in it. Check out Wrangler Forum . Com (without the Spaces in-between), as, the People over there, know "Tons" about Your Jeep! Also, check out Other Jeep "Forums" as well. Good Luck... ...Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings JCJV....If your vehicle is hesitating only while you continue to push on the gas pedal, and you have a carburetor on your engine, it sounds to me that your accelerator pump in your carburetor is not giving a full squirt of gasoline into your carburetors throttle bore/bores.....When you said floor it, did it at first start to hesitate, and then go?.....There are lots of things that can cause your problem....Fuel Pump perhaps?....Have you had a Tune-Up recently?....What car do you have?
my car jerks when accelerating and going up hill but when I floor it it runs fine. would you think it could be the distributor cap, or what would you think it could be.
Greetings...will0i0am62............Thanks for the nice comment, and thanks, for watching too...........The "secondary" (high voltage side), of an engine's ignition system, has to be kept in very good condition, other-wise, it'll probably, just be a matter of time, until the engine itself, will probably start out by, misfiring some, not idling so smooth anymore, and, if really bad, the engine might not even want to start, possibly (can also, sometimes happen, if there's moisture, inside of the distributor cap)..........There's quite a bit of, high voltage "arcing" (sparking), happening, between the spinning rotor's metal tip, and, each of the metal terminals (inside of the cap), and over time, the metal gets eaten away, which will then, make an even Bigger gap, and make the ignition coil work harder then it did, when that gap was smaller, with a newer cap & rotor (same thing happens, if the spark plug's electrode gap, gets Bigger as well)............So, for a good running engine, that will give good performance and fuel economy, then, a person should keep, the...distributor cap & rotor...the spark plug wires...and...the spark plugs...from getting too worn, (or, worn out), too old, and maybe, corroded as well possibly, and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
after removing that black cap, there's a plastic surrounding the rotor. That plastic has a small crack on it. Will that contribute to fluctuations in performance, struggle to pick up or jerks when above 60kmh, for example? or any other? The car is a 1996 toyota sprinter & it idles properly. However, sometimes when at a stop light the rpm would go below 900 and stutter. Please advice urgently. Thanks you
+Rovin Nauth Greetings Rovin Nauth....Thanks for watching........................Anytime, an Ignition related Part, gets Damaged, or Worn too much, then, that will usually Increase the chance, of having some Problems showing up, especially so, on the Secondary, High Voltage side of the Ignition's System's Electrical Circuit.............................The Distributor Cap and Rotor, along with the Spark Plugs, and spark plug Wires, are subjected to many Thousands of Volts...!!!.........................Maybe, try a New, Good Quality Cap and Rotor first, and see if that helps.....................Have You been keeping up, with Your Toyota's "Maintenance"...???...as in, a "Tune-up", and Replacing Parts as needed, according to Toyota's Recommended Time/Mileage/Kilometer-age Interval...???........................If You don't already have a (Maintenance) Manual or Book, for Your Toyota Sprinter, try to get one, as they are almost, worth their weight in Gold...!!!...(so to speak)........................Have Your Vehicle's Computer "Scanned" for Trouble Codes, and also, have Your Vehicle's "Fuel Pressure"..."Checked/Verified" as well...................................If Your Engine has a Rubber-like "Timing Belt" on it, make sure, that a "New One", get Installed, at Toyota's Recommended, Mileage/Kilometer-age (and maybe, Time as well...???) Interval, cuz, if it goes "Snap" (aka, Breaks), then some very Expensive Engine Damage, could very well happen...!!!...and, I hope not............................So then, have those things done, that I mentioned above, and, if You like, You can let me know, what You find out, thanks, and Good Luck.............Till next time.............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
there was a bit of white dust on the tip of the coils inside the distributor, can that be the cause of my misfires and inability to start? the car cranks and it wants to start but it misfires and backfires
Greetings...That Don't get the bitches.............Thanks for watching............Well, generically speaking, no amount of Corrosion, Dirt-like Stuff, or, even any Moisture (usually being, water condensation), that is showing-up, on the Distributor, in the general area, of the Inside, of the of the distributor Cap, is, as far as I see it, is really not very good at all, cuz of, all of that Very High Voltage, usually trying, to get to, an (electrical) Ground Source, the easiest, and fastest way, that it's able to..............If that, so called White Dust, is causing, something like, the Low Voltage wiring Connections, to, not be so good, then yes, that, in itself, could very well cause a problem..............As far as a vehicle's Ignition System is concerned, the ignition system's Parts/Components, have to be in really good shape, and also be, as Clean, and, as Moisture Free as possible, or maybe, the result might be, an (ignition related) Misfire, or, as bad as, an Engine, that will Not Start at all...............If You can let me know, what...???... Your Vehicle's...Year...Make...Model...Engine Size, and what its configuration is, as in, inline, V-6, V-8, etc., and the number of cylinders, that it has, then, once I actually know, what You have there, I will hopefully, be able to, do what I can, to help You out, and........till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
is there a way to perform any test using an equipment such a multimeter, or any other to certainly determine that distributor cap is bad??, I have a 00 Nissan xterra, and I remove distributor cap and saw a lot of metal pieces on the inside bottom, and red dust on the distributor cap, my engine crank but doesn't start, I took my distributor to a place where check the coil and they told me that is ok.
+carlos alfredo lopez saldini ....Greetings carlos alfredo lopez saldini....Thanks for watching...................You could, Ohm/Resistance Test, the distributor cap's, Carbon Button/Resistor, but, probably won't make much of a difference, considering, Your distributor Cap's condition, as I'm imagining it......Metal Pieces...???....That "Not Wanted", Red Dust, is the biggest clue...........A New distributor Cap and Rotor is probably needed...........Try to get a distributor Cap and Rotor, that have "Brass Terminals" on them (better than Aluminum terminals), and, if You can Buy them as a Set or Kit (Cap and Rotor in the same Package), that might save You some Money as well..................The spark plug "Wires", have to be in very Good Condition "Inside".............If Your Xterra Engine, needs New Spark Plugs, try to get the Spark Plugs, that Nissan Recommends, for Your Exact Engine, and make sure, that, the spark plug "Gap" (between the spark plug's Electrodes) are what Nissan Specifies, for Your Exact Engine (less Problems that way).........................With the Engine "Not Running", Only Remove "One" spark plug "Wire" at a time, and put it back On, before doing the next Wire, or, You might have Trouble, putting those spark plug "Wires", back where they belong...!!!........................If the Terminals, Inside of the distributor Cap, are Worn too much, or the Carbon Button gets too Short, or it's Dusty/Dirty, or there is Moisture inside the Cap, then, that's just "Not Good"...!!!.....................Maybe, Replace the distributor Cap and Rotor, and if need be, the Spark Plugs as well, and see if that works, and "Carefully", Clean and remove, any Dust and stuff, that should not be there...................If You care to, just let me know, how You are makin' out, and, if need be, we can proceed from there, if You like, and..........till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
...so, now that you brought the lack of information that I provided about Inspecting the actual Parts, I will now inform you of what experience has taught me....The smaller Distributor Cap and Rotor need to be replaced when that "Tiny-Spring-Loaded-Carbon-Button" gets (wears) too short, as well as the Electrical-Arcing-Erosion that occurs at the "Tip" of the metal strip part of the Rotor, where it spins closest to the contacts inside the (smaller sized) distributor cap...(con't)
...also, does your car start and run ok when it is first started up for the day?...When your car is cold, the computer runs the system on what is called "Open Loop", meaning that the Oxygen Sensors (I think you have 2 of them) don't become part of the computers operating circuit until they get heated up to approx. 600 degrees farenheit...(You might have heated oxygen sensors, to speed things up)...Also, take care of all of those "Scheduled Maintenance" things...Let me know how you progress...
Greetings ashok banga....Thanks kindly, for Your very nice comment, my Friend....My goal, for most of the UA-cam Videos that I make, is to, try and explain things, using simple, and easy to understand language, along with, a reasonable "Close-Up" (aka, Zoom in with the Video Camera), so, People, from all over the World, will be able to (I hope), actually "See", and be able to "Understand", what it is, that I'm trying to Show them, as well as, trying to Explain to them, so (I hope), they will have a much better chance, at, being able to Learn about, and help them with, the Subject that I happen to be Discussing, in my UA-cam Videos, at any given time....Thanks for watching, and, for Your "Great" comment as well....Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
...your Ignition Coil work harder then it really should, because it takes more Voltage to Jump that Larger Gap, much like a larger gap in a spark plug would....Same thing happens when the spark plug Terminals Inside the Distributor Cap starts "Eroding", due to the same "High-Voltage-Electrical-Arc-Erosion!....Psssst, I have done what I said not to, to save some money, probably like many others have!...lol...So, keep an eye on those "Electrical-Erosion" Points that I have mentioned....Take care
Could bad cap or rotor cause engine vibration on a dead stop acceleration. Car is 99 civic ex 5speed new water pump, belts, thermostat, plugs, wires, clutch, radiator. It started doing this after new clutch installation. Before the new clutch the car would hesitate before takeoff on dead stop. Now with the new clutch engine shakes when I don't give it gave but when I give it gas it doesn't shake. Thanks!!
Joe Vang Greetings Joe Vang....Thanks for watching.............There can be, quite a few "Things", that can make Your Engine "Act", like You were Describing, in Your comment...................................There are, as I see it, a few "To Do's", to Reduce the chance, at having, a not so Happy & Well Running Engine..................................I like to use an "Old Saying", every now and again, and that "Saying" is..."The Chain is Only as Strong as the Weakest Link"...pretty much meaning, try to keep all of the Vehicle's "Parts and Pieces", in good working order, as in, Air & Fuel Filters...as well as...Change all of Your Vehicle's Fluids, when the Time or Mileage/Kilometer-age becomes due, as that in itself, sure helps...................................Well, if Your Honda "Runs really Good & Strong", while You really "Step on the Gas Pedal", then, to me, the Hesitation, could be caused, by something, along the lines of a "Vacuum Leak", and it could be caused by "Many Things"....................................Could be a Faulty "Vacuum" Rubber Hose/Metal Tubing, or maybe Disconnected somewhere, in Your Honda's Engine Compartment....................................Did You "Check" the "Gap" between the Spark Plug "Electrodes"...Before they were Installed in Your Engine...???..................................Make sure, that All of the Spark Plug "Wires/Leads, are kept away from one another, and, not near any Metal Components, in Your Honda's Engine Compartment, to help Prevent, what is known as...Ignition Related..."Cross-Fire"...that's where, sometimes, the High Voltage, from One Spark Plug Wire/Lead, gets "Transferred Into", One of the "Other", Wires/Leads, just sayin'........................................................"If" Your Honda does have a Distributor & Rotor, I think it would be a very Good Idea, to Install a "New" Distributor Cap & Rotor, and try to get a New Distributor Cap, that has "Brass"..."Terminals"...on/in it, as I find, the "Brass Equipped" Ones, much better then the "Aluminum Ones", and, not much more money as well.....................................There are basically "2"..."Things"...that should be done, on just about any, (Gasoline) "Fuel Injected Engine", and those "2-Things" are..........Have Your Honda's "On-Board Computer"..."Scanned"...for..."Trouble Codes", which requires a Hand Held "Scanner", and that will almost "Pin-Point" any Problems, without having to go on, what I like to call, a..."Wild-Goose-Chase"...lol...................................If You don't have a "Scanner", and don't care to Buy One, then, make a few Phone Calls, to some "Vehicle, Parts/Sales Establishments", and ask "Them", if "They" will..."Scan"...Your Honda's "Computer For Free"...???...as I've heard, that, some of "Them" actually "Do"...!!!............................Then, the Second "Thing", that should be Done, is to get Your Honda's..."Fuel Pressure, Checked/Verified"...................................."If"...???...Your Honda's..."Fuel Pressure"..."Is Not"..."Within Specifications"...for the most part, Your "Engine", just won't "Run, as Good as It's able to"........................So then, consider what I was tellin' You about, just above, and, if You care to, You can let me know, how it's goin'............................If You need any more help or advice, just let me know, in a comment/reply, under any of my UA-cam Videos..................................Good Luck...and...Till next time..............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
The air and fuel filter is new. Well thanks I will check for vacuum leaks and also change the cap and rotor. We'll see how that goes. It's strange because the motor run great and idles great. The only problem is the one I describe. Anyways thanks!!
Charlie Reyes Greetings Charlie Reyes....Thanks for watching this UA-cam Video of mine, and also, for Your comment/question as well..................................................There are quite a few "Things", that can cause a Car or Truck's Engine, to Not Start, or, Run/Operate/Perform Poorly as well, as far as, "Only" the "Ignition System" is concerned..................................................A Vehicles "Ignition System"..."Does Not"...like having Any "Moisture" (aka, Water, Condensation, etc.), any-where near its Component Parts...Especially..."Inside the Distributor Cap"...because, all of that "High Voltage", will usually become, shall we say..."Scattered"...and probably..."Won't"...make its way, From the "Tip" of the "Rotor", to the Intended Metal "Terminal"..."Inside" the "Distributor Cap", and with this particular Scenario, it has been known, to cause, a..."No Start" of the Engine, more-so, when the Weather Conditions are, Damp/Raining, well, You get the picture.............................................................Also, if there happens to be, even so much, as a..."Hairline Crack" (aka, a hardly visible crack) in the "Distributor Cap", as well as, if there happens to be any "Dust Like" Deposits, especially, something like a "Carbon Like" kind of Deposit, "Inside" the "Distributor Cap", which will probably cause, the "Scattered Spark" Syndrome, kinda like, what the "Not Wanted"...Moisture-Inside-the-Distributor-Cap...did, some-what...............................................................If the Car Starts, and then, Shuts Off, that in itself, can be caused by "Many" Things..................................................................Depending on How the Engine actually "Runs", right after Start-Up, (as in Rough/Miss-Firing, or Good and Smooth), and Before it Hypothetically "Shuts Off", will be, quite a good "Clue", that can be used to Determine (or Guess....lol), if it's not something that is "Fuel System" related, and is actually being caused by the "Ignition System", and depending on, just which "Ignition System", that we are Talkin' about, then, it might be, oh, something, as simple, as a "Not-So-Good"...Wiring or Electrical Ground "Connection", and sometimes, and rarely, something, like a worn-out Ignition Switch, can at times, become problematic............................................................If Your Distributor "Cap and Rotor" look like the ones in this Video of mine, I find, that they "Don't" Last all that Long, and, as I see it, is because of the "Weak" Design, more-so, pertaining to the Very Small "Carbon Button", which "Burns Out/Wears Away" quite quickly (mileage/kilometer/age wise), and, the "Rotor", is, shall we say..."Wimpy", and No-Where Near, being, that of, the, like I like to call them..."Industrial Strength"...Distributor Caps & Rotors, that used to be found, on something like, the good ole.."Points & Condenser" Distributors, and some of the Early "Electronic Distributors" as well............................................................................In order to have Your Engine...Run/Perform well, and to get much Better Gas Mileage/Kilometer-age, then, it's a "No-Brainer" (aka, a Must Do!...lol), to make sure, and "Keep" Your Engine, and its related "Ignition Parts"..."Fuel System Parts"..."Air & Fuel Filters"...and, Any, and All, "Maintenance" Related, as well as, a Complete "Tune Up", and have Everything "Adjusted/Set", to the Factory/Manufacturers, and if Applicable, the Added-On, After-Market Parts "Specifications"...!!!..........................................................No-Sir-ee-Bob, please, don't get me wrong, as I'm not Doin'...the...Point the Finger Blame game, but rather, trying to help You out, in giving You, the Best Chance, at having Your Car's Engine...Start...Run...Perform...as well as..."Save" You some Money at the Gas Pump, in terms of, getting, Much Better & More...Gas Mileage/Kilometer-age...!!!....................................................Good Luck....................................................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
SuperJeremi10 Greetings SuperJeremi10....A Hint of Fuel (Gasoline), is one thing, but, if You happen to be Smellin', a very Strong, Very Noticeable, Gasoline Smell, it's probably, a really good sign, that, Somethin's-Up, alright...!!!...............................There are a number of things, to be watching out for..................................Some of those potential, Gasoline Leaks, that, can sometimes be Detected, by Smell alone, can be, some of the following....................................A (Gasoline)..."Leaking"..."Fuel Pressure Regulator"...can, at times, depending on the (Intake's), Upper, Plenum Design, can cause, an Engine to Run, Way Too Rich (air/fuel ratio-wise), due to the Un-Wanted Gasoline, in Liquid Form, Leaking past, what I see, as a possibly "Ruptured Diaphragm", Inside the Fuel Pressure Regulator, and can get Inhaled by the Engine's Intake System, in the Form of Gasoline Vapor/Mist, but, You were sayin' that, Your Fuel Pressure "Test", wasn't showing any noticeable "Drop" in Fuel Pressure, for quite some time, so, just remember, what I was just sayin', for future use, if need be...............................Just about anything, (but, not including the Fuel Pressure Regulator, at this time), that goes Inside of Your Intake/Plenum, that has the Potential, to be Leaking Gasoline, when, shall we say..."It Springs a Leak"...especially, while under that, oh, about 60 PSI there-abouts, can be, anything, as simple as an "O-Ring" Seal, on, one or more, Fuel Injectors/Poppet Nozzles, or even something like, just about any Fuel (Gasoline) "Connection Points", that Require a "High Pressure, Fuel/Gasoline, Leak-Proof Seal/Connection......................"Leaking Fuel Injector or Poppet Nozzle", if so equipped, maybe...???.........................You were sayin' something about some "Corrosion"...???..................................I'm thinkin', if, any of that, so called "Corrosion", happened to be found, in an Area, where there is "High, Fuel/Gasoline Pressure"...present, such as a Bore/Hole, or, any Fuel related Connection point, that has to be able to "Seal and Contain", that, rather High Fuel Pressure, and is not able to, and, might just start "Leaking", then, that, can be a "Clue", that You can keep in mind...................................If Your Fuel Pressure doesn't Drop, for quite some time, I really can't see the problem being the Fuel Supply/High Fuel Pressure Side, being Your Problem..............................Sometimes, even "New Parts", can be "Faulty" from the get-go, so, don't completely Rule-Out any New Parts, just because They happen to be New, as I've found in the past, and rarely, does it ever happen, as well...............................Did You Notice any "Carbon Build-Up", on things, like Your "Throttle Body's...Throttle Valve/Butterfly" and the Bore/Hole, that the Valve/Butterfly operates in, and also, the "Idle Air Control Valve's...Pintle/Plunger Head"...and the Air Passageway, that it gets installed in as well...???.......................................I've used a Product called "Sea Foam", to "Clean & Dissolve", the Carbon Deposits, that I found, in the Area, near the Throttle Valve/Butterfly, that is inside the Throttle Body, as, what lots of Folks are sayin', that, those Carbon Deposits, can cause, Engine Running Problems, at Low RPM's, at times.........................................Air Filter New and Very Clean...???...hey, if it can't breathe fresh air, then, Gasoline, it will be...!!!...lol....................................So..."No Computer Trouble Codes What-So-Ever"...???........Wowsers...!!!...I would be thinkin', that, there might be some "Miss-Fire Codes"...or...some..."Lay-Zee Oxygen Sensor Codes"...showin' on Your "Scan Tool", when You Plugged it into Your Tahoe's On-Board Computer...!!!..................When You last had Your Scan Tool, hooked up to Your Tahoe, Did You "Clear Out and Reset Your Tahoe's Computer"...with the Scan Tool...???................................If You didn't, try that, and see, if "Any New Codes get Stored"...or, the MIL Light comes on, on Your dashboard"..."After You Drive Your Tahoe, for a Few Days.......................................One last thing...perhaps, find Someone, or a Qualified, Automotive Repair Establishment", and see if They happen to have a High Quality "Scan Tool/Analyzer", that will be able to "Read", the "Inner Depths', of Your Tahoe's, On-Board Computer, and, for starters, see if You can Retrieve, both, the..."Short Term, and Long Term, Fuel Trims"...as that should provide some very Valuable Information, to see, wether or not, Your Fuel Injectors, are Administering the Correct amount of Fuel, for the Engine's Needs, at any given RPM's and Load Conditions as well, but, to save some Money, perhaps, First, check out Your EGR Valve/System/Passageways, for those Carbon Chunks, or just plain Carbon Dust, as the case may be, and if need be, Buy and Install, one of those Special...EGR Valve..."Anti-Carbon-Chunks"..."Screen Type of Gasket"...and, move on from there...............................Best of Luck, my Friend, and..................Till next time...........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
well what it seems to be doing is it seems to sputter a little under power and acceleration tried new cap n rotor no effect it likes to spit liquid out the tail pip even after a long50 mile trip I haven't checked the egr system but everything at the tbi seems clean I put seafom in the fuel at half a tank I put the whole thing in no change in running air filter is new after I had a tune up done to it 8,000 miles ago I had a smog test done it passed with a high score indicating it was healthy the computer was reset 700 miles before testing no codes ae present n the computer at all no engine light the light comes on before cranking with the others like the security oil abs etc indicating that they are working she fires right up on first crank even before priming it feels as if it has a small misfire but to small for the computer to detect as it seems within range the exhaust is begging to small as if its a bit rich the plugs not have carbon build up at all or signs of abnormal wear I would take it to a shop but I really cant afford to take it and ialso cant have it in the shop for days or hours on end for testing as Monday - Saturday it used for carpooling basically normally I have it on the road form around 3-8 then again at 10-12 I pick family up carpool kids errands as my car is the only one running atm the fuel pump on our other car has died and cant get it replaced just yet so I really cant have this one in the shop it has to stay running other wise we lose money.
...Try removing spark plug Number 1, and see how it looks....Perhaps look at the other (5 or 3)as the case may be, and, that should tell you a thing or two about how what's going on inside the cylinders....Sometimes to fix problems like yours and others, the repair might only be fixing a bad wire connection (like a ground wire maybe), or a connector that may have corroded....You may find that the new parts you put in, won't fix the problem, or, maybe they will....Let me know, and...Good Luck!
Nick Forrest Greetings Nick Forrest....Thanks for watching, and for Your comment/question as well......................................................Sorry to hear that Your...ooops, not Your's, but Your Wife's Bluebird is not running all that well...............................Let's see, if we can track down, just what the problem, or problems might be.......................................................The first couple of things that pop into my mind, as soon as I read, what the Bluebirds Symptoms were (that You indicated in Your comment), are that of, an Engine related..."Vacuum (air) Leak"...or, perhaps something, that is preventing, the much needed..."High Fuel (gasoline) Pressure"...in the Fuel System, that is "Needed", in order to have Your Engine's "Fuel Injectors", to have the ability, to supply the Engine, with enough "Injected Fuel" (gasoline), so the Engine will run smooth and have plenty of power as well........................................................There are usually "2" things that need to be done, in order to help avoid, having to go on, as I like to call it..."A Wild Goose Chase"...................................................The "Fuel Pressure", in the Fuel System, has to be with-in the Vehicle Manufacturers "Specifications", and, that should be verified with a "Fuel Pressure Gauge"............................................If You do it Yourself, be aware that there is some quite Dangerous Fuel Pressure, in the Fuel System, of a Fuel Injected Engine, and make sure, that You fully understand, how to "Safely" bleed off the Fuel Pressure, before disconnecting any fuel line fittings, or connections, and Always wear Safety Glasses, and have a fire extinguisher nearby...!!!..................................................The other thing, that should be done, is to find out, if there are any "Trouble Codes", being "Stored", in the Bluebird's "On-board Computer".........................................................I'm not sure, as to which "Type" of "Computer", that's installed in the Bluebird, as it might be that of, an "OBD-2" (On-Board Diagnostics, version 2) type, that requires a "Scan Tool" (kinda looks like, a slightly larger, hand held Calculator), that uses a cable/connector, to Connect to the Bluebird's "Diagnostic Port" (if it has one?), to "Extract" (aka, read) the "Trouble Codes" stored in the Bluebirds on-board Computer (if there happens to be any, that is)...or...the Bluebird's on-board Computer, might be, the Type, that only requires a "Screwdriver", in order to, Turn a "Screw", (just a partial turn), that is usually seen, on the "Outer Case", of Your Bluebirds on-board Computer................................................Make sure, that You fully understand, the Exact "Procedure", when-ever trying to "Extract" those Trouble Codes, from the Bluebird's on-board Computer, or, something might go "ZAP", and, at the very same time, "Expensive" as well...!!!................................................Check with some of the, I would say, "Larger", Vehicle Parts Sales establishments, in, or near Your Neighborhood, over the telephone, and ask them, if they would "Scan", or "See", what "Trouble Codes" (if any, that is), that might be "Stored" in the Bluebird's "On-Board Computer"..."For Free"...(as I've heard, that some Parts Places in the United States of America, actually Do this, for Free!)...................................................Also, ask them, if they can "Check" the Bluebird's "Fuel Pressure" as well, (might not be Free, but reasonably priced, I hope), but should be done, never-the-less...............................................So then, Once You find out, if there happens to be Any (or Not), "Trouble Codes"..."Stored", in the Bluebird's Computer, and have also "Verified", that the Bluebird's, "Fuel Pressure", "Is, or, "Is-Not", with-in "Specifications", as, that my Friend, is a Great Starting Point, and, if needed, You can always let me know, how You're Progressing, and, I'll do what I can, to help You out.........................................................Here are a few "Things", that You can "Visually Check", with the Bluebird on Level ground, Engine Cold and Not Running, Emergency/Parking Brake On, Ignition Key in Your Pocket or Purse, as the case may be....................................................In the Engine compartment, have a look, at all of the "Vacuum" (air), "Rubber Hoses", that usually connect devices together, as at times, they can actually become "Disconnected", making for that "Vacuum (air) Leak", that I was talkin' about earlier, and also, look for any "Cracks/Splits" in those Rubber Hoses, while You're at it, just in case...................................................Last but not least, I should also be askin' You...have You, or, who-ever, been keeping up, with "Regular Maintenance", on the Bluebird, You know, Air Filter, Fuel Filter/s, Ignition related parts and pieces, as is usually indicated, in the Bluebird's Owners Manual, at the Vehicle Manufacturers, recommended replacement intervals...???............................................Oh yeah, just by having, a somewhat Dirty, and plugged-up Fuel Filter, that alone, has the ability, to make the Bluebird...Behave...just like You were saying, believe it or not.............................................Also, make sure that You "Change/Replace" the Bluebird's Fuel Filter/s "Regularly", or, the Bluebird's, Electric "Fuel Pump", might Burn Out, which happens to be quite Expensive as well...!!!............................................And, again I say...that "High Fuel Pressure is Dangerous", and must be "Bled-Off" (Reduced to Zero Pressure)..."Safely"..."Before", Changing/Replacing, the "Fuel Filter"...!!!.......................................Always remember..."Safety comes First"...!!!...............................Good Luck.......................Till next time...Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
...now that the "Smaller-Cap-and-Rotor" (and in my opinion) not so well designed, problems have been addressed, I will now move on to the "Industrial-Strength", of the kind of Distributor Cap and Rotor that I most certainly will give a "Thumbs-Up" for, and that is the other larger Distributor Cap and Rotor (Tan colored Cap, and that Large Rotor that is seen in this video....I have Never, Ever, worn out a Carbon Button, or the Metal Contact Strip, where it contacts the carbon button...(con't)
Greetings Krystian Leesowy....Psssst...(shhhhhh, I have a Secret for You!)...lol...Because you were saying that I Focused mostly on the "Carbon-Button" on this particular "Cap & Rotor"-Video, I got to thinking, that I should perhaps make a "2nd"--->"Cap and Rotor"-Video, explaining what else to be looking out for....I have most of the stuff ready, but still have to make the Video, soon, I hope....I still don't have a "Whole-Distributor" to show Folks yet...."Stay-Tuned"....Take care my Friend
Any idea why this newly installed cap and rotor are wobbling? without the motor running everything feels secure. This is only after the new install. Did I eff things up yanking the old rotor off or do I have a bad part? ua-cam.com/video/m8y5XwltpN4/v-deo.html
Greetings...David James...........Thanks for watching, and...Wowsers...!!!...that's, the most impressive..."Wobbling"...Distributor, that's probably known to mankind, well, as far as I "see" it, that is (and I'm gonna nominate, Your Distributor, for a much deserved Award...lol)............Well, my first thought, was that, the Distributor's (spinning) Shaft, that the Rotor mounts on top of, is "Bent" quite badly............You just "Replaced"..."Only"...the..."Cap and Rotor"...???............Were they the "Exact/Correct" Parts, for Your "Exact" Vehicle and Engine...???..............Maybe, "Compare" the Old parts, with the New parts...any Differences at all...???............When installing the distributor Cap, did it "Fit, and Seat/touch down", on the distributor's Body, reasonably freely, without being too loose, or, too tight...???..............If the Rotor, is the Push on Type (as opposed to, the bolt on type), was it pushed Down, all the way...???..............Might be, that, the Rotor is making Contact with, the Inside of the distributor Cap, and if so, You should be able, to actually see, any Rubbing/Contact, that was going on, by having a Look, inside of the distributor Cap (the only Part, of the Rotor, that is supposed to make Contact with the distributor Cap, is the Center-Carbon-contact Button).............Here's some more food for thought.............Was that the Original Distributor, or was it a Replacement (new or used?) Distributor, that was shown in that UA-cam Video...???.............Here are a few things that can be done, and, is, as follows..............Is that, the "Correct" Distributor, for Your "Exact" Vehicle and Engine...???..............Having the Engine Cold and Not Running, grab the distributor Cap with Your Hand, and, try to move it "side to side", in many Directions, to see, whether or not, if there happens to be any Movement at all...???.............Then, if needed, mark the spark plug wires, near the distributor Cap, so that, they get reinstalled in their correct locations, well, unless You don't need to, cuz, You already know how to, to begin with...............Then, Remove the Distributor "Cap", and, grab the Rotor, and then, gently, pull up, and push down on it, and, there should be a bit of ,"Play/Clearance"...............If, there "is not", any, up and down, Play/Clearance", then, there is probably, some "Not Wanted Force", being placed on top of the Oil Pump (if applicable, that is), and, is "Not Good", for the Oil Pump, and, if there is Lots of "Force" involved, as a result of tightening the Distributor "Hold Down" Clamp/Bracket's, Bolt or Nut (if applicable), then, that, just might be, a possibility, that's causing that Wobbling Distributor (cap)............While You're at it, gently "Twist" (not up and down), the Rotor, back and forth, in a circular fashion, to feel, the amount of "Clearance", that's between the helical Gear, that's on the end of the distributor's shaft, and the helical Gear, that's on the Camshaft..............There should be, just a little bit of Clearance, when those two helical gears "Mesh" (that be, the clearance, that's between those two helical gears, when they are in contact, with one-another).............If there "is not", any, up and down "Play/Clearance", then I hope, that, the distributor's Shaft, is Not permanently "Bent"............If needed, there are "Spacers" (that look, kinda like, Flat Washers), that can be purchased, that go between, the Base (collar), of the distributor's Body, and, the surface, where that part of the distributor gets mounted into/onto, and, by choosing the Correct "Thickness" of Spacers (or, a stack of them), then, there should be a bit of up and down "Clearance"..."After"...the distributor's..."Hold Down Clamp/Bracket...Bolt" (or what-ever), is Tightened down, to, shall we say, Lock the Distributor, in its proper Base/Initial Timing location..............Perhaps..."Remove" the Distributor (but first, make sure, that, You know how to "Reinstall it Correctly"...!!!), and give the gear end of it, a Spin, and, move the shaft, up and down, as well as, from side to side, to feel if it's too tight, or maybe, too loose...???.............What year of Vehicle, and, what Engine...???...cuz, the more I know, from the get-go, then, the more, that, I will have to go on...thanks............If You like, You can let me know, if You found the problem, or, if You didn't............Good luck, and......till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...SpyderRios....Thanks for watching....................Well, if the Distributor Cap looks to be, as good as, You were sayin' it appeared to be, then...Maybe...???...it can be put back into service (aka, Re-Used)...providing that, there wasn't a..."Hairline Crack"...or two (hard to see)...in the Distributor Cap, and/or, the presents, of any Carbon Dust (sometimes, it can be, Carbon Tracking), and, Hairline Cracks, and any unwanted Carbon, (inside) of the Distributor Cap, and even, any Moisture/condensation, can make for, some rather, Not Wanted, shall we say..."Spark Scatter"..perhaps, where-by, as the High Voltage leaves the Tip of the Rotor, it starts "Dancing Around", inside the Distributor Cap, usually Not making its way, to the Correct Terminal (inside of the Cap), and, it may or may not, end up, going to the Wrong Terminal...!!! (Not Good...!!!...Engine Damage...???)....................How does the "Rotor" (that spins around, inside of the distributor cap) Look...???.....................So then, have a really Close Look, for any Hairline Cracks...and...to find out, if any Carbon, is hiding, inside of Your distributor cap, just get a piece of (dry) white paper (disposable) Towel, and drag it around, the inside of Your Distributor Cap, to see if any "Carbon" gets stuck-to, that Paper Towel (???)........Also, the (carbon resistor type), of spark plug "Wires"...usually..."Wear-out"...(internally/inside)...so Don't be Fooled, by, how Good, they appear to Look, from the "Outside/Exterior" of them, and...........till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
i need help my 99 tahoe has been sputtering at low speeds and has a hesitation the rpm fluctuates at idol no check engine light has had a fresh tune up new injectors when i press hard on the gas it will run fine when the when i slowly accelerate it will sputter if the ac kicks in our out at idol the rpm jumps way down to 400 if i turn the turn signal on same thing condition happens weather its wet cold hot weather the engine is cold or hot it also has had the iac change no change in operation the maf has been changed too the ignition system is also recent and the intake manifold and injectors are also recent the whole intake manifold was rebuilt cause of corrosion and bad injectors.
SuperJeremi10 Greetings SuperJeremi10....Thanks for watching, and for Your comment/questions, about the issues, that You are having, with that 1999 Tahoe of Yours.................................There are "2-Things", that really should be done, before, going on, and, as I like to say..."A Wild Goose Chase"...!!!...lol...pretty much meaning, by doing the following "2-Things" at the very Start, it could very well save, some Time and Money, in respect to, Wasting Time, and, Replacing some "Parts and Pieces", that were probably "Working Just Great", and, "Did Not" need to be "Replaced"...at all..........................Those "2 Things" are..."Scan the On-Board Computer"...in Your Tahoe, for..."Trouble Codes"...with a..."Scan Tool" (looks kinda like, a slightly Larger, hand held Calculator), that should tell You, wether or not, Your Tahoe's..."On-Board Computer"...has any..."Trouble Codes"..."Stored in its Memory"...or not...................................................The "Second Thing" to do, is to, have Your Tahoe's..."Fuel Pressure"..."Checked/Verified"...to make sure that, the..."Fuel (Gasoline) Pressure"...is..."With-in"...the..."Factory/Manufacturer's..."Fuel Pressure"..."Specifications"...and...be..."Very Careful"...when-ever working on the..."Fuel System"...as, the..."Fuel Pressure"...is in, about the 60 PSI (Pounds per Square Inch) Range...!!!...and, that "High, Dangerous, Fuel Pressure, Stays there for Days/Weeks, and maybe More", with-out the Engine Running at all...!!!...and, should be "Safely, Bled Off/Reduced, to Zero PSI"..."Before Disconnecting Any Fuel Line Components or Fittings"...!!!....and..."Always Wear Eye Protection"...and have a..."Fire Extinguisher Near-By" (just in case, and, I hope not)............................There are, perhaps, some of the Larger "Automotive Parts Sales Establishments", that will "Scan" Your Tahoe's "On-Board Computer"...for "FREE"...just ask them, and, see (actually hear..lol), what "They" have to say...good luck..........................................Here are a few "Things" to be aware of.............................."Vacuum Leaks"...in/on the Engine (Gaskets?), as well as, Any Vacuum Hoses/Pipes, that are part of Your entire Tahoe, that, can be "Faulty", or even "Diss-Connected" at times, perhaps......................Are Your Spark Plugs, as good as New, and, are the Electrodes..."Gap-ed" (as in Gap, or space, between the 2 Electrodes), as per, the "Specified" Spark Plug "Gap", for Your "Exact Engine"...???.............................Have a look at the "Deposits", that might be on, All 8 Spark Plugs, after a few Hundred Miles/Kilometers, as those Spark Plug "Deposits", are a Very Good "Clue", and, most of the Time, they have a pretty good "Story" to tell, about..."What's Go-In On, Inside Your Engine's Combustion Chambers"...............................It's probably a good idea, to just..."Remove and Replace"..."One Spark Plug at a Time"...so that "Any", of those..."8 Spark Plug Leads/Wires"..."Don't Get Connected to the Wrong Spark Plug"...!!!.......................................In the Past, I had a few Spark Plug "Leads/Wires" go "Bad" on me, and, while looking at the "Outside of Them", well, "They" looked just great, but, there was some "Faulty/Bad Connections"..."Inside" of, some of Their "Ends", where the (spark plug) "Leads/Wires", actually "Electrically Arced/Disintegrated"...between the (spark plug) Lead/Wires..."Internal, High Voltage Conductor"...and, the..."Metal End Terminal"...and one time, it was..."So Bad"...that, that particular Vehicle (at the time)..."Barely Made it Home"...!!!...Yikes"...!!!...lol.........................So, that's about it, for now..................................If You care to, You can let me know, how things are workin' out for Ya, and, if need be, just let me know, about Your Tahoe's Running issues, and, I'll do what I can, to help You out..................Good Luck, and.................Till next time..............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
well the fuel cant be it because the engine is running rich at all times you can smell it i got a cheap tester and pressure is at 66-62 before cranking i waited 10 minutes it held pressure it cant be timing as it ran just fine before hand and timing hasn't been touched there are no trouble codes stored in the computer when i pull the plugs they look normal just normal wear plugs wires and cap n rotor where all done 6 months ago i may check the cap again as its pron to failure in this model. when i bought all the replacement parts i bought only ac delco with life time warranty and i put platinum plugs in it which was recommended by the manufacture.
SuperJeremi10 Greetings SuperJeremi10....It's good to know, that Your Tahoe's Fuel Pressure checks out, and, how You were sayin', that, Your Tahoe's On-Board Computer, had No Trouble Codes, Stored in its Memory, as, that's basically tellin' me, that, the, shall we say "Things" (as in Component Parts), should be Functioning alright...............................The First thing that comes to mind (mine, that is), is, that, sometimes, that Troublesome..."EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) Valve"...probably being, the "Electrical-Linear Type" (has a Wiring Connecter/Harness, that Plugs into the end of it), as opposed to, the good ole "Vacuum Type" (that only has, usually, one rubber vacuum hose, plugged onto it)..............................I had a Chevy V-6 Engine, with, what looks like, the very same "EGR-Valve", that, I think, might just be, almost, if not, the very..."Same EGR-Valve...that's on Your Tahoe's Engine...........What happened to the Chevy, V-6 Engine, was, It "Would Not Idle" so well, and kinda Ran like Crap, somewhat, at first, then, after, some more time, and mileage/Kilometer-age as well, that Chevy V-6 Engine, Lost, Lots of Power (as in "Gutless"...lol), while just tryin' to maintain, the Minimum, Freeway/Highway Speeds, and I had to Push/Press the Gas Pedal Down "Way Too Much", just to try, and go, only that fast...!!!.....................................What it turned out to be, was..."Carbon Chunks"...some of them, being about the size, of an "Un-Ground Pepper Corn" (about 1/8 Inch in Diameter, there-abouts), and, the Carbon Chunks/Balls, would get "Stuck", between the EGR Valve's "Pintle" (aka, plunger tip), and the "Orifice" (hole/passageway), that it was supposed to "Seal Closed", and prevent "Recirculating Exhaust Gas From Flowing"..."When that Exhaust Gas, Should Not Be Flowing"...!!!...and, it, kinda Acts, just like, a "Major, Engine, Vacuum Leak"...probably would...!!!....................................There is a "Professional" way, that these, Un-Wanted Carbon "Chunks", and smaller amounts of Carbon Build-Up (sometimes found in high mileage/kilometer-age Engines, that have this, dumb habit), probably, get Removed/Cleaned-Up, and I recall the "Procedure'...(Machine's Name perhaps?)...being called (I think?), a..."Motor-Vac"...where, as I've heard, some time ago, this Machine/Device, might be Circulating some type of Cleaning Chemical (or, what-ever-it-just-might-be), through the Engine's..."EGR Passage-Ways"...to (Dissolve?), and get rid of, all of that/those, "Nasty, and Un-Wanted, Carbon & Carbon Chunks, that may have Accumulated in those very EGR "Passageways"..................................I almost had a GMC Dealer, do the "Motor-Vac" Procedure"...but..."They Didn't have One"...!!!...lol...so, starting from that point in time, I just Removed that EGR Valve, and, Fished around, inside those EGR Passageways, and, Removed, what-ever, that was Hidin' in there, with some, easily bendable..."Hay-Wire" (Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...Hay-Wire, was Used, Way-Before..."Duct-Tape"..was Invented...!!!...lol)............................I also made up, a Special "Screen Type of Gasket", that gets Installed between the EGR Valve, and the Mounting Surface, that it Bolts to.............................I made up "2 Gaskets", using the Old EGR Valve Gasket, as a "Template", and, I also cut, a Piece of "Stainless Steel" Screen (the Screen/Mesh, has about, the same size Grid/openings, much like a Screen, house door does), the same Shape as the Old EGR Gasket, but, With-Out the Hole in the Middle, and I placed a small Bead, of, some of that, High Temperature Silicone/in a Tube (to Prevent a Vacuum Leak), on the Outer-Most part, just inside, of the Perimeter, on the 2 faces, of those 2 facing EGR Gaskets, that I made, and Sandwiched, that, Stainless Steel Screen, between those 2 EGR Gaskets, that I made, and, that..."Custom-Anti-Carbon-Chunk-Stoppin'-Screen-Type-of-EGR-Valve-Gasket"...that I made..."Stopped All of Those, Un-Welcomed, Carbon Chunks"..."From Coming Through", ever again...!!!...lol...........................Then, as luck would have it, I couldn't even apply for a "Patent", for my "Anti-Carbon-Chunk-Stoppin'-EGR-Valve-Screen-Type-of -Gasket"...cuz...You and I, can actually..."Go Out and Buy One"...!!!...lol...as I later found out...oh well..........................Another Thing, that I'm thinkin' about, although, You were sayin', No Trouble Codes at all, is, Your Tahoe's..."Engine Coolant, Temperature Sensor"...and/or, its "Electrical Circuit", as well perhaps?..............................This "Coolant Sensor" (not the coolant sensor, for Your dashboard temperature gauge, or idiot light, as the case may be), is responsible for, Telling the On-Board Computer, when, the Temperature (for example...from, when, the Engine is Cold Started, and the Coolant is Cold), and, the Engine, and Computer as well, will be in, what's referred to as "Open Loop" (Operating Mode), and when the Coolant, oh, let's say, reaches about "140 Degrees Fahrenheit" as a ball park figure, then, the Computer should go into, what is referred to as "Closed Loop" (Operating Mode), but only while going easy on the Gas Pedal, for the most part).............................If Your Computer, stays in "Open Loop", while the Engine is up to operating temperature, and while go-in easy on the gas pedal, it will, as I see it "Run Way Too Rich, Air/Fuel Ratio-wise"...................................The Computer, will only Listen, to what the Oxygen Sensors, have to say (Output), Only when the Computer is in "Closed Loop" Operating Mode, and, in order to have the Engine, Run as Lean, Air/Fuel Ratio-wise, while just Cruzin' along, it has to have, the Information, that's being sent, from those Oxygen Sensors, or, it just ain't gonna happen...and, that's One Way, that a Fuel Injected Gasoline Engine, will Run Way Too Rich (Air/Fuel Ratio-wise).....................................Now then, about that, shall we say, "Re-Designed-Odd-Ball-Lookin'-Distributor-Cap-of-Yours"...lol................................To me, it looks like, it's Made that Way, so, all of the Spark Plug Leads/Wires, Would-Not be Crossing, all over Themselves, like the older/old school ones did, and, I believe that, each set of 4 Spark Plug Leads/Wires, on a V-8 Engine, would, shall we say..."Stay on Their Own Side of the Engine"...!!!...lol..................................I did hear, a while ago, how some High Performance (Engine) guys, and maybe Gals too, didn't like the New/Re-Designed Distributor Caps, all that much, as they were sayin', about, some of the not-so-wanted Issues, that they were havin'...just sayin' now...............As I see it "Ignition Components" (parts & pieces), can..."Never Be Too Good"...especially, when, Spark Plug "Gaps", get to be .045" (Four-tee Five Thousandths of an Inch) and LARGER...and the..."Much Higher, Secondary Voltage"...that has to Travel, Through the Vehicle's..."Secondary, High Voltage, Ignition System Circuit"...to..."Jump, that, Much LARGER, Spark Plug GAP...!!!...Yikes"...!!!...lol................If, and maybe when, You do decide to Replace Your "Distributor Cap & Rotor", try to get the Ones, with "Brass Terminals" on them, as, the Performance Folks, as well as myself, find them, to be about the Best, that can be had..............................Try to "Replace", as needed..."All of the Required Components/Parts"...as per the Factory/Manufacturers "Specified Time/Mileage/Kilometer-age Intervals"...to help, ward off, any, not needed Problems, due to lack of Maintenance, that really should be done, wether or not, the Vehicle Runs well or not, as...just like that ole Sayin', kinda says...and that sayin' is..."An Ounce of Prevention, is Worth, a Pound of Cure"...........................I'll answer Your Other Comment/Question soon...................Till Next time..............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
okay I just put a new cap and rotor plugs are good they are only8,000 miles old check them the are fine prayed water on the spark wires they are fine haven't checked the ignition module maybe it could be the culprit I have a vortex v8 5.7 in a 99 Tahoe it runs just as crappy cold as it does warm no warning lights it likes to sput and sputter hesitate for a bit but when I floor it it will get up and go there's no loss of power more like a hiccup or stumble then it resumes as normal when it does this in most cases it will shoot liquid out the tail pip the engine is very responsive though and t will easily from a dead stop get up to 70 timing has been checked and is correct im at a dead end I also got a 200 mile trip coming up id like to have it fixed before then so I don't break down it we did a tune up 8,000miles ago it was doing the same thing then only it got so bad it had a random misfire code we put new plugs in cap rotor wires she ran great nice and smooth 8,000 miles later almost every symptom is back except the random misfire code im afraid to open down to the spider injector cause then I have to buy a new gasket and if it is leaking I cant afford o replace it but some how I don't think that's the problem that injector is only 4 years old the whole intake manifold was replaced new sensors new egr new injector module new ignition new tbi new cover maintance has been done on this engine I have no idea why they did so much work to the intake manifold I think the injectors had leaked and they replaced everything to avoid having to open it back up or worry about it. I still have the old manifold with the old sensors. that Tahoe has a lot of power still just need to find why it sputters there is no smoke of any kind coming from the exhaust the more load its under sometimes it seems to smooth out and not run as rough but will still sputter.
SuperJeremi10 Greetings SuperJeremi10....About "Ignition Timing"........I find, it's always, a very good idea, to..."Check/Verify"...the..."Base Ignition Timing"...on an Any Fuel Injected Engine, when-ever an..."Ignition Related Part"...gets..."Replaced, with a New Part"...for the very reason, that, there are, what is known, as..."Manufacturing Tolerances"...pretty much meaning, that, there are, for the most part..."Small Variations"...between, any of the Parts, that..."Interchange"...with, one-another, and, these..."Sizes/Angles/etc."...might possibly, at times, make for, a..."Base, Ignition, Timing Setting"...that, can be "Out", a "Degree or More", perhaps...........................So, Always "Check/Verify", Your Engine's, "Base Ignition Timing", and, make sure, that, it's "Set", to the "Factory/Manufacturer's"..."Specifications"...to avoid, any potential Trouble....................There is another Possible "Thing", that might be causing, that, might be, "Ignition Related, Miss-Fire Problem", that Your Tahoe is having...........................It's known as..."Induction Cross-Fire"...where, it can be caused by, something as Simple, as..."Running/Routing, the Spark Plug Leads/Wires, "Parallel" (aka, side by side), and, Too Close, to each other", and, due to the High Voltage, that's Traveling Through those Leads/Wires, at times, that Very High Secondary Ignition Voltage, can actually..."Transfer"...from One Lead/Wire, into, the "Other" Lead/Wire, and, if, and when it does, the "Wrong" Spark Plug will "Fire", at the "Wrong" Time, and perhaps, the Spark Plug, that was supposed to get that "High Voltage Pulse"..."Does Not Receive It"...and..."Does Not Fire"...kinda like, shall we say, a..."Double Wham-ee"...lol...as in, One Spark Plug "Fires", when It "Shouldn't" be doing so, and the Spark Plug, that's supposed to be "Fire-ing"..."Does Not"...!!!...How You like..."Them Apples"...!!! (not to worry, as, it's...just...a figure of speech) lol.................Ever Notice, those, Spark Plug, Leads/Wires..."Separator Clips"... that are usually, made out of, what looks like Plastic, that are usually found, "Clipped" onto, the Spark Plug "Leads/Wires", on the Factory Installed..."Original"..."Leads/Wires"...at all...???...oh, and..."Guess Why"...??? (I think You get the picture)...and, I believe that "Plastic" is Used, as opposed to "Metal"...cuz...most Metals, happen to be..."Electrically Conductive"...!!!......................Another "Thing" to "Check", while You have Your Distributor Cap "Off", is to "Wiggle", the Distributor's "Rotor"..."Side to Side", in All Directions, to See, and maybe, Feel as well..."Any Excessive Side Play"...between the Distributor "Shaft", and the "Bearing/Bushing", that that Distributor "Shaft"..."Spins Inside Of"...as, if it has..."Way Too Much Running Clearance"...that, in itself, can make for some, rather..."Irregular/Not So Accurate"..."Ignition Timing"...oh, and also, quite Rarely, the, Distributor Drive "Gear", on the End of the Distributor Shaft, that Meshes with, the Camshaft Gear, might possibly, have some "Excessive Wear"...on the Gear's..."Teeth" (as in Tooth...lol), which can also, make for some, "Inaccurate", Ignition Timing as well.......................Try "Turning", the Distributor's "Rotor"...in..."Both Directions", by Hand"...and...there might be, a..."Small Amount of Movement"...but...if that "Movement", seems to be..."Way Too Much", then, that "Gear", I was just tellin' You about, could be considered, a "Suspect"..................................A "Clue", to me, if, any Timing Related, shall we say..."Near Failures", are about to, Rear Their Ugly Heads, is for me, to, "Pay Very Close Attention", to, if, and when-ever, the (Base, or, Initial..."Ignition Timing".."Changes", well, kinda "Mysteriously", and without "Reason".............Well, that's about my "2-Cents" worth for now, so, I'll see about responding to Your other comments.....................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
...note, when the metal Tip of that rotor starts to Wear, due to electrical erosion, don't be tempted to File or Sand the metal rotor Tip Clean!....Why you ask?...That's why!...lol...Nah, here's why, my Friend....When the Rotor is spinning around inside the Distributor Cap, there is actually no real Physical Contact between the two!....If one was to file or sand the rotors metal Tip, then that would "Increase" the Running Clearance or "Gap" between the Rotors Tip, making...(con't)
...now, on to the "Condensation", or build up of Moisture inside your Distributor Cap...If a Distributor Cap happens to contain any Condensation (happens when water vapor in the air gets cooled to the point where it condenses back into liquid form), that my Friend, will cause Sparks inside the distributor cap to put on a very Unwanted-High-Voltage-Spark-Show, or, in other words, Electricity Randomly Bouncing around inside the Distributor Cap, making the Engine sound Sick, or No-Start!...(con't)
...in my entire life!....Now then, there are other points that I should, and must address for all of Mankind...lol...On the Larger Rotor, keep an eye on the metal tip, where it spins, nearest the inside of the distributor caps Internal Aluminum or Brass Terminals (Uh-huh, the terminals that the spark plug wires get connected to on the top/outside of the distributor cap)....The Metal Tip will start to Erode, due to Electrical-High-Voltage-Arcing whenever the engine is running....(con't)
...Miss-Fires, and Uneven-Running, etc. ....I recall an Old-School Fix (but it's always better to Discard any Bad Distributor Caps and Questionable Components, but I'll tell you just for the fun of it....Some, used to clean the inside of the distributor cap, and "Dab, or Paint" the crack with some of that fancy stuff called "Nail Polish!"....Please, don't do this, especially if the "Better Half" catches you taking Her Nail Polish without Her Permission!...lol....(con't)
To help you even further, my Friend, I have a few Videos that will help you even more, on my UA-cam Channel....Just type...RockysRoadshow...into the UA-cam search bar....There, you will find some Videos on how to Read Spark Plugs (how well the fuel is burning in your engines cylinders), and more car stuff as well....Enjoy, and....Take care, and have a nice day.
OK, so I watch the whole video when you say later you will show how it all works and how to inspect it, yet the entire video you talk about the center spring loaded part and you never say anything about how to inspect the actual parts
***** Greetings Brian Busch....Thanks for watching, and, for Your comment/question as well...................................................While it could be possible, that, the "Distributor Cap, and/or Rotor", might be the "Culprit", that, is causing the..."Idle Smoothly"...&..."Miss-Fire under Acceleration", Scenario, that You had mentioned, there are, as I see it, quite a number of possibilities, that, are able to cause that very same "Problem/Symptom" that You indicated in Your comment.............................................................It might even be, something along the lines of, a "Fuel System" Problem, being, what is usually referred to, as a..."Lean Miss-Fire"...where-by, the actual..."Miss-Firing", has nothing to do with the "Ignition System's Performance", as, the "Spark" that is being Produced at the Spark Plug, is..."Good & Strong"...&..."Sparking" at the Correct Time, in relation to the Engines, Needs/Demands....................................................So then, this "Fuel Related"..."Miss-Firing"...is, for the most part, being caused, by, the "Air/Fuel-Ratio" being..."Too Lean"...in order to..."Support"..."Proper & Acceptable"...Combustion...with-in, each and every one, of the Engines Cylinders, at any given time............................................In the past, I've had a "Fuel Related"..."Lean Miss-Fire"...but...it was happening at..."Idle Speed"...and, it turned out to be, that, I..."Set"...the Carburetor's..."Idle Mixture Screws", a bit too..."Lean"...which in turn, actually caused my Chevy 350 Cubic Inch Engine to..."Lean Miss-Fire"...and, due to the "Lean Miss-Fire", and the..."Incomplete Combustion" that goes along with it, I can actually..."Confirm"...that..."Lean-Miss-Firing"..."Situation"...just by having a "Look-See" at my "Smog/Emission-Test-Results-Print-out", that I had handed to me, at, that there..."Smog/Emissions Testing Establishment"...!!!...(lol)..................................................Another thing that I've found, is that, a "Lean Air/Fuel Ratio" (fuel related) Problem, for me, will usually show up as a Vehicle that will start..."Surging", as in, the Vehicle will kinda, Jerk, or, Buck, back and forth, while just trying to "Maintain City Speed", on a Level Road, and keeping the Gas Pedal in a Fixed Position......................................................Now then, there is a Possibility, as I've known, for quite some time now, and, it could be another One, of Many Possibilities, and, what it happens to be, is...An "Ignition Coil"...can..."Malfunction"...while "Under Load", which is what happens when an Engine is Doin' the "Acceleration" Scenario.........................................The Above, are just a few things to be Thinkin' about, as it applies to the "Situation/Problem" that Your Engine is experiencing, but, in order to give Your Vehicle's Engine, the best chance at Running/Operating/Performing, the best that it's able to, is the following..........................................................Do a "Complete Tune-Up", and all of the Required "Maintenance Items", that Your Vehicle's Manufacturer Recommends, at the Required/Suggested Time, or, Mileage/Kilometer-age "Interval"........................................................"Lettuce" (intentional miss-spelling, to keep Your attention...lol), say for instance, that, Your..."Distributor Cap"...or the..."Rotor"...that Spins around, Inside the Distributor Cap..."Looks"..."Worn"...or..."Questionable" at all...then, just..."Re & Re" (Remove and Replace) "Both of Them", that way, all of that "High Voltage", that is "Zapping" Through the "Secondary Side" of the Ignition System, will have a much better chance, at making its way, from the Ignition Coil, and all the way to Your Engine's Spark Plugs.....................................................If You spend a few extra "Bucks" (or, what-ever Your Currency/Money happens to be), for a "Distributor Cap", that has..."Brass Terminals"...is, as I see it, a pretty good..."Improvement"...over that, of a Distributor Cap, that has "Aluminum Terminals" in/on it...........................................................Have Your Engine's "Ignition Timing "Checked" and "Set/Re-Set" if Needed...!!!....................................................Oh yeah, if and when You do happen to "Re & Re" Your "Distributor Cap", and, by doing the following, will make things go quite well, as opposed to, a "Nightmare" in the making...!!!.......................................................When-ever Removing and Replacing the Ignition System's "Wires/Leads" on, "Both" the "Distributor Cap", and the "Spark Plugs", try and "Only"..."Remove and Replace"..."Only"..."One"..."Wire/Lead" at a Time, or, if You happen to..."Remove"..."All" of the Ignition System's "Wires/Leads" at the "Same Time" (aka, All at Once), then, that there...."Nightmare"...will actually be You, having to "Figure Out"..."What-Wire/Lead Went Where"...???(Yikes!!!)...............................................Now it's Time for my, sometimes..."Over-Use"...of an "Old Saying", and that saying is, and when it's applied to just about any Part on Your Vehicle, and its Engine...is..."The Chain is Only as Strong as the Weakest Link"...!!!...................................................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
RockysRoadshow ......gulp.....gulp....gulp, ahhhh. Thanks for the reply!! Went through the entire ignition system......not it at all, the"culprit" is a weak (40psi vs.58 required) fuel pump. Gotta love a GMC van. Keep doing what you're doing....Great Job!!
***** Greetings Brian Busch....(using my best, and, not all that good..."L-Viss"...Voice Impersonation...I say)..."Thank You...Thank You Very Much".................................................."GMC" Van...???..................................................Does it happen to be a "Safari" Mini Van, equipped with a 4.3 Litre (262 Cubic Inch) V-6 Engine...???.........................................................Just to let You know, I do have a wee bit of experience, and many hours, Workin' on, both the..."Chevy Astro"...&...the "GMC Safari"...Mini Vans, that were equipped with the "OBD-1" (on board diagnostics, version 1), shall we say...Engine Management System...&...the "CMFI" (aka, Central Port Fuel Injection) System, that only has "1" Fuel Injector, and, 6 Fuel Tubes/Lines, connected to those there 6 Poppet Nozzles.............................................................If the Chevy Astro, or, the GMC Safari Mini Vans, are 1996 or Newer, and are equipped with the "OBD-2" (aka, on board diagnostics, version 2) System, and, although I haven't had one of those in Custody, to work on, I'm, pretty sure, that, I will at least, be able to provide some useful Information, on those Mini Vans as well................................................I read (pronounced Red..lol), some-where, that, if the Chevy or GMC V-6 Engine, is equipped, with a "Distributor Cap", that looks like, the One that You see in this particular UA-cam Video of mine, that, some Folks, are Saying, that, it's "Their" Experience, that, what works "Best" for Them, on this type of "V-6" Engine, is, when it comes time, to Replace the Worn-out, or Faulty "Distributor Cap", is, according to those previously mentioned Folks, is to use, a "Factory Original" Type of Distributor Cap..................................................I've had pretty good luck, using the "Standard" Brand's..."Premium"...Distributor Cap & Rotor...that has "Brass Terminals" on the Distributor Cap...but...keep a very close Eye, on that there "Carbon Button"...that's..."Hiding"...Inside that there Distributor Cap, as that...Super-Wimpy...Carbon Button...Wears away/down, quite quickly...Mileage/Kilometer-age-wise...!!!....................................................Now then, here are some "Things" to consider, as it applies to Your "GMC-what-ever-IT-happens-to-be"...???..................................................Make Sure, that, You "Change" Your "Fuel Filter" at least, once a Year (applies to a regularly driven vehicle), so that, it doesn't get so..."Plugged Up", and cause Your...Inside-the-Gas-Tank...Electric..."Fuel Pump"...to..."Burn-Out"...and Stop Working...!!!.........................................Quite some time ago, I put some Fuel Injection System "Cleaner" in my Gas Tank, and, it did such a good job, that, after a period of time, I figure that, that there Fuel System Cleaner...shall we say..."Super Cleaned"...all of the Crap/Sludge/etc., that was "Hiding Inside the Gas Tank"...and...as I see it..."Totally Clogged-Up" the "Fuel Filter"...and...the Fuel Pump, that was also Hiding Inside the Gas Tank..."Burned Itself Out, due to the "Totally Restricted"...Fuel Filter...!!!...................................................Then, it was "Tow Truck" Time, and, a very "Expensive Lesson" was Learned...never-the-less...!!!...................................................................Another thing that "You" can "Do", to "Prolong"...the..."Life"...of Your...Fuel Pump, is to, try to Remember, to "Keep" Your Gas Tank, at "Least"...1/4 (One Quarter or One Quarter of a Gas Tank)...Full, at "All Times"...!!!..................................................Why You ask...???.....................................................The..."Inside the Gas Tank Electric Fuel Pump"...will actually Run "Cooler", due to the Gasoline, that the Fuel Pump is "Immersed" (aka, surrounded by) in, where-as...as I see it...if the Gasoline "Level/Amount", in the Gas Tank, was allowed to, get to the point of being Close to Empty, and, the Ambient Temperature, where the vehicle was being driven was quite "Hot" (think in terms of Desert Heat), then, as I see it, that Very "Hard Working"...Little..."High Pressure"..."Fuel Pump"...would probably be getting, quite a bit "Hotter", in a "Near Empty" Gas Tank...as "Opposed" to....a Gas Tank, that was "Always" kept, at "Least"..."1/4-Full"...and, here I go again..."More" then "1/4-Full"...is even..."Better"...!!!................................................If You like, just let me know, what Your "Ride" (aka, Vehicle) happens to be, and, I'll do what I can, to help You out....................................................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
RockysRoadshow it's actually a 2000 GMC Savana 1500 5.0 Vortec 130k miles on it. This happened 15k miles ago..changed the cap, rotor, plugs, wires....fixed the no start issue. I left work, wouldn't get above 60..no overdrive, rounded a corner, wouldn't get above 40. Now it's a no start, except with starting fluid, still won't get above 40. Can showed P0308 & bad O2 sensor. Changed rotor, plugs, tps, battery, fuel filter. Tested cap, wires & coil...all good. Testing the fuel pressure again today with a better gauge (never buy a cheapo). Bogs bad under acceleration, idles smooth though. Will let you know what I find out. .....elvis reverse punch followed by a karate kick....
***** this is my work vehicle...makes me money....I keep up on the maintenance religiously (I'm a preventative maintenance technician).....synthetic oil changes, Lucas Oil products, Berrymans Chem-Tool, etc.
journeyquest1 Greetings journeyquest1....Thanks for watching, and for Your comment as well..........................................When it comes to, like You were sayin'..."New and Improved"...I would probably be placing, this particular..."Distributor Cap & Rotor"...on, the..."Top Ten List"...of what should be, as I see it..."Improved" (as, if and when, an Improved "One" is acquired, it will probably be "New")................................................The.."Size"...and..."Wimpy-ness"...Design, of this particular..."Distributor Cap & Rotor"..."Might"...have been..."Acceptable"...for the older..."Point & Condenser"...type of..."Distributor"...along with an Ignition Coil, that had a Ballast Resistor in its Ignition Circuit, that had Spark Plug "Gaps", of about..."Only .035" (thirty-five thousandths of an inch), that..."Did-Not"...need as much, Ignition Coil..."Secondary High Voltage"...as compared to, that of which, is put through this particular "One", that has to Supply, a..."Much Higher Secondary Voltage"...in order for the..."Spark"...to..."Jump the .045" (fourty-five thousandths of an inch) Spark Plug GAP"...that is part of this particular, shall we say..."High Energy Ignition"...System/Circuit...!!!..................................................All a Person has to do, is, have a look-see, at the good ole..."HEI" (High Energy Ignition) Distributor, that was usually found, beginning, oh, around 1975, that was Installed in most..."V-8 Engines", and, You'll notice, just..."How Large" (in Diameter & Height), that, that particular Distributor Cap (& Rotor)..."Actually Is"...!!!.................................................Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...as I see it (probably along with many Others, as well), is that, seeing as how, the..."Larger the Spark Plug Gap"..."Is"...the..."Higher"...the Ignition Coil's..."Secondary High Voltage"...has to be, in order to, shall we say..."Jump that Much Larger Spark Plug Gap".....................................................I have found that, just about any time, that the Spark Plugs..."Gaps"...get any..."Larger"..then .035" (thirty-five thousandths of an inch), then, the Parts and Pieces, that are part of the..."Secondary, High Voltage Side"...of the Vehicle's Ignition System, are subjected to, a Much Higher Rate of, shall I say...Higher Secondary Voltage..."BREAK-DOWN"................................................That's where I'm finding, especially on the Ignition System, that the Distributor Cap & Rotor, that is seen in this particular video of mine, is Included in, that, the Distributor Cap & Rotor, are basically a Joke, in as far as its Design and Wimpy-ness, for something, that's tryin' to be, a wanna-be..."High Energy Ignition System"...that's supposed to be able to with-stand, the..."Amount of, High Secondary Voltage" (that's coming out of the ignition coil's secondary side), that's needed, in order to make that..."Spark, Across, that Increased Spark Plug Gap"...!!!.................................................That..."small"...spring loaded Carbon Button, is way too..."small"..........................................The Rotor, that goes along with it, is something that I'd expect to find in a..."Dollar Store"...and..."Not"...something that an..."Automotive Engineer/Designer"...would be proud of, being responsible for......................................................About the only thing that I came across so far, as it applies to, a, shall we say..."Improved Distributor Cap" (like the One in this Video), happens to be, along the lines of..."Brass Terminals" (as opposed to just be-in' Aluminum), and probably...(keeping fingers crossed)..."Improved Material"...that, both, the..."Distributor Cap"...and the..."Rotor"...are made out of.......................................................About the..."Only Way"...as I see it, that this..."Lack-Luster"...wanna-be...High Energy..."Distributor Cap & Rotor"...will be able to..."Last, a reasonable amount of time"...would be, and I might just give it a try as well, would be to..."Reduce the Spark Plug Gaps"...from...".045" to .035"..."..........................................Even the..."Spark Plug Wires/Leads"...didn't do a very good job, at standing up to the "Secondary High Voltage"...that was required to..."Create a Spark"...between, the..."Spark Plug's .045" Gaps"..........................................Hmmmmm...if it wasn't for this Engine's Computer System...I would probably Install a..."Points & Condenser Distributor"...Ignition System in "It"...as, over quite a few years...that was..."Something that I could Depend On"...on a regular basis.................................................So then, there You have it, for the time being....................................................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Hi Rocky, Thanks for your thoughtful response. To answer a few of your questions, the vehicle with the wobbly distributor cap is a '93 suburban 5.7 TBI. The wobble problem only developed after installing the new cap and rotor. It has a press on cap with a notch in it and it firmly snapped into place. My concern was that it was very difficult to remove the old one, so I had some concern that I yanked a little too much removing the old one. I don't think that I could have bent the distributor shaft. The cap is in fact secure and I never messed with the hold down for the timing adjustment. Long story short, it was running fine (albeit the wobble) and I drove it a mile or two. Lo and behold, no more wobble. That leads me to believe that there was some irregularity in the cap or rotor and a few spins around has "fixed" it. Obviously, still not great. I expect, like you suggested, that when I pull the cap I will find some scoring from wherever the interference used to be. Running fine now, but when I get around to pulling it I will update you just to enhance the common knowledge bank of information.
Thanks for responding. Yes I saw your earlier comments. I meant to say, I wish you covered that in the video. The gap, the cleaning, etc, etc
Greetings Krystian Leesowy....Thanks for your comment, and also, for paying close attention to what I had to say, and show you....When it comes to the smaller Distributor Cap with the Spring Loaded Carbon Button, it's my experience, that the Spring Loaded Carbon Button, and, the center portion of that Rotor that shows abnormal wear, due to the Worn-Out Carbon Buttons Short Length, will "Wear-Out" well before one has to worry about other parts/pieces that start to cause problems....(con't)
Hello JCJV...The codes that you have here can be verified as current codes, if you clear them out of the computer, and drive the car for a day or two...(make sure you write these current codes down first)...then re-scan you cars computer, and see what codes show up, that way they are "New, and Fresh"...(as some older codes can be intermittent)...The p0301 code looks like either a Fuel Injector type of problem, or Electrical, as in, Spark Plug Wires, Cap and Rotor, or supply Circuit...(con't)...
Greetings Gloria....Thanks kindly for your great comment...I hope that I was able to explain in easy enough terms and language, so that you and others would be able to gain some knowledge from what I have learned from fixing and tinkering with everything from cars to houses, and then some..lol..( I use to work with RaceHorses too)..The first time that I gave a Jockey a Leg-Up (boost), to help him up, I just about threw him over the other side of the Horse! (Light-Weight!)...Take care my Friend.
When the EGR valve doesn't shut when it's supposed to, Idle is rough, and No power, especially at faster/highway speeds....First thing I would suggest though, is, you need to see what Trouble Codes are stored in your cars Computer, if there are any....I'm pretty sure that you have the "OBD-2" (on board diagnostic "version" 2), which will require the use of an OBD-2 "Scan Tool"....North America's Governments made OBD-2 standard on vehicles around 1996 If I recall correctly....Get those Codes!
Ok thanks a lot I will check out your videos, and i will check my codes that came back after clearing the cars computer.
Hello, once again JCJV....I should also tell you the following....Whenever you "Reset" (clear codes out of the computer of your vehicle using the scan device), your cars computer has to "Re-Learn", and shall we say, "Re-Calibrate" itself again....All you have to do, is drive your vehicle around for a short while, and your cars computer does all of the re-setting all by itself....Make sure that you do after fixing something or changing parts, or you might have problems that are not really there!
Greetings once again Krystian Leesowy....As I was making a Cup-Ah-Joe (coffee), my Elephant Memory kicked in, and I remembered something that I should have mentioned when I replied to you, just a short time ago...What I remembered, is to also keep a Look-Out for any "Cracks" or Fissures in your Distributor Cap, as well as any "Moisture" (condensation) inside your Distributor Cap as well....As for the Cracks, this can cause Unwanted-Scattered-Sparks inside your distributor cap, causing...(con't)
Greetings Krystian Leesowy....Please, Note, the "Title" of this Video, is, just how to "Inspect" the Cap and Rotor, Not the Whole Distributor....I have already Posted "Many" Replies to your concerns and questions, as it pertains to the Distributor "Cap" and "Rotor", and, just Scroll "Down" (under this Reply), and you can read "All" Posts, in respect to your First "Comment" that you posted about a week ago....In those "Replies" I do mention about the "Gap" between the Rotor and Cap!....Take care
You are welcome, my Friend....I was thinking about those codes a bit more....Only Number 1 cylinder has the misfire, and because the other codes indicated "Lean" (oxygen sensors send lean voltage signal to computer when warmed up), has me thinking that it might be a faulty "Fuel Injector" or related wiring circuit....(4 cylinder has 4 Injectors, and 6 cylinder has 6 injectors), not sure if you have a 4 or 6 cylinder engine?...Now, if the Injector was injecting fuel into cylinder #1 and..(con't)
Greetings Oliver Renacia....It appears with the design of the distributor cap that you see in this particular video (of mine), that you have to replace the whole cap, as there doesn't seem to be any carbon buttons available when I did a parts search on this type of cap...You will find that when that carbon button wears out, it usually carves a circular hole in the rotor metal contact strip!...Replace the cap and rotor before the carbon button gets too short!...Take care, and have a good one
...even spark plug wires that are to close to one another, can cause what is called induction crossfire (when high voltage jumps from one spark plug lead to the other one that is too close to it)...Keep them at least 3/8 of an Inch apart, especially when they are running parallel to each other...If it's time/mileage for those Oxygen Sensors to be changed, then, get them replaced, as more then likely I think that's the reason for the slow response...(con't)...
the car runs pretty well the same at cold start maby even a bit worse, and i have noticed every once in awhile that when the car idles and not moving it sometimes feels like it skips a beet and then goes back to normal. I will clear the codes in my cars computer and try putting new parts into the car that you have mentioned and check the spark plug wires. and I will let you know how things turn out. thanks for all your help.
Hello JCJV....Almost everything pertaining to engine management parts, indeed need replacing at Mileage/Time intervals as suggested by the Manufacturer/Factory to keep performance/emissions at a satisfactory level....But, there are other parts that can be cleaned and re-installed with a fresh gasket, if required....I have had bad running vehicles, both carburetor and fuel injected, due to carbon coating, and even Chunks of carbon keeping the EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) stuck open!...(con't)
...some Manufacturers of After Market Distributor Caps that I have seen in the past, Engineered, and molded, a "Breather" like "Mini Tower" on top of the Distributor Cap, to facilitate or minimize the Problem-Thingie with the build-up of Condensation, or Moisture inside the Distributor Cap, well as I see it anyways....So, thanks to my "Elephant" like Memory, or perhaps, shall we say, Light Bulb came on in my Head, then, or should I say, there you have it!...lol....Take care, and have a good one
my car is a 98 mercury mystique that's not carbureted, we have only replaced the spark plugs so far, and thinking that we should replace maby the 02 sensors and egr valve. And when going uphill or accelerating fast when moving it will start to sputter and then when I floor it it will stop sputtering and run good. but when i put the pedal to the floor when stopped it will barely move it sputters so bad.
Thanks for the info. Does the rotor make the contact on the distributor cap or is it just spark jumping. And do I have to clean the contacts. This is why I posted my original comment that you spent the entire video on center spring loaded contact yet you didn't cover any other parts of the distributor.
Greetings Krystian Leesowy....Hear-Yee...Hear-Yee...--->"The 2nd-Video"
...the spark plug was firing intermittently, then raw fuel would be going past the first oxygen sensor, and it would read "Rich"....(catalytic converter would probably burn up the rich mixture) before continuing on to the 2nd oxygen sensor, thus giving an ok reading (that's if you have the setup that has 1 oxygen sensor before the catalytic converter, and the other one after it) ....but, then again, the computer might be telling the injectors to lean out because of the rich mixture...(con't)...
Great video.
I have a question. I'm trying to tune up as much things as I can that aren't to tough for me to handle. I have a 94 Jeep YJ 4cyl and having issues when accelerating from a dead stop in first gear. The whole jeep will shake/stutter for a quick second then everything works fine. I haven't changed or inspected my distributor cap since I've owned it so I was curious if you think this could be something that would cause a rough acceleration.'
I just replaced the spark plugs, throttle position sensor and O2 sensor.
Thanks in advance.
Greetings ncron714....Thanks for watching, and for Your question as well....There are a number of things, that can cause the Symptom that Your Jeep seems to be experiencing....Do You happen to be seeing any "Dashboard Lights", Lighting Up, like, a Warning Light or its equivalent?....Usually, the first thing to do, other then spend a lot of money, replacing parts, that may not be causing the problem, is to first, "Check for Trouble Codes", that might be Stored in Your Jeep's "On-Board Computer"....I haven't had a Jeep to work on, but, I think, in order to See Any Trouble Codes, that might be "Stored" inside Your Jeep Computer, there might be a certain Way, to use Your Jeep's Ignition Key, in the Ignition Switch, to then have, a Light "Flash" a (if I'm not mistaken) Series of "2" Digit Trouble Codes....With the Engine "OFF", Insert Your Ignition Key in the Ignition Switch, then, Turn the key, from, OFF, to the RUN (Not Start Position) using the Following Sequence....ON...OFF...ON...OFF...ON (and leave the Key in the Last ON Position, and wait a short while, and see if a Dashboard Light, Starts Flashing)....Then, Write Down, the Number of Flashes, that You see (if any), and, from what I recall, it should end with the Number 55.
Once You get the/those Codes written down, remember to turn the Key Off, and remove the Key.
Any Codes at all?
Even if You don't get any trouble codes, You could try the following...
...I have found that, adding some Fuel Injector "Cleaner", to the Gas Tank, can make its way, through Your Fuel Injectors, and Clean the Deposits, that can Clog one or more Fuel Injectors, and can also, keep the Fuel Injectors, from Spraying a very Fine Mist or Vapor, that is very Important, for Your Engine's Power and Fuel Economy.
Just follow the Instructions on the (small) Bottle.
Be careful, as some of the Stuff, that I used a while ago, actually Cleaned all the Crud out of my Gas Tank as well, and, Totally Clogged my Fuel Filter!
So, if You do use the Fuel Injector Cleaner, it would be a good idea, to Change Your "Fuel Filter", once that Tank of Gasoline, with the Fuel Injector Cleaner in it, is used up, and, New gasoline is added to Your Gas Tank, With-out the Fuel Injector Cleaner in it.
Check out Wrangler Forum . Com (without the Spaces in-between), as, the People over there, know "Tons" about Your Jeep!
Also, check out Other Jeep "Forums" as well.
Good Luck...
...Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings JCJV....If your vehicle is hesitating only while you continue to push on the gas pedal, and you have a carburetor on your engine, it sounds to me that your accelerator pump in your carburetor is not giving a full squirt of gasoline into your carburetors throttle bore/bores.....When you said floor it, did it at first start to hesitate, and then go?.....There are lots of things that can cause your problem....Fuel Pump perhaps?....Have you had a Tune-Up recently?....What car do you have?
my car jerks when accelerating and going up hill but when I floor it it runs fine. would you think it could be the distributor cap, or what would you think it could be.
Thanks nice video
Greetings...will0i0am62............Thanks for the nice comment, and thanks, for watching too...........The "secondary" (high voltage side), of an engine's ignition system, has to be kept in very good condition, other-wise, it'll probably, just be a matter of time, until the engine itself, will probably start out by, misfiring some, not idling so smooth anymore, and, if really bad, the engine might not even want to start, possibly (can also, sometimes happen, if there's moisture, inside of the distributor cap)..........There's quite a bit of, high voltage "arcing" (sparking), happening, between the spinning rotor's metal tip, and, each of the metal terminals (inside of the cap), and over time, the metal gets eaten away, which will then, make an even Bigger gap, and make the ignition coil work harder then it did, when that gap was smaller, with a newer cap & rotor (same thing happens, if the spark plug's electrode gap, gets Bigger as well)............So, for a good running engine, that will give good performance and fuel economy, then, a person should keep, the...distributor cap & rotor...the spark plug wires...and...the spark plugs...from getting too worn, (or, worn out), too old, and maybe, corroded as well possibly, and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
after removing that black cap, there's a plastic surrounding the rotor. That plastic has a small crack on it. Will that contribute to fluctuations in performance, struggle to pick up or jerks when above 60kmh, for example? or any other? The car is a 1996 toyota sprinter & it idles properly. However, sometimes when at a stop light the rpm would go below 900 and stutter. Please advice urgently. Thanks you
+Rovin Nauth Greetings Rovin Nauth....Thanks for watching........................Anytime, an Ignition related Part, gets Damaged, or Worn too much, then, that will usually Increase the chance, of having some Problems showing up, especially so, on the Secondary, High Voltage side of the Ignition's System's Electrical Circuit.............................The Distributor Cap and Rotor, along with the Spark Plugs, and spark plug Wires, are subjected to many Thousands of Volts...!!!.........................Maybe, try a New, Good Quality Cap and Rotor first, and see if that helps.....................Have You been keeping up, with Your Toyota's "Maintenance"...???...as in, a "Tune-up", and Replacing Parts as needed, according to Toyota's Recommended Time/Mileage/Kilometer-age Interval...???........................If You don't already have a (Maintenance) Manual or Book, for Your Toyota Sprinter, try to get one, as they are almost, worth their weight in Gold...!!!...(so to speak)........................Have Your Vehicle's Computer "Scanned" for Trouble Codes, and also, have Your Vehicle's "Fuel Pressure"..."Checked/Verified" as well...................................If Your Engine has a Rubber-like "Timing Belt" on it, make sure, that a "New One", get Installed, at Toyota's Recommended, Mileage/Kilometer-age (and maybe, Time as well...???) Interval, cuz, if it goes "Snap" (aka, Breaks), then some very Expensive Engine Damage, could very well happen...!!!...and, I hope not............................So then, have those things done, that I mentioned above, and, if You like, You can let me know, what You find out, thanks, and Good Luck.............Till next time.............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
there was a bit of white dust on the tip of the coils inside the distributor, can that be the cause of my misfires and inability to start? the car cranks and it wants to start but it misfires and backfires
Greetings...That Don't get the bitches.............Thanks for watching............Well, generically speaking, no amount of Corrosion, Dirt-like Stuff, or, even any Moisture (usually being, water condensation), that is showing-up, on the Distributor, in the general area, of the Inside, of the of the distributor Cap, is, as far as I see it, is really not very good at all, cuz of, all of that Very High Voltage, usually trying, to get to, an (electrical) Ground Source, the easiest, and fastest way, that it's able to..............If that, so called White Dust, is causing, something like, the Low Voltage wiring Connections, to, not be so good, then yes, that, in itself, could very well cause a problem..............As far as a vehicle's Ignition System is concerned, the ignition system's Parts/Components, have to be in really good shape, and also be, as Clean, and, as Moisture Free as possible, or maybe, the result might be, an (ignition related) Misfire, or, as bad as, an Engine, that will Not Start at all...............If You can let me know, what...???... Your Vehicle's...Year...Make...Model...Engine Size, and what its configuration is, as in, inline, V-6, V-8, etc., and the number of cylinders, that it has, then, once I actually know, what You have there, I will hopefully, be able to, do what I can, to help You out, and........till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
is there a way to perform any test using an equipment such a multimeter, or any other to certainly determine that distributor cap is bad??, I have a 00 Nissan xterra, and I remove distributor cap and saw a lot of metal pieces on the inside bottom, and red dust on the distributor cap, my engine crank but doesn't start, I took my distributor to a place where check the coil and they told me that is ok.
+carlos alfredo lopez saldini ....Greetings carlos alfredo lopez saldini....Thanks for watching...................You could, Ohm/Resistance Test, the distributor cap's, Carbon Button/Resistor, but, probably won't make much of a difference, considering, Your distributor Cap's condition, as I'm imagining it......Metal Pieces...???....That "Not Wanted", Red Dust, is the biggest clue...........A New distributor Cap and Rotor is probably needed...........Try to get a distributor Cap and Rotor, that have "Brass Terminals" on them (better than Aluminum terminals), and, if You can Buy them as a Set or Kit (Cap and Rotor in the same Package), that might save You some Money as well..................The spark plug "Wires", have to be in very Good Condition "Inside".............If Your Xterra Engine, needs New Spark Plugs, try to get the Spark Plugs, that Nissan Recommends, for Your Exact Engine, and make sure, that, the spark plug "Gap" (between the spark plug's Electrodes) are what Nissan Specifies, for Your Exact Engine (less Problems that way).........................With the Engine "Not Running", Only Remove "One" spark plug "Wire" at a time, and put it back On, before doing the next Wire, or, You might have Trouble, putting those spark plug "Wires", back where they belong...!!!........................If the Terminals, Inside of the distributor Cap, are Worn too much, or the Carbon Button gets too Short, or it's Dusty/Dirty, or there is Moisture inside the Cap, then, that's just "Not Good"...!!!.....................Maybe, Replace the distributor Cap and Rotor, and if need be, the Spark Plugs as well, and see if that works, and "Carefully", Clean and remove, any Dust and stuff, that should not be there...................If You care to, just let me know, how You are makin' out, and, if need be, we can proceed from there, if You like, and..........till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
...so, now that you brought the lack of information that I provided about Inspecting the actual Parts, I will now inform you of what experience has taught me....The smaller Distributor Cap and Rotor need to be replaced when that "Tiny-Spring-Loaded-Carbon-Button" gets (wears) too short, as well as the Electrical-Arcing-Erosion that occurs at the "Tip" of the metal strip part of the Rotor, where it spins closest to the contacts inside the (smaller sized) distributor cap...(con't)
...also, does your car start and run ok when it is first started up for the day?...When your car is cold, the computer runs the system on what is called "Open Loop", meaning that the Oxygen Sensors (I think you have 2 of them) don't become part of the computers operating circuit until they get heated up to approx. 600 degrees farenheit...(You might have heated oxygen sensors, to speed things up)...Also, take care of all of those "Scheduled Maintenance" things...Let me know how you progress...
Perfect
Best of the best
Greetings ashok banga....Thanks kindly, for Your very nice comment, my Friend....My goal, for most of the UA-cam Videos that I make, is to, try and explain things, using simple, and easy to understand language, along with, a reasonable "Close-Up" (aka, Zoom in with the Video Camera), so, People, from all over the World, will be able to (I hope), actually "See", and be able to "Understand", what it is, that I'm trying to Show them, as well as, trying to Explain to them, so (I hope), they will have a much better chance, at, being able to Learn about, and help them with, the Subject that I happen to be Discussing, in my UA-cam Videos, at any given time....Thanks for watching, and, for Your "Great" comment as well....Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
can we replace the carbon button?
...your Ignition Coil work harder then it really should, because it takes more Voltage to Jump that Larger Gap, much like a larger gap in a spark plug would....Same thing happens when the spark plug Terminals Inside the Distributor Cap starts "Eroding", due to the same "High-Voltage-Electrical-Arc-Erosion!....Psssst, I have done what I said not to, to save some money, probably like many others have!...lol...So, keep an eye on those "Electrical-Erosion" Points that I have mentioned....Take care
The code that keeps coming back is.
P1131
Lack of H02S11
Switches - sensor indicates lean.
Could bad cap or rotor cause engine vibration on a dead stop acceleration. Car is 99 civic ex 5speed new water pump, belts, thermostat, plugs, wires, clutch, radiator. It started doing this after new clutch installation. Before the new clutch the car would hesitate before takeoff on dead stop. Now with the new clutch engine shakes when I don't give it gave but when I give it gas it doesn't shake. Thanks!!
Joe Vang Greetings Joe Vang....Thanks for watching.............There can be, quite a few "Things", that can make Your Engine "Act", like You were Describing, in Your comment...................................There are, as I see it, a few "To Do's", to Reduce the chance, at having, a not so Happy & Well Running Engine..................................I like to use an "Old Saying", every now and again, and that "Saying" is..."The Chain is Only as Strong as the Weakest Link"...pretty much meaning, try to keep all of the Vehicle's "Parts and Pieces", in good working order, as in, Air & Fuel Filters...as well as...Change all of Your Vehicle's Fluids, when the Time or Mileage/Kilometer-age becomes due, as that in itself, sure helps...................................Well, if Your Honda "Runs really Good & Strong", while You really "Step on the Gas Pedal", then, to me, the Hesitation, could be caused, by something, along the lines of a "Vacuum Leak", and it could be caused by "Many Things"....................................Could be a Faulty "Vacuum" Rubber Hose/Metal Tubing, or maybe Disconnected somewhere, in Your Honda's Engine Compartment....................................Did You "Check" the "Gap" between the Spark Plug "Electrodes"...Before they were Installed in Your Engine...???..................................Make sure, that All of the Spark Plug "Wires/Leads, are kept away from one another, and, not near any Metal Components, in Your Honda's Engine Compartment, to help Prevent, what is known as...Ignition Related..."Cross-Fire"...that's where, sometimes, the High Voltage, from One Spark Plug Wire/Lead, gets "Transferred Into", One of the "Other", Wires/Leads, just sayin'........................................................"If" Your Honda does have a Distributor & Rotor, I think it would be a very Good Idea, to Install a "New" Distributor Cap & Rotor, and try to get a New Distributor Cap, that has "Brass"..."Terminals"...on/in it, as I find, the "Brass Equipped" Ones, much better then the "Aluminum Ones", and, not much more money as well.....................................There are basically "2"..."Things"...that should be done, on just about any, (Gasoline) "Fuel Injected Engine", and those "2-Things" are..........Have Your Honda's "On-Board Computer"..."Scanned"...for..."Trouble Codes", which requires a Hand Held "Scanner", and that will almost "Pin-Point" any Problems, without having to go on, what I like to call, a..."Wild-Goose-Chase"...lol...................................If You don't have a "Scanner", and don't care to Buy One, then, make a few Phone Calls, to some "Vehicle, Parts/Sales Establishments", and ask "Them", if "They" will..."Scan"...Your Honda's "Computer For Free"...???...as I've heard, that, some of "Them" actually "Do"...!!!............................Then, the Second "Thing", that should be Done, is to get Your Honda's..."Fuel Pressure, Checked/Verified"...................................."If"...???...Your Honda's..."Fuel Pressure"..."Is Not"..."Within Specifications"...for the most part, Your "Engine", just won't "Run, as Good as It's able to"........................So then, consider what I was tellin' You about, just above, and, if You care to, You can let me know, how it's goin'............................If You need any more help or advice, just let me know, in a comment/reply, under any of my UA-cam Videos..................................Good Luck...and...Till next time..............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
The air and fuel filter is new. Well thanks I will check for vacuum leaks and also change the cap and rotor. We'll see how that goes. It's strange because the motor run great and idles great. The only problem is the one I describe. Anyways thanks!!
will a bad cap , rotor and or distributor cause the car to crank but not start or start then shut off.?
Charlie Reyes Greetings Charlie Reyes....Thanks for watching this UA-cam Video of mine, and also, for Your comment/question as well..................................................There are quite a few "Things", that can cause a Car or Truck's Engine, to Not Start, or, Run/Operate/Perform Poorly as well, as far as, "Only" the "Ignition System" is concerned..................................................A Vehicles "Ignition System"..."Does Not"...like having Any "Moisture" (aka, Water, Condensation, etc.), any-where near its Component Parts...Especially..."Inside the Distributor Cap"...because, all of that "High Voltage", will usually become, shall we say..."Scattered"...and probably..."Won't"...make its way, From the "Tip" of the "Rotor", to the Intended Metal "Terminal"..."Inside" the "Distributor Cap", and with this particular Scenario, it has been known, to cause, a..."No Start" of the Engine, more-so, when the Weather Conditions are, Damp/Raining, well, You get the picture.............................................................Also, if there happens to be, even so much, as a..."Hairline Crack" (aka, a hardly visible crack) in the "Distributor Cap", as well as, if there happens to be any "Dust Like" Deposits, especially, something like a "Carbon Like" kind of Deposit, "Inside" the "Distributor Cap", which will probably cause, the "Scattered Spark" Syndrome, kinda like, what the "Not Wanted"...Moisture-Inside-the-Distributor-Cap...did, some-what...............................................................If the Car Starts, and then, Shuts Off, that in itself, can be caused by "Many" Things..................................................................Depending on How the Engine actually "Runs", right after Start-Up, (as in Rough/Miss-Firing, or Good and Smooth), and Before it Hypothetically "Shuts Off", will be, quite a good "Clue", that can be used to Determine (or Guess....lol), if it's not something that is "Fuel System" related, and is actually being caused by the "Ignition System", and depending on, just which "Ignition System", that we are Talkin' about, then, it might be, oh, something, as simple, as a "Not-So-Good"...Wiring or Electrical Ground "Connection", and sometimes, and rarely, something, like a worn-out Ignition Switch, can at times, become problematic............................................................If Your Distributor "Cap and Rotor" look like the ones in this Video of mine, I find, that they "Don't" Last all that Long, and, as I see it, is because of the "Weak" Design, more-so, pertaining to the Very Small "Carbon Button", which "Burns Out/Wears Away" quite quickly (mileage/kilometer/age wise), and, the "Rotor", is, shall we say..."Wimpy", and No-Where Near, being, that of, the, like I like to call them..."Industrial Strength"...Distributor Caps & Rotors, that used to be found, on something like, the good ole.."Points & Condenser" Distributors, and some of the Early "Electronic Distributors" as well............................................................................In order to have Your Engine...Run/Perform well, and to get much Better Gas Mileage/Kilometer-age, then, it's a "No-Brainer" (aka, a Must Do!...lol), to make sure, and "Keep" Your Engine, and its related "Ignition Parts"..."Fuel System Parts"..."Air & Fuel Filters"...and, Any, and All, "Maintenance" Related, as well as, a Complete "Tune Up", and have Everything "Adjusted/Set", to the Factory/Manufacturers, and if Applicable, the Added-On, After-Market Parts "Specifications"...!!!..........................................................No-Sir-ee-Bob, please, don't get me wrong, as I'm not Doin'...the...Point the Finger Blame game, but rather, trying to help You out, in giving You, the Best Chance, at having Your Car's Engine...Start...Run...Perform...as well as..."Save" You some Money at the Gas Pump, in terms of, getting, Much Better & More...Gas Mileage/Kilometer-age...!!!....................................................Good Luck....................................................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Also when I take the air cleaner off the tbi open the flap I can smell a hint of fuel is this normal or a sign of leaking spider injector
SuperJeremi10 Greetings SuperJeremi10....A Hint of Fuel (Gasoline), is one thing, but, if You happen to be Smellin', a very Strong, Very Noticeable, Gasoline Smell, it's probably, a really good sign, that, Somethin's-Up, alright...!!!...............................There are a number of things, to be watching out for..................................Some of those potential, Gasoline Leaks, that, can sometimes be Detected, by Smell alone, can be, some of the following....................................A (Gasoline)..."Leaking"..."Fuel Pressure Regulator"...can, at times, depending on the (Intake's), Upper, Plenum Design, can cause, an Engine to Run, Way Too Rich (air/fuel ratio-wise), due to the Un-Wanted Gasoline, in Liquid Form, Leaking past, what I see, as a possibly "Ruptured Diaphragm", Inside the Fuel Pressure Regulator, and can get Inhaled by the Engine's Intake System, in the Form of Gasoline Vapor/Mist, but, You were sayin' that, Your Fuel Pressure "Test", wasn't showing any noticeable "Drop" in Fuel Pressure, for quite some time, so, just remember, what I was just sayin', for future use, if need be...............................Just about anything, (but, not including the Fuel Pressure Regulator, at this time), that goes Inside of Your Intake/Plenum, that has the Potential, to be Leaking Gasoline, when, shall we say..."It Springs a Leak"...especially, while under that, oh, about 60 PSI there-abouts, can be, anything, as simple as an "O-Ring" Seal, on, one or more, Fuel Injectors/Poppet Nozzles, or even something like, just about any Fuel (Gasoline) "Connection Points", that Require a "High Pressure, Fuel/Gasoline, Leak-Proof Seal/Connection......................"Leaking Fuel Injector or Poppet Nozzle", if so equipped, maybe...???.........................You were sayin' something about some "Corrosion"...???..................................I'm thinkin', if, any of that, so called "Corrosion", happened to be found, in an Area, where there is "High, Fuel/Gasoline Pressure"...present, such as a Bore/Hole, or, any Fuel related Connection point, that has to be able to "Seal and Contain", that, rather High Fuel Pressure, and is not able to, and, might just start "Leaking", then, that, can be a "Clue", that You can keep in mind...................................If Your Fuel Pressure doesn't Drop, for quite some time, I really can't see the problem being the Fuel Supply/High Fuel Pressure Side, being Your Problem..............................Sometimes, even "New Parts", can be "Faulty" from the get-go, so, don't completely Rule-Out any New Parts, just because They happen to be New, as I've found in the past, and rarely, does it ever happen, as well...............................Did You Notice any "Carbon Build-Up", on things, like Your "Throttle Body's...Throttle Valve/Butterfly" and the Bore/Hole, that the Valve/Butterfly operates in, and also, the "Idle Air Control Valve's...Pintle/Plunger Head"...and the Air Passageway, that it gets installed in as well...???.......................................I've used a Product called "Sea Foam", to "Clean & Dissolve", the Carbon Deposits, that I found, in the Area, near the Throttle Valve/Butterfly, that is inside the Throttle Body, as, what lots of Folks are sayin', that, those Carbon Deposits, can cause, Engine Running Problems, at Low RPM's, at times.........................................Air Filter New and Very Clean...???...hey, if it can't breathe fresh air, then, Gasoline, it will be...!!!...lol....................................So..."No Computer Trouble Codes What-So-Ever"...???........Wowsers...!!!...I would be thinkin', that, there might be some "Miss-Fire Codes"...or...some..."Lay-Zee Oxygen Sensor Codes"...showin' on Your "Scan Tool", when You Plugged it into Your Tahoe's On-Board Computer...!!!..................When You last had Your Scan Tool, hooked up to Your Tahoe, Did You "Clear Out and Reset Your Tahoe's Computer"...with the Scan Tool...???................................If You didn't, try that, and see, if "Any New Codes get Stored"...or, the MIL Light comes on, on Your dashboard"..."After You Drive Your Tahoe, for a Few Days.......................................One last thing...perhaps, find Someone, or a Qualified, Automotive Repair Establishment", and see if They happen to have a High Quality "Scan Tool/Analyzer", that will be able to "Read", the "Inner Depths', of Your Tahoe's, On-Board Computer, and, for starters, see if You can Retrieve, both, the..."Short Term, and Long Term, Fuel Trims"...as that should provide some very Valuable Information, to see, wether or not, Your Fuel Injectors, are Administering the Correct amount of Fuel, for the Engine's Needs, at any given RPM's and Load Conditions as well, but, to save some Money, perhaps, First, check out Your EGR Valve/System/Passageways, for those Carbon Chunks, or just plain Carbon Dust, as the case may be, and if need be, Buy and Install, one of those Special...EGR Valve..."Anti-Carbon-Chunks"..."Screen Type of Gasket"...and, move on from there...............................Best of Luck, my Friend, and..................Till next time...........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
well what it seems to be doing is it seems to sputter a little under power and acceleration tried new cap n rotor no effect it likes to spit liquid out the tail pip even after a long50 mile trip I haven't checked the egr system but everything at the tbi seems clean I put seafom in the fuel at half a tank I put the whole thing in no change in running air filter is new after I had a tune up done to it 8,000 miles ago I had a smog test done it passed with a high score indicating it was healthy the computer was reset 700 miles before testing no codes ae present n the computer at all no engine light the light comes on before cranking with the others like the security oil abs etc indicating that they are working she fires right up on first crank even before priming it feels as if it has a small misfire but to small for the computer to detect as it seems within range the exhaust is begging to small as if its a bit rich the plugs not have carbon build up at all or signs of abnormal wear I would take it to a shop but I really cant afford to take it and ialso cant have it in the shop for days or hours on end for testing as Monday - Saturday it used for carpooling basically normally I have it on the road form around 3-8 then again at 10-12 I pick family up carpool kids errands as my car is the only one running atm the fuel pump on our other car has died and cant get it replaced just yet so I really cant have this one in the shop it has to stay running other wise we lose money.
...Try removing spark plug Number 1, and see how it looks....Perhaps look at the other (5 or 3)as the case may be, and, that should tell you a thing or two about how what's going on inside the cylinders....Sometimes to fix problems like yours and others, the repair might only be fixing a bad wire connection (like a ground wire maybe), or a connector that may have corroded....You may find that the new parts you put in, won't fix the problem, or, maybe they will....Let me know, and...Good Luck!
hi my wife has a nissan bluebird 95 can this cause the car to idle funny if she revs it it will die and sometimes dies up hills
Nick Forrest Greetings Nick Forrest....Thanks for watching, and for Your comment/question as well......................................................Sorry to hear that Your...ooops, not Your's, but Your Wife's Bluebird is not running all that well...............................Let's see, if we can track down, just what the problem, or problems might be.......................................................The first couple of things that pop into my mind, as soon as I read, what the Bluebirds Symptoms were (that You indicated in Your comment), are that of, an Engine related..."Vacuum (air) Leak"...or, perhaps something, that is preventing, the much needed..."High Fuel (gasoline) Pressure"...in the Fuel System, that is "Needed", in order to have Your Engine's "Fuel Injectors", to have the ability, to supply the Engine, with enough "Injected Fuel" (gasoline), so the Engine will run smooth and have plenty of power as well........................................................There are usually "2" things that need to be done, in order to help avoid, having to go on, as I like to call it..."A Wild Goose Chase"...................................................The "Fuel Pressure", in the Fuel System, has to be with-in the Vehicle Manufacturers "Specifications", and, that should be verified with a "Fuel Pressure Gauge"............................................If You do it Yourself, be aware that there is some quite Dangerous Fuel Pressure, in the Fuel System, of a Fuel Injected Engine, and make sure, that You fully understand, how to "Safely" bleed off the Fuel Pressure, before disconnecting any fuel line fittings, or connections, and Always wear Safety Glasses, and have a fire extinguisher nearby...!!!..................................................The other thing, that should be done, is to find out, if there are any "Trouble Codes", being "Stored", in the Bluebird's "On-board Computer".........................................................I'm not sure, as to which "Type" of "Computer", that's installed in the Bluebird, as it might be that of, an "OBD-2" (On-Board Diagnostics, version 2) type, that requires a "Scan Tool" (kinda looks like, a slightly larger, hand held Calculator), that uses a cable/connector, to Connect to the Bluebird's "Diagnostic Port" (if it has one?), to "Extract" (aka, read) the "Trouble Codes" stored in the Bluebirds on-board Computer (if there happens to be any, that is)...or...the Bluebird's on-board Computer, might be, the Type, that only requires a "Screwdriver", in order to, Turn a "Screw", (just a partial turn), that is usually seen, on the "Outer Case", of Your Bluebirds on-board Computer................................................Make sure, that You fully understand, the Exact "Procedure", when-ever trying to "Extract" those Trouble Codes, from the Bluebird's on-board Computer, or, something might go "ZAP", and, at the very same time, "Expensive" as well...!!!................................................Check with some of the, I would say, "Larger", Vehicle Parts Sales establishments, in, or near Your Neighborhood, over the telephone, and ask them, if they would "Scan", or "See", what "Trouble Codes" (if any, that is), that might be "Stored" in the Bluebird's "On-Board Computer"..."For Free"...(as I've heard, that some Parts Places in the United States of America, actually Do this, for Free!)...................................................Also, ask them, if they can "Check" the Bluebird's "Fuel Pressure" as well, (might not be Free, but reasonably priced, I hope), but should be done, never-the-less...............................................So then, Once You find out, if there happens to be Any (or Not), "Trouble Codes"..."Stored", in the Bluebird's Computer, and have also "Verified", that the Bluebird's, "Fuel Pressure", "Is, or, "Is-Not", with-in "Specifications", as, that my Friend, is a Great Starting Point, and, if needed, You can always let me know, how You're Progressing, and, I'll do what I can, to help You out.........................................................Here are a few "Things", that You can "Visually Check", with the Bluebird on Level ground, Engine Cold and Not Running, Emergency/Parking Brake On, Ignition Key in Your Pocket or Purse, as the case may be....................................................In the Engine compartment, have a look, at all of the "Vacuum" (air), "Rubber Hoses", that usually connect devices together, as at times, they can actually become "Disconnected", making for that "Vacuum (air) Leak", that I was talkin' about earlier, and also, look for any "Cracks/Splits" in those Rubber Hoses, while You're at it, just in case...................................................Last but not least, I should also be askin' You...have You, or, who-ever, been keeping up, with "Regular Maintenance", on the Bluebird, You know, Air Filter, Fuel Filter/s, Ignition related parts and pieces, as is usually indicated, in the Bluebird's Owners Manual, at the Vehicle Manufacturers, recommended replacement intervals...???............................................Oh yeah, just by having, a somewhat Dirty, and plugged-up Fuel Filter, that alone, has the ability, to make the Bluebird...Behave...just like You were saying, believe it or not.............................................Also, make sure that You "Change/Replace" the Bluebird's Fuel Filter/s "Regularly", or, the Bluebird's, Electric "Fuel Pump", might Burn Out, which happens to be quite Expensive as well...!!!............................................And, again I say...that "High Fuel Pressure is Dangerous", and must be "Bled-Off" (Reduced to Zero Pressure)..."Safely"..."Before", Changing/Replacing, the "Fuel Filter"...!!!.......................................Always remember..."Safety comes First"...!!!...............................Good Luck.......................Till next time...Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
there are six codes now in my cars computer,
p0153 o2 circuit slow responce (Bank 2, sensor 2)
p1131 lack of h02s11 switches-sensor indicates lean.
p1151 lack of h02s21 switches sensor indicates lean.
p0133 o2 cicuit slow responce (bank 1,sensor 1)
p0174 system too lean (bank 2)
p0301 cylinder 1 misfire detected.
...now that the "Smaller-Cap-and-Rotor" (and in my opinion) not so well designed, problems have been addressed, I will now move on to the "Industrial-Strength", of the kind of Distributor Cap and Rotor that I most certainly will give a "Thumbs-Up" for, and that is the other larger Distributor Cap and Rotor (Tan colored Cap, and that Large Rotor that is seen in this video....I have Never, Ever, worn out a Carbon Button, or the Metal Contact Strip, where it contacts the carbon button...(con't)
Greetings Krystian Leesowy....Psssst...(shhhhhh, I have a Secret for You!)...lol...Because you were saying that I Focused mostly on the "Carbon-Button" on this particular "Cap & Rotor"-Video, I got to thinking, that I should perhaps make a "2nd"--->"Cap and Rotor"-Video, explaining what else to be looking out for....I have most of the stuff ready, but still have to make the Video, soon, I hope....I still don't have a "Whole-Distributor" to show Folks yet...."Stay-Tuned"....Take care my Friend
Any idea why this newly installed cap and rotor are wobbling? without the motor running everything feels secure. This is only after the new install. Did I eff things up yanking the old rotor off or do I have a bad part?
ua-cam.com/video/m8y5XwltpN4/v-deo.html
Greetings...David James...........Thanks for watching, and...Wowsers...!!!...that's, the most impressive..."Wobbling"...Distributor, that's probably known to mankind, well, as far as I "see" it, that is (and I'm gonna nominate, Your Distributor, for a much deserved Award...lol)............Well, my first thought, was that, the Distributor's (spinning) Shaft, that the Rotor mounts on top of, is "Bent" quite badly............You just "Replaced"..."Only"...the..."Cap and Rotor"...???............Were they the "Exact/Correct" Parts, for Your "Exact" Vehicle and Engine...???..............Maybe, "Compare" the Old parts, with the New parts...any Differences at all...???............When installing the distributor Cap, did it "Fit, and Seat/touch down", on the distributor's Body, reasonably freely, without being too loose, or, too tight...???..............If the Rotor, is the Push on Type (as opposed to, the bolt on type), was it pushed Down, all the way...???..............Might be, that, the Rotor is making Contact with, the Inside of the distributor Cap, and if so, You should be able, to actually see, any Rubbing/Contact, that was going on, by having a Look, inside of the distributor Cap (the only Part, of the Rotor, that is supposed to make Contact with the distributor Cap, is the Center-Carbon-contact Button).............Here's some more food for thought.............Was that the Original Distributor, or was it a Replacement (new or used?) Distributor, that was shown in that UA-cam Video...???.............Here are a few things that can be done, and, is, as follows..............Is that, the "Correct" Distributor, for Your "Exact" Vehicle and Engine...???..............Having the Engine Cold and Not Running, grab the distributor Cap with Your Hand, and, try to move it "side to side", in many Directions, to see, whether or not, if there happens to be any Movement at all...???.............Then, if needed, mark the spark plug wires, near the distributor Cap, so that, they get reinstalled in their correct locations, well, unless You don't need to, cuz, You already know how to, to begin with...............Then, Remove the Distributor "Cap", and, grab the Rotor, and then, gently, pull up, and push down on it, and, there should be a bit of ,"Play/Clearance"...............If, there "is not", any, up and down, Play/Clearance", then, there is probably, some "Not Wanted Force", being placed on top of the Oil Pump (if applicable, that is), and, is "Not Good", for the Oil Pump, and, if there is Lots of "Force" involved, as a result of tightening the Distributor "Hold Down" Clamp/Bracket's, Bolt or Nut (if applicable), then, that, just might be, a possibility, that's causing that Wobbling Distributor (cap)............While You're at it, gently "Twist" (not up and down), the Rotor, back and forth, in a circular fashion, to feel, the amount of "Clearance", that's between the helical Gear, that's on the end of the distributor's shaft, and the helical Gear, that's on the Camshaft..............There should be, just a little bit of Clearance, when those two helical gears "Mesh" (that be, the clearance, that's between those two helical gears, when they are in contact, with one-another).............If there "is not", any, up and down "Play/Clearance", then I hope, that, the distributor's Shaft, is Not permanently "Bent"............If needed, there are "Spacers" (that look, kinda like, Flat Washers), that can be purchased, that go between, the Base (collar), of the distributor's Body, and, the surface, where that part of the distributor gets mounted into/onto, and, by choosing the Correct "Thickness" of Spacers (or, a stack of them), then, there should be a bit of up and down "Clearance"..."After"...the distributor's..."Hold Down Clamp/Bracket...Bolt" (or what-ever), is Tightened down, to, shall we say, Lock the Distributor, in its proper Base/Initial Timing location..............Perhaps..."Remove" the Distributor (but first, make sure, that, You know how to "Reinstall it Correctly"...!!!), and give the gear end of it, a Spin, and, move the shaft, up and down, as well as, from side to side, to feel if it's too tight, or maybe, too loose...???.............What year of Vehicle, and, what Engine...???...cuz, the more I know, from the get-go, then, the more, that, I will have to go on...thanks............If You like, You can let me know, if You found the problem, or, if You didn't............Good luck, and......till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
what if the cap appears to be in good condition?
Greetings...SpyderRios....Thanks for watching....................Well, if the Distributor Cap looks to be, as good as, You were sayin' it appeared to be, then...Maybe...???...it can be put back into service (aka, Re-Used)...providing that, there wasn't a..."Hairline Crack"...or two (hard to see)...in the Distributor Cap, and/or, the presents, of any Carbon Dust (sometimes, it can be, Carbon Tracking), and, Hairline Cracks, and any unwanted Carbon, (inside) of the Distributor Cap, and even, any Moisture/condensation, can make for, some rather, Not Wanted, shall we say..."Spark Scatter"..perhaps, where-by, as the High Voltage leaves the Tip of the Rotor, it starts "Dancing Around", inside the Distributor Cap, usually Not making its way, to the Correct Terminal (inside of the Cap), and, it may or may not, end up, going to the Wrong Terminal...!!! (Not Good...!!!...Engine Damage...???)....................How does the "Rotor" (that spins around, inside of the distributor cap) Look...???.....................So then, have a really Close Look, for any Hairline Cracks...and...to find out, if any Carbon, is hiding, inside of Your distributor cap, just get a piece of (dry) white paper (disposable) Towel, and drag it around, the inside of Your Distributor Cap, to see if any "Carbon" gets stuck-to, that Paper Towel (???)........Also, the (carbon resistor type), of spark plug "Wires"...usually..."Wear-out"...(internally/inside)...so Don't be Fooled, by, how Good, they appear to Look, from the "Outside/Exterior" of them, and...........till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
My cars a 6 cylinder, I will check the spark plugs, go over wires, check connections and see what i find out and I will let you know how it goes.
i need help my 99 tahoe has been sputtering at low speeds and has a hesitation the rpm fluctuates at idol no check engine light has had a fresh tune up new injectors when i press hard on the gas it will run fine when the when i slowly accelerate it will sputter if the ac kicks in our out at idol the rpm jumps way down to 400 if i turn the turn signal on same thing condition happens weather its wet cold hot weather the engine is cold or hot it also has had the iac change no change in operation the maf has been changed too the ignition system is also recent and the intake manifold and injectors are also recent the whole intake manifold was rebuilt cause of corrosion and bad injectors.
SuperJeremi10 Greetings SuperJeremi10....Thanks for watching, and for Your comment/questions, about the issues, that You are having, with that 1999 Tahoe of Yours.................................There are "2-Things", that really should be done, before, going on, and, as I like to say..."A Wild Goose Chase"...!!!...lol...pretty much meaning, by doing the following "2-Things" at the very Start, it could very well save, some Time and Money, in respect to, Wasting Time, and, Replacing some "Parts and Pieces", that were probably "Working Just Great", and, "Did Not" need to be "Replaced"...at all..........................Those "2 Things" are..."Scan the On-Board Computer"...in Your Tahoe, for..."Trouble Codes"...with a..."Scan Tool" (looks kinda like, a slightly Larger, hand held Calculator), that should tell You, wether or not, Your Tahoe's..."On-Board Computer"...has any..."Trouble Codes"..."Stored in its Memory"...or not...................................................The "Second Thing" to do, is to, have Your Tahoe's..."Fuel Pressure"..."Checked/Verified"...to make sure that, the..."Fuel (Gasoline) Pressure"...is..."With-in"...the..."Factory/Manufacturer's..."Fuel Pressure"..."Specifications"...and...be..."Very Careful"...when-ever working on the..."Fuel System"...as, the..."Fuel Pressure"...is in, about the 60 PSI (Pounds per Square Inch) Range...!!!...and, that "High, Dangerous, Fuel Pressure, Stays there for Days/Weeks, and maybe More", with-out the Engine Running at all...!!!...and, should be "Safely, Bled Off/Reduced, to Zero PSI"..."Before Disconnecting Any Fuel Line Components or Fittings"...!!!....and..."Always Wear Eye Protection"...and have a..."Fire Extinguisher Near-By" (just in case, and, I hope not)............................There are, perhaps, some of the Larger "Automotive Parts Sales Establishments", that will "Scan" Your Tahoe's "On-Board Computer"...for "FREE"...just ask them, and, see (actually hear..lol), what "They" have to say...good luck..........................................Here are a few "Things" to be aware of.............................."Vacuum Leaks"...in/on the Engine (Gaskets?), as well as, Any Vacuum Hoses/Pipes, that are part of Your entire Tahoe, that, can be "Faulty", or even "Diss-Connected" at times, perhaps......................Are Your Spark Plugs, as good as New, and, are the Electrodes..."Gap-ed" (as in Gap, or space, between the 2 Electrodes), as per, the "Specified" Spark Plug "Gap", for Your "Exact Engine"...???.............................Have a look at the "Deposits", that might be on, All 8 Spark Plugs, after a few Hundred Miles/Kilometers, as those Spark Plug "Deposits", are a Very Good "Clue", and, most of the Time, they have a pretty good "Story" to tell, about..."What's Go-In On, Inside Your Engine's Combustion Chambers"...............................It's probably a good idea, to just..."Remove and Replace"..."One Spark Plug at a Time"...so that "Any", of those..."8 Spark Plug Leads/Wires"..."Don't Get Connected to the Wrong Spark Plug"...!!!.......................................In the Past, I had a few Spark Plug "Leads/Wires" go "Bad" on me, and, while looking at the "Outside of Them", well, "They" looked just great, but, there was some "Faulty/Bad Connections"..."Inside" of, some of Their "Ends", where the (spark plug) "Leads/Wires", actually "Electrically Arced/Disintegrated"...between the (spark plug) Lead/Wires..."Internal, High Voltage Conductor"...and, the..."Metal End Terminal"...and one time, it was..."So Bad"...that, that particular Vehicle (at the time)..."Barely Made it Home"...!!!...Yikes"...!!!...lol.........................So, that's about it, for now..................................If You care to, You can let me know, how things are workin' out for Ya, and, if need be, just let me know, about Your Tahoe's Running issues, and, I'll do what I can, to help You out..................Good Luck, and.................Till next time..............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
well the fuel cant be it because the engine is running rich at all times you can smell it i got a cheap tester and pressure is at 66-62 before cranking i waited 10 minutes it held pressure it cant be timing as it ran just fine before hand and timing hasn't been touched there are no trouble codes stored in the computer when i pull the plugs they look normal just normal wear plugs wires and cap n rotor where all done 6 months ago i may check the cap again as its pron to failure in this model. when i bought all the replacement parts i bought only ac delco with life time warranty and i put platinum plugs in it which was recommended by the manufacture.
SuperJeremi10 Greetings SuperJeremi10....It's good to know, that Your Tahoe's Fuel Pressure checks out, and, how You were sayin', that, Your Tahoe's On-Board Computer, had No Trouble Codes, Stored in its Memory, as, that's basically tellin' me, that, the, shall we say "Things" (as in Component Parts), should be Functioning alright...............................The First thing that comes to mind (mine, that is), is, that, sometimes, that Troublesome..."EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) Valve"...probably being, the "Electrical-Linear Type" (has a Wiring Connecter/Harness, that Plugs into the end of it), as opposed to, the good ole "Vacuum Type" (that only has, usually, one rubber vacuum hose, plugged onto it)..............................I had a Chevy V-6 Engine, with, what looks like, the very same "EGR-Valve", that, I think, might just be, almost, if not, the very..."Same EGR-Valve...that's on Your Tahoe's Engine...........What happened to the Chevy, V-6 Engine, was, It "Would Not Idle" so well, and kinda Ran like Crap, somewhat, at first, then, after, some more time, and mileage/Kilometer-age as well, that Chevy V-6 Engine, Lost, Lots of Power (as in "Gutless"...lol), while just tryin' to maintain, the Minimum, Freeway/Highway Speeds, and I had to Push/Press the Gas Pedal Down "Way Too Much", just to try, and go, only that fast...!!!.....................................What it turned out to be, was..."Carbon Chunks"...some of them, being about the size, of an "Un-Ground Pepper Corn" (about 1/8 Inch in Diameter, there-abouts), and, the Carbon Chunks/Balls, would get "Stuck", between the EGR Valve's "Pintle" (aka, plunger tip), and the "Orifice" (hole/passageway), that it was supposed to "Seal Closed", and prevent "Recirculating Exhaust Gas From Flowing"..."When that Exhaust Gas, Should Not Be Flowing"...!!!...and, it, kinda Acts, just like, a "Major, Engine, Vacuum Leak"...probably would...!!!....................................There is a "Professional" way, that these, Un-Wanted Carbon "Chunks", and smaller amounts of Carbon Build-Up (sometimes found in high mileage/kilometer-age Engines, that have this, dumb habit), probably, get Removed/Cleaned-Up, and I recall the "Procedure'...(Machine's Name perhaps?)...being called (I think?), a..."Motor-Vac"...where, as I've heard, some time ago, this Machine/Device, might be Circulating some type of Cleaning Chemical (or, what-ever-it-just-might-be), through the Engine's..."EGR Passage-Ways"...to (Dissolve?), and get rid of, all of that/those, "Nasty, and Un-Wanted, Carbon & Carbon Chunks, that may have Accumulated in those very EGR "Passageways"..................................I almost had a GMC Dealer, do the "Motor-Vac" Procedure"...but..."They Didn't have One"...!!!...lol...so, starting from that point in time, I just Removed that EGR Valve, and, Fished around, inside those EGR Passageways, and, Removed, what-ever, that was Hidin' in there, with some, easily bendable..."Hay-Wire" (Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...Hay-Wire, was Used, Way-Before..."Duct-Tape"..was Invented...!!!...lol)............................I also made up, a Special "Screen Type of Gasket", that gets Installed between the EGR Valve, and the Mounting Surface, that it Bolts to.............................I made up "2 Gaskets", using the Old EGR Valve Gasket, as a "Template", and, I also cut, a Piece of "Stainless Steel" Screen (the Screen/Mesh, has about, the same size Grid/openings, much like a Screen, house door does), the same Shape as the Old EGR Gasket, but, With-Out the Hole in the Middle, and I placed a small Bead, of, some of that, High Temperature Silicone/in a Tube (to Prevent a Vacuum Leak), on the Outer-Most part, just inside, of the Perimeter, on the 2 faces, of those 2 facing EGR Gaskets, that I made, and Sandwiched, that, Stainless Steel Screen, between those 2 EGR Gaskets, that I made, and, that..."Custom-Anti-Carbon-Chunk-Stoppin'-Screen-Type-of-EGR-Valve-Gasket"...that I made..."Stopped All of Those, Un-Welcomed, Carbon Chunks"..."From Coming Through", ever again...!!!...lol...........................Then, as luck would have it, I couldn't even apply for a "Patent", for my "Anti-Carbon-Chunk-Stoppin'-EGR-Valve-Screen-Type-of -Gasket"...cuz...You and I, can actually..."Go Out and Buy One"...!!!...lol...as I later found out...oh well..........................Another Thing, that I'm thinkin' about, although, You were sayin', No Trouble Codes at all, is, Your Tahoe's..."Engine Coolant, Temperature Sensor"...and/or, its "Electrical Circuit", as well perhaps?..............................This "Coolant Sensor" (not the coolant sensor, for Your dashboard temperature gauge, or idiot light, as the case may be), is responsible for, Telling the On-Board Computer, when, the Temperature (for example...from, when, the Engine is Cold Started, and the Coolant is Cold), and, the Engine, and Computer as well, will be in, what's referred to as "Open Loop" (Operating Mode), and when the Coolant, oh, let's say, reaches about "140 Degrees Fahrenheit" as a ball park figure, then, the Computer should go into, what is referred to as "Closed Loop" (Operating Mode), but only while going easy on the Gas Pedal, for the most part).............................If Your Computer, stays in "Open Loop", while the Engine is up to operating temperature, and while go-in easy on the gas pedal, it will, as I see it "Run Way Too Rich, Air/Fuel Ratio-wise"...................................The Computer, will only Listen, to what the Oxygen Sensors, have to say (Output), Only when the Computer is in "Closed Loop" Operating Mode, and, in order to have the Engine, Run as Lean, Air/Fuel Ratio-wise, while just Cruzin' along, it has to have, the Information, that's being sent, from those Oxygen Sensors, or, it just ain't gonna happen...and, that's One Way, that a Fuel Injected Gasoline Engine, will Run Way Too Rich (Air/Fuel Ratio-wise).....................................Now then, about that, shall we say, "Re-Designed-Odd-Ball-Lookin'-Distributor-Cap-of-Yours"...lol................................To me, it looks like, it's Made that Way, so, all of the Spark Plug Leads/Wires, Would-Not be Crossing, all over Themselves, like the older/old school ones did, and, I believe that, each set of 4 Spark Plug Leads/Wires, on a V-8 Engine, would, shall we say..."Stay on Their Own Side of the Engine"...!!!...lol..................................I did hear, a while ago, how some High Performance (Engine) guys, and maybe Gals too, didn't like the New/Re-Designed Distributor Caps, all that much, as they were sayin', about, some of the not-so-wanted Issues, that they were havin'...just sayin' now...............As I see it "Ignition Components" (parts & pieces), can..."Never Be Too Good"...especially, when, Spark Plug "Gaps", get to be .045" (Four-tee Five Thousandths of an Inch) and LARGER...and the..."Much Higher, Secondary Voltage"...that has to Travel, Through the Vehicle's..."Secondary, High Voltage, Ignition System Circuit"...to..."Jump, that, Much LARGER, Spark Plug GAP...!!!...Yikes"...!!!...lol................If, and maybe when, You do decide to Replace Your "Distributor Cap & Rotor", try to get the Ones, with "Brass Terminals" on them, as, the Performance Folks, as well as myself, find them, to be about the Best, that can be had..............................Try to "Replace", as needed..."All of the Required Components/Parts"...as per the Factory/Manufacturers "Specified Time/Mileage/Kilometer-age Intervals"...to help, ward off, any, not needed Problems, due to lack of Maintenance, that really should be done, wether or not, the Vehicle Runs well or not, as...just like that ole Sayin', kinda says...and that sayin' is..."An Ounce of Prevention, is Worth, a Pound of Cure"...........................I'll answer Your Other Comment/Question soon...................Till Next time..............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
okay I just put a new cap and rotor plugs are good they are only8,000 miles old check them the are fine prayed water on the spark wires they are fine haven't checked the ignition module maybe it could be the culprit I have a vortex v8 5.7 in a 99 Tahoe it runs just as crappy cold as it does warm no warning lights it likes to sput and sputter hesitate for a bit but when I floor it it will get up and go there's no loss of power more like a hiccup or stumble then it resumes as normal when it does this in most cases it will shoot liquid out the tail pip the engine is very responsive though and t will easily from a dead stop get up to 70 timing has been checked and is correct im at a dead end I also got a 200 mile trip coming up id like to have it fixed before then so I don't break down it we did a tune up 8,000miles ago it was doing the same thing then only it got so bad it had a random misfire code we put new plugs in cap rotor wires she ran great nice and smooth 8,000 miles later almost every symptom is back except the random misfire code im afraid to open down to the spider injector cause then I have to buy a new gasket and if it is leaking I cant afford o replace it but some how I don't think that's the problem that injector is only 4 years old the whole intake manifold was replaced new sensors new egr new injector module new ignition new tbi new cover maintance has been done on this engine I have no idea why they did so much work to the intake manifold I think the injectors had leaked and they replaced everything to avoid having to open it back up or worry about it. I still have the old manifold with the old sensors. that Tahoe has a lot of power still just need to find why it sputters there is no smoke of any kind coming from the exhaust the more load its under sometimes it seems to smooth out and not run as rough but will still sputter.
SuperJeremi10 Greetings SuperJeremi10....About "Ignition Timing"........I find, it's always, a very good idea, to..."Check/Verify"...the..."Base Ignition Timing"...on an Any Fuel Injected Engine, when-ever an..."Ignition Related Part"...gets..."Replaced, with a New Part"...for the very reason, that, there are, what is known, as..."Manufacturing Tolerances"...pretty much meaning, that, there are, for the most part..."Small Variations"...between, any of the Parts, that..."Interchange"...with, one-another, and, these..."Sizes/Angles/etc."...might possibly, at times, make for, a..."Base, Ignition, Timing Setting"...that, can be "Out", a "Degree or More", perhaps...........................So, Always "Check/Verify", Your Engine's, "Base Ignition Timing", and, make sure, that, it's "Set", to the "Factory/Manufacturer's"..."Specifications"...to avoid, any potential Trouble....................There is another Possible "Thing", that might be causing, that, might be, "Ignition Related, Miss-Fire Problem", that Your Tahoe is having...........................It's known as..."Induction Cross-Fire"...where, it can be caused by, something as Simple, as..."Running/Routing, the Spark Plug Leads/Wires, "Parallel" (aka, side by side), and, Too Close, to each other", and, due to the High Voltage, that's Traveling Through those Leads/Wires, at times, that Very High Secondary Ignition Voltage, can actually..."Transfer"...from One Lead/Wire, into, the "Other" Lead/Wire, and, if, and when it does, the "Wrong" Spark Plug will "Fire", at the "Wrong" Time, and perhaps, the Spark Plug, that was supposed to get that "High Voltage Pulse"..."Does Not Receive It"...and..."Does Not Fire"...kinda like, shall we say, a..."Double Wham-ee"...lol...as in, One Spark Plug "Fires", when It "Shouldn't" be doing so, and the Spark Plug, that's supposed to be "Fire-ing"..."Does Not"...!!!...How You like..."Them Apples"...!!! (not to worry, as, it's...just...a figure of speech) lol.................Ever Notice, those, Spark Plug, Leads/Wires..."Separator Clips"... that are usually, made out of, what looks like Plastic, that are usually found, "Clipped" onto, the Spark Plug "Leads/Wires", on the Factory Installed..."Original"..."Leads/Wires"...at all...???...oh, and..."Guess Why"...??? (I think You get the picture)...and, I believe that "Plastic" is Used, as opposed to "Metal"...cuz...most Metals, happen to be..."Electrically Conductive"...!!!......................Another "Thing" to "Check", while You have Your Distributor Cap "Off", is to "Wiggle", the Distributor's "Rotor"..."Side to Side", in All Directions, to See, and maybe, Feel as well..."Any Excessive Side Play"...between the Distributor "Shaft", and the "Bearing/Bushing", that that Distributor "Shaft"..."Spins Inside Of"...as, if it has..."Way Too Much Running Clearance"...that, in itself, can make for some, rather..."Irregular/Not So Accurate"..."Ignition Timing"...oh, and also, quite Rarely, the, Distributor Drive "Gear", on the End of the Distributor Shaft, that Meshes with, the Camshaft Gear, might possibly, have some "Excessive Wear"...on the Gear's..."Teeth" (as in Tooth...lol), which can also, make for some, "Inaccurate", Ignition Timing as well.......................Try "Turning", the Distributor's "Rotor"...in..."Both Directions", by Hand"...and...there might be, a..."Small Amount of Movement"...but...if that "Movement", seems to be..."Way Too Much", then, that "Gear", I was just tellin' You about, could be considered, a "Suspect"..................................A "Clue", to me, if, any Timing Related, shall we say..."Near Failures", are about to, Rear Their Ugly Heads, is for me, to, "Pay Very Close Attention", to, if, and when-ever, the (Base, or, Initial..."Ignition Timing".."Changes", well, kinda "Mysteriously", and without "Reason".............Well, that's about my "2-Cents" worth for now, so, I'll see about responding to Your other comments.....................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
...note, when the metal Tip of that rotor starts to Wear, due to electrical erosion, don't be tempted to File or Sand the metal rotor Tip Clean!....Why you ask?...That's why!...lol...Nah, here's why, my Friend....When the Rotor is spinning around inside the Distributor Cap, there is actually no real Physical Contact between the two!....If one was to file or sand the rotors metal Tip, then that would "Increase" the Running Clearance or "Gap" between the Rotors Tip, making...(con't)
...now, on to the "Condensation", or build up of Moisture inside your Distributor Cap...If a Distributor Cap happens to contain any Condensation (happens when water vapor in the air gets cooled to the point where it condenses back into liquid form), that my Friend, will cause Sparks inside the distributor cap to put on a very Unwanted-High-Voltage-Spark-Show, or, in other words, Electricity Randomly Bouncing around inside the Distributor Cap, making the Engine sound Sick, or No-Start!...(con't)
...in my entire life!....Now then, there are other points that I should, and must address for all of Mankind...lol...On the Larger Rotor, keep an eye on the metal tip, where it spins, nearest the inside of the distributor caps Internal Aluminum or Brass Terminals (Uh-huh, the terminals that the spark plug wires get connected to on the top/outside of the distributor cap)....The Metal Tip will start to Erode, due to Electrical-High-Voltage-Arcing whenever the engine is running....(con't)
...Miss-Fires, and Uneven-Running, etc. ....I recall an Old-School Fix (but it's always better to Discard any Bad Distributor Caps and Questionable Components, but I'll tell you just for the fun of it....Some, used to clean the inside of the distributor cap, and "Dab, or Paint" the crack with some of that fancy stuff called "Nail Polish!"....Please, don't do this, especially if the "Better Half" catches you taking Her Nail Polish without Her Permission!...lol....(con't)
To help you even further, my Friend, I have a few Videos that will help you even more, on my UA-cam Channel....Just type...RockysRoadshow...into the UA-cam search bar....There, you will find some Videos on how to Read Spark Plugs (how well the fuel is burning in your engines cylinders), and more car stuff as well....Enjoy, and....Take care, and have a nice day.
OK, so I watch the whole video when you say later you will show how it all works and how to inspect it, yet the entire video you talk about the center spring loaded part and you never say anything about how to inspect the actual parts
Will a vehicle idle smoothly with a bad cap, then misfire only under acceleration?
***** Greetings Brian Busch....Thanks for watching, and, for Your comment/question as well...................................................While it could be possible, that, the "Distributor Cap, and/or Rotor", might be the "Culprit", that, is causing the..."Idle Smoothly"...&..."Miss-Fire under Acceleration", Scenario, that You had mentioned, there are, as I see it, quite a number of possibilities, that, are able to cause that very same "Problem/Symptom" that You indicated in Your comment.............................................................It might even be, something along the lines of, a "Fuel System" Problem, being, what is usually referred to, as a..."Lean Miss-Fire"...where-by, the actual..."Miss-Firing", has nothing to do with the "Ignition System's Performance", as, the "Spark" that is being Produced at the Spark Plug, is..."Good & Strong"...&..."Sparking" at the Correct Time, in relation to the Engines, Needs/Demands....................................................So then, this "Fuel Related"..."Miss-Firing"...is, for the most part, being caused, by, the "Air/Fuel-Ratio" being..."Too Lean"...in order to..."Support"..."Proper & Acceptable"...Combustion...with-in, each and every one, of the Engines Cylinders, at any given time............................................In the past, I've had a "Fuel Related"..."Lean Miss-Fire"...but...it was happening at..."Idle Speed"...and, it turned out to be, that, I..."Set"...the Carburetor's..."Idle Mixture Screws", a bit too..."Lean"...which in turn, actually caused my Chevy 350 Cubic Inch Engine to..."Lean Miss-Fire"...and, due to the "Lean Miss-Fire", and the..."Incomplete Combustion" that goes along with it, I can actually..."Confirm"...that..."Lean-Miss-Firing"..."Situation"...just by having a "Look-See" at my "Smog/Emission-Test-Results-Print-out", that I had handed to me, at, that there..."Smog/Emissions Testing Establishment"...!!!...(lol)..................................................Another thing that I've found, is that, a "Lean Air/Fuel Ratio" (fuel related) Problem, for me, will usually show up as a Vehicle that will start..."Surging", as in, the Vehicle will kinda, Jerk, or, Buck, back and forth, while just trying to "Maintain City Speed", on a Level Road, and keeping the Gas Pedal in a Fixed Position......................................................Now then, there is a Possibility, as I've known, for quite some time now, and, it could be another One, of Many Possibilities, and, what it happens to be, is...An "Ignition Coil"...can..."Malfunction"...while "Under Load", which is what happens when an Engine is Doin' the "Acceleration" Scenario.........................................The Above, are just a few things to be Thinkin' about, as it applies to the "Situation/Problem" that Your Engine is experiencing, but, in order to give Your Vehicle's Engine, the best chance at Running/Operating/Performing, the best that it's able to, is the following..........................................................Do a "Complete Tune-Up", and all of the Required "Maintenance Items", that Your Vehicle's Manufacturer Recommends, at the Required/Suggested Time, or, Mileage/Kilometer-age "Interval"........................................................"Lettuce" (intentional miss-spelling, to keep Your attention...lol), say for instance, that, Your..."Distributor Cap"...or the..."Rotor"...that Spins around, Inside the Distributor Cap..."Looks"..."Worn"...or..."Questionable" at all...then, just..."Re & Re" (Remove and Replace) "Both of Them", that way, all of that "High Voltage", that is "Zapping" Through the "Secondary Side" of the Ignition System, will have a much better chance, at making its way, from the Ignition Coil, and all the way to Your Engine's Spark Plugs.....................................................If You spend a few extra "Bucks" (or, what-ever Your Currency/Money happens to be), for a "Distributor Cap", that has..."Brass Terminals"...is, as I see it, a pretty good..."Improvement"...over that, of a Distributor Cap, that has "Aluminum Terminals" in/on it...........................................................Have Your Engine's "Ignition Timing "Checked" and "Set/Re-Set" if Needed...!!!....................................................Oh yeah, if and when You do happen to "Re & Re" Your "Distributor Cap", and, by doing the following, will make things go quite well, as opposed to, a "Nightmare" in the making...!!!.......................................................When-ever Removing and Replacing the Ignition System's "Wires/Leads" on, "Both" the "Distributor Cap", and the "Spark Plugs", try and "Only"..."Remove and Replace"..."Only"..."One"..."Wire/Lead" at a Time, or, if You happen to..."Remove"..."All" of the Ignition System's "Wires/Leads" at the "Same Time" (aka, All at Once), then, that there...."Nightmare"...will actually be You, having to "Figure Out"..."What-Wire/Lead Went Where"...???(Yikes!!!)...............................................Now it's Time for my, sometimes..."Over-Use"...of an "Old Saying", and that saying is, and when it's applied to just about any Part on Your Vehicle, and its Engine...is..."The Chain is Only as Strong as the Weakest Link"...!!!...................................................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
RockysRoadshow ......gulp.....gulp....gulp, ahhhh. Thanks for the reply!! Went through the entire ignition system......not it at all, the"culprit" is a weak (40psi vs.58 required) fuel pump. Gotta love a GMC van. Keep doing what you're doing....Great Job!!
***** Greetings Brian Busch....(using my best, and, not all that good..."L-Viss"...Voice Impersonation...I say)..."Thank You...Thank You Very Much".................................................."GMC" Van...???..................................................Does it happen to be a "Safari" Mini Van, equipped with a 4.3 Litre (262 Cubic Inch) V-6 Engine...???.........................................................Just to let You know, I do have a wee bit of experience, and many hours, Workin' on, both the..."Chevy Astro"...&...the "GMC Safari"...Mini Vans, that were equipped with the "OBD-1" (on board diagnostics, version 1), shall we say...Engine Management System...&...the "CMFI" (aka, Central Port Fuel Injection) System, that only has "1" Fuel Injector, and, 6 Fuel Tubes/Lines, connected to those there 6 Poppet Nozzles.............................................................If the Chevy Astro, or, the GMC Safari Mini Vans, are 1996 or Newer, and are equipped with the "OBD-2" (aka, on board diagnostics, version 2) System, and, although I haven't had one of those in Custody, to work on, I'm, pretty sure, that, I will at least, be able to provide some useful Information, on those Mini Vans as well................................................I read (pronounced Red..lol), some-where, that, if the Chevy or GMC V-6 Engine, is equipped, with a "Distributor Cap", that looks like, the One that You see in this particular UA-cam Video of mine, that, some Folks, are Saying, that, it's "Their" Experience, that, what works "Best" for Them, on this type of "V-6" Engine, is, when it comes time, to Replace the Worn-out, or Faulty "Distributor Cap", is, according to those previously mentioned Folks, is to use, a "Factory Original" Type of Distributor Cap..................................................I've had pretty good luck, using the "Standard" Brand's..."Premium"...Distributor Cap & Rotor...that has "Brass Terminals" on the Distributor Cap...but...keep a very close Eye, on that there "Carbon Button"...that's..."Hiding"...Inside that there Distributor Cap, as that...Super-Wimpy...Carbon Button...Wears away/down, quite quickly...Mileage/Kilometer-age-wise...!!!....................................................Now then, here are some "Things" to consider, as it applies to Your "GMC-what-ever-IT-happens-to-be"...???..................................................Make Sure, that, You "Change" Your "Fuel Filter" at least, once a Year (applies to a regularly driven vehicle), so that, it doesn't get so..."Plugged Up", and cause Your...Inside-the-Gas-Tank...Electric..."Fuel Pump"...to..."Burn-Out"...and Stop Working...!!!.........................................Quite some time ago, I put some Fuel Injection System "Cleaner" in my Gas Tank, and, it did such a good job, that, after a period of time, I figure that, that there Fuel System Cleaner...shall we say..."Super Cleaned"...all of the Crap/Sludge/etc., that was "Hiding Inside the Gas Tank"...and...as I see it..."Totally Clogged-Up" the "Fuel Filter"...and...the Fuel Pump, that was also Hiding Inside the Gas Tank..."Burned Itself Out, due to the "Totally Restricted"...Fuel Filter...!!!...................................................Then, it was "Tow Truck" Time, and, a very "Expensive Lesson" was Learned...never-the-less...!!!...................................................................Another thing that "You" can "Do", to "Prolong"...the..."Life"...of Your...Fuel Pump, is to, try to Remember, to "Keep" Your Gas Tank, at "Least"...1/4 (One Quarter or One Quarter of a Gas Tank)...Full, at "All Times"...!!!..................................................Why You ask...???.....................................................The..."Inside the Gas Tank Electric Fuel Pump"...will actually Run "Cooler", due to the Gasoline, that the Fuel Pump is "Immersed" (aka, surrounded by) in, where-as...as I see it...if the Gasoline "Level/Amount", in the Gas Tank, was allowed to, get to the point of being Close to Empty, and, the Ambient Temperature, where the vehicle was being driven was quite "Hot" (think in terms of Desert Heat), then, as I see it, that Very "Hard Working"...Little..."High Pressure"..."Fuel Pump"...would probably be getting, quite a bit "Hotter", in a "Near Empty" Gas Tank...as "Opposed" to....a Gas Tank, that was "Always" kept, at "Least"..."1/4-Full"...and, here I go again..."More" then "1/4-Full"...is even..."Better"...!!!................................................If You like, just let me know, what Your "Ride" (aka, Vehicle) happens to be, and, I'll do what I can, to help You out....................................................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
RockysRoadshow it's actually a 2000 GMC Savana 1500 5.0 Vortec 130k miles on it. This happened 15k miles ago..changed the cap, rotor, plugs, wires....fixed the no start issue. I left work, wouldn't get above 60..no overdrive, rounded a corner, wouldn't get above 40. Now it's a no start, except with starting fluid, still won't get above 40. Can showed P0308 & bad O2 sensor. Changed rotor, plugs, tps, battery, fuel filter. Tested cap, wires & coil...all good. Testing the fuel pressure again today with a better gauge (never buy a cheapo). Bogs bad under acceleration, idles smooth though. Will let you know what I find out.
.....elvis reverse punch followed by a karate kick....
***** this is my work vehicle...makes me money....I keep up on the maintenance religiously (I'm a preventative maintenance technician).....synthetic oil changes, Lucas Oil products, Berrymans Chem-Tool, etc.
"new and improved" usually sucks. If it works dont fix it.
journeyquest1 Greetings journeyquest1....Thanks for watching, and for Your comment as well..........................................When it comes to, like You were sayin'..."New and Improved"...I would probably be placing, this particular..."Distributor Cap & Rotor"...on, the..."Top Ten List"...of what should be, as I see it..."Improved" (as, if and when, an Improved "One" is acquired, it will probably be "New")................................................The.."Size"...and..."Wimpy-ness"...Design, of this particular..."Distributor Cap & Rotor"..."Might"...have been..."Acceptable"...for the older..."Point & Condenser"...type of..."Distributor"...along with an Ignition Coil, that had a Ballast Resistor in its Ignition Circuit, that had Spark Plug "Gaps", of about..."Only .035" (thirty-five thousandths of an inch), that..."Did-Not"...need as much, Ignition Coil..."Secondary High Voltage"...as compared to, that of which, is put through this particular "One", that has to Supply, a..."Much Higher Secondary Voltage"...in order for the..."Spark"...to..."Jump the .045" (fourty-five thousandths of an inch) Spark Plug GAP"...that is part of this particular, shall we say..."High Energy Ignition"...System/Circuit...!!!..................................................All a Person has to do, is, have a look-see, at the good ole..."HEI" (High Energy Ignition) Distributor, that was usually found, beginning, oh, around 1975, that was Installed in most..."V-8 Engines", and, You'll notice, just..."How Large" (in Diameter & Height), that, that particular Distributor Cap (& Rotor)..."Actually Is"...!!!.................................................Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...as I see it (probably along with many Others, as well), is that, seeing as how, the..."Larger the Spark Plug Gap"..."Is"...the..."Higher"...the Ignition Coil's..."Secondary High Voltage"...has to be, in order to, shall we say..."Jump that Much Larger Spark Plug Gap".....................................................I have found that, just about any time, that the Spark Plugs..."Gaps"...get any..."Larger"..then .035" (thirty-five thousandths of an inch), then, the Parts and Pieces, that are part of the..."Secondary, High Voltage Side"...of the Vehicle's Ignition System, are subjected to, a Much Higher Rate of, shall I say...Higher Secondary Voltage..."BREAK-DOWN"................................................That's where I'm finding, especially on the Ignition System, that the Distributor Cap & Rotor, that is seen in this particular video of mine, is Included in, that, the Distributor Cap & Rotor, are basically a Joke, in as far as its Design and Wimpy-ness, for something, that's tryin' to be, a wanna-be..."High Energy Ignition System"...that's supposed to be able to with-stand, the..."Amount of, High Secondary Voltage" (that's coming out of the ignition coil's secondary side), that's needed, in order to make that..."Spark, Across, that Increased Spark Plug Gap"...!!!.................................................That..."small"...spring loaded Carbon Button, is way too..."small"..........................................The Rotor, that goes along with it, is something that I'd expect to find in a..."Dollar Store"...and..."Not"...something that an..."Automotive Engineer/Designer"...would be proud of, being responsible for......................................................About the only thing that I came across so far, as it applies to, a, shall we say..."Improved Distributor Cap" (like the One in this Video), happens to be, along the lines of..."Brass Terminals" (as opposed to just be-in' Aluminum), and probably...(keeping fingers crossed)..."Improved Material"...that, both, the..."Distributor Cap"...and the..."Rotor"...are made out of.......................................................About the..."Only Way"...as I see it, that this..."Lack-Luster"...wanna-be...High Energy..."Distributor Cap & Rotor"...will be able to..."Last, a reasonable amount of time"...would be, and I might just give it a try as well, would be to..."Reduce the Spark Plug Gaps"...from...".045" to .035"..."..........................................Even the..."Spark Plug Wires/Leads"...didn't do a very good job, at standing up to the "Secondary High Voltage"...that was required to..."Create a Spark"...between, the..."Spark Plug's .045" Gaps"..........................................Hmmmmm...if it wasn't for this Engine's Computer System...I would probably Install a..."Points & Condenser Distributor"...Ignition System in "It"...as, over quite a few years...that was..."Something that I could Depend On"...on a regular basis.................................................So then, there You have it, for the time being....................................................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
You talk too much get to the important parts