One thing to keep in mind is that the oil itself darkens as it gets heated. Something to do with the smaller molecule chains gassing off. You can test this by heating new oil up to 150C+. It will darken pretty quickly. The upper piston rings get this hot and so does the oil in that area.
@@Fr3sh-Kush That usually means that someone missed the oil change interval too much. Oil sludges towards the end of its life leaving buildup in the head, pan, and channels. Change your oil more frequently to help with that. (3-4k miles.)
Oil filters aren't meant to catch fine particulates, their purpose is to catch larger objects that might cause damage to a motor. If they were fine enough to catch everything, they would clog up after a few hours of driving if not sooner.
Full flow filters aren't, but many Heavy Duty diesels now use something like a 2 micron absolute bypass filters in addition to the full flow filters to remove soot from the suspension, the full flow protects against big stuff, and running a couple gallons per hour through the bypass cleans the soot out as to not overload the dispersant package for the long change intervals of like 30,000-60,000miles(50-100kkm) or 750-1600hrs spec'd on many class 8 vehicles now.
I had a corolla that I just dumped some good high mileage synthetic oil into, and since it burned about a quart every 3,000 miles, I just replaced the filter and topped it off for the longest time, and it did well.
I had a 78 K10 with a 454 and 4 speed. We used it on the farm for years. After it started burning a quart of oil every tank of gas, we switched to 90W gear oil. Poured in two quarts of oil stop leak and called it a day. It ran for at least ten years after that. It was a great truck and would pull like a dozer. Unfortunately a tornado collapsed the barn it was in. It was beyond repair and the insurance company hauled it away.
Some people in the Philippines use old used motor oil to coat and preserve wood. It actually looks pretty good, although the smell probably isn't so good.
You might be removing any crud that's gotten into the oil, but I doubt you're effectively renewing the oil itself. The heat from the engine breaks down the hydrocarbons in the oil into substituents over time, and this can't really be remedied. You can't just put those molecules back together without some serious chemistry. Even if the oil is now clean of foreign debris, the lubricating performance will be seriously degraded. There is no replacement for an actual oil change. Your engine will thank you if you do things properly. This is certainly interesting, though. I bet this would get you a few thousand extra kilometers out of your oil if you for some reason have a crap load of filters just lying around. I'm sure you could devise a more cost effective filtration system, though. Either way, it probably makes more sense to just send your used oil to a recycler who actually has the equipment to remove the "worn out" substituents and fraction off the remaining good oil for further use. You could technically do this yourself, though, which could be a cool project for you guys.
Oil lasts a lot of miles before it starts breaking down. It gets contaminated relatively fast though. On thermoking reefer units the diesel engine runs the equivalent of 100,000 miles between oil changes. I've seen some where they got forgotten about and ran for well over 4000 hours (equivalent to 200k miles)
Some fifty years ago my dad put a "toilet Paper Filter" on the car and it removed all the coloration of the oil. It used a roll of toilet paper as the filter. The problem with them was that they filtered out some of the additives that had been added to the oil such as anti-foaming agents.
Purchased a 59 Ford pickup in 71 someone had install a toilet paper filter on it. It seemed to work okay but we removed it after a few months noticed the toilet paper breaking down as it's meant to do last thing you want is paper clogging the oil pump pickup screen. I believe they were sold to JC Whitney LOL
@@Ozarkprepper643they still sell those filters. If the paper is breaking down, youre using the wrong paper and/or leaving it too long between changes. Its supposed to be the almost shiny tightly wound stuff traditionally bought by sadists for use in public dunnies in restaurants and petrol stations to stop cheapskates stealing it.
Another bull shit story that comes with toilet paper filters. Everything I have had since 1963 with an oil pump ive put a toilet paper filter on. If toilet paper broke down in motor oil I would know about it. When I pull out a roll of toilet paper I expect it to be strong and tear at each sheet. Started with a Frantz oil cleaner in 1963. Went with the top loaders in the 80s. The Pontiac has a Australian Jackmaster Classic. As far as I know they are the best in production. They are all good.
I believe JC Whitney sold a spin on filter that replaced the full flow filter. They had a relief valve that was always open when the engine was running. Converted the full flow system to a bypass filter system. A Frantz dealer had Frantz 3 stackers all over the Gulf of Mexico on heavy duty marine engines. When the Frantz 3 stackers went out of production they were replaced with Filters that use Bounty big roll paper towels.Thats the Gulf Coast filter of Gulfport Mississippi. I have read aircraft oil analysis reports. Saw the FAA approved AeroFrantzs on crop dusters north of Sedan Kansas about 1980. No the filters dont remove additives unless its a solid like graphite.
The discoloration of the oil is in relation to the porousness if the filter medium. The best way that I can think of to clean the oil is a centrifugal filter system when the oil is spun at a high rate of speed that causes the "weight" of the "dirt/discoloration" to become extremely heavy whilst suspended in the oil due to the centrifugal force being exerted on the "weight" of the "dirt" ,in turn it will stick to the wall of the housing of the filter. This method was used on diesel trucks in conjunction with the standard oil filters back in the day when I used to work as a trade hand at a truck depot before I did my apprentice 35 years ago to become a plumber/drainlayer.
My father had a shop where he worked on big diesels, all the used oil went into a big heating oil tank with a block heater in it. He would pump it through some big filters and then into a sink with a return line to the tank. Hot oil is good for cleaning parts and even gets great off your hands pretty good. He also had a filter press that would crush all the oil out of the used filters.
I used to work in an electrical workshop where we had a filter press to recycle transformer oil. It used a long stack of filter discs through which hot oil was plumbed through many times.
it works that's an old trick. 4 quarts of new oil and a quart of diesel or kerosene diesels cheaper. if it's an old engine you'll get some crap to break loose and come out. I've done it on tractors.
Wouldn't matter. The Color isn't from particulate suspended in the oil, the color is from being heated and cooked, oil in a pan will brown as it is subjected to heat. Engine oil is no different.
Since 1963 my oil has always been clear on the dipstick. I started in 1963 with a Frantz oil cleaner and Standard Delo 30W. My Pontiac Torrent has a Australian Jackmaster Classic and Walmart synthetic oil. The Wix XP is to protect the engine from anything in the flow of oil to the engine large enough to damage the engine. There are no full flow filters that turn the oil clear. That requires a depth bypass filter. The depth filters than replace the full flow filters such as a Trasco or Stilco have a large bypass valve that stays open as long as the engine is running. Now you have a bypass filter system.
Many years ago I saw a story of a custom aftermarket oil filter system installed alongside the normal filter. The filter it used was an actual toilet paper roll and the fineness of toilet paper filtered out all the fine carbon and kept the oil very clean.
Every engine I have with a oil pump has a toilet paper filter including the lawn mowers. Started with a Frantz oil cleaner on my Rambler American in 1963. My Pontiac Torrent has a Australian Jackmaster Classic. The other engines use Gulf Coasts. Motor Guards and a flat head Ford V8 canister filter set up to use Scott 1000. It has half a roll of Viva towels in it now. They dont like to be called toilet paper filters. Too many bull shit stories and stupid jokes with toilet paper. Jackmaster Classic comes with a high quality roll of toilet paper in a sock. They charge about 20 bucks for them. I use Great Value 1000 from Walmart in mine. To remove the used roll I use long nosed pliers. The Jackmaster Classic element has a pull ring.
That is why I use a really high-end oil filter (like one by CAT), along with an oil catch can, an oil cooler, and also a magnet to help catch any metallic particulates. One thing I would suggest trying is getting a chemistry setup so that you can try distilling motor oil to purify it.
A lot of big paper towel filters are going to the government now. Mostly the Military. I got into a debate with a NASA diesel equipment engineer on a trawler forum years ago. Now they use them. They were moving the shuttle then. Thats the Gulf Coast filter company out of Gulfport Mississippi. I told Charlie Sims of Gulf Coast filters to send someone down to Canaveral that understands big engines. They didnt need to talk about my Ford diesel truck.
@@Petrolhead99999 It certainly wasn't intended as a bait! My point was more that if the oil is black, then it won't be able to filter it out, as it's already gone through the filter 1000's of times and wasn't filtered.
Yeah, the black is mostly carbon particles which are very small, you could use a partical filter but that would restrict oil flow unless the area of the filter was great enough.
I've done oil changes to diesel engines that had 1 huge oil filter on it, so it's got lots of filter media surface, but the oil was still black, when it came in for service. I don't see how 50 clean oil filters will make black oil clean, besides even if it worked, the oil will be thinned out and won't be able to properly protect the moving parts in the motor. Also keep in mind, each time you remove the oil filter, you will lose some oil, so using 50 oil filters on 1 motor, with same black oil, the oil level will drop gradually, since the oil filter holds limited amounts of oil in it, with oil levels lowering, to keep the level full, it would require to be topped up. The price of 50 oil filters is way more costly compared to doing a oil change with 1 new oil filter, and new motor oil, 2 jugs of motor oil, and you will still have enough motor oil for top ups.
I cleaned used oil using a metal powdered milk can and 2 rolls of toilet paper. I pulled the centers out of the rolls and pushed them down into the tin. I had previously drilled holes about 2 cm high from the bottom in the tin. I just poured the oil down the center of the rolls and caught the much cleaner oil in a bucket that the tin was sitting over.😁
As the engine runs it leaves more deposits for the oil to take and lift into suspension, that's one of the main functions of engine oil. Clear used oil after filtration doesn't mean the additives are working as friction modifiers anymore.
I love your videos here in North Carolina. Another way to do the experiment is to go to the salvage yard and get 50 individual filter mounting bases. Hook them all together in a long line so that oil is being filtered over and over, through each consecutive filters. Start with about 15 or 20 liters of used oil, and pump it through the chain of filters to see if the filters will clean the color of the oil at the end.
I send samples to a chek lab and I forgot one around two weeks in my locker. The oil was yellow and on the bottom was some black stuff. I don't know if the clear part was good to be used again but it sure looks good. Next time I want to send them only clear oil and wait for the result.
I really like the videos and attention you put into them. I'll tell you what my Grandfather used to say, he'd say oil never wears out, it just gets dirty. He'd only replace the oil filter and add the amount of oil the old filter removed. Then drive the vehicles forever.
I have a Freezer that hasnt had an oil change in over 50 years. Clean oil will last forever. The freezer wont hold it forever. My 37 Studebaker book said its not necessary to change the oil except for seasonal reasons. Change the filter when the oil looks dirty on the depth gauge.(dipstick). Seasonal reasons meant thinner oil for winter. I think they used cotton. John Frantz started putting superior 2 ply toilet paper in them in 1953.
The city of Memphis didn't experiment back in the seventies or eighties with their trucks change the oil regularly and half and just change the filter and added on the others then they tore both engines apart and no damage they both look identical
You can do a simple oil analysis for contaminants using some card stock (blank business card works great) Put one drop of oil in the middle of the card stock on a level surface. The oil will spread out in a circle after about an hour. All the contaminants will settle out in rings withing the circle like growth rings on a tree. These rings will settle out with heavy material in the center (metal) then other contaminants and finally the outer ring will be the soot load. This is called a blotter test. You can compare these cards at different mileage intervals to determine when to change.
I think you would have gotten much better results if you used a extremely high filtration filter like a royal purple oil filter. They are like 95% efficient at 5 microns.
When he said he would use 50 filters for the engine oil, i knew that it wouldn't be possible. Little oil remaining in the filters adds up to litres after a while.
Some good lab filtering paper or even coffee filter under a vacum can claean it somehow. I sometimes use them to clean solvent that i have for cleaning parts. Coffee filter can stop a sot from old diesel at least from mineral spirits. It's never perfect again but allows to be bit more eco friendly in workshop
The long chains break down into shorter ones, reducing film strength(the thing that actually keeps the metal parts from touching each other) and lubricity. This is improved with synthetic oils but all of them have a service live regardless of additives or contamination. Edit: it also gets acidic.
First you need a filter that cleans oil. I use toilet paper filters. Then you need to change the toilet paper and add enough new makeup oil to keep the additives up to specs. For my Pontiac driven mostly highway thats a toilet paper change and a new quart of Walmart synthetic oil every 6.000 miles. Make adjustments for different driving conditions. It doesnt matter which of the toilet paper filters you use. The Australian Jackmaster Classic is the best set up to use the newer toilet paper with the bigger cores and shorter paper. The Jackmaster Classic requires a firm paper such as Scott 1000. I use Great Value 1000 from Walmart.
If you want to make a good filter all you need it's a piece of pipe with a cotton rope inside of it jamed tight. Filter the oil through the cotton rope it will come out clean on the other side
The trucks we used on the flightline, ran 24 hours a day, seven days a week. They mostly idled, but could get up to 15 mph at times. The motor pool changed oil based on mileage, not hours. That was some nasty looking oil, after a couple of weeks.
I've driven over the road for different trucking companies most would push the trucks 30,000 miles before an oil change considering they work almost every mile they run the engine still go 700,000 before a rebuild. I averaged 120,000- 130,000 miles a year.
I was kind of expecting you guys to put all the filters together and filter the oil all at once can’t wait for the next video I watch out the car companies might come after you
Bypass filters for semis that allow a hundred thousand miles between oil changes are a not-new thing. They're the size of a roll of paper towels and are crammed full, not just a layer of paper for the oil to filter through. Diesel oil darkens very soon after oil change due to soot capture that the oil is engineered for. So many of garage54's ideas are silly, for show. This was another. Glad someone can take the time for these experiments with nonchalance.
if they are individual atoms, they will not have color. They have to be together in compounds/lumps/piles big enough to bounce or shift light wavelengths.
yeah but old oil is still old oil, even if you filter it good enough that it becomes clear again. Its not just micro particles, its also the properties old the oil that degrade over time and use, and thats way more important than the particles themselves. The main issue is that oil loses its viscosity and so it starts causing an accelerated wear on the parts. Its like trying to use water instead of oil. Water is thin and so it doesnt have enough strength to keeps the parts from rubbing against each other.
@@laharl2k this engine is gasoline so water also stays inside... 50 Filters price more$$$ than new oil :-) And all the 'acid' stuff that comes from combusting byproduct inside the engine
New filter + Fresh cheap 0W30 or 5W40 synthetic "hc" hydrocracking oil where the manufacturer openly marked it on the label with clean engine + Long distance, fast travel with hot hot hot engine = immediately oil change with hot oil and everything dispersed still in it REPEAT the above again.. Then expensive good pao fully synthetic based oil Always do oil changes in lower frequency to "wash" away the old dirt from owner neglect before! Do not use oil cleaning additives as every bit of trash goes through the engine and it give immediate high wear and can kill engine If you hate Lady use sand as oil
80% diesel fuel + 20% engine oil, new filter, run for 10-15mins, maybe drive around the block, but no high revs, temps or load. Then a normal oil change. Did this more than once, the engines´ insides went from dark, sludge covered surfaces to shiny metal again. All except one are still doing well, and that one went with car when that started to rust faster than I could weld. There´s just one downside, but that applies to professional products as well: If there´s a gasket in the engine which just still seals because of accumulated residue...
I read this and was like hmmm. Ive heard of oil testing and if it was still good the farmers would pour the oil into their tractors as a way to recycle the oil until it was thoroughly done for or consumed.
@@sweettooth7124 maybe thats the problem xD an old farmer not an engine builder sure it still works but why put unnecessary stress on the engine if it would last a lot longer with just fresh actually correct oil
When I was selling Gulf Coast filters a guy brought me a Dodge Cummins. He said put this Amsoil in and install a Gulf Coast filter. I asked what was in the truck. He said Shell Rotella 15 w40. I said yes sir. I had a new drain pan.
I know motor oil is absolutely recyclable, many auto parts stores here allow you to dump it there for recycling. I dont know how much of it they re-process back into motor oil, or how hard it is to do, but it IS possible to to make old oil like new again. Somehow. Biggest problem is removing the carbon and acid contamination, and repairing the viscosity.
When I was in high school I got a $10 a week allowance that was to buy my lunches and gas any extra was a bonus. Yeah I'm that old. My old 62 Falcon with an inline 6 drank oil. It dumped it out tailpipe and the engine breather tube. Had a motorcycle cop pull me over one day, he was pissed, spladder oil all over his uniform. Oil was expensive so instead of paying the $0.30 a quart I bought what was called Rev. Recycle oil, it was actually amber color. Best of all $0.18 a quart. And at close to 20 mph which was a lot in those days, plus $0.29 a gallon gas I actually had a little allowance left over for the Friday Night Football game.
I was a maintenance mechanic for a oil re refinery company. Conventional oil gets better every time it is refined. At one time Mercedes cars came new with re refined oil. Goodyear sold ours in quarts. Most of it goes to the major oil companies. Its as clear as water until they put additives in it. A lot of synthetic oil in it now. With used oil you arent dealing with the crap in crude oil. People wont buy it. They want the new stuff.
In 1955 I left home at 15 and worked in a DX station in the middle of nowhere. I lived there. The owner gave me some guns in case the thugs came up from Pawhuska Oklahoma and tried to rob me. He thought it would be fun to scare me one night. He scratched at the window and shined a flashlight under his chin. I slept with his 38 under the pillow. He almost met his maker. When I ran out of stuff to sell I went down to a Phillips 66 station. One day the sheriff came and asked me some questions. The next day dad came and told me if I didnt go back to school him and the station owner were going to jail. I managed to finish school and went into the Army.
Here is a idea you can do as I did it many years ago. I took a 20 liter steel drum filled it with used engine oil, the cap I drilled a hole in with a pipe welded on and another small pipe welded on for air pressure. On the cap with the pipe I welded a expanded metal pipe on with the end capped, then took toilet paper and rolled it around the expanded pipe many times and put it in drum and pressured the drum, at first the first 2 liter oil was slightly clearer but getting to 10 liter it became clear. I won't recommend engine oil as combustion process changes the chemical properties but gearbox oil can be used over again.
Oils purpose is to lubricate and cool engine. Oil filter is roughly 20 microns. Oil has expiration time , due to number of kilometers, and the way of engine work. One japanese engineer from Mazda advised, that people should change oil after 5000km.
I read that (some years ago) British Rail never threw their old engine oil away, from their diesel trains and vehicles. It was all sent to a special place, and a Centrifuge was used. The cleaned and scrubbed engine oil then went back into service. If this is possible, then why isn't this used more commercially?
Filters can only remove particulate matter. Doesn't replace the long chain polymers and doesn't remove the oxidation of the oil itself as well as the friction modifiers and other additives. For any particulates smaller than the pore size of the filter, they remain suspended in the oil and can only be removed by getting rid of the oil and replacing it.
@@aeroflopper yes my 65 Honda 305 motorcycle had a internal chain drive centrifuge. My Honda 500 Custom had a Frantz oil cleaner upside down back behind a saddle bag.
I had a Toyota Corolla 4wd Touring that burned about a liter a week. I just topped off the oil for 2 years. I drove that thing about 50k kms and I changed the filter twice😂 it did fine. Surprisingly the reason it died was not the engine giving up, but rather the rear wheel bearings for a 4wd corolla were not available anywhere in the world. So I scrapped it. Best damn car I ever had. Outwheeled every single subaru in the heavy Iceland snow
Like the new Briggs and Stratton lawn mower engines, "never change oil, just top up" lol means they're designed to burn a bit of oil, and there's no drain plug. That's why we use oil extractors to remove oil from crankcase. The engine will last longer, and have less build up in the sump.
My 2004 Craftsman lawn tractor has a 20 HP Kohler. It has a Gulf Coast toilet paper filter that I change every few years. I changed the oil one time in 20 years. I got gasoline in the oil. The other day I decided to adjust the valves. Removed the valve cover and it looked new. Turns out it has hydraulic valve lifters. Still dont use oil.
A centrifuge in combination with filters might make a difference. There’s a guy who I think is from Russia or a former Soviet bloc country who sells plans on how to produce your own distiller to turn used oil into diesel fuel. My understanding about why engine oil turns dark is because it captures carbon compounds from combustion and it stays trapped in the suspension. The particles are smaller than the oil molecules themselves. So if the filter is fine enough for large particles but not too fine to allow oil to flow through. The smaller particles will still get through the filter. Centrifuge will remove heavy particles but still won’t removed the suspended particles within the oil.
One thing to keep in mind is the carbon particles maybe be smaller than the filter can filter. So the oil may be clean but its still black because the carbon has blackened the oil and cant screen it off. Not to mention this is a bad way to clean oil since the additives break down and all thats left is base oil. You need anti foaming agents detergents and dispersants viscosity improvers polymers etc. so you’re just left with base oil and that wont protect the engine components. Cool experiment .
Because high prices of fuel in my country i am forced to drive my car on waste motor oil mix with diesel. 50/50 winter mix and 70/30 summer mix. You can do 70/30 mix all the time but cold start during winter is harder.
I left some oil in the drain pan for a good few weeks once, when I looked at it again, the contaminants had sunk to the bottom and the oil on the top had gone back to golden brown.
Yes. Very long time ago. Kenworth? Sold a machine that cleaned and filtered Semi truck oil. So it could be added to regular Diesel fuel in the US. Did not last long. Our Gov does not like it when you dont pay taxes on your fuel. And it was outlawed
the longer hydrocarbon chains break and oxidize due to the heat alone, the friction further breaks the molecules and mixes them into a more viscous state -like whipping egg whites into a meringue. They can't get the brown out because the oil has become that color, regardless of gunk coming off the engine and being screened out.
To get a black colored engine oil clear again, it s simple .. It just takes a long time . Pour it in a recipient and let it set for a few years . The carbon particules that makes the color are heavier and will set at the bottom. The oil will look as good as new (but is still used ). Most of it s properties are deteriorated
It matters not the number of oil filters, the micron size of the filter media is more important. On heavy on highway trucks, some have what they call bypass filters. It takes a small amount of oil and spins it in a cartridge type filter like a centrifuge. They are a really fine micron filter media to trap everything. I say this only from my own experiences. If they had a really fine media as a factory filter, there wouldn't be enough flow, you know like they say "full flow oil filter".
You could probably clean old oil using a centrifuge. Do it multiple times and eventually it could becomes cleaner. Hope to see this tested in a future vid! :-)
You’d have to run that oil through a much finer micron filter system…..then maybe include some additives to revive the oil. I worked at a shop where we did this with anitfreeze…..filtered the fluid through a series of high micron filters in series …then added a pint of coolant concentrate to revive the freeze protection and acid levels….
If you want to see clear oil, you need to use a bypass filter that filters down to 2 microns. Filters that filter at 30 microns will not clear up the colour of the oil. They will only remove large particulate matter.
True. The Australian Jackmaster Classic claims 1 micron if you use their filter elements. Motor Guard has always claimed submicronic filtration. A lot of variables. Rate of flow pressure . The full flow filters are to remove the engine damaging abrasives only. Removing the small stuff requires an oil change or a depth bypass filter.
In Italy they use a centrifuge. Carbon particles can be infinitely small so will easily pass through a filter thus color will not change. Check out the Italian centrifuge.
Normal oil filters are not designed to restrict the oil flow a much, so the filtering efficiency isn't 100%... To filter better, most of the contaminants should be filtered first, then the oil should be filtered through large paper filter and finally stored in a large container for few weeks so the layers are separated. This is essentially what was done in a company I worked for few years ago...
The oil will be clear if you add enough new oil. My oil is always clear because I run it thru a roll of toilet paper at a slow rate. 60 years of analytically clean oil. Frantz Motor Guard and Gulf Coast bypass filters. The only time oil is supposed to be black is in a diesel engine I dont drain oil. Also oil can be black and be analytically clean.
how to clean the oil: a centrifuge! if i have to think of a garage 54 way to do it off the top of my head, put a special container on a differential, rev the engine in 5th gear for a while, the particles should separate into different layers by mass
Take old oil, heat it up to working temperatur and use a oil centrifuge. The soot and the dirt will be removed. Many diesel engines have the se centrifuge cleaners, and work much bretter than a filter does.
Standard oil filters have plenty of capacity to hold dirt. They only filter down to a certain level being a full flow filter and won’t really make the oil any brighter or change the color of the oil because they don’t filter down in the micron range to make that difference. You have to go with an Amsoil bypass oil filter which filters down to 2 microns with more than 98% efficiency. These filter only draw 10% of the oil pump capacity because they are very fine and restrictive oil filters. Search for Amsoil bypass oil filter on UA-cam.
Hey Garage 54... what about if you did an experiment where you got a car and drove it around for years and never changed the oil, you just cleaned it?!?!? WOW What an experiment!
Great thought here but over time the oils properties will break down and will thin out like water and the oil pressure will diminish causing damage to the bearings, this can't be reversed using filters and you must change the oil. I really like watching your show and keep up the great work and testing here. THANKS
Oil will last as long as you can keep it clean. I gave up allowing the oil to get dirty then draining it in 1963. In the 60s we changed the Frantzs and Motor Guards about every 2.000 miles and added a quart of new oil. Preferably single weight because multi grade didnt hold up for extended use. Couldnt use multi grade in a diesel. The Walmart synthetic is beautiful with my Australian Jackmaster Classic My Motor Guards My Gulf Coasts and the flat head Ford V8 canister on the Diesel tractor. I expect the oil to get black in a diesel and be amber in the gasoline engines.
I really expected 50 filters in series
Otherwise what would be the point 😅
Now I want to see 50 in series
@@MrBistrochef same
me too... i was already think of the measurements of the center thread
There wouldn't be anywhere near enough oil in the engine to fill 10, let alone 50.
One thing to keep in mind is that the oil itself darkens as it gets heated. Something to do with the smaller molecule chains gassing off. You can test this by heating new oil up to 150C+. It will darken pretty quickly. The upper piston rings get this hot and so does the oil in that area.
Wow! That's amazing! I've never seen such an educated response on UA-cam
@@WvlfDarkfire you have Bern subscribed to the wrong channels in general then
@@kitecattestecke2303 I agree. I have bern
So one time i changed my oil and drove about 10 miles. Oil was jet black right after...
@@Fr3sh-Kush That usually means that someone missed the oil change interval too much. Oil sludges towards the end of its life leaving buildup in the head, pan, and channels. Change your oil more frequently to help with that. (3-4k miles.)
Oil filters aren't meant to catch fine particulates, their purpose is to catch larger objects that might cause damage to a motor. If they were fine enough to catch everything, they would clog up after a few hours of driving if not sooner.
Sort of like the effectiveness of surgical masks and a certain virus... ;-)
Even if it filtered super fine particles , still the oil would be wasted.
Look for TBN , oil evaporation etc...
@@jdoedoenet :P
@@jdoedoenet 😕
Full flow filters aren't, but many Heavy Duty diesels now use something like a 2 micron absolute bypass filters in addition to the full flow filters to remove soot from the suspension, the full flow protects against big stuff, and running a couple gallons per hour through the bypass cleans the soot out as to not overload the dispersant package for the long change intervals of like 30,000-60,000miles(50-100kkm) or 750-1600hrs spec'd on many class 8 vehicles now.
When you take your car for regular oil change but mechanic tells you to wait outside and started saying "Hey there fellas"
That's why I change it myself
Oil change bill $$$.
I’m so disappointed. I figured y’all would have rigged up a contraption to have all 50 of those in line, pumping back into the engine 😂
Sammeee🤣🤣🤣
me too. I was thinking a long pile with T joints.
Same here too disappointed
Omg yes!!
💔
I had a corolla that I just dumped some good high mileage synthetic oil into, and since it burned about a quart every 3,000 miles, I just replaced the filter and topped it off for the longest time, and it did well.
It was changing its own oil
@@Bobby-cm7vu just a little hungry just feed the little guy lol 🤣
Ah, the good Old 4e-fe engines.
if it burn quart every 3k miles then just use thicker oil and your oil will be cleaner and will not burn in the cylinder
100% synthetic oil tend to burn, even on new engines but in engines with a lot of miles you don't have to change it 😅 Just top it up 🤣
*everyone who watches Project Farm*
"Man you can put brand new oil in a coffee carafe, heat it on a hot plate, and it will turn black!"
Winner, winner!
So true
Absolutely lol 😆🤣
People who watch Project Farm would believe anything. That channel is like flypaper for the gullible.
Scientific experiments you can redo in your own garage...... are for the gullible.
Stupid makes itself known, I tell you what.
i hoped to see a ladzilla like pipe contraption with 50 filters on top of the motor...
jeeeah 😁
Same
I had a 78 K10 with a 454 and 4 speed. We used it on the farm for years. After it started burning a quart of oil every tank of gas, we switched to 90W gear oil. Poured in two quarts of oil stop leak and called it a day. It ran for at least ten years after that. It was a great truck and would pull like a dozer. Unfortunately a tornado collapsed the barn it was in. It was beyond repair and the insurance company hauled it away.
I was hoping to see some elaborate 50-filter contraption.
Some people in the Philippines use old used motor oil to coat and preserve wood. It actually looks pretty good, although the smell probably isn't so good.
My grandfather always did that, but it's not that great. It "boils" in the sun and burns the wood.
In fact, it causes the wood to dry out and crack.
.... but there was no smell.
It isn't fire proof. I would not use oil over something more than a fence.
Dont they use oil for railroad ties? They do give off a smell when it hits the sun
Thin it with paint thinner. SixtyFiveFord the UA-cam guy showed how this is done. He stained his home made pallet shed with used motor oil.
You might be removing any crud that's gotten into the oil, but I doubt you're effectively renewing the oil itself. The heat from the engine breaks down the hydrocarbons in the oil into substituents over time, and this can't really be remedied. You can't just put those molecules back together without some serious chemistry. Even if the oil is now clean of foreign debris, the lubricating performance will be seriously degraded.
There is no replacement for an actual oil change. Your engine will thank you if you do things properly. This is certainly interesting, though. I bet this would get you a few thousand extra kilometers out of your oil if you for some reason have a crap load of filters just lying around. I'm sure you could devise a more cost effective filtration system, though.
Either way, it probably makes more sense to just send your used oil to a recycler who actually has the equipment to remove the "worn out" substituents and fraction off the remaining good oil for further use. You could technically do this yourself, though, which could be a cool project for you guys.
The last part are what cheap manufacturers do in third world countries.
The cracked long molecule providing lubrication does not get long again... So old oil is poop
Old oil to diesel.. Or just oul burner..
Oil lasts a lot of miles before it starts breaking down. It gets contaminated relatively fast though. On thermoking reefer units the diesel engine runs the equivalent of 100,000 miles between oil changes. I've seen some where they got forgotten about and ran for well over 4000 hours (equivalent to 200k miles)
you dont know that
Some fifty years ago my dad put a "toilet Paper Filter" on the car and it removed all the coloration of the oil. It used a roll of toilet paper as the filter. The problem with them was that they filtered out some of the additives that had been added to the oil such as anti-foaming agents.
Purchased a 59 Ford pickup in 71 someone had install a toilet paper filter on it. It seemed to work okay but we removed it after a few months noticed the toilet paper breaking down as it's meant to do last thing you want is paper clogging the oil pump pickup screen. I believe they were sold to JC Whitney LOL
@@Ozarkprepper643they still sell those filters. If the paper is breaking down, youre using the wrong paper and/or leaving it too long between changes. Its supposed to be the almost shiny tightly wound stuff traditionally bought by sadists for use in public dunnies in restaurants and petrol stations to stop cheapskates stealing it.
Another bull shit story that comes with toilet paper filters. Everything I have had since 1963 with an oil pump ive put a toilet paper filter on. If toilet paper broke down in motor oil I would know about it. When I pull out a roll of toilet paper I expect it to be strong and tear at each sheet. Started with a Frantz oil cleaner in 1963. Went with the top loaders in the 80s. The Pontiac has a Australian Jackmaster Classic. As far as I know they are the best in production. They are all good.
I believe JC Whitney sold a spin on filter that replaced the full flow filter. They had a relief valve that was always open when the engine was running. Converted the full flow system to a bypass filter system. A Frantz dealer had Frantz 3 stackers all over the Gulf of Mexico on heavy duty marine engines. When the Frantz 3 stackers went out of production they were replaced with
Filters that use Bounty big roll paper towels.Thats the Gulf Coast filter of Gulfport Mississippi. I have read aircraft oil analysis reports. Saw the FAA approved AeroFrantzs on crop dusters north of Sedan Kansas about 1980. No the filters dont remove additives unless its a solid like graphite.
The discoloration of the oil is in relation to the porousness if the filter medium. The best way that I can think of to clean the oil is a centrifugal filter system when the oil is spun at a high rate of speed that causes the "weight" of the "dirt/discoloration" to become extremely heavy whilst suspended in the oil due to the centrifugal force being exerted on the "weight" of the "dirt" ,in turn it will stick to the wall of the housing of the filter. This method was used on diesel trucks in conjunction with the standard oil filters back in the day when I used to work as a trade hand at a truck depot before I did my apprentice 35 years ago to become a plumber/drainlayer.
My 65 Honda 305 motorcycle had a internal chain drive centrifuge. A lot of Soviet equipment used them. Also Mack trucks.
4:30, when a Eastern European guy grunts after tightening anything, it’s def not goin anywhere
Isn't Novosibirsk pretty much central asia? :D
Just say russian 😂
@@Re_Kitty was going to but had relatives from general area that do same Thing lmao
I myself use exactly the same method ,little grunts for ~30nm bigger grunts for ~50nm and up.
My father had a shop where he worked on big diesels, all the used oil went into a big heating oil tank with a block heater in it. He would pump it through some big filters and then into a sink with a return line to the tank. Hot oil is good for cleaning parts and even gets great off your hands pretty good. He also had a filter press that would crush all the oil out of the used filters.
Garage54 needs a Lada powered centrifuge geared towards the speed of sound to physically seperate deposits out of oil.
I used to work in an electrical workshop where we had a filter press to recycle transformer oil.
It used a long stack of filter discs through which hot oil was plumbed through many times.
thanks for taking all that time to this . it was very interesting as always . great video guys
You should try the diesel/kerosene engine flush to see how well it removes engine deposits and varnish
it works that's an old trick. 4 quarts of new oil and a quart of diesel or kerosene diesels cheaper. if it's an old engine you'll get some crap to break loose and come out. I've done it on tractors.
Trans oil . Drain qt. Oil. And run for while. And change oil
If you break that stuff up cant it clog oil passages and make things worse?
or flush your engine with transmission fluid it is a detergent oil.
@@viperstrike3827 if your enginge has sludge yes but trans fluid will dissipate that sludge or diesel fuel and kerosene
You can't do this. These filters are all the same micron so it's just cleaning deposits to to that micron level
Yea we need a row of filters decreasing in micron size. Pump 50ltrs of waste oil through and see what we get.
@@Paulman50 Bly-Diesel
Even then the oil has been repeatedly cooked so the color will never go back.
Wouldn't matter. The Color isn't from particulate suspended in the oil, the color is from being heated and cooked, oil in a pan will brown as it is subjected to heat. Engine oil is no different.
@@denniswoycheshen the black is carbon and other waste products. If we filter them out we get back to clear. Agree ?
Since 1963 my oil has always been clear on the dipstick. I started in 1963 with a Frantz oil cleaner and Standard Delo 30W. My Pontiac Torrent has a Australian Jackmaster Classic and Walmart synthetic oil. The Wix XP is to protect the engine from anything in the flow of oil to the engine large enough to damage the engine. There are no full flow filters that turn the oil clear. That requires a depth bypass filter. The depth filters than replace the full flow filters such as a Trasco or Stilco have a large bypass valve that stays open as long as the engine is running. Now you have a bypass filter system.
Many years ago I saw a story of a custom aftermarket oil filter system installed alongside the normal filter. The filter it used was an actual toilet paper roll and the fineness of toilet paper filtered out all the fine carbon and kept the oil very clean.
Every engine I have with a oil pump has a toilet paper filter including the lawn mowers. Started with a Frantz oil cleaner on my Rambler American in 1963. My Pontiac Torrent has a Australian Jackmaster Classic. The other engines use Gulf Coasts. Motor Guards and a flat head Ford V8 canister filter set up to use Scott 1000. It has half a roll of Viva towels in it now. They dont like to be called toilet paper filters. Too many bull shit stories and stupid jokes with toilet paper. Jackmaster Classic comes with a high quality roll of toilet paper in a sock. They charge about 20 bucks for them. I use Great Value 1000 from Walmart in mine. To remove the used roll I use long nosed pliers. The Jackmaster Classic element has a pull ring.
That is why I use a really high-end oil filter (like one by CAT), along with an oil catch can, an oil cooler, and also a magnet to help catch any metallic particulates.
One thing I would suggest trying is getting a chemistry setup so that you can try distilling motor oil to purify it.
Would that not separate any useful additives like detergents for example?
A lot of big paper towel filters are going to the government now. Mostly the Military. I got into a debate with a NASA diesel equipment engineer on a trawler forum years ago. Now they use them. They were moving the shuttle then. Thats the Gulf Coast filter company out of Gulfport Mississippi. I told Charlie Sims of Gulf Coast filters to send someone down to Canaveral that understands big engines. They didnt need to talk about my Ford diesel truck.
If the filter was able to filter out the dark colour then filters would be blocked much faster.
At first I thought this was bait... but actually you're right, it would be filtering the broken polymer chains, so no oil would flow at all
@@Petrolhead99999 It certainly wasn't intended as a bait! My point was more that if the oil is black, then it won't be able to filter it out, as it's already gone through the filter 1000's of times and wasn't filtered.
Yeah, the black is mostly carbon particles which are very small, you could use a partical filter but that would restrict oil flow unless the area of the filter was great enough.
@@chrismechanic2000 carbonisation is a stain yh. Can't filter out stains
I've done oil changes to diesel engines that had 1 huge oil filter on it, so it's got lots of filter media surface, but the oil was still black, when it came in for service.
I don't see how 50 clean oil filters will make black oil clean, besides even if it worked, the oil will be thinned out and won't be able to properly protect the moving parts in the motor.
Also keep in mind, each time you remove the oil filter, you will lose some oil, so using 50 oil filters on 1 motor, with same black oil, the oil level will drop gradually, since the oil filter holds limited amounts of oil in it, with oil levels lowering, to keep the level full, it would require to be topped up.
The price of 50 oil filters is way more costly compared to doing a oil change with 1 new oil filter, and new motor oil, 2 jugs of motor oil, and you will still have enough motor oil for top ups.
I cleaned used oil using a metal powdered milk can and 2 rolls of toilet paper.
I pulled the centers out of the rolls and pushed them down into the tin. I had previously drilled holes about 2 cm high from the bottom in the tin. I just poured the oil down the center of the rolls and caught the much cleaner oil in a bucket that the tin was sitting over.😁
As the engine runs it leaves more deposits for the oil to take and lift into suspension, that's one of the main functions of engine oil. Clear used oil after filtration doesn't mean the additives are working as friction modifiers anymore.
I love your videos here in North Carolina. Another way to do the experiment is to go to the salvage yard and get 50 individual filter mounting bases. Hook them all together in a long line so that oil is being filtered over and over, through each consecutive filters. Start with about 15 or 20 liters of used oil, and pump it through the chain of filters to see if the filters will clean the color of the oil at the end.
I send samples to a chek lab and I forgot one around two weeks in my locker. The oil was yellow and on the bottom was some black stuff. I don't know if the clear part was good to be used again but it sure looks good. Next time I want to send them only clear oil and wait for the result.
The oil breaks down over time. More filter doesn't restore that lol
nice work on the video, also - filters have a bypass when they are blocked/restricted, and dirty oil is different from burnt oil
not the usual quality or ingenuity iv come to expect from this channel.
I really like the videos and attention you put into them. I'll tell you what my Grandfather used to say, he'd say oil never wears out, it just gets dirty. He'd only replace the oil filter and add the amount of oil the old filter removed. Then drive the vehicles forever.
Straight weight oil does not but multi weight does it contains long chain polymers that break down
I have a Freezer that hasnt had an oil change in over 50 years. Clean oil will last forever. The freezer wont hold it forever. My 37 Studebaker book said its not necessary to change the oil except for seasonal reasons. Change the filter when the oil looks dirty on the depth gauge.(dipstick). Seasonal reasons meant thinner oil for winter. I think they used cotton. John Frantz started putting superior 2 ply toilet paper in them in 1953.
The city of Memphis didn't experiment back in the seventies or eighties with their trucks change the oil regularly and half and just change the filter and added on the others then they tore both engines apart and no damage they both look identical
No shit seventies trucks were built to survive the nuclear apocalypse of course there wouldn't be damage
@@Alucard-gt1zf this is true
Glad to see Vlad is back at it!! I wish him happiness and health!
You can do a simple oil analysis for contaminants using some card stock (blank business card works great) Put one drop of oil in the middle of the card stock on a level surface. The oil will spread out in a circle after about an hour. All the contaminants will settle out in rings withing the circle like growth rings on a tree. These rings will settle out with heavy material in the center (metal) then other contaminants and finally the outer ring will be the soot load. This is called a blotter test. You can compare these cards at different mileage intervals to determine when to change.
I think you would have gotten much better results if you used a extremely high filtration filter like a royal purple oil filter. They are like 95% efficient at 5 microns.
Great experiment! (For anyone who is new to cars and goes out and does this, your oil begins to lose it's lubricating properties.
When he said he would use 50 filters for the engine oil, i knew that it wouldn't be possible.
Little oil remaining in the filters adds up to litres after a while.
Some good lab filtering paper or even coffee filter under a vacum can claean it somehow. I sometimes use them to clean solvent that i have for cleaning parts. Coffee filter can stop a sot from old diesel at least from mineral spirits. It's never perfect again but allows to be bit more eco friendly in workshop
I was alwaya told the oil never stops lubricating, its all the additives in oil tjat run out. You need the anti-foaming and detergents topped up again
The long chains break down into shorter ones, reducing film strength(the thing that actually keeps the metal parts from touching each other) and lubricity. This is improved with synthetic oils but all of them have a service live regardless of additives or contamination. Edit: it also gets acidic.
@@Chris_Garman Ah, that is exactly where all the wear occurs, when 2 metal parts touch without the oil film between
First you need a filter that cleans oil. I use toilet paper filters. Then you need to change the toilet paper and add enough new makeup oil to keep the additives up to specs. For my Pontiac driven mostly highway thats a toilet paper change and a new quart of Walmart synthetic oil every 6.000 miles. Make adjustments for different driving conditions. It doesnt matter which of the toilet paper filters you use. The Australian Jackmaster Classic is the best set up to use the newer toilet paper with the bigger cores and shorter paper. The Jackmaster Classic requires a firm paper such as Scott 1000. I use Great Value 1000 from Walmart.
@@rajgill7576 There are only two reasons for engine wear. Not enough oil between the parts and dirty oil between the parts.
If you want to make a good filter all you need it's a piece of pipe with a cotton rope inside of it jamed tight. Filter the oil through the cotton rope it will come out clean on the other side
Make an oil filter rig that allows you to put like 5 or 6 filters in a line and run them all at once and a circulation pump to move all the oil
the oil pump only has so much force, it might do more harm by starving the engine of oil pressure.
6 filters in parallel will clean better than 6 in series. A big filter will clean better than a small filter.
The trucks we used on the flightline, ran 24 hours a day, seven days a week. They mostly idled, but could get up to 15 mph at times. The motor pool changed oil based on mileage, not hours. That was some nasty looking oil, after a couple of weeks.
I've driven over the road for different trucking companies most would push the trucks 30,000 miles before an oil change considering they work almost every mile they run the engine still go 700,000 before a rebuild. I averaged 120,000- 130,000 miles a year.
I guess they missed the part of the script where he had to mention that this episode was sponsored by ‘Mad Fil: Shadow Legends’.
Thank you for the video of the cleaning the oil and the autopsy of the oil filter. Great work
Save those filters .... They're still good!
True they are still clean. All he did was change the oil.
I was kind of expecting you guys to put all the filters together and filter the oil all at once can’t wait for the next video I watch out the car companies might come after you
Lol replacing the oil one filter at a time
Exactly
Thats true he changed the oil. The filters did nothing. Full flow filters dont remove color. They remove only engine damaging abrasives.
Bypass filters for semis that allow a hundred thousand miles between oil changes are a not-new thing. They're the size of a roll of paper towels and are crammed full, not just a layer of paper for the oil to filter through.
Diesel oil darkens very soon after oil change due to soot capture that the oil is engineered for.
So many of garage54's ideas are silly, for show.
This was another.
Glad someone can take the time for these experiments with nonchalance.
Some of the contamination in the oil is individual atoms of carbon from the combustion process - I doubt the filter is fine enough to capture them.
if they are individual atoms, they will not have color. They have to be together in compounds/lumps/piles big enough to bounce or shift light wavelengths.
this is the nicest looking Lada I've seen on this channel so far. Not a bad looking car.
Need a filter with a lower micron rating. Then see what happens.
First coarse filter and then finer and finer.
yeah but old oil is still old oil, even if you filter it good enough that it becomes clear again.
Its not just micro particles, its also the properties old the oil that degrade over time and use, and thats way more important than the particles themselves. The main issue is that oil loses its viscosity and so it starts causing an accelerated wear on the parts. Its like trying to use water instead of oil. Water is thin and so it doesnt have enough strength to keeps the parts from rubbing against each other.
@@laharl2k this engine is gasoline so water also stays inside...
50 Filters price more$$$ than new oil :-)
And all the 'acid' stuff that comes from combusting byproduct inside the engine
When he poured the oil out of the first filter I caught a whiff of oil somehow
What product(s) would you suggest for cleaning the inside of a used car's engine, particularly the areas the oil is going through?
New filter + Fresh cheap 0W30 or 5W40 synthetic "hc" hydrocracking oil where the manufacturer openly marked it on the label with clean engine + Long distance, fast travel with hot hot hot engine = immediately oil change with hot oil and everything dispersed still in it
REPEAT the above again..
Then expensive good pao fully synthetic based oil
Always do oil changes in lower frequency to "wash" away the old dirt from owner neglect before!
Do not use oil cleaning additives as every bit of trash goes through the engine and it give immediate high wear and can kill engine
If you hate Lady use sand as oil
DIESEL / TRANS FLUID MIX.. 2 QTS
1/2 can of seafoam 300kms before oil change.
80% diesel fuel + 20% engine oil, new filter, run for 10-15mins, maybe drive around the block, but no high revs, temps or load.
Then a normal oil change.
Did this more than once, the engines´ insides went from dark, sludge covered surfaces to shiny metal again.
All except one are still doing well, and that one went with car when that started to rust faster than I could weld.
There´s just one downside, but that applies to professional products as well:
If there´s a gasket in the engine which just still seals because of accumulated residue...
Vodka.
I haven't even seen the video yet, but already know im going to like it!
I read this and was like hmmm. Ive heard of oil testing and if it was still good the farmers would pour the oil into their tractors as a way to recycle the oil until it was thoroughly done for or consumed.
how do you assume a tractor needs less good oil than a tractor... also its needs a different viscosity
@@majorva2653 it was an old tale I've heard of farmers using over the years. My source...an old farmer.
@@sweettooth7124 maybe thats the problem xD an old farmer not an engine builder sure it still works but why put unnecessary stress on the engine if it would last a lot longer with just fresh actually correct oil
When I was selling Gulf Coast filters a guy brought me a Dodge Cummins. He said put this Amsoil in and install a Gulf Coast filter. I asked what was in the truck. He said Shell Rotella 15 w40. I said yes sir. I had a new drain pan.
I know motor oil is absolutely recyclable, many auto parts stores here allow you to dump it there for recycling. I dont know how much of it they re-process back into motor oil, or how hard it is to do, but it IS possible to to make old oil like new again. Somehow. Biggest problem is removing the carbon and acid contamination, and repairing the viscosity.
When I was in high school I got a $10 a week allowance that was to buy my lunches and gas any extra was a bonus. Yeah I'm that old. My old 62 Falcon with an inline 6 drank oil. It dumped it out tailpipe and the engine breather tube. Had a motorcycle cop pull me over one day, he was pissed, spladder oil all over his uniform. Oil was expensive so instead of paying the $0.30 a quart I bought what was called Rev. Recycle oil, it was actually amber color. Best of all $0.18 a quart. And at close to 20 mph which was a lot in those days, plus $0.29 a gallon gas I actually had a little allowance left over for the Friday Night Football game.
I was a maintenance mechanic for a oil re refinery company. Conventional oil gets better every time it is refined. At one time Mercedes cars came new with re refined oil. Goodyear sold ours in quarts. Most of it goes to the major oil companies. Its as clear as water until they put additives in it. A lot of synthetic oil in it now. With used oil you arent dealing with the crap in crude oil. People wont buy it. They want the new stuff.
In 1955 I left home at 15 and worked in a DX station in the middle of nowhere. I lived there. The owner gave me some guns in case the thugs came up from Pawhuska Oklahoma and tried to rob me. He thought it would be fun to scare me one night. He scratched at the window and shined a flashlight under his chin. I slept with his 38 under the pillow. He almost met his maker. When I ran out of stuff to sell I went down to a Phillips 66 station. One day the sheriff came and asked me some questions. The next day dad came and told me if I didnt go back to school him and the station owner were going to jail. I managed to finish school and went into the Army.
all things considered.. that engine sounded really smooth!
Toyota 3s. Came in the rav4 aswell
That's japanese engines for you
Another thing to keep in mind is that oil is also a sort of soap as it is a lubricant. As it cleans the combustion soot inside the cylinder.
Connect exhaust manifold to the intake manifold and run the car
It won't run or atleast not more than a few seconds. EGR valves add exhaust gasses to the intake but only in small amounts.
Here is a idea you can do as I did it many years ago. I took a 20 liter steel drum filled it with used engine oil, the cap I drilled a hole in with a pipe welded on and another small pipe welded on for air pressure. On the cap with the pipe I welded a expanded metal pipe on with the end capped, then took toilet paper and rolled it around the expanded pipe many times and put it in drum and pressured the drum, at first the first 2 liter oil was slightly clearer but getting to 10 liter it became clear.
I won't recommend engine oil as combustion process changes the chemical properties but gearbox oil can be used over again.
Ah yes Toyota the lada of japan
Oils purpose is to lubricate and cool engine. Oil filter is roughly 20 microns. Oil has expiration time , due to number of kilometers, and the way of engine work. One japanese engineer from Mazda advised, that people should change oil after 5000km.
Now this is gonna be some interesting stuff
Like always ofcourse!
I read that (some years ago) British Rail never threw their old engine oil away, from their diesel trains and vehicles. It was all sent to a special place, and a Centrifuge was used. The cleaned and scrubbed engine oil then went back into service. If this is possible, then why isn't this used more commercially?
Hope no customers needed one of those filters for their oil change lol
😂😂
It's not just the deposits that make it turn that color it's also from the oil burning over time. That can't be filtered out.
It would just clean the dirt and debros out of the oil its still broken down and discolored from the heat.
Filters can only remove particulate matter. Doesn't replace the long chain polymers and doesn't remove the oxidation of the oil itself as well as the friction modifiers and other additives.
For any particulates smaller than the pore size of the filter, they remain suspended in the oil and can only be removed by getting rid of the oil and replacing it.
Make Oil great again ‼️‼️
This video gave the great idea to check for flakes in my oil I just changed. Don’t worry fellas I didn’t have pearlescent oil
I thought I remember hearing that ships use some type of centrifuge to filter or renew oil.
You are correct. Just search "oil centrifuge" on YT.
alot of small 4stroke engines use a centrifugal oil filter system
Lube oil purifier.
@@izwanizi ohh baby say "lube" again, PLEASE
@@aeroflopper yes my 65 Honda 305 motorcycle had a internal chain drive centrifuge. My Honda 500 Custom had a Frantz oil cleaner upside down back behind a saddle bag.
This answers my questions.... I just knew that the oil was gonna get clearer... I blame the filters, they weren't tighter in the mesh.
Notification squad!👍🏻
I had a Toyota Corolla 4wd Touring that burned about a liter a week. I just topped off the oil for 2 years. I drove that thing about 50k kms and I changed the filter twice😂 it did fine. Surprisingly the reason it died was not the engine giving up, but rather the rear wheel bearings for a 4wd corolla were not available anywhere in the world. So I scrapped it. Best damn car I ever had. Outwheeled every single subaru in the heavy Iceland snow
Like the new Briggs and Stratton lawn mower engines, "never change oil, just top up" lol means they're designed to burn a bit of oil, and there's no drain plug. That's why we use oil extractors to remove oil from crankcase. The engine will last longer, and have less build up in the sump.
My 2004 Craftsman lawn tractor has a 20 HP Kohler. It has a Gulf Coast toilet paper filter that I change every few years. I changed the oil one time in 20 years. I got gasoline in the oil. The other day I decided to adjust the valves. Removed the valve cover and it looked new. Turns out it has hydraulic valve lifters. Still dont use oil.
A centrifuge in combination with filters might make a difference. There’s a guy who I think is from Russia or a former Soviet bloc country who sells plans on how to produce your own distiller to turn used oil into diesel fuel. My understanding about why engine oil turns dark is because it captures carbon compounds from combustion and it stays trapped in the suspension. The particles are smaller than the oil molecules themselves. So if the filter is fine enough for large particles but not too fine to allow oil to flow through. The smaller particles will still get through the filter. Centrifuge will remove heavy particles but still won’t removed the suspended particles within the oil.
In the 1960’s recycled motor oil used to be common in the United States. It was basically filtered and resold.
One thing to keep in mind is the carbon particles maybe be smaller than the filter can filter. So the oil may be clean but its still black because the carbon has blackened the oil and cant screen it off. Not to mention this is a bad way to clean oil since the additives break down and all thats left is base oil. You need anti foaming agents detergents and dispersants viscosity improvers polymers etc. so you’re just left with base oil and that wont protect the engine components. Cool experiment .
Because high prices of fuel in my country i am forced to drive my car on waste motor oil mix with diesel. 50/50 winter mix and 70/30 summer mix. You can do 70/30 mix all the time but cold start during winter is harder.
I left some oil in the drain pan for a good few weeks once, when I looked at it again, the contaminants had sunk to the bottom and the oil on the top had gone back to golden brown.
Yes. Very long time ago. Kenworth? Sold a machine that cleaned and filtered Semi truck oil. So it could be added to regular Diesel fuel in the US. Did not last long. Our Gov does not like it when you dont pay taxes on your fuel. And it was outlawed
the longer hydrocarbon chains break and oxidize due to the heat alone, the friction further breaks the molecules and mixes them into a more viscous state -like whipping egg whites into a meringue. They can't get the brown out because the oil has become that color, regardless of gunk coming off the engine and being screened out.
To get a black colored engine oil clear again, it s simple ..
It just takes a long time .
Pour it in a recipient and let it set for a few years .
The carbon particules that makes the color are heavier and will set at the bottom.
The oil will look as good as new (but is still used ).
Most of it s properties are deteriorated
It matters not the number of oil filters, the micron size of the filter media is more important. On heavy on highway trucks, some have what they call bypass filters. It takes a small amount of oil and spins it in a cartridge type filter like a centrifuge. They are a really fine micron filter media to trap everything. I say this only from my own experiences. If they had a really fine media as a factory filter, there wouldn't be enough flow, you know like they say "full flow oil filter".
You could probably clean old oil using a centrifuge. Do it multiple times and eventually it could becomes cleaner. Hope to see this tested in a future vid! :-)
You’d have to run that oil through a much finer micron filter system…..then maybe include some additives to revive the oil.
I worked at a shop where we did this with anitfreeze…..filtered the fluid through a series of high micron filters in series …then added a pint of coolant concentrate to revive the freeze protection and acid levels….
If you want to see clear oil, you need to use a bypass filter that filters down to 2 microns. Filters that filter at 30 microns will not clear up the colour of the oil. They will only remove large particulate matter.
True. The Australian Jackmaster Classic claims 1 micron if you use their filter elements. Motor Guard has always claimed submicronic filtration. A lot of variables. Rate of flow pressure . The full flow filters are to remove the engine damaging abrasives only. Removing the small stuff requires an oil change or a depth bypass filter.
In Italy they use a centrifuge. Carbon particles can be infinitely small so will easily pass through a filter thus color will not change. Check out the Italian centrifuge.
Normal oil filters are not designed to restrict the oil flow a much, so the filtering efficiency isn't 100%... To filter better, most of the contaminants should be filtered first, then the oil should be filtered through large paper filter and finally stored in a large container for few weeks so the layers are separated. This is essentially what was done in a company I worked for few years ago...
The oil will be clear if you add enough new oil. My oil is always clear because I run it thru a roll of toilet paper at a slow rate. 60 years of analytically clean oil. Frantz Motor Guard and Gulf Coast bypass filters. The only time oil is supposed to be black is in a diesel engine I dont drain oil. Also oil can be black and be analytically clean.
how to clean the oil: a centrifuge! if i have to think of a garage 54 way to do it off the top of my head, put a special container on a differential, rev the engine in 5th gear for a while, the particles should separate into different layers by mass
Every time I have an idea you guys have a video for it it’s great, keep doing what you do!!
Take old oil, heat it up to working temperatur and use a oil centrifuge. The soot and the dirt will be removed. Many diesel engines have the se centrifuge cleaners, and work much bretter than a filter does.
Standard oil filters have plenty of capacity to hold dirt. They only filter down to a certain level being a full
flow filter and won’t really make the oil any brighter or change the color of the oil because they don’t filter down in the micron range to make that difference. You have to go with an Amsoil bypass oil filter which filters down to 2 microns with more than 98% efficiency. These filter only draw 10% of the oil pump capacity because they are very fine and restrictive oil filters.
Search for Amsoil bypass oil filter on UA-cam.
A large funnel lined with chamois and it's spotless
Hey Garage 54... what about if you did an experiment where you got a car and drove it around for years and never changed the oil, you just cleaned it?!?!? WOW What an experiment!
Great thought here but over time the oils properties will break down and will thin out like water and the oil pressure will diminish causing damage to the bearings, this can't be reversed using filters and you must change the oil. I really like watching your show and keep up the great work and testing here. THANKS
Oil will last as long as you can keep it clean. I gave up allowing the oil to get dirty then draining it in 1963. In the 60s we changed the Frantzs and Motor Guards about every 2.000 miles and added a quart of new oil. Preferably single weight because multi grade didnt hold up for extended use. Couldnt use multi grade in a diesel. The Walmart synthetic is beautiful with my Australian Jackmaster Classic My Motor Guards My Gulf Coasts and the flat head Ford V8 canister on the Diesel tractor. I expect the oil to get black in a diesel and be amber in the gasoline engines.
You guys are awesome! I'm not surprised at these test results though.