What do you think? Have you done anything like this? I use this oil to lube things around the shop and put on wood decks on my trailers. You can use it in a chainsaw in a pinch. I have not tried it mixed with diesel as fuel, but I have heard people do on older farm equipment. Anyway, let me know what you think. Do you know a better way?
i filter used oil from the autoshop i work at and run it with a mix of diesel in my 80s mercedes 300d and it runs great and saves me a lot of money in fuel plus the shop doesn’t have to pay as much for oil disposal and i get free fuel with a little time and effort
Don't reuse old oil though. It may be filtered but it breaks down at a molecular level during use, and doesn't have the same qualities and the newer oil it is designed to use. You'll wear your bearings out super quick. You can use it as fuel oil though.
Many years ago I worked with an older gentleman who had grown up during the great depression in a thrid-world country, where oil was hard to get and very expensive. He told me how they cleaned oil to reuse it. He said they put a jug of used oil up on a shelf 6 or 7 feet above the floor. Then they put an empty jug on the floor. Then they put a 1" cotton rope into the used oil jug and ran it up and over the side of the jug and down to the empty jug on the floor. He said you just stick the rope in the used oil and it will wick itself up the rope and down into the empty jug. As it flowed down the cotton rope it filtered the oil and it came out looking like new oil. He said it was clean but still had been used so they either mixed it with new oil or used it 4 quarts of used oil with one quart of oil treatment like STP, and they only used it twice before they replaced it all with new oil, but it helped save money and had to find new oil. He said it takes a while so you just start it and leave it for a month or so. I always change my own oil and I've said many times I was going to try it but I never have.
I heard of this and tried it last year ..... took 30 days to filter a few Oz of oil lol ....but it was way cleaner and smoother and clear then the dirty motor oil it use to be
I just used some coffee filters and it worked great. It took a few hours but it filtered okay. I haven't used buckets, only a big ex-water bottle and a funnel covered in coffee filters.
The particles you need to eliminate are so fine, they easily pass through any kind of mesh filter. Think about it these particles have already passed through the filter on the vehicle several times. You aren’t filtering anything. Then there is agglomeration, after you “filter” it through that set-up, any fine particles will cling to each other as the oil sits, just creating larger particles/sludge. At best all of this does is thoroughly strain the oil. To truly filter it, you need a centrifugal filter that rotates the oil at very high speeds and traps contaminants as sludge.
Had a 305 Honda Motorcycle with a centrifuge. You still have to drain the oil because they dont require makeup oil. Most people prefer the simplicity of a depth oil filter.
I mix 1ltr of used engine oil in a Tub with 5g of Gelatin mixed in 125ml of water. Leave it for 2 days and you are left with thick sludge at the bottom of the tub and clean oil on the top. Gently pour the oil into a second container leaving the sludge behind. I then mix the cleaned oil with 500ml of kerosene, mix well, and I then have 1500,ml of fuel for my kerosene heater. Most probably not good enough for a vehicle engine but perfect for my kerosene heater
The Military is using a lot of Big Gulf Coast filters. An Abrams tank Im told has 2 fuel cells. The fuel is normally only used out of one cell. The fuel in the other cell needs cleaning. They use the big Gulf Coast filters for that. The Big Gulf Coast filters are rated at 99 % at under 1 micron. About the same as the higher quality toilet paper. These systems are portable with a air pump. Also used for aviation fuel and cleaning solvent. Starting to see more on over the road trucks.
I like this setup with a spin-on, esp vs using whole house filters with the mess of changing cartridges. Using old motor oil on wood trailer decks unfiltered I collect a LOT more hydro from servicing my tractors. It doesn't get very dark, and stuff will settle out over a few weeks. I want to copy this. Decent gear oil then for hitch pins or to top up lathe headstocks after adding a wee bit of zinc. I agree with all who mention using magnets anywhere & everywhere.
I bet if you thoroughly filtered full synthetic you could use it almost indefinitely. As long as it never exceeded it's breakdown temperature. I'd love to see someone do an in depth scientific lubrication test. (Also maybe heat it to a certain temperature to evaporate any water contamination).🤷♂️
Of course, oil has various "packages" added to it, which evaporate or break down over time--including anti-sludge additives, detergents, dispersants, etc.
That's something to think about. I bet there are a lot of good uses for oil engine oil. I have heard of people using it on wood. Also, people burn it for heat.
When you want fine sediment to fall out of wine you add bentonite clay, there are other clearing agents that work even better. It is a polarized particle that attracts and attaches to any floating particles and eventually settles to the bottom. This could take a few weeks, I dont know how it would work in something as viscous as oil but it would be an interesting experiment. Add some bentonite to oil in a jar, stir it up to mix it into solution and leave it in the closet for a few months. Poor or siphon off the top leaving the sludge at the bottom
This might sound crazy but I also considered putting a flat metal plate at the bottom of the bin and soldering a wire to it. Drill a tiny hole in the bottom of the bucket and caulk it to seal it back up. Then attach the positive terminal of a battery to it. Take a metal rod and attach the negative terminal to it. Stir the oil vigorously with the rod, dont touch the the plate and rod while stirring. In theory this would negatively charge suspended particles with electrons and they would be attracted to the metal plate. Maybe stir it every once in a while and leave the electrode suspended in the oil. Not sure how conductive used oil is. In theory it would become increasingly less conductive with time. Would be a fun experiment.
Yes; the Baldwin BT839-10 has a "Nominal" Micron rating of 12 (which obviously from this video doesn't do a very good job at cleaning the carbon out), but Baldwin's B164 Bypass Filter oddly doesn't state a Nominal rating, but states an Absolute one at 15 Microns. - So best to find some other brand. --- I wonder if a 2 Micron Fuel Filter would work on this setup.
You need a much better filter. I think of using the denim cotton pant leg in a pipe. Better yet, get two pant legs , one inside of the other sewn together making square 2” plaid pattern blocks filled with non clumping kitty litter. The pipe is 5” dia steel lined with expanded metal for the pant leg to press against providing path for filtered oil to escape. You need end caps. And a means of hydrolic pressure to push the oil thou, perhaps an oil oil pump from dead engine. Heating the oil will make it flow better.
I doubt you have magnacleans in the us so you’d have to import from the UK but we use them to filter heating water, the water goes black from the inside of steel radiators, so I imagine the black in oil is also metal that hopefully is magnetic, you could just get a strong magnet and drop it in the oil first then if you wanted to go extreme get an Adey magna cleasne
As dansmith5524 says below, I to have seen this rope method used, just be aware that the spesial lubricating properties new oil have will not return with any method of cleaning the oil. If you intend to run it in a engine never use more than 50% cleaned oil with the rest being new/unused and remember that the life span will be shorter. For wood treatment or burning as fuel however this works well. With your current method add a valve so you can shut the oil of and use a finer filter to get better (and slower) results, may be a fine diesel/fuel filter would yield "cleaner" results. A pump would speed things up and allow the second bucket to be above the first so the oil can do several trips through the filter.
I take used oil to melt scrap metal. Also use it on my Bobcat trailer. It can also be mixed with diesel and gasoline and burned as a Diesel substitute. A centrifuge works best for filtering.
So you can get the oil fire that hot to melt the metal? Sounds like a good experiment. I want to make a waste oil heater in the near future. That looks pretty cool. I use old motor oil on my trailer beds too. It works well to keep away rot. I am just now looking into the centrifuge idea. That looks like something I might get soon.
@@SeidelRanch Yes it is possible to melt copper, aluminum, brass and even cast iron using oil. It works best when pressurized with an old hydraulic pump and sprayed into a burner, blow air in and get an extremely hot flame.
@@chargermopar I will try that with some aluminum when I make one. I am definitely going to make one, I just need to find the time. Thanks as always for all the helpful info.
@@SeidelRanch If you melt aluminum you have to make a container (crucible) to protect it from the fire to avoid most of it oxidizing. I start with cast aluminum scrap which is less likely to oxidize than can put in thin stuff like soda cans or sheet metal from sheds or campers. Compressing thin stuff before melting can work too. Baking soda can also work as a flux but borax seems to be the best.
@@SeidelRanch I need to put mine back together someday, the scrap pile is really getting out of hand here. Lots of air conditioner scrap and junk transmission cases.
It's not bypassing. The housing will not let the oil through without it going through the filter. I just think I need a filter that cleans down to a smaller micron amount. It's good enough for my purposes though. I want to try a centrifuge one day.
Filtered black oil. The good part is it got rid of all the junk that had gotten into the oil AFTER I had pulled it form the engines. There was grass, dirt and things like that in some of it.
It doesn't work, I've already tried it with strong neodymian magnets. I also tried oil in a plastic bottle with magnets at one side of the bottle and let it sit there for month & months hoping it would slowly pull the dirt to one side but it did nothing.
Yeah, I don't plan on using it again as motor oil but it has so many other uses I like to keep it around. As long as I can filter out anything major I am good. Of course I would love to get it so clean it was clear.
Im thinking one of those dust collector lids would work to use a shop vac exhaust as added pressure. Help force the oil through the filter faster. Possibly add a pump past the filter.
Do you think pressure would filter it better? I could try that if it will. Time is not usually something I worry about for something like this because it's a pour and leave kind of setup, but if pressure will make it filter better I am all for that.
I still use it but I have not changed it much. It's still working great. I do plan to make some of the suggested changes when I need to change the filter.
Nice setup. I was looking for a way to thin my chainsaw bar oil, its way too thick when it gets cold. I found canola oil works also but this gives me a few ideas on how to get rid of used motor oil. Nice video but you need a cheap 1/4 turn spigot on the end.
Not for reuse ever in a transmission. But mixed 50/50 with acetone it's a premier solvent for rusty fasteners. It's also better than any lube oil for cutting/drilling ferrous metals. Some will use it to top up power steering. that said, mixed in with other drained oil it should be ok for other than putting it back where it came from.
If the oil come out of a piece of equipment with a filter, then it's already filtered. The oil is black because its dirty. Even stepping down to a 10 micron filter wont change the color. Try using a heater and centrifuge next.
Most of it is filtered, but some can have contaminates in it like dirt or whatever as I am under the machine draining it. Like changing the oil on my dozer or skid steer, dirt finds it's way in. But, yes, the filter is going to only do so much. I would love to try that (heating and centrifuge). I bet that would pull out all kinds of more junk from it. Now just to convince the wife I need one.
My question is what does everyone do with the empty bottles especially when they stored the used disgusting oil? The auto parts store always hands them back.
I reuse the oil containers to hold the old oil. I probably have too many right now, but I have not gotten rid of them. I also cut them up sometimes and use them to dip my oil-less chainsaws in to keep the bars oiled. If they are empty, you should be able to recycle them like plastic (I think, don't hold me to that). Make sure you let them sit for a day or so to get out all the oil you can.
I use old motor oil thinned with diesel to paint on my wood trailer decks. You need to paint them every year because it doesn’t last, summer is the best time because the wood soaks it up. I don’t see any reason to filter the oil unless your going to put it in a lawnmower.
@@SeidelRanch I use the diesel as a thinner, the thin oil diesel mixture soaks into the dry wood in the hot summer a lot better than straight oil. I pour old in 5 gal bucket and add desired amount of diesel then it can be sprayed or most time I use a old broom for a brush. I also pour on or spray fence post with the mix. I would be careful with that since you live on a lake, you could have people in white suits showing up at your door.
You know oil breaks down it's not just dirty it breaks down picture oil is a bunch of tiny ball bearings well dissolve 90% of those ball bearings or remove them and then consider putting that back into your engine cuz that's a pretty good analogy on how viscosity works in a motor oil you're putting back a useless product don't do it farm equipment's too damn expensive
@@SeidelRanch the Cummins has a bypass filter kit you can put on the engine even and do this while the vehicle is running. Works well in old tractors or hay rigs that run non stop. But I clean mine then add the h30 additive that puts the elements back in I want. And for a 60 year old diesel tractor does just fine. I use my old subaru sti oil rotella 5w40 specifically. Filter that and add h30 and add it to my tractors. Then the tractor oil gets used in a waste oil heater. It’s pretty bad after the tractor.
Oil also doesn’t really change in molecularity, it does loose its properties such as zinc, phosphorus, boron, thus the additive to bring the levels back. I use h30 after watching firepunk use it successfully. But any other additive should bring the oil back to life once filtered
Ive used toilet paper filters since 1963. Oil should stay clear in a gasoline engine and get black in a diesel. They use big roll paper towels on locomotive engines on Shell offshore rigs and others. You know the oil in a diesel engine is clean if it doesnt stain the skin. The big Gulf Coast filter is rated at 99 percent at under 1 micron. Thats about as good as it gets. The Australian Jackmaster Classic claims 1 micron. My 84 Subaru went 250.000 miles with no oil drains. No engine problems except both head gaskets started leaking oil before it reached 300.000 miles.
You get more pressure by raising the bucket. I have a very old Motor Guard portable oil recycler. Its a container with a Motor Guard oil pump and a Motor Guard. Oil cleaner that used toilet paper. Its probably over 50 years old. Motor Guard only makes compressed air filters now. Found it on Ebay. Havent seen one since.
The original equipment that used the oil has a filter. And it circulated a hundred million times through that filter. Why did you think running it through an identical filter one single time would clean it at all? Ridiculous!
Well, in the video I explained why. When you drain the oil from an oil pan, you get sludge and metal parts that sunk to the bottom and never went through the oil filter. Add that to the stuff that falls off the oil pan when changing the oil and the other conditions like the wind and you can get contaminates in the oil you did not expect. That is why I run it through a filter again. I am not going to use it as motor oil again, but there are many other uses for this waste oil.
It's time to get into this. Some of mine has water dirt and oak leaves from the pan. Maybe an acorn or two and some bugs. I need a water separator. I wonder how much a centrifuge is.
That is why I did it. My oil gets too dirty just doing the oil change. To get the water out, I pour it in a bucket and let it sit then drill a whole in it to let the water out. Once I see oil coming out I plug it with a screw.
but..this is just one more filtering of oil that has been run THROUGH A FILTER HUNDREDS OF TIMES IN ITS lifetime in USE!how can one more filtering help it at all? it needs thinned with heat,,,then ran through a flilter small enough to clean the black out of it..this single process is a waste of time!..
This process was to get out anything that did not go through a filter, like metal that has been sitting in the bottom of your oil pan. This is also to make sure any junk that entered from the oil change like dirt from the oil pan and whatever else got in the drain pan. The 1st bucket filter caught all kinds of garbage when I poured it in.
yeah that's centrifugal force one if you want it to come out clear you have to either put coffee filters there's filters that they have for cleaning frying oil at the restaurant those filters will work coffee filters and there's actual a powder that you can put on the filters it's a neutralizer and your oil will come out brand new and you could reuse it in the car and everything it just has a different flash point and you could reuse in another time or two there's also a machine you could buy that does it but it's very expensive they're about $1,500 it's an oil cleaner it'll clean any oil but it uses suction system cool I love that video
Everyone saying you can filter the black out of the oil is lying. The color changes due to a chemistry change in the oil. The black color is now the color of the actual oil, not some particulate you can filter out.
Still looking pretty nasty. I'd try a better filter.... Maybe a 1 micron polyester water filter. They are pretty cheap on eBay and Amazon. The best automobile oil filter that you can get is a 20 micron 20,000 MI filter. I'd go for the one micron and it might clean up the color also. If the oil doesn't want to flow with the more restrictive filter you can always add air pressure to force it.
If the oil doesn't want to flow with the more restrictive filter you can add air pressure OR just leave it out in a sun to warm up, the viscosity will decrease and the oil will flow faster though the filter.
@@SeidelRanch I have one more tip for you. You can buy 1 micron filter cloth pretty cheaply (or even 0.3 micron filter clotch), then get 5 gallon bucket and drill a lot of 10 mm holes on the bottom and the sides (drill 200 holes or something). Then put the filter clotch in the bucket, put the used oil into it and leave it out in the sun. In a few hours you should have pretty clean oil. Another method to get REALLY clean oil (looking like brand new) is to mix 300 grams of lye (sodium hydroxide) and a 250 mililiters of 98 % alcohol in a jar, mix it well and then pour it into 10 liters of dirty oil. Then mix the oil for 15 minutes and leave it for a couple of hours. That will separete out all the inpurities in the oil and they will settle in the bottom. Then you just drain the impirities from the bottom. Second step: To get rid of remaing lye in the oil use 2 liters of water and mix well it with the oil. Wait 1 hour and then drain the water out from the bottom (water and oil will separate). The third step is just to heat up the oil to 100°C to dry the oil (get rid of remaing water) and thats it. :) I may sound complicated, but it is really really easy and the ingridients are very cheap. The end result is cristal clear oil, that is looking like new (all the impurities, soot, tar and polimers in the oil have been removed, only the base oil remains). That type of oil is not good for using in the engine as a oil, but you can mix it with diesel and use it as a fuel for diesel engine. Or you can use it to protect wood or other similar stuff. Hope it helps. :)
Yeah, that is true. I only doubled them up to take up space since it would not thread on far enough to hold the 1 o ring against the bucket. Basically the second one was a washer.
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What do you think? Have you done anything like this? I use this oil to lube things around the shop and put on wood decks on my trailers. You can use it in a chainsaw in a pinch. I have not tried it mixed with diesel as fuel, but I have heard people do on older farm equipment. Anyway, let me know what you think. Do you know a better way?
Have you looked into the Frantz toilet paper oil filters? They are cheap and filter to an extreme degree search on you tube.
@@trdscfjc I did not know about those. I gotta try that.
i filter used oil from the autoshop i work at and run it with a mix of diesel in my 80s mercedes 300d and it runs great and saves me a lot of money in fuel plus the shop doesn’t have to pay as much for oil disposal and i get free fuel with a little time and effort
@@jackmurphy2253 Definitely another cool option. Those older tractors would run fine on this.
Don't reuse old oil though. It may be filtered but it breaks down at a molecular level during use, and doesn't have the same qualities and the newer oil it is designed to use. You'll wear your bearings out super quick. You can use it as fuel oil though.
Many years ago I worked with an older gentleman who had grown up during the great depression in a thrid-world country, where oil was hard to get and very expensive. He told me how they cleaned oil to reuse it. He said they put a jug of used oil up on a shelf 6 or 7 feet above the floor. Then they put an empty jug on the floor. Then they put a 1" cotton rope into the used oil jug and ran it up and over the side of the jug and down to the empty jug on the floor. He said you just stick the rope in the used oil and it will wick itself up the rope and down into the empty jug. As it flowed down the cotton rope it filtered the oil and it came out looking like new oil. He said it was clean but still had been used so they either mixed it with new oil or used it 4 quarts of used oil with one quart of oil treatment like STP, and they only used it twice before they replaced it all with new oil, but it helped save money and had to find new oil. He said it takes a while so you just start it and leave it for a month or so. I always change my own oil and I've said many times I was going to try it but I never have.
I have heard of the wicking process, but not with oil. I have to try that. You do what you have to do when times require it. Great info. Thank you.
I heard of this and tried it last year ..... took 30 days to filter a few Oz of oil lol ....but it was way cleaner and smoother and clear then the dirty motor oil it use to be
Use a rolled white towel to hasten the wicking.
One tip. Instead of one rope use more ropes to speedup the filtration process
I will try that. Seem like a sound idea
I just used some coffee filters and it worked great. It took a few hours but it filtered okay.
I haven't used buckets, only a big ex-water bottle and a funnel covered in coffee filters.
I hear coffee filters work great. I need to try that.
Nice. Used oil is good for so many things.
Put a magnet on your filter... It'll catch fine metallics.
Yeah, I find myself using it more than I make it. Thanks for the magnet tip. I will try that.
A roll of dense toilet paper removes all abrasives.dont have to be steel.A magnet helps.
I like this build and the use of the fabric bag. Great idea
Thank you! 😊
The particles you need to eliminate are so fine, they easily pass through any kind of mesh filter. Think about it these particles have already passed through the filter on the vehicle several times. You aren’t filtering anything. Then there is agglomeration, after you “filter” it through that set-up, any fine particles will cling to each other as the oil sits, just creating larger particles/sludge. At best all of this does is thoroughly strain the oil. To truly filter it, you need a centrifugal filter that rotates the oil at very high speeds and traps contaminants as sludge.
For what I use it for this is good enough, but I would love to try a centrifuge just to see how well it does. Thanks for the info.
Had a 305 Honda Motorcycle with a centrifuge. You still have to drain the oil because they dont require makeup oil. Most people prefer the simplicity of a depth oil filter.
I mix 1ltr of used engine oil in a Tub with 5g of Gelatin mixed in 125ml of water. Leave it for 2 days and you are left with thick sludge at the bottom of the tub and clean oil on the top. Gently pour the oil into a second container leaving the sludge behind. I then mix the cleaned oil with 500ml of kerosene, mix well, and I then have 1500,ml of fuel for my kerosene heater. Most probably not good enough for a vehicle engine but perfect for my kerosene heater
@@sparkesman1980 That works for motor oil? I’ve heard it used to clear up vegetable oil, but not motor oil.
The Military is using a lot of Big Gulf Coast filters. An Abrams tank Im told has 2 fuel cells. The fuel is normally only used out of one cell. The fuel in the other cell needs cleaning. They use the big Gulf Coast filters for that. The Big Gulf Coast filters are rated at 99 % at under 1 micron. About the same as the higher quality toilet paper. These systems are portable with a air pump. Also used for aviation fuel and cleaning solvent. Starting to see more on over the road trucks.
Old diesel engines love used motor oil. Gives a smooth idle and a bit better boost in power.
That is true. I could add it to diesel fuel and run it in a number of my old tractors. The uses are endless.
Hi When you say “Old Diesel Engines” do you mean specifically non-common rail , will it not work on common rail Diesel engines ?
@@klecoxs2 I'm not sure about modern diesel engines.
@@texaskidzuk I would not run old motor oil in any newer diesel engine that has direct fuel injection.
I like this setup with a spin-on, esp vs using whole house filters with the mess of changing cartridges. Using old motor oil on wood trailer decks unfiltered I collect a LOT more hydro from servicing my tractors. It doesn't get very dark, and stuff will settle out over a few weeks. I want to copy this. Decent gear oil then for hitch pins or to top up lathe headstocks after adding a wee bit of zinc. I agree with all who mention using magnets anywhere & everywhere.
I bet if you thoroughly filtered full synthetic you could use it almost indefinitely. As long as it never exceeded it's breakdown temperature. I'd love to see someone do an in depth scientific lubrication test. (Also maybe heat it to a certain temperature to evaporate any water contamination).🤷♂️
I was going to fashion a type of boiler one day that heats from our wood stove to get the water out of old oil, but have not done that yet.
That's a good idea. There are a lot of uses for that. I probably won't do it myself, but if you want my old oil I can give it to you.
Well if you come over one day and have some on hand you need to get rid of, sure. Don't make an extra trip for me though.
If you put it up higher with a longer down pipe, it will drain much faster. The longer your down pipe is, the more pressure there will be.
Hmm, so you are saying the added pressure from gravity or more suction like a syphon?
@@SeidelRanch Both
Of course, oil has various "packages" added to it, which evaporate or break down over time--including anti-sludge additives, detergents, dispersants, etc.
Right. I would not want to use it as motor oil again. Just give it more life buy using it for other good purposes.
That's something to think about. I bet there are a lot of good uses for oil engine oil. I have heard of people using it on wood. Also, people burn it for heat.
Yeah, I want to make a homemade smudge pot to burn oil in. So many ideas, so little time.
I love the ingenuity
When you want fine sediment to fall out of wine you add bentonite clay, there are other clearing agents that work even better. It is a polarized particle that attracts and attaches to any floating particles and eventually settles to the bottom. This could take a few weeks, I dont know how it would work in something as viscous as oil but it would be an interesting experiment. Add some bentonite to oil in a jar, stir it up to mix it into solution and leave it in the closet for a few months. Poor or siphon off the top leaving the sludge at the bottom
This might sound crazy but I also considered putting a flat metal plate at the bottom of the bin and soldering a wire to it. Drill a tiny hole in the bottom of the bucket and caulk it to seal it back up. Then attach the positive terminal of a battery to it. Take a metal rod and attach the negative terminal to it. Stir the oil vigorously with the rod, dont touch the the plate and rod while stirring. In theory this would negatively charge suspended particles with electrons and they would be attracted to the metal plate. Maybe stir it every once in a while and leave the electrode suspended in the oil. Not sure how conductive used oil is. In theory it would become increasingly less conductive with time. Would be a fun experiment.
All very good info. Thank you. I like those ideas.
Bentonite can be reused?
Use a bypass oil cartridge. Most of them filter to 5 microns
Thanks. I will check that out.
Yes; the Baldwin BT839-10 has a "Nominal" Micron rating of 12 (which obviously from this video doesn't do a very good job at cleaning the carbon out), but Baldwin's B164 Bypass Filter oddly doesn't state a Nominal rating, but states an Absolute one at 15 Microns. - So best to find some other brand. --- I wonder if a 2 Micron Fuel Filter would work on this setup.
best to use a bypass filter during the operation of the vehicle. fs-2500 go's down to 1 micron at $35 a pop.
What does a shopping bag filter??? a black oil into black oil?
It just gets out the lumps and chunks from collecting and handling, so a cheap pre-filter.
You need a much better filter. I think of using the denim cotton pant leg in a pipe.
Better yet, get two pant legs , one inside of the other sewn together making square 2” plaid pattern blocks filled with non clumping kitty litter. The pipe is 5” dia steel lined with expanded metal for the pant leg to press against providing path for filtered oil to escape.
You need end caps. And a means of hydrolic pressure to push the oil thou, perhaps an oil oil pump from dead engine.
Heating the oil will make it flow better.
All really great ideas. Thank you! I plan to redo this a little and I will definitely add some of that in.
I'd add magnets to collect the metal particulates in various stages and a 3 stage carbon filter. It cleans it way better
I will look into that. Thanks!
I doubt you have magnacleans in the us so you’d have to import from the UK but we use them to filter heating water, the water goes black from the inside of steel radiators, so I imagine the black in oil is also metal that hopefully is magnetic, you could just get a strong magnet and drop it in the oil first then if you wanted to go extreme get an Adey magna cleasne
I will try that. I wonder if I can put a big magnet on the outside bottom of the bucket if it will help.
As dansmith5524 says below, I to have seen this rope method used, just be aware that the spesial lubricating properties new oil have will not return with any method of cleaning the oil. If you intend to run it in a engine never use more than 50% cleaned oil with the rest being new/unused and remember that the life span will be shorter. For wood treatment or burning as fuel however this works well. With your current method add a valve so you can shut the oil of and use a finer filter to get better (and slower) results, may be a fine diesel/fuel filter would yield "cleaner" results. A pump would speed things up and allow the second bucket to be above the first so the oil can do several trips through the filter.
Great tips. Thanks.
I take used oil to melt scrap metal. Also use it on my Bobcat trailer. It can also be mixed with diesel and gasoline and burned as a Diesel substitute. A centrifuge works best for filtering.
So you can get the oil fire that hot to melt the metal? Sounds like a good experiment. I want to make a waste oil heater in the near future. That looks pretty cool. I use old motor oil on my trailer beds too. It works well to keep away rot. I am just now looking into the centrifuge idea. That looks like something I might get soon.
@@SeidelRanch Yes it is possible to melt copper, aluminum, brass and even cast iron using oil. It works best when pressurized with an old hydraulic pump and sprayed into a burner, blow air in and get an extremely hot flame.
@@chargermopar I will try that with some aluminum when I make one. I am definitely going to make one, I just need to find the time. Thanks as always for all the helpful info.
@@SeidelRanch If you melt aluminum you have to make a container (crucible) to protect it from the fire to avoid most of it oxidizing. I start with cast aluminum scrap which is less likely to oxidize than can put in thin stuff like soda cans or sheet metal from sheds or campers. Compressing thin stuff before melting can work too. Baking soda can also work as a flux but borax seems to be the best.
@@SeidelRanch I need to put mine back together someday, the scrap pile is really getting out of hand here. Lots of air conditioner scrap and junk transmission cases.
Used motor oil...Check out the Pyrolysis method..You can use a wood BBQ for the heat source..Main usage is heating oil for this stuff...
I will check it out. An oil burner is on my list to make.
Why did you use 2 rings per side as oppose to single oil ring both sides?
i wonder if it is bypassing the oil filter seeing as it is so thick im thinking the filter is filling up and then just running off
It's not bypassing. The housing will not let the oil through without it going through the filter. I just think I need a filter that cleans down to a smaller micron amount. It's good enough for my purposes though. I want to try a centrifuge one day.
@@SeidelRanch cool! great idea!
Genius and simple too.
Glad you think so! Thanks.
you missed to notice tha oil is still black and dirty for reuse in a car.
This means oil filters are placed to filter only bigger metal particles. Microparticles are easily passing through so called oil filters.
Yes, that is true. Only the big stuff.
What is the oil filter housing off of? Looks like it’s set up good. Looking to get something similar for my setup. Thanks
It's actually a fuel filter housing like this: amzn.to/3urc1Uj
Where are the magnets to collect. The metallic bits?
I think a hubcap ring off the side of the road comes to mind.
And more filters use 5 or 6 bags, give it a fue days
I am sure I can find a hubcap. Will have to see if that fits.
You can use that old oil in an oil burning heater too.
I was thinking of trying to make one of those. I may look more into that.
Do u have a parts list available and where u bought all parts ??
I don't because I built it from stuff I had, but here is some of what I used:
Filter Top Cap: amzn.to/42fozMF
Engine Oil Filter: amzn.to/3oMihq3
Wjat was the end result after you let it sit?
Filtered black oil. The good part is it got rid of all the junk that had gotten into the oil AFTER I had pulled it form the engines. There was grass, dirt and things like that in some of it.
Tape a couple strong magnets to the the side of the bucket n see if that helps with some of the small metal pieces
That is a good idea. I need to try that.
It doesn't work, I've already tried it with strong neodymian magnets. I also tried oil in a plastic bottle with magnets at one side of the bottle and let it sit there for month & months hoping it would slowly pull the dirt to one side but it did nothing.
@@PF-gi9vv Thanks. Good info to know.
Thank you for sharing your video .
Thank you for watching. Hope it was helpful in some way.
Oil never goes bad. Its the impurities that causes it to become dirty and no longer hold the consistency for proper motor oil.
Yeah, I don't plan on using it again as motor oil but it has so many other uses I like to keep it around. As long as I can filter out anything major I am good. Of course I would love to get it so clean it was clear.
Im thinking one of those dust collector lids would work to use a shop vac exhaust as added pressure. Help force the oil through the filter faster. Possibly add a pump past the filter.
Do you think pressure would filter it better? I could try that if it will. Time is not usually something I worry about for something like this because it's a pour and leave kind of setup, but if pressure will make it filter better I am all for that.
@@SeidelRanch I think it depends on how fast you push the oil, and if you do it too fast it cant filter as well maybe?
@@TobySmith-qd4tm Yeah, not sure on the hydraulics of that.
Did you make any progress on this?
I still use it but I have not changed it much. It's still working great. I do plan to make some of the suggested changes when I need to change the filter.
@@SeidelRanch Is there a way to get rid of the coal in the oil to make it more transparent?
@@FransvandenBergeMuziekschuur I hear that a centrifuge can do it, but I have not tried it.
@@SeidelRanch Interesting. Thank you.
Nice setup. I was looking for a way to thin my chainsaw bar oil, its way too thick when it gets cold. I found canola oil works also but this gives me a few ideas on how to get rid of used motor oil. Nice video but you need a cheap 1/4 turn spigot on the end.
That's a cool idea. Thanks.
Just use your used motor oil for bar oil.
Has anyone tried this with ATF?
I have not.
Not for reuse ever in a transmission. But mixed 50/50 with acetone it's a premier solvent for rusty fasteners. It's also better than any lube oil for cutting/drilling ferrous metals. Some will use it to top up power steering. that said, mixed in with other drained oil it should be ok for other than putting it back where it came from.
Excellent idea. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Have you thought about an oil separating centrifuge?
I have, but I have not bought one yet.
Where to buy not sure what it is or what I'm looking for ?
If the oil come out of a piece of equipment with a filter, then it's already filtered. The oil is black because its dirty. Even stepping down to a 10 micron filter wont change the color. Try using a heater and centrifuge next.
Most of it is filtered, but some can have contaminates in it like dirt or whatever as I am under the machine draining it. Like changing the oil on my dozer or skid steer, dirt finds it's way in. But, yes, the filter is going to only do so much. I would love to try that (heating and centrifuge). I bet that would pull out all kinds of more junk from it. Now just to convince the wife I need one.
My question is what does everyone do with the empty bottles especially when they stored the used disgusting oil? The auto parts store always hands them back.
I reuse the oil containers to hold the old oil. I probably have too many right now, but I have not gotten rid of them. I also cut them up sometimes and use them to dip my oil-less chainsaws in to keep the bars oiled. If they are empty, you should be able to recycle them like plastic (I think, don't hold me to that). Make sure you let them sit for a day or so to get out all the oil you can.
@@SeidelRanch Thanks.
I use old motor oil thinned with diesel to paint on my wood trailer decks. You need to paint them every year because it doesn’t last, summer is the best time because the wood soaks it up. I don’t see any reason to filter the oil unless your going to put it in a lawnmower.
I use the oil for my wood decks too. Why do you mix it with diesel? Does it paint on better? May try that.
@@SeidelRanch I use the diesel as a thinner, the thin oil diesel mixture soaks into the dry wood in the hot summer a lot better than straight oil. I pour old in 5 gal bucket and add desired amount of diesel then it can be sprayed or most time I use a old broom for a brush. I also pour on or spray fence post with the mix. I would be careful with that since you live on a lake, you could have people in white suits showing up at your door.
Be interesting to see just how clean you can get it by whatever means!! Heating!, adding detergent, how do companies actually refine crude oil, ???
I wanted to do that, but it seems a lot of the tools to really get it nice are rather expensive. I will keep working on it.
Why didn't you put your hole in the flat bottom of the bucket and avoisthe curves
There was a reason at the time, but honestly, I can't remember. Good question.
Side exit eases putting the bucket on a bench or shelf to use or store. Those curves/elbows won't impede the flow any.
Cool idea.
Thank you.
You know oil breaks down it's not just dirty it breaks down picture oil is a bunch of tiny ball bearings well dissolve 90% of those ball bearings or remove them and then consider putting that back into your engine cuz that's a pretty good analogy on how viscosity works in a motor oil you're putting back a useless product don't do it farm equipment's too damn expensive
I do and you are right. I will not use it for motor oil. But there is a lot of other uses for it. Thanks for the info.
Use 3 or 4 green bags. Maybe put a magnet in bag or bucket
You need to pressurize the system with an oil pump and recirculate it with a bypass filter that is 100 micron
I think I will try that. It will also make it less messy I think.
@@SeidelRanch the Cummins has a bypass filter kit you can put on the engine even and do this while the vehicle is running. Works well in old tractors or hay rigs that run non stop. But I clean mine then add the h30 additive that puts the elements back in I want. And for a 60 year old diesel tractor does just fine. I use my old subaru sti oil rotella 5w40 specifically. Filter that and add h30 and add it to my tractors. Then the tractor oil gets used in a waste oil heater. It’s pretty bad after the tractor.
Oil also doesn’t really change in molecularity, it does loose its properties such as zinc, phosphorus, boron, thus the additive to bring the levels back. I use h30 after watching firepunk use it successfully. But any other additive should bring the oil back to life once filtered
I use to have a jeep that used toilet paper for the filter .
I'm using old Covid filter mask to filter hydraulic oil as I type this
Nice. Gotta use those masks for something, right. I have heard about those toilet paper filters. Heard they work really well.
Ive used toilet paper filters since 1963. Oil should stay clear in a gasoline engine and get black in a diesel. They use big roll paper towels on locomotive engines on Shell offshore rigs and others. You know the oil in a diesel engine is clean if it doesnt stain the skin. The big Gulf Coast filter is rated at 99 percent at under 1 micron. Thats about as good as it gets. The Australian Jackmaster Classic claims 1 micron. My 84 Subaru went 250.000 miles with no oil drains. No engine problems except both head gaskets started leaking oil before it reached 300.000 miles.
Good for diesel fuel! Put in a gallon of gas and that’s 5 gallons of black diesel.
I have never made black diesel but I might try that in some of my old equipment.
lower the filter 2 ft and you'll gain pressure
Good tip, thanks.
You get more pressure by raising the bucket. I have a very old Motor Guard portable oil recycler. Its a container with a Motor Guard oil pump and a Motor Guard. Oil cleaner that used toilet paper. Its probably over 50 years old. Motor Guard only makes compressed air filters now. Found it on Ebay. Havent seen one since.
The original equipment that used the oil has a filter. And it circulated a hundred million times through that filter. Why did you think running it through an identical filter one single time would clean it at all? Ridiculous!
Well, in the video I explained why. When you drain the oil from an oil pan, you get sludge and metal parts that sunk to the bottom and never went through the oil filter. Add that to the stuff that falls off the oil pan when changing the oil and the other conditions like the wind and you can get contaminates in the oil you did not expect. That is why I run it through a filter again. I am not going to use it as motor oil again, but there are many other uses for this waste oil.
It's time to get into this. Some of mine has water dirt and oak leaves from the pan. Maybe an acorn or two and some bugs. I need a water separator. I wonder how much a centrifuge is.
That is why I did it. My oil gets too dirty just doing the oil change. To get the water out, I pour it in a bucket and let it sit then drill a whole in it to let the water out. Once I see oil coming out I plug it with a screw.
but..this is just one more filtering of oil that has been run THROUGH A FILTER HUNDREDS OF TIMES IN ITS lifetime in USE!how can one more filtering help it at all? it needs thinned with heat,,,then ran through a flilter small enough to clean the black out of it..this single process is a waste of time!..
This process was to get out anything that did not go through a filter, like metal that has been sitting in the bottom of your oil pan. This is also to make sure any junk that entered from the oil change like dirt from the oil pan and whatever else got in the drain pan. The 1st bucket filter caught all kinds of garbage when I poured it in.
That makes sense that makes sense good call yea weee wooooooooooo
I need this machine is how much price
I had to make it. The parts should be in the description.
yeah that's centrifugal force one if you want it to come out clear you have to either put coffee filters there's filters that they have for cleaning frying oil at the restaurant those filters will work coffee filters and there's actual a powder that you can put on the filters it's a neutralizer and your oil will come out brand new and you could reuse it in the car and everything it just has a different flash point and you could reuse in another time or two there's also a machine you could buy that does it but it's very expensive they're about $1,500 it's an oil cleaner it'll clean any oil but it uses suction system cool I love that video
Thanks for all the info. I may see if coffee filters do good too. Would love a centrifuge but don't want to spend the money.
The additive package will be degraded/depleted.
Very true. It's not good for engine oil anymore without more modification.
Everyone saying you can filter the black out of the oil is lying. The color changes due to a chemistry change in the oil. The black color is now the color of the actual oil, not some particulate you can filter out.
Good to know. All of my used oil is very black, even after the filter.
Still looking pretty nasty. I'd try a better filter.... Maybe a 1 micron polyester water filter. They are pretty cheap on eBay and Amazon. The best automobile oil filter that you can get is a 20 micron 20,000 MI filter.
I'd go for the one micron and it might clean up the color also.
If the oil doesn't want to flow with the more restrictive filter you can always add air pressure to force it.
I want to try that. I will see what I can find.
If the oil doesn't want to flow with the more restrictive filter you can add air pressure OR just leave it out in a sun to warm up, the viscosity will decrease and the oil will flow faster though the filter.
@@drister007 Good tip. Thanks.
@@SeidelRanch No problem :) ps: It is funny when i edited the comment, just to add one word, the heart dissapeared haha :O
@@SeidelRanch I have one more tip for you. You can buy 1 micron filter cloth pretty cheaply (or even 0.3 micron filter clotch), then get 5 gallon bucket and drill a lot of 10 mm holes on the bottom and the sides (drill 200 holes or something). Then put the filter clotch in the bucket, put the used oil into it and leave it out in the sun. In a few hours you should have pretty clean oil. Another method to get REALLY clean oil (looking like brand new) is to mix 300 grams of lye (sodium hydroxide) and a 250 mililiters of 98 % alcohol in a jar, mix it well and then pour it into 10 liters of dirty oil. Then mix the oil for 15 minutes and leave it for a couple of hours. That will separete out all the inpurities in the oil and they will settle in the bottom. Then you just drain the impirities from the bottom.
Second step: To get rid of remaing lye in the oil use 2 liters of water and mix well it with the oil. Wait 1 hour and then drain the water out from the bottom (water and oil will separate). The third step is just to heat up the oil to 100°C to dry the oil (get rid of remaing water) and thats it. :) I may sound complicated, but it is really really easy and the ingridients are very cheap. The end result is cristal clear oil, that is looking like new (all the impurities, soot, tar and polimers in the oil have been removed, only the base oil remains). That type of oil is not good for using in the engine as a oil, but you can mix it with diesel and use it as a fuel for diesel engine. Or you can use it to protect wood or other similar stuff. Hope it helps. :)
Never stack gaskets or O rings.
Yeah, that is true. I only doubled them up to take up space since it would not thread on far enough to hold the 1 o ring against the bucket. Basically the second one was a washer.
You should consider the cost.
I have. I would not use this as motor oil in an engine again. If it went into an engine, it would be as fuel.
Add kerosene and make a great wood stain
I'm not process of making an oil burner for out building
Its filtered. Now what?
I have found a few good uses for old filtered motor oil, but I find more as I go. Right now I am looking at building a waste oil heater.
3 rolls of toilet paper & 60 watt bulb.thats all. thats HOW.
We need demonstration teaching and not too much talking
I am glad you loved the video.
Waste of time.
I don't think so. Cleaning something enough to reuse it for other purposes is useful.
سيدي اشكر جهدك الرائع
اود تعلمني طريقه اجعل الزيت المستعمل الاسود يرجع اصفر ..وليس مهم خصائصه الكيميائيه
واحترامي لجميع من علقوا
I am still trying to get it to do that.