Aside from chrisfix I have yet to see anyone else than you guys and him to have such a detailed and extensive video while still straight to the point. You cover so much but it's all useful. Definitely subscribing and liking. Amazing content guys.
You forgot to mention that before you put on the new wheel bearing you should Use a grinder or sandpaper and clean the hole where the bearing slides into and maybe put a little bit of grease on it to make sure that the bearing goes in there straight
note to who ever does this, when you’re hammering the hub, if you hit the dust shield you will bend it and it will rub against your rotor so don’t think it’s your new bearing making that scrapping noise when you drive, just take the wheel off and grab pliers and bend the shield away from the rotor carefully.
Good video series especially for those who don't know how to do them. It's good to see someone showing younger people with simple steps that they themselves can do it as well. I do all my stuff and also do repair so I was just seeing if they're was much difference and you guys are pretty much spot on!
Thanks for the video. I used it when replacing the hub on my '09. One useful tip, the ABS sensor cable needs to be on the side closest to the mounting hole on the splashguard, not on the bottom. Yes, I was stupid enough to torque everything down prior to attaching and checking the slack. Hope I don't ruin anything when I take it back apart. Another issue I had was getting the axle out of the bearing. Tried my bearing puller but really did not budge. Had to use an air hammer to get it out. Last item, the fastener holding the disc on was a T30 bolt. Important to know since many Torx bit sets only go up to T28.
Good video! Valuable information it's going to help me when I replace my hub and bearings I'm tired of getting bent over at the mechanic shop every time I go it's ridiculous anyway thanks guys sorry for the rant 🤗
I always enjoy the videos, and this really helped me out. I agree about that aligning the caliper bolts can be very annoying. I've had 10 minutes of hand scraping pain doing. The knuckle buster avoidance tip, and all explanation was excellent. Thank you.
Nice video but the pulley puller is not needed I've replaced dozens of hubs on these cars and all you have to do is hit the brakes really hard in reverse right for you do the jobs and it puts opposite pressure on splines of the axle and that usually makes it come free
So before you take the caliper off you loosen the spline nut and put the car in reverse then hit the brakes? That will un-seize the spine from the hub? I will try it. I tried a puller with the bolts still in the hub to loosen the spline but no luck. I am getting a hydraulic puller to see if that will loosen it but this may be a neat trick.
I had to use a 20 ton hydraulic gear puller when I replaced the hub on my Impala. Made sure to put a California liberal amount of anti-seize on the splines when I put the new one on.
Very nice video, I absolutely just did mine with just this video as instruction: I want to add that I definitely used a gear puller, a 4 lb hammer (heck with that rubber mallet thou I had that too), 2-3 different chisels / punch sticks, PB Blaster, Carburetor / Brake Cleaner, compressed air, Anti-seize compound and some steel tubes to extend the ratchet for better torque (some of the nuts / bolts require over 100 foot-pounds)... The axle nut came off with a 1/2" pneumatic gun, compressed air tool that is. I'm not convinced that it's a true 34mm, that is the socket I used since that's what the instructions said but I felt it was loose on the nut. No busted knuckles, I may have said a bad word but it wasn't out of control and I'm not even sure I went there thou I did have to run out mid-job to purchase 3 new bolts since mid-video they instructed NOT to reuse the old ones... Kind of miffed they wouldn't include these in the kit to begin with, even if it costs extra... The old assembly came apart inside the wheel, all the electronics were stuck in there, had to punch and pull these out piece by piece. Oh and a floor jack to lift the car up in the air, to tighten the axle nut back on I started the car then wedged a steel extension between the brake pedal and the seat so as to hold down the brake while I tightened the nut... They said 150 ft.lbs. but I got it as tight as it would go and that is that. Here's the video I found extremely helpful: ua-cam.com/video/tiOxpo7mll4/v-deo.html
Great video. A good addition to the series for the 99-06 range Impala and Tahoe/Suburban/Yukon and Denali series would be Power Steering Pump Diagnosis, Flushing, Replacement and Bleeding of the system which can all be done affordably for the DIY'er..... Timing Belt and Water Pump Kits along with Thermostats on Toyota, Hyundai, Honda and other like brands along with water pump replacement on Dodge Dakota Pickups and other Dodge Pickups as well. Keep up the great Vids.
You guys are gonna have to pick up busch or budweiser to sponsor you with free beer :) Great video and thanks for the share. Will be sharing this in an impala group online.
A good torque wrench goes a long way, they're pretty easy to use - set it to the desired torque (instructions should say) then keep going until it clicks.
AWESOME VIDEO THANK YOU!!! Literally the best on the subject on UA-cam & by pros not jokers who THINK they know - it’s basically perfect I did this on my 2010 exactly as shown no problems! How ANYONE could thumbs down this video is OBVIOUS proof there will always be the tiny few who can NEVER like anything theyre so miserable LOL.
I can't figure out what's wrong with my Impala that has the traction ABS everything keeps coming on but I don't know what if it's the front or the back I love your videos watch all the time
UM, one thing I noticed *missing*..there's a T30 torx bolt that tightens the rotor to the hub assembly(one of the three holes inside the circle of the wheel studs).From the condition of the rotor/rust in those counterbores, I'm figuring this is a boneyard example(nbd), and the original was snapped on a previous brake job(they sieze badly>so pb ahead of time). w/o it, might be annoying judder you can't track down. just a suggestion
What about when pressing on my brakes and the whole car shakes? I have replaced the rotor, brakes and calipers. I noticed that one of the calipers guide pins jams up. I have read that it could be a warped hub. Any way I am replacing these tomorrow. This video gave me all the torque's.
We actually live in a climate here that has a lot of salt and moisture in the air. We are located on a island and salt water gets blown into the air regularly. Due to this we see rust build up on rotors like this in days. If my personal daily sits over a weekend and there's a lot of rain and wind I can feel the rust on the rotors. Its just something we live with.
When it comes to instructional fix-it videos, this is the crem-de-la-crem, the Nobel prize winner, and the best of the best in the world. Nothing could be made clearer or easier. I have been quoted every price from $500 to $238 to do this. You make it seem easy and I'm sure that it is, now that you have demonstrated it so fantastically well. You deserve the Nobel Pizza Prize for this! (Best if eaten while still hot. Not recommended for wearing around neck!)
Genuine question and could really use some advice: I have a 2011 Chevy Impala that needs the front left hub assembly replaced. But when I took it to my mechanic, he tried all day to get it off and couldn't. He said the splines were fused due to heat build up from the bad ball bearings inside the assembly, and it would need a new axle, steering knuckle, AND hub assembly to repair it. Is there any kind of way that the assembly can be broken loose, or am I really going to have to have a super expensive ($600-$800 due to front end alignment) repair? I would really appreciate some helpful advice because I don't want to get rid of this car. Thanks!
Since not to reuse old bolts, what are the thread/depth/material for the new 3 13mm bolts? Would be nice to have all parts before getting car off the ground.
Is the hub what causes the car to shake? Mine feels loose when I move it. I want to replace today if possible. Just need to go get a couple tools. Can you please respond as soon as you can? Been like this for a couple months and it’s getting worse.
It could be - if you feel a shimmy (if it's the front it could be worse when on the brakes) and a rumbling/roaring that changes with speed it's a likely culprit.
I bet it was from Rock Auto because from another video where Chris said that he has a lot of magnets and Rock Auto gives out magnets with every purchase.
I used the cheap replacement front hub bearings. Driver side, Lasted only 1 year. Now today, I ordered A/C Delco. ( Mabee I over torqued the center hub nut)...🚗
Any ideas on a good brand of hub? Amazon has the cheapest, some with good reviews... but I'm skeptical! For those who have replaced lots of these, which ones last and/or do you recommend? Thanks in advance!
I have never had a wheel bearing come out that easily.... And you say you did not prep this prior? Hoping the one I have to change comes out like that. Good video by the way
If it helps, we *were* planning on cheating. We had a torch and a hammer and a giant gear puller then it just.. came out. I wouldn't believe me either.
Aside from chrisfix I have yet to see anyone else than you guys and him to have such a detailed and extensive video while still straight to the point. You cover so much but it's all useful. Definitely subscribing and liking. Amazing content guys.
We learned from the best!
ua-cam.com/video/vq3BvUO9dI8/v-deo.html
Thank you for going over all the tools needed. Very professionally done.
Right! We shade tree UA-cam mechanics need all the help we can get.
You forgot to mention that before you put on the new wheel bearing you should Use a grinder or sandpaper and clean the hole where the bearing slides into and maybe put a little bit of grease on it to make sure that the bearing goes in there straight
This tutorial had way more style than most mech vids. Well done!
Thanks!
note to who ever does this, when you’re hammering the hub, if you hit the dust shield you will bend it and it will rub against your rotor so don’t think it’s your new bearing making that scrapping noise when you drive, just take the wheel off and grab pliers and bend the shield away from the rotor carefully.
Good video series especially for those who don't know how to do them. It's good to see someone showing younger people with simple steps that they themselves can do it as well. I do all my stuff and also do repair so I was just seeing if they're was much difference and you guys are pretty much spot on!
Excellent video. Thanks for posting it. Appreciate the dry sense of humor. "Cover up your shiny new wheel hub with a rusty old rotor...much better."
Wouldn't want it looking too nice!
You guys rock. Step-by-step leaving zero guess work for me.
Thanks for the video. I used it when replacing the hub on my '09. One useful tip, the ABS sensor cable needs to be on the side closest to the mounting hole on the splashguard, not on the bottom. Yes, I was stupid enough to torque everything down prior to attaching and checking the slack. Hope I don't ruin anything when I take it back apart.
Another issue I had was getting the axle out of the bearing. Tried my bearing puller but really did not budge. Had to use an air hammer to get it out.
Last item, the fastener holding the disc on was a T30 bolt. Important to know since many Torx bit sets only go up to T28.
It's a miracle we got it out so easily, this thing did a lifetime of duty in salt/slush.
You can also rotate the wheel to left or right.... your welcome!
Yours and 1aauto are the best videos iv found to help me with my cars. I feel you two should work together.
Repair shop wants 600 to replace my hub, i will do it myself now,thanks for the detailed video
Good video! Valuable information it's going to help me when I replace my hub and bearings I'm tired of getting bent over at the mechanic shop every time I go it's ridiculous anyway thanks guys sorry for the rant 🤗
This REALLY helped me get the job done! Saved me hundreds of dollars, just took some time.
THANKS!
You just saved me 15% on my mechanic bill..tks for the great video.
done 6 of these this month... not one of the came off with a few smacks of a hammer. Wheel bearing removal tool needed to ease the removal.
I always enjoy the videos, and this really helped me out.
I agree about that aligning the caliper bolts can be very annoying. I've had 10 minutes of hand scraping pain doing. The knuckle buster avoidance tip, and all explanation was excellent. Thank you.
Nice video but the pulley puller is not needed I've replaced dozens of hubs on these cars and all you have to do is hit the brakes really hard in reverse right for you do the jobs and it puts opposite pressure on splines of the axle and that usually makes it come free
So before you take the caliper off you loosen the spline nut and put the car in reverse then hit the brakes? That will un-seize the spine from the hub? I will try it. I tried a puller with the bolts still in the hub to loosen the spline but no luck. I am getting a hydraulic puller to see if that will loosen it but this may be a neat trick.
I had to use a 20 ton hydraulic gear puller when I replaced the hub on my Impala. Made sure to put a California liberal amount of anti-seize on the splines when I put the new one on.
But it's that one time, and your one car is up on stands.
@@sizzlin321 don't ever get a Cali. mechanic to do the work, all you will hear is but it was rusty so it took four hours.
Very nice video, I absolutely just did mine with just this video as instruction:
I want to add that I definitely used a gear puller, a 4 lb hammer (heck with that rubber mallet thou I had that too), 2-3 different chisels / punch sticks, PB Blaster, Carburetor / Brake Cleaner, compressed air, Anti-seize compound and some steel tubes to extend the ratchet for better torque (some of the nuts / bolts require over 100 foot-pounds)...
The axle nut came off with a 1/2" pneumatic gun, compressed air tool that is. I'm not convinced that it's a true 34mm, that is the socket I used since that's what the instructions said but I felt it was loose on the nut.
No busted knuckles, I may have said a bad word but it wasn't out of control and I'm not even sure I went there thou I did have to run out mid-job to purchase 3 new bolts since mid-video they instructed NOT to reuse the old ones... Kind of miffed they wouldn't include these in the kit to begin with, even if it costs extra... The old assembly came apart inside the wheel, all the electronics were stuck in there, had to punch and pull these out piece by piece.
Oh and a floor jack to lift the car up in the air, to tighten the axle nut back on I started the car then wedged a steel extension between the brake pedal and the seat so as to hold down the brake while I tightened the nut... They said 150 ft.lbs. but I got it as tight as it would go and that is that.
Here's the video I found extremely helpful:
ua-cam.com/video/tiOxpo7mll4/v-deo.html
Great video.
A good addition to the series for the 99-06 range Impala and Tahoe/Suburban/Yukon and Denali series would be Power Steering Pump Diagnosis, Flushing, Replacement and Bleeding of the system which can all be done affordably for the DIY'er.....
Timing Belt and Water Pump Kits along with Thermostats on Toyota, Hyundai, Honda and other like brands along with water pump replacement on Dodge Dakota Pickups and other Dodge Pickups as well. Keep up the great Vids.
Great vid guys, thanks!
Just fyi, my 06 impala, as well as one other I’ve worked on also 06, had a 1 5/16” spindle nut, as opposed to 34mm.
My caliper bolts were 18s not 15 as well but otherside it was a good video
You guys are gonna have to pick up busch or budweiser to sponsor you with free beer :) Great video and thanks for the share. Will be sharing this in an impala group online.
Excellent video 2 👍🏾👍🏾 up. I'm glad you tell the people the torque specs.
I’ve watch a lot of different videos, so far I like your video guys, good job and thanks for the tips, keep them coming
This is one of the best videos I have seen in a long time. Everything is laid out step by step including the torques. Good job guys.
Nothing more worse than when they go "torque them up and done!"
@@LemurMonitors I agree.
Very detailed and informative. Budweiser is the reward
Thanks for the video. You just saved me a bunch of dollars. Best video of 4 videos. You had the torque specs!
I’ve watched 10 of these videos and they all give different torques on the same exact car
Awesome! Poor Chris! He did all the work!
Right??
I like how you explained the process as you were going and named every part as you removed it.
Thanks!
You'll helped me ... I'm thankful for your channel
nice video...i'm about to do both the left and right side on my impala...
I'm so jealous of how you were able to loosen the axle nut so easily, I've been at for hrs and it won't give
Spray with pb blaster first. Makes it easier.
Great DIY video yourself, good detail with safety tips and humor!
Thanks!
WOW!! AWESOME VIDEO AND INSTRUCTIONS!! THANKS!!.
NO PROB!
Good Video; can believe you put that old rotor and caliber on that new hub!
That's a video for another day!
.. of course with winter coming it won't be long before the new ones look the same way
By far the best video EVER! I think I can do it!
Sooo detailed thank you! I’m going to try myself! However I don’t know how to torque HELP😩
A good torque wrench goes a long way, they're pretty easy to use - set it to the desired torque (instructions should say) then keep going until it clicks.
@@LemurMonitors will the wrench say the measurements. Does it have settings
Valance Bohm yes it will have selection
Very instructional. Great video.
AWESOME VIDEO THANK YOU!!!
Literally the best on the subject on UA-cam & by pros not jokers who THINK they know - it’s basically perfect I did this on my 2010 exactly as shown no problems!
How ANYONE could thumbs down this video is OBVIOUS proof there will always be the tiny few who can NEVER like anything theyre so miserable LOL.
Our car had a screw holding the axle in place, no need for the gear puller. But we did destroy three of our 13 mm sockets on those bolts on the back.
Well done video I appreciate!
I can't figure out what's wrong with my Impala that has the traction ABS everything keeps coming on but I don't know what if it's the front or the back I love your videos watch all the time
good video explaining details on replacing the bearing, thank you & Happy Holidays..
Thank You!
Wait why did you have to press the brakes while torquing the axle nut?
Fear no fix!! Love it!
thanks. so easy a bonsai enthusiast can do it 👍
The best mechanics
UM, one thing I noticed *missing*..there's a T30 torx bolt that tightens the rotor to the hub assembly(one of the three holes inside the circle of the wheel studs).From the condition of the rotor/rust in those counterbores, I'm figuring this is a boneyard example(nbd), and the original was snapped on a previous brake job(they sieze badly>so pb ahead of time). w/o it, might be annoying judder you can't track down. just a suggestion
Thank you guys.
👍🏾
videos well done and helpful
"cover up your shiny new wheel hub with a rusty rotor"
i'm dying lol
When Chris cracked the beer. Had me laughing
Love you guys! Lol love the humor in this one! :P excellent work!
What about when pressing on my brakes and the whole car shakes? I have replaced the rotor, brakes and calipers. I noticed that one of the calipers guide pins jams up. I have read that it could be a warped hub. Any way I am replacing these tomorrow. This video gave me all the torque's.
Great video guys ! Keep up the good work. ;)
Best words I've heard all day: "Now that's a man's tool." lol
Forget a beer. I need some shine and a doobie. This thing was tiring, as I had run of the mill equipment lol
Blue Fast Forward hope you at least had a breaker bar
Is there a wire for non ABS vehicles?
Okay so I've never used a torque wrench before. You say it can be set for different pounds?
Awesome vid. Its beer 30 everyday son! Lol
Informative vifeo but Instead of beating the caliper on why didnt you compress the caliper pistons?
Best video ever. Thank you very much.
Thanks!
How long has this car been sitting? In use rotors don't look like that
We actually live in a climate here that has a lot of salt and moisture in the air. We are located on a island and salt water gets blown into the air regularly. Due to this we see rust build up on rotors like this in days. If my personal daily sits over a weekend and there's a lot of rain and wind I can feel the rust on the rotors. Its just something we live with.
Thanks guys, I thought I was supposed to leave a little play on the axle nut. Opps lol
Awesome, Thank you
Job well done! thank you so much for sharing, I truly appreciate it, good luck with your channel.
Happy to help!
This was a awesome ghetto video lol yall did good but dude said "I'm here ☺️👍🏼" lol
When it comes to instructional fix-it videos, this is the crem-de-la-crem, the Nobel prize winner, and the best of the best in the world. Nothing could be made clearer or easier. I have been quoted every price from $500 to $238 to do this. You make it seem easy and I'm sure that it is, now that you have demonstrated it so fantastically well. You deserve the Nobel Pizza Prize for this! (Best if eaten while still hot. Not recommended for wearing around neck!)
I'll put the nomination papers together!
TRQs repair video for this job says 118 ft lbs for the axle nut and other videos say 140 or 125 lol. Kind of wondering what the actual torque spec is
The sensor cable means the abs?
Would it be bad if I put a little wheel bearing grease into the gears before sitting in the new wheel bearing?
How would u brake the axle nutt without messing the wheel bearings up ? Ik u didn't explain cause y'all are changing the hubs just courios
Thanks again
What is the torque on the rear hub bearing assembly on a 2012 Chevy impala LTZ ❓
Genuine question and could really use some advice:
I have a 2011 Chevy Impala that needs the front left hub assembly replaced. But when I took it to my mechanic, he tried all day to get it off and couldn't. He said the splines were fused due to heat build up from the bad ball bearings inside the assembly, and it would need a new axle, steering knuckle, AND hub assembly to repair it. Is there any kind of way that the assembly can be broken loose, or am I really going to have to have a super expensive ($600-$800 due to front end alignment) repair? I would really appreciate some helpful advice because I don't want to get rid of this car. Thanks!
How did you make out?
I didn't know Murr from Impossible Jokers was a mechanic too.
Great job thank you!’n
Since not to reuse old bolts, what are the thread/depth/material for the new 3 13mm bolts? Would be nice to have all parts before getting car off the ground.
buy them from auto parts supplier by manufacturers specs
How long do these things usually take?
Book time for a shop would be around 1 hour, but if attempting on your own, we'd recommend planning for double or triple that!
Is this about similar compared to a 2018 impala?
Great videos you guys are awesome
Thanks!
Did it right did not see shred lock for any bolts saw three vidios that put three lock blue on every bolt and torq them what's the point
Is the hub what causes the car to shake? Mine feels loose when I move it. I want to replace today if possible. Just need to go get a couple tools. Can you please respond as soon as you can? Been like this for a couple months and it’s getting worse.
It could be - if you feel a shimmy (if it's the front it could be worse when on the brakes) and a rumbling/roaring that changes with speed it's a likely culprit.
What brand of bearing hub did you use? There seems to be a lot of choices out there.
I bet it was from Rock Auto because from another video where Chris said that he has a lot of magnets and Rock Auto gives out magnets with every purchase.
I used the cheap replacement front hub bearings. Driver side, Lasted only 1 year. Now today, I ordered A/C Delco. ( Mabee I over torqued the center hub nut)...🚗
I FEAR NO FIX NOW!!!!!!
🤘
My 2009 goes in next wed
Good luck, watch your knuckles!
Why don't you mention upfront that new bolts and axle nuts are called for?
thank for help it's a good video .
I have a 2013 Impala I've been scared to jack it up from the aluminum sub frame. Has anyone done this and bent the sub-frame?
Any ideas on a good brand of hub? Amazon has the cheapest, some with good reviews... but I'm skeptical! For those who have replaced lots of these, which ones last and/or do you recommend? Thanks in advance!
Mike Lawler go with moog or other high name don’t use cheap you will regret it
Question why doesn’t this 34mm socket fit on this axel nut on my 12 impala?
Never mind deep-well duh🤦♂️
Best Video I've seen
Thanks!
I have never had a wheel bearing come out that easily.... And you say you did not prep this prior? Hoping the one I have to change comes out like that. Good video by the way
If it helps, we *were* planning on cheating. We had a torch and a hammer and a giant gear puller then it just.. came out.
I wouldn't believe me either.
@@LemurMonitors I changed both of the wheel bearings in about 2 hours!! They actually came off with just a tap from the hammer!! Couldn't believe it!!
easy solution take off strut bolts then its a straight shot just pull hub flat then your looking down at it. easy peezy @C Hansen
Aweson job
No wheel speed indicator on the 07 chevy impala, and star nut on the rotor to remove it, just for anyone who might need that extra guidance.
What size star nut?
Do you have any videos on how to replace a fuel injector on the same vehicle?
Not yet, but a good one to add to the list!
Chris is funny guy
MY 2008 chevy impala LT has no axle nut. makes everything confusing.
How can we know if the issue from harness wire pr the hub itself?
How long is that break bar?