Complete Kitchen Remodel V.2 - Floor Joist Repair
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- Опубліковано 6 лют 2025
- This is video number 2 of a complete - COMPLETE - kitchen remodel. This video series will include demo (this video), floor joist repair/replacement, sub-floor install, cement board under lament install, tile, electrical, drywall, paint, cabinet install, new counter tops, and finally all finish carpentry = job done!
In this video we complete the demo of the old floor and complete the repair of badly damaged floor joist…all of this in prep for subfloor install in video 3 of this series.
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You are the ONLY guy that has ever mentioned the size drill bit they use for corresponding carriage bolt. Amazing lol
I puased the video and stared at the framing repair shots for a half hour. Just beautiful work. Just beautiful.
Howdy Michael Block! Thanks for the great compliment!!! Glad you enjoyed the video. Hope to see you as a sub - tons of cool work to come as we begin the renovation of a 200 year old brick farmhouse. ☘️
To avoid squeaks, add some construction glue between old and new joist
I’ve been renovating older houses for a long time, and I’ve yet to see a floor from circa 1930 have a level enough joists to sister up! You guys must hav go really lucky here. I’ve had to start with fresh lumber and a laser every time.
*have got
My dad and I are replacing some in a house he just bought to sell to me. Pretty easy, besides knocking out the older ones. Takes some time plus pretty messy haha. But we placed a tarp under us so we can just pull the tarp out and not have a huge mess under the house.
Finally explained exactly how I needed to fill in the cut outs, much appreciated
Howdy Dopeboi Lee! Glad the video was helpful…thanks for the comment!!! ☘️
It looks like you're sistering the old joists with new joists of the same dimension. Why did you keep any of the old joists, as opposed to just replacing them entirely? Was it just to make the floor stronger than it was previously?
For future reference, I really like the Simpson SDS 3" structure screws for sistering. You don't need to waste time pre-drilling, and the screw is designed (no threads near the top) to pull the boards tight. They aren't cheap, but they're probably cheaper than the total cost of a carriage bolt, washer, and nut, and definitely worth it for the time savings.
Howdy bnasty267! That's a great tip....thanks!
It looks like you are setting the new, un-PT joist right on masonry with no barrier between. Maybe the new joists are PT and I just missed that part. Also, old vinyl/linoleum often contained asbestos. Be safe, send samples off for testing before cutting through old linoleum.
Great video. Really appreciate the detailed explanations along the way. You never know what you’re going to find below a subfloor. Nice to know there are remedies that are doable for the DIYers out there!
Howdy Keoki! Thanks for checking out the video - glad you enjoyed it! Good luck on your next project…let me know if you have any questions. ☘️
I really like and appreciate the way you repaired and secured the joists. 😊
Thanks!
Simple straight to the point is all. Thank you.
Howdy Blocrose! Glad you liked the video and thanks for the comment. Good luck with your project! ☘️
I just bought a 100 year old house. It has a really nice hard wood floor that still is in good shape. I need to do some floor leveling. Not sure if the joists will be that bad but the is the video I've been looking for for a long time. Great video and thanks a bunch for sharing.
Howdy elige brown! Great!!! So glad this video will be helpful in your restoration of your new old house. Good luck! I recently bought an old house also that needs quite a bit of restoration...you may find some of my restoration project videos helpful as well. Hope to see you as a sub! ☘️
How long did it take just to get that initial demo done.. getting to the joists underneath subfloor. nice video.. thanks for sharing!
Thanks for checking out the video! It took three guys about 6 hours to complete the demo, pull all the old nails, clean up and put all the debris in the dumpster….so about 18 man hours.
Thank you for this direct and to the point video. I will be doing exactly what you showed. Regarding the mold issues others have mentioned, bleach only kills mold on non porous items. It does not penetrate the wood and does not reach the root of the mold behind the wood. It grows back because it was never killed to begin with. I've read Concrobium products are good and Biocide products as well. Both have good mold foggers to kill the aurborne mold spores and to do the same in hvac systems. I've also read that spraying the wood with peroxide gets to the root. Leave on for 15 min then wipe off. Then some followup with pure white vinegar, leave on for an hour then wipe off. It didn't seem you used joist hangars because you had a solid brick base. I guess those hangars are only needed if the house is jacked up on periodic cinder blocks? Or is toenailing still acceptable in places of joists?
04:00 When you had to put a new joist across the full span and cut out a chunk of the old one, why did you sister the old and new instead of ripping the whole old joust out?
Howdy Andrew Cox! Good question - I should have mentioned this in the video...this is a relatively small house and the joists under the kitchen floor run all the way to the front of the house (under the dining room). I wanted to ensure the dining room floor remained true, so I took the extra time to sister all the joists that needed repair. My concern was that if I cut the joist off mid span, it could lead to some issues with the dining room floor later. It would have been easier to cut and replace the kitchen floor joists, but I wanted to play it safe and tie the two floor together - as it was initially built 75 years ago. Thanks for the question...hope to see you as a sub! ☘️
So can I just take like 5ft back with new joists? The rot on my floor was 3 ft long on each. I was gonna cut 5 foot and sister them up and put support under where I sister it in.
I did work similar to this on my parent house...me and my step day spent 2 year ripping out rotten wood that termites had eaten up in the 60 and 70s
Nice work. I have a lot of trouble with termites so I’d have used pressure treated lumber (or at least soaked the joist ends in copper solution) and tried to install a metal termite shield where I could.
Get the house termite treated and if you are in a very termite active area get traps put in the ground outside your house
How cute. At the beginning of this video the "heart" made of sweat on the t shirt!
Tidy job!! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the video! You mention tile on plywoood is bad - what is the right way - are you talking about cement board? For a bathroom, I think they put that orange dykstra(sp) - curuious about kitchens.
Howdy boe dillard! Yes - installing tile directly onto any wood surface is NOT advised. Simple reason is that wood moves with changes in temperature and humidity. As the wood expands and contracts the tile or stone will eventually pop loose. You need to have something that separates (de-couples) the tile/stone from the wood subfloor; like cement board or the orange membrane you mentioned - which is a Schluter-Ditra product.
Here is the link:
www.schluter.com/schluter-us/en_US/
I have not used The Schluter membrane yet. It is both a de-coupling membrane and a waterproofing membrane in one. I still prefer to use the cement board with a paint on waterproofer like RedGard. Some of the real ol’timer tile setters would use old laminate flooring as a ‘slip sheet’ to separate the tile from the wood subfloor. Hope this answers your question. Thanks for checking out the video and good luck on your project! ☘️
@@DoAndBrewDIY Thanks very much for the excellent response!
Would using 3/4" plywood glued and screwed work just as well for 2x8 floor joist with a 14' span on 12" centers? Or wood blocking with 2x8s do the same for a bouncey floor?
New Subscriber, great video. It was just what I needed and straight to the point!
Howdy pinkdreamer04! Thanks very much for the great comment and for subscribing!!! Glad the video was helpful...let me know if you have any questions...I am here to help! ☘️
Will the blocking on the end of the joists take the place structurally, of the rotted out rim joist?
No … intended to ensure proper spacing and to keep the floor joists true.
What happens if you don't remove those sections of joists with rot damage? ie. simply sistering in long lengths of new joists beside the old? Will the rot spread to the new joists even if the moisture damage happened years before and all areas appear dry now?
Would glue between the joists make it even stronger?
this look very familiar... just got done doing something very similar in my 1950 home
The videos are great. I notice that the floor joist was placed directly on the foundation instead of on top of a sill plate. Do you not need the plate?
Howdy Albert Thompson! We installed new joists in the same way the old joists were set in place. Installation of a sill plate would necessitate a smaller joist. Thanks for the comment and for checking out Do & Brew! ☘️
@@DoAndBrewDIY ok... live in a 1950s home and im looking to fix a terribly squeaky floor. The problem aeem to stem from joist work that was poorly completely. It would seem they cut the joist and spliced it with whatever was around. So now I need to sure up the floor jiost then do the floor...I think.
Howdy Albert Thompson! Usually the squeak comes from the subfloor components rubbing together or a loose nail moving in and out of the joist.
Thank you
Great video! I will be getting my kitchen floor repair due to water damage soon and was wondering if I need to treat for mold. We have fixed the source of the leak. I know you cut out the rotten part but can I spray the affected areas with some sort of treatment for any mold or fungal infection? Thank you!
Howdy Juhee Ha! Mold is tricky. Honestly, if you are concerned about mold, the best advice I can give you is to contact a professional mold remediation company. You can spray with breach or ammonia and try to scrub it away - but you are dealing with a microscopic enemy; can you ever be sure to get it all? I have used bleach OR ammonia with varying degrees of success. (NEVER MIX BLEACH AND AMMONIA!). I recently read an article that in some cases when bleach is applied, the mold will retreat out of site, but come back stronger later - even feeding off the bleach! So, if you have a serious mold problem or you are sensitive to mold, it might be best to contact the pros. Thanks for watching and good luck on your project! ☘️
@@DoAndBrewDIY Thank you! I appreciate the detailed info and concern.
Question, why sister over replacement if the joists, i understand in some cases it's easier to sister. Could you have not replaced these joists instead?
Howdy Dado Molina! Thanks for the question.....I have received this same question a few times - I should have explained it better in the video. The original floor joists are very long and partially extended under the dining room to support that floor. I could not simply remove the old joists without impacting the dining room floor also. So sistering was my best option. Thanks again for the question....hope to see you as a sub! ☘️
@@DoAndBrewDIY ok thank you, i asked because i am redoing my house that was built in 1960 and some of the joists are rotted due to a leaking roof i can replace the whole joist and was wondering. Thanks for your reply... Great work too I'm learning from watching you remodel.
Thanks Dado Molina! Let me know if you have any more questions. Good luck on your project! ☘️
Do And Brew - DIY are the carriage bolts required? I’ve only seen people use screws in the past
@@josephdaoud5868 deck screws lack sheer strength and can break under live load movement. This is a kitchen where heavy appliances will be moved in and out over the years in addition to a lot of foot traffic. The carriage bolts also tighten up the sistered joists to help eliminate movement between them. This is very important if installing tiled flooring
Looks fun, house rim joist rotten to should be fixed, check outside for water penetration.
why do the "sistering" if you have the possibility to remove the old joist and replace it ?
sistering is used to frame an opening or increase the strength for structural reasons...this floor doesn't require either, so just tear out the old and replace with the new....
No you definitely have to sister the new joists into the old joist of you aren’t replacing the entire joist…
Great job on the joists.
Howdy binarybox! Thanks very much!!! ☘️
Hi great job on that subfloor no doubt!
The only problem I saw has to fo with pluming, the way you added on that joist against the brick wall where the water kitchen pipes are, if a plumber needs to replace those lines that will be tough to do. I didn’t get that part? Thx
Howdy ROCKY'S AUTO SALES! In this case the homeowner did not want to replace the old, thick walled copper with modern, thin, Chinese copper. If there is a problem in the future, the repair/replacement will be with pex. Thanks for watching! ☘️
Do And Brew - DIY
Got it, thx for taking the time and explaining. Ur welcome
My joists are in perfect shape with no rot, just really uneven subfloor boards
Can I use a 2x4 to sister a 2x6 when the 2x6 is in perfect condition "no rot,cracks,holes etc"
Howdy Manuel! I sister the same material to each other….so I would use a 2x6. The price difference is not that much and you’ll know the job is done right. Thanks for checking out the video…let me know if you have any more questions. Good luck with your project! ☘️
@@DoAndBrewDIY It's commonsense to add 2x6 but my Issue is 2x6 will not fit to get in the crawl space only 2x4. That why I ask if It'll be alright :) {Its not an open floor}
Any reason what not use adhesive between the old and new joists?
Outstanding
The walls where the plumbing was looked pretty bad why wasn't that demoed as well?
Thanks for the video, I have a bathroom and a kitchen I need to tear down to the joists 😩
Howdy Toefoo100! The structural members of the wall were in good shape. Yes they are old and have some stains, but that doesn’t mean rotten or un sound. If the wood is still hard and sturdy...no need to replace. Thanks for the comment/question. Good luck on your project! ☘️
@@DoAndBrewDIY In a video it's pretty difficult to tell between just a stain and rot. Thanks!
How do I remove my sub floor if my ex owner pour concrete on top on plywood?
Thank you sir
How come there isn't a wooden header or sill plate under those joists? How would you have gone about replacing floor joists and header with the wall resting on a header? This is the task ahead of me come spring.
I have the same problem I think. You will need to remove any pipe at floor level. Do 1 wall at a time. Leave the studs or replace the bad ones if needed. Cut out the old one and cut the holes you need for pipes and slide it in. Make sure to use those metal joists deals to connect the studs. Sorry cant remember what they're called. I'm not a professional but that's how I'm doing it.
I have some joists that were previously termite damaged. Only 2-3 feet areas of the joist are bad, most are still solid. How do you know when you need to use a hydraulic lift to fix floor joists? And can I leave the damaged joist in place and just run a sister joist alongside it and secure it in place with the portion of joist that is still good? Thanks!
Howdy Daniel Rainey! Thanks for the question! You should remove all of the damaged wood then sister to the remaining joist. Use a hydraulic jack to raise/support the floors/walls if they will continue to carry the load during the repair. Jacks, lifts or temporary supports were not required for the floor in the video since they carry no load and it was a complete rebuild. Know the impact of what you’re cutting before the first cut!!! Thanks for watching! ☘️
I'm repairing the same problem as show on this video. The biggest problem is that the sill plate/bottom plate that's holding the wall stud. The dimension of the old 2x4 lumber is 1-3/4 x 3-3/4 vs new 1-1/2 x 3-1/4. how do you make up the differences. The house was build in 1941 and I'm new at this. Thank you
Howdy Notch it! I would use treated 4x6s and rip them down to the dimensions you need - I have done that before. Might seem wasteful, but the alternative will be to have the wood custom cut at a mill...do-able, but expensive. Thanks for watching the video...let me know if you have any more questions. Good luck! 🍀
@@DoAndBrewDIY Ok thanks. I will check with my local lumber suppler and hope they can rip me few pieces.
Nice! Thanks for sharing - Sir!
So after you put the 2 carrier bolts on both ends, when you install them through the entire run, do you stagger the bolts or just put them in the center?
Howdy Michael! Great question. After you secure the ends you should install through bolts across the top and bottom spaced 12” apart .... the top and bottom should be offset by 6”.... so the result will be a zigzag pattern. Hope this helps! ☘️
I have watched many a video where people say, it was done like this in the day and we no longer do it like that. Now for my question. Why do many if not all contractors glue and screw subfloor? Won't it be almost impossible to rip up old floor the next time it is in need of repair? It is not like the old days where they nailed and the nails pop up with time. Many are using screws which hold much tighter than nails... I am just thinking out loud and would like your thoughts on the subject... Sp I expect to hear, some time in the future, that glueing and screwing was the way they were doing it in the day, but it was overkill...
I've heard glueing helps in reducing squeaking in the floors
What kind of boards did you use i have 2 floor joists in my kitchen that are cracked. Im trying to find floor joists but can only find I-joists any help would be extremely appreciative
Howdy KingHD! Most standard floor joists are made of 2x material. The joists that I am installing are 2x10s...this type of wood is always available at Lowe’s or Home Depot. Let me know if you have any more questions. Good luck on your project!!! ☘️
@@DoAndBrewDIY Thank you for the reply i appreciate it 😁 love the videos btw keep em coming. If i run into anything else that im not sure of ill be sure to ask you i have an entire house from the 40s to remodel so im learning as i go
How long does such a project as this one normally take and hot much does it cost? Thanks
Howdy Minh Cao! This project took about 6 weeks and cost about $18,000. The largest costs being cabinets, granite and appliances. Thanks for watching the video! ☘️
@@DoAndBrewDIY Thanks a lot for the great vio.
I saw the outter board was rotted to why not replace that ? I have to replace a pretty big section of the outter board and don’t know what it’s called and looks difficult
Howdy Cloud Ryse! That “skirt board” was in good shape, as were all structural members of the wall. Yes it (they) are old and have some stains, but that doesn’t mean rotten or unsound. If the wood is still hard and sturdy...no need to replace. Thanks for the comment/question. Good luck on your project! ☘️
Nice work guys 👍, looking forward to seeing the next vids.
Howdy fencerider !!! Glad you liked this episode ... more coming soon!
The joist tails look nice but they offer very little structurally.
Frigging awesome... Looks like I'll be doing this after Thanksgiving. You did an awesome job won't have to fix that again for another 100 years... Subscribing as soon as I hit the send button... Thanks guys
Howdy Robert Farquhar!!! Thanks very much! Glad you liked the video and hope it will help you complete your project. Thanks very much for subscribing and welcome to Do & Brew. If you’re doing a whole kitchen remodel from the joists up, I hope you have found my other videos in this series...11 posted so far and there will be 14 total. Let me know if you have any questions as you begin your project. Good luck and thanks again! ☘️
Great Video! We just bought a 1950's house... did you put down any vapor barrier before putting the subfloor back on top?
Howdy Kamber!... thanks for the comment. No - we did not install a vapor barrier. The terrain around the house slope away and drains nicely ... plus there is good ventilation throughout the crawl space. The damage to the floor and joist was due to plumbing leaks that went unchecked for many years ... no indication of a damp crawl space problem. CONGRATS on the purchase of your ‘new’ home! Let me know if you have any renovation questions. Hope to see you as a sub!!! ☘️
Was the reason for that much rot due to there been no cross ventilation on the floor? It looked like there was no ventilation anyway. Great video.
Nice work
Howdy Alberto Figueroa! Thanks very much! Hope to see you as a sub...many more projects to come!!! ☘️
Hi, Do and Brew. Should the sister joist span between two load bearing beams? Like a header and girder?
Howdy Chris Jones! That is preferable if you have access to both. If not, anchoring on one side is acceptable, but run your sister at least 2/3 of the unsupported span and through bolt every 12-18 inches. Check to see what your local building code requirements are - if any. Let me know if you have any more questions. Good luck!!! 🍀
If your joist is partially rotted, maybe to 3 inches of a 8 inch joist, can you just cut the bad part out and leave the remaining there?
I don't get why some one want to leave any old joist there wood isn't so expensive. I would rather replace all of them with LVL-joist to get more sturdy floor.
No. Certainly not in those proportions. This is also the reason there are strict limitations on the size and placement for holes in joists and rafters for plumbing or electric chase.
Nice worm drive..
Q: I have a 71 y.o. house, the 2x8" joists (in my kitchen area about 10' x 12' which is over a basement) are not rotted at all and only a few sag about 1/4" lower than the others. I just cut out the 3/4" pine sub-floor because I want to install tile thus need the floor to be stiff (going to use 3/4" Advantech OSB glued and screwed + 1/2" Hardie backer boards, than the tiles). At first I thought all I need to do is replace the pine cross braces with strong steel versions, but now I think that will only keep the floor from feeling bouncy and not really add much to the load bearing ability.
Now my concern is that the 2x8" floor joists are going to sag over time due to the added weight of a tile, then they'll crack. Is sistering the joists the only way to add strength? Do I really need to add strength if the original joists are in good condition?
Howdy zzubuzz! Since you have the subfloor up, I would sister in 2x8 or 2x10 to the sagging joists. I would use joists that long enough to be supported on both ends, then through bolt to connect (sister) the new joist to the old. This will help to remove the sag and add strength to your floor. Good luck and let me know if you have any more questions. ☘️
Does something like this require a permit? Great video, thanks for posting it.
Good video but I would have gotten rid of all the old wood and used treated that little bit of mold left will spread in time.
Thanks Pete…local code prohibits the use of PT lumber indoors - except for sill plates. Thanks for checking out the video! ☘️
that is extra work and screws...
can you double up 2x6s the same way or can you just use nails??
Howdy Arturo S! Yes - you can sister 2x6s...you can nail to hold everything together, but it is best to through bolt. Thanks for watching and for the question! ☘️
I would have installed new water lines down in the “basement”. That would be a bummer with a leak in a few years.
Great video. Thanks for posting.
Howdy Zachary Collier! Thanks very much!
Beginner here. I notice that your joists align with your wall studs, is this standard? Thanks for the video!
It’s something you want to try and do. Studs land on joists and rafters land on studs. It’s good practice and transfers the load better.
Was cutting out the old joist necessary? I have seen many joist sistered to the old joist.
Howdy Dame Cook! I think that cutting the old, rotten wood out/off is the right thing to do. Rotten wood is spongey, tends to hold water and is a great place for mold and insects to live. I would not want to leave that directly next to, and in contact with, the new joist. Thanks for the question...hope to see you as a sub!
Do And Brew - DIY i agree its a much much stronger structure doing it that way.
But glad ur tech in him hope he can take business over someday
May I know how you installed the blocking around the perimeter between your joists? What type of fasteners? Great content btw!
Howdy Lorenzo B! Thanks for watching and for the question! The blocking was cut to length to ensure consistent spacing of the joists and secured with galvanized framing nails. Let me know if you have any more questions. ☘️
Nails are better for joist because they don’t broke like the screws the nail you can bend over and over and doesn’t broke but the screws are bad for estructural use
Howdy William! Thanks for checking out the video. Agree….but screw are intended to hold the joist until you through bolt with a carriage bolt … screws are easier than nails in the tight joist cavity. ☘️
I have a question, what if open a small or a big hole in the tubes that are placed under the floor? By the way, very nice job!
Any reason you wouldn’t use treated lumber for joist repairs?
Howdy Joseph Jung! There is no structural reason why not...in fact it would be better. However, there IS a code restriction in my state to using treated lumber inside a house. That is why I didn’t use treated lumber here. (I also have a deck restoration video where I do use treated lumber to sister/repair damaged joists.). Thanks for the question!!! ☘️
@@DoAndBrewDIY Is the underside of the floor inside the house?
Skill Builder ... it’s a brick foundation with unimproved crawl space. ☘️
Very nice work
Howdy FloorsbySouthernboys !!! Thanks very much!!!
Replace copper with pex while floor is open
How did you secure the new joist to the outer wall at 3:14? I noticed the two nails that were keeping d joist in place. Did you cut them off?
Howdy Umut Esen! Good question...I should have covered that better. I installed blocking at the ends at 7:50. This blocking ensures consistent joist spacing - and because it extends across the entire run of joists, there is no way for the joists to move. Thanks for the question and for checking out the video! ☘️
Quick question, are you using pressure treated??
Howdy Raised ByWolves! No...you might think that pressure treated wood would be the best option, but it’s not advisable to use treated wood inside a home because it can off gas the treatment chemicals for many years. Thanks for the good question! ☘️
@@DoAndBrewDIY
Actually the logic in using PTL in a "finished" basement is flawed. I wouldn't advise putting PTL in living spaces "ie finished basements" although PTL is used as a sill but that basement is not even a crawl space. The only purpose of the preservative is to prevent rot and insect infestation and I think that basement fits the bill.
It is generally accepted that the most risk from PT wood is in the construction phase where fine arsenic laced sawdust is easily inhaled or comes in contact with the skin. Although on another topic many of the plastics and paints that we have indoors, food containers included tend to off gas . I would never used spray foam to insulate a house either, that's a ticking time bomb.
i would change that old copper pipes
Are you going to park a tank in the kitchen?
Howdy Stroker Ace! Ha! Nope, but job done right....should last another 80 years! Thanks for watching! ☘️
Good job can I bang a load of 3"1/2 nails in with my nail gun instead of screws and then bolt it if so what pattern.Die I mean DIY me is
how old is the plumbing.....maybe modernize
Howdy@@tw3235 - well…maybe, but I would suggest that 60 year old copper with no problems is probably better (and will outlast) modern day copper. Also, where do you STOP with plumbing upgrades…does a kitchen remodel turn into a full whole house renno…tearing out floors, walls, ceilings to upgrade the plumbing throughout. Best of luck with your project! ☘️
@@DoAndBrewDIY Ya tha's the issure, copper 60 yrs old and I would bet the wall thickness is half from orginal. If and when it leaks it off comes the floor once more and if goes on noticed for yeqr....."rot" once more.
@@tw3235 Don’t mean to be a jerk, but I must ask…how often do you re-plumb your entire house. I don’t know of any one that buys a house built in the 1970s and tears out all the plumbing before they move in. Have you done that before? Most everyone deals with problems as they arise….i think.
@@DoAndBrewDIY 60yrs old would be a good indicator. The cost of replacing that portion of pipe is much cheaper then later dwn the road repair. BYE
Is this fix approved by a structural engineer or a city inspector?
This is a centuries old technique to repair the support structure of a floor. It is allowed in my state. You should verify with your local building codes. ☘️
joints would benefit if seats on DPM
Howdy Mike larry! A Damp Proof Membrane is typically used as a barrier between a finished wood floor and a moisture wicking subfloor such as a concrete slab. This floor is reconstructed over a crawl space. The rot in the floor joists was caused by numerous - on going - sink and dishwasher leaks over many years...not from ambient moisture in the crawl space. Thanks for the question...hope to see you as a sub! ☘️
How far apart are your single carriage bolts?
Howdy Charles Richardson! The carriage bolts are approximately 8 to 10 inches on center. Not all sistering methods include carriage bolts - some folks think it’s overkill - but we only have one shot to get it right and I prefer the added security through bolting provides.
Thanks for the question and for checking out the video! Let me know if you have any more questions. ☘️
You should if used a pressure treated plate on top of that concrete wall. Concrete should never touch untreated wood
You say don't have sheets finishing the same when putting down the floor boards...Why would this matter?
Howdy David Patheyjohns! It makes for a weaker joint. So you should avoid having four corners together at the same point. Thanks for the question...let me know if you have more questions. Good luck with your project! ☘️
Thanks this was very helpful. I have a similar rotting joist on my A-Frame. I am wondering, since there was water damage that deteriorated the wood, wouldn't you want to apply a wood protector on the new joists, to 'seal' out any moisture situation?
Howdy Janet Stone! Good question...it wouldn’t hurt to apply a sealer to protect the wood from possible future damage. However, identifying the source of the water leak and preventing the water from contacting the wood is the best course of action. In this case, the culprits were a leaky sink drain and a leaking dishwasher. Since we knew we’d be eliminating those problems during this project we did not see a need to apply a sealer to the wood.
Thanks for the great comment and question - and thanks for subscribing to Do & Brew! Good luck on your project and let me know if you have any more questions. ☘️
How much did it cost for material since ya are doing it ya selfs, I thinking of replacing my kitchen subfloor
Material is probably about 300 bucks. Add 600 more if you need to by hand tools + the kinda of saw he was using. Get some friends together to help and order pizza and knock it out in a day depending how big the room is.
Triple what it was after Covid shortages.
Do you even need a jack with this method?
Howdy Ugo Okafori! Great question - a jack is usually not required because the majority of the weight is off the joists. However, as with these joists that extend under the dining room on the other side of the house, you may need a little extra lift to get the joist to level. Usually a helper can hold the joist level as you sister the new joist to the old...if necessary, a jack could hold everything level as you get the new joist installed.
Thanks for the question and for checking out the video! ☘️
mashallah, good job, learnt alot
Thanks Mohammed!!! Glad the video was helpful! ☘️
Very cool, subscribed! I’m doing something similar soon and this helps a lot.
Howdy John Vance! Thanks for watching and glad the video is helpful! Good luck on your project. Let me know if you have any questions. Thanks for subscribing!!! ☘️
Great video.
Howdy Diane Vessels! Thanks very much - glad you like the video!!!
Nice!
Sir, looking for volume 3... can’t seem to find it???
Howdy MILKMANDELIVERIES !!! Thanks for watching the kitchen remodel series! I had to pull volume 3 off line to correct some information to ensure I put out the best advice possible....I will repost in a few days and will let you know when I do.
Do And Brew - DIY please let us know, your videos seem perfect for what we need to do with our kitchen :) Thank you!
Howdy violet roses! Thanks very much...glad these video are helpful. I will get this video uploaded by Friday at the latest. Sorry for the trouble, but it is important that I put out the best/safest information for you to complete your project.
Thanks again for watching Do & Brew! ☘️
Howdy All ... video 3 is reposted .... let me know if you have any questions. Good luck! 🍀
Thanks Do and Brew! Great info. Do you happen to have a video on replacing rotted bottom plate of a load bearing wall?
It's so sad to see the sparks when your saw hits nails.
Bravo 👏
Great video!! I have a sagging house. I need to jack a house up in the center then sister a few joints. Any recommendations ?>
Howdy David Surowiec! Just make sure the points where you are jacking up the house to support/re-level the structure are on a strong/proper footing. Without that, anything you do will only be temporary. Good luck! 🍀
Thank you partner! My plan is to jack the house in 3 different spots and add steel plates on top of the original lally Columns. Then lower the jacks so the weight of the house rests on the original lally columns with the metal plates. Also I’ll use the extra adjustable jack posts for extra support! (Half a turn a week) and that saves me roughly 20k
I also recommend glue the old joists to the new ones.