That 66.2 at the rear wheel is nothing to sneeze at; Wow! The advertised output on my two 2012 Triumphs (865cc) is 67 Bonneville SE and 68 on the Thruxton; they are heavier by quite a bit and have 5-speed gearboxes. Your Enfield should be an absolute stormer with that kind of power. Nice fat torque and steady gain on the horsepower curve with no flat spots. Phenomenal. Huge rewards for all your work; thanks for the information.
I have enjoyed watching your channel, and you whole Big Bore Project. I currently own a 2001 Honda Shadow ACE750, 2004 Honda ST1300, and April 21,2023 I will be taking delivery of my 2003 Suzuki GSXR600, it has been in lay away. I really want a 650GT, but CF Moto has a cafe 700 CLX700 what 74/hp, and 50 ft lbs torque, and the price is of these bike are close. You have an awesome looking bike, and sounding bike. Please keep us up dated, and enjoy the ride!
The 17T sprocket will certainly affect your 0-60 times on the road but it won't change the shape of your torque and power curves on a dyno. Assuming the same camshaft profile and timing, the differences between yours and a Hitchcock tune will be as you alluded, the the filters and also exhaust. Shorter inlet and exhaust runners will tend to favour higher rev performance. For a rider who likes to twist the throttle the more linear power curve of your bike will be the more enjoyable of the two. Nice job.
If I drop back down to a 15 tooth, knowing that HP is a function of torque at a given RPM, meaning higher torque at any RPM will equal more HP, do you think I would get higher HP numbers at the Rev limiter? I will definitely have more torque with fewer teeth. And the limiting factor is the rev limiter, not it being unable to achieve RPMs. What do you think about that? As long as I can still hit the rev limiter in 6th gear, and based on the expected torque increases, I would think that I would see a higher HP number. The math says over 70 if the only thing changing is the torque. I'll have less top end, I know that. I kind of want to try it, but I don't want to make another dyno appointment.
@@OakInch Changing the gearing will not affect the power or torque of the engine or what the dyno reads. When you ride a bicycle you are the power unit and can produce 1 Oakinch of power. You have the the same 1 Oakinch of power capacity available in 1st gear or 12th gear. Sure you accelerate a lot faster in 1st and can achieve a higher top speed in 12th but you might be faster in 11th if 1 Oakinch of power isn't enough to achieve your maximum output in 12th. Same power unit. Same power irrespective of gear ratio.
@@bobbyblueace I am fixing this response. I think I found the flaw in my logic. The HP RPM number is measured at the wheel RPMs, not the engine RPMs. If I increase the torque using gearing, the wheel speed will drop the same percentage amount at any given engine RPM. So the dyno won't change. Thanks for helping me think this over.
wow I was not expecting this vid from you. Got up at 5:30 am Toronto, Ontario time to look for latest news on Ukraine and here was your vid. I didn't know you were going to do a Dyno Run. I think that Dyno monitor may be recording a bit lower than other dyno's it's probably more like 68 HP at the back wheel, that would be about 73HP at the crank, WOW very cool bro, I love it. Your vids are extremely credible, it's clear you are just a Royal Enfield owner just like the rest of us, you are not a shop that may have Allterior motives (selling us stuff). You are just a Royal 650 owner documenting your changes/customs to your Royal, there is no need to question what you are documenting. I have one question, if you don't mind, you are using a power commander as far as I know the power commander cannot change the ignition timing. I for the life of me can't remember the name of the ECU that Revelry says allows you to change the timing, do you think changing the ECU and being able to advance the timing would allow you to gain more or is it worth it, was there a specific reason why you decided to go with the power commander? Mr Oakinch, Thank you for documenting all of this so well.
Thanks! Mainly I started recording stuff that couldn't find any information on. I'm just documenting stuff. I went with Power Commander 6 because that was what was recommended when I did the big bore upgrade. I changed to a 5 because the 6 was too locked down for me. I think the ECU tuner you are speaking of might be Powertronic. Something I learned in a RR video as that advancing or retarding the Cam in the RE 650, when you install it, can have the effect of changing the ignition timing. That is done by not lining up the L line correctly. I think it was in their cam video. I was really just trying to avoid advancing it retarding it during the install. It is something I am going to verify next time I check the valves. You might want to check that video and see if you need it electronically adjusted or not.
@@OakInch Thank you for getting back to me, sorry it took me so long to thank you, I thought I had and I just noticed I had not. How rude of me. Cheers.
Hi @Oakinch, that's really impressive! well done! In my 865, as you've seen, the power curve starts to drop at around 6700rpm. Maybe I'll try the airbox delete at some point and see whether it can keep going up! Great video! Thanks!
Reverlry do the Powertronic VR & with optional rev extender so you're not hitting the rev limiter while going up the gears $630au so $350US & that'll help down low.
I’m wondering if you step up the exhaust to a S&S 2 to 1, how much of a difference your specs might make. Nevertheless, this is a legendary (and inspiring) build. Your passion truly paid off. Thanks for sharing. 🤙
Thanks! I am to the point where cutting weight is going to be the biggest bang for the buck. It might make sense to do a 2-1 and remove one side of the pipes if I keep going.
Dang your motorcycle is fast compared to my stock 650 gt also I'm very impressed with everything you've done to your continental gt 865 😍 also how comfortable is your seat ?
Thanks! The seat is nice for me. The guy who tuned it for a couple hours didn't complain either. The leaned forward position can be a little uncomfortable on the arms after an hour or so. That is all I really notice.
I think it is actually just about 70 at the wheel right now. I dropped down from a 17 tooth sprocket to a 16 tooth. That should have mathematically increased my torque by 7%, which would in turn increase my HP by the same. HP = torque x RPMs divided by 5252. Also, the 16 tooth will get you over 60 mph in second gear. So I got my 0-60 down to 4.2 seconds.
@@SvenTviking Nice! I am thinking about going back to a 15 tooth sprocket just to get a dyno test with that higher torque. Using a 17 tooth is reducing my torque by 13%, which is doing the same to my HP numbers--Due to HP = torque x RPM divided by 5252. I can't raise RPMs due to rev limiter, but I can increase the torque. It should be around 73 HP. It will be a cool experiment to verify that.
Thanks! There is a way to up the RPM limiter in Power Commander 5. I don't know if it works on this bike or not. I think I could get some more HP out of it if I did that.
Impressive! Do you know if i will have some hp or torque with exhaust + filter only? I already changed the exhaust, the final part only, and i felt a little loss of power. If i will change the filter, i will have better performance? Or its better all oem?
Yes, you should get an increase, with a couple caveats. Basically, you want air out and air in to be as good as possible. Then add fuel to match it. If you get a power commander to change your fueling, you can get a map to add fuel to match the exhaust. I think the PC 6 and PC5 both have maps you can download from the vendor for a full exhaust. But if you do enough to the bike, you are going to have to get a professional tune. If you want to maximize the bike without a big bore, get a full exhaust, remove the air box (I have a video on this), use pod filters, Then get a Power Commander 5 or 6 and get a dynotune. Going to pod filters, and getting a tune, is a bigger effect than than the DNA filter upgrade in the air box. The air box is crazy restrictive. It is the bottleneck at higher RPMS.
@@OakInch Nice. I don't pretend to go that far rs. I want to stay with the exhaust (no full type) and change the filter, that's it. In this case, do you think is better use OEM cover or stage 2 DNA kit?
@@brunom9132 You do want to remove the OEM filter cover. I am pretty sure that is doing as much as the filter itself. There are a few replacements out there. They all allow more air to to enter the air box.
@@brunom9132 That is not what I was saying. There are different brands that make the same part to hold in the new filter and replace the OEM cover. You don't have to buy the DNA cover replacement.
It has been up to 115 as recorded on the dyno sheet. I think the speed limit is caused by the rev limiter. I would expect it to hit between 113 and 118 based on a 13% increase due to gearing. But I have not done a real world top speed run yet. I am planning to do one, but I am waiting on parts for two more upcoming projects right now. One of the projects is going to be pretty interesting and good for rideability. I keep thinking I am done with this project, but I can't put down my wrench! So TLDR, a top speed run is coming!
I assume you could do it by adjusting the fuel in the power commander map down a little. When I had the PC6 with the Hitchcocks map, it sounded pretty slow revved at idle. I thought it was near stalling often. But it never did. So, probably.
to nie tak 😉👍🏻 po 1 niepatrz na wykres momentu obrotowego bo on ci 💩 powie bez poprzeliczania wszystkiego ,patrz na wykres mocy tylko twoj setup buduje gwaltownie moc praktycznie az do odcinki vs ten hiczkoka ma szerszy pik ty masz niby 1,5 hp wiecej na kole ale cisnienie opony rodzaj itd niewiadomo jakie bylo standaryzacje zalozmy ze te same byly ,co sie liczy pod przyspieszenia na duzej roznicy predkosci jak np 0-100 100-160 to moc srednia albo pole powierzhcni pod wykresem mocy najwieksze i tu mimo ze masz 1,5 hp wiecej w piku sie okazuje ze setup hiczkoka na 1 ,2,3 biegu ma do dyspozycji nieco wiecej mocy sredniej do napedu tak naprawde dzieki szerszemu pikowi mimo ze ma nieco mniej mocy max w samym piku 👍🏻 wraz z wyzsyzm biegiem roznice w sredniej mocy sie zmniejszaja na 4 twoj setup juz prawie uzywa tyle co hitczkoka na 5 i6 juz praktycznie tyle samo bo tu roznice w dlugosci miedzy przelozeniami sa najmniejsze na 6 od 6500 rpm /157 km/h na seryjnym przelzoniu twoj setup juz bedzie szybszy az do vmaxa 175 na ogranicnziku 👍🏻 z 4 na 5 jest 1,15 okolo z5 na 6 1,083 okolo a np z 1 na 2 prawie 1,5 = 1,443 setup hiczkoka musi zmieniac biegi na takich rpm zeby bylo najszybciej 👍🏻👉🏻 z1 na 2 na prawie 7 tys rpm z 2 na 3 na 6700 rpm z 3 na 4 na 6600 rpm z 4 na 5 na jeszcze nizszych i z 5 na 6 na najnizszych rpm 😎👍🏻 vs twoj setup musisz zawsze zmieniac na 7250 rpm zeby bylo najszybciej 👌🏻 z czym sie wiarze zagrozenie ze zapeolosz zakazdym razem w odcinke na czym stracisz pare dziesoatych sek np 0-100 km/h pozatym ze setup hiczkoka jest bardziej wybaczajacy bledy i bedzie szybszy od 0 do 100 km/h o 0,2-0,3 sec okolo bo na wyzszej predkosci roznice jak pisalem zaczna sie zacierac wraz z zmniejszajacymi sie roznicami wdlugosci miedzy przleozeniami przez zblizona moc srednia uzyta do napedu to setup hiczkoka ma silniejszy dol i srodek az do 6500 rpm generuje wiecej mocy i momentu w efekcie niemusi tak slizgac mocno sprzegla palic na starcie jak twoj setup i na tym samym przelozeniu fabrycznym od niskich do 6500 rpm bedzie elastyczniejsza 👌🏻 ja bym wybral setup hiczkoka 👌🏻no na 5 k rpm setup hiczkoka ma 58 hp na kole a twoj zaledwie 51 👌🏻 na tym samym przelozeniu proba elastyki np 4 bieg 80-120 km/h czyli 4000 do 6000 rpm setup hiczkoka zostawi twoj fest z tylu 🤭 na 6 z 4000 rpm do 6000 rpm pd 100 do 140 km/h to samo twoj setup bedzie zostawal z tylu na tych samych zebatkach fabrycznych 👌🏻+ mowisz tam aptrzac na wykres nm ze po zmianie bedzie mial tam malo nm dostepne wiec no z 1 na 2 ppd 0-100 km/h masz shiftlajts zmiane na 7 k rpm na setupie hiczkoka i :1:443 = obroty na 2 startuja z 4,75 k rpm okolo sprawdz na wykresie ile nm tam jest 😉👌🏻 praktycznie max 👍🏻 …. tyle ze to kfa niema znaczenia 🤭 na wyzszych rpm nizszym momencie na tym wykresie np jakby roznica miedzy 1 a2 byla 1,3 i obroty na 2 by startowaly z 5,4 k rpm to na wykresie momentu obrotowego masz startowo mniej nm niz na 4,75 k rom ale to moc sie tu liczy anie moment obrotowy i na 5,4 k rom amsz wiecej mocy na mniejszym momencie = wieksze pieolniecie startowo na 2 biegu 👍🏻😎tak czy owak ja bym wolal setup hiczkoka 👍🏻 elastyczniejszy szerszy pik mniejsze prawdopodobienstwo ze zaepiesz w ogranicnzik chyba ze niewiesz co robisz i trzymasz do odcinki zalazdym razem bo ci niepokazali wykresu sily na kole na kazdym biegu gdzie sie linie przecinaja /zmiany biegu 👍🏻 bedzie mial setup hiczkoka kedynie mniejszy vmax na seryjnym przelozeniu w srednich wmaire dobrych warunkach bo w zlych moze miec wiekszy np pod wiatr pod gorke itd 👍🏻 nie co ja posze re continentale gt 650 odcinaja na 7250 rpm na 175 km/h gps wiec przy tym tunie z 65 hp na kole oba zajepia w ogranicnzyk na 6 jak sliwka w kompot 👌🏻👍🏻 nawet pod spory wiatr i pod dosc spory podjazd .,na poziomie bez wiatru w srednich warunkach 20 c 1000 hpa itd opona 2,5 bara na zimno naked z cda 0,5 i 48-49 kw na kole przekroczy 190 km/h gps pod 195 km/h wtedy sily oporu sie zrownaja z sila na kole +/- tak ze na seryjnym przelozeniu na poziomie wykufia w ogranicznik oba jak dzik w szyszki 👍🏻 co ja pieole hiczkoka setup na ogranicnziku ma 55 hp tylko to mniej mocno iderzy w ogranicznik ale tez bez problemu z duzym zapasem go osiagnie 👍🏻 dobra nie az z tak duzym 183-184 km/h na 55 hp na kole dla takiego nakeda jest do osiagniecia pod standaryzowane warunki vs 175 ogranicznik a twoj setup ze 193-194 by poszed na optymalnym przelozniu 👍🏻 tak czy owak ja biore setup hiczkoka 👍🏻 chyba ze rozpoeroli cos w silniku szybko to twoj 🤐 srednio lubie stac na jakims zadupiu z korba wyjeaana z boku silnika 👍🏻
I would love to do more dyno testing to check out theories with different sprockets and tunes. I have done a lot of timed testing with the dragy. I have this tune down to 4.2 seconds 0-60 with a 16 tooth sprocket. I would point out 2 things as to why the hitchcocks map was almost 1.5 seconds slower than the tune in a 0-60 and other speed tests. The first is that their HP numbers peak faster and are charted with a 15 tooth from sprocket. They peak a lower wheel speed. And when they up shift, at the higher revs, which is where the upshifting will all take place, they are at a 20% HP deficit to the tune. We are looking at a 7500 RPM range. That is not high. The Hitchcock's map powerband is way too low. The hitchcocks map will only ever see their highest HP numbers in 1st gear. After that they will be constantly above 6k RPMS, where they have no power. The HP on the tune here is way more efficient with the HP holding steady higher up. Also, the hitchcock's map was noticeably slower. I don't even know if I was getting what they have on their chart. It map have just been a bad map. I know there are a lot of other factors, to include my personal lack of skills. But all the real world testing I did indicated the custom tune and the revelry tune were superior.
@@OakInch yea 1,5 sec slower so +4,2 = 5,7 sec whch is stock results with 41-42 whp 🤐😂 🫣… upshift on hichckoks setup should take places where im write not at rev limiter almost except 1 gear at 7000 rpm around cos diffrences betweeen 1 and 2 is huge 😉👌🏻 ….7500 ? reallly with 7250 rpm limiter 🤐🤷🏻♂️…it will see their highest hp alll the way to 157 km/h on stock gearing asssuming this upshifts which im write 😉👌🏻 it be on 99% 0,2-0,3 sec faster than your setup than 😎👌🏻 ….sprocket have almost nothingto do with power 😉👌🏻what only can make hiczkoknsetup slower 0-60 mph is shorter gearing asssuming he must upshifts 2 times and end 0-60 on 3 gear vs you 1 times and end on 2 gear 🤭 1 upshifts more is like 0,3 sec longer time 👍🏻 depending on what speeed range you measured 👍🏻 0-60 on 1 ups more can be slower be 0,1 but 0-50 or up to speeed before 2 ups faster 😉👌🏻 and above 60 mph from mph where 2 ups hapen in your setup 👌🏻 to faster after setup perfect sprocket in hitczkok setup it be faster 0-60 mph and upshift on correct rpm for each gear not 7500 which in fact never ovccure as rpm limiter kick in at 7250 rpm 🤷🏻♂️😉👍🏻 i have sv 650 s 1999 its 62-63 hp bike at whelll with power characteristic closer to hiczkok wide peak with power drop down close to rev limiter 280 kg with rider clock 0-60 in 3,5 sec 👌🏻 in best atttempt add 40 kg inertia for level weight whats rider weight anyway on your setp cpnti gt weight 217 kg fulll tank 👌🏻 ok let say 40 kg more add this to me sv and first 60 ft stay the same with the same weight distribution just clutch more sliding after this add inertia start kick in it do at 280 kg 30-60 mph in 1,9 sec at 320 kg it be 1,9 x 1,15 = 2,185 + 1,6sec = around 3,8 sec 🤷🏻♂️ yur best was what 4,2 sec ? and me sv also need only 1 ups before hit 60 mph on draggy/ racebox 👌🏻….
@@mociczyczki It is possible that the Hitchcocks map might do better with different gearing. Shifting at 4k is only going to make a 0-60 take longer with extra shifts. In the real world, the Hitchcocks map did not perform well. It had the wrong fuel air ratios. I was getting 10 more mpg than stock. I could feel it and the dragy numbers showed it. I do not think it would have helped. I do not think it actually gives these numbers. Also I pulled out the air box which made a big difference. My best option was a custom tune. I am currently running a 16 tooth sprocket, which was how I got to 4.2 secs and still the same number of shifts as with the 17 tooth. My power curve right now probably looks a little different. I would like to dyno it again and see what it looks like.
@@OakInch what 4000 rpm upshifts🫣 on hiczkok setupmust be as i write earlier you must watch on power graph not torque graph 👍🏻 1 ups at 7 k rpm maybe lil earlier 6,9-6,8 k rpm 2 lil earlier 3 lil earlier 4 lil earlier with 5 ups at 6,3-6,4 k rpm for stay as close to peak power as posibble alll the way on acceleration attempt tahn acceleration be best unlesss very specific speed range diffrence than you can lil stay longer on lower gear for not ups 1 more but on bogger diffrences in velocity like 1/4 mille except last pahse depend on gearing rpm power graph rpm limiter and finish line palcement thats how im write not lower defenitely not 4 k rpm where it have 46 hp at whelll only vs you want stay as close to bewteen 5,5 ad 6,5 k rom so max power rpm as posible not higher rpm where power drop down and not lower where it increase 👌🏻😎 and not that high like your setup 👍🏻 ok perfect upshifts for hiczkok setup goes like ghis 👉🏻 1 7100 rpm with 2 gear start at 4900 rpm 2 6750 rpm with 3 start at 5300 rpm 3 6500 rpm with 4 start at 5400 rpm 4 6300 rpm with 5 start at 5500 rpm 5 6200 rpm with 6 start at around 5700 rpm than most avg power be use for acceleration thrpugh whole velocity range from stand still to vmax 👍🏻👍🏻🌪️from graph on each gear this can slightly change due to on each gear power due to diffrent tire deflection can slightly change here and there on graph but more less it shpuld go like this 😉👌🏻4 k rom upshifts give me a break dude 🤮🫣😎if hiczkok setup be tune in such way it would have 64 whp from let say 5 to 7 k rpm despite have 1,5 hp less he would absolutely smoked your setup cos than 100 % peak power be as avg power for acceleration 👌🏻
@@OakInchdobra bylem sprawdzic dokaldnie raceboxem 0-30 i 0-60 mph sv 650 s 1999 czy dobrze napisalem te 3,5 sek bo do tej poryw sprawdzalem tylko 0-100 km/h 😉 zrobilem 5-8 prob kilka razy 2 mi nieweszla 🫣 musialem uzywac sprzegla zeby zaczela whcodzic tak czy owak najlepsze proby to 1,5 0-30 mph i 3,5 0-60 mph z 1 ft On niewiem jak ty mierqzysz na dragim z 1 ft On czy off 🤷🏻♂️ ….masa z kierowca i polowa zbiornika 263 kg na szerokim piku 62-63 hp na kole 👍🏻 po dodaniu masy zalozmy ze ty masz 100 kg conti gt 210 kg z polowa zbiornika czy troche ponad tu mala adnotacja paliwo w zbiorniku w probach 0-60 mph nie dokonca przeszkadza jako dodtakowy balast ktory silnik musi uciagnac 😎 czemu ? bo pomaga ta dodatkowa masa trzymac przednie kolo na pierwszych metrach na glebie w efekcie sam start na poerwszych metrach moze byc troche szybszy na wiekszej predkosci przed 60 mph zacznie tracic setne dzieisate sek na przyspieszeniu prz3z dodatkowa mase w wyniku koncowym moze byc blisko dla kazdej wersji 👍🏻 w efekcie pelen czy pusty prawie zbiornik moze niebyc roznic albo moze byc troche syzbciej dla dowolnej konfiguracji zaleznie od paru innych czynnikow 😉👌🏻 tak czy owak zakaldajac ze twoj zestaw wazy 310 kg moj 263 kg to masz 310:263 =1,18 raz wieksza bezwladnosc do napedu twoj setup ma ale pierwsze 60 ft bedzie bez roznicy dla sv 650 s po dodaniu dotakowej masy 47kg gdyz wyrownalbym roznice startem z wyzszych obrotow na wiekszej mocy na wiekszym poslizgu sprzegla tak ze 0-30 mph byloby praktycznie w tym samym czasie co na 263 kg 😎👌🏻 jedynie 30-60 mozna podliczyc jako 2x1,18 = 2,36 sek + 1,5 = 3,86 sek 😎🤷🏻♂️ szeroki pik 62-63 hp z jedna zmiana przed 60 mph robi 3,86 sek po dodaniu masy zeby bylo tao samo co u cebie vs twpj serup na gwlatownie rosnacej mocy z waskim pikiem z 66 hp na kole robi 4,2 sec w najlepiej twojej probie jak piszesz 🤷🏻♂️ pomierzylem tez sobie 1/4 mili po dokreceniu wydechu przy kolektorze co powodwalo strzelanie z wydechu i utrate paru hp na maxa do 9,5-10 k rpm najlepsze proby schodzily do 12,2 sec /171,5 km/h na raceboxie potem jeszcze soe sprawdzilem na kazdym biegu pokolej zmiana na 7 k rpm i wyszlo 0-60 mph 4,0 sec i 13,0 sek /162 km/h 👍🏻
They are custom after market clipons. Here is a video of another guy doing the install: ua-cam.com/video/nit9nNQRqFw/v-deo.html . If you by the RE fork gators, they come with instructions that will pretty much cover everything you need to do also.
@@OakInch oh nice, i have seen couple others on youtube lowering the stock clipons and yours looked like that, have you ever thought of lowering the stock ones? and im not yet sure if its possible to lower the stock ones
@@enderzebak2863 I have done it. I actually got them under the top of the triple clamp. But you might as well get a real set if you do that. You have to remove the same parts, and it looks better.
Too much. Haha. As far as what is currently on the bike, Performance mods, including tools, exhaust, big bore, cam, clutch, airbox, power commander, sprocket, tires, brakes, etc were about 5,000 USD. Labor was free! Cosmetic mods like seat, mirrors, paint, blinkers, etc were probably about 1,000 USD. Free labor on that too. There is a bunch of stuff I bought that didn't end up being used. Moneywise, you are probably better off buying a new bike with everything you want, rather than going this route on purpose. But, if you just have the modification itch, this is a good bike to work on and learn maintenance tasks.
That 66.2 at the rear wheel is nothing to sneeze at; Wow! The advertised output on my two 2012 Triumphs (865cc) is 67 Bonneville SE and 68 on the Thruxton; they are heavier by quite a bit and have 5-speed gearboxes. Your Enfield should be an absolute stormer with that kind of power. Nice fat torque and steady gain on the horsepower curve with no flat spots. Phenomenal. Huge rewards for all your work; thanks for the information.
You are welcome, Frederick!
I have enjoyed watching your channel, and you whole Big Bore Project. I currently own a 2001 Honda Shadow ACE750, 2004 Honda ST1300, and April 21,2023 I will be taking delivery of my 2003 Suzuki GSXR600, it has been in lay away. I really want a 650GT, but CF Moto has a cafe 700 CLX700 what 74/hp, and 50 ft lbs torque, and the price is of these bike are close. You have an awesome looking bike, and sounding bike. Please keep us up dated, and enjoy the ride!
The 17T sprocket will certainly affect your 0-60 times on the road but it won't change the shape of your torque and power curves on a dyno. Assuming the same camshaft profile and timing, the differences between yours and a Hitchcock tune will be as you alluded, the the filters and also exhaust. Shorter inlet and exhaust runners will tend to favour higher rev performance. For a rider who likes to twist the throttle the more linear power curve of your bike will be the more enjoyable of the two. Nice job.
If I drop back down to a 15 tooth, knowing that HP is a function of torque at a given RPM, meaning higher torque at any RPM will equal more HP, do you think I would get higher HP numbers at the Rev limiter? I will definitely have more torque with fewer teeth. And the limiting factor is the rev limiter, not it being unable to achieve RPMs. What do you think about that? As long as I can still hit the rev limiter in 6th gear, and based on the expected torque increases, I would think that I would see a higher HP number. The math says over 70 if the only thing changing is the torque. I'll have less top end, I know that. I kind of want to try it, but I don't want to make another dyno appointment.
@@OakInch Changing the gearing will not affect the power or torque of the engine or what the dyno reads. When you ride a bicycle you are the power unit and can produce 1 Oakinch of power. You have the the same 1 Oakinch of power capacity available in 1st gear or 12th gear. Sure you accelerate a lot faster in 1st and can achieve a higher top speed in 12th but you might be faster in 11th if 1 Oakinch of power isn't enough to achieve your maximum output in 12th. Same power unit. Same power irrespective of gear ratio.
@@bobbyblueace I am fixing this response. I think I found the flaw in my logic. The HP RPM number is measured at the wheel RPMs, not the engine RPMs. If I increase the torque using gearing, the wheel speed will drop the same percentage amount at any given engine RPM. So the dyno won't change. Thanks for helping me think this over.
Thank you for beating me to it about the sprocket thing lol
wow I was not expecting this vid from you. Got up at 5:30 am Toronto, Ontario time to look for latest news on Ukraine and here was your vid. I didn't know you were going to do a Dyno Run. I think that Dyno monitor may be recording a bit lower than other dyno's it's probably more like 68 HP at the back wheel, that would be about 73HP at the crank, WOW very cool bro, I love it. Your vids are extremely credible, it's clear you are just a Royal Enfield owner just like the rest of us, you are not a shop that may have Allterior motives (selling us stuff). You are just a Royal 650 owner documenting your changes/customs to your Royal, there is no need to question what you are documenting. I have one question, if you don't mind, you are using a power commander as far as I know the power commander cannot change the ignition timing. I for the life of me can't remember the name of the ECU that Revelry says allows you to change the timing, do you think changing the ECU and being able to advance the timing would allow you to gain more or is it worth it, was there a specific reason why you decided to go with the power commander?
Mr Oakinch, Thank you for documenting all of this so well.
Thanks! Mainly I started recording stuff that couldn't find any information on. I'm just documenting stuff. I went with Power Commander 6 because that was what was recommended when I did the big bore upgrade. I changed to a 5 because the 6 was too locked down for me. I think the ECU tuner you are speaking of might be Powertronic. Something I learned in a RR video as that advancing or retarding the Cam in the RE 650, when you install it, can have the effect of changing the ignition timing. That is done by not lining up the L line correctly. I think it was in their cam video. I was really just trying to avoid advancing it retarding it during the install. It is something I am going to verify next time I check the valves. You might want to check that video and see if you need it electronically adjusted or not.
@@OakInch Thank you for getting back to me, sorry it took me so long to thank you, I thought I had and I just noticed I had not. How rude of me. Cheers.
Hi @Oakinch, that's really impressive! well done! In my 865, as you've seen, the power curve starts to drop at around 6700rpm. Maybe I'll try the airbox delete at some point and see whether it can keep going up! Great video! Thanks!
Thanks!
Reverlry do the Powertronic VR & with optional rev extender so you're not hitting the rev limiter while going up the gears $630au so $350US & that'll help down low.
I’m wondering if you step up the exhaust to a S&S 2 to 1, how much of a difference your specs might make.
Nevertheless, this is a legendary (and inspiring) build. Your passion truly paid off.
Thanks for sharing. 🤙
Thanks! I am to the point where cutting weight is going to be the biggest bang for the buck. It might make sense to do a 2-1 and remove one side of the pipes if I keep going.
you are in good tourque numbers throughout a wide rpm range, nice and flat really, Thats good for a street bike, if you ask me.
Thanks!
@@OakInch look up the anti-gravity battery. should be lighter, and vary strong charge. ⚡
Dang your motorcycle is fast compared to my stock 650 gt also I'm very impressed with everything you've done to your continental gt 865 😍 also how comfortable is your seat ?
Thanks! The seat is nice for me. The guy who tuned it for a couple hours didn't complain either. The leaned forward position can be a little uncomfortable on the arms after an hour or so. That is all I really notice.
@@OakInch Is that the K-speed seat?
@@buzzinadventures4217 That is the MK Designs India Cafe Racer seat. The version with no cowl.
NO WAY DUDE!!! 66???!!! Thats such a huge jump!!
I think it is actually just about 70 at the wheel right now. I dropped down from a 17 tooth sprocket to a 16 tooth. That should have mathematically increased my torque by 7%, which would in turn increase my HP by the same. HP = torque x RPMs divided by 5252. Also, the 16 tooth will get you over 60 mph in second gear. So I got my 0-60 down to 4.2 seconds.
My Interceptor, 865 kit, stage 2 cam, free flow filter, free flow exhaust apart from decibel killers, 69.21 hp, 59.54 ft/lbs of torque on PDQ dyno.
@@SvenTviking Nice! I am thinking about going back to a 15 tooth sprocket just to get a dyno test with that higher torque. Using a 17 tooth is reducing my torque by 13%, which is doing the same to my HP numbers--Due to HP = torque x RPM divided by 5252. I can't raise RPMs due to rev limiter, but I can increase the torque. It should be around 73 HP. It will be a cool experiment to verify that.
I love the modifications you have done to it but I do wonder if the performance and the rpm can be increased somehow.
Thanks! There is a way to up the RPM limiter in Power Commander 5. I don't know if it works on this bike or not. I think I could get some more HP out of it if I did that.
Impressive! Do you know if i will have some hp or torque with exhaust + filter only?
I already changed the exhaust, the final part only, and i felt a little loss of power. If i will change the filter, i will have better performance? Or its better all oem?
Yes, you should get an increase, with a couple caveats. Basically, you want air out and air in to be as good as possible. Then add fuel to match it. If you get a power commander to change your fueling, you can get a map to add fuel to match the exhaust. I think the PC 6 and PC5 both have maps you can download from the vendor for a full exhaust. But if you do enough to the bike, you are going to have to get a professional tune. If you want to maximize the bike without a big bore, get a full exhaust, remove the air box (I have a video on this), use pod filters, Then get a Power Commander 5 or 6 and get a dynotune. Going to pod filters, and getting a tune, is a bigger effect than than the DNA filter upgrade in the air box. The air box is crazy restrictive. It is the bottleneck at higher RPMS.
@@OakInch Nice. I don't pretend to go that far rs. I want to stay with the exhaust (no full type) and change the filter, that's it. In this case, do you think is better use OEM cover or stage 2 DNA kit?
@@brunom9132 You do want to remove the OEM filter cover. I am pretty sure that is doing as much as the filter itself. There are a few replacements out there. They all allow more air to to enter the air box.
@@OakInch No! The options are: Only change the filter or change the filter + cover (dna metal trim)
@@brunom9132 That is not what I was saying. There are different brands that make the same part to hold in the new filter and replace the OEM cover. You don't have to buy the DNA cover replacement.
How’s the top speed look with the 17t sprocket? Did it make a difference
It has been up to 115 as recorded on the dyno sheet. I think the speed limit is caused by the rev limiter. I would expect it to hit between 113 and 118 based on a 13% increase due to gearing. But I have not done a real world top speed run yet. I am planning to do one, but I am waiting on parts for two more upcoming projects right now. One of the projects is going to be pretty interesting and good for rideability. I keep thinking I am done with this project, but I can't put down my wrench! So TLDR, a top speed run is coming!
Sweet can’t wait to see it. Thanks for the quick reply
Can you lower the idle of the bike down to 850 RPM from the stock 1150 rpm so that it sound more like a v twin ?
I assume you could do it by adjusting the fuel in the power commander map down a little. When I had the PC6 with the Hitchcocks map, it sounded pretty slow revved at idle. I thought it was near stalling often. But it never did. So, probably.
@@OakInch if you can a video of the slow idle sound would be much appreciated as no one else on UA-cam has tried it yet.
wow that awesome you did it .. have you check this videos " continental gt 865 bike with girl " and skunk machine X Royal Enfield . Cerra GT 865
I have seen a bunch of GT 650 videos. I know for sure the skunk machine one I have seen.
to nie tak 😉👍🏻 po 1 niepatrz na wykres momentu obrotowego bo on ci 💩 powie bez poprzeliczania wszystkiego ,patrz na wykres mocy tylko twoj setup buduje gwaltownie moc praktycznie az do odcinki vs ten hiczkoka ma szerszy pik ty masz niby 1,5 hp wiecej na kole ale cisnienie opony rodzaj itd niewiadomo jakie bylo standaryzacje zalozmy ze te same byly ,co sie liczy pod przyspieszenia na duzej roznicy predkosci jak np 0-100 100-160 to moc srednia albo pole powierzhcni pod wykresem mocy najwieksze i tu mimo ze masz 1,5 hp wiecej w piku sie okazuje ze setup hiczkoka na 1 ,2,3 biegu ma do dyspozycji nieco wiecej mocy sredniej do napedu tak naprawde dzieki szerszemu pikowi mimo ze ma nieco mniej mocy max w samym piku 👍🏻 wraz z wyzsyzm biegiem roznice w sredniej mocy sie zmniejszaja na 4 twoj setup juz prawie uzywa tyle co hitczkoka na 5 i6 juz praktycznie tyle samo bo tu roznice w dlugosci miedzy przelozeniami sa najmniejsze na 6 od 6500 rpm /157 km/h na seryjnym przelzoniu twoj setup juz bedzie szybszy az do vmaxa 175 na ogranicnziku 👍🏻 z 4 na 5 jest 1,15 okolo z5 na 6 1,083 okolo a np z 1 na 2 prawie 1,5 = 1,443 setup hiczkoka musi zmieniac biegi na takich rpm zeby bylo najszybciej 👍🏻👉🏻 z1 na 2 na prawie 7 tys rpm z 2 na 3 na 6700 rpm z 3 na 4 na 6600 rpm z 4 na 5 na jeszcze nizszych i z 5 na 6 na najnizszych rpm 😎👍🏻 vs twoj setup musisz zawsze zmieniac na 7250 rpm zeby bylo najszybciej 👌🏻 z czym sie wiarze zagrozenie ze zapeolosz zakazdym razem w odcinke na czym stracisz pare dziesoatych sek np 0-100 km/h pozatym ze setup hiczkoka jest bardziej wybaczajacy bledy i bedzie szybszy od 0 do 100 km/h o 0,2-0,3 sec okolo bo na wyzszej predkosci roznice jak pisalem zaczna sie zacierac wraz z zmniejszajacymi sie roznicami wdlugosci miedzy przleozeniami przez zblizona moc srednia uzyta do napedu to setup hiczkoka ma silniejszy dol i srodek az do 6500 rpm generuje wiecej mocy i momentu w efekcie niemusi tak slizgac mocno sprzegla palic na starcie jak twoj setup i na tym samym przelozeniu fabrycznym od niskich do 6500 rpm bedzie elastyczniejsza 👌🏻 ja bym wybral setup hiczkoka 👌🏻no na 5 k rpm setup hiczkoka ma 58 hp na kole a twoj zaledwie 51 👌🏻 na tym samym przelozeniu proba elastyki np 4 bieg 80-120 km/h czyli 4000 do 6000 rpm setup hiczkoka zostawi twoj fest z tylu 🤭 na 6 z 4000 rpm do 6000 rpm pd 100 do 140 km/h to samo twoj setup bedzie zostawal z tylu na tych samych zebatkach fabrycznych 👌🏻+ mowisz tam aptrzac na wykres nm ze po zmianie bedzie mial tam malo nm dostepne wiec no z 1 na 2 ppd 0-100 km/h masz shiftlajts zmiane na 7 k rpm na setupie hiczkoka i :1:443 = obroty na 2 startuja z 4,75 k rpm okolo sprawdz na wykresie ile nm tam jest 😉👌🏻 praktycznie max 👍🏻 …. tyle ze to kfa niema znaczenia 🤭 na wyzszych rpm nizszym momencie na tym wykresie np jakby roznica miedzy 1 a2 byla 1,3 i obroty na 2 by startowaly z 5,4 k rpm to na wykresie momentu obrotowego masz startowo mniej nm niz na 4,75 k rom ale to moc sie tu liczy anie moment obrotowy i na 5,4 k rom amsz wiecej mocy na mniejszym momencie = wieksze pieolniecie startowo na 2 biegu 👍🏻😎tak czy owak ja bym wolal setup hiczkoka 👍🏻 elastyczniejszy szerszy pik mniejsze prawdopodobienstwo ze zaepiesz w ogranicnzik chyba ze niewiesz co robisz i trzymasz do odcinki zalazdym razem bo ci niepokazali wykresu sily na kole na kazdym biegu gdzie sie linie przecinaja /zmiany biegu 👍🏻 bedzie mial setup hiczkoka kedynie mniejszy vmax na seryjnym przelozeniu w srednich wmaire dobrych warunkach bo w zlych moze miec wiekszy np pod wiatr pod gorke itd 👍🏻 nie co ja posze re continentale gt 650 odcinaja na 7250 rpm na 175 km/h gps wiec przy tym tunie z 65 hp na kole oba zajepia w ogranicnzyk na 6 jak sliwka w kompot 👌🏻👍🏻 nawet pod spory wiatr i pod dosc spory podjazd .,na poziomie bez wiatru w srednich warunkach 20 c 1000 hpa itd opona 2,5 bara na zimno naked z cda 0,5 i 48-49 kw na kole przekroczy 190 km/h gps pod 195 km/h wtedy sily oporu sie zrownaja z sila na kole +/- tak ze na seryjnym przelozeniu na poziomie wykufia w ogranicznik oba jak dzik w szyszki 👍🏻 co ja pieole hiczkoka setup na ogranicnziku ma 55 hp tylko to mniej mocno iderzy w ogranicznik ale tez bez problemu z duzym zapasem go osiagnie 👍🏻 dobra nie az z tak duzym 183-184 km/h na 55 hp na kole dla takiego nakeda jest do osiagniecia pod standaryzowane warunki vs 175 ogranicznik a twoj setup ze 193-194 by poszed na optymalnym przelozniu 👍🏻 tak czy owak ja biore setup hiczkoka 👍🏻 chyba ze rozpoeroli cos w silniku szybko to twoj 🤐 srednio lubie stac na jakims zadupiu z korba wyjeaana z boku silnika 👍🏻
I would love to do more dyno testing to check out theories with different sprockets and tunes. I have done a lot of timed testing with the dragy. I have this tune down to 4.2 seconds 0-60 with a 16 tooth sprocket. I would point out 2 things as to why the hitchcocks map was almost 1.5 seconds slower than the tune in a 0-60 and other speed tests. The first is that their HP numbers peak faster and are charted with a 15 tooth from sprocket. They peak a lower wheel speed. And when they up shift, at the higher revs, which is where the upshifting will all take place, they are at a 20% HP deficit to the tune. We are looking at a 7500 RPM range. That is not high. The Hitchcock's map powerband is way too low. The hitchcocks map will only ever see their highest HP numbers in 1st gear. After that they will be constantly above 6k RPMS, where they have no power. The HP on the tune here is way more efficient with the HP holding steady higher up.
Also, the hitchcock's map was noticeably slower. I don't even know if I was getting what they have on their chart. It map have just been a bad map. I know there are a lot of other factors, to include my personal lack of skills. But all the real world testing I did indicated the custom tune and the revelry tune were superior.
@@OakInch yea 1,5 sec slower so +4,2 = 5,7 sec whch is stock results with 41-42 whp 🤐😂 🫣… upshift on hichckoks setup should take places where im write not at rev limiter almost except 1 gear at 7000 rpm around cos diffrences betweeen 1 and 2 is huge 😉👌🏻 ….7500 ? reallly with 7250 rpm limiter 🤐🤷🏻♂️…it will see their highest hp alll the way to 157 km/h on stock gearing asssuming this upshifts which im write 😉👌🏻 it be on 99% 0,2-0,3 sec faster than your setup than 😎👌🏻 ….sprocket have almost nothingto do with power 😉👌🏻what only can make hiczkoknsetup slower 0-60 mph is shorter gearing asssuming he must upshifts 2 times and end 0-60 on 3 gear vs you 1 times and end on 2 gear 🤭 1 upshifts more is like 0,3 sec longer time 👍🏻 depending on what speeed range you measured 👍🏻 0-60 on 1 ups more can be slower be 0,1 but 0-50 or up to speeed before 2 ups faster 😉👌🏻 and above 60 mph from mph where 2 ups hapen in your setup 👌🏻 to faster after setup perfect sprocket in hitczkok setup it be faster 0-60 mph and upshift on correct rpm for each gear not 7500 which in fact never ovccure as rpm limiter kick in at 7250 rpm 🤷🏻♂️😉👍🏻 i have sv 650 s 1999 its 62-63 hp bike at whelll with power characteristic closer to hiczkok wide peak with power drop down close to rev limiter 280 kg with rider clock 0-60 in 3,5 sec 👌🏻 in best atttempt add 40 kg inertia for level weight whats rider weight anyway on your setp cpnti gt weight 217 kg fulll tank 👌🏻 ok let say 40 kg more add this to me sv and first 60 ft stay the same with the same weight distribution just clutch more sliding after this add inertia start kick in it do at 280 kg 30-60 mph in 1,9 sec at 320 kg it be 1,9 x 1,15 = 2,185 + 1,6sec = around 3,8 sec 🤷🏻♂️ yur best was what 4,2 sec ? and me sv also need only 1 ups before hit 60 mph on draggy/ racebox 👌🏻….
@@mociczyczki It is possible that the Hitchcocks map might do better with different gearing. Shifting at 4k is only going to make a 0-60 take longer with extra shifts. In the real world, the Hitchcocks map did not perform well. It had the wrong fuel air ratios. I was getting 10 more mpg than stock. I could feel it and the dragy numbers showed it. I do not think it would have helped. I do not think it actually gives these numbers. Also I pulled out the air box which made a big difference. My best option was a custom tune. I am currently running a 16 tooth sprocket, which was how I got to 4.2 secs and still the same number of shifts as with the 17 tooth. My power curve right now probably looks a little different. I would like to dyno it again and see what it looks like.
@@OakInch what 4000 rpm upshifts🫣 on hiczkok setupmust be as i write earlier you must watch on power graph not torque graph 👍🏻 1 ups at 7 k rpm maybe lil earlier 6,9-6,8 k rpm 2 lil earlier 3 lil earlier 4 lil earlier with 5 ups at 6,3-6,4 k rpm for stay as close to peak power as posibble alll the way on acceleration attempt tahn acceleration be best unlesss very specific speed range diffrence than you can lil stay longer on lower gear for not ups 1 more but on bogger diffrences in velocity like 1/4 mille except last pahse depend on gearing rpm power graph rpm limiter and finish line palcement thats how im write not lower defenitely not 4 k rpm where it have 46 hp at whelll only vs you want stay as close to bewteen 5,5 ad 6,5 k rom so max power rpm as posible not higher rpm where power drop down and not lower where it increase 👌🏻😎 and not that high like your setup 👍🏻 ok perfect upshifts for hiczkok setup goes like ghis 👉🏻 1 7100 rpm with 2 gear start at 4900 rpm 2 6750 rpm with 3 start at 5300 rpm 3 6500 rpm with 4 start at 5400 rpm 4 6300 rpm with 5 start at 5500 rpm 5 6200 rpm with 6 start at around 5700 rpm than most avg power be use for acceleration thrpugh whole velocity range from stand still to vmax 👍🏻👍🏻🌪️from graph on each gear this can slightly change due to on each gear power due to diffrent tire deflection can slightly change here and there on graph but more less it shpuld go like this 😉👌🏻4 k rom upshifts give me a break dude 🤮🫣😎if hiczkok setup be tune in such way it would have 64 whp from let say 5 to 7 k rpm despite have 1,5 hp less he would absolutely smoked your setup cos than 100 % peak power be as avg power for acceleration 👌🏻
@@OakInchdobra bylem sprawdzic dokaldnie raceboxem 0-30 i 0-60 mph sv 650 s 1999 czy dobrze napisalem te 3,5 sek bo do tej poryw sprawdzalem tylko 0-100 km/h 😉 zrobilem 5-8 prob kilka razy 2 mi nieweszla 🫣 musialem uzywac sprzegla zeby zaczela whcodzic tak czy owak najlepsze proby to 1,5 0-30 mph i 3,5 0-60 mph z 1 ft On niewiem jak ty mierqzysz na dragim z 1 ft On czy off 🤷🏻♂️ ….masa z kierowca i polowa zbiornika 263 kg na szerokim piku 62-63 hp na kole 👍🏻 po dodaniu masy zalozmy ze ty masz 100 kg conti gt 210 kg z polowa zbiornika czy troche ponad tu mala adnotacja paliwo w zbiorniku w probach 0-60 mph nie dokonca przeszkadza jako dodtakowy balast ktory silnik musi uciagnac 😎 czemu ? bo pomaga ta dodatkowa masa trzymac przednie kolo na pierwszych metrach na glebie w efekcie sam start na poerwszych metrach moze byc troche szybszy na wiekszej predkosci przed 60 mph zacznie tracic setne dzieisate sek na przyspieszeniu prz3z dodatkowa mase w wyniku koncowym moze byc blisko dla kazdej wersji 👍🏻 w efekcie pelen czy pusty prawie zbiornik moze niebyc roznic albo moze byc troche syzbciej dla dowolnej konfiguracji zaleznie od paru innych czynnikow 😉👌🏻 tak czy owak zakaldajac ze twoj zestaw wazy 310 kg moj 263 kg to masz 310:263 =1,18 raz wieksza bezwladnosc do napedu twoj setup ma ale pierwsze 60 ft bedzie bez roznicy dla sv 650 s po dodaniu dotakowej masy 47kg gdyz wyrownalbym roznice startem z wyzszych obrotow na wiekszej mocy na wiekszym poslizgu sprzegla tak ze 0-30 mph byloby praktycznie w tym samym czasie co na 263 kg 😎👌🏻 jedynie 30-60 mozna podliczyc jako 2x1,18 = 2,36 sek + 1,5 = 3,86 sek 😎🤷🏻♂️ szeroki pik 62-63 hp z jedna zmiana przed 60 mph robi 3,86 sek po dodaniu masy zeby bylo tao samo co u cebie vs twpj serup na gwlatownie rosnacej mocy z waskim pikiem z 66 hp na kole robi 4,2 sec w najlepiej twojej probie jak piszesz 🤷🏻♂️ pomierzylem tez sobie 1/4 mili po dokreceniu wydechu przy kolektorze co powodwalo strzelanie z wydechu i utrate paru hp na maxa do 9,5-10 k rpm najlepsze proby schodzily do 12,2 sec /171,5 km/h na raceboxie potem jeszcze soe sprawdzilem na kazdym biegu pokolej zmiana na 7 k rpm i wyszlo 0-60 mph 4,0 sec i 13,0 sek /162 km/h 👍🏻
hello i have a question, how did you lower the clipons for your gt? is it custom clipon or just lowered the stock ones?
They are custom after market clipons. Here is a video of another guy doing the install: ua-cam.com/video/nit9nNQRqFw/v-deo.html . If you by the RE fork gators, they come with instructions that will pretty much cover everything you need to do also.
@@OakInch oh nice, i have seen couple others on youtube lowering the stock clipons and yours looked like that, have you ever thought of lowering the stock ones? and im not yet sure if its possible to lower the stock ones
@@enderzebak2863 I have done it. I actually got them under the top of the triple clamp. But you might as well get a real set if you do that. You have to remove the same parts, and it looks better.
Just wonder what the costs of all these mods are?
Too much. Haha. As far as what is currently on the bike, Performance mods, including tools, exhaust, big bore, cam, clutch, airbox, power commander, sprocket, tires, brakes, etc were about 5,000 USD. Labor was free! Cosmetic mods like seat, mirrors, paint, blinkers, etc were probably about 1,000 USD. Free labor on that too. There is a bunch of stuff I bought that didn't end up being used. Moneywise, you are probably better off buying a new bike with everything you want, rather than going this route on purpose. But, if you just have the modification itch, this is a good bike to work on and learn maintenance tasks.
@@OakInchwhat mirror's are those? thay have a classic look to them.
@@DANTHETUBEMAN The mirrors are the diablo mirrors for the RE 650s from k-speed dot net. You can probably get them on ebay.
@@OakInchThanks. I think the Tek two in to one gives more torque, and one less muffler in weight 😁