I recently got into lab scopes and am currently buying a picoscope. I was recommended your videos and I'm finding your content EXTREMELY beneficial. I probably consume 4 to 5 hours of your videos everyday after work. Keep up the good work brother. 🙏
Jakawild welcome to the club! I used to do what you are doing and watch Scannerdanner for hours after work 😎 it changed my whole career and made me the top diag tech at pretty much every shop I've ever worked. Lab scope diag is literally life changing lol
Thank you! I'm currently the only one attempting to use a scope for diagnostics, I work for a Ford dealer. I'm kicking myself for missing out on lab scopes all these years.
Nice! 👍🏻 You’ll save yourself a ton of time on diagnostics with a scope and also give yourself way more capability. I try to show the guys all of the time what they’re missing and their response is always something like “I don’t know how to work that thing”. I keep trying to explain to them that it’s nothing more than a glorified super fast graphing meter showing voltage over time but they refuse to hear it. A scope was a necessary tool years ago and it will be even more so going forward as technology progresses in this field.
Global disabled and being frozen needs a drive cycle. You need to accelerate to 80km/h and then coast to 50km/h without braking. This needs to be done 5 times. There's also other criteria like temperature and fuel level that needs to be confirmed. Service information all data and identifx have the criteria. Awesome video
Also you gotta step on the accelerator pedal in a CPR manner, jerk the steering wheel exactly 30 degrees left and right, while maintaining a six o clock flux capacitor spark b u t t plug but no bud position, while pulling and turning the key in the ignition, then press and hold and wait for the system to reset and trigger the alarm. And I thought the BMWs were over engineered. Dear Chrysler! These companies oughta go back to hiring real engineers with real world common sense like Scanner Danner.
I'm sorry my friends, I forgot I have a wedding to go to today, so I can't stay to watch with you guys. Just want to say thank you for all of the good information about the known mechanical issues with this engine, and then also remind all of you that when you see this type of secondary ignition misfire on a labscope, that this is NOT a mechanical or fuel system fault that would do this. Sure you can get turbulence and things like that, but go back and look at the pico images in part 1 and then the images from the Verus in this part, when the plug was moved to the number 5. These are always secondary ignition faults when you see this (not fuel or mechanical issues) . Burn them in your mind 😉 Love you guys! I learn from you too. Have a blessed day. EDIT: one more thing! This is the second time I've seen a misfire counter, continue to count, after a fix (no more misfiring taking place) on a Chrysler/Jeep product. Be sure to clear all adaptives and if it is available to do a cam crank relearn, then clear codes, after fixing misfires on these systems!
James' beard just keep getting longer, Paul's biceps just keep getting bigger, and Caleb's camera work just keeps getting better - I love you guys! Paul (in MA)
Just having the wrong reach (short) plug can lead to idle misfires, even with a plug that’s not defective. The location of the spark within the chamber is important. I used to do engine development for Chrysler, and ran lots of idle stability tests with different plugs on 4V heads. Reach and electrode length can have a big impact on 4V heads. A lot of 4V heads use medium or long electrodes for this reason. Pentastar was the last program I worked on (although as a Program Manager).
Very true. The spark location within the incoming air fuel mix, can absolutely effect the ability of the A/F mix to properly detonate. Diagnose Dan actually did a video on this exact scenario.
@@rickw.9298 I personally did not investigate indexing, although the guys that developed the 2.7l V6 did, and I read their report. There is an effect, but it was minimal, and not worth the effort on production engines. I did investigate different plug types, and multi-strike ignition systems, and found that single J-strap plugs had better combustion stability than the multiple ground electrode types (and by a significant amount). I theorize that the multi-strap plugs simply have greater potential to quench the flame kernel. Multi-strike systems were good for extending the lean misfire limit and EGR misfire limit.
I watch ScannerDanner videos everyday in the mornings with my cup of coffee before work, Paul you are a great teacher. I have learned so much it's hard to calculate its worth. I also like Pinehollow with Ivan. Technique and approach to diagnostics is half that battle so these videos are awesome.
Excellent video! I've had the same problem at my shop the past year or so with inferior parts, especially with coils and sensors. I have Mevotec supreme lifetime ball joints come back after 5,000 miles on a lifetime warranty part. Moog is not much better after manufacturing switched to China. We are staying OEM now, not worth doing the job twice. Great seeing all the Danners together at Jimmy's shop!
Apparently you will need to coast down from high speeds at least five times for the Adaptive Numerator to gather enough data to complete the relearn process.
I like that you preached comparing cylinders. My favorite analogy for that was what one of my teachers always called "Sesame Street logic". See which one of these things is not like the others.
From the internets - “As for the misfire monitor. That's not a Chrysler thing, a lot of those parameters are set by Industry standards. The PCM detects misfires by monitoring the crank sensor. As a cylinder fires the crank rotation speeds up. The PCM knows where #1 cylinder is on the crank tone wheel, so from there it knows which cylinder should fire next. If it doesn't see that acceleration that means a misfire has occurred. It's quite complicated, it needs to be able to adjust its readings over time in order to factor in engine wear. If the misfire monitor is set to global disable its because one of the self tests either hasn't run or its failed. It needs to relearn the crank sensor before misfire monitor becomes active. “
I learn something from you guys no matter what video I watch , don't know how to thank you enough , all of this is apparently an unending "learning curve" even for experts like you guys , thank you so much for sharing your unbelievable skills .
When i or someone else has reset the adaptives the vehicle has to driven and several acceleration and decels must be done for the ecm to relearn cam and crank to monitor the misfire
Thanks for the video! I’ve got a similar problem on my 2016 Passat. It’s only misfiring on cylinder 3 at idle. As soon as I press the accelerator the engine completely smooths out. I replaced the coils and plugs because I know the coils were original 150k mile coils. Still missing. I even bought a VCDS cable so that I could look at and graph the live data and confirmed it. These two videos have given me a few ideas to chase and see if I can get my car figured out. God bless!
I want to thank you for a previous video where you used water to find a vacuum leak (vs propane, carb cleaner etc). It worked really well to find a throttle body leak on a Honda K24 engine.
Been having issues with part as well, went through 3 vtec solenoid pressure sensors on one and two on another before going for a dealer part. Its aggravating b/c you pull oil pressure, put a trigger light bulb on the solenoid and switch while driving to make sure and its confirmed another bad part. Or you send it off with a customer then part fails and the shop looks bad and you do your diligence to confirm the issue and ends up being the new part. Thanks for giving your experience and knowledge!
Too often I find Autolite plugs in Hondas and Toyotas. People go to the parts stores and the counter guy says "Do you want the $8 Autolite plug or the $17 NGK plug?" Customer says, "Are they the same?" Counter guy says, "Yeah, they're both Irridium." That's how this kind of thing gets started. Even many techs don't understand this rule: Spark plugs and O2's....ALWAYS go with OE. ALWAYS.
Majority of things should be OEM when possible. Especially electronics like sensors and actuators. Cost more but are usually always more reliable and accurate
@@carmo9693 While NGK and Denso are great plugs I don't usually put them in a Chevy or a Ford. The point is to ALWAYS use the same plug the factory used unless there is a compelling reason to use something different. My exception to this is on older vehicles that had copper or platinum plugs I will often upgrade to Iridium. You can upgrade but never downgrade a plug. Don't put in a copper or platinum plug where Iridium came from the factory, etc. That said, recently I did put NGK Rutheniums in my 2002 GMC 5.3L as an experiment and, so far, they are working well.
Given the difference in plug length on this one, i suspect that is this problem (spark in a poor air/fuel mixture part of the engine), but it could be a carbon track. I had a spark plug with a carbon track following the ceramic from the center electrode to the metal inside of the threaded part. Had to hold it up in bright direct sunlight to see the shiny track. I Also had 2 different early 90's chevy rotors that arced through the center plastic of the rotor to the distributor shaft.... I suspect a small air bubble in the plastic.
I see the Chrysler PT Cruiser through the Durango's door window, Danner! I am pretty sure its there for some misfire or no start, no crank issues as well😅
Hi Danner, awesome video! Informative and yes, new parts definitely makes you retest the whole repair. Thats the difference between a parts replacement, and a technician .
I had a similar issue with this jeep (hemi). It came in with misfire cylinder 5 and the cam was wiped out. The roller on the lifter was seized, this is my 3rd one in a month. I did the cam and it still said misfire on 5 with no misfire. I thought because the battery was disconnected it wouldn't need a reset but it did. 2 weeks and jeep runs great. I was wondering if the hemis have a oil issue to the lifter on 5 because its always 5 and the cam is wiped out. I'm not joking I've done 3 this month. All hemis all misfire 5 and the cams wiped out.
Yes the 6.4 hemi’s eat camshafts. I can’t remember exactly, but I think it was the 2012-2014 SRT’s were notorious for this. I don’t really follow the non-SRT stuff, but I would imagine it was a problem with all of the hemi’s of that vintage. I THINK they did something to solve the problem in the later models, but I don’t remember specifically what the problem was or what they did to fix it. All I know is I wouldn’t trade my ‘08 Jeep with the 6.1L at 200k miles for anything that has a 6.4L in it. They are ticking time bombs from what I’ve seen.
Always always always use OE parts whenever you can. I learned that the hard way. More expensive? You betcha. Will you be in there redoing the job in a few weeks or months if you don't use OE? There's a good probability you will be. What's your time worth to you?
Agree but even OE can be an issue. Just did an ABS module on a 2018 Duramax, factory replacement, and the pins were too short where it bolted up to the pump motor! Caused a pump motor circuit code we didn't have before replacing. SMH this was an OE part! I was so mad.
@@ScannerDanner Hi Paul. Was OEM ,or OEM rebuild?It's a small difference. Because,some parts, even OEM, are rebuild, and when you buy something from the dealer, you have to give back the old one,so they can rebuild it, and re sell it to the next victim, em sorry, I mean,next customer😂🤣😂🤣.
I have had a few Chryslers that misfired from the incorrect spark plugs. One even set O2 codes that had me chasing my tail for a couple hours since it kept testing good. New plugs fixed them. Also have seen misfire and throttle body codes from weak batteries, going into limp mode, even though it started the engine thanks to a gear reduction starter, it dropped below 10 volts, started and set codes, but only after sitting over night. Bad parts is also becoming a bigger problem with each passing day. Our world, lol.
Speaking of bad new parts,I just had a new ,OEM.Nissan fuel pump installed in my 2015 Altima.It lasted 1 day and the car stalled again and had an engine check light come on.I took it back to my mech,he scanned it and came back with a fuel temp sensor And fuel level sensor.He sent it back to Nissan and got another fuel pump.So far so good.My mech said the same thing about never having seen so many bad new parts.
Hi paul .i belive the igf generator tide on the igt line inside the ignitor gives the unreal misfires at the en of the video....as its not the acctual confirmation....saw the drawings on a toyota page...maybe working the same way
This may not apply to the data issue you were having here BUT, I’ve been told by two different snap on tech guys that snap on buys it’s data by the line, the pids they didn’t buy has inactive or inaccurate data showing. I was told this while dealing with similar issues with snap on data. I would be curious to see what Autel would show on this vehicle. Chrysler is getting to be a pain with data in the aftermarket and especially with snap on scanners
Using another scanner would have been my first move, just to see what happens. Unfortunately for me I only have one Snap On Modis and a cheapo Actron, so scanner weirdness can be very challenging sometimes. I really need to get into the Autel world since my Modis is now obsolete.
👍had a 07 CRD Jeep Liberty that broke some rockers due to a timing belt failure. No injection pulse until everything was reset. Found out the hard way on that one.
Paul this one for you...At the end of the video the misfire is gone but the scanner is still reporting....some ignitors have an inbuilt igf generator to comensate for timing delays i belive .hence the computer is not seeing the real igf signal but the generated one ..saw this on toyota design ignitor
Dan,i think it must've been a patriot you are talking about with the 2.4l.On these 2.4 i get alot of these 1/4 cylinder misfire.especially on the avengers and so forth.when that memory reset dont do the job i do the enumerator reset/clear function and it has you drive the vehicle from 10 mph to 40 mph.it never says complete on my launch.but it always works.since on some of those engines it dont give you ckp/cmp function like that Durango did.thank you for your vids.i learn alot.
Ran into a cylinder 2 misfire on a 2015 Dodge Durango limited with a 3.6. Cylinder 2 ended up having low compression @ 65psi . Scoped the cylinder and the Piston was rusty looking so pressure tested coolant system to see the coolant leak in #2 from the head gasket with the scope.
I've seen milage and cycles be required for a ECM to completely become operational. And both being options on the same car. I've done some "what if's" with one car in particular and it was extremely consistent with the FSM information.
If I pull out the lab scope to look at a single cylinder miss fire i always use at least 2 channels to compare to a good cylinder! I how ever don’t get to use the scope that often the place I work kinda steers me away from using it :( just because of the time it takes but Your videos are very helpful and are getting me a little more proficient at it!
I put a cylinder head on an early 2000;s Honda. Initial issue was a valve and seat failure with a low compression misfire. I finished the job and it ran smooth as glass. However it kept setting a misfire code on the originally bad cylinder. Flashing check engine light ect. I reset the engine adaptives after an hour of scratching my head and it eliminated the problem. I am hypothesizing that the misfire came on so slowly the adaptives learned the misfire as normal operation, and the cylinder suddenly operating differently flagged it as a misfire.
I've used Autolight iridium plugs in every chrysler I've worked on, and never had any problems. What you did comparing the sizes was smart, and is a MUST befor installing replacement plugs . These auto part stores have there spark plug interchange numbers all jacked up, they will tell you a copper plug will work on most engines. 🤦♂️
I am currently going through this exact same issue. Lazy bastards at my mechanics shop have charged me over $1800 dollars over the last 12 months chasing this issue. They did not replace (again) plugs and upper and lower intake o-rings, saying 'we already did that'. Now I am going to do this myself. Start with Plugs (again) and make sure they are OEM and move on from that. Thank you guys!!
The Courtesy Ford stealership in Oregon also charges for work they don't even do. They lie and deceive for money. They act like there is not a problem if its under warranty so they won't have to pay for it, etc. Shame on those crooks.
In youth working with my dad we never used anything but Champion spark plugs except for Delco plugs for the awful SOHC Vauxhall Bedford slant 4 and Bosch for Mercedes fintails Later I switched to mainly using NGK. Love the XK150 quietly sitting in the corner istr Champion plug for those was N12Y
Cool intro, Caleb whistling & SD singing "we're back", Love it😍 This case study was great👍 The only thing I'm wondering is that how would the live data on an Autel scanner respond to the parameters reset function, just curious😉 Special thanks to Caleb Danner & James Danner👍 Stay Safe Guy's❤
My understanding is 2018 and above you must register your scan tool with the cloud to view Chrysler data for security purposes. -Reset pcm under Guided diagnostics in witech or battery disconnect and touch terminals. You won’t find info for global disable for this product but you will find misfire monitor disable.
Great Video as always. Nice to see you talk about false miss fire data getting corrected with re-learns. Have seen it here and there. A little confirmation from another source is great. Kind of weird that it is Chrysler that keeps a memory and a good signal can be corrupted by it's adaptives. Reminds me of early OBD II days when people used to disconnect the Battery to clear the Light and (I believe) Chrysler was the worst at learning bad signals to be good. Made troubleshooting a bear... Kind of Curious if the P0302 was a Permanent Code. (Did no pay attention to the year.) Normally when basic codes are cleared, the Fuel, Miss fire, and Component Monitors are set at Key on. Permanent codes keep one of them from being set until a Drive Cycle or 2 has been run without repeat of Code.
I had decent luck with Autolight plugs may be it's luck lol . I not experienced that with Champion plugs which really means nothing. I enjoy your videos great information.
Paul. I’ve searched. Page 10 of your book. Watched your video. Why is my iac current high 2004 Durango 4.7 ? It’s like 4000mah. I posted in forum. Please direct me. I fixed the misfire.
@@ScannerDanner I posted in forum. Dugy401978 posted a picture. 0-1000 normal. Iac width point 36.98%. Iac total airflow 0.14498 oz/s. That’s all the info my scanner gives me. It’s a two wire plug. I’ve looked for info on if I can test with multi meter. And what those readings should say. Sorry to bug you. Truck runs good since getting rid of misfire by changing plugs. I do have a bad o2 sensor. Fixing to changed those.
See video at 12:20 - ‘dimensional Reach is different on autolite vs OEM plug! ‘ Misfires on #2 were due to good looking plug of different length dimension from OEM . but that bad dimension on the new non oem plug causes that #2 cyl and its injector to misfire. This diagnosis by SD tells me not to trust the aotoparts store saying autolites can replace the oem-recommended plug. . . I’m curious why the DTC code wasn’t I’d ing a P0302 misfire. instead of 00300 ?
. your scanner gets the info from global obd data and it froze due to software issues on your scanner, if you had rebooted the scanner it would have worked. Thank you Snapon
I’ve been screaming plug at the screen during installment one of this saga. I recently had (and have had) poor Champion plugs more than anything. Most recently, a freshly built motor from a (supposedly) reputable shop in my area. I chased what I thought was an issue with the aftermarket fuel injection system (that’s what the shop chalked it up to before washing their hands of me). I had it to multiple people who made much needed improvements to the install, however, it was not until I dug into it myself that I discovered a CRACKED PLUG!!! Likely been cracked since installed by the shop as it was hidden snugly behind a header and someone probably smacked it with the socket when removing it. Threw in a fresh round of NGKs and ran beautifully.
NEW means Never Ever Worked in my books, thats why they give warrantys cause things do go bad out the box. But having a misfire idle only issue with a 14 jeep 3.6 right now, it had low compression on driver side and a head was put on by a crack head though. So I pulled the head(it came from junk yard) he had it shaved and compression has come up and misfire isn't as noticeable. The scanner I have shows a misfire counter but isn't picking anything up. It's very frustrating for sure, plugs are champion and look to be newer.
Hi I have a 2007 Liberty 3.7L V6, 117,000 miles. Owned it since 67,000 miles. It operated perfectly for the first 30,000 miles and then it started getting a #1 Cyl misfire code P0301. It also seldomly gets a #1 cyl fuel injector circuit open P0201. It must be a very mild fault as the misfire freeze frame data shows it always happens at less than 350 rpm and when cleared it comes back immediately at next startup, cold or hot. So it seems to only happen once on startup as its moving up to regular idle speed. The miss isnt noticeable when driving or idling. Its getting 15.5 mpg fuel mileage. Doesnt burn oil. Doesnt smoke. Has great power. I've changed plugs and coils but no difference. Cleaned air intake, air filter, and ran cleaner through system. I've cleaned and inspected the injector plug and all wires but no difference. Dry / wet compression test of #1, 3 and 5 cylinders all read good: 160 / 175 psi. I'm wondering if there's a mild wire defect for that injector, or just a flakey connection somewhere. Has anyone tried to use a new set of compatible gauge wires and run them to a place closer to the injector control? I can't see where the wires go though. I'm not sure if I should just live with this, or troubleshoot it more. I don’t care about the engine light as we don't have emission requirements. Now that I know the compression is good, I'm not so worried about it. Any suggestions of what to do next? Thanks!
Fords need a Neutral Misfire Monitor reset after almost any real work being completed. its something that I personally try to do after almost any repair. Great case study even if it was "just a bad plug"
I bought a cheap scanner $100 because it had mode 6 data to find misfires on my 04 mustang. I wish I could monitor it live but all I can do is just find random misfires no idea when it resets and is actually looking for them because only time I want to find misfire is at idle
My truck (2014 Dodge Dueango) had the same problem where it would shake when in Idle and especially when we had our AC on. It showed it was misfiring on cylinder 1 and he couldnt figure it out until he found a tiny hole in the coil boot. He replaced it along with the spark plug and that was the end of our problem. Truck has been running great and hasn’t misfired ever since. Hope this helps anyone.
Need help!!!! I have a 94 dodge ram 1500, I replaced the motor and transmission. I do not have a scanner that will read live data. It will not stay running, I must admit I am no mechanic I have replaced many parts in hopes it would b one of them. No luck! I am getting a code 37 which is a torc temp sensor could this b y it is not staying running or am I missing something else. Please help I enjoy this old truck and want to b able to drive it again
Great who done it video. Chased the new parts rabbit down that hole numerous times. Frustrating as hell. I have got to get me a Pico even if it’s only a two channel. Is your brother in the auto restoration business also? Cool cars in his shop.
I just went through this on a dodge avenger 3.6. Turns out it was a new Bosch O2 sensor. Chrysler doesn't do well with Bosch, either misfires, or heater performance codes.
I’m pretty sure the misfire drive cycle needs to be completed before the global disable re enables. Interesting video, hand on forehead to autolite plug lol 😂
I personally use a milliohmmeter (quite expensive stuff) and compare all plugs before installing : usually at least 1 amongst 8 is out of specs... AC Delco plugs for C4 Vette... which could explain the fire line difference..... extremely good videos!
@@bernarddesanglois8690 Tell me , Every time you replace spam plugs in a car you always check it with milliohs and find a defective in a spark plug set , but tell me what are the specifications in a spark plugs ?? To have an idea
I understand the answer of Mr Danner and he's right but replacing the plugs on a C4 is a real pain if you can't get underneath the car. So if you can eliminate a bad brand new plug before installing you'll save time. First of all check the discontinuity between positive and negative electrodes (should read infinity) then measure resistance between positive input (top) and positive output (bottom) with milliohmmeter, should read less than 1 Ohm (around 0.01 or less) the goal here being to verify that all your plugs are within the same value. Also verify for cracks in porcelain (isolation) cause, yes, I've had cracked brand new plugs ! And that's where I reach the comment of Mr. Danner : it does not mean the plug will behave as it should when installed. Temperature, dilatation, pressure and air/gas mixture will affect spark duration and strength. Also gap between electrodes is an important factor even if preset by plug manufacturer I always recheck and align to car manufacturer specs.
You may have figured it out by now but global disable will come on tell all the things you reset relearn also it will come on if it’s below a certain fuel level to keep it from monitoring misfires during that period
There’s a a note in the Service Manual of this car that says: “The Adaptive must be learned before the PCM will run the Mis-Fire Monitor. The PCM updates the Adaptive Numerator at every key-ON, and is relearn after battery disconnect. I’m not sure what that mean…
Auto lite plugs suck. I’ve traced a lot of idle only misfires to many times an autolite plug. I’ll swap it with another plug retest and issue moves elsewhere I then condemn the plug and recommend the right plugs. Or a hey my car keeps going through coils what’s wrong? Uhm hey it could be these cheapO spark plugs. Love the channel, been seeing more and more crappy parts these days does make the life harder.
Are the autolite plugs no good for the Durango v6 2016? I am having a ruff idle problem. I just did a tune up. The codes after the tune up is P105D, P219B and PO302. After getting the codes I replaced the #2 plug again and ignition coil. Also replaced the MAP sensor. It still idling rough. could it be the autolite plugs?
Not sure if this is the issue but on some Chrysler’s the misfire monitor will not run until the adaptive numerator has been learned. Saw it in alldata at some point when researching monitor operation. Love your videos, nice work.
My wife's car, a 2012 Grand Caravan is having the same issue. The shop said they switched the plug and coil to another cylinder, and still got the same response. At this moment, they said they had lost compression on cycl 2. So they are going to remove the head and check for head gasket, or cracks. I don't think the head gasket is a problem. The crankcase oil is clean, no evidence. of water in the oil, and never have to add water/ antifreeze. Never have to add oil and exhaust is clean. I know this is not a expert way of figuring what's wrong, it is just my gut feeling. This issue was in the mechanics bulletin. This way the dealers will know about it without having a recall. I hope that we will get decent news later today. At one time, when I was a kid, I was into building engines, setting up carbs on other kids cars. But as time went on, I got into refrigeration and did not keep up with the engines these days. I am sure if I devote time to re-learning, which I am going to do, I will eventuality I will do well with it. Of course, I am not going to buy all of the scanners, ( like a Pico ) or hat ever just to work o my car. Fortunately, A friend of mine has a great shop and he lets me hang around and learn. Car are far more involved these days. Give me 1970 Chevy 396 cu in 375 hp and I will rebuild it for you and make it "crank ". I miss the old days, being at Motion Performance, riding in the second V8 Vega, or the Motion Camaros , Novas, and Chevelles. Joel Rosen built himself an empire back then. He was a real good guy. I miss him
Lol a lot on this one! But the lack of having the ability to recreate this under snap throttle and load conditions had me looking in other directions. I have to say that this is probably the first bad plug that I've seen, that was an idle only misfire.
I've been banging my head on our Chrysler Pacifica van for about 2 months. #5 Cylinder misfire...I replaced ALL plugs with new Denso iridiums, new Mopar Coil pack for that plug, switched the coil pack but misfire still on #5, did a compression test and got 160 PSI which was very close to the other ones on that bank, did a coolant pressure test and it held 21 PSI for 10 minutes, did a fuel pressure test and got 60 PSI consistently. The ONLY thing I can think of at this point is bad rocker arm or lash adjuster??? Unfortunately this is a Gen 3 VVT VVL engine which is very different from the older Pentastar 3.6s (no vids on how to fix rockers or lash adjusters on a gen 3, just older ones) so I am probably going to have to throw in the white flag and take it to a mechanic. Runs REALLY rough on cold start but then is fine for the rest of the time. Thank you for the video at least, I learned more about how complicated computers are on these systems.
Could the idle misfire have come from the plug (Autolite) not being as deep in the cylinder and the spark having been grounding to the head during idle. During load the spark moved deeper into the cylinder thus not showing a misfire.
Hello sir my comment is unrelated to this video, but pls can you answer my question on your other video “Nissan Versa code P0705….” I need to know if the customer car got fixed after you replaced the Reverse light bulb, or what happened to the car
I've seen a few times on 4cyl Caliber / Patriot false misfire on 2 cylinder simultaneously. Leading to fuel injectors cut and then going into real dead misfires. The shop would change every damn part without fixing anything. I get called in. First thing.. clear memory. Then I'm done in 2min. Fixed. Notorious on 4cyl dodge engine. Everytime you replace a part on those, you should always clear memory.
The reason for the Reset fixing the issue is the Crank Cam has wear on it and the timing gets off resetting the Memory forces it to relearn the new position on the timing so the computer learns the new worn position on the timing System Basically the timing as the Engine wears needs a reset even GM has this issue
if I were you I would recommend replacing all the spark plugs. the burn times indicate to me other misfires will occur down the road and or we could see another coil burnout.
I recently got into lab scopes and am currently buying a picoscope. I was recommended your videos and I'm finding your content EXTREMELY beneficial. I probably consume 4 to 5 hours of your videos everyday after work. Keep up the good work brother. 🙏
Awesome! Thank you. Be sure to watch my picoscopes basics parts 1 and 2 videos too my new friend.
Jakawild welcome to the club! I used to do what you are doing and watch Scannerdanner for hours after work 😎 it changed my whole career and made me the top diag tech at pretty much every shop I've ever worked. Lab scope diag is literally life changing lol
@@jeffreywilsonrubikscubeonb2428 thank you so much for this comment ❤
Thank you! I'm currently the only one attempting to use a scope for diagnostics, I work for a Ford dealer. I'm kicking myself for missing out on lab scopes all these years.
Nice! 👍🏻 You’ll save yourself a ton of time on diagnostics with a scope and also give yourself way more capability. I try to show the guys all of the time what they’re missing and their response is always something like “I don’t know how to work that thing”. I keep trying to explain to them that it’s nothing more than a glorified super fast graphing meter showing voltage over time but they refuse to hear it. A scope was a necessary tool years ago and it will be even more so going forward as technology progresses in this field.
Global disabled and being frozen needs a drive cycle. You need to accelerate to 80km/h and then coast to 50km/h without braking. This needs to be done 5 times. There's also other criteria like temperature and fuel level that needs to be confirmed. Service information all data and identifx have the criteria. Awesome video
Also you gotta step on the accelerator pedal in a CPR manner, jerk the steering wheel exactly 30 degrees left and right, while maintaining a six o clock flux capacitor spark b u t t plug but no bud position, while pulling and turning the key in the ignition, then press and hold and wait for the system to reset and trigger the alarm. And I thought the BMWs were over engineered. Dear Chrysler!
These companies oughta go back to hiring real engineers with real world common sense like Scanner Danner.
I'm sorry my friends, I forgot I have a wedding to go to today, so I can't stay to watch with you guys.
Just want to say thank you for all of the good information about the known mechanical issues with this engine, and then also remind all of you that when you see this type of secondary ignition misfire on a labscope, that this is NOT a mechanical or fuel system fault that would do this. Sure you can get turbulence and things like that, but go back and look at the pico images in part 1 and then the images from the Verus in this part, when the plug was moved to the number 5. These are always secondary ignition faults when you see this (not fuel or mechanical issues) . Burn them in your mind 😉
Love you guys! I learn from you too. Have a blessed day.
EDIT: one more thing! This is the second time I've seen a misfire counter, continue to count, after a fix (no more misfiring taking place) on a Chrysler/Jeep product. Be sure to clear all adaptives and if it is available to do a cam crank relearn, then clear codes, after fixing misfires on these systems!
James' beard just keep getting longer, Paul's biceps just keep getting bigger, and Caleb's camera work just keeps getting better - I love you guys!
Paul (in MA)
Paul is close to Dorian Yates
Just having the wrong reach (short) plug can lead to idle misfires, even with a plug that’s not defective. The location of the spark within the chamber is important. I used to do engine development for Chrysler, and ran lots of idle stability tests with different plugs on 4V heads. Reach and electrode length can have a big impact on 4V heads. A lot of 4V heads use medium or long electrodes for this reason. Pentastar was the last program I worked on (although as a Program Manager).
Did you explore spark plug indexing on the 4V heads?
Very true. The spark location within the incoming air fuel mix, can absolutely effect the ability of the A/F mix to properly detonate. Diagnose Dan actually did a video on this exact scenario.
Really cool to hear your input..
@@rickw.9298 I personally did not investigate indexing, although the guys that developed the 2.7l V6 did, and I read their report. There is an effect, but it was minimal, and not worth the effort on production engines. I did investigate different plug types, and multi-strike ignition systems, and found that single J-strap plugs had better combustion stability than the multiple ground electrode types (and by a significant amount). I theorize that the multi-strap plugs simply have greater potential to quench the flame kernel. Multi-strike systems were good for extending the lean misfire limit and EGR misfire limit.
yes i agree and o.e. is the way... Champion work fine !
I watch ScannerDanner videos everyday in the mornings with my cup of coffee before work, Paul you are a great teacher. I have learned so much it's hard to calculate its worth. I also like Pinehollow with Ivan. Technique and approach to diagnostics is half that battle so these videos are awesome.
Your not alone.😁
How nice to film your father and his brother horsing around! 😀
Excellent video! I've had the same problem at my shop the past year or so with inferior parts, especially with coils and sensors. I have Mevotec supreme lifetime ball joints come back after 5,000 miles on a lifetime warranty part. Moog is not much better after manufacturing switched to China. We are staying OEM now, not worth doing the job twice. Great seeing all the Danners together at Jimmy's shop!
Apparently you will need to coast down from high speeds at least five times for the Adaptive Numerator to gather enough data to complete the relearn process.
But the fans demand videos from The Danner Boys! Good lesson Paul, Danner and Caleb!!
I like that you preached comparing cylinders. My favorite analogy for that was what one of my teachers always called "Sesame Street logic". See which one of these things is not like the others.
I think I know that guy 😀
Thanks Shaun
From the internets - “As for the misfire monitor. That's not a Chrysler thing, a lot of those parameters are set by Industry standards. The PCM detects misfires by monitoring the crank sensor. As a cylinder fires the crank rotation speeds up. The PCM knows where #1 cylinder is on the crank tone wheel, so from there it knows which cylinder should fire next. If it doesn't see that acceleration that means a misfire has occurred. It's quite complicated, it needs to be able to adjust its readings over time in order to factor in engine wear.
If the misfire monitor is set to global disable its because one of the self tests either hasn't run or its failed. It needs to relearn the crank sensor before misfire monitor becomes active. “
I learn something from you guys no matter what video I watch , don't know how to thank you enough , all of this is apparently an unending "learning curve" even for experts like you guys , thank you so much for sharing your unbelievable skills .
Unending learning curve indeed! Well put. Thanks so much!
Thank a lot for another great Saturday with your videos.
Hate dealing with bad brand new parts.. Easy to diagnose but frustrating to deal with..
I just realized that @scannerdanner looks like Triple H from wwe!
Thanks for part 2, keep up the videos we all appreciate them!
When i or someone else has reset the adaptives the vehicle has to driven and several acceleration and decels must be done for the ecm to relearn cam and crank to monitor the misfire
Thanks for the video! I’ve got a similar problem on my 2016 Passat. It’s only misfiring on cylinder 3 at idle. As soon as I press the accelerator the engine completely smooths out. I replaced the coils and plugs because I know the coils were original 150k mile coils. Still missing. I even bought a VCDS cable so that I could look at and graph the live data and confirmed it. These two videos have given me a few ideas to chase and see if I can get my car figured out. God bless!
Classic symptoms of a compression issue
@@ScannerDanner thanks! I will get it compression tested.
I want to thank you for a previous video where you used water to find a vacuum leak (vs propane, carb cleaner etc). It worked really well to find a throttle body leak on a Honda K24 engine.
Been having issues with part as well, went through 3 vtec solenoid pressure sensors on one and two on another before going for a dealer part. Its aggravating b/c you pull oil pressure, put a trigger light bulb on the solenoid and switch while driving to make sure and its confirmed another bad part. Or you send it off with a customer then part fails and the shop looks bad and you do your diligence to confirm the issue and ends up being the new part. Thanks for giving your experience and knowledge!
Too often I find Autolite plugs in Hondas and Toyotas. People go to the parts stores and the counter guy says "Do you want the $8 Autolite plug or the $17 NGK plug?" Customer says, "Are they the same?" Counter guy says, "Yeah, they're both Irridium." That's how this kind of thing gets started. Even many techs don't understand this rule: Spark plugs and O2's....ALWAYS go with OE. ALWAYS.
Horrible isn't it?
Majority of things should be OEM when possible. Especially electronics like sensors and actuators. Cost more but are usually always more reliable and accurate
Or use an oem brand ie like denso on honda or toyota, I used them in my dodge without fail.
@@carmo9693 While NGK and Denso are great plugs I don't usually put them in a Chevy or a Ford. The point is to ALWAYS use the same plug the factory used unless there is a compelling reason to use something different. My exception to this is on older vehicles that had copper or platinum plugs I will often upgrade to Iridium. You can upgrade but never downgrade a plug. Don't put in a copper or platinum plug where Iridium came from the factory, etc.
That said, recently I did put NGK Rutheniums in my 2002 GMC 5.3L as an experiment and, so far, they are working well.
Perfect diagnostic Paul. You have a good brother and Sun. Thanks for your Videos and all good for you and your Family.
Given the difference in plug length on this one, i suspect that is this problem (spark in a poor air/fuel mixture part of the engine), but it could be a carbon track.
I had a spark plug with a carbon track following the ceramic from the center electrode to the metal inside of the threaded part. Had to hold it up in bright direct sunlight to see the shiny track.
I Also had 2 different early 90's chevy rotors that arced through the center plastic of the rotor to the distributor shaft.... I suspect a small air bubble in the plastic.
Nice catch Paul, the height difference of the plug. Nothing like keeping it simple……
El mismo problema tuve en una ford escape 2007. La falla bobinas de encendido
I see the Chrysler PT Cruiser through the Durango's door window, Danner! I am pretty sure its there for some misfire or no start, no crank issues as well😅
Hi Danner, awesome video! Informative and yes, new parts definitely makes you retest the whole repair. Thats the difference between a parts replacement, and a technician .
I had a similar issue with this jeep (hemi). It came in with misfire cylinder 5 and the cam was wiped out. The roller on the lifter was seized, this is my 3rd one in a month. I did the cam and it still said misfire on 5 with no misfire. I thought because the battery was disconnected it wouldn't need a reset but it did. 2 weeks and jeep runs great. I was wondering if the hemis have a oil issue to the lifter on 5 because its always 5 and the cam is wiped out. I'm not joking I've done 3 this month. All hemis all misfire 5 and the cams wiped out.
Yes the 6.4 hemi’s eat camshafts. I can’t remember exactly, but I think it was the 2012-2014 SRT’s were notorious for this. I don’t really follow the non-SRT stuff, but I would imagine it was a problem with all of the hemi’s of that vintage. I THINK they did something to solve the problem in the later models, but I don’t remember specifically what the problem was or what they did to fix it. All I know is I wouldn’t trade my ‘08 Jeep with the 6.1L at 200k miles for anything that has a 6.4L in it. They are ticking time bombs from what I’ve seen.
Always always always use OE parts whenever you can. I learned that the hard way. More expensive? You betcha. Will you be in there redoing the job in a few weeks or months if you don't use OE? There's a good probability you will be. What's your time worth to you?
Agree but even OE can be an issue. Just did an ABS module on a 2018 Duramax, factory replacement, and the pins were too short where it bolted up to the pump motor! Caused a pump motor circuit code we didn't have before replacing. SMH this was an OE part! I was so mad.
@@ScannerDanner Hi Paul. Was OEM ,or OEM rebuild?It's a small difference. Because,some parts, even OEM, are rebuild, and when you buy something from the dealer, you have to give back the old one,so they can rebuild it, and re sell it to the next victim, em sorry, I mean,next customer😂🤣😂🤣.
@@Lambros_Stefaneas not sure, but it was the only one they had it stock
Same thing when I find autolite or or Bosch plugs in a Toyota, factory plug are a must.
I have had a few Chryslers that misfired from the incorrect spark plugs. One even set O2 codes that had me chasing my tail for a couple hours since it kept testing good. New plugs fixed them.
Also have seen misfire and throttle body codes from weak batteries, going into limp mode, even though it started the engine thanks to a gear reduction starter, it dropped below 10 volts, started and set codes, but only after sitting over night.
Bad parts is also becoming a bigger problem with each passing day.
Our world, lol.
Speaking of bad new parts,I just had a new ,OEM.Nissan fuel pump installed in my 2015 Altima.It lasted 1 day and the car stalled again and had an engine check light come on.I took it back to my mech,he scanned it and came back with a fuel temp sensor And fuel level sensor.He sent it back to Nissan and got another fuel pump.So far so good.My mech said the same thing about never having seen so many bad new parts.
It is so frustrating and makes us second guess ourselves so much
Awesome video! Thanks for the follow up🙏🏼, never stop learning in our industry.
Test suspect plugs in a Champion spark plug tester. I've had great success finding cracked ceramics in the tester.
Hi paul .i belive the igf generator tide on the igt line inside the ignitor gives the unreal misfires at the en of the video....as its not the acctual confirmation....saw the drawings on a toyota page...maybe working the same way
This may not apply to the data issue you were having here BUT, I’ve been told by two different snap on tech guys that snap on buys it’s data by the line, the pids they didn’t buy has inactive or inaccurate data showing. I was told this while dealing with similar issues with snap on data. I would be curious to see what Autel would show on this vehicle. Chrysler is getting to be a pain with data in the aftermarket and especially with snap on scanners
Using another scanner would have been my first move, just to see what happens. Unfortunately for me I only have one Snap On Modis and a cheapo Actron, so scanner weirdness can be very challenging sometimes. I really need to get into the Autel world since my Modis is now obsolete.
@@athhudwhy is your modis obsolete. I see many techs using modis
👍had a 07 CRD Jeep Liberty that broke some rockers due to a timing belt failure. No injection pulse until everything was reset. Found out the hard way on that one.
Paul this one for you...At the end of the video the misfire is gone but the scanner is still reporting....some ignitors have an inbuilt igf generator to comensate for timing delays i belive .hence the computer is not seeing the real igf signal but the generated one ..saw this on toyota design ignitor
Dan,i think it must've been a patriot you are talking about with the 2.4l.On these 2.4 i get alot of these 1/4 cylinder misfire.especially on the avengers and so forth.when that memory reset dont do the job i do the enumerator reset/clear function and it has you drive the vehicle from 10 mph to 40 mph.it never says complete on my launch.but it always works.since on some of those engines it dont give you ckp/cmp function like that Durango did.thank you for your vids.i learn alot.
Ran into a cylinder 2 misfire on a 2015 Dodge Durango limited with a 3.6. Cylinder 2 ended up having low compression @ 65psi . Scoped the cylinder and the Piston was rusty looking so pressure tested coolant system to see the coolant leak in #2 from the head gasket with the scope.
I've seen milage and cycles be required for a ECM to completely become operational. And both being options on the same car. I've done some "what if's" with one car in particular and it was extremely consistent with the FSM information.
If I pull out the lab scope to look at a single cylinder miss fire i always use at least 2 channels to compare to a good cylinder! I how ever don’t get to use the scope that often the place I work kinda steers me away from using it :( just because of the time it takes but Your videos are very helpful and are getting me a little more proficient at it!
I put a cylinder head on an early 2000;s Honda. Initial issue was a valve and seat failure with a low compression misfire. I finished the job and it ran smooth as glass. However it kept setting a misfire code on the originally bad cylinder. Flashing check engine light ect. I reset the engine adaptives after an hour of scratching my head and it eliminated the problem. I am hypothesizing that the misfire came on so slowly the adaptives learned the misfire as normal operation, and the cylinder suddenly operating differently flagged it as a misfire.
Yes your right we are getting more bad parts, and it frustrates me.
I've used Autolight iridium plugs in every chrysler I've worked on, and never had any problems. What you did comparing the sizes was smart, and is a MUST befor installing replacement plugs . These auto part stores have there spark plug interchange numbers all jacked up, they will tell you a copper plug will work on most engines. 🤦♂️
I am currently going through this exact same issue. Lazy bastards at my mechanics shop have charged me over $1800 dollars over the last 12 months chasing this issue. They did not replace (again) plugs and upper and lower intake o-rings, saying 'we already did that'. Now I am going to do this myself. Start with Plugs (again) and make sure they are OEM and move on from that. Thank you guys!!
did you fix it?
The Courtesy Ford stealership in Oregon also charges for work they don't even do. They lie and deceive for money. They act like there is not a problem if its under warranty so they won't have to pay for it, etc. Shame on those crooks.
Justice served...the shop I was using a while got sued by me and 3 others and since have gone out of business!
In youth working with my dad we never used anything but Champion spark plugs except for Delco plugs for the awful SOHC Vauxhall Bedford slant 4 and Bosch for Mercedes fintails Later I switched to mainly using NGK.
Love the XK150 quietly sitting in the corner istr Champion plug for those was N12Y
Cool intro, Caleb whistling & SD singing "we're back", Love it😍
This case study was great👍
The only thing I'm wondering is that how would the live data on an Autel scanner respond to the parameters reset function, just curious😉
Special thanks to Caleb Danner & James Danner👍
Stay Safe Guy's❤
I don't know which part is better the repair side of the video or the spider side LMAO.Another great video Danner boys until next time stay safe.
9:12 same here. Lotta junk parts in the industry put on 3 alternators on a ford duratec before we got one that wouldn't overcharge.
My understanding is 2018 and above you must register your scan tool with the cloud to view Chrysler data for security purposes. -Reset pcm under Guided diagnostics in witech or battery disconnect and touch terminals. You won’t find info for global disable for this product but you will find misfire monitor disable.
Back in the day, I had more issues with Champion plugs than Autolites in the 3.5s. Cars that had "blown" tranny after tune ups all had Chmpion plugs.
I always try to get dealer parts even though it cost me more it’s worth the less hassle factor of redo
Great Video as always. Nice to see you talk about false miss fire data getting corrected with re-learns. Have seen it here and there. A little confirmation from another source is great. Kind of weird that it is Chrysler that keeps a memory and a good signal can be corrupted by it's adaptives. Reminds me of early OBD II days when people used to disconnect the Battery to clear the Light and (I believe) Chrysler was the worst at learning bad signals to be good. Made troubleshooting a bear... Kind of Curious if the P0302 was a Permanent Code. (Did no pay attention to the year.) Normally when basic codes are cleared, the Fuel, Miss fire, and Component Monitors are set at Key on. Permanent codes keep one of them from being set until a Drive Cycle or 2 has been run without repeat of Code.
Finding your videos very informative. There are many brands I’ve seen I’d rather just change it out
All ya All are awesome, I lived in Chattanooga, Tennessee for 4 yrs. HA! HA!.
lol nice!
I had decent luck with Autolight plugs may be it's luck lol . I not experienced that with Champion plugs which really means nothing. I enjoy your videos great information.
I haven't had any problems with them either. But he's right. For as long as plugs last these days using a top tier plug wouldn't hurt.
autolights are fine in a Ford :-)
Paul. I’ve searched. Page 10 of your book. Watched your video. Why is my iac current high 2004 Durango 4.7 ? It’s like 4000mah. I posted in forum. Please direct me. I fixed the misfire.
What's normal current? What are your symptoms? Not enough info to help
@@ScannerDanner I posted in forum. Dugy401978 posted a picture. 0-1000 normal.
Iac width point 36.98%. Iac total airflow 0.14498 oz/s. That’s all the info my scanner gives me. It’s a two wire plug. I’ve looked for info on if I can test with multi meter. And what those readings should say. Sorry to bug you. Truck runs good since getting rid of misfire by changing plugs. I do have a bad o2 sensor. Fixing to changed those.
See video at 12:20 - ‘dimensional Reach is different on autolite vs OEM plug! ‘ Misfires on #2 were due to good looking plug of different length dimension from OEM . but that bad dimension on the new non oem plug causes that #2 cyl and its injector to misfire. This diagnosis by SD tells me not to trust the aotoparts store saying autolites can replace the oem-recommended plug. . . I’m curious why the DTC code wasn’t I’d ing a P0302 misfire. instead of 00300 ?
You are the man Paul! Thank you.
. your scanner gets the info from global obd data and it froze due to software issues on your scanner, if you had rebooted the scanner it would have worked. Thank you Snapon
No, this was a relearn procedure that needed to be done in this case. Some deceleration events is to going consensus
I’ve been screaming plug at the screen during installment one of this saga. I recently had (and have had) poor Champion plugs more than anything. Most recently, a freshly built motor from a (supposedly) reputable shop in my area. I chased what I thought was an issue with the aftermarket fuel injection system (that’s what the shop chalked it up to before washing their hands of me). I had it to multiple people who made much needed improvements to the install, however, it was not until I dug into it myself that I discovered a CRACKED PLUG!!! Likely been cracked since installed by the shop as it was hidden snugly behind a header and someone probably smacked it with the socket when removing it.
Threw in a fresh round of NGKs and ran beautifully.
NEW means Never Ever Worked in my books, thats why they give warrantys cause things do go bad out the box. But having a misfire idle only issue with a 14 jeep 3.6 right now, it had low compression on driver side and a head was put on by a crack head though. So I pulled the head(it came from junk yard) he had it shaved and compression has come up and misfire isn't as noticeable. The scanner I have shows a misfire counter but isn't picking anything up. It's very frustrating for sure, plugs are champion and look to be newer.
Global disable usually occurs when a code is set in ignition system. Clear codes and retest.
Had a problem with plugs in the 80s with champions there would be 2 or 4 bad plugs in every set so I went to NGK and Bosch
Great video Mr.Danner.
Hi I have a 2007 Liberty 3.7L V6, 117,000 miles. Owned it since 67,000 miles. It operated perfectly for the first 30,000 miles and then it started getting a #1 Cyl misfire code P0301. It also seldomly gets a #1 cyl fuel injector circuit open P0201. It must be a very mild fault as the misfire freeze frame data shows it always happens at less than 350 rpm and when cleared it comes back immediately at next startup, cold or hot. So it seems to only happen once on startup as its moving up to regular idle speed. The miss isnt noticeable when driving or idling. Its getting 15.5 mpg fuel mileage. Doesnt burn oil. Doesnt smoke. Has great power. I've changed plugs and coils but no difference. Cleaned air intake, air filter, and ran cleaner through system. I've cleaned and inspected the injector plug and all wires but no difference. Dry / wet compression test of #1, 3 and 5 cylinders all read good: 160 / 175 psi.
I'm wondering if there's a mild wire defect for that injector, or just a flakey connection somewhere. Has anyone tried to use a new set of compatible gauge wires and run them to a place closer to the injector control? I can't see where the wires go though.
I'm not sure if I should just live with this, or troubleshoot it more. I don’t care about the engine light as we don't have emission requirements. Now that I know the compression is good, I'm not so worried about it.
Any suggestions of what to do next? Thanks!
Get a wiring diagram and disconnect the battery and do a continuity test
Fords need a Neutral Misfire Monitor reset after almost any real work being completed. its something that I personally try to do after almost any repair.
Great case study even if it was "just a bad plug"
I bought a cheap scanner $100 because it had mode 6 data to find misfires on my 04 mustang. I wish I could monitor it live but all I can do is just find random misfires no idea when it resets and is actually looking for them because only time I want to find misfire is at idle
My truck (2014 Dodge Dueango) had the same problem where it would shake when in Idle and especially when we had our AC on. It showed it was misfiring on cylinder 1 and he couldnt figure it out until he found a tiny hole in the coil boot. He replaced it along with the spark plug and that was the end of our problem. Truck has been running great and hasn’t misfired ever since. Hope this helps anyone.
Need help!!!! I have a 94 dodge ram 1500, I replaced the motor and transmission. I do not have a scanner that will read live data. It will not stay running, I must admit I am no mechanic I have replaced many parts in hopes it would b one of them. No luck! I am getting a code 37 which is a torc temp sensor could this b y it is not staying running or am I missing something else. Please help I enjoy this old truck and want to b able to drive it again
When you cleared the "adaptive numerator", it lost it's ability. A couple long decels from like 80 mph should wake it up . Great video
Was that Autolite the right plug for the Durango or did someone make a mistake and put the wrong number plug in it?
I do not know for sure.
Great who done it video. Chased the new parts rabbit down that hole numerous times. Frustrating as hell. I have got to get me a Pico even if it’s only a two channel. Is your brother in the auto restoration business also? Cool cars in his shop.
I just went through this on a dodge avenger 3.6. Turns out it was a new Bosch O2 sensor. Chrysler doesn't do well with Bosch, either misfires, or heater performance codes.
I have a warning video on using Bosch O2s in Chryslers. It's a two part series as to why. Thanks!
I thought we would never get a part 2☺️☺️
It wasn't even a week 😀
I’m pretty sure the misfire drive cycle needs to be completed before the global disable re enables. Interesting video, hand on forehead to autolite plug lol 😂
What kind of secondary ignition probe did you use? Looks awesome!
This was a picoscope COP probe
Picoscope TA-204 is part number
Can you Check the Résistance. On the Plugs with the Original and the New ones , because sometimes Chinese plugs can be way off the specification
No, the ohmmeter is not going to be your friend here
I personally use a milliohmmeter (quite expensive stuff) and compare all plugs before installing : usually at least 1 amongst 8 is out of specs... AC Delco plugs for C4 Vette... which could explain the fire line difference..... extremely good videos!
@@bernarddesanglois8690 Tell me , Every time you replace spam plugs in a car you always check it with milliohs and find a defective in a spark plug set , but tell me what are the specifications in a spark plugs ?? To have an idea
I understand the answer of Mr Danner and he's right but replacing the plugs on a C4 is a real pain if you can't get underneath the car. So if you can eliminate a bad brand new plug before installing you'll save time.
First of all check the discontinuity between positive and negative electrodes (should read infinity) then measure resistance between positive input (top) and positive output (bottom) with milliohmmeter, should read less than 1 Ohm (around 0.01 or less) the goal here being to verify that all your plugs are within the same value. Also verify for cracks in porcelain (isolation) cause, yes, I've had cracked brand new plugs !
And that's where I reach the comment of Mr. Danner : it does not mean the plug will behave as it should when installed. Temperature, dilatation, pressure and air/gas mixture will affect spark duration and strength. Also gap between electrodes is an important factor even if preset by plug manufacturer I always recheck and align to car manufacturer specs.
@@bernarddesanglois8690 thanks for your Information
I wonder if these newer Chryslers can control the fuel trim of a single cylinder and that's why after a repair you need to reset the adaptives.
That was disconcerting... it sounded like Herbert from Family Guy was going to do the intro!😆
Thanks for sharing Paul... Cheers.
You may have figured it out by now but global disable will come on tell all the things you reset relearn also it will come on if it’s below a certain fuel level to keep it from monitoring misfires during that period
There’s a a note in the Service Manual of this car that says: “The Adaptive must be learned before the PCM will run the Mis-Fire Monitor. The PCM updates the Adaptive Numerator at every key-ON, and is relearn after battery disconnect. I’m not sure what that mean…
Auto lite plugs suck. I’ve traced a lot of idle only misfires to many times an autolite plug. I’ll swap it with another plug retest and issue moves elsewhere I then condemn the plug and recommend the right plugs. Or a hey my car keeps going through coils what’s wrong? Uhm hey it could be these cheapO spark plugs. Love the channel, been seeing more and more crappy parts these days does make the life harder.
Are the autolite plugs no good for the Durango v6 2016?
I am having a ruff idle problem. I just did a tune up. The codes after the tune up is P105D, P219B and PO302. After getting the codes I replaced the #2 plug again and ignition coil. Also replaced the MAP sensor. It still idling rough. could it be the autolite plugs?
Was the idle rough before you tuned it up?
Not sure if this is the issue but on some Chrysler’s the misfire monitor will not run until the adaptive numerator has been learned. Saw it in alldata at some point when researching monitor operation. Love your videos, nice work.
in ran autolight xp's grandcaravan for over 10 years no problem i never read that they only make for 1 company
My wife's car, a 2012 Grand Caravan is having the same issue. The shop said they switched the plug and coil to another cylinder, and still got the same response. At this moment, they said they had lost compression on cycl 2. So they are going to remove the head and check for head gasket, or cracks. I don't think the head gasket is a problem. The crankcase oil is clean, no evidence. of water in the oil, and never have to add water/ antifreeze. Never have to add oil and exhaust is clean. I know this is not a expert way of figuring what's wrong, it is just my gut feeling.
This issue was in the mechanics bulletin. This way the dealers will know about it without having a recall. I hope that we will get decent news later today.
At one time, when I was a kid, I was into building engines, setting up carbs on other kids cars. But as time went on, I got into refrigeration and did not keep up with the engines these days. I am sure if I devote time to re-learning, which I am going to do, I will eventuality I will do well with it. Of course, I am not going to buy all of the scanners, ( like a Pico ) or hat ever just to work o my car. Fortunately, A friend of mine has a great shop and he lets me hang around and learn. Car are far more involved these days. Give me 1970 Chevy 396 cu in 375 hp and I will rebuild it for you and make it "crank ". I miss the old days, being at Motion Performance, riding in the second V8 Vega, or the Motion Camaros , Novas, and Chevelles.
Joel Rosen built himself an empire back then. He was a real good guy. I miss him
Will unplugging the battery work to reset my Fords computers?
Sometimes yes, sometimes no, depends on the system and what it is you're actually trying to reset
How much time did you waste by ignoring your experience with secondary ignition misfires?
Lol a lot on this one! But the lack of having the ability to recreate this under snap throttle and load conditions had me looking in other directions. I have to say that this is probably the first bad plug that I've seen, that was an idle only misfire.
I've been banging my head on our Chrysler Pacifica van for about 2 months. #5 Cylinder misfire...I replaced ALL plugs with new Denso iridiums, new Mopar Coil pack for that plug, switched the coil pack but misfire still on #5, did a compression test and got 160 PSI which was very close to the other ones on that bank, did a coolant pressure test and it held 21 PSI for 10 minutes, did a fuel pressure test and got 60 PSI consistently. The ONLY thing I can think of at this point is bad rocker arm or lash adjuster??? Unfortunately this is a Gen 3 VVT VVL engine which is very different from the older Pentastar 3.6s (no vids on how to fix rockers or lash adjusters on a gen 3, just older ones) so I am probably going to have to throw in the white flag and take it to a mechanic. Runs REALLY rough on cold start but then is fine for the rest of the time. Thank you for the video at least, I learned more about how complicated computers are on these systems.
Ive seen intake manifold gaskets leak on a single runner when cold only. May be worth a look.
@@ScannerDanner thank you. I replaced the air intake manifolds as well. I'll inspect over that area though.
Could the idle misfire have come from the plug (Autolite) not being as deep in the cylinder and the spark having been grounding to the head during idle. During load the spark moved deeper into the cylinder thus not showing a misfire.
Absolutely plausible
14:45 the man with the beard is waiting for it to miss...the stress. the other guy seems chilled about it ...as in fixed.
Hello sir my comment is unrelated to this video, but pls can you answer my question on your other video “Nissan Versa code P0705….” I need to know if the customer car got fixed after you replaced the Reverse light bulb, or what happened to the car
I did answer you. That was the fix.
Did you disconnect the scan tool the dlc? I've had to do that to get data back numerous times
That is usually when data is frozen completely and this was only this one mode. But good thought
@@ScannerDanner all I knew to do was to start over fresh. That way I could remove snappy fault from the equation
I've seen a few times on 4cyl Caliber / Patriot false misfire on 2 cylinder simultaneously. Leading to fuel injectors cut and then going into real dead misfires.
The shop would change every damn part without fixing anything.
I get called in. First thing.. clear memory. Then I'm done in 2min. Fixed.
Notorious on 4cyl dodge engine.
Everytime you replace a part on those, you should always clear memory.
The reason for the Reset fixing the issue is the Crank Cam has wear on it and the timing gets off resetting the Memory forces it to relearn the new position on the timing so the computer learns the new worn position on the timing System Basically the timing as the Engine wears needs a reset even GM has this issue
if I were you I would recommend replacing all the spark plugs. the burn times indicate to me other misfires will occur down the road and or we could see another coil burnout.
of course, but this was not our customer, this was from another shop who wanted to know exactly why it was misfiring. That was the extent of our job
Excellent video thank you 😊 🙏
Only suggestion I have is maybe look at global data and see if the misfire monitor had set and check codes afterward to prove it was done.