Thanks Adam - I bought 2 and fitted one to my shed hooked up to a REC 280watt panel and another to my Autostratus camper - they both work great keeping both our e-bikes charged - I nearly bought them gold ones with the "bling" screen but that fan noise and that you have to program in the Max power tracking tells me its not true MPPT - on a sunny day I get 5+ amp charge into a 10S 36v battery - its odd ours cuts off at 40.6 on sunny days and 41.3 on cloudy - I recon more current on sunny days means more headroom voltage hence it drops back more off charge - both ours don't seem to trickle charge much they power up to the 42 then cut off clean - once again thanks for recommending
Thanks, Adam. I purchased one of these MPPT controllers since your last video The electric bike my wife has is 36V li-ion (I thought it was SLA, the previous one was). Now I'll give it a go with a 40W panel.
Got one coming in the mail since after last video thanks now I'll be able to trickle charge my ebike on our many long 2 week camp trips. So cool thanks
Richard, im wonder what your eventual Ebike battery volts and you Mppt setup worked out to and what wattage solar did you find that worked well. I’m just getting started with this Mppt and my 52v lithium. My Mppt is powerpoled at h Bi oth ends and comes in P=17-19 on my 100w flexible panel(Sunpower) B=58. And C=0. I have yet to drawn down the battery far enough to attempt a charge. Just curious how much minimum wattage from your panels you needed and when the battery reached its max or your fixed setting, did the Cc:cv work for you. Thanks
Thanks for the update Adam. I've purchased one of these and plan to use it to charge a 20S Lithium pack off of a 72cell 310 solar panel using one of these. Your videos have given me the info I needed to make the decision to give it a go.
+Jim Mcpherson, I have a 310W panel and would like to charge an 18s battery that I have. Did this product ever exceed even 60% of your panel output? I purchased the green MPT7210A and can't seem to get more than 100W out of my setup, would love to know if this is an alternative option... thanks (perhaps it's too far a range for it too boost at full power as the input current (which should always be higher) never exceeds 2.5 amps) [35Vin to 72Vout with 310W panel MPT7210A yields
Thanks Adam, I quite like this little charge controller, not only is it cheap but I was thinking of having a small solar setup roughly 30M or so away from the house, so boosting the voltage up to 24v could be useful for me and save a little bit of power over that distance if I do it.
vgamesx1. Not the best idea buddy... the losses in pushing DC 30m will b huge.! U should use an inverter of some kind @ the panels (even a home made H-bridge driven by a square wave) n convert back 2 DC (with a bridge rectifier) by ur batteries. Good luck.
Max Max Every conversion introduces losses, but a sweet spot can be found. Depends on the wire thickness too. Boosting to high voltage dc better than ac because of less inductive and capacitive losses. HVDC can carry gigawatts of energy and still lose only 3% per 1,000 km! 500 kV over 30m in a garden probably overkill though :) Suggest trying to boost to 72V and bucking down to desired voltage and still remain safe.
Well to be clear, I'm totally over estimating the distance, the cable is from a long extension cord someone was throwing away and the plugs were in rough shape so I cut those off and now I have three cables around 100ft long, of 14AWG or 16AWG cable (not sure but it's a decent thickness) and the actual distance to where I'm planning on running it isn't really that far, a little over about 12ft/4m but it'll have to loop around a few things then run under the house into the room I want it in, so I don't know for sure how long the run would be until I get to it.
vgamesx1. It might be worth testing it 1st. Lay the wire in place, join the wires u plan 2 use at 1 end, measure the resistance @ the other. Then calculate the expected losses @ different Amps (I squared x r). Thinking about it now, anything that gets the amps down is a good idea...
I got the green one 7210A and this one, but I have to say I like the green one better as the display is better. This one gets warm too, but might be slightly more efficient (need to check again) and can go to 72V.
Hi Adam and thanks for the details. You talked about termination voltage but what about the re-engage. Thinking about using it for little power wall. Will the charger engage again if pack voltage drops below some threshold?
Let me see if I can test that for you. Given it's designed application I guess it might kick back in once it drops only a little bit - normally you'd disconnect your ebike once it was charged and go for a ride I guess and connect it back up once it was depleted.
Thanks for the great video Adam. Gelisob: I've made a little power wall here with a solar panel on the balcony and my 48V 17Ah ebike battery. This controller behaves well most of the time, I've set up the "battery full" setting at 53V to stay below 90% Soc (around 85). (rather than going all the way to 54.6V like a standard GENASUN would) What's strange is that most of the times, it stops charging at 51.8V...But that might be because whilst charging the voltage is higher and once it cuts , the voltage drops by 0.5 or 1V. Anyhow, i think it's a great controller to extend your battery life on the very long term. once the voltage drops by 1v, the charging starts again. Again, not SUPER precise on that point, but totally ok for a Hefty 800 Wh battery.
Hi can you make a video comparing all charge controllers that you have? I am planing to make a 400w 12 or maybe more volts solar system and don't know which controller is the best for this size. What size of batteries do you recommend? I was thinking about 12v 230ah solar battery. A video where you compare different inverters would also be usefull.
The batterie does not need to be big because there will be 800w load attached to it and will draw power from batterie every day for around 4 to 5 hours but not constantly. So the batterie will be fully discharged every day but not neceserally fully charged
@@compmojster what's the point unless it's to kill a battery? So let's do the math. 800w X 5 hours = 4000w. You want a 12v 230ah battery. Thats 2750watts. So that's not going to work is it? If you use LA' you need double the ah to make the Watts. So you need 8000x12.=667ah @ 12v. Then you want a 400w array to charge the battery 400w X 4 hours = 1600w a day. That would take 2.5 days to charge on average. Or around 100 days in winter to charge.
The charging profile isn't perfect for lead acid but to be honest it should work pretty well. Lead acid chargers do bulk, absorb and float modes where as a lithium charging profile is essentially constant current (pretty much bulk) and then constant voltage (pretty much absorb). It's a bad idea to float lithium cells for a long time which is one of the main things I was testing here. Because there is no float mode it is likley that your lead acid batteries will fall back a bit when the charge terminates. This will probably kick the charger back in to CV mode (or absorb) and top them up again. So yes, it will probably work pretty well. It's generally better to use a lithium charger on lead acid and not the other way round.
@Adam Welch - I have 2x 24s 40ah battery packs out of an electric car. Do you know if the termination voltage on this controller can be set up to ~96v? You said the output capacitors were 100v rated so I'm hopeful :)
Thanks, Adam. It's a shame that it doesn't have any calibration adjustments for voltage and current. And that high termination voltage needs double-checking for any measurement errors in your meter. If it is truly high, can a (sufficiently high current rated) series-connected Schottky diode be inserted, to reduce the final battery voltage by a couple of hundred mV?
Hi Adam! Thanks for that video. I see this controller is for 24V batteries and up, do you know if there is a newer cheap MPPT controller for 12V batteries out there? Or is the CPY-2410 still the one to get? Thanks mate!
I’d probably avoid that one as the internal shave changed since my first review and it’s not as good as it used to be. The CPT-LA10 is (as far as I’m aware) a good unit. Th one in the video is a boosting charge controller so as you say it’s 24v or above.
Adam, your videos are fantastic. I am trying to decide between this controller and the mpt 7210a. Do you have any preference? I am going to be using it in a 7s solar vehicle setup where when driving i switch via selenoid to the alternator power for charging, i figure this one unit will work quite nice for this dual duty. Do you see any issues with my plan? and again, which controller would you suggest? Thanks
hi, i bought these for my 72v battery pack. they work great when solar pannels are connected but makes short circuit when solar pannels are disconnected. I fear that at night when there is no sun, the charger would create short circuit??? have you tested it at night? does it completely turn off or sleep at night?
I recently got this included in my van setup which was designed to use solar and alternator when driving. Solar was working but when I switch to alternator power, it was charging great for a minute and then a pop. When it came back on the c and b were wildly incorrect. no charging happening. I took the unit apart and smell...that smell. Something fried, I guess my fused alternator source was incorrect at 10amps and it blew something. Any idea? Thanks!
Great review as usual Adam. I bought one of these to use to charge my 48v e-trike battery. I have a flexible 300w solar panel (as a sun shade) as charging source. The panel specs are: Solar panel: Pmax: 300watt * Ipmax:7.1 amps * VPmax: 42V * Isc: 7.8A * Voc: 50V Will the panel amps overpower this charge controller? Thanks
I run mine on a 280watt Rec panel and it barly gets warm charging 36v battery so I think your fine - its rated for 300 watts continuous - running at higher voltage your 48v battery should reduce amps and run even cooler
Adam, as in you previous video the link to the CTK EV300 results in a search for money coins. This also had being reported in the messages in your previous video. Please correct the link.
How odd - can I ask you a favour? Firstly what does this one do? goo.gl/BuwvA7 and secondly, this is the link which is shortened in the description - what does this one do for you? rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=10&pub=5575189419&toolid=10001&campid=5337903455&customid=24V-72V+MPPT+Boost+Solar+Panel+Battery+Regulator&icep_uq=24V-72V+MPPT+Boost+Solar+Panel+Battery+Regulator&icep_sellerId=&icep_ex_kw=&icep_sortBy=12&icep_catId=&icep_minPrice=&icep_maxPrice=&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg Thanks in advance
That link ending in XnELSy works fine for me, Adam. The other shortened link goes to your web page (Thanks; I'd not seen it!) and the full address goes to the ebay listing again. I hope that this helps?
Looks like my 12v solar panel would boost to my 37v lithium pack with this controller. Do you recommend this over the ming-he MMPT controller, since it really does MMPT vs the ming-he?
+Tong Wong I've been told the solar voltage you input on the minghe is a starting point rather than the voltage it try's to hold the panel like I said in this video. So I guess it depends if you want simple and more efficient or snazzy but a little more wasteful. I haven't put my hands on the minghe, so it would be a little unfair for me to say absolutely for definite one over the other.
Heads Up. Do Not Buy this product : www.ebay.com/itm/401763979763… 9:02P 05 17 19 Via E-Bay Msg System This Controller is listed and stated to be a MPPT Solar Control unit. It is NOT a MPPT Solar Charge Control. This is a PWM type Solar Charge Control unit. NOT what I ordered. E-Bay review Pending Your Actions. Thank You for your attention with this Issue, Waiting Reply. Confirmation via Testing. Using a Constant Current Constant Voltage PSU set for a output of 17.0VDC @ 2.0A. simulating a Solar Panels Output. After connecting said controller to a partially depleted 12.0V battery controller recognized the battery as 12.0V and reported correct battery voltage. Injected PSU voltage into the controller via CC/CV PSU. Again the controller reported the correct voltage and Amperage as the PV voltages. Controller provided a steady output of 12.6VDC towards the battery as expected. Measured Current seen as 1.90A. A Current Loss I expect was consumed by the controller it's self. A true MPPT controller would have been outputting a current GAIN above the supplied 2.0A ... This Controller does not have the required MPPT circuit to perform the MPPT functions.
@@pulesjet Ok, my english, for me a foreign language, is not very good, school was many years ago ... so I am not sure understanding you correctly. We are talking about the CTK 300, right? It is made for battery voltage 24V ... 72V, means step up. So why do you test it with only 12V battery voltage? This can not work. 🤔 I know, most other mppt controllers need higher PV voltage for (lower) battery voltage, but not this one.
@@pulesjet Ok, then please tell us in easy words (because of my poor english), WHAT you have exactly testet and how. I have the CTK300 here and it has the same behaviour like my other mppt controller (victron 75/15) after connecting the pv-panel. I also testet it with a powersupply on the pv-input, the CTK300 is tracking here for the first minute and during this time the current gets bigger, step by step. Battery is 24V. If it was a pwm, the (high) current would come immediately.
Thanks for the update! Nice job getting it back together. :D
You make the best videos I know, and as Austrian I easily can understand your english. Thankyou very much!
Thanks Adam - I bought 2 and fitted one to my shed hooked up to a REC 280watt panel and another to my Autostratus camper - they both work great keeping both our e-bikes charged - I nearly bought them gold ones with the "bling" screen but that fan noise and that you have to program in the Max power tracking tells me its not true MPPT - on a sunny day I get 5+ amp charge into a 10S 36v battery - its odd ours cuts off at 40.6 on sunny days and 41.3 on cloudy - I recon more current on sunny days means more headroom voltage hence it drops back more off charge - both ours don't seem to trickle charge much they power up to the 42 then cut off clean - once again thanks for recommending
Thanks, Adam. I purchased one of these MPPT controllers since your last video The electric bike my wife has is 36V li-ion (I thought it was SLA, the previous one was). Now I'll give it a go with a 40W panel.
Cool - glad to be of assistance. I'm pretty pleased with it.
looks like they could designed it to be assembled easier. thanks for taking it to bits.
Got one coming in the mail since after last video thanks now I'll be able to trickle charge my ebike on our many long 2 week camp trips. So cool thanks
You're welcome. I hope it gives you many happy miles!
Richard, im wonder what your eventual Ebike battery volts and you Mppt setup worked out to and what wattage solar did you find that worked well. I’m just getting started with this Mppt and my 52v lithium. My Mppt is powerpoled at h Bi oth ends and comes in P=17-19 on my 100w flexible panel(Sunpower) B=58. And C=0. I have yet to drawn down the battery far enough to attempt a charge. Just curious how much minimum wattage from your panels you needed and when the battery reached its max or your fixed setting, did the Cc:cv work for you. Thanks
Thanks for the update Adam. I've purchased one of these and plan to use it to charge a 20S Lithium pack off of a 72cell 310 solar panel using one of these. Your videos have given me the info I needed to make the decision to give it a go.
+Jim McPherson I hope it works well for you Jim. 👍
+Jim Mcpherson, I have a 310W panel and would like to charge an 18s battery that I have. Did this product ever exceed even 60% of your panel output? I purchased the green MPT7210A and can't seem to get more than 100W out of my setup, would love to know if this is an alternative option... thanks
(perhaps it's too far a range for it too boost at full power as the input current (which should always be higher) never exceeds 2.5 amps)
[35Vin to 72Vout with 310W panel MPT7210A yields
You are my solar guru :)
And you are my commenting master! :-)
nah :D
Thanks Adam, I quite like this little charge controller, not only is it cheap but I was thinking of having a small solar setup roughly 30M or so away from the house, so boosting the voltage up to 24v could be useful for me and save a little bit of power over that distance if I do it.
vgamesx1. Not the best idea buddy... the losses in pushing DC 30m will b huge.!
U should use an inverter of some kind @ the panels (even a home made H-bridge driven by a square wave)
n convert back 2 DC (with a bridge rectifier) by ur batteries.
Good luck.
Max Max Every conversion introduces losses, but a sweet spot can be found.
Depends on the wire thickness too. Boosting to high voltage dc better than ac because of less inductive and capacitive losses.
HVDC can carry gigawatts of energy and still lose only 3% per 1,000 km!
500 kV over 30m in a garden probably overkill though :)
Suggest trying to boost to 72V and bucking down to desired voltage and still remain safe.
Well to be clear, I'm totally over estimating the distance, the cable is from a long extension cord someone was throwing away and the plugs were in rough shape so I cut those off and now I have three cables around 100ft long, of 14AWG or 16AWG cable (not sure but it's a decent thickness) and the actual distance to where I'm planning on running it isn't really that far, a little over about 12ft/4m but it'll have to loop around a few things then run under the house into the room I want it in, so I don't know for sure how long the run would be until I get to it.
vgamesx1 With 14awg over a few metres, I don't think you'll have a problem!
vgamesx1. It might be worth testing it 1st.
Lay the wire in place, join the wires u plan 2 use at 1 end, measure the resistance @ the other.
Then calculate the expected losses @ different Amps (I squared x r).
Thinking about it now, anything that gets the amps down is a good idea...
They take the time to scrub off all of the distinguishing marks from the components?
Dude! My own comment is the one I'm here for!
I got the green one 7210A and this one, but I have to say I like the green one better as the display is better. This one gets warm too, but might be slightly more efficient (need to check again) and can go to 72V.
I've heard the green one has a rather loud fan. Is that true? On an e-trike I'd be sitting close to it for extended times.
Great video again.
Thank you sir
I will watch both videos after thanks a bunch
nice update
Very great analysis,keep it up
Cool update.
Hi Adam and thanks for the details. You talked about termination voltage but what about the re-engage. Thinking about using it for little power wall. Will the charger engage again if pack voltage drops below some threshold?
Let me see if I can test that for you. Given it's designed application I guess it might kick back in once it drops only a little bit - normally you'd disconnect your ebike once it was charged and go for a ride I guess and connect it back up once it was depleted.
Thanks for the great video Adam. Gelisob: I've made a little power wall here with a solar panel on the balcony and my 48V 17Ah ebike battery. This controller behaves well most of the time, I've set up the "battery full" setting at 53V to stay below 90% Soc (around 85). (rather than going all the way to 54.6V like a standard GENASUN would) What's strange is that most of the times, it stops charging at 51.8V...But that might be because whilst charging the voltage is higher and once it cuts , the voltage drops by 0.5 or 1V. Anyhow, i think it's a great controller to extend your battery life on the very long term. once the voltage drops by 1v, the charging starts again. Again, not SUPER precise on that point, but totally ok for a Hefty 800 Wh battery.
Hi can you make a video comparing all charge controllers that you have? I am planing to make a 400w 12 or maybe more volts solar system and don't know which controller is the best for this size. What size of batteries do you recommend? I was thinking about 12v 230ah solar battery. A video where you compare different inverters would also be usefull.
The batterie does not need to be big because there will be 800w load attached to it and will draw power from batterie every day for around 4 to 5 hours but not constantly. So the batterie will be fully discharged every day but not neceserally fully charged
@@compmojster what's the point unless it's to kill a battery?
So let's do the math.
800w X 5 hours = 4000w.
You want a 12v 230ah battery. Thats 2750watts.
So that's not going to work is it?
If you use LA' you need double the ah to make the Watts. So you need 8000x12.=667ah @ 12v.
Then you want a 400w array to charge the battery 400w X 4 hours = 1600w a day.
That would take 2.5 days to charge on average.
Or around 100 days in winter to charge.
Brilliant review! One question... Is one able to configure this controller to shutoff should the panel drop below a specified voltage? Thanks, Adam!
Assalamualaikum bro tell me best MPPT charge controller name I live in Pakistan
My E bike uses 48v lead acid battery pack is this ok for that as well.
The charging profile isn't perfect for lead acid but to be honest it should work pretty well. Lead acid chargers do bulk, absorb and float modes where as a lithium charging profile is essentially constant current (pretty much bulk) and then constant voltage (pretty much absorb). It's a bad idea to float lithium cells for a long time which is one of the main things I was testing here.
Because there is no float mode it is likley that your lead acid batteries will fall back a bit when the charge terminates. This will probably kick the charger back in to CV mode (or absorb) and top them up again.
So yes, it will probably work pretty well. It's generally better to use a lithium charger on lead acid and not the other way round.
@Adam Welch - I have 2x 24s 40ah battery packs out of an electric car. Do you know if the termination voltage on this controller can be set up to ~96v? You said the output capacitors were 100v rated so I'm hopeful :)
Thanks for the two videos. My unit came with Chinese instructions. Could you post a link to your English instructions?
is the 96% effcient Genasun worth the extra $160 vs this mppt which is 92% efficient?
Thanks, Adam. It's a shame that it doesn't have any calibration adjustments for voltage and current. And that high termination voltage needs double-checking for any measurement errors in your meter. If it is truly high, can a (sufficiently high current rated) series-connected Schottky diode be inserted, to reduce the final battery voltage by a couple of hundred mV?
Try using the ''self''option to set a lower voltage. Ex: foar a 36V battery set it to 35V. It will cut off earlier and not overcharge. It might work
Hi. Do this charge The lithium iron phosphate battery (LiFePO
4 battery) or LFP battery (lithium ferrophosphate
Hello, what's the maximum voltage of this device? Im need 72v(88.2v) 21S Thanks a lot!)
Hi Adam! Thanks for that video. I see this controller is for 24V batteries and up, do you know if there is a newer cheap MPPT controller for 12V batteries out there? Or is the CPY-2410 still the one to get? Thanks mate!
I’d probably avoid that one as the internal shave changed since my first review and it’s not as good as it used to be. The CPT-LA10 is (as far as I’m aware) a good unit. Th one in the video is a boosting charge controller so as you say it’s 24v or above.
Adam, your videos are fantastic. I am trying to decide between this controller and the mpt 7210a. Do you have any preference? I am going to be using it in a 7s solar vehicle setup where when driving i switch via selenoid to the alternator power for charging, i figure this one unit will work quite nice for this dual duty. Do you see any issues with my plan? and again, which controller would you suggest? Thanks
I’ve not used this controller in that way but in theory it should work. I’ve believe the 7210a gets quite noisy. Thanks for the kind comments.
is that good?
hi, i bought these for my 72v battery pack. they work great when solar pannels are connected but makes short circuit when solar pannels are disconnected. I fear that at night when there is no sun, the charger would create short circuit??? have you tested it at night? does it completely turn off or sleep at night?
Thanks
thanks for a nice review, but my question is . have you /why not try using a 48v panel to charge a 24v batteri ?
+Christian Sloth Its a boost converter - it's not designed for that.
Adam Welch OK, thanks for the help
I will greet you with respect !!! is it good is this MPPT effective? Your conclusion please!
If you need to charge a battery or bank which is higher in voltage than your solar panel - this works pretty well.
I recently got this included in my van setup which was designed to use solar and alternator when driving. Solar was working but when I switch to alternator power, it was charging great for a minute and then a pop. When it came back on the c and b were wildly incorrect. no charging happening. I took the unit apart and smell...that smell. Something fried, I guess my fused alternator source was incorrect at 10amps and it blew something. Any idea? Thanks!
this is what i found...not sure if the smell is coming from it. ae01.alicdn.com/kf/Ua09b9b55890746a1a0c322357b355e5eT.jpg
Can i remove those rubber thingies on the diodes? Seems like it would prevent good heat transfer to the alu case.....?
They are probably electrically isolating, but thermally conductive. I wouldn’t.
Id like too see the lowest pv input voltage that still produces a charge too the battery
10V
Great review as usual Adam.
I bought one of these to use to charge my 48v e-trike battery. I have a flexible 300w solar panel (as a sun shade) as charging source. The panel specs are:
Solar panel:
Pmax: 300watt * Ipmax:7.1 amps * VPmax: 42V * Isc: 7.8A * Voc: 50V
Will the panel amps overpower this charge controller? Thanks
I run mine on a 280watt Rec panel and it barly gets warm charging 36v battery so I think your fine - its rated for 300 watts continuous - running at higher voltage your 48v battery should reduce amps and run even cooler
Adam, as in you previous video the link to the CTK EV300 results in a search for money coins.
This also had being reported in the messages in your previous video.
Please correct the link.
Sorry I thought I had sorted that... can you try this link and let me know if it works correctly for you? goo.gl/XnELSy
Adam Welch Still coins for me.
How odd - can I ask you a favour? Firstly what does this one do? goo.gl/BuwvA7 and secondly, this is the link which is shortened in the description - what does this one do for you? rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=10&pub=5575189419&toolid=10001&campid=5337903455&customid=24V-72V+MPPT+Boost+Solar+Panel+Battery+Regulator&icep_uq=24V-72V+MPPT+Boost+Solar+Panel+Battery+Regulator&icep_sellerId=&icep_ex_kw=&icep_sortBy=12&icep_catId=&icep_minPrice=&icep_maxPrice=&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg
Thanks in advance
That link ending in XnELSy works fine for me, Adam. The other shortened link goes to your web page (Thanks; I'd not seen it!) and the full address goes to the ebay listing again. I hope that this helps?
Geert, A bit late now, but I think your computer was infected with a link hijacker.
Can you or should you set the current on the controller ？ Thanks
No you only set voltage cutoff e.g. 66v for a 60v nominal battery
Do you know where you can get the 600 volt version?
600 watt. Aliexpress
@@IrishFuryan thanks
Looks like my 12v solar panel would boost to my 37v lithium pack with this controller. Do you recommend this over the ming-he MMPT controller, since it really does MMPT vs the ming-he?
+Tong Wong I've been told the solar voltage you input on the minghe is a starting point rather than the voltage it try's to hold the panel like I said in this video. So I guess it depends if you want simple and more efficient or snazzy but a little more wasteful.
I haven't put my hands on the minghe, so it would be a little unfair for me to say absolutely for definite one over the other.
I've watched so many videos that it may have slipped past me when you mentioned it in the video. Thanks again.
👍
Thks doesnt look like a true mppt controller. Missing voltage converter??
Does it boost upto 72 volt
Yes
@@zarbonida Thank u
im sold
Heads Up. Do Not Buy this product : www.ebay.com/itm/401763979763…
9:02P 05 17 19
Via E-Bay Msg System
This Controller is listed and stated to be a MPPT Solar Control unit.
It is NOT a MPPT Solar Charge Control.
This is a PWM type Solar Charge Control unit.
NOT what I ordered.
E-Bay review Pending Your Actions.
Thank You for your attention with this Issue, Waiting Reply.
Confirmation via Testing.
Using a Constant Current Constant Voltage PSU set for a output of
17.0VDC @ 2.0A. simulating a Solar Panels Output. After connecting
said controller to a partially depleted 12.0V battery controller
recognized the battery as 12.0V and reported correct battery voltage.
Injected PSU voltage into the controller via CC/CV PSU. Again the
controller reported the correct voltage and Amperage as the PV
voltages. Controller provided a steady output of 12.6VDC towards the
battery as expected. Measured Current seen as 1.90A. A Current
Loss I expect was consumed by the controller it's self. A true MPPT
controller would have been outputting a current GAIN above the supplied
2.0A ...
This Controller does not have the required MPPT circuit to perform the MPPT functions.
Old link. Error ... not found on ebay.
@@Thomas_P_aus_M Good stuff. It's junk. NOT MPPT. They got found out.
@@pulesjet Ok, my english, for me a foreign language, is not very good, school was many years ago ... so I am not sure understanding you correctly. We are talking about the CTK 300, right? It is made for battery voltage 24V ... 72V, means step up. So why do you test it with only 12V battery voltage? This can not work. 🤔 I know, most other mppt controllers need higher PV voltage for (lower) battery voltage, but not this one.
@@Thomas_P_aus_M Never said I did. Most 12v rated solar panels are rated. 17-21v.
@@pulesjet Ok, then please tell us in easy words (because of my poor english), WHAT you have exactly testet and how. I have the CTK300 here and it has the same behaviour like my other mppt controller (victron 75/15) after connecting the pv-panel. I also testet it with a powersupply on the pv-input, the CTK300 is tracking here for the first minute and during this time the current gets bigger, step by step. Battery is 24V. If it was a pwm, the (high) current would come immediately.