Great video for anyone who wants to tackle a Riello Burner, The only things i wish to comment on is the use of the multi-meter was set to Auto so some of the commentary readings provided were incorrect, so just be aware, when testing the Photo-resistor, the Ohms value will go down when there is more light and the readings for the Solenoid/Coil are different. For testing pins 1-2 expect in the region of 1.4 Kilo-Ohms and for pins 2-8 it is just 1.4 ohms. Many thanks, certainly helped me out!
Hi Steven I am an oil engineer from Scotland and I love watching your video's, It's just lately I came across them and am going through them all. I have been in the oil service and repair game for 40 years but I am learning a lot of tricks from you keep up the good work Louis.
Thanks , a troubleshooting flowchart brought me to a point where it said buy a new controller" for $80" which is not the end of the world, but it would have been money thrown away. after watching your video, i checked terminals 1&2 for 1400ohms which led to the coil $10. Thanks for posting :)
Hi Steven, Just want to say a big thanks. I found your videos very helpful.. By comparing the startup up of your Riello to mine, I was able to establish that the motor was not starting when it should... Given that the motor did start some of the time, I suspected the capacitor.. Pulled it out altogether and it measured almost 1 ohm ESR and only 0.94uF capacitance... Changed the cap yesterday, crossed my fingers and the motor has been starting every time since.. :-)
when you least expect it. excellent review! i got my notes now. i always change the obvious part but your diagnostics make my note pad for quick checks thanks! my riello manual filed away.
Hello I have a nuway nol 5 burner I have changed the oil pump nozzle control box and base control box and I can get the boiler started only if I switch it on and off a few times also when the thermostat cycles it won't restart unless I switch it on and off a few times I also changed the solenoid cable thanks I have learned a lot from your youtube channel
Steve You explained the CAD reading backwards! Your meter measures 7,000 ohms for low room light and 300 ohms for bright lamp light. The CAD reads high resistance for low light conditions and low resistance for bright light conditions.
But how do you check the control box to see if the electronic transformer is working or not? And during this checking when the motor is running, wouldn't the oil pump also run and spray out oil?
Hi steve english fan here like your vids just wondered if u can put me in the right direction been trying to get hold of the Riello oil handbook over here that u use for refrence but seem to run into brickwall over here is their somewhere i can buy it from usa
Fantastic explanation thanks . I am looking to install a new boiler myself in my home and I have Burnham / Beckkett oil and hit water unit , with 2 zones. Would you recommend me purchasing a Riello boiler and burner ? Just would like to install an excellent boiler and would like your opinion on it., and if so which one ?
Hello. I have a Gulliver Blu burner that has started to run intermittently. It runs for 3 secs and pause for about 12 secs. The water temp does not go above 45 C. On the display it says Error 50-4 and 51-4. Any idea what the problem might be=
I have a oil to propane conversation, can I got a switching relay from manufacturer, it's going on a veiszmen boiler for Heating. Is there anything else I require?
Has the ignition coil on this controler got two primarys? It has four wires entering the high voltage transformer and two outputs to the electrodes. Has it two primary windings? I was expecting two imput wires and two output connections to the electrodes.
Thanks for the video Steve. I know you don't give a flying crap..lol..but john accer asked about cad cells. They see infrared light and also the normal light spectrum that people see.
Crazy issue with my F5 .When motor starts it shortclcles rough 4 seconds for about 5 times then runs fine. Never locks out. filter /screen electrodes nozlle and control were replaced already. Is the motor on it`s way out possibly or cap? Tstat is calling. going use this test method tonight.
Had a similar problem with a Riello fitted with an air intake fitted on the cover. Without the intake fitted, the burner operated smoothly but when the intake was put back on the cover, it would occasionally short cycle. The air intake was not obstructed. I then found that due to the positions of the flue terminal and air intake cowl positioned near to some bushes, the bushes were not allowing the flue gases to escape to the atmosphere easily. As a result, the air intake was occasionally ingesting some of the flue gases which consequently caused a very brief starvation of air during the combustion process. The bushes were removed and the problem was eliminated.
Steve, My Riello 40 runs, but does not fire. I checked the oil valve solenoid and got 1.4 K ohms between 1 and 2 and between 1 and 8. The resistance was zero between 2 and 8 (blue and black), even in a new solenoid I got from Ebay. However, the burner sprays oil, which can be seen as a fine mist visible at the chamber window when the burner is started. I'm suspecting the primary control box to be faulty. Is there a way to test the primary control box and the igniter within it?
I think by process of elimination if your pump is still working and the sprayed mist does not ignite then there is not ignition (spark) meaning the transformer is not working. I am thinking you may want to connect leads 3 (neutral) and lead 5 (power) of the control box to 120 v AC power then cover the CAD cell and see if you would get sparks...
Yes. The whole point of the ceramic being there is to create an insulation barrier from the high voltage of the sparking electrode jumping prematurely to ground before it jumps to ground near the tip of the nozzle. Once those are cracked, the sparks are always going to try and find the easiest path to the metal ground, which is not the tips of the electrodes.
I asked that question to assess the transformer but no one answered. Have you found out how to test the control panel to see if the electronic transformer is still working?
The spark circuit is activated with a relay, so, the control unit removed will have on the spark connectors a small number of ohms. If it's either nothing at all, or shorted at 0 ohms, the secondary coil circuit is toast. You should also be able to get similar readings on the cool primary circuit by unscrewing the control unit base
Hey Steve, very useful videos thanks. I have an older Riello 40 G3, I have replace solenoid,photocell and nozzle recently, the burner runs fine for 10mins or so then cuts out, it tries to start but fails , the restart button does nothing then. Any idea what I should be looking at ?
+Clan Ryan have you checked the oil flow???? and pump screen?? sounds like you might have a oil problem ,it hard to say over a email unless i am there testing stuff .and running it hard to say whats going on .
+steven lavimoniere Hi Steve, I did take off the pump filter and clean it recently and also replaced the shutoff valve to oil tank. the tank is also lowish on oil so perhaps it isn't pulling it in properly
***** you can hear the transformer spark there is no way to test it with a screw drive not a reillo if you thing the transformer is bad change it out and see if she fires.
Is anybody have an idea why is furnace smoking,new fuel tank,lines,tigerloop,safety oil valve,ir has air supply straight to the burner but smoke is coming in the house through chimney?
Great video for anyone who wants to tackle a Riello Burner, The only things i wish to comment on is the use of the multi-meter was set to Auto so some of the commentary readings provided were incorrect, so just be aware, when testing the Photo-resistor, the Ohms value will go down when there is more light and the readings for the Solenoid/Coil are different. For testing pins 1-2 expect in the region of 1.4 Kilo-Ohms and for pins 2-8 it is just 1.4 ohms. Many thanks, certainly helped me out!
Hi Steven
I am an oil engineer from Scotland and I love watching your video's, It's just lately I came across them and am going through them all.
I have been in the oil service and repair game for 40 years but I am learning a lot of tricks from you keep up the good work
Louis.
Steve your series are super, great job and many thanks for your sharing the high skill you have mastered.
Thanks , a troubleshooting flowchart brought me to a point where it said buy a new controller" for $80" which is not the end of the world, but it would have been money thrown away. after watching your video, i checked terminals 1&2 for 1400ohms which led to the coil $10.
Thanks for posting :)
How do you know if the control panel is still working?
Hi Steven, Just want to say a big thanks. I found your videos very helpful.. By comparing the startup up of your Riello to mine, I was able to establish that the motor was not starting when it should... Given that the motor did start some of the time, I suspected the capacitor.. Pulled it out altogether and it measured almost 1 ohm ESR and only 0.94uF capacitance... Changed the cap yesterday, crossed my fingers and the motor has been starting every time since.. :-)
Vital Computing looks like you had a bad run cap .the uf will be on the side of the run cap most are 15 uf but depends on what burner you have
when you least expect it. excellent review! i got my notes now. i always change the obvious part but your diagnostics make my note pad for quick checks thanks! my riello manual filed away.
dino vistroni good luck with them
Hello I have a nuway nol 5 burner I have changed the oil pump nozzle control box and base control box and I can get the boiler started only if I switch it on and off a few times also when the thermostat cycles it won't restart unless I switch it on and off a few times I also changed the solenoid cable thanks I have learned a lot from your youtube channel
I’ve literally just learnt to carry out these checks today, good video mate 👍
Very interesting Steve and thanks for sharing how is wee Miss Molly lovely charming little dog :)
Thank you for this very detailed video , I have learnt a lot .Thanks
+Patrick Harte good luck
Thanks as always your videos have made me a better tech.
thanks jeff
Steve
You explained the CAD reading backwards! Your meter measures 7,000 ohms for low room light and 300 ohms for bright lamp light. The CAD reads high resistance for low light conditions and low resistance for bright light conditions.
Holy shit Steve your a young whipper snapper lol you still have that nice looking hot rod.
Very interesting. I'm a wiring and load freak. I like to see these thing's Steven pretty cool!!
thanks mike
I'm only getting 8.6 volts at 3-7, motor. Which part would cause that?
Is there lockout alarm on these ? There is a terminal “X” between N and L. How is this used ?
But how do you check the control box to see if the electronic transformer is working or not? And during this checking when the motor is running, wouldn't the oil pump also run and spray out oil?
Thanks for the video. How do you check the transformer to see if it is still working? Thanks.
What did you want to say about Riell burner? I found nothing what help me in work with this burner
Hi steve english fan here like your vids just wondered if u can put me in the right direction been trying to get hold of the Riello oil handbook over here that u use for refrence but seem to run into brickwall over here is their somewhere i can buy it from usa
Fantastic explanation thanks . I am looking to install a new boiler myself in my home and I have Burnham / Beckkett oil and hit water unit , with 2 zones. Would you recommend me purchasing a Riello boiler and burner ? Just would like to install an excellent boiler and would like your opinion on it., and if so which one ?
Hello.
I have a Gulliver Blu burner that has started to run intermittently. It runs for 3 secs and pause for about 12 secs. The water temp does not go above 45 C. On the display it says Error 50-4 and 51-4.
Any idea what the problem might be=
I have a oil to propane conversation, can I got a switching relay from manufacturer, it's going on a veiszmen boiler for Heating. Is there anything else I require?
Hi Steven thanks for info on my mums Riello 40,,,still playing her up man..changed the cad cell still not fireing is it the selonoiad ?
Hi sir , am from India
I am a burner user , I want know about the reillo oil burner GW model
Has the ignition coil on this controler got two primarys? It has four wires entering the high voltage transformer and two outputs to the electrodes. Has it two primary windings? I was expecting two imput wires and two output connections to the electrodes.
And how do you check to see if the control box with the electronic transformer is working?
Hi Steven do you get different kind of riello rbl oil pumps?
Thanks for the video Steve. I know you don't give a flying crap..lol..but john accer asked about cad cells. They see infrared light and also the normal light spectrum that people see.
Great job on video Steven Thanks
thanks andy
Crazy issue with my F5 .When motor starts it shortclcles rough 4 seconds for about 5 times then runs fine. Never locks out. filter /screen electrodes nozlle and control were replaced already. Is the motor on it`s way out possibly or cap? Tstat is calling. going use this test method tonight.
Had a similar problem with a Riello fitted with an air intake fitted on the cover. Without the intake fitted, the burner operated smoothly but when the intake was put back on the cover, it would occasionally short cycle. The air intake was not obstructed. I then found that due to the positions of the flue terminal and air intake cowl positioned near to some bushes, the bushes were not allowing the flue gases to escape to the atmosphere easily. As a result, the air intake was occasionally ingesting some of the flue gases which consequently caused a very brief starvation of air during the combustion process. The bushes were removed and the problem was eliminated.
Thanks again great video.
thanks for watching katherine
your the man ! for this
Steve, My Riello 40 runs, but does not fire. I checked the oil valve solenoid and got 1.4 K ohms between 1 and 2 and between 1 and 8. The resistance was zero between 2 and 8 (blue and black), even in a new solenoid I got from Ebay. However, the burner sprays oil, which can be seen as a fine mist visible at the chamber window when the burner is started. I'm suspecting the primary control box to be faulty. Is there a way to test the primary control box and the igniter within it?
I think by process of elimination if your pump is still working and the sprayed mist does not ignite then there is not ignition (spark) meaning the transformer is not working.
I am thinking you may want to connect leads 3 (neutral) and lead 5 (power) of the control box to 120 v AC power then cover the CAD cell and see if you would get sparks...
If the ceramic from the electrodes where broken or cracked could this have a effect on the burner firing?
Yes. The whole point of the ceramic being there is to create an insulation barrier from the high voltage of the sparking electrode jumping prematurely to ground before it jumps to ground near the tip of the nozzle. Once those are cracked, the sparks are always going to try and find the easiest path to the metal ground, which is not the tips of the electrodes.
So, what if it read 1.41Ω between 2 & 8, would it be bad? Serious question...
Not bad. Coils fail by fusing to zero ohms, or breaking to infinity ohms ('not reading anything'). So 1.3 or "something like that" is probably fine
@@JohnMullee Thanks!
I've often wondered, is there a way to do a test on the control box for the spark? When diagnosing, how would you know if you have a weak or no spark?
I asked that question to assess the transformer but no one answered. Have you found out how to test the control panel to see if the electronic transformer is still working?
The spark circuit is activated with a relay, so, the control unit removed will have on the spark connectors a small number of ohms. If it's either nothing at all, or shorted at 0 ohms, the secondary coil circuit is toast. You should also be able to get similar readings on the cool primary circuit by unscrewing the control unit base
Hi Everyone,
Wanted to know what represents the voltage between 3-7 pins. (39-50Volts)
Is this some tachy control or something else ?
Thanks
That motor is two speed running at different voltages.
Hey Steve, Have a Riello F5 with no power across 3 and 5, no breaker issues, any suggestions?
call a local oil burner man for service
Hey Steve, very useful videos thanks. I have an older Riello 40 G3, I have replace solenoid,photocell and nozzle recently, the burner runs fine for 10mins or so then cuts out, it tries to start but fails , the restart button does nothing then. Any idea what I should be looking at ?
+Clan Ryan have you checked the oil flow???? and pump screen?? sounds like you might have a oil problem ,it hard to say over a email unless i am there testing stuff .and running it hard to say whats going on .
+steven lavimoniere Hi Steve, I did take off the pump filter and clean it recently and also replaced the shutoff valve to oil tank. the tank is also lowish on oil so perhaps it isn't pulling it in properly
you might have a blocked oil line
I want to switch my 120v to 24 v.
Hi steve can you tell me how to check the spark on the transformer as you cant just stick a screwdriver across it
***** you can hear the transformer spark there is no way to test it with a screw drive not a reillo if you thing the transformer is bad change it out and see if she fires.
thanks steve
actually that's just what he does on a service call in another video. Wants it to jump at least 3/4 of an inch
Hello, can you help me , I have problem
What problem
Is anybody have an idea why is furnace smoking,new fuel tank,lines,tigerloop,safety oil valve,ir has air supply straight to the burner but smoke is coming in the house through chimney?
check your chimney?
Make down the oil pressure and increase the air pressure if u have black smoke
and check the secondary thermocouple pipe or smoking pipe's thermocouple..