I do a lot of biking over great distance and multi day tours. I want to expand this ability, I really need to solve the problem of charging a spare bosch power tube 500watt battery for my mountain bike. I just happen to already own the Burley CoHo trailer when I stumbled upon Chris video. I wanted to build this solar trailer and all I had to work with is this video. If you want to build this trailer then use this video along with my notes here and it will work for you. Around 05/2023 , I finished building Chris trailer, It turned out really good. I used the maker pipe T-clamps, total of 3 are needed. For the framing I used 1/2" PVC sch40 in place of metal pipe, it's lighter. I used PVC 1" sch40 that threads through Chris 3d parts and acts like a bearing for the the panel frame to rotate. The leg that mounts to the fender of the trailer, I moved it to the end of the fender instead of the middle where Chris put it, that way I have the entire fender to carry my chair. I am using the same solar panel as listed in Chris parts. After much testing, I think I would go to a 175w panel, it's only 10 inch longer. Chris provides free files for download. You don't need to purchase the 3d printer, there are many places you can get the parts printed. I started with the most likely problems to occur with this build. 1. 3d connector to the Bosch battery, i printed the part, added the pins and tested the connector. I also tested the 5vdc that enables the battery. The Bosch battery has 3pins. plus, minus, enable. You must apply a 5vdc from the battery Minus to the enable pin to turn on the battery. If you apply voltage on the Plus and Minus pin greater than the current battery voltage the battery goes into charge mode or else the battery is providing output current. The battery BMS will start charging at 14watts from the panel. It works wonderfully. 2. 3d parts that connect to the trailer. I wanted to make sure the parts fit correctly.. It works wonderfully. 3. 3d parts that frame the solar panel aluminum. The parts worked wonderfully. Next comes the electronics once you know the trailer itself is good to go. I used the same Genasun charge controller. It's an all in one box that gives me adjustment to 42vdc which is what the battery needs to fully charge. Cllena DC 36V 48V Step Down to 12V 30A 360W Voltage Reducer from amazon that takes up to 48vdc input and outputs 12vdc. I powered the same actuator to move the panel back and forth using a fob wireless remote, works great. I used a DC Buck Module step down Reducer that takes 12vdc and outputs 5vdc. The 5vdc is used to enable the battery. I used two Mictuning 36v 48v step down to to USB/UBC to charge devices. I charged an empty 500w BOSCH battery to full using the 100w panel. It does work. However, the 100w panel is just barely enough. Anything other than direct sunlight the charging process stops. This would be a problem on the open road if I encounter a cloudy day. The only issue i am not sure of, the genasun only gets to 41.3 vdc under load so the battery does not get a complete charge but close enough for sure. Not in chris video, I added output usb 3.0 amps plugs, so I can charge all my devices on the open road. After dark, the battery provides power to the usb devices. The panel does charge one battery while you are using the other battery in the bike. So far the panel is able to stay ahead of charging faster than I can use up the current battery running the bike, that was a crucial test to pass. As of July 20 2023, I put the trailer and electronics through test trials of about 500miles through wind, rain and terrain. The trailer was very stable and secured, the panel made no difference being there. I just completed 10 days touring trip around washington state where I did not plug in at all, 100 percent solar charging, The design produces more energy than I can burn. This means there is no waiting around to charge, Just swap batteries and keep going or if your bike can connect to charging as your using it then do that. I should point out, one day I had clouds and rain and sun. This did cause me to get behind the power production and i had to use 2 hours of the next day to catch up. If I am going to pull off long trips I have to consider that I will not always have the best weather, for those reasons I will feel more secure attaching a larger panel. So there you have folks , Chis gets all the credit here, I used his designs and duplicated the process, made some improvements that resulted in a very functional and light weight trailer that a person can actually go on the open road with a realistic solution. If you want a wiring diagram for the electronics , send me email tekisbest@gmail.com ===================================== AS OF WRITING THIS LINE, I EDITED THIS COMMENT.... IT'S JAN 7TH 2024, HERE IS HOW YOU DO THE ELECTRICAL. If you have not yet purchased the solar panel I would go bigger to say 175 at least. The width is the same but just a little longer. Here is why, 1.) The 100w direct sun is just enough to activate the charge to the battery. Cover the panel with just your hand and it's enough to stop. The real world can easy pose a charging problem. 2.) Assuming your bike is pedal assist and you consume about the same power I do! Each light on the battery represents 100w. When I have consumed 3 bars at the most I notice the battery is fully charged, unless something light clouds get in the way of the timeline. I always swap batteries so that I am always charging. The panel will have charged the other battery faster than the battery in the bike is consuming. Another way to look at it, The battery on charge is discharged down to the 3 light or just reaches the second light....when it's fully charged, your bike should be down into the 3rd light. You always want to keep that profile going. Another way to look at this.... You always have about 2.5 light bars swing. That means you discharge a max of 3 bars and can only charge 3 bars..(really only 2.5 light bars) and the panel is exhausted to keep up. It does not matter if it's the bottom 2.5 bars or the top 2.5 bars, this is the swing range that a 100w panel can provide. I always stay on the top 2.5 bars because it's safer when you're out in the middle of nowhere. There is a ratio between how long you can discharge 2.5 bars and charge 2.5 bars. The time it takes to ride that many miles will be longer than the ratio. The end result is that I can keep riding all day and never have to wait for the charging profile to be corrected. Now, onto SETTING up the electrical......... 1. The panel connects directly to genasun, nothing else connects to the input of genasun. Program genasun to 42vdc output. Connect the output of Genasun directly to the plus and minus of the battery. I will talk about the third pin(Enable ) in a minute. When the genasun output is greater than the battery voltage, the BMS in the battery starts to charge the battery and the bar blinks. If the Genasun voltage is lower than the battery voltage, the Battery puts out power. 2. Also connect the output of the Genasun to the input of the Cllena DC 36V 48V Step Down to 12V 30A 360W Voltage Reducer. Hereafter referred to as Cllena. See my parts list below. Connect the output of Cllena (12vdc) to the actuator. The wireless remote will activate this. 3. Also connect the output of Cllena to the input of the Buck converter. See my parts list below. Program the output of the Buck converter for 5vdc output. Connect the output of the Buck converter now at 5vdc to the enable pin on the battery. The system is activated in two ways., Sunlight on the panel will produce output voltage directly to the input Plus and minus of the battery. This also applies voltage to the input of Cllena. Cllena outputs 12vdc to the input of the Buck converter. The Output of buck converter 5vdc activates the enable pin on the battery and keeps the battery activated. It's a feedback loop. Once activated it can not be turned off unless you break the loop by unplugging the panel or unplugging the battery. Once the panel is exposed to sunlight the system will automatically activate itself. The battery should have a test button on it, you press that button to see how many bars light up. Pressing that button also outputs voltage on the Plus and Minus pins of the battery, that is enough to start the feedback loop. Here is where that is useful... 1. Connect to the output of Cllena your choice of usb, usbc or any output power you want to pull from the battery or panel for charging devices directly from your solar trailer.... It's dark, you're camping , you want to charge your phone and power other usb devices... Press the button on the battery and the system activates, no solar needed, all the power is coming from the battery to power your devices all night long. Also, during the day if you don't have enough sun, you can still charge devices. THe power will first come from the panel and if that is not enough, the rest comes from the battery. Genusun See chris parts list for this DC Buck Module, DROK Adjustable Buck Converter Step Down Voltage Regulator 6V-32V 30V 24V 12V to 1.5-32V 5V 5A LCD Power Supply Volt Reducer Transformer Module Board with USB Port Protective Case www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JZ2GQJF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 amazon actuator See Chris parts list for this Cllena DC 36V 48V Step Down to 12V 30A 360W Voltage Reducer www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L7M82WF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 MICTUNING 36W Fast PD USB-C Car Charger with USB Quick Charge 3.0 and Type C Charger Socket with LED Digital Voltmeter Compatible with iPhone Pixel Samsung www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LCBKZSG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Wireless remote www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T877Z77/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@brianparent I have two batteries that go to the ebike, I charge one while using the other. My ebike will not allow direct connection from the solar trailer to the ebike, it's just the way my ebike works. Soo , charge one while using the other.
Very inspiring. I've seen just a few solar bike trailer setups, but never much explanation of the electrical and mechanical setup. Each is a challenge. Would love to see part II with the bluetooth app.
Having travelled 15000km around Europe with a solarbike, I would suggest going for a minimum of 250W panel, since in reality you need to charge moderately fast even on bit cloudier day. Panels under 150W will lead into surprisingly bad results!! Good panel with adjustment like in the video would be a big hit.
I been trying to calculate what the panel size should be, after 600 miles using 100w, it works only if everything goes perfectly with the weather, which it doesn't.... The larger the panel the bulky things get. 200w seems like the best size for pedal assist. If the bike is using a throttle I am guessing it needs to be more....
Two factors that can help picking a lower rate panel: How fast would you like to travel and can you carry a bigger buffer battery (solar station) instead?
@@SonnyDarvish That's right, but it is a challenge just to find a smaller panel produces even 50% of the rated power. I have a lot of bad experiences with them. High quality 100W panel i would say is the minimum, or a branded 150W+ panel. Smaller panels are also usually much lower voltage than the battery, so the charge controller losses will be higher in addition to the problem of finding a decent panel.
I am about to build the same thing on the same trailer but with the electric motor integrated into the trailer wheel. So that during the week I can ride with my conventional bike and on weekends go to the grocery store with the trailer or travel. Thank you for the details about the pieces you have used !
I am about to build a solar trailer with a 200w panel and an integrated rear hub motor as well. I am using a recumbent tadpole trike with a 1000w rear hub motor to pull the trailer. I think I can integrate the controls of both motor with one throttle and one PAS and brakes to the recumbent. All these sensors have 3 wires. The trailer and the trike will have their own controller. This way I will also have a redundancy in the hub wheel. I don’t think I can have tilt because the solar panel will be a canopy mounted higher to accommodate a 100lb dog and a couple of 20ah batteries.
This is impressive. Excellent work. I see a person here with dedication, experience, and knowledge. I aspire to build something similar for myself in the future, and make trips to the south of my country, Chile.
amazing project, with gas prices specially in europe, i can see these projects getting used more often or even comercial solutions given to the consumers, i love my ebike, and i'm planning making a diy solar trailer similar to this
Very nice.. The 12v actuator you used (with remote) can be accomplished by adding 2 light sensors (one on the right) and (one on the left) When the sun hits one, the panel automatically is actuated towards the light. That way you won't have to use a remote.. It will be automated by the position of the sun. This is how large panels are automatically turned.
see my comments above, i finished the trailer, improved upon it, did the electrical and put it all here... I have over 600 miles and two weeks of camping to prove it out... it really works great
From Denmark: Thx so much for sharing. I am thinking about acquiring EL Assist for my ICE SPRINT FS & ZIFLEX Mono Wheel Trailer with suspension, similar to the Burley Coho XC Trailer. Your video comes in handy. I have noticed though that your trailer becomes unstable when the EL panel is tilted downwards, which certainly might have undesirable effects, like vibrations, wear and tear on the axel attachments and whooping effect while driving. This can be corrected by either mounting a counter weight on each side of the panel. That could be very simple, i.e. a counter weight hanging on on a flexible wire, you lift up to achieve a better weight distribution or finding a system, whereby you can move the longitudinal axel that support the panel left or right to acquire a neutral/more balanced weight distribution. All the best.
I built Chris trailer with one design change, I moved the rear post all the way back on the fender. I have over 700 miles on that trailer with out ever plugging in the bike, all solar, The trailer is very sable and does very well over bumpy rough terrain. FYI, today i am changing the solar panel out for a 200w, testing so far shows when the 100w is putting out 57w, the 200w is putting out 165w. wow, what a difference, how the whole thing will work together i will not know after trials
WOW! Post that to the Maker Pipe community forum if you have not already. My MP projects have been featured on their weekly YT vids. This should certainly make the list
Nice, I like your setup - did already 2 tours of 2000 km (also with 100W solar) - I am altering it now to 180 Watt with automated actuating - I have some videos of my tours on my channel. The setup of 2020 with a 36V panel connected to a Victron bluetooth MPPT works best for me at the moment (max output I had was 106 Watts with that panel).
Wondering what is the weight of the whole system without the panel? Reason I ask is that although a tilted panel will generate more power, the extra weight does slow- you down also. Trying to find a balance between pro's and con's. As I mainly bike in Europe poweroutlets are never far and an extra e-bike battery costs only 2,5 kg in weight.
I saw a part solar shroud planner trailer that was fixed except it popped up for sleeping. He had a small solar air foil panel on front and said it was worth while.
Awesome work, I’ve seen a few solar trailers but your setup is one of the most complete, simple and compact I’ve seen, I don’t have the tools to build one (3d printer etc.) but I’d love one, there would be very little needed to turn this into a product that could be sold, you should find a company willing to manufacture it for you.
@@SerendipitySue I guess what I was asking... does the panel produce enough to run indefinately? Or does the battery eventually drain. In other words, is it a net gain or net loss.
@@justinroysdon2630 Erie Canalway Trail is 360 miles and mostly flat. That's 51 miles per day if you're trying to do it in a week. Depending on your fitness level and loaded bike weight, this might be relatively easy or impossibly difficult to do without electric assist.
@@justinroysdon2630 I have a solar ebike with a 315 watt solar array and typically my battery is discharging while riding (net loss) and charging when I stop (net gain). In the summer, I can average over 100 miles per day but terrain, road conditions, weather and pedaling effort determine what's possible on each individual day. This is a 100 watt solar panel so you can extrapolate from there.
Wow, fantastic, my congratulations! However, I consider a simple solution using this very trailer with a horizontal, foldable, and easily removable approx. 160W panel.
I also have a folding 100W panel that fits in my bike bags... but it's a pain to fold out everytime I stop. We're carrying camping stuff in the trailer anyway
@@SerendipitySue This 160W panel would stay open on this trailer all day long. I would remove and fold it only when not needed. There are also light weight 200W panels available now with useful sizes, but without convenient folding option.
@@danielduesentriebjunior Cool, which panel are you using? How big is it? I was trying to keep the trailer CG as low as possible. The tilt angle makes a difference in the early spring / late fall here in NY. I also wanted to make it lay flat if the wind came up.
THe actuator is 12 volts, see my comments above where i describe the electrical and how it all works. I just finished part2. I didn't see where chris had done that. If you want to build this trailer and it work, use all chris stuff and my notes. it really works... the best i have seen...
@@rodrocket8216 if you go to the link provided for the actuator, Amazon shows the spec, I can tell you it’s not much, and it’s not an issue because it’s not used that much throughout the day
Not positive (no pun there fella) but I think I would prefer a gasoline powered direct 48v DC charger setup. If it can be done safely. It seems on paper to be way more efficient - charge rate, weight, balance, cost, reliability (any weather or hour), and simplicity. Simplicity as a system as well. Also you add those up and it equals better safety. Unless you have a vested interest in solar - like you're selling them - I'll take a 20# power-pack - and move to the suburbs cause you're in pickup truck country. And those country people do love their 'shine'. Hope you're well. (6)
I video inspired me years ago, now I got my E-bike 2.0 build on UA-cam. I'm disabled and don't have much money but using what I would afford and my two hands I made my dream Solar E-bike, not much better I can do now. Maybe chuck the lead acid I guess is next.
Lithium batteries are lighter and you can use almost 100% of the energy (unlike lead acid, where you can't go below 50% with out killing the life of the battery)
@@SerendipitySue I started to design a PCB board that would keep the cheap 18650 cell packs balanced but then gave up and sold 4 brand new packs cause the news and all the fire they were showing lol I might put it back out and finish. The boards on my PCBway profile.
Nice would like to built one got the same trailer how can I contact you or would like to know more about the solar charger you built let me know I leave in southern ca
Can a gas generator charge two e-bike batteries at once even if a e-bike battery is 48v and the hub motor is 500w or a 1'000w.Do the gas generator has to be 1,000w to charge the two 500w because I might have to go with a 2,000w gas generator ?
I think you might be confusing capacity (Watt Hours Wh) with power draw (Watts). Charging current is usually a lot less than consumption watts. Look at your current AC charger. I should say what the output is. Your generator would need to able to handle two of those plus some AC-DC loss
SURE - why not? Just connect the chagers of each bicycle to one of the 120 outlets. Only consider an automatic inverter generator with at least 1000 watts cause your chargers are probably less than half that. $400 - try the Wen. Personally I would get a 2200 watt because I would use it for welding. Quiet and will run for many hours on a gallon.
@@SerendipitySue there has to be a way, all these car co. and everyone is talking about charging stations ? when we should be making then run for life of battery on solar a self generation from movement ... the E GEN IS A SCAM by BIG OIL to make sure THEY still control us !!!
If your bike allows you to provide power for consumption and charge at the same time then yes. Your bike will not have a bosch battery by default because the bosch battery is either in charge mode or battery output power mode
Chris, I am trying to build your design. I have down loaded the files and printed the parts. Do you have any more documentation on this build that would assist me in completing it, also does the panel auto seek the sun and how did you do that
message me and I can send photos. I've found that the wireless remote keyfob is the simplest so far. Haven't found a good automatic tracking approach yet
hi super what you build, thinking about the same, don't know how, but if you have 600w behind you, you probably load for 2 kw a day. Does it mean you can drive all day, it's sounds logic..., but the wind wil have it's aim on it. good luck !
Hi, have you shared your experiences with this anywhere? It sounds like a pretty tough environment, I bet something that works in Baja would probably work just about anywhere.
Why dont you just have 2 panels in a pyramid shape? Or even better just build a box over it and have a panel on the top and sides. More coverage and more panels is more power and more range and if you put a battery for saving extra power which i would you can then charge multiple spare batteries even once the sun goes down. You can make it like a pickup truck with a camper so the back can have a bed door that comes down like a pickups. Youde be able to add a good ammount of usable storage could keep a whole large tent setup in there if you wanted
I wanted to be able to flatten the panel if the wind came up. You would also need to have two solar chargers because one panel would be shaded and not producing. Correct angle to sun make more power. I also wanted to make the trailer as light as possible
The purpose of the actuator is point the panel toward the sun, output power doubles. A two panel solution always has one panel poorly producing, one cancels the other. The width can be an issue,
works well for us. We stop to check stuff out often. The battery charges while we are on/off the bikes. Plus we have our camping equipment in the trailer too. Setting up a portable charger every time we stopped would be a pain.
@@SerendipitySueDon't sweat it. I had just spent an hour crafting a reply to let others know that riding with a solar panel sail is far too dangerous to attempt, especially one that is so small that it can't keep up with the power consumption while riding anyway. If all you are doing is a couple long day rides back to back then investing in a pair of large capacity batteries is a way better way to extend your range. But having a power source to recharge electronics, most importantly the ebike battery of course is awesome! I have a few different items that need more than the USB charging ability a dynamo hub offers. The main one being a Fugoo XL Bluetooth speaker (19V) that I always ride with. Using the panel, a Voltage Boosting MPPT Solar Charge Controller, and a variable DC to DC converter lets me charge everything I ride with... when there is sun anyway. It allows me to ride into and through areas that would normally need a support vehicle to access and ride without the panel. Unless you are trying to race through some desert for money and UA-cam followers... like others seem so inclined to do, I'd suggest you carry a panel safely secured in the trailer and deploy it when necessary. It will also save you all the weight and space taken up with your sun tracking system. It's a great-looking system and would be much better suited in other applications. I also suggest you look at trailers that attach at the seat post and don't expand your turning radius like the Coho. It's nice on single-track to be able to turn and corner like an unburdened bike can... and around when necessary. With two 58.8V 35Ah triangle batteries, I have a range in excess of 130 miles even with a fully loaded bike and trailer, even more, when on a hard level surface, and that's without stressing the packs by using only 85% total capacity or over 3300Wh with the pair. What I believe to be the best all-around ebike build: photos.app.goo.gl/ADgC6oyPM2gyrCq27 SunCapture 300W Solar Panel: photos.app.goo.gl/rFim5rPsajmDt8NJ6 25 Jul 20 - Mowich Lake www.relive.cc/view/v8qkd2LGdKv photos.app.goo.gl/hRSTYZ8UjzdpuQ7n8 26 Jul 20 - Rain Forest trail www.relive.cc/view/vQvyDGe2W4q photos.app.goo.gl/WcoVAreB4TUdAiPF7 ua-cam.com/video/WwwdaVg4Y5M/v-deo.html prnt.sc/tsxt5p Stay safe.
@@brianbassett4379 Thanks for your feedback! The solar rig piston does take up some space. The solar system adds weight. I have a folding panel ( amzn.to/2O4xShY ). We stop and explore a lot as we ride. Constantly setting it up was a pain! With the trailer, I just park in the sun. If it get's windy, I just put it in the flat position. I haven't had a turning ratio issue with the COHO trailer yet. I was originally going to build a gooseneck trailer with the seat hitch. I still may. I like the COHO quick release and kickstand. I'm using the solar panel to charge a second ebike battery and additional electronics.
@@SerendipitySue When you ride for days, weeks, even months at a time bike touring, or bike-camping, bike packing... or whatever the newest millennial term that's used to make something seem new, both space and weight become of the utmost importance. My solar panel and batteries are 17 lbs. each... 50+ lbs total but well worth the effort for traveling from base-camp to base-camp. It's also nice to have a $2500.00 solar panel completely protected from inevitable spills. The fun comes when you are in the middle of BFE and able to do multiple long day rides out of camp with a stripped-down bike. It does take some effort to pull the panel out and set it up but after 4 to 6 hours in good sun. I can usually ride for two days before I need to recharge either battery again, about the same amount of time as when I use a Satiator to recharge with AC. Glad to hear you stop to enjoy the roses when you ride, so many don't. I understand that keeping your panel horizontal would help some with gusts but I'd still be very careful especially around semi's... they can pull you into traffic so quickly you can't even react. I can actually turn in a tighter radius with the trailer attached than without it. There is a steep learning curve when the center of gravity is raised but it makes a much better ride overall, and disconnecting the trailer is pretty easy, a matter of 10 seconds maybe. I have a swing-down stand on the trailer for when it's disconnected but when I stop the center-stand on the bike will easily hold both very secure... a must for touring with a trailer. - photos.app.goo.gl/wP8vs7T5hLpNjSBX8 Stay safe.
@@brianbassett4379 That's good to know about big trucks. We ride mostly on bike trails and back roads. I worked hard to keep the center-of-gravity as low as possible to reduce "wagging". I thought about getting a 2 wheel trailer. They are more stable but are heavier and have more drag. The main drawback is that some of the trails have narrow gates/bridges to get thru/over. Some times it's even tricky with just my rear saddle bags. Can't wait for snow to clear on the bike trails! If you are ever riding in Upstate NY, look us up!
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I do a lot of biking over great distance and multi day tours. I want to expand this ability, I really need to solve the problem of charging a spare bosch power tube 500watt battery for my mountain bike. I just happen to already own the Burley CoHo trailer when I stumbled upon Chris video. I wanted to build this solar trailer and all I had to work with is this video. If you want to build this trailer then use this video along with my notes here and it will work for you.
Around 05/2023 , I finished building Chris trailer, It turned out really good. I used the maker pipe T-clamps, total of 3 are needed. For the framing I used 1/2" PVC sch40 in place of metal pipe, it's lighter. I used PVC 1" sch40 that threads through Chris 3d parts and acts like a bearing for the the panel frame to rotate. The leg that mounts to the fender of the trailer, I moved it to the end of the fender instead of the middle where Chris put it, that way I have the entire fender to carry my chair. I am using the same solar panel as listed in Chris parts. After much testing, I think I would go to a 175w panel, it's only 10 inch longer. Chris provides free files for download. You don't need to purchase the 3d printer, there are many places you can get the parts printed. I started with the most likely problems to occur with this build.
1. 3d connector to the Bosch battery, i printed the part, added the pins and tested the connector. I also tested the 5vdc that enables the battery. The Bosch battery has 3pins. plus, minus, enable. You must apply a 5vdc from the battery Minus to the enable pin to turn on the battery. If you apply voltage on the Plus and Minus pin greater than the current battery voltage the battery goes into charge mode or else the battery is providing output current. The battery BMS will start charging at 14watts from the panel. It works wonderfully.
2. 3d parts that connect to the trailer. I wanted to make sure the parts fit correctly.. It works wonderfully.
3. 3d parts that frame the solar panel aluminum. The parts worked wonderfully.
Next comes the electronics once you know the trailer itself is good to go. I used the same Genasun charge controller. It's an all in one box that gives me adjustment to 42vdc which is what the battery needs to fully charge. Cllena DC 36V 48V Step Down to 12V 30A 360W Voltage Reducer from amazon that takes up to 48vdc input and outputs 12vdc. I powered the same actuator to move the panel back and forth using a fob wireless remote, works great. I used a DC Buck Module step down Reducer that takes 12vdc and outputs 5vdc. The 5vdc is used to enable the battery. I used two Mictuning 36v 48v step down to to USB/UBC to charge devices.
I charged an empty 500w BOSCH battery to full using the 100w panel. It does work. However, the 100w panel is just barely enough. Anything other than direct sunlight the charging process stops. This would be a problem on the open road if I encounter a cloudy day.
The only issue i am not sure of, the genasun only gets to 41.3 vdc under load so the battery does not get a complete charge but close enough for sure. Not in chris video, I added output usb 3.0 amps plugs, so I can charge all my devices on the open road. After dark, the battery provides power to the usb devices. The panel does charge one battery while you are using the other battery in the bike. So far the panel is able to stay ahead of charging faster than I can use up the current battery running the bike, that was a crucial test to pass.
As of July 20 2023, I put the trailer and electronics through test trials of about 500miles through wind, rain and terrain. The trailer was very stable and secured, the panel made no difference being there. I just completed 10 days touring trip around washington state where I did not plug in at all, 100 percent solar charging, The design produces more energy than I can burn. This means there is no waiting around to charge, Just swap batteries and keep going or if your bike can connect to charging as your using it then do that. I should point out, one day I had clouds and rain and sun. This did cause me to get behind the power production and i had to use 2 hours of the next day to catch up. If I am going to pull off long trips I have to consider that I will not always have the best weather, for those reasons I will feel more secure attaching a larger panel.
So there you have folks , Chis gets all the credit here, I used his designs and duplicated the process, made some improvements that resulted in a very functional and light weight trailer that a person can actually go on the open road with a realistic solution. If you want a wiring diagram for the electronics , send me email tekisbest@gmail.com
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AS OF WRITING THIS LINE, I EDITED THIS COMMENT.... IT'S JAN 7TH 2024, HERE IS HOW YOU DO THE ELECTRICAL.
If you have not yet purchased the solar panel I would go bigger to say 175 at least. The width is the same but just a little longer. Here is why,
1.) The 100w direct sun is just enough to activate the charge to the battery. Cover the panel with just your hand and it's enough to stop. The real world can easy pose a charging problem.
2.) Assuming your bike is pedal assist and you consume about the same power I do! Each light on the battery represents 100w. When I have consumed 3 bars at the most I notice the battery is fully charged, unless something light clouds get in the way of the timeline. I always swap batteries so that I am always charging.
The panel will have charged the other battery faster than the battery in the bike is consuming. Another way to look at it, The battery on charge is discharged down to the 3 light or just reaches the second light....when it's fully charged, your bike should be down into the 3rd light. You always want to keep that profile going.
Another way to look at this.... You always have about 2.5 light bars swing. That means you discharge a max of 3 bars and can only charge 3 bars..(really only 2.5 light bars) and the panel is exhausted to keep up. It does not matter if it's the bottom 2.5 bars or the top 2.5 bars, this is the swing range that a 100w panel can provide. I always stay on the top 2.5 bars because it's safer when you're out in the middle of nowhere.
There is a ratio between how long you can discharge 2.5 bars and charge 2.5 bars. The time it takes to ride that many miles will be longer than the ratio. The end result is that I can keep riding all day and never have to wait for the charging profile to be corrected.
Now, onto SETTING up the electrical.........
1. The panel connects directly to genasun, nothing else connects to the input of genasun.
Program genasun to 42vdc output. Connect the output of Genasun directly to the plus and minus of the battery. I will talk about the third pin(Enable ) in a minute. When the genasun output is greater than the battery voltage, the BMS in the battery starts to charge the battery and the bar blinks. If the Genasun voltage is lower than the battery voltage, the Battery puts out power.
2. Also connect the output of the Genasun to the input of the Cllena DC 36V 48V Step Down to 12V 30A 360W Voltage Reducer. Hereafter referred to as Cllena. See my parts list below.
Connect the output of Cllena (12vdc) to the actuator. The wireless remote will activate this.
3. Also connect the output of Cllena to the input of the Buck converter. See my parts list below. Program the output of the Buck converter for 5vdc output. Connect the output of the Buck converter now at 5vdc to the enable pin on the battery.
The system is activated in two ways., Sunlight on the panel will produce output voltage directly to the input Plus and minus of the battery. This also applies voltage to the input of Cllena. Cllena outputs 12vdc to the input of the Buck converter. The Output of buck converter 5vdc activates the enable pin on the battery and keeps the battery activated. It's a feedback loop. Once activated it can not be turned off unless you break the loop by unplugging the panel or unplugging the battery. Once the panel is exposed to sunlight the system will automatically activate itself.
The battery should have a test button on it, you press that button to see how many bars light up. Pressing that button also outputs voltage on the Plus and Minus pins of the battery, that is enough to start the feedback loop. Here is where that is useful...
1. Connect to the output of Cllena your choice of usb, usbc or any output power you want to pull from the battery or panel for charging devices directly from your solar trailer....
It's dark, you're camping , you want to charge your phone and power other usb devices... Press the button on the battery and the system activates, no solar needed, all the power is coming from the battery to power your devices all night long.
Also, during the day if you don't have enough sun, you can still charge devices. THe power will first come from the panel and if that is not enough, the rest comes from the battery.
Genusun
See chris parts list for this
DC Buck Module, DROK Adjustable Buck Converter Step Down Voltage Regulator 6V-32V 30V 24V 12V to 1.5-32V 5V 5A LCD Power Supply Volt Reducer Transformer Module Board with USB Port Protective Case
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JZ2GQJF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
amazon actuator
See Chris parts list for this
Cllena DC 36V 48V Step Down to 12V 30A 360W Voltage Reducer
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L7M82WF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
MICTUNING 36W Fast PD USB-C Car Charger with USB Quick Charge 3.0 and Type C Charger Socket with LED Digital Voltmeter Compatible with iPhone Pixel Samsung
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LCBKZSG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Wireless remote
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T877Z77/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can set it up so that you have a battery to store the solar energy while always having the bike plugged to the external battery.
12 volt lithium 100Ah battery or higher Ah depending on your converter.
Hi, I sent you an email to tekisbest a couple days ago and just wanted to make sure you got it. Thanks!
@@brianparent I have two batteries that go to the ebike, I charge one while using the other. My ebike will not allow direct connection from the solar trailer to the ebike, it's just the way my ebike works. Soo , charge one while using the other.
@@jerryheymans6405 I did get your email and have responded a couple of times, I also left a voice mail to the number you left. I have not heard back.
Very inspiring. I've seen just a few solar bike trailer setups, but never much explanation of the electrical and mechanical setup. Each is a challenge. Would love to see part II with the bluetooth app.
yes part II would be amazing
Absolute wow on the controller that allows autopositioning the panel. You always want manual override though. Beautiful setup. Thanks for sharing.
Having travelled 15000km around Europe with a solarbike, I would suggest going for a minimum of 250W panel, since in reality you need to charge moderately fast even on bit cloudier day. Panels under 150W will lead into surprisingly bad results!! Good panel with adjustment like in the video would be a big hit.
I been trying to calculate what the panel size should be, after 600 miles using 100w, it works only if everything goes perfectly with the weather, which it doesn't.... The larger the panel the bulky things get. 200w seems like the best size for pedal assist. If the bike is using a throttle I am guessing it needs to be more....
Two factors that can help picking a lower rate panel: How fast would you like to travel and can you carry a bigger buffer battery (solar station) instead?
@@SonnyDarvish That's right, but it is a challenge just to find a smaller panel produces even 50% of the rated power. I have a lot of bad experiences with them. High quality 100W panel i would say is the minimum, or a branded 150W+ panel. Smaller panels are also usually much lower voltage than the battery, so the charge controller losses will be higher in addition to the problem of finding a decent panel.
I am about to build the same thing on the same trailer but with the electric motor integrated into the trailer wheel. So that during the week I can ride with my conventional bike and on weekends go to the grocery store with the trailer or travel. Thank you for the details about the pieces you have used !
Nice! Let me know how it goes!
How'd that work out for ya?
I am about to build a solar trailer with a 200w panel and an integrated rear hub motor as well. I am using a recumbent tadpole trike with a 1000w rear hub motor to pull the trailer. I think I can integrate the controls of both motor with one throttle and one PAS and brakes to the recumbent. All these sensors have 3 wires. The trailer and the trike will have their own controller. This way I will also have a redundancy in the hub wheel. I don’t think I can have tilt because the solar panel will be a canopy mounted higher to accommodate a 100lb dog and a couple of 20ah batteries.
This is impressive. Excellent work. I see a person here with dedication, experience, and knowledge. I aspire to build something similar for myself in the future, and make trips to the south of my country, Chile.
amazing project, with gas prices specially in europe, i can see these projects getting used more often or even comercial solutions given to the consumers, i love my ebike, and i'm planning making a diy solar trailer similar to this
Very nice.. The 12v actuator you used (with remote) can be accomplished by adding 2 light sensors (one on the right) and (one on the left) When the sun hits one, the panel automatically is actuated towards the light. That way you won't have to use a remote.. It will be automated by the position of the sun. This is how large panels are automatically turned.
Thanks! I thought about that. I also wanted to be able to "Store" the panel for high winds.
Cool for pivoting. Would you not do the same for tilt angle?
Automatic tilting can probably be accomplished with Lego technic robotics.
staying tuned for part II
see my comments above, i finished the trailer, improved upon it, did the electrical and put it all here... I have over 600 miles and two weeks of camping to prove it out... it really works great
From Denmark: Thx so much for sharing. I am thinking about acquiring EL Assist for my ICE SPRINT FS & ZIFLEX Mono Wheel Trailer with suspension, similar to the Burley Coho XC Trailer. Your video comes in handy. I have noticed though that your trailer becomes unstable when the EL panel is tilted downwards, which certainly might have undesirable effects, like vibrations, wear and tear on the axel attachments and whooping effect while driving. This can be corrected by either mounting a counter weight on each side of the panel. That could be very simple, i.e. a counter weight hanging on on a flexible wire, you lift up to achieve a better weight distribution or finding a system, whereby you can move the longitudinal axel that support the panel left or right to acquire a neutral/more balanced weight distribution. All the best.
I built Chris trailer with one design change, I moved the rear post all the way back on the fender. I have over 700 miles on that trailer with out ever plugging in the bike, all solar, The trailer is very sable and does very well over bumpy rough terrain. FYI, today i am changing the solar panel out for a 200w, testing so far shows when the 100w is putting out 57w, the 200w is putting out 165w. wow, what a difference, how the whole thing will work together i will not know after trials
@@enjoylifejourney1669 Yes, I noticed that. You did a very good job indeed. Looking forward to the Trials video.
This is awesome Chris! I'm looking to build a similar system. Thanks for all the detail information.
SunCapture 300W Solar Panel: photos.app.goo.gl/rFim5rPsajmDt8NJ6
Best all-around ebike today: photos.app.goo.gl/ADgC6oyPM2gyrCq27
Great, inventive work! Game-changer for bike tourists!
very well done,especially the sun tracking solar panel.
Very nice set up
WOW! Post that to the Maker Pipe community forum if you have not already. My MP projects have been featured on their weekly YT vids. This should certainly make the list
Thanks! It won the monthly project!
a trick: you can watch series on KaldroStream. I've been using them for watching all kinds of movies during the lockdown.
@Aden Jordan definitely, I've been watching on KaldroStream for months myself :)
@Aden Jordan Yea, I've been watching on KaldroStream for since november myself =)
Great job, Chris. Looks fantastic!
Excellent example of ingenuity❣️
Nice, I like your setup - did already 2 tours of 2000 km (also with 100W solar) - I am altering it now to 180 Watt with automated actuating - I have some videos of my tours on my channel. The setup of 2020 with a 36V panel connected to a Victron bluetooth MPPT works best for me at the moment (max output I had was 106 Watts with that panel).
Wondering what is the weight of the whole system without the panel? Reason I ask is that although a tilted panel will generate more power, the extra weight does slow- you down also. Trying to find a balance between pro's and con's.
As I mainly bike in Europe poweroutlets are never far and an extra e-bike battery costs only 2,5 kg in weight.
It's -10F right now... when it gets a little warmer, I'll go out to the barn and weight it
Very cool and clever ! Well done.
Fantastic job! lots of good info you are starring. Thanks for the links
I saw a part solar shroud planner trailer that was fixed except it popped up for sleeping. He had a small solar air foil panel on front and said it was worth while.
I have a Trek Allant 7+ E-Bike and am also getting a Burley CoHo XC trailer. I am DEFINITELY interested in getting a setup like this+
read my comments above, they expand on chris work and will show you how to improve and do the electrical.
Awesome work, I’ve seen a few solar trailers but your setup is one of the most complete, simple and compact I’ve seen, I don’t have the tools to build one (3d printer etc.) but I’d love one, there would be very little needed to turn this into a product that could be sold, you should find a company willing to manufacture it for you.
This is genius and needs more shares even if you couldn’t run a kick starter selling a kitted list for the diy guys I’d be down thanks for the video
OMG, how cool is this. Love it
very interesting and creative
That’s sick!
Can you explain how the panel auto rotates towards the sun without using any programming to move the panel to the correct location
Nicely done. Subscribed. Look forward to more videos.
Great. You put a lot into that. Way more than the thumbnail indicated. How long does it extend your ride?
We hope it allows us to ride the Albany NY to Buffalo NY Erie Canal bike trail in a week 😉
@@SerendipitySue I guess what I was asking... does the panel produce enough to run indefinately? Or does the battery eventually drain. In other words, is it a net gain or net loss.
@@justinroysdon2630 Erie Canalway Trail is 360 miles and mostly flat. That's 51 miles per day if you're trying to do it in a week. Depending on your fitness level and loaded bike weight, this might be relatively easy or impossibly difficult to do without electric assist.
@@justinroysdon2630 I have a solar ebike with a 315 watt solar array and typically my battery is discharging while riding (net loss) and charging when I stop (net gain). In the summer, I can average over 100 miles per day but terrain, road conditions, weather and pedaling effort determine what's possible on each individual day. This is a 100 watt solar panel so you can extrapolate from there.
Love to see more
Thank you for sharing your ideas You helped me a lot! ^^
Amazing!!
Wow, fantastic, my congratulations! However, I consider a simple solution using this very trailer with a horizontal, foldable, and easily removable approx. 160W panel.
I also have a folding 100W panel that fits in my bike bags... but it's a pain to fold out everytime I stop. We're carrying camping stuff in the trailer anyway
@@SerendipitySue This 160W panel would stay open on this trailer all day long. I would remove and fold it only when not needed. There are also light weight 200W panels available now with useful sizes, but without convenient folding option.
@@danielduesentriebjunior Cool, which panel are you using? How big is it? I was trying to keep the trailer CG as low as possible. The tilt angle makes a difference in the early spring / late fall here in NY. I also wanted to make it lay flat if the wind came up.
@@SerendipitySue Have not bought anything yet.
Great design
Do you know how to get power out of the Bosch battery for other purpose than the bike ?
@@tromzinck unfortunately no. The CAN bus that communicates to the motor seems to be encrypted
This is awesome! How much power would you loss if it was just flat panel facing straight to the sky??
about 15% around here... less towards the equator
Nice to see setup I was trying to do same this might be help me to build mine
see my notes above, i finished the trailer myself, I put all the notes to complete it there
awesome!
Cool.
How much power does the actuator use? What voltage is it?
It depends on the size actuator. I think that one is 12V and 3A max.
THe actuator is 12 volts, see my comments above where i describe the electrical and how it all works. I just finished part2. I didn't see where chris had done that. If you want to build this trailer and it work, use all chris stuff and my notes. it really works... the best i have seen...
@@enjoylifejourney1669 thanks Cobber
@@rodrocket8216 if you go to the link provided for the actuator, Amazon shows the spec, I can tell you it’s not much, and it’s not an issue because it’s not used that much throughout the day
Amazing 😂 you read my mind 😂
Has it worked out well? I am assuming you have a chance to try it out by now.
Works good, haven't used it as much as I wanted though
Not positive (no pun there fella) but I think I would prefer a gasoline powered direct 48v DC charger setup. If it can be done safely. It seems on paper to be way more efficient - charge rate, weight, balance, cost, reliability (any weather or hour), and simplicity. Simplicity as a system as well. Also you add those up and it equals better safety. Unless you have a vested interest in solar - like you're selling them - I'll take a 20# power-pack - and move to the suburbs cause you're in pickup truck country. And those country people do love their 'shine'. Hope you're well.
(6)
top quality
Waooo go and go and go and go stand in the sunlight take sme rest charge and again to go amazing but what about in the night
I video inspired me years ago, now I got my E-bike 2.0 build on UA-cam. I'm disabled and don't have much money but using what I would afford and my two hands I made my dream Solar E-bike, not much better I can do now. Maybe chuck the lead acid I guess is next.
I wish I was better at video making like you. I got to step up I guess.
Lithium batteries are lighter and you can use almost 100% of the energy (unlike lead acid, where you can't go below 50% with out killing the life of the battery)
@@SerendipitySue I started to design a PCB board that would keep the cheap 18650 cell packs balanced but then gave up and sold 4 brand new packs cause the news and all the fire they were showing lol I might put it back out and finish. The boards on my PCBway profile.
Nice would like to built one got the same trailer how can I contact you or would like to know more about the solar charger you built let me know I leave in southern ca
if you look in the youtube about tab, it lists my email. I'm in Upstate NY
@@SerendipitySue dear sir how much to built one economically for a 250watts charger
👍
Can a gas generator charge two e-bike batteries at once even if a e-bike battery is 48v and the hub motor is 500w or a 1'000w.Do the gas generator has to be 1,000w to charge the two 500w because I might have to go with a 2,000w gas generator ?
I think you might be confusing capacity (Watt Hours Wh) with power draw (Watts). Charging current is usually a lot less than consumption watts. Look at your current AC charger. I should say what the output is. Your generator would need to able to handle two of those plus some AC-DC loss
SURE - why not? Just connect the chagers of each bicycle to one of the 120 outlets. Only consider an automatic inverter generator with at least 1000 watts cause your chargers are probably less than half that. $400 - try the Wen. Personally I would get a 2200 watt because I would use it for welding. Quiet and will run for many hours on a gallon.
Hello 👍,, How many wat can you produce!? For the trip... I am realizing my dream with Grin Technology. Trailer dog bike❤️
usually around 80W
love this ;-) is there way to charge while riding on current battery ? like a generator on a car
Not that I've figured out with the Bosch battery
@@SerendipitySue there has to be a way, all these car co. and everyone is talking about charging stations ? when we should be making then run for life of battery on solar a self generation from movement ... the E GEN IS A SCAM by BIG OIL to make sure THEY still control us !!!
If your bike allows you to provide power for consumption and charge at the same time then yes. Your bike will not have a bosch battery by default because the bosch battery is either in charge mode or battery output power mode
Chris, I am trying to build your design. I have down loaded the files and printed the parts. Do you have any more documentation on this build that would assist me in completing it, also does the panel auto seek the sun and how did you do that
message me and I can send photos. I've found that the wireless remote keyfob is the simplest so far. Haven't found a good automatic tracking approach yet
@@SerendipitySue Chris, i just now saw your reply quite by accident thus this late reply. how would i message you any other way other than this.
@@enjoylifejourney1669 if you go to my youtube channel ABOUT tab, you can find my email
After 600 miles of real world use, I agree, wireless remote is the best way, @@SerendipitySue
hi super what you build, thinking about the same, don't know how, but if you have 600w behind you, you probably load for 2 kw a day. Does it mean you can drive all day, it's sounds logic..., but the wind wil have it's aim on it.
good luck !
I flatten the panel if it is windy out. I need a trailer anyway to carry my camping gear. We also stop and explore a lot
I love these do it yourself projects. Is there somewhere I can go and just buy it?
I haven't see any yet... so I had to make my own
@@SerendipitySue Will you build one to sell me?
epic!
ejah wak kito sor
how much mate
All the parts I used are in the video description
We are building solar powered bicycle trailers to explore the Baja outback.
Join our team……
We know the place well…..
Hi, have you shared your experiences with this anywhere? It sounds like a pretty tough environment, I bet something that works in Baja would probably work just about anywhere.
Please use the term lightweight vs falsely claimed 'flexible' panel... silicon cells crack if flex/bend...
Link to trailer not good any longer...
Tilting doesn't work if traveling east or west.
Tilting ONLY works if you are going east or west (sun facing south). When you go north/south the panels have to flatten
🥰🥰🥰😍😍
Why dont you just have 2 panels in a pyramid shape? Or even better just build a box over it and have a panel on the top and sides. More coverage and more panels is more power and more range and if you put a battery for saving extra power which i would you can then charge multiple spare batteries even once the sun goes down. You can make it like a pickup truck with a camper so the back can have a bed door that comes down like a pickups. Youde be able to add a good ammount of usable storage could keep a whole large tent setup in there if you wanted
I wanted to be able to flatten the panel if the wind came up. You would also need to have two solar chargers because one panel would be shaded and not producing. Correct angle to sun make more power. I also wanted to make the trailer as light as possible
The purpose of the actuator is point the panel toward the sun, output power doubles. A two panel solution always has one panel poorly producing, one cancels the other. The width can be an issue,
The wisilng is very annoying ,apart from that the video was good 😊
Very clever, you could make a living selling them.🎰🚴💉 MARK
Totally!
No! I will just ride my donkey everywhere.
Too many energy is wasted dragging that trailer, its better to make everything lighter.
works well for us. We stop to check stuff out often. The battery charges while we are on/off the bikes. Plus we have our camping equipment in the trailer too. Setting up a portable charger every time we stopped would be a pain.
Stop this music its horrible
Dangerous and foolish... but I won't explain. It will just get deleted again. LOL!
I got email that you commented, but nothing was there? What did you say?
@@SerendipitySueDon't sweat it. I had just spent an hour crafting a reply to let others know that riding with a solar panel sail is far too dangerous to attempt, especially one that is so small that it can't keep up with the power consumption while riding anyway. If all you are doing is a couple long day rides back to back then investing in a pair of large capacity batteries is a way better way to extend your range. But having a power source to recharge electronics, most importantly the ebike battery of course is awesome! I have a few different items that need more than the USB charging ability a dynamo hub offers. The main one being a Fugoo XL Bluetooth speaker (19V) that I always ride with. Using the panel, a Voltage Boosting MPPT Solar Charge Controller, and a variable DC to DC converter lets me charge everything I ride with... when there is sun anyway. It allows me to ride into and through areas that would normally need a support vehicle to access and ride without the panel. Unless you are trying to race through some desert for money and UA-cam followers... like others seem so inclined to do, I'd suggest you carry a panel safely secured in the trailer and deploy it when necessary. It will also save you all the weight and space taken up with your sun tracking system. It's a great-looking system and would be much better suited in other applications. I also suggest you look at trailers that attach at the seat post and don't expand your turning radius like the Coho. It's nice on single-track to be able to turn and corner like an unburdened bike can... and around when necessary. With two 58.8V 35Ah triangle batteries, I have a range in excess of 130 miles even with a fully loaded bike and trailer, even more, when on a hard level surface, and that's without stressing the packs by using only 85% total capacity or over 3300Wh with the pair.
What I believe to be the best all-around ebike build: photos.app.goo.gl/ADgC6oyPM2gyrCq27
SunCapture 300W Solar Panel: photos.app.goo.gl/rFim5rPsajmDt8NJ6
25 Jul 20 - Mowich Lake
www.relive.cc/view/v8qkd2LGdKv
photos.app.goo.gl/hRSTYZ8UjzdpuQ7n8
26 Jul 20 - Rain Forest trail
www.relive.cc/view/vQvyDGe2W4q
photos.app.goo.gl/WcoVAreB4TUdAiPF7
ua-cam.com/video/WwwdaVg4Y5M/v-deo.html
prnt.sc/tsxt5p
Stay safe.
@@brianbassett4379 Thanks for your feedback! The solar rig piston does take up some space. The solar system adds weight. I have a folding panel ( amzn.to/2O4xShY ). We stop and explore a lot as we ride. Constantly setting it up was a pain! With the trailer, I just park in the sun. If it get's windy, I just put it in the flat position. I haven't had a turning ratio issue with the COHO trailer yet. I was originally going to build a gooseneck trailer with the seat hitch. I still may. I like the COHO quick release and kickstand. I'm using the solar panel to charge a second ebike battery and additional electronics.
@@SerendipitySue When you ride for days, weeks, even months at a time bike touring, or bike-camping, bike packing... or whatever the newest millennial term that's used to make something seem new, both space and weight become of the utmost importance. My solar panel and batteries are 17 lbs. each... 50+ lbs total but well worth the effort for traveling from base-camp to base-camp. It's also nice to have a $2500.00 solar panel completely protected from inevitable spills. The fun comes when you are in the middle of BFE and able to do multiple long day rides out of camp with a stripped-down bike. It does take some effort to pull the panel out and set it up but after 4 to 6 hours in good sun. I can usually ride for two days before I need to recharge either battery again, about the same amount of time as when I use a Satiator to recharge with AC. Glad to hear you stop to enjoy the roses when you ride, so many don't. I understand that keeping your panel horizontal would help some with gusts but I'd still be very careful especially around semi's... they can pull you into traffic so quickly you can't even react. I can actually turn in a tighter radius with the trailer attached than without it. There is a steep learning curve when the center of gravity is raised but it makes a much better ride overall, and disconnecting the trailer is pretty easy, a matter of 10 seconds maybe. I have a swing-down stand on the trailer for when it's disconnected but when I stop the center-stand on the bike will easily hold both very secure... a must for touring with a trailer. - photos.app.goo.gl/wP8vs7T5hLpNjSBX8
Stay safe.
@@brianbassett4379 That's good to know about big trucks. We ride mostly on bike trails and back roads. I worked hard to keep the center-of-gravity as low as possible to reduce "wagging". I thought about getting a 2 wheel trailer. They are more stable but are heavier and have more drag. The main drawback is that some of the trails have narrow gates/bridges to get thru/over. Some times it's even tricky with just my rear saddle bags. Can't wait for snow to clear on the bike trails! If you are ever riding in Upstate NY, look us up!
👍