Time to install the water tank but a fair bit needs to be done before that. I also can start preparing certain elements of the engine for launch  #water #tank #diy
It's a breather pipe, James. When the lid is on, it allows air in, to replace the water you are removing. If you vent it to outside, you'll need a bug screen to keep critters out.
I think that the overflow is also made as a venting pipe. Because if you don't have one you get a vacuum inside the tank, when you open the tap to get water out.. (sorry for my English)... Greetings from Holland.
Hi James. Love your videos.. your tank needs a breather. So air can get into the tank. As you use the water inside of it.What about a non return valve on your breather. To prevent any contamination. Of your drinking water. You were right by saying. It should go out through the Hull. So into the cut. If that not possible it needs to be quite a bit higher than the filler. Which I know is far easier said than done. Keep up the great work. Will be interested to see your solution to this problem. Just an after thought. Can you reduce the size of the pipe and run it up inside the boat hidden behind the bulkhead. With a vent. So air can enter in through it. So you cut out the insulation. Not sure if that makes sense. All the best Pat.
I would have cut a square in the board under the drain pipe on the tank - to have room to work on the plumbing fittings. Just be sure to have a screen filter on the vent/drain pipe that exhausts out the side. Check it as those things can clog up. Enjoy the video's - what a great project. As one mentioned - secure the water tank - if you happen to hit something solid that is a lot of weight to keep from moving.
That is an odd place for a water filler! Usually we instal them on the gunnels up high so as not to allow any contaminates to enter the tank from that lower level floor where your filler is located now. After you secure the tank you could also inject some expanding foam under the unsupported ends after you put some water in the tank to offset the lifting action of the foam.
You mentioned a few videos that your friend will have to sleep on the floor - can't you get a folding cot for a temp bed, that you can put out of the way while you're working?
I believe that other tank connection is an air admittance valve, necessary for when you are draining the tank ie in daily use. Mine had the valve internal to the boat, which was fine except one time when filling the tank instead of just dangling a loose hose end, I jammed a snug fitting into the fill. Result was water ended up pouring out of the air admittance valve, into the boat. So my advise would be to site that externally but it should be a valve rather than just an opening, for the sake of hygiene I think.
Your 2nd outlet is to let the air escape, once the tank is full it will overflow from the inlet. The 2nd outlet stays inside the boat, think about it, water will never get any higher than the top of the tank. Keep up the good work James, Kevin
A good collision with a full water tank is likely to move the tank unless very well restrained. I'd advocate fill around void to sides and front with more foam to both cushion and insulate. Fit infill packing restraints between rear of tank and bulkhead. Right hand fitting is a VENT/Breather should run up to a high point INSIDE boat to minimise potential leakage points with unnecessary hull and superstructure penetrations. The left side Filler is ALSO the overflow when filling and using even a small amount of water will preclude any thermal expansion overflow occurring via high (under roof inside) vented BREATHER. I would fit a electrically heated thermal blanket around water and fuel tanks as contingency for freeze protection while you have ready access. (Yes diesel can freeze to problematic syrup) Use in anger when situation demands and thermostatically control it for periods of absence when draining tank not preferential. Stainless or chromed?
If you have an overflow out the side of the boat, you will be allowing contamination in to the tank. You require a vent hole to stop vacuum lock, so you would be best having what was in place that goes higher than the inlet to the tank so that it can't overflow internally, you do this with a check valve that closes when the tank is filled but opens when the level drops.
100ml for 20 litres = 500ml for 100 litres = 1 litre for 200 litres = 3.3 litres for 650 litres. You need another 3 bottles of that cleaning stuff James.
the connection on the right is a breather and not an overflow. Without it the water couldnt be pumped to the taps as there would be a vacuum in the tank. The overflow pipe should be a T connection between the tank intake (where you put the hose to fill) and the tank.
No point in mentioning breather vents I see, I'm sure you have enough info on that. I was a bit concerned when you sat the tank on its side to clean/flush, putting all the pipes on top, if one litre = one kilo, (roughly), how on earth where you going to lay it flat to drain? Not long now till the project gets launched fully. Pun intended.
In my van the breather or potential overflow had to be to the outside of the van. In my case through the floor with a bug screen cover. Part of the self containment certificate. I imagine that you'd therefore need your breather/overflow over the side or through it. Just imagine vandals flooding your boat through the water tank if it wasn't vented outside!
After you drain the tank you should really fill it again with clean water and then drain again to flush out any remains of that product as that tank cleaner is really bad for you even in really diluted amounts
What did the inside of the water tank look like before you added in that cleaning product? I guess I’m interested in knowing if it had any visible “tide” lines around the inside, due to any water just sitting inside it for an extended period of time - you know what I mean 🙂 Thanks again for sharing your progress and your adventures. Much appreciated. Take care James. 🙂🤣🌈❤️
Absolutely! There are special chemicals for shocking and sterilizing potable water tanks. Just finished watching this episode and noticed you were using a sterilizing chemical. Afterwards it is important to flush the tank out several times before use. Still make sure you take the time to flush out the tank thoroughly. Remember, James, the tank on sloe patrol was new while who knows what is inside this tank.
It's a breather pipe, James. When the lid is on, it allows air in, to replace the water you are removing. If you vent it to outside, you'll need a bug screen to keep critters out.
@@IDKline Almost, but not quite, entirely unlike that. 🤣
Either way one need to instal a bug screen wether the breather is in or out of the boat.
@@Subgunman You would miss out on all that extra protein, if you put a bug screen on the vent
Coming along nicely James
I think that the overflow is also made as a venting pipe. Because if you don't have one you get a vacuum inside the tank, when you open the tap to get water out.. (sorry for my English)... Greetings from Holland.
Unless there is an issue with canal water getting into the fresh water overflow, your thinking is logically correct in my mind.
Hi James. Love your videos.. your tank needs a breather. So air can get into the tank. As you use the water inside of it.What about a non return valve on your breather. To prevent any contamination. Of your drinking water. You were right by saying. It should go out through the Hull. So into the cut. If that not possible it needs to be quite a bit higher than the filler. Which I know is far easier said than done. Keep up the great work. Will be interested to see your solution to this problem. Just an after thought. Can you reduce the size of the pipe and run it up inside the boat hidden behind the bulkhead. With a vent. So air can enter in through it. So you cut out the insulation. Not sure if that makes sense. All the best Pat.
Agreed James. Any boat we've had over the years overflows out the hull once the tank is full
Another good vlog Jamie’s tc now the oldies 👋👍
I would have cut a square in the board under the drain pipe on the tank - to have room to work on the plumbing fittings. Just be sure to have a screen filter on the vent/drain pipe that exhausts out the side. Check it as those things can clog up. Enjoy the video's - what a great project. As one mentioned - secure the water tank - if you happen to hit something solid that is a lot of weight to keep from moving.
Good job 😊 nice video 😊thank you
That is an odd place for a water filler! Usually we instal them on the gunnels up high so as not to allow any contaminates to enter the tank from that lower level floor where your filler is located now. After you secure the tank you could also inject some expanding foam under the unsupported ends after you put some water in the tank to offset the lifting action of the foam.
I was thinking exactly that.
You mentioned a few videos that your friend will have to sleep on the floor - can't you get a folding cot for a temp bed, that you can put out of the way while you're working?
I believe that other tank connection is an air admittance valve, necessary for when you are draining the tank ie in daily use. Mine had the valve internal to the boat, which was fine except one time when filling the tank instead of just dangling a loose hose end, I jammed a snug fitting into the fill. Result was water ended up pouring out of the air admittance valve, into the boat. So my advise would be to site that externally but it should be a valve rather than just an opening, for the sake of hygiene I think.
Mate, you need at least two more bottles (I'm assuming the tank cleaner is 1 litre) of tank cleaner. One is not enough
Your 2nd outlet is to let the air escape, once the tank is full it will overflow from the inlet. The 2nd outlet stays inside the boat, think about it, water will never get any higher than the top of the tank. Keep up the good work James, Kevin
@@IDKline It sure does, sorry if my comment didn't make that clear 🙂
@@IDKline I fixed mine part way up the wall behind a cupboard I made.
I love the fact you know yer hose stats. Say hello to Tim Cheese.
A good collision with a full water tank is likely to move the tank unless very well restrained. I'd advocate fill around void to sides and front with more foam to both cushion and insulate. Fit infill packing restraints between rear of tank and bulkhead. Right hand fitting is a VENT/Breather should run up to a high point INSIDE boat to minimise potential leakage points with unnecessary hull and superstructure penetrations. The left side Filler is ALSO the overflow when filling and using even a small amount of water will preclude any thermal expansion overflow occurring via high (under roof inside) vented BREATHER. I would fit a electrically heated thermal blanket around water and fuel tanks as contingency for freeze protection while you have ready access. (Yes diesel can freeze to problematic syrup) Use in anger when situation demands and thermostatically control it for periods of absence when draining tank not preferential. Stainless or chromed?
If you have an overflow out the side of the boat, you will be allowing contamination in to the tank.
You require a vent hole to stop vacuum lock, so you would be best having what was in place that goes higher than the inlet to the tank so that it can't overflow internally, you do this with a check valve that closes when the tank is filled but opens when the level drops.
Vent it outside, but put a bug screen in place on it. It's a combined overflow and breather.
Surely if your tank is 650 litres you’ll need to use 3.25 litres of Tank Clean if it is 100ml per 20 litres.. 🤓👍
breather above tank height and overflow at tank full height, you need the breather to let air in.
right hand fittng is a breather I think, allows air into the tank when in use.
I would install a air vent were the tank and the bulkhead are this will reduce condensation
Were the water tank is
100ml for 20 litres = 500ml for 100 litres = 1 litre for 200 litres = 3.3 litres for 650 litres. You need another 3 bottles of that cleaning stuff James.
just put a rubber washer at the bottom of the threads to get the "water" to face a different direction. cheers
There's also the issue that you'd usually be outside the boat when opening it, so you should be able to read it easiest from there.
Re water tank, on my shared boat the breather outlet is flush with the bow deck.
The 2e one is a breather pipe, and I would let it come out on the outside other wise you will be getting water in the boat
the connection on the right is a breather and not an overflow. Without it the water couldnt be pumped to the taps as there would be a vacuum in the tank. The overflow pipe should be a T connection between the tank intake (where you put the hose to fill) and the tank.
No point in mentioning breather vents I see, I'm sure you have enough info on that. I was a bit concerned when you sat the tank on its side to clean/flush, putting all the pipes on top, if one litre = one kilo, (roughly), how on earth where you going to lay it flat to drain? Not long now till the project gets launched fully. Pun intended.
Hi james where you get the water tank from
Hi, Where did you get your water tank? I am struggling to find this shape...
In my van the breather or potential overflow had to be to the outside of the van. In my case through the floor with a bug screen cover. Part of the self containment certificate.
I imagine that you'd therefore need your breather/overflow over the side or through it.
Just imagine vandals flooding your boat through the water tank if it wasn't vented outside!
After you drain the tank you should really fill it again with clean water and then drain again to flush out any remains of that product as that tank cleaner is really bad for you even in really diluted amounts
Hi James did you get Vactan from Denham marina or Uxbridge marina
Best wishes Cliff
Yes - denham yacht station - much cheaper than anywhere el
What did the inside of the water tank look like before you added in that cleaning product?
I guess I’m interested in knowing if it had any visible “tide” lines around the inside, due to any water just sitting inside it for an extended period of time - you know what I mean 🙂
Thanks again for sharing your progress and your adventures.
Much appreciated.
Take care James.
🙂🤣🌈❤️
👌👍❤️🇨🇦,, nice
Rookie question: how do you know what size of water tank to get? Is there a way of doing a water audit etc?
The well deck size usually determines this. The bigger the deck, the bigger a larger tank will fit.
Is there a bilge pump?
17:32 I know how it feels
SHINY !!!!
Wheres the rest of ur videos on doing up project 57
There is an entire playlist for project 58
Around 40 vids so far.
Next instalment is tonight
@@TheNarrowboatThatJamesBuilt i was meaning from mondays episode i dont wanna miss anything
good vid
my water tank overflows through a skin fitting into the canal...
May have mooring for errr a base might be to far north
Oh yeah…….how far north mate ?
@@TheNarrowboatThatJamesBuilt Northampton way 🤔
Sorry, too many adverts.
Don’t forget to sterilise the tank
Absolutely! There are special chemicals for shocking and sterilizing potable water tanks. Just finished watching this episode and noticed you were using a sterilizing chemical. Afterwards it is important to flush the tank out several times before use. Still make sure you take the time to flush out the tank thoroughly.
Remember, James, the tank on sloe patrol was new while who knows what is inside this tank.
Make sure its open or your pump will suck your tank in, its a vacuum vent first.