The specific procedure by BMW is made to be able to do this at 100% perfection with 0% risk of damage to anything. They are a precission technology company with a lot of hired engineers and not a hillbilly shop slapping parts together so it one day becomes a car by lucky accident... as it may well have become a boat as well. No hate just making fun. You can do the same job like in this video but if for example the "special tools" slides off the tensioner braket then you are well on your way to get an expensive rebuild :) maybe but maybe not and you'll be lucky to finish it with the same result. And that comes from someone who had no problems using cable ties to fix a four cylinder engine in place to do timing service on it :) but knowing what forces do keep a V8 timed I'd probably go for a timing chaing tool to keep everything in place (as I actually do have that tool). I am not saying do it this or the other way. Do it the way you feel comfortable and you trust yourself with it the most.
That's the way to go. The BMW procedure is absolutely crazy. I think all the bad name of the M62 TU would be over if people did it this way. I have looked at other videos and just wondered why on earth would you want to undo the Vanos units in the first place.. and if you did want to do a Vanos unit there are only two few things that need to be re-aligned.
Granted, the third guide wasn’t removed, so keeping tension was somewhat easier. I could see how this would be workable in ideal circumstances. When this was done on mine, we weren’t sure if the chain skipped, and we replaced all the guides, along with a couple $K of ‘might as well while it’s apart’. The first time we set the timing, the Vanos was torqued to spec, and ended up a hair off, so I lived with an SES light for a while. Next time, we cranked the Vanos down past spec. No light (for that) yet.
... most of the time people want to seem smarter than the rest. That's why YT mechanics try to endorse all kinds of special tools. Your video is PERFECT example of how to git_er_done! #McGyver
That's just nuts! You still have all kinds of stuff that's potentially worn out, or close to worn out that was RIGHT THERE in front of you, and you just ignored it. This means that you'll likely be back in there in another year or so. And without the timing tools, without new gaskets, you're leaving the results of your efforts to hopes and dreams. If you wanted to do a HIGH QUALITY repair you'd have replaced all the guides, all three tensioners, all three chains, rebuild the VANOS units, and use new gaskets. Do not use 'Made in China' crap either. It won't last! If you want to care for your car as you did in this video, get a mid 90s beater Corolla.
how did u get crankshaft bolt off to get lower timing cover off? impact socket? did u lock the flywheel TDC? did you reuse crankshaft bolt? o and did u use gasket maker on all the gaskets??thanks for sharing
Good job...great video for a DIY'er. But could you confirm : -- You did not have to lock the crankshaft at TDC with the pin under the transmission; -- you did not deal with the Jesus bolt, and you did not lock the camshafts either. -- You did not touch the Vanos and/or trigger wheels. -- and you did not replace the 3rd guide on the left side of the engine, as it was not broken. "If it ai'nt broke, do not fix it".
Exactly. The video skipped over the answers and I find it suspect that someone can replicate this without knowing those specifics. I also wonder why go to all this time and effort, and then skimp on parts. But, that's just me. Each to their own.
hey man, that's just the guides though. Replacing the chain, wouldn't you want the special locking tools? Maybe not - I guess you could transfer the grease pen marks to the new chain.
Great video! I'm about to do the exact same thing on my M62TU, which now constantly rattles on idle. Got a few questions though. - What symptoms did you have? - Do you know, if there's a specific way to determine, if the chain has skipped or not. I'm only experiencing a rough idle, and constant rattling. Wondering, if I can skip the timing tools? - Is a new chain needed, if it's been running on the metal of the guides (in my case rattling)?
@@HakenE30 Thanks for the reply. What symptoms did you have, before realizing the guides were gone? Did you drive the car for a period with broken guides?
Bother! Thank you so much for this great vid! I have a question maybe you or your viewers can answer. I have an 02 540i, recently replaced the fuel pump and car ran fine. A week later I have fuel pouring out of the fuel tank vent tube that plugs in to the air intake tube. Any idea where I can start checking? thank you!
What about the left side guide? The one you did not remove. Would it be removable in the conditions that you showed? And how did you managed to get a chain slack in the upper run, and chain tensioned in the lower run. Is this a natural state of the chain when the engine stops? Have you turned the engine shaft to get this slack??
@@HakenE30 WOW, my jaw dropped i awe I tell you, you DONE it!!! I am gathering my guts to do the same you did yet not yet BUT, a couple questions please: - your car is safe yet still is knocking sound -what if your chain is streched out and needs to be replaced? -were tentioners of the chains of the vanos working right and tensed enough? much appreciated answer, thank you in advance. :)
I came across some bmw threads, where a guy tried to do exact same thing without the special tools. But he ended up needing the timing tools, due to not being able to loosen the chain tension without touching the Vanos unit, meaning his timing went off at that moment. His car started up fine, but got codes P0011 and P0021 (timing over-advanced, both banks). I'm very curious, how did you manage to loosen up the chain at the inside on the V-rail, without messing up the timing?
This is what I would also like I know. I see everyone else opening up the Vanos bolt, the reverse threaded ones. I wish in your shortcut of a chain guide reply vent video you would have given a few more tips for someone to feel confident about the procedure. Too many parts of the process are skipped for anyone with little experience to follow I feel like so it might cause someone who doesn’t know what they are doing to cause more harm than good lol
A better question is why it matters as you'd be a fool if you don't replace the chains to begin with, so you WILL lose the timing, but so what? Just do it right and get the tools. German Auto Solutions makes a great set that's very easy to use.
The specific procedure by BMW is made to be able to do this at 100% perfection with 0% risk of damage to anything. They are a precission technology company with a lot of hired engineers and not a hillbilly shop slapping parts together so it one day becomes a car by lucky accident... as it may well have become a boat as well. No hate just making fun.
You can do the same job like in this video but if for example the "special tools" slides off the tensioner braket then you are well on your way to get an expensive rebuild :) maybe but maybe not and you'll be lucky to finish it with the same result. And that comes from someone who had no problems using cable ties to fix a four cylinder engine in place to do timing service on it :) but knowing what forces do keep a V8 timed I'd probably go for a timing chaing tool to keep everything in place (as I actually do have that tool).
I am not saying do it this or the other way. Do it the way you feel comfortable and you trust yourself with it the most.
Tražio sam tutorial ali sam ti prepoznao glas! Đesi komunjaroooo ❤
That's the way to go. The BMW procedure is absolutely crazy. I think all the bad name of the M62 TU would be over if people did it this way. I have looked at other videos and just wondered why on earth would you want to undo the Vanos units in the first place.. and if you did want to do a Vanos unit there are only two few things that need to be re-aligned.
You did a great job sir thanks for sharing
the engine now works great
Piece of cake... ⚙️🛠⚙️ 👍🏻
There is a correct way to do things and a wrong way-you decide which one this was....
this was the correct way
@@HakenE30 Right......
Granted, the third guide wasn’t removed, so keeping tension was somewhat easier. I could see how this would be workable in ideal circumstances.
When this was done on mine, we weren’t sure if the chain skipped, and we replaced all the guides, along with a couple $K of ‘might as well while it’s apart’.
The first time we set the timing, the Vanos was torqued to spec, and ended up a hair off, so I lived with an SES light for a while. Next time, we cranked the Vanos down past spec. No light (for that) yet.
It’s for engine timing and vanos replacement
If you go in replace all guides and rebuild vanos.
Timing tools are important to do the job right.
... most of the time people want to seem smarter than the rest. That's why YT mechanics try to endorse all kinds of special tools. Your video is PERFECT example of how to git_er_done! #McGyver
That's just nuts! You still have all kinds of stuff that's potentially worn out, or close to worn out that was RIGHT THERE in front of you, and you just ignored it. This means that you'll likely be back in there in another year or so. And without the timing tools, without new gaskets, you're leaving the results of your efforts to hopes and dreams. If you wanted to do a HIGH QUALITY repair you'd have replaced all the guides, all three tensioners, all three chains, rebuild the VANOS units, and use new gaskets. Do not use 'Made in China' crap either. It won't last! If you want to care for your car as you did in this video, get a mid 90s beater Corolla.
how did u get crankshaft bolt off to get lower timing cover off? impact socket? did u lock the flywheel TDC? did you reuse crankshaft bolt? o and did u use gasket maker on all the gaskets??thanks for sharing
Good job...great video for a DIY'er. But could you confirm :
-- You did not have to lock the crankshaft at TDC with the pin under the transmission;
-- you did not deal with the Jesus bolt, and you did not lock the camshafts either.
-- You did not touch the Vanos and/or trigger wheels.
-- and you did not replace the 3rd guide on the left side of the engine, as it was not broken.
"If it ai'nt broke, do not fix it".
Exactly. The video skipped over the answers and I find it suspect that someone can replicate this without knowing those specifics. I also wonder why go to all this time and effort, and then skimp on parts. But, that's just me. Each to their own.
hey man, that's just the guides though. Replacing the chain, wouldn't you want the special locking tools? Maybe not - I guess you could transfer the grease pen marks to the new chain.
Great video!
I'm about to do the exact same thing on my M62TU, which now constantly rattles on idle.
Got a few questions though.
- What symptoms did you have?
- Do you know, if there's a specific way to determine, if the chain has skipped or not. I'm only experiencing a rough idle, and constant rattling. Wondering, if I can skip the timing tools?
- Is a new chain needed, if it's been running on the metal of the guides (in my case rattling)?
you will have to tear into it and see how badly it is worn
@@HakenE30 Thanks for the reply.
What symptoms did you have, before realizing the guides were gone?
Did you drive the car for a period with broken guides?
Bother! Thank you so much for this great vid! I have a question maybe you or your viewers can answer.
I have an 02 540i, recently replaced the fuel pump and car ran fine. A week later I have fuel pouring out of the fuel tank vent tube that plugs in to the air intake tube. Any idea where I can start checking? thank you!
❤❤❤❤❤
The tools are more for replacing the chain and ripping the vanos out
What about the left side guide? The one you did not remove. Would it be removable in the conditions that you showed?
And how did you managed to get a chain slack in the upper run, and chain tensioned in the lower run. Is this a natural state of the chain when the engine stops?
Have you turned the engine shaft to get this slack??
it can all be removed, as long as you don't let the chain skip its original position
@@HakenE30 WOW, my jaw dropped i awe I tell you, you DONE it!!! I am gathering my guts to do the same you did yet not yet BUT, a couple questions please:
- your car is safe yet still is knocking sound
-what if your chain is streched out and needs to be replaced?
-were tentioners of the chains of the vanos working right and tensed enough?
much appreciated answer, thank you in advance. :)
Smart.
Awesome job. About to do mine. What was the engine in. I'm doing a 2001 e53 x5.
2003 540i should be the same in x5
I came across some bmw threads, where a guy tried to do exact same thing without the special tools. But he ended up needing the timing tools, due to not being able to loosen the chain tension without touching the Vanos unit, meaning his timing went off at that moment. His car started up fine, but got codes P0011 and P0021 (timing over-advanced, both banks).
I'm very curious, how did you manage to loosen up the chain at the inside on the V-rail, without messing up the timing?
This is what I would also like I know. I see everyone else opening up the Vanos bolt, the reverse threaded ones. I wish in your shortcut of a chain guide reply vent video you would have given a few more tips for someone to feel confident about the procedure. Too many parts of the process are skipped for anyone with little experience to follow I feel like so it might cause someone who doesn’t know what they are doing to cause more harm than good lol
A better question is why it matters as you'd be a fool if you don't replace the chains to begin with, so you WILL lose the timing, but so what? Just do it right and get the tools. German Auto Solutions makes a great set that's very easy to use.
Roughly how long did it take you?
6 hours
Sounds like diesel
Highly appreciate if you can coment back
I am far from you in Arizona