Perfect! My printer is way too loud! Excellent work on this video! Lots of great info and thanks for all the links! You clearly put in a lot of time prepping, filming, and post-production. I'm subscribing.
one thing i can advice you when silencing the ender 3 v2: design a semi-open housing for the mainboard and psu. Start with replacing the 4 rubber feet by 4 squashball feet. The squashball feet rises the printer and silences the overall sound from printing and fans in the frame. Once the printer has about 40 mm extra space underneath it, you have room to be creative and design a new housing for the mainboard to install a Noctua 8. Also for the psu, a semi open box for placing a Noctua 8. I designed a dozen cases to fit some dc buck converters and the two Noctua 80X80X25's. The final design i made was semi-open. so walls and floors of the 2 cases semi-open. It resulted in fear for forgetting to plug in the psu fan, but it was plugged in. The psu temperature stays way lower due to the open housing. The closed psu case with new noctua 8 was quit but it still needed to cool a lot. The same case with open see through structure is the final stage.
Good advice, currently my power supply is open, I didn’t put the original shroud back on. The motherboard area is semi open with the brass standoffs I added, but the overall bottom of the printer is pretty close to the table. I will look into some taller squash-ball feet like you recommended! Thanks!
@@MikeJones-mf2rt you mean the squashball feet? It basically replaces the stock rubber feet of the printer. Its a printed part, looks like an egg in a egg holder. The egg is the squashball and the egg holder has to be printed. The holder has a connection to slide in the extrusion profile. Pull the frontcovers off of the extrusion profile and pull the glued rubber stock feet off to slide in the new upside down bowl with the squashball. Or you just open your browser, go to google and type in the searchbar “why cant i fint answers myself”. You’ll find some good results😉. Or not
Great video! I wish these companies would just put out models for a slight premium that have quiet fans to begin with and save us all the trouble of fixing their problems. I’m currently going through tuning a few CR-6 SEs into sounding a little less like a jet engine taking off in my workshop, so this video is extremely useful.
LOL. It drives up the printer costs and they would not be competitively priced anymore, that's why, it's very clear and makes sense. Even if they offered it with a quieter fan option few would by the same printer and a significant price increase, that's why. So now you buy the printer dirt cheap because it's good and cheap, then pay to upgrade it after you own it make it quieter and better....
@@airgliderz So you would rather pay a normal price plus another $10 a fan and an hour or two of your time or just another $5 a fan for a better setup from the factory? Seems rather silly.
Yes they are a high volume low cost manufacturer and with high volumes and multiple distributors buying and stocking from them so they cannot have too many options. Perhaps they could through a feature like this in with a pro version, but maybe there isn’t enough consumer demand to make up for the cost.
@@DaveDDD clearly are you blind manufacturing costs and economics? A $5 part cost increase in reality ups the price of the printer double and more $5 the $5 part so it is profitable/pays the bills and labor costs, all good things to stay in business and be successfully stay in business, make a profit and to be able to pay your employees, bills, manufacturing costs, maintenance, rent, utilities, and taxes, simple basic economics 101.
On the Ender 3 I swapped out the fans, the PSU fan was replaced with an 80mm - it's still like 10db quieter lol. Also worth mentioning: eliminating fan guards reduce the noise significantly as well (if it's a close mounted guard). I have no idea what people need a fan guard for, so I got rid of em.
Best, cheapest, easiest, fastest way to silence the 3D-printer: Build a massive wooden housing (with an acrylic window to see the print). Protects also from dust and keeps the temperature high
Encasing the electronics and PSU in an enclosure is not the greatest idea, it would be wise to relocate those to keep stepper driver temps and PSU temps down.
@@JarredSutherland the temp in an enclosure usually doesn't reach crazy temperatures. It mostly used to minimize drafts, but moving the PSU away from heat is usually a good idea🙂
I've used the same DC-DC bucks. But I've left on the mainboard and PSU the stock fan lowered to near 12-15v and they become silent with still good airflow. On hotend instead of Noctua I've used Sunon MF40202V2-1000C-A99 DC 24V 0.68W 40x40x20mm. It's rated for 21db and doesn't need bucks.
Put a housing around it with sound deadening material like foam and wood, an acrylic door to check progress too, and it'll be dead quiet and depending on the filament improve the print quality too by maintaining ambient temperature more evenly. Also, place a proper base under the printer, something made out of hard rubber or foam or pavement block like CNC Kitchen did, it'll help mitigate resonance throughout the surrounding environment and probably helps with print quality a tiny bit.
Thanks for the advice, these are both great tips! I have moved the printer to a more sturdy solid wood table which helped a bit as the old table was a bit wobbly.
A big issue with the stock PSU is that the shroud totally blocks the exhaust vents. The only path for air is out by the terminal block, which then vents into the nearly-sealed cavity which houses the external mains switch. The air basically has to escape out of the little hole where the Y-stepper wire exits (you can feel the jet of air easily). This 'works', but it makes the PSU warm and keeps the fan on almost all of the time. I cut a nice big vent hole out of the shroud with a dremel, and now my PSU only briefly cycles the fan on when needed. The advantage of this fix is that is effectively free, and requires no replacement parts. You could achieve the same thing with a drill, if you don't have a dremel handy.
Thank you! Currently have the printer in the office, will move it to the basement once I get OctoPrint and Klipper setup finished (first done; Klipper is next challenge). Might work on silencing it first, now... :) Thanks again!
One of the easiest things you can do to reduce the noise it to remove the psu cover, maybe print something instead but it can safely work without the cover. (by psu cover I mean the black metal added by Creality)
Cool. A very, very easy way to reduce a lot of noise that is so cheap and quick is to simply by a cocrete slab(the type you might see spaced a part on the ground making a kind of path to lead to a shed or a front door). You put your printer on that and the concrete completely absorbs a lot of the 'shake' that creates noise. It also helps prints come out in a better quality. 5$, a visit to the hardware store. Doesn't get much easier than that.
I printed waterblocks for three steppers using pla (no need for metal blocks for the steppers), and a jacket around the metal heatsink for the heat brake. Entirely water cooled using a $5 BLDC pump. Recently ducted a quiet blower into the PSU now my printer is dead silent.....well except the bearings
That’s very interesting! I was thinking about a water cooled solution but didn’t want to tackle it at this point. Although you still need fans for the part cooling right? Currently my “silent stepper motors” are the loudest thing on my printer though
Yes that’s recommended, however they do provide a derating curve without the aluminum plate and depending on your countries native voltage you can still get 245-350W at 50C ambient temperatures
Yes, it’s made a huge difference, I’m happy to say it’s now quieter than my laptop, the loudest thing on the printer now is the “silent stepper motors” I’m not sure if there’s a way to make them more quiet in the future.
You should really add the findings into the beginning of the video, or put it on the thumbnail is large lettering. I think you'd get way more traction. Also would be interesting to know the costs of all these upgrades for people who aren't familiar with this kind of thing.
For PSU I used a AMD stock CPU Fan with enclosure from thingiverse. It has identical ventilation holes. Works perfect: the fan turns on less often and for a shorter period of time. For the Mainboard I went with a 120 mm PC fan. Also printed a new encousere for it (with holes for ventilation) and now the fan is on all the time.
I just replaced the old motherboard on my Ender 3 Pro, which brought the sound levels down massively, and I was wondering if I should look at the fans next. Your video landed at the perfect time :)
Thanks for the support! I wasn't able to find it on Amazon but there is an Alibaba link for it, I have it in the description of the Thingiverse item: 5169777
i'd definately recommend just buying some quality 24v fans as replacements, can get full replacements with 24v and still only be 6decibel louder than the expensive noctua fans and buck converter mods.
@@DesktopInventions fair point, i actually just got my ender 3 v2 in the door, and all replacement fans in 24v. let's compare for science sake :P any chance you remember the software you used on your phone to measure the sound level ?
Putting in a buck converter to run the 12V Noctua parts cooling fans off the 24V fan connector might seem lika good idea, but be aware that it is a PWM voltage on that connector. A buck is designed to run off a regular DC voltage, not a PWM. Also, you have now lost the ability to regulate the parts cooling fan speed from the slicer, since the buck outputs a constant voltage.
Yes this is a good note. A way to bypass the buck converter on parts cooling fan is running the 2 fans in series. I currently just run that fan off for the first layer and on for the rest of the print, do you know in which cases it’s useful to regulate the fan speed?
@@DesktopInventions if you’re printing anything other than PLA (since that’s usually at 100% fan speed) it gets useful to have your part cooling fan at low speeds or off until you need to bridge something, then ramp it up to prevent sagging during the first bridging layers.
I do talk about this in a little more detail at the 1:00 mark in this video. A couple different ways to wire it up. Also diagrams to go with it. ua-cam.com/video/z8G0tfs1LPw/v-deo.html
Hey, I replaced my cooling solution to the same one you have (the one at the end with three noctua fans). I faced a lot of issues with cooling after that, did you change something after that?
Not really, the cooling head from this video was one of the best performing cooling heads I’ve used. Did you use 4010 or 4020 fans? Both should work but 4020s are a bit better. Also did you check the air flow is aligned right below your nozzle?
I have 4 printers, if I am doing an overnight print I will use one that isn't in the bedroom. I have Changed the fans on all my printers and all have silent drivers. Makes a massive difference. I found the power supply fans on all of them to be a lot of the noise imo. Changing to a nice 80mm fan solves that.
Yea it’s been holding up great. I am quite familiar with that power supply from my occupation and have seen it working in environments much harsher than that for years.
Hi very cool video but I have a question, I have also an Ender 3 v2 and want to make it silence so I can sleep next to it. But I have an bl touch and it doesn’t fit with your design so my question is, if there is an other solution to make it completely silence but with the 40x40 part cooling fans ?
This is a great question. You can check out the solar orbiter design on thingiverse it is compatible with BLTouch, Ender 3V2, and 40x40 fans (and they also have a direct drive option if you’re interested). I was also considering printing that design for this project, maybe I will use this in the future if I install a BLTouch.
Hey question, when you put the two Noctua fans on. Did you wire then in series for 12+12 for 24v so you didn't have to put a buck converter? Or is that not how it works with fans?
I can't find the exact one on amazon, but here's a link to a similar one. Also you can search "USB adjustable power source" on amazon. www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Support-Regulator-Voltage-Converter/dp/B081N4RJ82
Yea I wasn’t confident in the airflow of the 40x10 so went with the safe route with the 40x20. Plan to do some more testing in the future to see how a 40x10 works
The buck converters in your link have an issue where it opens the circuit if the supplied voltage is above 18V (this happened on all 5 of the ones that I got). I would recommend others use a different converter
Interesting I haven’t encountered this issue before with the 3 or 4 I used. I did see other comments on Amazon about this issue it Might be a quality defect. Thanks for bringing this up!
Thank you for these improvements! You could show the noozle fan connection assembly. I have never done such an installation and would like to have a reference. Thanks!
Thanks for the support! I wasn't able to find it on Amazon but there is an Alibaba link for it, I have it in the description of the Thingiverse item: 5169777
Hey loved your video. I recently got my first 3d printer (also a ender 3 v2). But I got a quick question which mini dc converted did you use and at what voltage( for the Noctua fans )? I’m also trying to make it quite so I can sleep next to it bc I have it in my room. Also how do you plan on fixing the issue with the mount hitting the frame other than with hot glue.
I added the link for the DC converter in the description. The 3D printer is 24V but the Noctua fans are 12V. For the switch issue it would not be an issue if you use 40x10 fans, but also I plan to 3D print a piece to go on the switch in the next few days. I’ll add the link to the description once it’s done. Good luck with your project!
The best economical solution would be to change the fan on the current power supply to a larger and quieter fan. But If you want a fanless PSU and want to mount the power supply on the side of the 3D printer you should have some options. The UHP-350 would work but might look a bit ugly with wires coming out of both sides. Also there’s one called inshareplus 400W which would also work.
@@DesktopInventions ok thanks yeah it sucks that the ender 3 pro has a different mounting solution than the 3 V2. Do you know if I could just move the supply to where yours is and have it set up that way? Also was the cost around 90 that’s what I’m seeing on amazon.
Yea around $90 on Amazon, unfortunately not too cheap. I think you could move it to a similar place as the Ender 3 V2 but you probably have to make a mounting plate of some sort. And definitely measure the space on the bottom of your printer before you purchase. Also account for the harnessing coming out of both ends of the power supply
With this build, did you change any temp settings or things like that being that there is more efficient air cooling out of the tip? I just did this build for my 3v2 with the upgrades of 3 4x10 noctua fans, Swiss hot end and cr touch. The filament I know is good, now skips on sticking at points. Thanks for answers and the ideas you provide!
@@DesktopInventions it was the layering that was doing it. Looking more at things and doing a few tests, raising the hot end temp was the fix for me. I’m on successful print #2 currently!
Hello, I've been watching lots of fan upgrades where all of them recomend 12v fam with buck converters and I decided to upgrade it with those fans so I can run my ender 3 v2 24/7 but I also have encountered retractor of those upgrades and scared me a little bit, so I wanted to ask you if since the date you made the upgrade on your printer till this day have you had any problems with in the mother board or shortcut or some issue thay would relate to the fan upgrade? I've seen how well they work in a lot of videos but I havent seen any comtinuation of how it continue working. I wanted to say thank you for your video it has helped me to understand a Lot :).
Thanks for the comment and I’m glad you enjoyed the video! No I haven’t had any issues with the buck converters on my 3D printer. I used to have 3 at one point and removed 1 of them just to simply the printer and connect the two 12V fans in series. No issues for me, nor have I heard of others with issues.
Quite impressive work! Left a Subscription :) Is it PLA you are using for all the mods or is it some higher temp filament? I am quite nervous about putting PLA around the Hotend and still are left with the standard Hotend cover because I like the looks.
Awesome! I already done the mods for de PSU and the control board, my question is, you use 2 buck converters or 3 on the hotend cooling?, only have buck´s with led display and don´t wanna make a mess, thanks! (gonna better my english :) )
To start off I used 2 buck converters, 1 for the hot end fan and 1 for the 2 parts cooling fans. Later I removed the buck converter for the 2 parts cooling fans since it was unnecessary. I just connect the 2 part cooling fans in series without a buck converter.
Just as a note if you connect the part cooling fans like this you lose the ability to control them very well with the software. For example if you set the fan speed to 50% only 1 fan will run. But I usually run mine at 100% and there’s no need to turn them down since they are so quiet.
Bought all the supplies from Amazon., fired up the printer to start slanging plastic to make the parts, and after the printer probed the bed I realized there is no option for a BL Touch mount for this fan mount. Wish there was an option for BL/CR Touch
@@DesktopInventions Thanks for the recommendation. I think the Solar Orbiter may work, but I have serious doubts about the restriction of flow for the duct side opposite the fan. Might as well print it out and give it a try. In the mean time I'm going to see if I can remix a BL Touch mount on to this design.
@GreenG20t Agreed I thought the same thing, I have a BLTouch but haven’t got around to installing it yet. If you do a remix of this fan mount that might push me over the edge to install it xD
If you want to stick with the 40mm noctua for a part cooling fan there is another model on thingiverse called solar orbiter that works with BLTouch. If you don’t mind using a centrifugal/blower fan there are many options
Thanks for the support! I wasn't able to find the exact product on Amazon but there is an Alibaba link for it, I have it in the description of the Thingiverse item: 5169777
Great video! I was wondering, have you had any issues with heat creep on the heat block? I've seen some people say that can be an issue with the noctua fans, which don't put out the same CFM as stock. Also, any over heating issues with the new fanless PSU?
No issues on creep of the heat block as of now with a 100+ hours of printing including some 15 hour long prints. Bowden tube is still in good shape. So far so good! As for the PSU no issues there. According to the decaying on the spec sheet it can handle anywhere from 245W to 350W at 50C ambient temperatures depending on your native country voltage 110/220V. The Ender 3 draws a max of 240W for a short period as the bed is heating up then draws significantly less than that while printing.
Thanks, that's some good info. I've been switching to noctua fans on my Sovol sv01. I was concerned about the hot end fan, but I think the 4020 will be fine like you said. I opted to keep my original PSU, and just add a 120/15 cooling fan. That actually seems to be a bit overkill, 80 or 60 probably would have been fine. But it's silent and running cool!
@@Tom-ik5sc that’s great to hear! Yea a whole new power supply is admittedly overkill haha and a larger fan but s a great solution to lower the sound level. I’m curious will you use a noctua fan for your part cooling fan as well?
Hey. Yes, I actually am putting on a 4020 noctua parts cooling fan. I finally found a good mount for it, and just got it mounted yesterday. I'll be wiring it in with a buck. I'm not sure if it'll have enough static pressure, though. But I've been hearing about using slicer tuning to reduce the need for fans. So I'm hoping if I can get slicer settings right, the lower air flow will be ok. Worst case, I can put the blower fan back, I'm using JST connectors to make swaps easy.
@@DesktopInventions Thank you very much. Really enjoyed your video (and also others on this matter). Also, which alternative do you suggest for the power supply?
@@DesktopInventions And very good job on the "technical" analysis with the different alternatives. Very good approach, that helps to understand the influence of each upgrade. Great seeing it on the graph
@@donturnock5176 What exactly will be the problems with the prints? I am thinking of upgrading mine. Is there more information about the problem with nocuta fans somewhere?
@@donturnock5176 My Ender 3 has had a Noctua 4010 for hotend cooling with a Fan Duct Satsana for two years now. It operates all year round, often printing over 17 hours. I've never had any issues with creep. Keep in mind that the basic fan offered by Creality is oversized in terms of capacity for all purposes of ensuring the proper functioning of the printer. Who can do more can do less. The Prusa I3Mk3 also has an original Noctua in 4010 to cool its hotend. I think the installation of a Noctua 4010 type FLX will be more of a problem for all-metal Hotends like the Micro Swiss.
I saw on a post somewhere that if you hook the negative wire from the fan directly back to the motherboard (bypass the DC converter) it works to vary the speed. But I haven’t tried this yet
@@DesktopInventions Ok thanks for all the help. Have you experienced any of the heat creep people have talked about. ALso do you know if there is the same duct but with BL thouch anywhere?
I have not tried that yet. I will put that on the list to do some testing. I’m tempted to do some testing with printing my own out of TPU which is a soft filament
@@DesktopInventions oh amazing! I cannot wait to see the improvements it makes and the differences between diy and bought ones. Keep up the fantastic work.
Keep in mind that the stock part cooling fan was underpowered to start with, so you don't get good part cooling so you have reduced bridging performance. Radial fans are a poor choice for this because blowers work better to push air through these kinds of constricted air ducts on the shrouds. Yeah, you quieted the printer down, but you likely didn't get good part cooling performance. You probably would have been better off with a single 5015 blower fan that you could potentially dial down via slicer settings as needed but could crank for bridging.
Yea the goal of this build was as quiet as possible and I knew the noctua fans could achieve this. I will probably look at some blower fan build in the future as well since there is many more mounting options out there. I am pretty confident this solution will cool quite well. I’ll have to do a video on some performance testing in the future to show the results and probably need to optimize some settings further. Thanks for the feedback!
@@heroflying do you know if these 5015 radials are good upgrades? The stock one isn't that loud but on the other hand it really does not move a lot of air...
The best you can do to make your ender 3 v2 literally silent, or any other 3d printer for that matter, is changing the coolers for NOCTUA coolers. That's it. You go from 50~60db to 29db instantly.
I don’t believe so, green yellow for ground, black for line, and red for neutral. That was how the original power supply on the printer was connected anyways!
@DesktopInventions if your printer wasn't near your room or affecting your sleep, is there any benefit to the mod? Is it pure audible difference? Any benefits to parts cooling?
You know there's a reason why the power supply has a fan right? it's really important to cool your power supply or it will overheat and fail quickly especially in the small enclosed space it's in under the printer. It would be ok if you had the PSU out of the enclosure to allow for convection to happen at least naturally.
Yes, what your saying is generally best practice, but this power supply is running at 40% load typically so it doesn’t struggle too much with heat buildup. I will plan to make a video later monitoring the temperatures of components to show how they’re performing.
Litterly 2 years 2 late...... There are dozens and dozens of video's about making this printer almost noise free..... With exact the same upgrades you mentioned....... Why re-invent the wheel?
I wanted to document and show the various sound improvements 1 by 1 and the impact of each change. Also changing the power supply and using 3 noctua fans on the printing head isn’t something I’ve seen before.
I just don't understand the whole "noisy" printer thing. At it's core a 3d printer is a machine and machines make noise. At 60 decibels stock, a printer is not much louder than a household refrigerator or a business office. Good video though
Yea everyone has their noise tolerance threshold, wives also are sometimes not as understanding about having “machines” in the house haha. Also there are many people with 3D printers that think tinkering and upgrading the machines are half the fun to it 😀
Hate when people say it's almost silent when somethings in the range of 30db, that's not even remotely close to silent. Manufacturers are the worst though they claim something silent they make when it's anything but. 3fb is loud as fuck in a silent room haha
Yea in the 3D printing world I’d say it’s relatively very quiet. Also I’m not sure my phone dB recorder is that accurate, the quietest I’ve recorded my apartment is 27dB
Perfect! My printer is way too loud! Excellent work on this video! Lots of great info and thanks for all the links! You clearly put in a lot of time prepping, filming, and post-production. I'm subscribing.
Thanks I appreciate the comment and I’m glad you enjoyed the video! Good luck quieting down your printer!
one thing i can advice you when silencing the ender 3 v2: design a semi-open housing for the mainboard and psu. Start with replacing the 4 rubber feet by 4 squashball feet. The squashball feet rises the printer and silences the overall sound from printing and fans in the frame. Once the printer has about 40 mm extra space underneath it, you have room to be creative and design a new housing for the mainboard to install a Noctua 8. Also for the psu, a semi open box for placing a Noctua 8. I designed a dozen cases to fit some dc buck converters and the two Noctua 80X80X25's. The final design i made was semi-open. so walls and floors of the 2 cases semi-open. It resulted in fear for forgetting to plug in the psu fan, but it was plugged in. The psu temperature stays way lower due to the open housing. The closed psu case with new noctua 8 was quit but it still needed to cool a lot. The same case with open see through structure is the final stage.
Good advice, currently my power supply is open, I didn’t put the original shroud back on. The motherboard area is semi open with the brass standoffs I added, but the overall bottom of the printer is pretty close to the table. I will look into some taller squash-ball feet like you recommended! Thanks!
What are pushball feet?
@@MikeJones-mf2rt you mean the squashball feet? It basically replaces the stock rubber feet of the printer. Its a printed part, looks like an egg in a egg holder. The egg is the squashball and the egg holder has to be printed. The holder has a connection to slide in the extrusion profile. Pull the frontcovers off of the extrusion profile and pull the glued rubber stock feet off to slide in the new upside down bowl with the squashball. Or you just open your browser, go to google and type in the searchbar “why cant i fint answers myself”. You’ll find some good results😉. Or not
@@Robin-Visser Google owns UA-cam, and here I am asking you 🥳
Great video! I wish these companies would just put out models for a slight premium that have quiet fans to begin with and save us all the trouble of fixing their problems. I’m currently going through tuning a few CR-6 SEs into sounding a little less like a jet engine taking off in my workshop, so this video is extremely useful.
I totally agree, keep the cheap economical model, but also have an option with these upgrades.
LOL. It drives up the printer costs and they would not be competitively priced anymore, that's why, it's very clear and makes sense. Even if they offered it with a quieter fan option few would by the same printer and a significant price increase, that's why.
So now you buy the printer dirt cheap because it's good and cheap, then pay to upgrade it after you own it make it quieter and better....
@@airgliderz So you would rather pay a normal price plus another $10 a fan and an hour or two of your time or just another $5 a fan for a better setup from the factory? Seems rather silly.
Yes they are a high volume low cost manufacturer and with high volumes and multiple distributors buying and stocking from them so they cannot have too many options. Perhaps they could through a feature like this in with a pro version, but maybe there isn’t enough consumer demand to make up for the cost.
@@DaveDDD clearly are you blind manufacturing costs and economics? A $5 part cost increase in reality ups the price of the printer double and more $5 the $5 part so it is profitable/pays the bills and labor costs, all good things to stay in business and be successfully stay in business, make a profit and to be able to pay your employees, bills, manufacturing costs, maintenance, rent, utilities, and taxes, simple basic economics 101.
On the Ender 3 I swapped out the fans, the PSU fan was replaced with an 80mm - it's still like 10db quieter lol. Also worth mentioning: eliminating fan guards reduce the noise significantly as well (if it's a close mounted guard). I have no idea what people need a fan guard for, so I got rid of em.
Best, cheapest, easiest, fastest way to silence the 3D-printer:
Build a massive wooden housing (with an acrylic window to see the print). Protects also from dust and keeps the temperature high
enclosure added to my to-do list thanks!
Encasing the electronics and PSU in an enclosure is not the greatest idea, it would be wise to relocate those to keep stepper driver temps and PSU temps down.
@@JarredSutherland the temp in an enclosure usually doesn't reach crazy temperatures. It mostly used to minimize drafts, but moving the PSU away from heat is usually a good idea🙂
I've used the same DC-DC bucks. But I've left on the mainboard and PSU the stock fan lowered to near 12-15v and they become silent with still good airflow.
On hotend instead of Noctua I've used Sunon MF40202V2-1000C-A99 DC 24V 0.68W 40x40x20mm. It's rated for 21db and doesn't need bucks.
Thanks for sharing your ideas and engineering. I also like that the filament cooling is greatley improved (and balanced).
Thanks for your support! I look forward to sharing more in the future!
Put a housing around it with sound deadening material like foam and wood, an acrylic door to check progress too, and it'll be dead quiet and depending on the filament improve the print quality too by maintaining ambient temperature more evenly.
Also, place a proper base under the printer, something made out of hard rubber or foam or pavement block like CNC Kitchen did, it'll help mitigate resonance throughout the surrounding environment and probably helps with print quality a tiny bit.
Thanks for the advice, these are both great tips! I have moved the printer to a more sturdy solid wood table which helped a bit as the old table was a bit wobbly.
A big issue with the stock PSU is that the shroud totally blocks the exhaust vents. The only path for air is out by the terminal block, which then vents into the nearly-sealed cavity which houses the external mains switch. The air basically has to escape out of the little hole where the Y-stepper wire exits (you can feel the jet of air easily).
This 'works', but it makes the PSU warm and keeps the fan on almost all of the time. I cut a nice big vent hole out of the shroud with a dremel, and now my PSU only briefly cycles the fan on when needed. The advantage of this fix is that is effectively free, and requires no replacement parts. You could achieve the same thing with a drill, if you don't have a dremel handy.
Yea I’ve seen others do this as well, definitely a big design oversight!
Thank you! Currently have the printer in the office, will move it to the basement once I get OctoPrint and Klipper setup finished (first done; Klipper is next challenge). Might work on silencing it first, now... :) Thanks again!
Have fun! I hope it goes well for you!
Oh a shiny small channel with a light bulb in its logo design! Those are always full of the good stuff... lol
Yes those truly are the brightest minds 😀
One of the easiest things you can do to reduce the noise it to remove the psu cover, maybe print something instead but it can safely work without the cover.
(by psu cover I mean the black metal added by Creality)
Good point, they definitely restricted the air intake on the PSU fan too much causing it to turn on more frequently
Cool. A very, very easy way to reduce a lot of noise that is so cheap and quick is to simply by a cocrete slab(the type you might see spaced a part on the ground making a kind of path to lead to a shed or a front door). You put your printer on that and the concrete completely absorbs a lot of the 'shake' that creates noise. It also helps prints come out in a better quality. 5$, a visit to the hardware store. Doesn't get much easier than that.
Great suggestion, I definitely need to look at a more sturdy base
Man 3db just off the go is significant.
I printed waterblocks for three steppers using pla (no need for metal blocks for the steppers), and a jacket around the metal heatsink for the heat brake. Entirely water cooled using a $5 BLDC pump. Recently ducted a quiet blower into the PSU now my printer is dead silent.....well except the bearings
That’s very interesting! I was thinking about a water cooled solution but didn’t want to tackle it at this point. Although you still need fans for the part cooling right? Currently my “silent stepper motors” are the loudest thing on my printer though
Very cool changing the power supply out , I've been meaning to do this to my v2
Yea it’s not the cheapest upgrade but it is a good quality power supply and fanless
But I believe it needs to be mounted to a minimum 450x450 aluminum panel to dissipate heat.
Yes that’s recommended, however they do provide a derating curve without the aluminum plate and depending on your countries native voltage you can still get 245-350W at 50C ambient temperatures
Great video and a great display of what a simple thing like switching fans can do! I quite like that modified hot end housing too!
Yes, it’s made a huge difference, I’m happy to say it’s now quieter than my laptop, the loudest thing on the printer now is the “silent stepper motors” I’m not sure if there’s a way to make them more quiet in the future.
You should really add the findings into the beginning of the video, or put it on the thumbnail is large lettering. I think you'd get way more traction.
Also would be interesting to know the costs of all these upgrades for people who aren't familiar with this kind of thing.
Excellent video! I had been considering some of these upgrades but had found no quantitative data on their effect until you video.
Glad it was helpful! I did some other videos on the fan cooling performance as well!
For PSU I used a AMD stock CPU Fan with enclosure from thingiverse. It has identical ventilation holes. Works perfect: the fan turns on less often and for a shorter period of time. For the Mainboard I went with a 120 mm PC fan. Also printed a new encousere for it (with holes for ventilation) and now the fan is on all the time.
Nice upgrades! I bet it's much more quiet than the stock setup!
Cool! Planning on doing the same. Very good step-wise comparison 👌
Thanks for the comment! Good luck with your build!
I want to buy a 3D printer for moped related prints. So i am doing some research and came across this video. Clear explenations, keep it going!
Your welcome! Glad I could help! Make sure to use ABS if your parts will be exposed to higher temperatures!
3 is a mighty low threshold for the quantifier "several". I look forward to reducing noise on my E3v2 since it lives in my bedroom with me. Thanks!
Many sound reductions little by little add up 😃
I just replaced the old motherboard on my Ender 3 Pro, which brought the sound levels down massively, and I was wondering if I should look at the fans next. Your video landed at the perfect time :)
I’m glad my video was helpful! Yea replacing the fans was a huge help!
Can you share the link of your volage regulator that you have with LCD I am not able to search it anywhere.
Thanks for the support! I wasn't able to find it on Amazon but there is an Alibaba link for it, I have it in the description of the Thingiverse item: 5169777
i'd definately recommend just buying some quality 24v fans as replacements, can get full replacements with 24v and still only be 6decibel louder than the expensive noctua fans and buck converter mods.
Yes that would definitely be more simple and cheap. For this build though I was going all in on quiet mods 🤣
@@DesktopInventions fair point, i actually just got my ender 3 v2 in the door, and all replacement fans in 24v.
let's compare for science sake :P any chance you remember the software you used on your phone to measure the sound level ?
I was wondering if the PSU can Handle long running time without heating up. 3d printers can run for days sometimes
Yes no issues with this power supply running a long time.
Great ideas, I have one of this + 4 others, my hot tip is use an ear plug and don't worry about anything else.😊
Haha nice one! Yea some noise canceling headphones are great too!
Putting in a buck converter to run the 12V Noctua parts cooling fans off the 24V fan connector might seem lika good idea, but be aware that it is a PWM voltage on that connector. A buck is designed to run off a regular DC voltage, not a PWM. Also, you have now lost the ability to regulate the parts cooling fan speed from the slicer, since the buck outputs a constant voltage.
Yes this is a good note. A way to bypass the buck converter on parts cooling fan is running the 2 fans in series. I currently just run that fan off for the first layer and on for the rest of the print, do you know in which cases it’s useful to regulate the fan speed?
@@DesktopInventions if you’re printing anything other than PLA (since that’s usually at 100% fan speed) it gets useful to have your part cooling fan at low speeds or off until you need to bridge something, then ramp it up to prevent sagging during the first bridging layers.
Thanks for the advice! I haven’t printed with much other than PLA… yet
Dude love the video, can you post a picture of the wiring with the fan and transformers its a pain trynna zoom in lol
I do talk about this in a little more detail at the 1:00 mark in this video. A couple different ways to wire it up. Also diagrams to go with it.
ua-cam.com/video/z8G0tfs1LPw/v-deo.html
👍👍😎👍👍. This video definitely rises to adding you to my subscription list
Thanks I appreciate the support 😃
Hey, I replaced my cooling solution to the same one you have (the one at the end with three noctua fans). I faced a lot of issues with cooling after that, did you change something after that?
Not really, the cooling head from this video was one of the best performing cooling heads I’ve used. Did you use 4010 or 4020 fans? Both should work but 4020s are a bit better. Also did you check the air flow is aligned right below your nozzle?
I have 4 printers, if I am doing an overnight print I will use one that isn't in the bedroom.
I have Changed the fans on all my printers and all have silent drivers. Makes a massive difference.
I found the power supply fans on all of them to be a lot of the noise imo. Changing to a nice 80mm fan solves that.
Yea the 80mm fan on the PSU is probably 90% as good as a fan-less PSU sound wise but much cheaper. The new PSU was a bit of an extreme solution haha
Yea it’s been holding up great. I am quite familiar with that power supply from my occupation and have seen it working in environments much harsher than that for years.
I replaced my mobo and psu fans and it quieted down a ton, didn't touch the hot end fans that's all I hear now
yea, unfortunately, everything on the Ender 3 is loud 🤣
Very cool.
Does anyone have a file to print that extruder housing for a ender 3 not a ender 3 v2?
Hi very cool video but I have a question, I have also an Ender 3 v2 and want to make it silence so I can sleep next to it. But I have an bl touch and it doesn’t fit with your design so my question is, if there is an other solution to make it completely silence but with the 40x40 part cooling fans ?
This is a great question. You can check out the solar orbiter design on thingiverse it is compatible with BLTouch, Ender 3V2, and 40x40 fans (and they also have a direct drive option if you’re interested). I was also considering printing that design for this project, maybe I will use this in the future if I install a BLTouch.
@@DesktopInventions thanks for the quick answer
Hey question, when you put the two Noctua fans on. Did you wire then in series for 12+12 for 24v so you didn't have to put a buck converter? Or is that not how it works with fans?
Yes you can put them in series so you don’t need the buck converter.
@@DesktopInventions awesome! Happy New Year, have a subscriber haha
can you give the the link for your dc converter with the screen?
I can't find the exact one on amazon, but here's a link to a similar one. Also you can search "USB adjustable power source" on amazon.
www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Support-Regulator-Voltage-Converter/dp/B081N4RJ82
Excellent work! I'm wondering why u went with the 40x20 instead of the 40x10. Is it because that one may not have enough airflow?
Yea I wasn’t confident in the airflow of the 40x10 so went with the safe route with the 40x20. Plan to do some more testing in the future to see how a 40x10 works
Great Video! Which screws did you use for the mainboard fan and the hotend fans?
The buck converters in your link have an issue where it opens the circuit if the supplied voltage is above 18V (this happened on all 5 of the ones that I got). I would recommend others use a different converter
Interesting I haven’t encountered this issue before with the 3 or 4 I used. I did see other comments on Amazon about this issue it Might be a quality defect. Thanks for bringing this up!
Good channel. Hope you still make some videos.
Subscribed! Great video
Thanks for the support!
Ender 3s have warranties?
It's whisper quiet now! Like the mod
Thanks man! It purrs like a cat now 🐱
Thank you for these improvements!
You could show the noozle fan connection assembly.
I have never done such an installation and would like to have a reference.
Thanks!
Thanks I will keep that in mind on the future videos!
Nice video, really informative! Do you have a link for that larger DC converter with screen? Looks like a helpful troubleshooting tool to have!
Thanks for the support! I wasn't able to find it on Amazon but there is an Alibaba link for it, I have it in the description of the Thingiverse item: 5169777
@@DesktopInventions Great, thank you!
Do you have a BL/CR touch kit on your 3D printer with this mod?
This fan mount doesn’t allow the BL touch but there is another one called the solar orbiter that can work with Noctua fans and the BLTouch.
Hey loved your video. I recently got my first 3d printer (also a ender 3 v2). But I got a quick question which mini dc converted did you use and at what voltage( for the Noctua fans )? I’m also trying to make it quite so I can sleep next to it bc I have it in my room. Also how do you plan on fixing the issue with the mount hitting the frame other than with hot glue.
I added the link for the DC converter in the description. The 3D printer is 24V but the Noctua fans are 12V. For the switch issue it would not be an issue if you use 40x10 fans, but also I plan to 3D print a piece to go on the switch in the next few days. I’ll add the link to the description once it’s done. Good luck with your project!
I've created a simple 3D printed model to replace the super glue fix. The 3D model link in the description now!
@@DesktopInventions Does modifying the endstop reduce the maximum x distance since the switch is what it homes onto?
@@e.purcell8254 Its possible, but it only limits it by like a centimeter.
Is there a powersupply like this for the ender 3 pro. I cannot stand the noise this thing makes.
The best economical solution would be to change the fan on the current power supply to a larger and quieter fan. But If you want a fanless PSU and want to mount the power supply on the side of the 3D printer you should have some options. The UHP-350 would work but might look a bit ugly with wires coming out of both sides. Also there’s one called inshareplus 400W which would also work.
@@DesktopInventions ok thanks yeah it sucks that the ender 3 pro has a different mounting solution than the 3 V2. Do you know if I could just move the supply to where yours is and have it set up that way? Also was the cost around 90 that’s what I’m seeing on amazon.
Yea around $90 on Amazon, unfortunately not too cheap. I think you could move it to a similar place as the Ender 3 V2 but you probably have to make a mounting plate of some sort. And definitely measure the space on the bottom of your printer before you purchase. Also account for the harnessing coming out of both ends of the power supply
With this build, did you change any temp settings or things like that being that there is more efficient air cooling out of the tip? I just did this build for my 3v2 with the upgrades of 3 4x10 noctua fans, Swiss hot end and cr touch. The filament I know is good, now skips on sticking at points. Thanks for answers and the ideas you provide!
No I didn’t have to change any setting except making sure the voltage was right for the fans. What part is sticking or skipping?
@@DesktopInventions it was the layering that was doing it. Looking more at things and doing a few tests, raising the hot end temp was the fix for me. I’m on successful print #2 currently!
Good deal great to hear you got it figured out :D
Hello, I've been watching lots of fan upgrades where all of them recomend 12v fam with buck converters and I decided to upgrade it with those fans so I can run my ender 3 v2 24/7 but I also have encountered retractor of those upgrades and scared me a little bit, so I wanted to ask you if since the date you made the upgrade on your printer till this day have you had any problems with in the mother board or shortcut or some issue thay would relate to the fan upgrade? I've seen how well they work in a lot of videos but I havent seen any comtinuation of how it continue working.
I wanted to say thank you for your video it has helped me to understand a Lot :).
Thanks for the comment and I’m glad you enjoyed the video! No I haven’t had any issues with the buck converters on my 3D printer. I used to have 3 at one point and removed 1 of them just to simply the printer and connect the two 12V fans in series. No issues for me, nor have I heard of others with issues.
I used the same fans, but without the grilles. Didnt need the hot glue since theres about 1mm of space between each...
Nice! Yea I suppose removing the grills would give just enough clearance, thanks for sharing
Quite impressive work! Left a Subscription :)
Is it PLA you are using for all the mods or is it some higher temp filament? I am quite nervous about putting PLA around the Hotend and still are left with the standard Hotend cover because I like the looks.
So far it’s just with PLA. Haven’t found a need to print other materials yet
Sounds great, thnx for the information
So are the non noctua fans called ?
I just got a generic fan for the bottom of the control board. Not even sure the name anymore.
Awesome! I already done the mods for de PSU and the control board, my question is, you use 2 buck converters or 3 on the hotend cooling?, only have buck´s with led display and don´t wanna make a mess, thanks! (gonna better my english :) )
To start off I used 2 buck converters, 1 for the hot end fan and 1 for the 2 parts cooling fans. Later I removed the buck converter for the 2 parts cooling fans since it was unnecessary. I just connect the 2 part cooling fans in series without a buck converter.
Just as a note if you connect the part cooling fans like this you lose the ability to control them very well with the software. For example if you set the fan speed to 50% only 1 fan will run. But I usually run mine at 100% and there’s no need to turn them down since they are so quiet.
I don't like the yellow but it does look and sound good
Thanks! That’s the fun thing about 3D printing you can choose any color you want :D
Bought all the supplies from Amazon., fired up the printer to start slanging plastic to make the parts, and after the printer probed the bed I realized there is no option for a BL Touch mount for this fan mount. Wish there was an option for BL/CR Touch
You can check out the solar orbiter model on thingiverse. I believe that one is compatible with the BLTouch and the noctua fans.
@@DesktopInventions Thanks for the recommendation. I think the Solar Orbiter may work, but I have serious doubts about the restriction of flow for the duct side opposite the fan. Might as well print it out and give it a try. In the mean time I'm going to see if I can remix a BL Touch mount on to this design.
@GreenG20t Agreed I thought the same thing, I have a BLTouch but haven’t got around to installing it yet. If you do a remix of this fan mount that might push me over the edge to install it xD
If you use Papst fans the noise will go down further. Papst is equipped with needle bearings.
Thanks! I never heard of those!
Me too, can you tell me a bit more about that
thats pretty cool! Any workarounds if using a BL touch as well ?
If you want to stick with the 40mm noctua for a part cooling fan there is another model on thingiverse called solar orbiter that works with BLTouch. If you don’t mind using a centrifugal/blower fan there are many options
@@DesktopInventions thanks i will take a look!
Good job !!! possible to provide me a link for the voltage converter with display ? Please !
Thanks for the support! I wasn't able to find the exact product on Amazon but there is an Alibaba link for it, I have it
in the description of the Thingiverse item:
5169777
I think you plugged your new mainboard fan into the part cooling fan slot
Thanks for the comment, I’ll have to double check on that!
Great video! I was wondering, have you had any issues with heat creep on the heat block? I've seen some people say that can be an issue with the noctua fans, which don't put out the same CFM as stock. Also, any over heating issues with the new fanless PSU?
No issues on creep of the heat block as of now with a 100+ hours of printing including some 15 hour long prints. Bowden tube is still in good shape. So far so good!
As for the PSU no issues there. According to the decaying on the spec sheet it can handle anywhere from 245W to 350W at 50C ambient temperatures depending on your native country voltage 110/220V. The Ender 3 draws a max of 240W for a short period as the bed is heating up then draws significantly less than that while printing.
Thanks, that's some good info. I've been switching to noctua fans on my Sovol sv01. I was concerned about the hot end fan, but I think the 4020 will be fine like you said. I opted to keep my original PSU, and just add a 120/15 cooling fan. That actually seems to be a bit overkill, 80 or 60 probably would have been fine. But it's silent and running cool!
@@Tom-ik5sc that’s great to hear! Yea a whole new power supply is admittedly overkill haha and a larger fan but s a great solution to lower the sound level. I’m curious will you use a noctua fan for your part cooling fan as well?
Hey. Yes, I actually am putting on a 4020 noctua parts cooling fan. I finally found a good mount for it, and just got it mounted yesterday. I'll be wiring it in with a buck. I'm not sure if it'll have enough static pressure, though. But I've been hearing about using slicer tuning to reduce the need for fans. So I'm hoping if I can get slicer settings right, the lower air flow will be ok. Worst case, I can put the blower fan back, I'm using JST connectors to make swaps easy.
nice video sir..
I'll do it myself.. I just hope my printer won't bite me.
Good luck! just remember to unplug the power and take it step by step and I’m sure you’ll be fine.
Does anyone has an estimate on how much does it cost for all of these upgrades?
About $50 worth of fans/DC convertors and the power supply is around $80 but not 100% necessary. Links are in the description.
@@DesktopInventions Thank you very much. Really enjoyed your video (and also others on this matter).
Also, which alternative do you suggest for the power supply?
@@DesktopInventions And very good job on the "technical" analysis with the different alternatives. Very good approach, that helps to understand the influence of each upgrade. Great seeing it on the graph
Great video! In the futrure please make sure that the sound level is the same throughout the whole video.
Thanks for the feedback I’ll pay attention to that more in the future
@@DesktopInventions no problem, looking forward to future videos.
Wow!
Hope you enjoyed the video!
EXCELENTE VIDEO
Thanks for the support!
I can't believe that youtubers are still recommending the noctua fans with too low CFM output.. sad, but I guess anything fir a like click :(
I haven’t had any issues with these low CFM fans after many hours of printing. Also there are 2 part cooling fans compared to the stock 1 fan.
@@DesktopInventions Yep, keep telling yourself that... :(
@@donturnock5176 What exactly will be the problems with the prints? I am thinking of upgrading mine. Is there more information about the problem with nocuta fans somewhere?
@@amarok3333 Do your due diligent research. you will find plenty. Study the specs, they say it all.
@@donturnock5176 My Ender 3 has had a Noctua 4010 for hotend cooling with a Fan Duct Satsana for two years now.
It operates all year round, often printing over 17 hours. I've never had any issues with creep.
Keep in mind that the basic fan offered by Creality is oversized in terms of capacity for all purposes of ensuring the proper functioning of the printer. Who can do more can do less.
The Prusa I3Mk3 also has an original Noctua in 4010 to cool its hotend.
I think the installation of a Noctua 4010 type FLX will be more of a problem for all-metal Hotends like the Micro Swiss.
very good video
Thanks! I’m glad you enjoyed it!
at 13:03 how do you wire those up so the speed varies. I cannot find this anywhere
I saw on a post somewhere that if you hook the negative wire from the fan directly back to the motherboard (bypass the DC converter) it works to vary the speed. But I haven’t tried this yet
Here is a link to a thread explaining it. You can read the comments in there. www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/d7oxnh/external_mosfet/
@@DesktopInventions ok thanks for the help. So is yours just running at 100%?
Yea at 100% I’ll probably look at this other solution I sent you when I do the direct drive upgrade
@@DesktopInventions Ok thanks for all the help. Have you experienced any of the heat creep people have talked about. ALso do you know if there is the same duct but with BL thouch anywhere?
not all of them void warranty if you do it properly
Did you put on servo dampers or whatever their called earlier? That's so quiet wow!
I have not tried that yet. I will put that on the list to do some testing. I’m tempted to do some testing with printing my own out of TPU which is a soft filament
@@DesktopInventions oh amazing! I cannot wait to see the improvements it makes and the differences between diy and bought ones. Keep up the fantastic work.
Why you dont connect this 2 fan in series ?? changing fan speed would work beter and you dont need this ugly dc-dc converter ???
Yes good point I ended up doing that later on in another video
Do you have a link for the fans?
I added a link to the description now
thats cool but is there a mod to make it louder?
Stick things in the fan I suppose haha the 3D printer equivalent of sticking a baseball card in your bike spokes
Keep in mind that the stock part cooling fan was underpowered to start with, so you don't get good part cooling so you have reduced bridging performance. Radial fans are a poor choice for this because blowers work better to push air through these kinds of constricted air ducts on the shrouds. Yeah, you quieted the printer down, but you likely didn't get good part cooling performance. You probably would have been better off with a single 5015 blower fan that you could potentially dial down via slicer settings as needed but could crank for bridging.
Yea the goal of this build was as quiet as possible and I knew the noctua fans could achieve this. I will probably look at some blower fan build in the future as well since there is many more mounting options out there. I am pretty confident this solution will cool quite well. I’ll have to do a video on some performance testing in the future to show the results and probably need to optimize some settings further. Thanks for the feedback!
@@DesktopInventions Yeah, I'm curious to see how good your bridging is with that setup - how far you can push it.
@@heroflying you are mixing up radial and axial. You mean axial is bad for this? Blowers are radial.
@@Patty-qy8qh Yep, sorry about that.
@@heroflying do you know if these 5015 radials are good upgrades? The stock one isn't that loud but on the other hand it really does not move a lot of air...
The best you can do to make your ender 3 v2 literally silent, or any other 3d printer for that matter, is changing the coolers for NOCTUA coolers.
That's it. You go from 50~60db to 29db instantly.
That’s pretty good advice, pretty similar to the end result of the video, thanks for watching!
those two part cooling fans aren't so necessary. one large one or two smaller would do
Maybe so, I was trying to be better safe than sorry haha
Btw your wiring is wrong at 07:00 for psu
The AC wiring?
Yes AC wiring I actually bought the same power supply and I thought I should just follow your wiring pattern but realized your AC wiring is wrong.
I don’t believe so, green yellow for ground, black for line, and red for neutral. That was how the original power supply on the printer was connected anyways!
That's nearly $200 worth of fans though.
Yes the power supply is also quite expensive. That’s why I tried to do these upgrades step by step to show what results you can expect from each
@DesktopInventions if your printer wasn't near your room or affecting your sleep, is there any benefit to the mod? Is it pure audible difference? Any benefits to parts cooling?
Silence and performing worst then original blhac
11:55 you can rotate the srew, than it is smaller
Yes I tried flipping the bolt the other direction but then it ran into the metal frame on the back side
Noctua fan runs hotter, I'd rather have a louder cooler hotend
Hasn’t caused me any issues yet. Perhaps I’ll do some testing with thermocouples one of these days.
You know there's a reason why the power supply has a fan right?
it's really important to cool your power supply or it will overheat and fail quickly especially in the small enclosed space it's in under the printer. It would be ok if you had the PSU out of the enclosure to allow for convection to happen at least naturally.
Yes, what your saying is generally best practice, but this power supply is running at 40% load typically so it doesn’t struggle too much with heat buildup. I will plan to make a video later monitoring the temperatures of components to show how they’re performing.
Good video. Btw, your extruder is mounted at the back of the gantry. The fans you replaced with Noctuas were on the hotend.
Thanks for the clarification on that!
Litterly 2 years 2 late...... There are dozens and dozens of video's about making this printer almost noise free..... With exact the same upgrades you mentioned....... Why re-invent the wheel?
I wanted to document and show the various sound improvements 1 by 1 and the impact of each change. Also changing the power supply and using 3 noctua fans on the printing head isn’t something I’ve seen before.
So, change everything with noctua and you should be good HAHA
Yea pretty much, find sources of noise and eliminate or replace with quieter solutions
I just don't understand the whole "noisy" printer thing. At it's core a 3d printer is a machine and machines make noise. At 60 decibels stock, a printer is not much louder than a household refrigerator or a business office.
Good video though
Yea everyone has their noise tolerance threshold, wives also are sometimes not as understanding about having “machines” in the house haha. Also there are many people with 3D printers that think tinkering and upgrading the machines are half the fun to it 😀
and new fans cost more that whole printer xD
Haha not quite. Fans plus the power supply might be close if you find a good deal on the printer
Hate when people say it's almost silent when somethings in the range of 30db, that's not even remotely close to silent. Manufacturers are the worst though they claim something silent they make when it's anything but. 3fb is loud as fuck in a silent room haha
Yea in the 3D printing world I’d say it’s relatively very quiet. Also I’m not sure my phone dB recorder is that accurate, the quietest I’ve recorded my apartment is 27dB