Sunny 16 is the photographers cheat code! As long as you follow this rule you'll be able to get good exposures every single time! Practice makes perfect, get out there and shoot some film. #Minoltagang
James great vid, thank you! I’m currently shooting Kodak UltraMax 400 but I have my ISO set to 200. I would set my shutter speed to 1/250 in this situation, correct?
Notes from this video: First thing you should do is set your shutter speed according to your film. If you have 100 ISO film set your shutter closest to 100 so that'd be 125 Shutter Speed. 400 ISO film would be 500 Shutter Speed. Next you'll set your aperture. This is going to depend on the light conditions. - f/16 = If it's sunny (no clouds) - f/11 = sunny + some clouds (1 or 2 clouds) - f/8 = mostly cloudy (not overcast) - f/5.6 = overcast or outdoor shade - f/4 = shade only (no sunlight) Thanks for this lesson Jonathan. This helped a lot and makes me understand the rule and the different conditions it could be used for.
A great explanation of Sunny 16. There is one further step which does slightly complicate matters. If Sunny 16 suggests shooting at a fairly wide aperture based on the prevailing light conditions but you want to increase the depth of field, then you can also apply the rule of reciprocity. In other words, stop down your lens to increase the DoF then increase the shutter speed by the same number of stops, For example: ISO 400 film and overcast conditions suggests 1/500 sec at f5.6. Stop down lens by two stops to f11 for increased DoF then adjust shutter speed by two stops to 1/125 sec. This results in the same exposure based on the rule of reciprocity. Also, like some other comments I would probably go with a shutter speed that is slower than 1/ISO, particularly when using colour negative film. In other words, 1/250 sec for ISO 400 rather than 1/500.
In regards to the latter part of your comment, and what others online repeatedly say about "overexposing just to be safe," would 1/250 sec for ISO 400 be considered overexposing? Meanwhile, 1/500 sec on a ISO 400 roll would be "underexposing?" Sorry, I'm new to these concepts.
@@orngpeelr9017 In both the cases you mention the over/underexposure would be less than one stop so certainly not too drastic. Given the choice for negative film, I would go with 1/250 sec rather than 1/500 sec for ISO400. Does that help a little?
Awesome comment, thanks man! Tomorrow I'll go to the shop to get my newly bought cameras (just some cheap vintages to get the hang of film photography as a previously digital only photographer: a Zorki 2-C and a Lubitel 2 Blue), can't wait to try out Sunny16 and when the artistic need tells me, change it up with the rule of reciprocity :)
Life of luxury. SF is 16 for 5 minutes. 11 for 2 minutes. 8 for 15 minutes. 16 for 5 more minutes. Then 5.6 for 30 minutes and then repeat... in reverse.
Not probably, LEARN IT, LIVE IT, LOVE IT!!! Now having said that I’m 73 and learned on my father’s Leica IIIC and IIIF’s. Later on I used his “New” M3 DS. Now, My love affair wandered to Nikon. I bought my first one was while I was in Marine Corps Officer Platoon Leaders school in Quantico, Virginia in 1965. It was an Nikon “F, Photomic T” dinosaurs roamed then. LOL. I do shoot with newer Nikon’s I have my original D1X that I bought new for just shy of $4,000.00 way back when. It’s been back to Nikon twice for software and buffer upgrades. Mine is the “energizer bunny” it keeps going.......... Your video was great! Well presented and VERY comprehensive, TWO THUMBS UP!!!
Bro, I always was interested in film photography, but I was intimidated because it looks very complicated. One random day I watched one of your videos and you make it so clear. You make it sound so fun and not complicated. Today I’m all into film photography and your videos are very helpful and clear. You got me into it, thanks for that. I hope you continue doing videos, I’ll be supporting. Saludos from mex 🇲🇽👋🏼
the other part to photography (which is most important) is remembering to drop off the film to get developed - and seeing how your settings worked out for you, it's all preference in the end - the world is your oyster
This video brushes over the single most important thing about sunny 16. Sunny 16 is meant to provide a STARTING POINT. Going from that starting point you can and should adjust your aperture and shutter speed according to your needs. For example you can close your aperture one stop or more and decrease the shutter speed by the same amount and vice versa. This is EXTREMELY important for controlling depth of field (portraits / landscape) and shutter speed (moving / stationary subjects). If you only follow the advice given in this video you will cripple yourself unnecessarily
I prefer to set the aperture I want, then vary the shutter speed to suit the light. This is because aperture has a bigger impact (i.e. depth of field) on my images than shutter speed does. Of course if you're shooting fast moving subjects, you'll want to prioritise shutter speed over aperture.
I remember learning this way back in college, brushed it off when my profs first talked about it but years later I find myself using it... a lot actually lol! Super valuable to know :)
Couple things I did when starting out was I carried a small notebook with me and literally wrote down the whole sunny 16 rules : f16 sun, f11 1-6 clouds...etc. next, I tend to favour a slight overexposure on my color film to prevent muddy shadows, so whatever I was gonna set my shutter speed too, I actually would cut that setting in half ->> 400 iso generally equals a 1/500th shutter, I would set it to 1/250th. That would always give me at least 1 stop of overexposure if I judge it right and if I dont it may come out normal exposure. It was an insurance policy for me while learning all these neat tricks and definitely saved a few of my favorite shots
S.J. Spot on! I did the same thing until I got more comfortable. That 1 stop overexposure is a life saver! Maybe I’ll cover this in an upcoming video? Anyways, thanks for sharing!
csandoval24 Sunny 16 rules only really work during the day. At dawn, dusk or indoors you’re either going to have to carry a light meter or guess. There are free light meter apps on your phone, They are not the most accurate, but if you really have no clue it’s better than nothing I suppose
Hi, I would like to start use analog camera. I watched these tutorials and two things are not clear to me, can you please help me? :) 1) If the ISO is given by the photo film. Does the ISO knob on the analog camera change anything? 2) Secong question is a bit dependent on the first answer. When for the safet is better to be 1 stop for overexposing, does that mean you set the shutter or the ISO knob? So for 200 ISO film, you would have set 200 ISO, 125 shutter? Or 200 ISO film set as 100 ISO, 125 shutter? Thank you!
Also, the shutter/aperture combination gives correct exposures in balanced pairs, so if you want to change your depth of field you can adjust those pairs. Think of them as opposite sides of a teeter-totter, when one side goes up, the other side has to go down: (f16 - 1/60) is equivalent to (f8 - 1/125) or (f5.6 - 1/250) or (f4 - 1/500) or (f2 - 1/1000). In the example, the first setting has a large depth-of-field and each of the following settings has less and less depth-of-field.
funny enough, I think what this video could have used was some pictures to illustrate these concepts. nonetheless, this was super informative for a film newbie like me so thank you!
Wow so much different than digital! This is golden info! I'm so used to thinking about shallow depths of field and bokeh and keeping ISOs as low as possible not to get noise in my digital shots. This looks at ISO in a whooooole different direction! Love it!
Seriously, you have no idea how much this helped me. I just got an old camera (Nikon F) and there are tons of videos that walk through the camera, but nothing that breaks down settings and the actual nitty gritty of using these classic film cameras. I was having a lot of trouble with not having a lighting meter. Thank you so much!! You’ve cleared up so many really specific things I was struggling with!
Keep in mind however that you can customize your starting "baseline" shutter speed depending on your needs. Its not a "set it and forget it" kind of thing. Example: I am using 50 ISO film but I want to use a fast shutter speed to prevent the subject from motion blur, or to protect against hand shake. Sunny 16 says 1/50th at f16 for bright sunny daylight. That is the same as 1/100th at f11, or 1/200th at f8, or 1/400th at f5.6, 1/800th at f4. Same exposure for all of them. So I can pick any one of those and from that starting point, I will subtract a stop or a couple of stops or three stops depending on how much cloud cover there is. It is helpful to write down several of the "Sunny 16" combinations for each film on a piece of paper and stick it in the film reminder thing on the back of the camera, if your camera has one. Then you can choose one which has a fast enough shutter speed for whatever it is you're shooting.
hello!! I have a Yashica Fx3, that shows a green dot 🟢 when exposure is correct. I have read that it is better to overexpose one step ➕️. My yashica has center weight meter. I also have read that you should point towards a shadow, so that this 🟢 appears. But.. what happens when everything in the frame is very bright and no shadows? where should I point my meter? Should I underexposed my meter if I point towards a sunny area? I dont understand how to meter to have a good exposure. Hope someone can help m
My mind is like 🤯 I’ve been shooting only digital cameras for almost 7 years and just starting to shoot film and this honestly blown my mind. Really good explained!!!
OMG! I'm 66 years old. I bought my first Nikon Fe2 in 1983, I now have 2. I've shot weddings, Quinseaneras. Yeah I've created a lot of cool stuff. You would think that I know my stuff. 16x125 was the daylight that was taught back in the day. I always had to change it. 250 was always coming up all the time. your protocols make sense. Thanks for sharing.
Two other useful things I was once taught (to work along side this rather than instead of it): 1- Paying attention to how crisp any shadow edges are can really help you in the f16-f8 area, as shadows tend to have more defined edges on brighter days 2- doubling or halving either your shutter speed or your aperture (not at the same time) should be roughly equivalent to -1/+1 stops of exposure; this is often quite useful if you want to maintain your depth of field whilst still getting a balanced exposure- iso 400 film could be shot at 1/125 and f11/f16 on more overcast days in this fashion, for example!
I had heard about the sunny 16 rule but not broken down like you just did! That was amazing. I suddenly feel like I would know what I am doing while shooting film now. THANK YOU!!!
This was SO helpful. I’ve read about sunny 16 a number of times in photography books and blogs, but it never made sense. You explained this in such an understandable manner! Thank you!!!
itsw4d3 well, it would really depend on your film ISO and max shutter speed, but opening your lens up all the way to say f1.4 is letting in more light. Let’s say you’re outside and your meter is telling you 1/125 at f11. To get down to f1.4 you would need a shutter speed of 1/3000.
As always, very enjoyable presentation. Also like your thrift shop excursions. Here in Fresno CA I have never found the variety you come across. Lucky to find even one possible find. Thanks again.
This is a great lesson. I only just started really learning aperture and shutter speed- was shooting for years on random settings I had no knowledge of!
I would also like to add that picking the correct ISO film for the conditions that you are shooting in is extremely beneficial. If you're going to a family BBQ you might not want to load 800 ISO if its direct sun Just like you wouldn't want to use 100 ISO for a late night evening outdoor event.
i have a very old russian camera which doesn't have a usually seen interface, and this tip has been the most useful thing to understand how to operate it effectively. Thank you!
Nice overview. The other thing I’d mention is that with negative film, you can err on the side of overexposure. Film’s pretty forgiving with highlights and with a scanner you can more easily recover details. It’s easy to crush shadows when underexposed. So if you’re unsure between f8 or f11 and don’t have a light meter, best bet is f8.
hello!! I have a Yashica Fx3, that shows a green dot 🟢 when exposure is correct. I have read that it is better to overexpose one step ➕️. My yashica has center weight meter. I also have read that you should point towards a shadow, so that this 🟢 appears. But.. what happens when everything in the frame is very bright and no shadows? where should I point my meter? Should I underexposed my meter if I point towards a sunny area? I dont understand how to meter to have a good exposure. Hope someone can help m
This video was super helpful! I'm just starting out and trying to figure out how to set everything up on my camera - this explanation clarified so much for me. Thank you!
This instruction has always been in pictorial form inside all film roll boxes. But this video certainly helps those who are less familiar with manual metering. Great job!
Oh my god i finally found someone who could explained simply well and make it sounds really easy and understandable. thank you so much i really needed this video since I’m planning to buy an SLR.
I’m new to film photography but have been doing photography for 6ish years. And when I started doing film photography I was using a light meter and I just realized that all of this video matched my exposures.
ive wanted to get into film photography because i looove taking digital and want more of that classic art to the photos. This video helped me so much, although i think i just ruined a roll of film.. but hey photography progress! Thank you so much!!
When I went to photography school we were given a sunny 16 guide which also has all the variations for different lighting situations even things like night Time fireworks. So all the other variations are not just guesswork. There are set exposures for those situations as well.
I just found out Sunny 16 video. This has been a mystery for me for a long time. I made some notes so I don't forget. Thanks for clearing this up for me!
What I really enjoy watching your videos (next to the fact that I really appreciate your addiction to film photography) is that way you talk. Not that "I need to be funny or pro or whatever"-Style. That s the way I enjoy photography. Keep up that thing.
I just started shoring film a week ago and I really appreciate this video been binging your videos and I’m gonna try a couple things out thanks for sharing the knowledge
Hello Jvpes. I am from India, live in a small town. After watching your video I was inspired to shoot film. I tried to find a film camera but didn't succeed. Finally I found one photo studio which had their old cameras which they shot with earlier. He sold me one k1000 for 100 dollars in a pretty used up condition but said it's working. And I had no knowledge of film camera. But I was ripped off. I saved up that money. Now I want to buy another so I can learn but I am scared that I might get ripped off again as I have no knowledge. And this was a great and easy to understand video.
I just bought my first film camera so I will be binge watching all of your content that will hopefully help me know more about what I just got myself into
Wow I’ve been looking for a video explaining this !! I’ve read so much online but it just wasn’t making sense. This is so clear and to the point! I appreciate this so much!!
GIVE THIS MAN AN AWARD🥇 WELL SAID HOMIE! I feel like I FINALLY GOT IT after watching this.... Thank you for sharing you’re knowledgeable. One question tho... How do you feel about setting it on aperture mode when shooting film as well?
You are missing the whole point: these guidelines apply to those who bought an old Leica rangefinder camera and then found out that they had no money left to buy an exposure meter. These people are also too lazy to read the instruction sheet that came along with the film (now some film manufacturers use the inside of the box to print some instructions). I am not familiar with Mr. Everybody who shoots only on 400 ASA film: do you know where he is from?
Honestly, Sunny 16 goes hard as hell. It adds to the experience of shooting a lot of these older cameras in that it forces you to slow down, read light, etc. I just copped an M6 over an M2, because I'd like to have the meter, just in case, but it can be fun to exercise your mind with Sunny 16 sometimes.
im so so so soooo happy i found your channel. You have been such a lifesaver🤍 ive been doing my own research, reading, watching videos, but no one explains things like you. So easy to understand and follow. Thanks dude i appreciate you!!
Great explanation of sunny 16. Thanks bro. The way you explained the rule it is a pure shutter priority mode type of shooting. So the assumption is that the viewer understands the consequence of f5.6 or f4 versus f16. The depth of field and therefore the overall look of an image can dramatically change. If the viewer doesnt know that f4 might look different than f16 they are in for a surprise when they get the film developed.
That was perfect. There are no cheats in film photography, except all the ridiculousness attached to needing every feature under the sun to shoot a basic photograph.
Another point worth mentioning is that with film it's better to slightly overexpose, than to underexpose, because it's easier to recover information from the highlights than the shadows. This is the exact opposite to Digital.
Thanks man! Its like the easiest explanation! And since i wont likely find a battery for a newly obtained leica cl (the film one), learning to live without lightmeter will be handy.
Thank you so much! Now I feel less confused shooting manual on film. This is the simplest explanation so far and I am gonna try this out as soon as possible.
The direction of your subject from the sun is usually the deciding factor. I've found F/16 is best at the beach with highly reflective sand or white concrete sidewalks mid-day - but on the street the light can be deceiving by a full stop depending on your lens barrels relationship to the sun. There can be a two-stop difference between light a 11am and 2pm depending on your lens barrels relation to the sun. For film users the F/11 rule will consistently keep you leaning towards over-exposure which is better negative than an under-exposed negative, to me. My Nikon DSLRs under-expose everything it seems at F/16 unless it is a very, very bright scene, which isn't that often.
Thanks so much for posting this! I inherited my pop's old Olympus AE1 and just got a battery and film for it. I used film as a kid (90s baby) but only on simple point and shoot cameras and disposable cameras. I've never used one with a lens before or had to deal with aperture settings, shutter speed, exposure, etc. I really appreciate this simple method. I know the AE1 has an auto exposure setting, but idk how well it works in this particular camera. I'll be going to a showing for bonhams tomorrow and I'm bringing the AE1 with me to try it out
(In old man voice) Back in my day... My first real SLR was a Vivitar SL220 with M42 screw-mount lenses. I let a guy use it and he said he replaced the battery for me. With the wrong one. I found that out just as I was getting ready to shoot his mother's small outdoor wedding reception with no meter. I used Sunny 16 and got good images. It was probably an easier time of it as the camera worked with stop-down metering. You could only get a meter ready at the aperture you were using. Not easy when shooting smaller apertures in dark areas. So everything in and out of shade was shot using Sunny 16 and focusing wide open. Much less complicated and I could pay more attention to catching the right moment for candids. After over a decade of digital, I'm getting back into film. Still rocking the DSLR and some mirrorless, but yeah. Time to get back to my roots.
Sunny 16 is the photographers cheat code! As long as you follow this rule you'll be able to get good exposures every single time! Practice makes perfect, get out there and shoot some film. #Minoltagang
Will this work the same if you try it using a dslr camera?
James great vid, thank you! I’m currently shooting Kodak UltraMax 400 but I have my ISO set to 200. I would set my shutter speed to 1/250 in this situation, correct?
Do these apply to ISO 200 too? I’m shooting on Fuji c200
If my max shutter speed on my camera is 300 would this work for a 400 speed film?
hello japes. can i use the same setting on b&w film? thank you.
Notes from this video:
First thing you should do is set your shutter speed according to your film. If you have 100 ISO film set your shutter closest to 100 so that'd be 125 Shutter Speed. 400 ISO film would be 500 Shutter Speed.
Next you'll set your aperture. This is going to depend on the light conditions.
- f/16 = If it's sunny (no clouds)
- f/11 = sunny + some clouds (1 or 2 clouds)
- f/8 = mostly cloudy (not overcast)
- f/5.6 = overcast or outdoor shade
- f/4 = shade only (no sunlight)
Thanks for this lesson Jonathan. This helped a lot and makes me understand the rule and the different conditions it could be used for.
thanks Garcia for making the notes from the video . i took a screen shot with my phone and now have the aperture table to hand as a memory jogger .
Raymond Kilminster I’m glad it helped!
does this apply to all analog cameras ? i have a minolta dynax 505si super which is kind of semi-digital
@@raymondkilminster2194 yeah me too! Thanks 👍🏼
Michaelo El Grando Why wouldn’t it? If it uses film it works, the only important thing about the camera is having manual mode.
A great explanation of Sunny 16. There is one further step which does slightly complicate matters. If Sunny 16 suggests shooting at a fairly wide aperture based on the prevailing light conditions but you want to increase the depth of field, then you can also apply the rule of reciprocity. In other words, stop down your lens to increase the DoF then increase the shutter speed by the same number of stops, For example: ISO 400 film and overcast conditions suggests 1/500 sec at f5.6. Stop down lens by two stops to f11 for increased DoF then adjust shutter speed by two stops to 1/125 sec. This results in the same exposure based on the rule of reciprocity. Also, like some other comments I would probably go with a shutter speed that is slower than 1/ISO, particularly when using colour negative film. In other words, 1/250 sec for ISO 400 rather than 1/500.
An underrated comment
In regards to the latter part of your comment, and what others online repeatedly say about "overexposing just to be safe," would 1/250 sec for ISO 400 be considered overexposing? Meanwhile, 1/500 sec on a ISO 400 roll would be "underexposing?" Sorry, I'm new to these concepts.
@@orngpeelr9017 In both the cases you mention the over/underexposure would be less than one stop so certainly not too drastic. Given the choice for negative film, I would go with 1/250 sec rather than 1/500 sec for ISO400. Does that help a little?
Chris Bone yeah I think so thanks dude!
Awesome comment, thanks man! Tomorrow I'll go to the shop to get my newly bought cameras (just some cheap vintages to get the hang of film photography as a previously digital only photographer: a Zorki 2-C and a Lubitel 2 Blue), can't wait to try out Sunny16 and when the artistic need tells me, change it up with the rule of reciprocity :)
Me living in London: "Wait, people shoot at F16 and F11?"
I was at f1.8 - f2.8 in London the other day. Was almost pitch black in the afternoon pissing it down
@@George-tp7zz Reading this in Hackney where it hasn't stopped raining for 5 days
Sunny in London today 😎
Hi from F/22 Singapore! 🇸🇬😉
🤣
Always 5.6 here in Welsh weather
Life of luxury. SF is 16 for 5 minutes. 11 for 2 minutes. 8 for 15 minutes. 16 for 5 more minutes. Then 5.6 for 30 minutes and then repeat... in reverse.
Always makes me laugh seeing the untouched piles of 50 speed film in Dublin shops
oh yes f11 in rome
Wayhey yes lad
😂😂😂😂 it’s true
Not probably, LEARN IT, LIVE IT, LOVE IT!!! Now having said that I’m 73 and learned on my father’s Leica IIIC and IIIF’s. Later on I used his “New” M3 DS. Now, My love affair wandered to Nikon. I bought my first one was while I was in Marine Corps Officer Platoon Leaders school in Quantico, Virginia in 1965. It was an Nikon “F, Photomic T” dinosaurs roamed then. LOL. I do shoot with newer Nikon’s I have my original D1X that I bought new for just shy of $4,000.00 way back when. It’s been back to Nikon twice for software and buffer upgrades. Mine is the “energizer bunny” it keeps going.......... Your video was great! Well presented and VERY comprehensive, TWO THUMBS UP!!!
Photos 1-10 on my first roll of film ever: White as rice
Photos 11-36 on that roll: Ah, I see you've now heard about the Sunny 16 rule!
hahahahahahahah that happened to me :'D
Mine is the other way round, underexposed all my images before learning about this rule lol
Literally on my 10 pic right now and I just changed it 😂😂
Bro, I always was interested in film photography, but I was intimidated because it looks very complicated. One random day I watched one of your videos and you make it so clear. You make it sound so fun and not complicated. Today I’m all into film photography and your videos are very helpful and clear. You got me into it, thanks for that. I hope you continue doing videos, I’ll be supporting. Saludos from mex 🇲🇽👋🏼
I 2nd this. I'm in usa
Is there anyway I can check out your photos bro on IG or Twitter? Thanks bro
the other part to photography (which is most important) is remembering to drop off the film to get developed - and seeing how your settings worked out for you, it's all preference in the end - the world is your oyster
Just be me and stumble across a Eos 5 and have to learn this stuff the hard way lmao
This video brushes over the single most important thing about sunny 16. Sunny 16 is meant to provide a STARTING POINT. Going from that starting point you can and should adjust your aperture and shutter speed according to your needs.
For example you can close your aperture one stop or more and decrease the shutter speed by the same amount and vice versa.
This is EXTREMELY important for controlling depth of field (portraits / landscape) and shutter speed (moving / stationary subjects).
If you only follow the advice given in this video you will cripple yourself unnecessarily
Can you please elaborate a bit more whats the difference for portairs and landscapes and what differences can you see in the depth whe adjusting stops
Reciprocity!
I prefer to set the aperture I want, then vary the shutter speed to suit the light. This is because aperture has a bigger impact (i.e. depth of field) on my images than shutter speed does. Of course if you're shooting fast moving subjects, you'll want to prioritise shutter speed over aperture.
Me too. But without light meter this method is great.
Best explaination I've heard. Passing
this to my sister who's just learning. Thanks man!
I remember learning this way back in college, brushed it off when my profs first talked about it but years later I find myself using it... a lot actually lol! Super valuable to know :)
I have this beautiful Minolta SRT01 SLR film camera that I never took out because the light meter didn't work - blah blah blah
Found Riza hehe my fav filmmaker
Couple things I did when starting out was I carried a small notebook with me and literally wrote down the whole sunny 16 rules : f16 sun, f11 1-6 clouds...etc. next, I tend to favour a slight overexposure on my color film to prevent muddy shadows, so whatever I was gonna set my shutter speed too, I actually would cut that setting in half ->> 400 iso generally equals a 1/500th shutter, I would set it to 1/250th. That would always give me at least 1 stop of overexposure if I judge it right and if I dont it may come out normal exposure. It was an insurance policy for me while learning all these neat tricks and definitely saved a few of my favorite shots
S.J. Spot on! I did the same thing until I got more comfortable. That 1 stop overexposure is a life saver! Maybe I’ll cover this in an upcoming video? Anyways, thanks for sharing!
What about during sunset if you have a nice clear one ? Or a sunset with clouds ? What f stop?
csandoval24 Sunny 16 rules only really work during the day. At dawn, dusk or indoors you’re either going to have to carry a light meter or guess. There are free light meter apps on your phone, They are not the most accurate, but if you really have no clue it’s better than nothing I suppose
Hi, I would like to start use analog camera. I watched these tutorials and two things are not clear to me, can you please help me? :)
1) If the ISO is given by the photo film. Does the ISO knob on the analog camera change anything?
2) Secong question is a bit dependent on the first answer. When for the safet is better to be 1 stop for overexposing, does that mean you set the shutter or the ISO knob? So for 200 ISO film, you would have set 200 ISO, 125 shutter? Or 200 ISO film set as 100 ISO, 125 shutter?
Thank you!
Or you could just Turn your ISO 1 stop down, so instead of Using an ISO of 400 u should get one at 200.
Thank you! I tried several other videos to understand it before and give up. Today I decided to give one more chance and your video really helped me!
Also, the shutter/aperture combination gives correct exposures in balanced pairs, so if you want to change your depth of field you can adjust those pairs. Think of them as opposite sides of a teeter-totter, when one side goes up, the other side has to go down: (f16 - 1/60) is equivalent to (f8 - 1/125) or (f5.6 - 1/250) or (f4 - 1/500) or (f2 - 1/1000). In the example, the first setting has a large depth-of-field and each of the following settings has less and less depth-of-field.
funny enough, I think what this video could have used was some pictures to illustrate these concepts. nonetheless, this was super informative for a film newbie like me so thank you!
Wow so much different than digital! This is golden info! I'm so used to thinking about shallow depths of field and bokeh and keeping ISOs as low as possible not to get noise in my digital shots. This looks at ISO in a whooooole different direction! Love it!
Seriously, you have no idea how much this helped me. I just got an old camera (Nikon F) and there are tons of videos that walk through the camera, but nothing that breaks down settings and the actual nitty gritty of using these classic film cameras. I was having a lot of trouble with not having a lighting meter. Thank you so much!! You’ve cleared up so many really specific things I was struggling with!
Absolutely brilliant! You’re fabulous at explaining.. I’m a photography student and no teacher has ever explained this concept. Thanks so much
Right when i bought a Canon P (no light meter) you upload this video. You are the 🐐
Keep in mind however that you can customize your starting "baseline" shutter speed depending on your needs. Its not a "set it and forget it" kind of thing.
Example: I am using 50 ISO film but I want to use a fast shutter speed to prevent the subject from motion blur, or to protect against hand shake. Sunny 16 says 1/50th at f16 for bright sunny daylight. That is the same as 1/100th at f11, or 1/200th at f8, or 1/400th at f5.6, 1/800th at f4. Same exposure for all of them. So I can pick any one of those and from that starting point, I will subtract a stop or a couple of stops or three stops depending on how much cloud cover there is.
It is helpful to write down several of the "Sunny 16" combinations for each film on a piece of paper and stick it in the film reminder thing on the back of the camera, if your camera has one. Then you can choose one which has a fast enough shutter speed for whatever it is you're shooting.
Peoria Videos Ltd Yes! Do you know if there’s a chart like that anywhere on the internet? Would be super helpful.
hello!! I have a Yashica Fx3, that shows a green dot 🟢 when exposure is correct. I have read that it is better to overexpose one step ➕️. My yashica has center weight meter. I also have read that you should point towards a shadow, so that this 🟢 appears. But.. what happens when everything in the frame is very bright and no shadows? where should I point my meter? Should I underexposed my meter if I point towards a sunny area? I dont understand how to meter to have a good exposure. Hope someone can help m
My mind is like 🤯 I’ve been shooting only digital cameras for almost 7 years and just starting to shoot film and this honestly blown my mind. Really good explained!!!
OMG! I'm 66 years old. I bought my first Nikon Fe2 in 1983, I now have 2. I've shot weddings, Quinseaneras. Yeah I've created a lot of cool stuff. You would think that I know my stuff. 16x125 was the daylight that was taught back in the day. I always had to change it. 250 was always coming up all the time. your protocols make sense. Thanks for sharing.
Two other useful things I was once taught (to work along side this rather than instead of it):
1- Paying attention to how crisp any shadow edges are can really help you in the f16-f8 area, as shadows tend to have more defined edges on brighter days
2- doubling or halving either your shutter speed or your aperture (not at the same time) should be roughly equivalent to -1/+1 stops of exposure; this is often quite useful if you want to maintain your depth of field whilst still getting a balanced exposure- iso 400 film could be shot at 1/125 and f11/f16 on more overcast days in this fashion, for example!
one of the best videos about setting&shooting SLR camera I've ever watched! Cheers!
I had heard about the sunny 16 rule but not broken down like you just did! That was amazing. I suddenly feel like I would know what I am doing while shooting film now. THANK YOU!!!
This was SO helpful. I’ve read about sunny 16 a number of times in photography books and blogs, but it never made sense. You explained this in such an understandable manner! Thank you!!!
Man, you made this so so easy and common sense.
Just got a Rapid-Omega to get away from my DSLR habit..
Very great tutorial.
new subscriber, Bo
Thank you man you explained it so much better than a lot of other UA-camrs.
Somewhere, someone is saying "but what about the bokeh???"
Zach Parks 😂😂😂😂😂😂
Just calculate the stops in your head duh
@@strawberryjam3670 whaaaaa
thats literally me
itsw4d3 well, it would really depend on your film ISO and max shutter speed, but opening your lens up all the way to say f1.4 is letting in more light.
Let’s say you’re outside and your meter is telling you 1/125 at f11. To get down to f1.4 you would need a shutter speed of 1/3000.
As always, very enjoyable presentation. Also like your thrift shop excursions. Here in Fresno CA I have never found the variety you come across. Lucky to find even one possible find. Thanks again.
Great and clear video. It’s helping me nail every picture in my Konica S rangefinder.
This is a great lesson. I only just started really learning aperture and shutter speed- was shooting for years on random settings I had no knowledge of!
I would also like to add that picking the correct ISO film for the conditions that you are shooting in is extremely beneficial. If you're going to a family BBQ you might not want to load 800 ISO if its direct sun Just like you wouldn't want to use 100 ISO for a late night evening outdoor event.
i have a very old russian camera which doesn't have a usually seen interface, and this tip has been the most useful thing to understand how to operate it effectively. Thank you!
just ordered my first ever film camera and this is super helpful! thank you
*Me Living in Southern California*
“Wait there are other aperture settings for Sunny 16?”
Use f22 in blinding snow or at the beach when sun is up and no clouds .
I never shoot on 16 and I live in California 😬
Nice overview. The other thing I’d mention is that with negative film, you can err on the side of overexposure. Film’s pretty forgiving with highlights and with a scanner you can more easily recover details. It’s easy to crush shadows when underexposed. So if you’re unsure between f8 or f11 and don’t have a light meter, best bet is f8.
hello!! I have a Yashica Fx3, that shows a green dot 🟢 when exposure is correct. I have read that it is better to overexpose one step ➕️. My yashica has center weight meter. I also have read that you should point towards a shadow, so that this 🟢 appears. But.. what happens when everything in the frame is very bright and no shadows? where should I point my meter? Should I underexposed my meter if I point towards a sunny area? I dont understand how to meter to have a good exposure. Hope someone can help m
Best beginner explanation I've found so far. Thank you!
This video was super helpful! I'm just starting out and trying to figure out how to set everything up on my camera - this explanation clarified so much for me. Thank you!
This instruction has always been in pictorial form inside all film roll boxes. But this video certainly helps those who are less familiar with manual metering. Great job!
I always come back to this, thank you
Definitely not lacking on the streets with these vids. Appreciate the info.
Oh my god i finally found someone who could explained simply well and make it sounds really easy and understandable. thank you so much i really needed this video since I’m planning to buy an SLR.
Man you just answered all my aperture questions! Thank you! 🙏
Thank you for explaining sunny f/16. Because I love my 35mm Canon A1 film camera.🙏🏼
Thanks for this video, I've watched many others, but yours is simply explained keep it simple and hope your channel grows.
I’m new to film photography but have been doing photography for 6ish years. And when I started doing film photography I was using a light meter and I just realized that all of this video matched my exposures.
The best explanation of the sunny 16 rule, easy to understand for a beginner like myself. Thanks man!
thank you!
I bough a Canon EF camera two days ago and being a beginner in film photography this video is so incredibly useful. Thank You.
Thanks so much! helpful but without being talked down to :) looking forward to getting out there with my new camera and shooting!
ive wanted to get into film photography because i looove taking digital and want more of that classic art to the photos. This video helped me so much, although i think i just ruined a roll of film.. but hey photography progress! Thank you so much!!
thank you for this video. you are very articulate. i am wanting to get into film photography and you have made it less overwhelming!
When I went to photography school we were given a sunny 16 guide which also has all the variations for different lighting situations even things like night Time fireworks. So all the other variations are not just guesswork. There are set exposures for those situations as well.
This is probably the best video about the "sunny 16" rule i`ve seen so far
I just found out Sunny 16 video. This has been a mystery for me for a long time. I made some notes so I don't forget. Thanks for clearing this up for me!
This helped so much in understanding the aperture! I got my first film camera for Christmas so I’m still learning. Thanks!!
Thanks man this really helped. Getting a better understanding with ASA & Shutter speeds
Thanks so much!, Just bought my first film cam and this was so helpful.
One of the best explanations of Sunny 16 I've come across. Excited to use your cheat sheet here in extremely sunny South Africa😄👏
What I really enjoy watching your videos (next to the fact that I really appreciate your addiction to film photography) is that way you talk. Not that "I need to be funny or pro or whatever"-Style. That s the way I enjoy photography. Keep up that thing.
I just started shoring film a week ago and I really appreciate this video been binging your videos and I’m gonna try a couple things out thanks for sharing the knowledge
Hello Jvpes. I am from India, live in a small town. After watching your video I was inspired to shoot film. I tried to find a film camera but didn't succeed. Finally I found one photo studio which had their old cameras which they shot with earlier. He sold me one k1000 for 100 dollars in a pretty used up condition but said it's working. And I had no knowledge of film camera. But I was ripped off. I saved up that money. Now I want to buy another so I can learn but I am scared that I might get ripped off again as I have no knowledge.
And this was a great and easy to understand video.
Holy cow I have never seen this information anywhere. Thank you from a beginner!
I just bought my first film camera so I will be binge watching all of your content that will hopefully help me know more about what I just got myself into
Wow I’ve been looking for a video explaining this !! I’ve read so much online but it just wasn’t making sense. This is so clear and to the point! I appreciate this so much!!
Explained very well 👍 . Just like my Uncle taught me when I took photos at the 1964 World's Fair . B&W and they all turned out well .
Finally a video on sunny 16, thanks KingJvpes 🙌
Absolutely flawless explanation. Thank you very much.
GIVE THIS MAN AN AWARD🥇 WELL SAID HOMIE! I feel like I FINALLY GOT IT after watching this.... Thank you for sharing you’re knowledgeable. One question tho... How do you feel about setting it on aperture mode when shooting film as well?
You are missing the whole point: these guidelines apply to those who bought an old Leica rangefinder camera and then found out that they had no money left to buy an exposure meter.
These people are also too lazy to read the instruction sheet that came along with the film (now some film manufacturers use the inside of the box to print some instructions).
I am not familiar with Mr. Everybody who shoots only on 400 ASA film: do you know where he is from?
I've heard of this before but I've never actually utilized it. Now I have a new technique to try out, thank you for sharing!
I just started film photography. This is great explanation! Will follow this rule while also checking using light meter app. Thanks!
Honestly, Sunny 16 goes hard as hell. It adds to the experience of shooting a lot of these older cameras in that it forces you to slow down, read light, etc. I just copped an M6 over an M2, because I'd like to have the meter, just in case, but it can be fun to exercise your mind with Sunny 16 sometimes.
great teaching, easy follow thank you
So happy I came across your channel! Extremely informative. Thank you from NY/CT 🙏🏼 !!
im so so so soooo happy i found your channel. You have been such a lifesaver🤍 ive been doing my own research, reading, watching videos, but no one explains things like you. So easy to understand and follow. Thanks dude i appreciate you!!
My wee brain suddenly wet click! And there was light. Thankyou for a superbly clear concise and brilliant tutorial. McIntyre.
Great explanation of sunny 16. Thanks bro. The way you explained the rule it is a pure shutter priority mode type of shooting. So the assumption is that the viewer understands the consequence of f5.6 or f4 versus f16. The depth of field and therefore the overall look of an image can dramatically change. If the viewer doesnt know that f4 might look different than f16 they are in for a surprise when they get the film developed.
Enjoyed and learnt something, I have always understood exposure but this simple rule is great, wish I knew it 50 years ago. Best regards.
That was perfect. There are no cheats in film photography, except all the ridiculousness attached to needing every feature under the sun to shoot a basic photograph.
Another point worth mentioning is that with film it's better to slightly overexpose, than to underexpose, because it's easier to recover information from the highlights than the shadows. This is the exact opposite to Digital.
Thanks man! Its like the easiest explanation! And since i wont likely find a battery for a newly obtained leica cl (the film one), learning to live without lightmeter will be handy.
this is the most helpful thing I have ever watched! thank youuu
By far the best explanation. Thanks again 👍
Thanks you for this! Just the info I was looking for!
Thank you so much! Now I feel less confused shooting manual on film. This is the simplest explanation so far and I am gonna try this out as soon as possible.
Thank you for this , this applies to mirorless as well
Thank you so much for the lesson, I just started to use film cameras and this is incredibly useful. Thank you.
Best explanation I've gotten! Thanks so much!
The best sunny 16 explanation!! Thanks a lot!
The direction of your subject from the sun is usually the deciding factor. I've found F/16 is best at the beach with highly reflective sand or white concrete sidewalks mid-day - but on the street the light can be deceiving by a full stop depending on your lens barrels relationship to the sun. There can be a two-stop difference between light a 11am and 2pm depending on your lens barrels relation to the sun. For film users the F/11 rule will consistently keep you leaning towards over-exposure which is better negative than an under-exposed negative, to me. My Nikon DSLRs under-expose everything it seems at F/16 unless it is a very, very bright scene, which isn't that often.
Just got the Minolta CLE so I'm really keen to try out the sunny 16 rule!
Thank you! Wonderful explanation.
Just got my first film camera!! I haven’t shot since high school so I’m so glad I found your channel. Thank you for always giving value!!! ❤️
Thanks so much for posting this! I inherited my pop's old Olympus AE1 and just got a battery and film for it. I used film as a kid (90s baby) but only on simple point and shoot cameras and disposable cameras. I've never used one with a lens before or had to deal with aperture settings, shutter speed, exposure, etc. I really appreciate this simple method. I know the AE1 has an auto exposure setting, but idk how well it works in this particular camera. I'll be going to a showing for bonhams tomorrow and I'm bringing the AE1 with me to try it out
Did you end up shooting ?
This is one of the best practical rundowns of Sunny 16 I've ever seen! Well done and thanks for making this! (Also wooooo #minoltagang)
(In old man voice) Back in my day... My first real SLR was a Vivitar SL220 with M42 screw-mount lenses. I let a guy use it and he said he replaced the battery for me. With the wrong one. I found that out just as I was getting ready to shoot his mother's small outdoor wedding reception with no meter. I used Sunny 16 and got good images. It was probably an easier time of it as the camera worked with stop-down metering. You could only get a meter ready at the aperture you were using. Not easy when shooting smaller apertures in dark areas. So everything in and out of shade was shot using Sunny 16 and focusing wide open. Much less complicated and I could pay more attention to catching the right moment for candids. After over a decade of digital, I'm getting back into film. Still rocking the DSLR and some mirrorless, but yeah. Time to get back to my roots.
Really well explained, thank you! This'll help wean me off checking my lightmeter every few minutes while out shooting...
This is a great help. I hate terms but this is so easy to understand and to follow. Maraming Salamat.
😊💚