Great video! I strongly recommend anyone who wants to use an MR with their Leica to watch this video FIRST. It's much better than the instruction manual.
Thanks for a clear and detailed how-to on this meter. My MR arrived today from Leica Miami for my M-A and M3 so was looking for good instruction. I had read complaints from some about the MR scratching the camera, too bad they had not seen your great review! I have had a VCII meter for years but can't count how many times I have made the settings on the meter then not transfer them to the camera! Mine came with a new 1.35V battery and am impressed with the meter's accuracy after all these years.
My MR4 just came back from repairs in Germany made by Knoch Messgeraete GmbH. They replaced the electronic baseboard with one that will accommodate the PX 625 1.5v battery a bit better. While I'm in Canada, the cost to me was 143 Euros. The meter is far more responsive than it ever has been. I've used it on my Leica M4 for about 40 years..
I have this meter myself, and I love it, it works great, I do use the MR9 battery adapter, which take a standard watch battery (SR43) and steps the voltage down to the correct 1.35v. Most of the time I do not have the meter mounted, I leave it in my pocket, as I prefer the look of the camera without it, but it is nice to have it, because it is so compact.
Good video. I am looking for a MR for my M2 I have an MC I got off ebay and the previous owner put some small felt pads on the underneath of the meter so it does not scratch the top plate of my M2.
One trick you can use to avoid scratching the top of your camera is to insert a piece of paper -- or a post-it note -- between the top plate of the camera and the MR meter when sliding it on or off.
one thing is missing from this video and that is that the shutter speed wheel is on a baonet type fitting. so when set to b and it moves up and down it can be pushed up and then turned further locking it in the up position. This will allow you to open the battery door and fit it without having to worry about lifting the wheel. To engage the mechanism simply turn it back to B and it drops engaging with the shutter speed dial.
I just got my first Leica (M2) with the Leicameter MR, this video really helped me how to put it on my Leica, thank you! I have a question how do you change the ISO on the Leicameter MR? I tried to rotate from the above and it doesnt move anywhere (the ISO). If you have any clues that would be helpful :) Thanks!
I'm sure you have your reasons for buying the M-A (I have an M3 DS, so I know), but at the current price for a new Leica M-A (USD 4695 at BH Photo) why not pay another $100 and get a Leica MP (USD 4795), which has a built in meter, instead of an external meter? This is just an honest question out of curiosity, and I'm not trolling.
I am looking for a shoe mounted light meter for my Nikon F5, am i right in thinking this will work with any film camera aslong as it has a show mount? thanks, video very helpful
Can you assist with some troubleshooting. I have an MR with a new 1.5 battery. Problem: when I push the test button, the meter stays pretty much stationery. It does not move to the white dot and turning the calibrating screw does not move it there. Some times when I move the light meter button, the needle moves around but sometimes not. Any ideas?
This is really helpful. I am thinking to get a Leica MDa which doesn’t have a viewfinder at all, do you think I can use both the external viewfinder and the light meter at the same time?
I've got a proper desk clamp arm thing ...so the camera is at a better angle and have a new mobile Samsung s9 phone...but still using the same Rode microphone. Only thing is i need to position it better so the sound volume doesn't change as I move my head. Thanks for noticing Matie
@@dangerpowers123 Oh that's right! I forgot about your new clamp. To help with varying volumes, you might want to pick up a cheap compressor. I use software when mixing my audio through my DAW, but there is small external units made by Behringer for mics that are inexpensive.
So if you get a good one and use the right batteries its great. Plus it can be calibrated fairly easily. I've been using a modern battery where the voltage is not quite right... And so found it spot on in normal light. But in bright light it's a bit out. I've as an M2 owner embraced the past two months sunny 16 instead. I check if what I'm working out is right ...by using an app on my phone.
Hey, Im a little bit confused because the leicameter I have does not have a thing to put a battery in, but it still works anybody know how this black magic works?
Sure, so not all need a battery, some use a selenium cell. It's from memory a liquid that's sensitive to light and creatives a small electrical charge when exposes to light. So the selenium acts like a battery.
Let’s say I have 400 ASA film, then I dial that 400 in on the meter.. Now let’s say, I usually shoot w/ a shutter speed of 250, so I turn the dial to 250 (while the meter is on top).. Now let’s say at this point NOW I hit the button to meter.. Let’s say it says f4.0, and I change my lense from f5.6 (or whatever it’s on) to the 4.0 the meter said.. At this point, snapping the photo should be all good right ?!
If it will fit. Then you can use it. But the shutter dial won't engage with the shutter dial on the camera. But it's still fine to use just mirror the settings it gives you onto the camera ..you could even just hold the meter, use it and put it in your pocket when you don't need it as a hand meter
You should not use alkaline batteries, they have a gradual voltage drop that will give you inaccurate readings over time. The zero adjustment is not appropriate to adjust the voltage. Get an adaptor, they cost a fiver at most and use P675 hearing aid batteries. They do not last long once opened but they have almost the same voltage as the original mercury cells. They only become unreliable in very dry weather (not a problem in the UK). Alkaline batteries are fine to see if it's working, but not for use. More complex instruments that take several batteries have voltage stabilisers and can use alkaline cells with impunity.
I forgot to add, the voltage drop curves on mercury cells, zinc-air cells (hearing aid batteries) and silver oxide cells (SR44 rather than LR44 for example) have very flat discharge curves, they will give accurate readings until they suddenly die. Mercury (no longer available) and silver oxide last a long time but zinc-air does not and you should always carry a spare.
At video 3:17 "calibrate it" Not true, That's the NULL adjust (No battery INstalled adjust).. - At video 8:34 "a bit tricky" - Not true. You need to follow the instructions & the diagram; put it to 'B' but then ALSO spin it counter-clockwise (this locks the speed dial of the meter to UP position). - This UP is also necessary when changing battery. This because the plastic sliding cap is age fragile & sometimes prone to 'tearing'. So be careful, no resistance/tugging; this is essential (They're no longer available). - Finally, not only is the Alkaline battery the wrong voltage, but they leak without warning ! Stick with the more stable 'Silver' formula batteries using the step-down adapters...
What I've read is that meter bases on the middle part ...the 90mm frame lines... That's about the area it uses to meter. So it's sort of almost like spot metering. So as long as you know it's using the centre area for metering..then it doesn't matter if you using a 28, 35, 50 etc .lens.
Great video! I strongly recommend anyone who wants to use an MR with their Leica to watch this video FIRST. It's much better than the instruction manual.
Thank you, that's very kind.
Thanks for a clear and detailed how-to on this meter. My MR arrived today from Leica Miami for my M-A and M3 so was looking for good instruction. I had read complaints from some about the MR scratching the camera, too bad they had not seen your great review! I have had a VCII meter for years but can't count how many times I have made the settings on the meter then not transfer them to the camera! Mine came with a new 1.35V battery and am impressed with the meter's accuracy after all these years.
That's the coolest meter I've seen yet.
My MR4 just came back from repairs in Germany made by Knoch Messgeraete GmbH. They replaced the electronic baseboard with one that will accommodate the PX 625 1.5v battery a bit better. While I'm in Canada, the cost to me was 143 Euros. The meter is far more responsive than it ever has been. I've used it on my Leica M4 for about 40 years..
Happy I found this video, my new (to me) M2 has a meter (selenium) but no instructions. I now know how to fit it and will test it. Thanks again.
Great stuff
Did it work?
Very good man! Thank you. Very clear and to the point. Very helpful
Thanks so much for the Video, just borrowed a Leica m4-P with the meter and i wasnt quite sure what the two dots were for, now i know! Thanks again!
No worries .glad it helped
I have this meter myself, and I love it, it works great, I do use the MR9 battery adapter, which take a standard watch battery (SR43) and steps the voltage down to the correct 1.35v. Most of the time I do not have the meter mounted, I leave it in my pocket, as I prefer the look of the camera without it, but it is nice to have it, because it is so compact.
I'm going to have to get the SR43 adaptor, thanks for the tip
Thank you. It was very helpful.
Good video. I am looking for a MR for my M2 I have an MC I got off ebay and the previous owner put some small felt pads on the underneath of the meter so it does not scratch the top plate of my M2.
This was extremely helpful. Thank you for posting this!
No worries
One trick you can use to avoid scratching the top of your camera is to insert a piece of paper -- or a post-it note -- between the top plate of the camera and the MR meter when sliding it on or off.
Good tip.
Great video, thanks.
Adjusting the screws is to match the meter field to the 90 mm viewfinder frame! NOT to clear the camera. Put on a little self-adhesive felt paper.
one thing is missing from this video and that is that the shutter speed wheel is on a baonet type fitting. so when set to b and it moves up and down it can be pushed up and then turned further locking it in the up position. This will allow you to open the battery door and fit it without having to worry about lifting the wheel. To engage the mechanism simply turn it back to B and it drops engaging with the shutter speed dial.
Thank you - I keep forgetting about the lock mechanism.
thanks for showing, that was indeed helpfull
No worries. Happy it helped
Very useful, thanks.
No worries
I just got my first Leica (M2) with the Leicameter MR, this video really helped me how to put it on my Leica, thank you!
I have a question how do you change the ISO on the Leicameter MR?
I tried to rotate from the above and it doesnt move anywhere (the ISO).
If you have any clues that would be helpful :)
Thanks!
Good stuff. I'm saving up for a Leica M-A, so I might get one of these, too.
I'm sure you have your reasons for buying the M-A (I have an M3 DS, so I know), but at the current price for a new Leica M-A (USD 4695 at BH Photo) why not pay another $100 and get a Leica MP (USD 4795), which has a built in meter, instead of an external meter? This is just an honest question out of curiosity, and I'm not trolling.
where does the light go to to be read by the meter?
I am looking for a shoe mounted light meter for my Nikon F5, am i right in thinking this will work with any film camera aslong as it has a show mount? thanks, video very helpful
what's the nomenclature for the battery?
Can you assist with some troubleshooting. I have an MR with a new 1.5 battery. Problem: when I push the test button, the meter stays pretty much stationery. It does not move to the white dot and turning the calibrating screw does not move it there. Some times when I move the light meter button, the needle moves around but sometimes not. Any ideas?
Can the MR4 fit on film cameras other than Leicas?
This is really helpful. I am thinking to get a Leica MDa which doesn’t have a viewfinder at all, do you think I can use both the external viewfinder and the light meter at the same time?
Unfortunately not...the single shoe mount means you have to use one or the other but not both
Did you upgrade your video and sound quality? Seems improved.
I've got a proper desk clamp arm thing ...so the camera is at a better angle and have a new mobile Samsung s9 phone...but still using the same Rode microphone. Only thing is i need to position it better so the sound volume doesn't change as I move my head. Thanks for noticing Matie
@@dangerpowers123 Oh that's right! I forgot about your new clamp. To help with varying volumes, you might want to pick up a cheap compressor. I use software when mixing my audio through my DAW, but there is small external units made by Behringer for mics that are inexpensive.
@@filmismorefun thanks
That battery EPX625G Alkaline 1.5V is not accurate for the leica meter, you need an adapter MR-9 which converts to 1.35v
Agree. I'm for the moment not using the meter and embracing sunny 16. But will be getting the MR-9 / adaptor for 1.35v soon.
Perfect
How accurate is this meter in daylight and night time
So if you get a good one and use the right batteries its great. Plus it can be calibrated fairly easily. I've been using a modern battery where the voltage is not quite right... And so found it spot on in normal light. But in bright light it's a bit out.
I've as an M2 owner embraced the past two months sunny 16 instead. I check if what I'm working out is right ...by using an app on my phone.
Another thing you can do is use the sunny 16 rule.
Pretty much what I do these days, sunny 16 and if I'm not sure I check it with a meter app on my phone
Hey, Im a little bit confused because the leicameter I have does not have a thing to put a battery in, but it still works
anybody know how this black magic works?
Sure, so not all need a battery, some use a selenium cell. It's from memory a liquid that's sensitive to light and creatives a small electrical charge when exposes to light. So the selenium acts like a battery.
@@dangerpowers123 well thats interesting
I call that magic
Thx for the help btw
Let’s say I have 400 ASA film, then I dial that 400 in on the meter.. Now let’s say, I usually shoot w/ a shutter speed of 250, so I turn the dial to 250 (while the meter is on top).. Now let’s say at this point NOW I hit the button to meter.. Let’s say it says f4.0, and I change my lense from f5.6 (or whatever it’s on) to the 4.0 the meter said.. At this point, snapping the photo should be all good right ?!
Yes, the meter will tell you the aperture to use. So you then chanfs the aperture on the lens ..and it will be exposed ok.
@@dangerpowers123 Awesome !!! I figured as much but just wanted to check. Thanks for your work / content, keep going ! Appreciate you.
@@TopshelfJunior aye no worries ..thank you
What is the highest iso you can set on it?
On my one it's 3200
can I actually use this on a Konica T3 with hot shoes?
If it will fit. Then you can use it. But the shutter dial won't engage with the shutter dial on the camera. But it's still fine to use just mirror the settings it gives you onto the camera ..you could even just hold the meter, use it and put it in your pocket when you don't need it as a hand meter
You should not use alkaline batteries, they have a gradual voltage drop that will give you inaccurate readings over time. The zero adjustment is not appropriate to adjust the voltage. Get an adaptor, they cost a fiver at most and use P675 hearing aid batteries. They do not last long once opened but they have almost the same voltage as the original mercury cells. They only become unreliable in very dry weather (not a problem in the UK). Alkaline batteries are fine to see if it's working, but not for use. More complex instruments that take several batteries have voltage stabilisers and can use alkaline cells with impunity.
I forgot to add, the voltage drop curves on mercury cells, zinc-air cells (hearing aid batteries) and silver oxide cells (SR44 rather than LR44 for example) have very flat discharge curves, they will give accurate readings until they suddenly die. Mercury (no longer available) and silver oxide last a long time but zinc-air does not and you should always carry a spare.
A few months after making this video I did decide to use as you describe hearing aid batteries with an adaptor 👍🏻 found them for sale on eBay.
At video 3:17 "calibrate it" Not true, That's the NULL adjust (No battery INstalled adjust).. - At video 8:34 "a bit tricky" - Not true. You need to follow the instructions & the diagram; put it to 'B' but then ALSO spin it counter-clockwise (this locks the speed dial of the meter to UP position). - This UP is also necessary when changing battery. This because the plastic sliding cap is age fragile & sometimes prone to 'tearing'. So be careful, no resistance/tugging; this is essential (They're no longer available). - Finally, not only is the Alkaline battery the wrong voltage, but they leak without warning ! Stick with the more stable 'Silver' formula batteries using the step-down adapters...
And how to switch complete OFF?
It's off by default, it only comes on when you press the switch ... It takes a light meter reading and turns back off again
@@dangerpowers123 and how long take one battery ? 3 day or more longer?
nevermind.
Man, sound of your clip is really terrible....
are these useable with any focal length ? or are these made for a specific focal length, f.e. 50mm?
Anything
What I've read is that meter bases on the middle part ...the 90mm frame lines... That's about the area it uses to meter. So it's sort of almost like spot metering. So as long as you know it's using the centre area for metering..then it doesn't matter if you using a 28, 35, 50 etc .lens.