Very concise & easy to understand. I did engineering many years ago & when you brought up "R value" it peekd my interest to redo insulation in my home.
Im in commercial construction, been a superintendent for 25 years. The bottom line is to prevent ANY water or air into the structure, by waterproofing, damp proofing, caulking, vapor barrier, etc. As far as insulation, closed cell is the way to go. Have you ever looked at an older home up in the attic, and notice the batt insulation is only 2" thick (or less)? The insulation breaks down and gets into your HVAC system, and you get to breathe that lovely stuff in. Id advise consulting with a commercial builder. Most home builders our a joke, they take way too many short cuts. I hope this helps some one.
Thanks for this wonderful explanation. We are completing a camper van conversion this year, and I just needed confirmation that the full closed cell foam insulation with the false floor installed is the right move, because so many people are using Havelock wool. We may add the more eco-friendly cork wood on top, but we’re definitely choosing the closed cell foam.
I am considering adding foam insulation to my unfinished basement. Your video is quite timely and offered clear explanations and insights! Thank you. I live in the northern reaches of NYS, in the North Country and man is it COLD right now!
I sprayed my basement walls closed cell ..field stone ledge basement. 2inches thick. Freezing cold of the north. Even when its -18 degrees or more. My basements stays above 80 degrees.. Its warmer then the rest of the house
Thankyou Mr. Maxwell, for taking the time to explain the differences. I have recently been trying to find an explanation that makes sense to me, and here it is! Much appreciated.
there is one more advantage of open cell spray foam that you did not mention and that is that the open cell is better at absorbing sound... And close cell foam is harder and reflects sound.. Just throwing my 2cents in ;)
@@reddog418 Sound transfer is also part of that, as well as frequency of the sounds. Tests have shown otherwise: www.stellrr.com/comparing-sound-attenuation-insulation-materials/#comment-29 The open cell doesn't allow the transfer of sound through the cell wall structure for sounds between 100 Hz and 4000 Hz, for example.
@@reddog418 actually not. Closed cell has a hard surface so sound waved don’t penetrate into the foam. The will however cause the entire mass the reverberate and transfer the sound to the other side. Closed cell is quieter than nothing, but not as much as open cell. I’ve had hands on experience with if for the last 10 years as I install both. Most of what I do is closed cell.
Steve, Thank you for the informative video. I am a spray foam contractor in northern Wisconsin and have been for 18 years. We offer both open cell and closed cell products and have hundreds of projects sprayed with both open and closed cell foams. Both types are a certified air barrier (4 inches for open cell and at 2 inches for closed cell) that separate warm air from cold air thus eliminating condensation.Mold can not form unless it has moisture and a food source to grow. Both foams effectively stop this process. Both foams also prevent dust and allergens from entering your building. It is true that at 2 inches or more of closed cell foam creates its own vapor barrier and that is a plus. When using open cell you need a minimum of 3 mil plastic for a vapor barrier. However if you are installing drywall over your insulation you can use a vapor barrier primer/paint over your drywall instead of plastic underneath and it does an excellent job.I prefer closed cell but I certainly don't have a problem using open cell. When used correctly both foams are infinitely better than batt or blown insulations for many reasons. Most notably the 40% to 50% savings on your heating and cooling bills. There are many variables to consider when using spray foam but at the end of the day they are both well worth the investment. If anyone has questions feel free to call Jon at Northern Foam Insulators at 715-922-0246. Thanks.
This is all good info, if insulating a vaulted ceiling ( 2 x 6's ) of a screened porch in order to enclose the room, which would you use? It occasionally gets mildew now as it's open and in humid SC. It's just sheathed with 3/4" and shingles but would like to insulate ceiling and put bead board over insulation. And does it need venting?
I'm planning to spray foam my van. Mainly to stop condensation from forming on the inside. I live near Vancouver Canada. You mentioned that it is important to achieve an impossible amount inside a van of 3" of close cell to prevent water vapour from migrating.
if you are just doing your van to stop condensation then 25mm or 1" will be plenty , i have sprayed hundreds of vans and steel boats over the 30 years i have been spraying closed cell foam , hope this helps.
Do more reasearch, I used great stuff which is closed cell foam on my truck and it rusted out everything really bad. It rusted from the foam side out. It flat ruined my truck.
Hi, I work as a field inspector for the biggest foundation company in the country. Tip: Only use this in vented attics or on old basement walls made of Field stone/River rocks - it should be treated as a last resort. 2 inch foam board has twice the R value and is your best bet for almost any project. NEVER USE THIS ON WOOD REGULARLY EXPOSED TO HIGH LEVELS OF MOISTURE.
“This” being what?....Closed or Open? We just had closed cell sprayed below floor (crawlspace) to protect new oak hardwood floors from cupping. Above ground is fiberglass batt but below is spray foam. I was told closed cell will also help stop insects from crawling inside from below. Not sure if this is true but I heard Close cell under subfloor also blocks Radon. Must be applied by well trained installer, if too thick toxic fumes will never go away.
I've sprayed foams for over 25 years. The claims from closed cell proponents *(which includes this guy) about OC do not "hold water" . It is not the function of insulation to control HUMIDITY inside the structure, let alone stop a leak! If you are getting liquid water or dewpoint under your roof, DON'T BLAME THE INSULATION. -That is the function of the roof integrity, air tightness of the building, and the HVAC system, (no , it's not ventilation, which only depressurizes your structure and is immediately is replaced by humid makeup air from outside.) The key to controlling moisture dewpoint occurrence is to link your attic to the conditioned space, not outside air. Open or closed, both function better than fiberglass because they block the intrusion of outside air, and do a tremendous job of blocking convection within the cavity. Open cell has a very low porosity , and gravity will allow a leak to show itself, but nothing like the fiberous insulations. Closed has zero porosity, but will not stop a leak --- just hide it. Open cell is very good for residential areas in hot, humid climates and dry temperate climates -- anywhere that has lower humidity inside the structure (via: mechanical cooling), than outside on a normal basis. Closed is more suited for colder roofs and situations that have extreme temp. differentials, such as walk in freezers, or the like. This is what causes the confusion, because construction techniques need to actually be different in cold vs warm climates.
Best answer, you win the internet for today. Open cell for West Coast. Spray in Attic, leave vented and at half the cost of Closed cell. Closed cell for East coast. Spray on bottom of roof deck and floor of attic and be able to "control attic venting from 0-100%". In the winter close it up to keep attic warmer and prevent ice damning. In the summer up it up. Everyone in between you have to tweak it to your climate, or pay the difference. FYI for everyone, search open vs closed cell and find Matt Risingers "water test". It shows open cell does not take water on like a sponge. Over 24hr period of standing water it did not soak up anything. A week (like a flood) is a different story.
With closed cell, one must be very concerned with trapped moisture. The perm rating for closed cell is so low that water will not pass. Imagine using this on the underside of a roof and you get a leak. The water will now sit on the surface between the decking and the insulation. You will get rot and mold. As a mechanical engineer, I typically will call out closed cell only when it is against a surface, such as metal, where it will not cause rot or mold. If using closed cell, you must take extreme care on making sure the surface next to it will stay dry.
if water gets through your roof into open cell foam it won't just dry up, it will soak it up like a sponge and then fall through your ceiling under its own weight.
if the foam is doing its "proper" job as an insulant then by its very nature it shouldn't let heat through so a warm attic won't make it dry out and insulation tha'ts wet will not perform properly as an insulant. Why would you even consider putting something in your house or any other property for that matter that has even a chance of not doing what its suppossed to do. Mark my words this product is going to lead to thousands of claims in the future where it has been installed in the wrong places.
rich darby i disagree. I think you're confusing insulation with absorption. Wet open cell foam can be effected by air without passing it through. Think of wool clothing for example - it keeps it's insulation when wet, but is certainly able to dry. Having closed cell foam behind a condensing wall/roof leak will hold the water between the foam and wall/sheathing allowing for rot and the growth of mold. With open cell allowing the moisture to enter the vented, hot attic space, it should be just like (in theory) throwing a wool sweater into a dryer. In practice it may work out differently depending on application, installation method and how severe a leak you have.
Argument #2 for open cell isn't much of an argument. Closed cell would simply have water lay on top to evaporate, which seems like a much better thing.
what if your winters are snowy cold and your summers are humid hot? which foam would b better closed or open? btw best video so far on explaining what is what
@@getwet1 closed cell is ALWAYS best, open cell is only 1/2 the insulation value but it is NOT 1/2 the price. Then you have all these moisture issues as well.
I’m so confused 🤷🏼♀️ so after video I was thinking closed cell was for me and open cell wasn’t good since I’m building my forever home. But then you said warm climates. So we’re planning a metal home with metal roof and interior wood framing facing south with no trees currently. We want a cathedral ceiling in very large part of home (living space) then above rooms will be a traditional attic. What the best application for me I’m in Texas. I have had different companies tell me different things and what about brands isn’t there different brands?thanks
Finnaly sombody explaining it verry verry Logicly withouth unusefull information bravo!! There will come a proffesional installing 15 cm of open cell foam in my roof on the inside i live in belgium not you let met confusion lol :). Here it is not extreme cold of warm
Steve, if Closed cell is it's own water barrier why would I choose Open cell as barrier in a cooling climate? As in Central Queensland Australia. Thanks for your efforts in putting this video together. Good stuff.
Most UK banks don't want to go near any of this stuff not providing a mortgage if you have it. Was thinking about having this installed on the inside of my roof, my bank said I would have issues with my mortgage if I proceeded with it, so I didn't.
open cell is also good for acoustic barriers...ie, interioir walls and between floors. (Assuming both levels are "conditioned" with semi-constant temps and humidity.)
@@zteaxon7787 well gee, I guess I'll have to take those studios apart, because an ass-hat on UA-cam knows foam is rigid...you do what makes you happy, m'kay?
Fiberglass Particles Can Harm SystemsAs a result, people who handle or are exposed to this can in tiny bits of glass. After a while, those bits can get stuck in a person's lungs, leading to respiratory ailments. Fiberglass exposure can also inflame the eyes and skin, making them itchy.
I recently had an insulation company at the house. They recommended spraying open cell spray foam insulation directly against the bottom of the roof. Based on your video, it seems like you are saying that moisture in the attic could rise up, pass through hte open cell spray foam, and condense on the wood roof sheething. It would be great if you made a video showing when to not use each kind of insulation. Such a video would help me understand if this contractor's advice was good or bad.
I spray open cell on roof's all the time. Completely fine to do. What people don't realize is there is drywall and paint which makes a vapor barrier, and you will never have a problem. I prefer open cell in attics. Been doing over 10 years in Texas. 👍
*79 dead: The Foam Insulation blaze that ripped through the Grenfell Tower, London, causing multiple deaths (79 confirmed / 120+ estimated) has prompted widespread commentary on the Foam Insulation Industry. A Criminal investigation into the Foam Installation Contractors concerned is now taking place. It appears there will be a criminal prosecutions for corporate manslaughter for those concerned whose acts or unsafe products committed the offence. In the case of the Grenfell Tower fire, the most likely prosecution candidates would be the building’s management company, and the insulation contractors and sub-contractors involved in the property refurbishment in which apparently highly flammable foam materials were fitted as insulation.*
From all of the videos I have seen, water vapor is the culprit. If not dried, it will cause mold growth. The mold smells bad and can cause serious health problems. I have spray foamed my house with closed cell and have no smell problems and it did correct leak issues near windows on exterior walls. The people having odor issues have poor planning of where to foam and no mold issues were resolved BEFORE foaming.
I have closed cell in my four year old house. Why would my shingles turn up directly over my rafters? Obviously a temperature differential but the builder, the sub and the supplier have no idea. In Pensacola FL Thanks
I am building a triplex using ICF and open web steel truss joists supporting concrete floors. We plan to spray open cell foam on the underside of each floor once the plumbing is installed. Our goal is to reduce sound transmission. Have you ever heard of open cell being used to control noise?
how can I tell by look if they have uses 'closed' as paid for rather than 'open'? My house has been much colder since rockwool was removed and lapolla foam installed - there are patches where snow does not stay on roof now - Help?
I completely disagree with Steve's theory on Open Cell vs Closed Cell. First and foremost, both foams air seal creating an air barrier. That air barrier created displaces 93% of the moisture drive, yes this goes for open cell. In a warm/cold climate zone, the vapor drive switches with the season, as well as with the day and night cycle. So there is not a constant "warm side" to place a vapor barrier. Rule of thumb is that about a cup of water per square foot in the form of water vapor passes through a structure annually. With open cell foam 93% of this cup of water is deflected due to its air sealing properties, the 7% remaining passes into and out through the foam depending upon vapor drive. Vapor drive is warm to cold. It is much better to have moisture being able to dry, than moisture being trapped. Most homes are built of wood, a porous material. Closed cell is not porous, so if moisture is trapped in the wood it is only allowed to dry the way it got into the wood and not through the closed cell foam. In hot roof assemblies where foam is applied to the underside of the roof sheathing, you do not want the use of closed cell foam because if the roof were to leak you will not know about it until the ply wood sheathing is rotted or soaked from the leak to the soffit. With open cell, the leak will allow water into the foam, and create a wet spot so you will know which location the leak is coming from. Open cell foam is a great product when applied correctly. I shake my head when people are told to install fiberglass with a vapor barrier instead of open cell foam when they can't afford closed cell. So the thought becomes closed cell or fiberglass. When I remove fiberglass, 95% of the time there is signs of moisture even with the vapor barrier.
Would love to get a better idea of what you're explaining. Please do a video showing your analysis and post a link. It's always great to read something but visual presentation can add a lot of credence.
Open cell is preferred for acoustic absorption. Closed cell insulation acts more like a reflector and can transmit some acoustic energy (think of a Newton's Cradle...), while open cell insulation will trap and absorb the energy.
If you use closed cell on a shingle roof traditional method, what happens if you get a leak, Would i notice it? Which one controls sound more effectively since i live by and airport? I live in Chicago area - all climates
If somebody walks over the roof tiles, may this not lead to breaking the foam, creating air gaps where water can come in? And how about the incredible heat in the tiles when summer sun burns on them? I think 80°C could be reached easily.
Depends. Do you already have a vapor barrier on the exterior of the house? You can use closed cell any time. I would only install open cell if you have a vapor barrier installed on the exterior of the building. I’ve been spraying foam for 10 years.
Oh man! Great Great video, this is not my specialty or profession and I understood everything. But I do have a question for you, what will you recommend for weathers like Canada (Quebec) where during the winter we can get -35 degrees Celsius or even less, but during the summer is completely the opposite, we can get +35 degrees Celsius. If you can give me your opinion, will be really great! Thanks again.
Open or closed cell? I have a wood-framed flat roof on my garage. Last summer I stripped of the old tar n gravel, added 3/8" ply and torched on rolled sheets of asphalt. Now I'm thinking I'd like to insulate the inside. I've heard pros and cons for both open and closed cell so I'd like an unbiased opinion. Can you help me?
I am considering spray foam in the attic of a 4/12 pitch roof about four blocks from the beach on Florida's East coast. Very hot and humid. No longer a threat from tree damage to the asphalt shingles. Quoted by a professional for open cell foam for 3,500 bucks for 28 squares of attic (1,500 sqft living space). Would I be better off with open cell or closed cell against the decking in the attic? I'd like to completely seal the house. He had me concerned about a shingle leak and being able to detect it over closed cell retaining that moisture. Thank you.
You don’t need 3 inches of closed cell to get water and air barrier. Usually only an inch will accomplish this and the R6 rating is misleading as an air tight and water tight space will stay warmer and cooler depending on outside conditions.
had some insulation fitters saying they can remove the old attic floor traditional insulation and spray open cell instead on the roof. Should they spray it on the floor or roof?
Very good afternoon my dear who recommends me for the installation of this foam in container house on the inner side and how many inches should I leave the thick walls I live heredia costa rica I want to contrir with some containers of marine use to resiclarlo I do not know what to put open or closed and how many inches would be recommended for the parades thanks for your help
for a container, I'd suggest at least 4" of closed cell, with a very good cooling system and ventilation. I'd also suggest for Costa Rica a secondary "roof" over the container, to block direct sunlight. Even a 1.5" riser with sheet metal will lower the interior temperature considerably. Best of luck on your project.
I live in the tropical country where there is no winter, temperatures goes down only until 15°C and most of the time is hot up to like 35-50°C and heavy rains during monsoon. Which one would you recommend?
I have a metal roof woodshop I want to keep the heat in from a woodstove. I don't care about moisture because the rest of the building is block and very water permeable. I'm thinking open cell would be good for me.
lets say there's a 2x4 vertical, exterior stud wall, placed up against a 8" thick existing brick wall, in a 100 year old house. Closed cell is used but there's no need to completely fill the whole wall cavity, so the sides of the studs are foamed in then several inches of foam is laid in between the studs. And the stud wall is dry walled or thin coated with plaster veneer. Water vapor can migrate through the dry wall. Will it condense in the wall cavity? If so then there's going to be a problem, mold could grow on the back side of the wall, the condensed water vapor would collect at the bottom of the cavity and work itself in the floor. Does this all mean that a vapor barrier should be used on all vertical exterior walls? What about the area between the joists between floors, water vapor travels up thru the ceiling, where some it can come into contact with the cold side of the foam and condense? Or will the vapor just keep traveling "up"?
Look up a guy on UA-cam that has the build show, Matt Risinger. He builds custom homes here in Austin, and has done just that. He has some real good info on building a house.
You can do whatever you want, if you spray two inches of closed on the inner/lower and outer/upper (joist) after filling the 4” in between with open cell or even packing peanuts it would save money and insulate further
You're right, there's no air movement through open cell, but there can be (usually is) vapour movement. It's vapour movement that causes most condensation. Airborne water vapour can travel through open cell foam. That's why it's called "open" cell. Open cell has it's uses, but closed cell is the one you can trust to stop vapour migration and condensation in most cases. Thanks for watching. Steve
in a cavity you can get what is known as interstitial consensation, this is where condensation forms between the inside of the outside surface and the insulation material , if the insulation is open cell foam it will soak up this condensation and over time create damp, if you use closed cell foam which is inherently water resistant this problem is eliminated from the equation.
This stuff traps moisture against timber no matter what. In the UK we've seen entire roof structures destroyed through the use of this stuff. We tell all our clients to avoid totally. Any sprayed foam roof in the UK is automatically condemmed by surveyors.
Peter Ward only in the presence of moisture, if its installed/applied properly, it (closed cell) will adhere to the surfaces, always use a space maintaining panel against the roof sheathing to allow air movement from the soffit to the ridge vent, even if there aren’t ventilated soffits or a ridge vent, it allows that option, as well as a place for water intrusion to escape, and therefore be noticeable as it drips from the soffit, which rafter bay the leak is in, so it can be easily and immediately repaired. As with anything, it’s all in the knowledge, competency, foresight, preparation and attention to detail by the contractor and technician, that make or break a potentially unprecedented breakthrough, and innovation.
my name is mark and i have been spray foam for 13 years now and u would use open cell in ur house so it can still bearth because using closed cell will seal ur house up to much use close cell on polebarn and basement and opencell is good for cool weather
It’s a great business to be in if you like being crazy busy for 3 months and starving to death the rest of the year. How are your mechanic skills? You’ll need them. Any experience diagnosing electrical problems, you’ll need that too. Like working with hot chemicals that constantly plug up your gun? It’s not as plug and play as they promised. How are you with fluid dynamics? That can be the difference between a good job and leaving a toxic mess in someone’s dream home. And then there is always the joy of using a chemical call isocyanate that is highly reactive with moisture and loves to crystallize on the shaves of the pumps and in your lines raising hell with your equipment and ruining your day. So step 1: be a really good mechanic, step 2: be smart and go fix cars, trucks or tractors instead.
So open cell would be a good idea for between floors of a condo? Where there is a neighbor above and below me... Open cell would be better between the bathrooms and kitchens between floors???
I do not understand ... isn't the created foam always closed cells? How do you create open cells? If by cutting? How? Isn't it then only open at the surface? Show us open and closed cells please.
The disagreement in this comment section over what should be factual information is stunning. The absolutely destitute state of the contracting/construction industry is nuts. I've asked 4 or 5 handymen-types about basic things about my house and I get a wildly different opinion every time. It's no wonder house nightmares are so common. Everyone you talk to claims they've been doing "X" for 20+ years and the other guys have it all wrong. Meanwhile, homeowners are caught in the crossfire with all the bills and stress and hackjobs. It's really depressing because so many things in a house can cost well into 5 digits to fix if done improperly. Not knocking your video, by the way. Just sad how hard it is to do the right things for your home.
Can anyone help me? We just paid 3k to close cell spray our small basement. It was sprayed directly onto our stone and mortar walls and cement/plaster walls. Today I took a small pin throughout the walls and just checked to see how thick it was and it is about a quarter of an inch thick throughout. Some spots didn't adhere to the wall. I can push off them and one section of the wall is soft. It's been a week. The rest is hard. Can someone give me any guidance here? I'm concerned it's not thick enough and was sprayed wrong. We live in Pennsylvania. Thank you.
Good Morning! Sorry to hear about the trouble you're having. It sounds to me like you got a bad application - or at least it's bad in some spots. Properly applied foam will stick strongly to the wall. Have you contacted the spray contractor? What is his position on the situation? Please keep me posted on how things go. Email me at steve@stevemaxwell.ca to continue the conversation. Bye for now, Steve
1, the contractor shorted you, and didn't spray what he should have. 2, when spraying the walls, if they had any moisture content or if the walls were not warm, the foam will not stick. And i guarantee its one of the 2. He should have had a heaters down there to heat and pull moisture off the brick..
Very concise & easy to understand. I did engineering many years ago & when you brought up "R value" it peekd my interest to redo insulation in my home.
Im in commercial construction, been a superintendent for 25 years. The bottom line is to prevent ANY water or air into the structure, by waterproofing, damp proofing, caulking, vapor barrier, etc. As far as insulation, closed cell is the way to go. Have you ever looked at an older home up in the attic, and notice the batt insulation is only 2" thick (or less)? The insulation breaks down and gets into your HVAC system, and you get to breathe that lovely stuff in. Id advise consulting with a commercial builder. Most home builders our a joke, they take way too many short cuts. I hope this helps some one.
@Just think that will cause water to condensate in the old insulation leading to many problems.
Thanks for this wonderful explanation. We are completing a camper van conversion this year, and I just needed confirmation that the full closed cell foam insulation with the false floor installed is the right move, because so many people are using Havelock wool. We may add the more eco-friendly cork wood on top, but we’re definitely choosing the closed cell foam.
Thank you! Your calm and methodical explanation were easy to understand and the illustrations were very effective. Nice job!
I am considering adding foam insulation to my unfinished basement. Your video is quite timely and offered clear explanations and insights! Thank you. I live in the northern reaches of NYS, in the North Country and man is it COLD right now!
Alan
please let me know how that work out for you.
I sprayed my basement walls closed cell ..field stone ledge basement. 2inches thick. Freezing cold of the north. Even when its -18 degrees or more. My basements stays above 80 degrees.. Its warmer then the rest of the house
Thankyou Mr. Maxwell, for taking the time to explain the differences.
I have recently been trying to find an explanation that makes sense to me, and here it is!
Much appreciated.
there is one more advantage of open cell spray foam that you did not mention and that is that the open cell is better at absorbing sound... And close cell foam is harder and reflects sound..
Just throwing my 2cents in ;)
Sound absorption is a question of mass. The same volume of closed cell with be far better than open cell.
@@reddog418 Sound transfer is also part of that, as well as frequency of the sounds. Tests have shown otherwise: www.stellrr.com/comparing-sound-attenuation-insulation-materials/#comment-29
The open cell doesn't allow the transfer of sound through the cell wall structure for sounds between 100 Hz and 4000 Hz, for example.
@@reddog418 actually not. Closed cell has a hard surface so sound waved don’t penetrate into the foam. The will however cause the entire mass the reverberate and transfer the sound to the other side. Closed cell is quieter than nothing, but not as much as open cell. I’ve had hands on experience with if for the last 10 years as I install both. Most of what I do is closed cell.
Steve, Thank you for the informative video. I am a spray foam contractor in northern Wisconsin and have been for 18 years. We offer both open cell and closed cell products and have hundreds of projects sprayed with both open and closed cell foams. Both types are a certified air barrier (4 inches for open cell and at 2 inches for closed cell) that separate warm air from cold air thus eliminating condensation.Mold can not form unless it has moisture and a food source to grow. Both foams effectively stop this process. Both foams also prevent dust and allergens from entering your building. It is true that at 2 inches or more of closed cell foam creates its own vapor barrier and that is a plus. When using open cell you need a minimum of 3 mil plastic for a vapor barrier. However if you are installing drywall over your insulation you can use a vapor barrier primer/paint over your drywall instead of plastic underneath and it does an excellent job.I prefer closed cell but I certainly don't have a problem using open cell. When used correctly both foams are infinitely better than batt or blown insulations for many reasons. Most notably the 40% to 50% savings on your heating and cooling bills. There are many variables to consider when using spray foam but at the end of the day they are both well worth the investment. If anyone has questions feel free to call Jon at Northern Foam Insulators at 715-922-0246. Thanks.
This is all good info, if insulating a vaulted ceiling ( 2 x 6's ) of a screened porch in order to enclose the room, which would you use? It occasionally gets mildew now as it's open and in humid SC. It's just sheathed with 3/4" and shingles but would like to insulate ceiling and put bead board over insulation. And does it need venting?
@@pcdubya if theres any doubt in your mind, use closed cell. Closed cell is waterproof and mold resistant.
Great presentation. So useful to get down to the principles as these can be applied universally.
I'm planning to spray foam my van. Mainly to stop condensation from forming on the inside. I live near Vancouver Canada. You mentioned that it is important to achieve an impossible amount inside a van of 3" of close cell to prevent water vapour from migrating.
if you are just doing your van to stop condensation then 25mm or 1" will be plenty , i have sprayed hundreds of vans and steel boats over the 30 years i have been spraying closed cell foam , hope this helps.
Do more reasearch, I used great stuff which is closed cell foam on my truck and it rusted out everything really bad. It rusted from the foam side out. It flat ruined my truck.
Hi, I work as a field inspector for the biggest foundation company in the country.
Tip: Only use this in vented attics or on old basement walls made of Field stone/River rocks - it should be treated as a last resort.
2 inch foam board has twice the R value and is your best bet for almost any project.
NEVER USE THIS ON WOOD REGULARLY EXPOSED TO HIGH LEVELS OF MOISTURE.
It's also good for steel pole barns.
“This” being what?....Closed or Open?
We just had closed cell sprayed below floor (crawlspace) to protect new oak hardwood floors from cupping. Above ground is fiberglass batt but below is spray foam.
I was told closed cell will also help stop insects from crawling inside from below.
Not sure if this is true but I heard Close cell under subfloor also blocks Radon.
Must be applied by well trained installer, if too thick toxic fumes will never go away.
To second 'BlueBird's' question - when you say to never use "This" on wood. Which foam are you talking about?
I've sprayed foams for over 25 years. The claims from closed cell proponents *(which includes this guy) about OC do not "hold water" . It is not the function of insulation to control HUMIDITY inside the structure, let alone stop a leak! If you are getting liquid water or dewpoint under your roof, DON'T BLAME THE INSULATION.
-That is the function of the roof integrity, air tightness of the building, and the HVAC system, (no , it's not ventilation, which only depressurizes your structure and is immediately is replaced by humid makeup air from outside.)
The key to controlling moisture dewpoint occurrence is to link your attic to the conditioned space, not outside air.
Open or closed, both function better than fiberglass because they block the intrusion of outside air, and do a tremendous job of blocking convection within the cavity.
Open cell has a very low porosity , and gravity will allow a leak to show itself, but nothing like the fiberous insulations. Closed has zero porosity, but will not stop a leak --- just hide it.
Open cell is very good for residential areas in hot, humid climates and dry temperate climates -- anywhere that has lower humidity inside the structure (via: mechanical cooling), than outside on a normal basis.
Closed is more suited for colder roofs and situations that have extreme temp. differentials, such as walk in freezers, or the like. This is what causes the confusion, because construction techniques need to actually be different in cold vs warm climates.
Best answer, you win the internet for today.
Open cell for West Coast. Spray in Attic, leave vented and at half the cost of Closed cell.
Closed cell for East coast. Spray on bottom of roof deck and floor of attic and be able to "control attic venting from 0-100%". In the winter close it up to keep attic warmer and prevent ice damning. In the summer up it up.
Everyone in between you have to tweak it to your climate, or pay the difference.
FYI for everyone, search open vs closed cell and find Matt Risingers "water test". It shows open cell does not take water on like a sponge. Over 24hr period of standing water it did not soak up anything. A week (like a flood) is a different story.
1 min in and my questions are answered. looking forward to the next 5 mins of fun facts
With closed cell, one must be very concerned with trapped moisture. The perm rating for closed cell is so low that water will not pass. Imagine using this on the underside of a roof and you get a leak. The water will now sit on the surface between the decking and the insulation. You will get rot and mold. As a mechanical engineer, I typically will call out closed cell only when it is against a surface, such as metal, where it will not cause rot or mold. If using closed cell, you must take extreme care on making sure the surface next to it will stay dry.
maybe that's why you do not seal the joists just the cavities. if water goes in, the joists absorb it and directs it down.
if water gets through your roof into open cell foam it won't just dry up, it will soak it up like a sponge and then fall through your ceiling under its own weight.
meaning the foam will never dry out? Why not, it will certainly get very warm in the attic in the summer?
Bingo, and since it is a sponge and weak by nature , it can be catastrophic
if the foam is doing its "proper" job as an insulant then by its very nature it shouldn't let heat through so a warm attic won't make it dry out and insulation tha'ts wet will not perform properly as an insulant.
Why would you even consider putting something in your house or any other property for that matter that has even a chance of not doing what its suppossed to do. Mark my words this product is going to lead to thousands of claims in the future where it has been installed in the wrong places.
What would you recommend instead? I'm about to insulate my house. Attic and crawl space - middle Tennessee.
rich darby i disagree. I think you're confusing insulation with absorption. Wet open cell foam can be effected by air without passing it through. Think of wool clothing for example - it keeps it's insulation when wet, but is certainly able to dry.
Having closed cell foam behind a condensing wall/roof leak will hold the water between the foam and wall/sheathing allowing for rot and the growth of mold. With open cell allowing the moisture to enter the vented, hot attic space, it should be just like (in theory) throwing a wool sweater into a dryer.
In practice it may work out differently depending on application, installation method and how severe a leak you have.
Argument #2 for open cell isn't much of an argument. Closed cell would simply have water lay on top to evaporate, which seems like a much better thing.
what if your winters are snowy cold and your summers are humid hot? which foam would b better closed or open? btw best video so far on explaining what is what
this is my question too
I need that too
Nony 714 closed if its done right
closed cell would be best
@@getwet1 closed cell is ALWAYS best, open cell is only 1/2 the insulation value but it is NOT 1/2 the price. Then you have all these moisture issues as well.
I’m so confused 🤷🏼♀️ so after video I was thinking closed cell was for me and open cell wasn’t good since I’m building my forever home. But then you said warm climates. So we’re planning a metal home with metal roof and interior wood framing facing south with no trees currently. We want a cathedral ceiling in very large part of home (living space) then above rooms will be a traditional attic. What the best application for me I’m in Texas. I have had different companies tell me different things and what about brands isn’t there different brands?thanks
its very easy to understand, thanks for ur video
Finnaly sombody explaining it verry verry
Logicly withouth unusefull information bravo!!
There will come a proffesional installing 15 cm of open cell foam in my roof on the inside i live in belgium not you let met confusion lol :).
Here it is not extreme cold of warm
Thank you! This helps with vehicle sound insulation too! You rock
Steve, if Closed cell is it's own water barrier why would I choose Open cell as barrier in a cooling climate? As in Central Queensland Australia. Thanks for your efforts in putting this video together. Good stuff.
Its half the price.
Your home should have a vapor barrier on the outside of the sheathing. You will be fine with either. Closed cell is just better.
What about using open cell foam for acoustic treatment? Seems like a popular application.
That is one of the main uses of open cell insulation, a good sound deadener.
super, thanks for this systematical instruction.
Thank you! This was so helpful.
Most UK banks don't want to go near any of this stuff not providing a mortgage if you have it.
Was thinking about having this installed on the inside of my roof, my bank said I would have issues with my mortgage if I proceeded with it, so I didn't.
open cell is also good for acoustic barriers...ie, interioir walls and between floors. (Assuming both levels are "conditioned" with semi-constant temps and humidity.)
That's bullshit open cell foam is also rigid and transmits sound.
@@zteaxon7787 well gee, I guess I'll have to take those studios apart, because an ass-hat on UA-cam knows foam is rigid...you do what makes you happy, m'kay?
Thank you for the video. You did a great job explaining.
Fiberglass Particles Can Harm SystemsAs a result, people who handle or are exposed to this can in tiny bits of glass. After a while, those bits can get stuck in a person's lungs, leading to respiratory ailments. Fiberglass exposure can also inflame the eyes and skin, making them itchy.
Brilliant video very very informative closed cell is the way to go for me
Excellent video and great information. Many thanks!
Can you spray closed cell directly on roofing in an attic or do you need a space for air to vent from soffits through to ridge vents?
Air space is recommended
I wish your voice was reading my audio book lol it’s so goddamn soothing. Fray Spoam 4 life!!
You forgot to mention that closed cell is class A fire rated at for 1 hour in a typical 4” the wall.
So what is the best insulation material to use inside a campervan to keep it warm during the winter and cool in summer?
Definitelt closed cell PUR
What does Mike Holmes recommend? I'll bet I know what he recommends.
great information thank you
I recently had an insulation company at the house. They recommended spraying open cell spray foam insulation directly against the bottom of the roof. Based on your video, it seems like you are saying that moisture in the attic could rise up, pass through hte open cell spray foam, and condense on the wood roof sheething.
It would be great if you made a video showing when to not use each kind of insulation. Such a video would help me understand if this contractor's advice was good or bad.
I spray open cell on roof's all the time. Completely fine to do. What people don't realize is there is drywall and paint which makes a vapor barrier, and you will never have a problem. I prefer open cell in attics. Been doing over 10 years in Texas. 👍
*79 dead: The Foam Insulation blaze that ripped through the Grenfell Tower, London, causing multiple deaths (79 confirmed / 120+ estimated) has prompted widespread commentary on the Foam Insulation Industry. A Criminal investigation into the Foam Installation Contractors concerned is now taking place. It appears there will be a criminal prosecutions for corporate manslaughter for those concerned whose acts or unsafe products committed the offence. In the case of the Grenfell Tower fire, the most likely prosecution candidates would be the building’s management company, and the insulation contractors and sub-contractors involved in the property refurbishment in which apparently highly flammable foam materials were fitted as insulation.*
Thank you
From all of the videos I have seen, water vapor is the culprit. If not dried, it will cause mold growth. The mold smells bad and can cause serious health problems. I have spray foamed my house with closed cell and have no smell problems and it did correct leak issues near windows on exterior walls. The people having odor issues have poor planning of where to foam and no mold issues were resolved BEFORE foaming.
So open cell is better in hot climates of Southern California. What would be the insulation between 16” on center 2X4s??
I have closed cell in my four year old house. Why would my shingles turn up directly over my rafters? Obviously a temperature differential but the builder, the sub and the supplier have no idea.
In Pensacola FL
Thanks
Is it true that you can't spray foam directly to metal roofs?
Int TN where I plan to build my bardno they spray 2in closed cell is that enough to get the vapour barrier?
I am building a triplex using ICF and open web steel truss joists supporting concrete floors. We plan to spray open cell foam on the underside of each floor once the plumbing is installed. Our goal is to reduce sound transmission. Have you ever heard of open cell being used to control noise?
look up soundproofing with spray foam(Dr.energysaver)he uses open cell for under floor between living space and garage
Yes it will work well. And also will never sag and be a home to rodents.
What about closed cell applied to the roof decking in a non-vented attic? Hot climate. Similar to the first picture you showed.
how can I tell by look if they have uses 'closed' as paid for rather than 'open'? My house has been much colder since rockwool was removed and lapolla foam installed - there are patches where snow does not stay on roof now - Help?
If you can drive your finger into it, it's open cell. Closed cell, if you try hard enough you will break your finger.
I completely disagree with Steve's theory on Open Cell vs Closed Cell. First and foremost, both foams air seal creating an air barrier. That air barrier created displaces 93% of the moisture drive, yes this goes for open cell. In a warm/cold climate zone, the vapor drive switches with the season, as well as with the day and night cycle. So there is not a constant "warm side" to place a vapor barrier. Rule of thumb is that about a cup of water per square foot in the form of water vapor passes through a structure annually. With open cell foam 93% of this cup of water is deflected due to its air sealing properties, the 7% remaining passes into and out through the foam depending upon vapor drive. Vapor drive is warm to cold. It is much better to have moisture being able to dry, than moisture being trapped. Most homes are built of wood, a porous material. Closed cell is not porous, so if moisture is trapped in the wood it is only allowed to dry the way it got into the wood and not through the closed cell foam. In hot roof assemblies where foam is applied to the underside of the roof sheathing, you do not want the use of closed cell foam because if the roof were to leak you will not know about it until the ply wood sheathing is rotted or soaked from the leak to the soffit. With open cell, the leak will allow water into the foam, and create a wet spot so you will know which location the leak is coming from. Open cell foam is a great product when applied correctly. I shake my head when people are told to install fiberglass with a vapor barrier instead of open cell foam when they can't afford closed cell. So the thought becomes closed cell or fiberglass. When I remove fiberglass, 95% of the time there is signs of moisture even with the vapor barrier.
Would love to get a better idea of what you're explaining. Please do a video showing your analysis and post a link. It's always great to read something but visual presentation can add a lot of credence.
Very thorough explanation.
I’m gonna work in this so is why I’m here learning something 😂
hahaha same here dude
Is one better as a sound barrier? Based on what I’ve learned from your video, my guess would be closed
Open cell is preferred for acoustic absorption. Closed cell insulation acts more like a reflector and can transmit some acoustic energy (think of a Newton's Cradle...), while open cell insulation will trap and absorb the energy.
Philip Kloppers dead on. open cell is great for acoustic sound reduction. closed cell may actually amplify sound and make it worse.
If you use closed cell on a shingle roof traditional method, what happens if you get a leak, Would i notice it? Which one controls sound more effectively since i live by and airport? I live in Chicago area - all climates
Great video!
So what's better for a mobile home any desert environment?
If somebody walks over the roof tiles, may this not lead to breaking the foam, creating air gaps where water can come in? And how about the incredible heat in the tiles when summer sun burns on them? I think 80°C could be reached easily.
I live in a very humid, hot area, I have a brick home with a metal roof. which would better for me open or closed?
Depends. Do you already have a vapor barrier on the exterior of the house? You can use closed cell any time. I would only install open cell if you have a vapor barrier installed on the exterior of the building. I’ve been spraying foam for 10 years.
Poly is only needed in very few locations. Depends on location
Love the graphics. Really clear information. Thank you.
Thanks 👍👍👍👍
great video
Oh man! Great Great video, this is not my specialty or profession and I understood everything. But I do have a question for you, what will you recommend for weathers like Canada (Quebec) where during the winter we can get -35 degrees Celsius or even less, but during the summer is completely the opposite, we can get +35 degrees Celsius. If you can give me your opinion, will be really great! Thanks again.
Open or closed cell?
I have a wood-framed flat roof on my garage. Last summer I stripped of the old tar n gravel, added 3/8" ply and torched on rolled sheets of asphalt. Now I'm thinking I'd like to insulate the inside. I've heard pros and cons for both open and closed cell so I'd like an unbiased opinion.
Can you help me?
I am considering spray foam in the attic of a 4/12 pitch roof about four blocks from the beach on Florida's East coast. Very hot and humid. No longer a threat from tree damage to the asphalt shingles. Quoted by a professional for open cell foam for 3,500 bucks for 28 squares of attic (1,500 sqft living space). Would I be better off with open cell or closed cell against the decking in the attic? I'd like to completely seal the house. He had me concerned about a shingle leak and being able to detect it over closed cell retaining that moisture. Thank you.
Great!!
What kind of cell are the spray foam cans , from home depot ?
Great video! Quick question, what type of foam is in the cans? Like Great Stuff... Is that stuff open or closed cell? It never says on the can.
Closed cell
@@RickGrimes807 I don’t think the answer is that simple as it isn’t even remotely similar other than being polyurethane.
@@christophergruenwald5054 I strictly answered the question as to whether canned foam is closed or open cell. I didn't claim the products are similar.
You don’t need 3 inches of closed cell to get water and air barrier. Usually only an inch will accomplish this and the R6 rating is misleading as an air tight and water tight space will stay warmer and cooler depending on outside conditions.
Looks like to me close cell is better in heat or cold weather. Except for the roofing open cell would be better on celling in warmer climates.
had some insulation fitters saying they can remove the old attic floor traditional insulation and spray open cell instead on the roof. Should they spray it on the floor or roof?
Very good afternoon my dear who recommends me for the installation of this foam in container house on the inner side and how many inches should I leave the thick walls I live heredia costa rica I want to contrir with some containers of marine use to resiclarlo
I do not know what to put open or closed and how many inches would be recommended for the parades
thanks for your help
for a container, I'd suggest at least 4" of closed cell, with a very good cooling system and ventilation. I'd also suggest for Costa Rica a secondary "roof" over the container, to block direct sunlight. Even a 1.5" riser with sheet metal will lower the interior temperature considerably. Best of luck on your project.
Which form of cell structure is best for noise reduction? Open or Closed?
Open. Sound travels better through dense materials.
I live in the tropical country where there is no winter, temperatures goes down only until 15°C and most of the time is hot up to like 35-50°C and heavy rains during monsoon. Which one would you recommend?
Use which ever you can afford. Open cell is better than any other insulation. And closed cell is even better.
Nice video!
Who had good or bad experiences with this? In which situation? Please describe clearly.
I have a metal roof woodshop I want to keep the heat in from a woodstove. I don't care about moisture because the rest of the building is block and very water permeable. I'm thinking open cell would be good for me.
Only if you want the moisture to pass through the foam and condense within it on the steel in winter.
Noise control too?
lets say there's a 2x4 vertical, exterior stud wall, placed up against a 8" thick existing brick wall, in a 100 year old house. Closed cell is used but there's no need to completely fill the whole wall cavity, so the sides of the studs are foamed in then several inches of foam is laid in between the studs. And the stud wall is dry walled or thin coated with plaster veneer. Water vapor can migrate through the dry wall. Will it condense in the wall cavity? If so then there's going to be a problem, mold could grow on the back side of the wall, the condensed water vapor would collect at the bottom of the cavity and work itself in the floor.
Does this all mean that a vapor barrier should be used on all vertical exterior walls? What about the area between the joists between floors, water vapor travels up thru the ceiling, where some it can come into contact with the cold side of the foam and condense? Or will the vapor just keep traveling "up"?
Can you spray open cell over closed cell?
I want to know this too
What benefit are you hoping you would get by that?
Look up a guy on UA-cam that has the build show, Matt Risinger. He builds custom homes here in Austin, and has done just that. He has some real good info on building a house.
You can do whatever you want, if you spray two inches of closed on the inner/lower and outer/upper (joist) after filling the 4” in between with open cell or even packing peanuts it would save money and insulate further
Well presented
Cheers,
Is there a down side to using closed cell in a hot climate?
Nope. Only positives.
When you insulate a cavity with open cell, there is no air movement. No warm coming to cold, therefore there is no moisture.
You're right, there's no air movement through open cell, but there can be (usually is) vapour movement. It's vapour movement that causes most condensation. Airborne water vapour can travel through open cell foam. That's why it's called "open" cell. Open cell has it's uses, but closed cell is the one you can trust to stop vapour migration and condensation in most cases.
Thanks for watching.
Steve
in a cavity you can get what is known as interstitial consensation, this is where condensation forms between the inside of the outside surface and the insulation material , if the insulation is open cell foam it will soak up this condensation and over time create damp, if you use closed cell foam which is inherently water resistant this problem is eliminated from the equation.
Is this video originally done in Britain because we dont use Celsius or spell vapor with a u.
Canadian???
Never use open cell in humid environments
This stuff traps moisture against timber no matter what. In the UK we've seen entire roof structures destroyed through the use of this stuff. We tell all our clients to avoid totally. Any sprayed foam roof in the UK is automatically condemmed by surveyors.
Blame the roof ,not the foam! Is it your flooring guys fault if your plumber didn't seal all of your plumbing and ruined your floors?!
Peter Ward only in the presence of moisture, if its installed/applied properly, it (closed cell) will adhere to the surfaces, always use a space maintaining panel against the roof sheathing to allow air movement from the soffit to the ridge vent, even if there aren’t ventilated soffits or a ridge vent, it allows that option, as well as a place for water intrusion to escape, and therefore be noticeable as it drips from the soffit, which rafter bay the leak is in, so it can be easily and immediately repaired.
As with anything, it’s all in the knowledge, competency, foresight, preparation and attention to detail by the contractor and technician, that make or break a potentially unprecedented breakthrough, and innovation.
btw. excellent presentation. Thanks.
2” closed cell 6” open cell over it. I been seeing it a lot so far.
do you think the open cell foam would work on car door to seal up the rain water? it needs to be spongy the way I see it..
my name is mark and i have been spray foam for 13 years now and u would use open cell in ur house so it can still bearth because using closed cell will seal ur house up to much use close cell on polebarn and basement and opencell is good for cool weather
Great video, thanks for the great explanation
I'm thinking about looking into this type business, any recommendations for proper guidance; where does one start?
It’s a great business to be in if you like being crazy busy for 3 months and starving to death the rest of the year. How are your mechanic skills? You’ll need them. Any experience diagnosing electrical problems, you’ll need that too. Like working with hot chemicals that constantly plug up your gun? It’s not as plug and play as they promised. How are you with fluid dynamics? That can be the difference between a good job and leaving a toxic mess in someone’s dream home. And then there is always the joy of using a chemical call isocyanate that is highly reactive with moisture and loves to crystallize on the shaves of the pumps and in your lines raising hell with your equipment and ruining your day. So step 1: be a really good mechanic, step 2: be smart and go fix cars, trucks or tractors instead.
So open cell would be a good idea for between floors of a condo? Where there is a neighbor above and below me... Open cell would be better between the bathrooms and kitchens between floors???
Open cell, also there is a special material you can apply to the joists before drywall that will help reduce sound transmission through the wall.
Very informative video, thank you!
But.. where is -20 C (-4F) to + 20 C (69F) typical of winter temperatures where closed cell would be warrented?
Joanne Stevens The +20 C is the temperature inside the heated home. -20 is the outside temperature.
@@ronh9384 those are warm winters.
I do not understand ... isn't the created foam always closed cells? How do you create open cells? If by cutting? How? Isn't it then only open at the surface? Show us open and closed cells please.
FYI, air carries 10x as much water when compared to vapor. Focus on air first and water vapor dead last
Thanks Robert, that's a great tidbit of info!
Great Video - Question - How can I tell if my insulation (already installed) IS OPEN OR CLOSED???
Push on it with your fingers.....you'll know immediately as closed cell won't indent.
The disagreement in this comment section over what should be factual information is stunning. The absolutely destitute state of the contracting/construction industry is nuts. I've asked 4 or 5 handymen-types about basic things about my house and I get a wildly different opinion every time. It's no wonder house nightmares are so common. Everyone you talk to claims they've been doing "X" for 20+ years and the other guys have it all wrong. Meanwhile, homeowners are caught in the crossfire with all the bills and stress and hackjobs. It's really depressing because so many things in a house can cost well into 5 digits to fix if done improperly.
Not knocking your video, by the way. Just sad how hard it is to do the right things for your home.
thank you most informative for me a novice
Can anyone help me? We just paid 3k to close cell spray our small basement. It was sprayed directly onto our stone and mortar walls and cement/plaster walls. Today I took a small pin throughout the walls and just checked to see how thick it was and it is about a quarter of an inch thick throughout. Some spots didn't adhere to the wall. I can push off them and one section of the wall is soft. It's been a week. The rest is hard. Can someone give me any guidance here? I'm concerned it's not thick enough and was sprayed wrong. We live in Pennsylvania. Thank you.
Good Morning!
Sorry to hear about the trouble you're having. It sounds to me like you got a bad application - or at least it's bad in some spots. Properly applied foam will stick strongly to the wall. Have you contacted the spray contractor? What is his position on the situation? Please keep me posted on how things go. Email me at steve@stevemaxwell.ca to continue the conversation.
Bye for now,
Steve
1, the contractor shorted you, and didn't spray what he should have.
2, when spraying the walls, if they had any moisture content or if the walls were not warm, the foam will not stick. And i guarantee its one of the 2. He should have had a heaters down there to heat and pull moisture off the brick..
Can you us close cell foam under a house in texas
Yes. But only closed cell. When applied 1" or thicker it becomes a vapor barrier.