Very Nicely done.. Plain to the Pint work, with a substantial, long lasting product. Congratulations on your Creation - nice curve, nice angle on the edge. I would have taken the old one, and rehabbed it. It was great to see you take the file and Turn it to your needs, and watch as it as a finished Draw knife, did the task you needed. With your accent I hope you dont take this the wrong way - but a Great bit of 'yankee' ingenuity!
First thing you should have bought the file to a cherry red heat & let it cool. This is to anneal the 62 HSC, so It would be easier to work & less wear on your tools.
Nice to see an Irish lad havin a go, was thinkin of havin a go myself, havin watched Wranglerstar's stuff. A couple of questions Raven if you don't mind. Where'd you get your original draw knife, I've never come across one here in Ireland. When you said you weren't going to re-temper the blade would that not defeat the purpose of using a file, would ordinary mild steel not do. I was just trying to work out what to used myself. And how did it work out for you afterwards. Thanks
That really came out perfectly. A great project nicely done. I didn't see any sort of hardening and tempering after you heated the file to glowing red though. I was under the impression that after such a heat the steel would return to an annealed state thus dramatically diminishing the edge holding capabilities. Did you find this to be the case? Does it work well? I am making a slightly curved one like yours as well as a straight bladed one for use on flat stock. Thanks for the great video.
That looks good. I'm not trying to sound bad but you made yours upside down. The bevel faces the wood. It gives total control of depth of cut. That short little bevel rocks so in one pull you can dig deep then ease upward on handles to thin your chip. That's how you make contours in the middle of what your drawing. While a kid an old, very old wheel rite let me hang around and he would teach me. There is times when you'll need the flat side down tho. Hope this came across in a good manner. Sure wasn't trying to be a jerk. If your welds don't break from being 2 totally different alloys that should become another antique itself. I love home shop made tools.
Nope. Raven ground the bevel in the correct place. I have several draw knives and use them regularly to debark logs and shape wood pieces. The antique one is correct, as are the new ones currently available commercially, as is the one that Raven made. The bevel faces AWAY from the wood and the correct way to use it is with the flat side facing down on the wood, drawing the knife towards you, shaving a thin slice of wood (or bark) away from the log with each pass. Nicely done!!
A personal preference: I prefer the flat ones to the ones with a slight curve - I have the same control and (when I want to) I can take a bigger bite of the wood with the flat ones.
propane cylinder is actually a butane cylinder i converted to an air pig (reserve air tank for my compressor. petrol cans are empty thats why theyre waitin near the door so i wont forget to bring them with me for a refill, thanks for watchin,,
Have you took the handles and applied apoxy to them yet to keep them attached? And I believe the bend you see in the blade is a natural bend from years of usage.
Hi, great job, I must admit, I also like the old one, I have a couple myself, not that I made of course, I do fancy havin a go now you have made the video, you made it all look so easy, although I am sure its not. What is the name of the maker on your old one there, not by chance an Alex Mathieson by chance, I like the handles, I am sure that form would of only been added to a quality draw knife. Re the one you made, how have you found the weld holds up, me being a novice, I know I can unintentionally end up trying to take great chunks off with my knife, thanks to the craftmanship of them, they do manage but with a groan on some of the heavier timbers, Yew & laburnum. I would like to hang onto my older ones and replace them with some home made ones, Thanks again for the video, I enjoyed them both
Im afraid i cant read the marks on the old one, im half afraid to clean it up,one of the welds broke loose one time due to the difference in steels(im guessin). but i re welded it more carefully and its been fine since. i find the sharper you keep them the less likely i am to peel chunks, Thanks for watchin and your kind words, Raven
Thanks for showing that. How does the handles stay on without wiggling loose after time of use? The angle that you measured, was that the bevel angle or was that the slope of the thickness of the blade from the sharpened end to the spine? Very neat idea. Peace, Reese
I making one but I was wondering what was the angle bend in the blade. What length was the handles. I have a 12 inch file. I don't have rod Iron. But what I do have is a spring still lever off and old lawn mower I have cut them off to 5" they both have 1" bend in them. not sure if I will have enough clearance with only 1" bens of the end of the Blade. I may have cut them two short.This is my first attempt to make a Draw knife, so any help will be appreciated TB.
yes it prob heats up the file, it does not get red hot, it does not alter the structure of the file, as you may have noticed i heated the file to red hot any way in order to put a curve in it, even then its a drawknife,, for shaving wood .it has not been altered to the point where it will not hold an edge and/or work as a drawknife for shaving wood ,thanks for watchin man!!
does that propane cylinder have anything in it? Does them petrol cans have any petrol in them? That's a "hey y'all watch this " moment. It's how people die.
A spoke shave is MUCH smaller. If you are using this on large logs or even medium sized branches, this draw knife is the tool of choice - it is much more efficient than a spoke shave. I've used spoke shaves too.
Why do somany people take off the safetyguards off their angle grinders? I am a metalworker for 25 years now and I never needed to take it off! Work safe!
Pure class, and it works like a dream! Thank you Raven for all your efforts and for uploading this. Inspiring.
Its very interesting watching you---
Thats really cool man!
Very Nicely done.. Plain to the Pint work, with a substantial, long lasting product. Congratulations on your Creation - nice curve, nice angle on the edge. I would have taken the old one, and rehabbed it. It was great to see you take the file and Turn it to your needs, and watch as it as a finished Draw knife, did the task you needed. With your accent I hope you dont take this the wrong way - but a Great bit of 'yankee' ingenuity!
Thank you for your kind words, and thanks for watching, (no offence taken at all, im quite fond of the east coast)
Raven croak LOL
nice work
First thing you should have bought the file to a cherry red heat & let it cool.
This is to anneal the 62 HSC, so It would be easier to work & less wear on your tools.
NICE WORK
Nice to see an Irish lad havin a go, was thinkin of havin a go myself, havin watched Wranglerstar's stuff. A couple of questions Raven if you don't mind. Where'd you get your original draw knife, I've never come across one here in Ireland. When you said you weren't going to re-temper the blade would that not defeat the purpose of using a file, would ordinary mild steel not do. I was just trying to work out what to used myself. And how did it work out for you afterwards. Thanks
That really came out perfectly. A great project nicely done.
I didn't see any sort of hardening and tempering after you heated the file to glowing red though. I was under the impression that after such a heat the steel would return to an annealed state thus dramatically diminishing the edge holding capabilities.
Did you find this to be the case? Does it work well? I am making a slightly curved one like yours as well as a straight bladed one for use on flat stock. Thanks for the great video.
That looks good. I'm not trying to sound bad but you made yours upside down. The bevel faces the wood. It gives total control of depth of cut. That short little bevel rocks so in one pull you can dig deep then ease upward on handles to thin your chip. That's how you make contours in the middle of what your drawing. While a kid an old, very old wheel rite let me hang around and he would teach me. There is times when you'll need the flat side down tho. Hope this came across in a good manner. Sure wasn't trying to be a jerk. If your welds don't break from being 2 totally different alloys that should become another antique itself. I love home shop made tools.
Well if u did so dis the makers of my antique one . I copued its shape exactly.
Nope. Raven ground the bevel in the correct place. I have several draw knives and use them regularly to debark logs and shape wood pieces. The antique one is correct, as are the new ones currently available commercially, as is the one that Raven made. The bevel faces AWAY from the wood and the correct way to use it is with the flat side facing down on the wood, drawing the knife towards you, shaving a thin slice of wood (or bark) away from the log with each pass.
Nicely done!!
A personal preference: I prefer the flat ones to the ones with a slight curve - I have the same control and (when I want to) I can take a bigger bite of the wood with the flat ones.
nice!
propane cylinder is actually a butane cylinder i converted to an air pig (reserve air tank for my compressor. petrol cans are empty thats why theyre waitin near the door so i wont forget to bring them with me for a refill, thanks for watchin,,
Have you took the handles and applied apoxy to them yet to keep them attached? And I believe the bend you see in the blade is a natural bend from years of usage.
Hi, great job, I must admit, I also like the old one, I have a couple myself, not that I made of course, I do fancy havin a go now you have made the video, you made it all look so easy, although I am sure its not.
What is the name of the maker on your old one there, not by chance an Alex Mathieson by chance, I like the handles, I am sure that form would of only been added to a quality draw knife.
Re the one you made, how have you found the weld holds up, me being a novice, I know I can unintentionally end up trying to take great chunks off with my knife, thanks to the craftmanship of them, they do manage but with a groan on some of the heavier timbers, Yew & laburnum. I would like to hang onto my older ones and replace them with some home made ones, Thanks again for the video, I enjoyed them both
Im afraid i cant read the marks on the old one, im half afraid to clean it up,one of the welds broke loose one time due to the difference in steels(im guessin). but i re welded it more carefully and its been fine since. i find the sharper you keep them the less likely i am to peel chunks, Thanks for watchin and your kind words,
Raven
good stuf, do i know you from somewhwere else ?
Thanks for showing that. How does the handles stay on without wiggling loose after time of use? The angle that you measured, was that the bevel angle or was that the slope of the thickness of the blade from the sharpened end to the spine? Very neat idea. Peace, Reese
Rebar i used has ridges that aid grip in handles. I used the bevel angle
I making one but I was wondering what was the angle bend in the blade. What length was the handles. I have a 12 inch file. I don't have rod Iron. But what I do have is a spring still lever off and old lawn mower I have cut them off to 5" they both have 1" bend in them. not sure if I will have enough clearance with only 1" bens of the end of the Blade. I may have cut them two short.This is my first attempt to make a Draw knife, so any help will be appreciated TB.
Great video but I was wondering how long the blade was
10 inches
So did I my video was full but after I heat and bend mine to get the Angle. did u REHARDEN THE DRAW KNIFE AFTER OR BEFORE U PUT THE HANDLES ON? THANKS
I didnt bother to reharden it. Its only used on axe handles etc and it works fine
wouldn't corn or olive oil work just as good?
--grinding the file heats up the file-----so doesn't that weaken the file??? Do you quench it AFTER your completely through??
yes it prob heats up the file, it does not get red hot, it does not alter the structure of the file, as you may have noticed i heated the file to red hot any way in order to put a curve in it, even then its a drawknife,, for shaving wood .it has not been altered to the point where it will not hold an edge and/or work as a drawknife for shaving wood ,thanks for watchin man!!
What was the angle of the edge?
not sure i just pulled it off with an adjustable bevel gauge
does that propane cylinder have anything in it? Does them petrol cans have any petrol in them? That's a "hey y'all watch this " moment. It's how people die.
grate that u had ago but spoke shave will do same thing
yes it would,, if i had one that is,,
A spoke shave is MUCH smaller. If you are using this on large logs or even medium sized branches, this draw knife is the tool of choice - it is much more efficient than a spoke shave. I've used spoke shaves too.
jeez J , its deccied< changed my youtube name a while ago to somethin a bit easier to remember,
Why do somany people take off the safetyguards off their angle grinders? I am a metalworker for 25 years now and I never needed to take it off! Work safe!
I think you can make it yourself, just loook and learn from woodprix .
i knew you had a fecking farmilier head on ye,. ha.
disregard my last comment