350 4 bolt main block with 307/327 crankshaft AKA 327
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- Опубліковано 29 сер 2024
- 350 sbc destroyed to a 327
327/307 crankshaft l98 heads ,
If you want to change up the stoke on your everyday cruiser to the legendary 327
Might Mouse this is the way to do it. 10 to 1 compression 330 hp maybe.
This is the way. Like it dislike it . your call.
I ran that exact set up back in about 1987…. 350 4 bolt with a 327 .010/.010 crank. Fully balanced rotating assembly. Standard bore 10:1 JE’s with 1.94/1.50 double hump heads with screw in studs and guide plates and Manley valves. Solid Isky cam z-28 grind with crane roller rockers. It was in a ‘69 chevelle w/turbo 400 and 4:11 12 bolt posi. It was the most fun car I’ve ever owned. Won a lot of beer money street racing SoCal back in the day. 😁
I know some guys teenagers when we were kids, they put a small journal 283 crank into a small journal 327, thinking they're going to make a lot of RPM, but they're short come was no compression. Yes it would wind up standing still but no power. Even when it had the old fashioned power pack head's. 3 inch stroke to 3.25 in stroke eagles Pistons sitting down in the bore about a 1/8 of an inch.
By the way something 307 blocks can be bore out to 350. Industrial 307 crank is made for a lightweights pistons.
Those are the kind of cars that win in a Head On Collision 😁
The only concern might be factory balance on the crank. The smaller 307 pistons the crank was factory balanced to is lighter than the 327 pistons you will be using. I dont think it will be a problem in stock application.
I had the same concern. I ended up sending it out to get it rebalanced . I also used lighter rod pins .
Better hang on to that 283. They're getting harder to find here. I have one setting under the bench I won't sell. I'm building a 327 large journal right now. Great motor with the Vortec 906 heads and a decent cam but I hear what you're saying about using up what ya got. Looked like double hump heads on the one under the bench. I'd think twice about getting rid of that one too. Good job.
The 283 is now drained of fluids along with the powerglide wrapped in plastic in corner of my garage, along with the camel hump headed 350
Although I did just sell a set of vortec heads.
I ended up installing the Zz4 heads do to 58cc chambers. Running 2"
Exhaust with glass packs
And air horn manifolds
I drive my chevelle every day and it never gets old
@@realsteelmotorcars2894 those old double hump heads are still great for street use for a daily driver. Getting harder to find those classics for a decent price. I think I just found a set of Vortec 062s I’m gonna pick up for the large journal build if they check out good. I’m gonna try and push it up there a little more and I’m still contemplating injection with some boost. Might just run it ol skool though. Not planning to drag the 55 at this point. You’re smart for hanging on to those motors.
@@xxxnonamexxx5615
55 chevy bad ass ride
I would definitely go with EFI injection check out my video on my el camino, I can tell you with the MSD
Atomic efi you pick up a lot of throttle response off the line. Higher rpms about even. Too many choices
For sure but if you already have a carburetor you can always upgrade later.
I also have a 383 in the corner of the garage that
Has edelbrock heads on it
Been looking for a short bed C10 in good shape that I can put that one in.
Anyway go with a. 025
Head gasket for the build
327 10 to 1 compression
Is the way to go. 25 stall
Speed will make it a nice everyday driver...
My God hold the camera still
I know, right? And it sounds like he's holding one of those paper thin noisy water bottles.
Try to run a hydraulic roller cam in it and use the roads lifters with the bleed down hole and then you should get better gas mileage when you're cruising on the highway
I just installed the flat tappet RV camshaft .450 lift . If this engine gives me 16 mpg or better I might try my luck with a roller
Vortec block convert to a 2 piece rear main seal, and 307 crankshaft.
Honestly, why more "professional" engine builders don't use Rhoads lifters or Crane variable duration lifters is beyond me--this version of "VTEC, yo!" has been around since the 1960's. they've outlasted the "Varicam" idea of springs inside the timing gear to reduce lift and therefore duration below 3,500 rpm. You get a milder cam at highway RPMs, you get more vacuum for brakes, better idle to run AC, and when you wing it past 3,500 rpm you get back your rowdy cam. you'll lose that race car idle, but it's a small price to pay to run a "3/4rs" cam in a daily driver and get away with it in traffic on a 90 degree day.
I have a .490/260 duration split cam in an olds 455--with a 3:1 rear gear ratio, i can leave the manual valve body THM400 in top gear (1:1 ratio) and still pull away from dead stop to 5,500 rpm redline and drive all day like that for 15 mpg.
@@albertgaspar627 Used them on hft cams since the 80s. High quality dont fail and do as claimed.
Too many today dont even know theres way better cam companies than comp
Good info
Also want to build a 327,so I can use 350 Blick and 327 crank, wich rods and pistons?
@REALSTEEL MOTORCARS 350 block I mean with 327 crank
@@200horsepower okay yes you can do that 350 BlOck and a 327 crankshaft as long as it not a small journal 327 1962-1967 283 and 327
Main journal size too small
So you would need a medium/large journal
That came out in 1968 -1969 327 and 307 from 1968 - 1973 cast iron
They are good for a street
Motor under 400 hp .
Look for a set of camel
Hump head 64 cc vortec heads 64cc or you could even put low budget 305 heads 58cc 10 to 1 comp
Power pack heads 58cc
I went with zz4 heads 58cc
Aluminum that flow as good as the camel humps
They are low budget HP
The key to this type of build is I-beam rods 585 grams and good flat top pistons. 2 or 4 bolt mains
64cc or less heads
Yes I ran a 327 drag racing, you're better off building a 350 it's like a stroker 327.
I'm sure you meant "destroked" not "destroyed to a 327" but in a way you aren't wrong. Give a 350 the parts folks enjoy sticking on a 327 and you've made a better street engine--ie, torque below 6,000 rpm. when people say an engine "feels strong" what they really mean is it makes torque in the 3,000-4,000 rpm range, and it feels strong since after every shift, the engine returns to the RPM range where the torque is not missing. a 307 crank is often a cast crank (narrow parting line) to go with 4 bolt mains, but when playing with stock crank swaps (your 305 blocks have the 350 stroke but are balanced differently so use a 305 balance and flywheel) remember the journal sizes changed in 1968, otherwise you'll need oversized bearings to match things up. hopefully at least one of those 305's have uncracked Vortec heads. That on a 283 with the 270 hp cam will get you at least 250 hp on pump gas compression ratio--the real problem will be the factory 2 speed automatic :) a THM700R4 will make even 250 hp seem like something.
smaller displacement can make for better fuel economy, as well as higher compression, but increasing displacement helps make the more torque at lower rpm (all other things being equal), so you don't need to step on the gas to pass--which will help fuel economy. the aluminum heads will help give you a point more compression on pump gas and that'll help make the engine 4% more efficient.
I swapped out the power glide for a 200r4 that pulls hard through all 4 gears and if I can keep my foot off the gas pedal I get good fuel economy, big if
I also built a .40 over 350
With flat top pistons
.440 lift cam and camel
Hump heads as a backup
Out of engine parts taking up space in the garage.
The 327 was again just parts taking up space ,
I also have a 383 sitting in the garage with edelbrock heads and .500 lift cam
Tire shredder gas hog ...
But in The end it might end up with a 283 with 305 heads also taking up space in the garage. I have other cars to drive but the 64 ss is my every day driver . So fuel economy is a concern.
@@realsteelmotorcars2894 I hear what you're saying, I'm finally running outa room for everything "that followed me home" and I know the smartest thing to do is sell off what won't make torque and just build an engine that makes torque at low RPM and lasts longer as a result and gets good gas mileage.
but there's just that lure to put together stuff that doesn't belong together and just see what happens, right? :)
I have a dissassembled 283 shortblock i got in a swap, i know if i run the numbers on it i might get lucky and its worth something....or its some 2bbl impala engine. Still i want to find a Vega and a powerglide to stuff the 283 into, just to say i finally had one since i'm old enough to remember these things.
i hear you about fuel economy, i parked my 15 mpg big block 442 this summer for the 42 mpg Ford Escort with no AC. i suffered in the humidity but did some good road trips otherwise.
@@albertgaspar627 have you seen other videos on my channel you might have noticed. Mixing and matching. Jeep steering box , S10 brakes gbody 200r4 transmission 350 block 307 crankshaft on
1964 Chevelle
@@realsteelmotorcars2894 I'll have to look at your videos sometime. As you said, a lot of "modern" stuff can be put on an A body before going to a $5,000 Pro Touring frame setup delivered in the mail. On a side issue (b/c on 1980's G bodies the Cherokee steering shaft and S10 brakes and digital dash are common swaps) I was just watching some commentary on buying a manual rack and pinion setup for a Foxbody Mustang (I bought one back when they were still cheap) from Flaming River for some stupid price--far cheaper to just nab a 1979 OEM unit or from a Fairmont. Someone claimed to work for FR, and that they sold in bulk to Summit so between that and not paying for advertising one could get a rack stamped FR from Summit for $400 less.
personally, i find it fun to look for the deals rather than shelling out the cash, but it's those "checkwriter rodders" who create a demand for companies to afford to make some good aftermarket designs.
@@albertgaspar627 ya just buying bunch of high dollar aftermarket stuff takes the hot rod out of building a muscle car. To me its the journey . Getting a 30 year old part off of one car cleaning and painting
It and bolting it on a 50 year old car .
No offense, your camera technique makes me dizzy.
I'm not a professional youtube guy . Just a low budget phone and nothing better to do than mix and match chevy parts .
@@realsteelmotorcars2894 ,
I'm looking for a 283 !
or
283 Crank
Got 906 Vortex heads
4 bolt main blocks
Power pack heads
327 block
Chevy Parts etc .
And three 66 Chevelle cars