Having nice shoes that are well cared is such an enjoyable experience. I broke into buying quality shoes a couple years back and I make sure to buff them after every wear as I put the trees back in them and lightly polish them every few months. While an investment it makes me feel good wearing them and whether others compliment me on them or not, it gives me satisfaction to wear quality footwear. Herring Handgrade by Carlos Santos are my current footwear, so while nice certainly not extravagant.
Great stuff Ash - I have several Loake shoes (black brogues, suede brogues and a pair of casual loafers for the house, etc) and one pair of Cheney's bought at their factory that was cheaper than high street shop outlets (brown brogues with Dainite rubber soles), and I agree that the Cheney's are really top notch. A funny thing, women are sometime known to have many pairs of shoes, and when at the Cheaney factory they told me that men often pay for their new shoes with money hidden from their wife/partner and avoid letting their wife/partner see all their shoes together so the total number remains a mystery! One tip, I now buy my welted shoes one size up and use a GEOX insole that provides an incredible level of comfort. For gardening and short local walks I have a 30 year old pair of brown padded Dr Martens boots that have been resoled twice, making them practical, cheap and cheerful. Cheers, Chas T
Cheaneys are fantastic, but so are Loake - and that's why Loake gets most of my shoe-action. But not to be overlooked is ....... Charles Tyrwhitt, which has supplied me with some very good shoes over the years. I'll always opt for calf-leather uppers. The great news? The sales are on! Closing thought: ladies are supposed to show an unnatural level of interest in our shoes, when they first meet us. My guess is that they can't tell a Cheaney fron a Loake - but can spot a shine. Good video.
I would have to agree completely with you on your assessment of Loake quality standards. I recently purchased a pair of their "made in India" boots out of curiosity. I sent them back as in my opinion the quality was not acceptable. Lesson learnt. Northampton made or not at all for me going forward
Thank you for the very detailed video response to my question. Also the comments were very interesting to read, so people definitely need this discriminating guidance, on their sartorial journey, keep up the good work. S. Khan.
I have shoes from Cheaney, Barker, Trickers, and Crockett & Jones. I love them all, but Cheaney is my go-to. I have five pairs at present…three dress pairs, a pair of Avon country brogues, and a pair of Hurricane boots. Whenever I need a new pair of shoes (an increasingly rare thing, given my collection), Cheaney is usually the first place I look. Another thing to keep in mind is that Cheaney makes excellent trainers as well.
I've got 12+ pairs of Loake 1880 as well as shoes from Cheaney, Barker and Trickers. All excellent with their own benefits whether that's value, quality or both. Whether you wish to pay a premium for the more expensive brands is a personal choice, but certainly I've never had any complaints with any of my Loake 1880s and they have served me well for day-to-day wear. When I want something a bit special though, I would go to Cheaney, Trickers, C&J, etc.
Me too! I have 12+ pairs of Loake chelsea boots. I don't wear anything else. They all serve me well and I'm very pleased with them. I have a pair of Church loafers and I can see that the quality of the leather is better but the Loakes are perfectly good. Loake is good quality at an affordable price.
Still in the market for some Cheaney Hurricane II boots for hiking. I'll be visiting their factory shop in Desborough to get a pair half price when my size is available. Only slight blemishes that the non-eagle eyed like me would never spot. Very high standards at Cheaney.
Great video, Ash. From an American perspective, your comparison is akin to Allen Edmonds (AE) v. Alden. AE is an excellent brand, however have brought more imports into their catalog. In my opinion, Alden is the most preferred if your wallet can take it. For rugged boots, hats off to our Canadian brothers with Viberg, followed closely by White's. Top dress boots go to Alden, especially in Shell Cordovan leathers. Again, just my perspective.
I completely agree with your point about Allen Edmonds and Alden. I have been a huge fan of Allen Edmonds for decades and have a great collection of AE styles and colors. But five years ago I discovered the higher quality of Alden’s and now have several pairs, including phenomenal cordovan leather boots. I still love my AE shoes and I am happy to have and wear them, but I really appreciate the difference with my Aldens. The difference between Locke and Cheney is indeed a good analogy to AE and Alden.
I ordered two pairs of shoes from Cheaney this week. When I see phrases like "fully handcrafted in our Northamptonshire factory," I consider them an investment-or at least that's what I tell myself when suffering from buyer's remorse. 😅😅
Great video! Agree with everything you've said. My take is that the Loake 1880 range on the capital last are a perfect step up from buying the standard shoes from M&S, Next, Clarks etc. You'll really notice the difference. I owned the Fleets and Strand from Loake and was very pleased. However, the uppers loosened up with regular wear and when put next to the Cheaneys they looked very sad indeed. All my Loakes have been binned or given to charity and I exclusively own Cheaney shoes and boots now. You can get some great deals in the sales but you need to spend some time understanding the lasts and sizes. For me, I'm a size 10 in Nike trainers but I'm a 9.5F in the 125 and 12508 lasts. I was size 9 in the Loake Capital last. I've also tried Church shoes but the price increase is insane and they really aren't that much better than Cheaney IMO. Happy shopping! A word to the wise, don't bother with leather soles - dainite and diamond soles all the way. If you really must get a leather sole, have a sole protector on from somewhere like the Shoe Healer. You can find them on You Tube.
got my first pair of loake shoes back in 1989 ,when i joined the RAF, i still have some loakes from the mid 90s,and newer loakes ,always been very pleased with the quality and comfort.
Cheaney are made the same way as the other posh brands. Yes, they may use slightly less robust leathers, sometimes, but there is nothing in it. I've resoled most of them.
Morning Ash, I have a pair of Loake's Roehampton Boots which as you will know of the 1880 range and I love them, first wear and felt like iv'e worn then for years!! I also own a pair of Cheaney Cap toe Oxfords in Black which are also like wearing an old pair of slippers from the off!!My next purchase will be a pair of Trickers Stow boots!! and it's all your fault 😉😂
My Loakes are at least 30 years old and still feel and look great. Of course, I have taken care of them and would not wear them on consecutive days but I couldn’t ask anything more of a pair of shoes. However, I recently bought a pair of Loakes. Oh dear. I’m told that Loakes now have certain styles (ranges?) made outside the UK. Nothing wrong with that in principle except that these shoes were dreadful.
Excellent explanation and analysis Ash; done with your usual flair and attention to detail. After listening to you is very clear to me that Cheaney is a better brand and the average gap of nearly 30% between them and Loke is of no consequence when you look at what you get in return. If I manage to go this coming year to the UK I will definitely pay a visit to Cheaney´s factory. I wish you and your family a happy New Year. Regards from Argentina, the end of the world (in more ways than one!) 😁😁😁
I inherited two pairs of unworn old Loakes. Unfortunately they take a long time to wear in and get comfortable and as I don't work any more I don't think I will ever wear them in.
I’ve not had a pair of Trickers but have/have had (old quality) Loakes, Edward Green, Cheaney, Crocket and Jones, and many others over the last 50 years. Just looking at quality and longevity (forget style as this is personal), I couldn’t distinguish one from another. I think that maintenance is a large factor in determine their longevity.
@@mikeymik2 I agree that Florsheim are a little less comfortable but sharp design. My local shoemaker has always been disappointing, Johnston & Murphy.
I have a single pair of Loakes - black brogues - and I have no idea whether they were made in Northamptonshire or I did, but they have been doing me proud since the 1990s.
Just purchased a pair of Loake 1880 monk shoes from EBay for £50. An absolute bargain as they’ve hardly been used. They are currently at the cobblers getting rubber dainite soles fitted as the leather just isn’t suitable for my day to day lifestyle. New Loake polish and shoe trees I’m well on my way to becoming a chap.
The quality control on Allen Edmonton has gone way down in recent years. I just picked up a pair for $200 on Black Friday and, quite frankly, I wouldn’t have spent any more. While there are no structural issues, they have some serious finishing issues if paying full price. Each shoe has a small hard spot on the leather and you can see excess glue that seeped out of the insole. There is also some loose leather on the vamp (which again doesn’t bother me for $200). While I don’t mind that much, considering what I paid, I think Loake 1880 is a much better constructed shoe.
My friend bought a pair of Trickers Stow boots for £595. I have a pair of Loake Beadale boots which I bought for £310 - they look very similar. They are both superb and yes the Trickers do have the edge on leather thickness but not to the level where they charge very nearly double the price.
It is a bit like comparing a Ford car and a Mercedes car. Yes, they both look similar and do the same thing, but one is engineered to a higher level and is also made of superior components. It is hard to see the value difference when you are used to a Ford, but once you have purchased a Mercedes, there is no going back to Ford.
@ haha - yes I do understand that Ash but I think you do Loake a grave disservice, they are a lot closer to Trickers than Ford ever will be to Mercedes. As you said in the video Loake should be celebrated for providing really good quality foot-ware at reasonable prices - If you want shoes inspired by Ford go to Clark’s. Keep up the good work👍
This was a great video! I love those leather mountain boots. I imagine they are terribly heavy, though, which is a drawback when hiking 20-30 kilometers.
I bought a pair of lightly used Church's Dubai for about 1/8th of the retail price and a brand new Peal and Co (Brooks Brothers brand made possibly by Crockett and Jones) double monk strap for about a 1/5th of the retail. They are great shoes but the pain comes when they need to be resoled - mostly because I can't find a trustworthy/capable cobbler locally (Toronto, Canada), or the price to resole will cost more than what I paid for them.
Not sure if it will help or not. But you might review Potter and sons on UA-cam. They are based in Tennessee in the U.S. I almost have to believe you could find some fine cobblers somewhere in Ontario too. But you will find the videos very interesting and I assume less expensive than a visit to the U.K.
There is a cobbler in Oakville mall (Shoe Medic)(Ontario). Sells saphir polish too. I took my shoes (Two pairs of Church’s from the 1980’s which I inherited from my father) to Northampton, and Church sent them out to London to have them resoled, as Church no longer had the lasts. I have a pair of Cheaney brogues that I bought at the Desborough Factory Outlet. They are very solid shoes. Have bought shoes online from Abbot’s Shoes, but had difficulty converting US size as the lasts don’t perfectly match my feet. Having fifty year old shoes return in brand new condition is really cool.
I understand why there's a price difference between Loake and Cheaney. I'm less clear why a Crockett & Jones black captoe oxford sells for £545 (main collection) and £700 (handgrade collection) while the same shoe at Edward Green sells for £1,120.
Very interesting what you say about shoes. In America I bought a pair “Samuel Hubbard” nubuck flex stitched shoe with Vibram light weight soles. These shoes are so comfortable to wear that you don't want to take them off in the evening after work. The production is in Portugal and the workmanship is impeccable. But when I had worn my Cheney shoes all day, I felt tired in the evening. That's why I don't understand why Cheney doesn't also make lightweight flex shoes, actually something like sports shoes with a dress shoe look. I think a lot of young people would buy these shoes instead of sneakers. Nike shoes are not cheap. Best regards Peter
I have a couple of loakes, then made the mistake of buying a pair of Crockett and Jones chukka boots. Honestly the most comfortable shoes I have ever worn. I can't go back.
I have found the G fitting in Loake and Trickers to be about a 4E fit to me. I have purchased some of each on sale and they are then comparable in cost to Allen Edmonds which is in a 3E. My Loakes and Trickers are more comfortable but it depends on the last. AE Landon’s and Patton’s boots are good. Crockett and Jones have sales on their American websites along with Cheaney.
Well I have a pair of Locke shoes made in India, also I have several pairs of Cheaney, Barker and Crocket & Jones. All of these are fantastic shows that I am sure will outlive me. The Locke shoes are now nearly 10 years old and despite they are made in India they are the shoes that fit me best and what I find the most comfortable, so well I doubt they would be much better if they were made in Northampton. But I was possible very lucky with these as I am sure that shoes made in Northampton on average would be better!
I only own Crockett and Jones. both hand and bench grade. trust me, you will see the difference both grades even though they are both great quality. you just get more for your money such as blind stitching, fiddle back waist, higher stitch density and so on. In addition, superior leathers are used and are easier to develop a shine when new. Nevertheless, I prefer Crockett and Jones as the lasts are slim on the heel which fit me better than most other brands, and there is no point changing now. Furthermore, i have developed a relationship with the staff at the store, so i like going there even just for a chat or show my shine. it's the same as buying a 700 quid suit vs a 1500 quid suit. both great, just one is superior.
Look closer at the hidden materials used in the heal and sole and you will find that Cheaney only use quality materials and expert build quality. For me, enough said.
I currently own 17 pairs of Cheaney, 8 pairs of Loake (excluding their Portugese and Indian made trainers), 3 pairs of Trickers, 4 pairs of Crockett and Jones and a number of pairs of Barker shoes and boots as well as a number of Spanish and Portugese brands like Carmina and Carlos Santos. I've also owned a fair number in the past that I've subsequently "recycled" so am fairly familiar with a range of price points. I also (obviously) love and support English shoe manufacturers. However, it's actually misleading to say that Northampton is the epicentre of quality global shoe manufacturing. Spain has an equally long history (Carmina began in 1860s for example) and has a far larger industry and make GYW footwear for brands all over the world as well as under their own brand names. Then there's the Italian and Portugese industries. And Mexico has a very large industry with their historical connections to Spain. Secondly, the Loake 1880 range are partially made in India. The clicking and upper stitching is carried out in India and the upper is returned to the UK where they are assembled along with the sole components. They can still be described as English made with the very loose UK country of origin rules. The higher level Loake Export range which are around a £100 more expensive than the 1880 range and only occasionally are sold in the UK, may be all English manufactured but it could be the expertise no longer exists in the UK factory now pretty much all their UK upper manufacturing is sent to India. This also applies to much of Barker's production. Typically their £350 upwards RRP footwear are all UK made which seems to be a price point where it becomes affordable. Cheaney's budget city range sells for around £375. Cheaney main range shoes are typiclally £460 which is 50% higher than Loake 1880 which arguably is Loake's main range. Finally, India has a long history of manufacturing GYW shoes and owning Indian made shoes from other brands as well as Loake 1880, I would say they are equally well made as UK produced shoes. I have Norvege stitched boots produced in India which are beautifully made for example and I'd recommend you view some of the recent videos of Indian brands which are now selling into the UK to see the quality of their work.
Hiya, I discovered Loakes in circa 1994, a pair of Burgundy 771s, absolutely beautiful. I have been enjoying Loake shoes and boots ever since. I've got loads of Loakes now, all 1880s, around 20 pairs altogether ranging from super smart 771s and Royal Brogues through to oily leather boat shoes and, I love every one of them. I also love Red Wing boots x 5, Sendra Western boots x 3, Dr Martens x 6 and some Rockports and Converse, although I'm too old for the Converse now at 65. I've tried Grensons and Crockatt, etc, and frankly, I prefer the Loakes. I don't know how Loake can do them for the price to be honest. I can't comment on Design Loake as I think they are generally hideous. I've had some Loake Lifestyle driving slippers, but I dontated them due to lack of use and space and then immediately regretted doing it. Good cause though. Enjoty whatever you enjoy, I'm currently saving up for a pair of Russell Mocassins :-)
I would have to agree with you Ash. As you said here in the US with Allen Edmonds we have a very good brand with great customer service. I had purchased a pair of Derby brogues a few months ago and they kept rubbing my ankle. They are made on the same last as the other shoes that I have so this did not make sense. I took them into the local shop the man looked at them and said he would send them back and have a new pay for me as they don't make this pair with the day night soul anymore. You definitely get what you pay for. Cheers Ron
Only had 2 pairs of formal / dress / smart shoes in 50+ years Gibson brogues all leather bought from my local cobbler they look hand made sturdy always comfortable always stylish go with jeans n jacket as well as a suite quarter tipped and toe tipped on purchase ( both pairs ) and both resoled several times I think I paid £200 for the first pair and 300+ for my present pair money well spent,
To me, it comes down to which shoe fits you the best. I am quite happy with Loake, while Cheaney van be problematic. The best fit I get is from a Church's shoe, which I bought second hand.
The design loake range is made in UK and India same quality but with made on India shoes the labour is cheaper so you get the savings but the quality is the same as made in England I find
Mr. Chap, could you list the most iconic models of each UK shoemaker? From Englishmen’s perspective as from outside it is too much marketing to understand who historically created or are responsible for what shoe popularity.
Hi Ash, any thoughts on Loake Tay professional collection made in England? I'm a bit confused. And just in case... which one would you prefer, black or dark brown? Thanking you in anticipation.
Loake Professional range are not of a standard that I would recommend. They are not exclusively made in the UK, as I understand they are mostly made in India at the Loake factory in that country. I suspect they are partly made in India and completed in the UK so they can be credited as UK made. Personally, I would only buy Loake products from their 1880 range(s) and avoid their lesser tier footwear.
I thought i had a bargain a pair of cheaney dubble monk shoes from tk max for £100 but couldn't find the model number on the cheaney website so I rang cheaney only to be told they were made from cheaper materials for tk max iv never worn them and will stick to trickers church and loake my next pair of loake is going to be the gisbourne boot in the sale fingers crossed.
Hi Ash ❤. My question might seem somewhat unusual. I am in my home country Puerto Rico. I am a musician and currently the orchestra is using a black tie uniform but instead of a tuxedo they use a standard black suit. My question is... What accessories can I wear since the rest of the musicians are not wearing anything but a black tie and that is it. Just a tie (black) Can I suggest to them to, sometimes, wear a white tie instead of black.or is it inappropriate, although I have seen orchestras (classical of course) wearing it with a black suit. Can it pass being an uniform? I made more than one question ,sorry. Merry Christmas.
Having worn a pair of Loake Cannon and Cheaney Arthur shoes to work for the past year or so, I can confidently say there is a night-and-day difference in quality between the two. The Cheaney shoes are of much better quality and far more comfortable!
Greetings from Boston! It would be nice if British shoe manufacturers had refurbishing options for American chaps! I’m somewhat scared to take my shoes to even upscale shoe repair shop here in Lexington, Massachusetts
You can get Samuel Windsor shoes hand made in India Goodyear welted fine Italian leathers for around £50 a pair bargain unless you actually want made in England stamped on bottom
Loake is a gateway to fine footwear, their 1880 range I would regard as being in that category. Cheaney is a step up again and like brands such as Trickers, the best shoes in the World.
I've Trickers, Loakes & Grensons, all brogues all boots, haven't worn shoes since l was at school. All from Ebay, like new and were bought very cheaply. No way could l wear poor quality footwear again.
I have a pair of Loake 1880 boots - they’re exceptionally comfortable, and I tend to wear them for ‘special’ occasions. I also have a pair of Trickers brogues. However, my day to day shoes are a pair of brogues by Catesby, who have their base in Northampton. Sadly I don’t think the shoes were manufactured in the UK (likely India?) - however, they have a Goodyear welted sole, are comfortable and very sturdy, and have so far lasted 10 years of being worn every day for work. They cost me £60, from a family-run shoe and boot store in Stourbridge (Sowerbys Shoes), and they’ve been re-healed once by a local cobbler . With care, I’m sure they’ve got another few years life in them. To me, that represents superb value.
Hi! This interest me. I would like to know how the Cheany shoes wear, are they wearing smaller or larger? i'm eu 44! It would be good to know given i'm from Sweden, the delivery might take a while. I appreciate this channel, it educates me. Happy holiday from Sweden.
According to the Joseph Cheaney website their conversion of EU size 44 = UK size 10, depending on your foot - Cheaney offer 9 1/2 which is a slightly smaller size. As a Cheaney wearer I can vouch that their shoes are true to UK sizing.
I think all luxury companies get to a point where the name is a good part of the cost. The English companies need to be valued. In Canada we just don't have shoe makers anymore. Our last one closed 1999 but the name was renewed and they say their shoes are made in the UK. The closest we have to a North American maker is Allen Edmonds but many long time wearers are noticing a decrease in quality as the name has been sold to new owners.
Anyone know how Loake and Cheaney sizes/fits compare to Allen Edmonds? Always been curious about shoes on the other side of the pond compare to those in the states. I seem to wear different sizes depends on the brand here, so been hesitant to buy anything from Loake or Cheaney (or any of the other great shoe builders)
I'm a 10D US in Allen Edmonds, and a 9F UK in Cheaney. I have a pair of 9F suede boots by Tricker's that are slightly roomy which I cure with a heavier wool dress sock.
I would assume that stitch density, complexity of the last and sole finishing is better on a cheaney. I observed that higher quality shoes often look smarter. My Alden look smarter than the Allen Edmonds. Cheaney smarter than the Alden. My Edward Greens even more. Ash, it would be great if you could compare Loake and Cheaney side by side. Thanks
My opinion is, if someone is willing to pay a full price from loake, cheaney or barkers, it might be more practical to buy from Ebay a new old stock/ very slightly used/ bnew pair of crockett jones, trickers, or Eg In the same price range of a full price loake etc
The problem is one is taking a gamble, with different lasts and widths, for example, I for example own 3 pairs of Trickers Henry, but my two Suede pairs are 8.5 width 5, yet my C shade are a 9 width 5 yet feel the same fit, my Stow Suede and Acorns although the same size feels different, the Suede feels looser, however in C and J I take a size 9.5 E, my Coniston rough out boots although half a size bigger, still fit slightly tighter than the Trickers.
Shoes should be judged by i) fit/comfort, ii) style (last shape, colour, design, etc), iii) material quality and iv) construction quality (Goodyear welt, stitching density, etc). Loake are a great entry point but if the styles are not for you, or the fit, or the quality level, then it can be worth spending more elsewhere.
I have never, and will not, buy a pair of Oxfords. They are hideously obscene in looks, pretentious and smacks of smug, ill-gained affluence or very poorly-judged dress sense. Derby's all day long. Just my opinion... 😉
Having nice shoes that are well cared is such an enjoyable experience. I broke into buying quality shoes a couple years back and I make sure to buff them after every wear as I put the trees back in them and lightly polish them every few months. While an investment it makes me feel good wearing them and whether others compliment me on them or not, it gives me satisfaction to wear quality footwear.
Herring Handgrade by Carlos Santos are my current footwear, so while nice certainly not extravagant.
Great stuff Ash - I have several Loake shoes (black brogues, suede brogues and a pair of casual loafers for the house, etc) and one pair of Cheney's bought at their factory that was cheaper than high street shop outlets (brown brogues with Dainite rubber soles), and I agree that the Cheney's are really top notch. A funny thing, women are sometime known to have many pairs of shoes, and when at the Cheaney factory they told me that men often pay for their new shoes with money hidden from their wife/partner and avoid letting their wife/partner see all their shoes together so the total number remains a mystery! One tip, I now buy my welted shoes one size up and use a GEOX insole that provides an incredible level of comfort. For gardening and short local walks I have a 30 year old pair of brown padded Dr Martens boots that have been resoled twice, making them practical, cheap and cheerful. Cheers, Chas T
Cheaneys are fantastic, but so are Loake - and that's why Loake gets most of my shoe-action. But not to be overlooked is ....... Charles Tyrwhitt, which has supplied me with some very good shoes over the years. I'll always opt for calf-leather uppers.
The great news? The sales are on!
Closing thought: ladies are supposed to show an unnatural level of interest in our shoes, when they first meet us. My guess is that they can't tell a Cheaney fron a Loake - but can spot a shine.
Good video.
Tyrwhitt shoes and boots are made by Loake.
I would have to agree completely with you on your assessment of Loake quality standards. I recently purchased a pair of their "made in India" boots out of curiosity. I sent them back as in my opinion the quality was not acceptable. Lesson learnt. Northampton made or not at all for me going forward
Thank you for the very detailed video response to my question. Also the comments were very interesting to read, so people definitely need this discriminating guidance, on their sartorial journey, keep up the good work. S. Khan.
I have shoes from Cheaney, Barker, Trickers, and Crockett & Jones. I love them all, but Cheaney is my go-to. I have five pairs at present…three dress pairs, a pair of Avon country brogues, and a pair of Hurricane boots. Whenever I need a new pair of shoes (an increasingly rare thing, given my collection), Cheaney is usually the first place I look. Another thing to keep in mind is that Cheaney makes excellent trainers as well.
I've got 12+ pairs of Loake 1880 as well as shoes from Cheaney, Barker and Trickers. All excellent with their own benefits whether that's value, quality or both.
Whether you wish to pay a premium for the more expensive brands is a personal choice, but certainly I've never had any complaints with any of my Loake 1880s and they have served me well for day-to-day wear. When I want something a bit special though, I would go to Cheaney, Trickers, C&J, etc.
Me too! I have 12+ pairs of Loake chelsea boots. I don't wear anything else. They all serve me well and I'm very pleased with them. I have a pair of Church loafers and I can see that the quality of the leather is better but the Loakes are perfectly good. Loake is good quality at an affordable price.
Just purchased a nice pair of Cheaney shoes in their sale today. £280 off the retail price.
Yeah, they've some great deals at the moment!
There are some great deals. I bought the Cheaney Kelmarsh in dark brown. Wonderful.
@@russellthechemist8291 I was surprised how quick they came. Enjoy your shoes.
Sanders. Worth a look 😉
I bought a refurbished pair of Barkers from a local cobbler in about 1984 beautiful shine wear them occasionally,still good as new.
Beautiful! This makes me think I should keep a service history 😂
The shoes with the greatest value are the ones you love to wear often. All great brands, have fun!
Still in the market for some Cheaney Hurricane II boots for hiking. I'll be visiting their factory shop in Desborough to get a pair half price when my size is available. Only slight blemishes that the non-eagle eyed like me would never spot. Very high standards at Cheaney.
Great video, Ash. From an American perspective, your comparison is akin to Allen Edmonds (AE) v. Alden. AE is an excellent brand, however have brought more imports into their catalog. In my opinion, Alden is the most preferred if your wallet can take it. For rugged boots, hats off to our Canadian brothers with Viberg, followed closely by White's. Top dress boots go to Alden, especially in Shell Cordovan leathers. Again, just my perspective.
I completely agree with your point about Allen Edmonds and Alden. I have been a huge fan of Allen Edmonds for decades and have a great collection of AE styles and colors. But five years ago I discovered the higher quality of Alden’s and now have several pairs, including phenomenal cordovan leather boots. I still love my AE shoes and I am happy to have and wear them, but I really appreciate the difference with my Aldens. The difference between Locke and Cheney is indeed a good analogy to AE and Alden.
Cheaney...as worn by a certain "Jack Reacher"...
Great information, thank you.
I ordered two pairs of shoes from Cheaney this week. When I see phrases like "fully handcrafted in our Northamptonshire factory," I consider them an investment-or at least that's what I tell myself when suffering from buyer's remorse. 😅😅
Great video! Agree with everything you've said.
My take is that the Loake 1880 range on the capital last are a perfect step up from buying the standard shoes from M&S, Next, Clarks etc. You'll really notice the difference. I owned the Fleets and Strand from Loake and was very pleased. However, the uppers loosened up with regular wear and when put next to the Cheaneys they looked very sad indeed. All my Loakes have been binned or given to charity and I exclusively own Cheaney shoes and boots now. You can get some great deals in the sales but you need to spend some time understanding the lasts and sizes. For me, I'm a size 10 in Nike trainers but I'm a 9.5F in the 125 and 12508 lasts. I was size 9 in the Loake Capital last.
I've also tried Church shoes but the price increase is insane and they really aren't that much better than Cheaney IMO.
Happy shopping! A word to the wise, don't bother with leather soles - dainite and diamond soles all the way. If you really must get a leather sole, have a sole protector on from somewhere like the Shoe Healer. You can find them on You Tube.
got my first pair of loake shoes back in 1989 ,when i joined the RAF, i still have some loakes from the mid 90s,and newer loakes ,always been very pleased with the quality and comfort.
Cheaney are made the same way as the other posh brands. Yes, they may use slightly less robust leathers, sometimes, but there is nothing in it. I've resoled most of them.
Morning Ash, I have a pair of Loake's Roehampton Boots which as you will know of the 1880 range and I love them, first wear and felt like iv'e worn then for years!! I also own a pair of Cheaney Cap toe Oxfords in Black which are also like wearing an old pair of slippers from the off!!My next purchase will be a pair of Trickers Stow boots!! and it's all your fault 😉😂
LOL
I have 2 pairs of Loakes purchased in 2002, still going strong.
My Loakes are at least 30 years old and still feel and look great. Of course, I have taken care of them and would not wear them on consecutive days but I couldn’t ask anything more of a pair of shoes. However, I recently bought a pair of Loakes. Oh dear. I’m told that Loakes now have certain styles (ranges?) made outside the UK. Nothing wrong with that in principle except that these shoes were dreadful.
@theofarmmanager267 Sadly the once respectable brands have fallen prey to cost cutting and profit margins.
Excellent explanation and analysis Ash; done with your usual flair and attention to detail. After listening to you is very clear to me that Cheaney is a better brand and the average gap of nearly 30% between them and Loke is of no consequence when you look at what you get in return. If I manage to go this coming year to the UK I will definitely pay a visit to Cheaney´s factory. I wish you and your family a happy New Year. Regards from Argentina, the end of the world (in more ways than one!) 😁😁😁
I own both brands and I find them both to be perfectly adequate. Admittedly, my black captoe oxfords that I save for special occasions are Cheaney.
I inherited two pairs of unworn old Loakes. Unfortunately they take a long time to wear in and get comfortable and as I don't work any more I don't think I will ever wear them in.
Great video.
I’ve not had a pair of Trickers but have/have had (old quality) Loakes, Edward Green, Cheaney, Crocket and Jones, and many others over the last 50 years. Just looking at quality and longevity (forget style as this is personal), I couldn’t distinguish one from another. I think that maintenance is a large factor in determine their longevity.
In the USA, I love Allen Edmonds or Florsheim for formal and Red WIng for casual. All good looking and extremely durable.
Red Wings are my boot. Those or Danner. Allen Edmonds for dress shoes. I am about to replace my boots and considering Nick or Whites.
@edwardbirdsall6580 I have the Red wings suede slip-ons. They are the most comfortable shoes I've ever owned. I was surprised
I only ever bought one pair of Florsheim's about 30 years ago. I could feel every crack and pebble in the city. But I love Allen Edmonds and Cheaney.
@@mikeymik2 I agree that Florsheim are a little less comfortable but sharp design. My local shoemaker has always been disappointing, Johnston & Murphy.
I have a single pair of Loakes - black brogues - and I have no idea whether they were made in Northamptonshire or I did, but they have been doing me proud since the 1990s.
Just purchased a pair of Loake 1880 monk shoes from EBay for £50. An absolute bargain as they’ve hardly been used. They are currently at the cobblers getting rubber dainite soles fitted as the leather just isn’t suitable for my day to day lifestyle. New Loake polish and shoe trees I’m well on my way to becoming a chap.
The quality control on Allen Edmonton has gone way down in recent years. I just picked up a pair for $200 on Black Friday and, quite frankly, I wouldn’t have spent any more. While there are no structural issues, they have some serious finishing issues if paying full price. Each shoe has a small hard spot on the leather and you can see excess glue that seeped out of the insole. There is also some loose leather on the vamp (which again doesn’t bother me for $200). While I don’t mind that much, considering what I paid, I think Loake 1880 is a much better constructed shoe.
No! Crockett & Jones, Cheaney or preferably Edward Green are my shoes of choice. Nice video!
My friend bought a pair of Trickers Stow boots for £595. I have a pair of Loake Beadale boots which I bought for £310 - they look very similar. They are both superb and yes the Trickers do have the edge on leather thickness but not to the level where they charge very nearly double the price.
It is a bit like comparing a Ford car and a Mercedes car. Yes, they both look similar and do the same thing, but one is engineered to a higher level and is also made of superior components. It is hard to see the value difference when you are used to a Ford, but once you have purchased a Mercedes, there is no going back to Ford.
@ haha - yes I do understand that Ash but I think you do Loake a grave disservice, they are a lot closer to Trickers than Ford ever will be to Mercedes. As you said in the video Loake should be celebrated for providing really good quality foot-ware at reasonable prices - If you want shoes inspired by Ford go to Clark’s. Keep up the good work👍
This was a great video! I love those leather mountain boots. I imagine they are terribly heavy, though, which is a drawback when hiking 20-30 kilometers.
I bought a pair of lightly used Church's Dubai for about 1/8th of the retail price and a brand new Peal and Co (Brooks Brothers brand made possibly by Crockett and Jones) double monk strap for about a 1/5th of the retail. They are great shoes but the pain comes when they need to be resoled - mostly because I can't find a trustworthy/capable cobbler locally (Toronto, Canada), or the price to resole will cost more than what I paid for them.
Not sure if it will help or not. But you might review Potter and sons on UA-cam. They are based in Tennessee in the U.S. I almost have to believe you could find some fine cobblers somewhere in Ontario too. But you will find the videos very interesting and I assume less expensive than a visit to the U.K.
I was just going to suggest Potter and Sons. Their UA-cam channel is called "Trenton and Heath," it's a pair of brothers if I'm recalling correctly.
@@edwardbirdsall6580 Ah, yes, I watch them occasionally and I also watch Bedo's Leatherwork. That's actually how I got interested in quality shoes.
@@edwardbirdsall6580 Ah, yes, I’ve watched them before. My personal favourite is Bedo’s Leatherwork - very meticulous work.
There is a cobbler in Oakville mall (Shoe Medic)(Ontario). Sells saphir polish too. I took my shoes (Two pairs of Church’s from the 1980’s which I inherited from my father) to Northampton, and Church sent them out to London to have them resoled, as Church no longer had the lasts. I have a pair of Cheaney brogues that I bought at the Desborough Factory Outlet. They are very solid shoes. Have bought shoes online from Abbot’s Shoes, but had difficulty converting US size as the lasts don’t perfectly match my feet. Having fifty year old shoes return in brand new condition is really cool.
I understand why there's a price difference between Loake and Cheaney. I'm less clear why a Crockett & Jones black captoe oxford sells for £545 (main collection) and £700 (handgrade collection) while the same shoe at Edward Green sells for £1,120.
Probably different overheads.
Very interesting what you say about shoes. In America I bought a pair “Samuel Hubbard” nubuck flex stitched shoe with Vibram light weight soles. These shoes are so comfortable to wear that you don't want to take them off in the evening after work. The production is in Portugal and the workmanship is impeccable.
But when I had worn my Cheney shoes all day, I felt tired in the evening. That's why I don't understand why Cheney doesn't also make lightweight flex shoes, actually something like sports shoes with a dress shoe look.
I think a lot of young people would buy these shoes instead of sneakers. Nike shoes are not cheap.
Best regards Peter
I will not buy “Samuel Hubbard” because of the yellow dot on the back of the shoe and the name on the back and tongue of the shoe.
I have a couple of loakes, then made the mistake of buying a pair of Crockett and Jones chukka boots. Honestly the most comfortable shoes I have ever worn. I can't go back.
I have found the G fitting in Loake and Trickers to be about a 4E fit to me. I have purchased some of each on sale and they are then comparable in cost to Allen Edmonds which is in a 3E. My Loakes and Trickers are more comfortable but it depends on the last. AE Landon’s and Patton’s boots are good. Crockett and Jones have sales on their American websites along with Cheaney.
Well I have a pair of Locke shoes made in India, also I have several pairs of Cheaney, Barker and Crocket & Jones. All of these are fantastic shows that I am sure will outlive me. The Locke shoes are now nearly 10 years old and despite they are made in India they are the shoes that fit me best and what I find the most comfortable, so well I doubt they would be much better if they were made in Northampton. But I was possible very lucky with these as I am sure that shoes made in Northampton on average would be better!
Can you do a video on Crockett and Jones
I only own Crockett and Jones. both hand and bench grade.
trust me, you will see the difference both grades even though they are both great quality.
you just get more for your money such as blind stitching, fiddle back waist, higher stitch density and so on.
In addition, superior leathers are used and are easier to develop a shine when new.
Nevertheless, I prefer Crockett and Jones as the lasts are slim on the heel which fit me better than most other brands, and there is no point changing now.
Furthermore, i have developed a relationship with the staff at the store, so i like going there even just for a chat or show my shine.
it's the same as buying a 700 quid suit vs a 1500 quid suit.
both great, just one is superior.
Look closer at the hidden materials used in the heal and sole and you will find that Cheaney only use quality materials and expert build quality. For me, enough said.
I currently own 17 pairs of Cheaney, 8 pairs of Loake (excluding their Portugese and Indian made trainers), 3 pairs of Trickers, 4 pairs of Crockett and Jones and a number of pairs of Barker shoes and boots as well as a number of Spanish and Portugese brands like Carmina and Carlos Santos. I've also owned a fair number in the past that I've subsequently "recycled" so am fairly familiar with a range of price points. I also (obviously) love and support English shoe manufacturers.
However, it's actually misleading to say that Northampton is the epicentre of quality global shoe manufacturing. Spain has an equally long history (Carmina began in 1860s for example) and has a far larger industry and make GYW footwear for brands all over the world as well as under their own brand names. Then there's the Italian and Portugese industries. And Mexico has a very large industry with their historical connections to Spain.
Secondly, the Loake 1880 range are partially made in India. The clicking and upper stitching is carried out in India and the upper is returned to the UK where they are assembled along with the sole components. They can still be described as English made with the very loose UK country of origin rules.
The higher level Loake Export range which are around a £100 more expensive than the 1880 range and only occasionally are sold in the UK, may be all English manufactured but it could be the expertise no longer exists in the UK factory now pretty much all their UK upper manufacturing is sent to India.
This also applies to much of Barker's production. Typically their £350 upwards RRP footwear are all UK made which seems to be a price point where it becomes affordable. Cheaney's budget city range sells for around £375.
Cheaney main range shoes are typiclally £460 which is 50% higher than Loake 1880 which arguably is Loake's main range.
Finally, India has a long history of manufacturing GYW shoes and owning Indian made shoes from other brands as well as Loake 1880, I would say they are equally well made as UK produced shoes.
I have Norvege stitched boots produced in India which are beautifully made for example and I'd recommend you view some of the recent videos of Indian brands which are now selling into the UK to see the quality of their work.
My son loves his tudor 41 gmt btw.
Hiya, I discovered Loakes in circa 1994, a pair of Burgundy 771s, absolutely beautiful. I have been enjoying Loake shoes and boots ever since. I've got loads of Loakes now, all 1880s, around 20 pairs altogether ranging from super smart 771s and Royal Brogues through to oily leather boat shoes and, I love every one of them. I also love Red Wing boots x 5, Sendra Western boots x 3, Dr Martens x 6 and some Rockports and Converse, although I'm too old for the Converse now at 65. I've tried Grensons and Crockatt, etc, and frankly, I prefer the Loakes. I don't know how Loake can do them for the price to be honest. I can't comment on Design Loake as I think they are generally hideous. I've had some Loake Lifestyle driving slippers, but I dontated them due to lack of use and space and then immediately regretted doing it. Good cause though. Enjoty whatever you enjoy, I'm currently saving up for a pair of Russell Mocassins :-)
I would have to agree with you Ash. As you said here in the US with Allen Edmonds we have a very good brand with great customer service. I had purchased a pair of Derby brogues a few months ago and they kept rubbing my ankle. They are made on the same last as the other shoes that I have so this did not make sense. I took them into the local shop the man looked at them and said he would send them back and have a new pay for me as they don't make this pair with the day night soul anymore. You definitely get what you pay for. Cheers Ron
Only had 2 pairs of formal / dress / smart shoes in 50+ years Gibson brogues all leather bought from my local cobbler they look hand made sturdy always comfortable always stylish go with jeans n jacket as well as a suite quarter tipped and toe tipped on purchase ( both pairs ) and both resoled several times I think I paid £200 for the first pair and 300+ for my present pair money well spent,
To me, it comes down to which shoe fits you the best. I am quite happy with Loake, while Cheaney van be problematic. The best fit I get is from a Church's shoe, which I bought second hand.
The last should be first. 😀
@mikeymik2 I know, it still feels like brands have certain characteristics that I find in most of their lasts.
The design loake range is made in UK and India same quality but with made on India shoes the labour is cheaper so you get the savings but the quality is the same as made in England I find
Mr. Chap, could you list the most iconic models of each UK shoemaker? From Englishmen’s perspective as from outside it is too much marketing to understand who historically created or are responsible for what shoe popularity.
Hi Ash, any thoughts on Loake Tay professional collection made in England?
I'm a bit confused.
And just in case... which one would you prefer, black or dark brown?
Thanking you in anticipation.
Loake Professional range are not of a standard that I would recommend. They are not exclusively made in the UK, as I understand they are mostly made in India at the Loake factory in that country. I suspect they are partly made in India and completed in the UK so they can be credited as UK made. Personally, I would only buy Loake products from their 1880 range(s) and avoid their lesser tier footwear.
I thought i had a bargain a pair of cheaney dubble monk shoes from tk max for £100 but couldn't find the model number on the cheaney website so I rang cheaney only to be told they were made from cheaper materials for tk max iv never worn them and will stick to trickers church and loake my next pair of loake is going to be the gisbourne boot in the sale fingers crossed.
Hi Ash ❤. My question might seem somewhat unusual. I am in my home country Puerto Rico. I am a musician and currently the orchestra is using a black tie uniform but instead of a tuxedo they use a standard black suit. My question is... What accessories can I wear since the rest of the musicians are not wearing anything but a black tie and that is it. Just a tie (black) Can I suggest to them to, sometimes, wear a white tie instead of black.or is it inappropriate, although I have seen orchestras (classical of course) wearing it with a black suit. Can it pass being an uniform? I made more than one question ,sorry. Merry Christmas.
Having worn a pair of Loake Cannon and Cheaney Arthur shoes to work for the past year or so, I can confidently say there is a night-and-day difference in quality between the two. The Cheaney shoes are of much better quality and far more comfortable!
Greetings from Boston! It would be nice if British shoe manufacturers had refurbishing options for American chaps! I’m somewhat scared to take my shoes to even upscale shoe repair shop here in Lexington, Massachusetts
You can get Samuel Windsor shoes hand made in India Goodyear welted fine Italian leathers for around £50 a pair bargain unless you actually want made in England stamped on bottom
Recently handled a pair of SW shoes. I was not impressed at all.
Can you do a video on formal shirts? I’m looking for a decent quality shirt for price that isn’t ridiculous…..
Loake is a gateway to fine footwear, their 1880 range I would regard as being in that category. Cheaney is a step up again and like brands such as Trickers, the best shoes in the World.
Tecnic
Brilliant shoemaker
Mine were bought in the mid 80s
Cheaney are ok
Loake are fine for work
I've Trickers, Loakes & Grensons, all brogues all boots, haven't worn shoes since l was at school. All from Ebay, like new and were bought very cheaply. No way could l wear poor quality footwear again.
It can often be agony wearing in a beautiful pair. Sad to say I'm using softer leather now.
I have a pair of Loake 1880 boots - they’re exceptionally comfortable, and I tend to wear them for ‘special’ occasions. I also have a pair of Trickers brogues. However, my day to day shoes are a pair of brogues by Catesby, who have their base in Northampton. Sadly I don’t think the shoes were manufactured in the UK (likely India?) - however, they have a Goodyear welted sole, are comfortable and very sturdy, and have so far lasted 10 years of being worn every day for work. They cost me £60, from a family-run shoe and boot store in Stourbridge (Sowerbys Shoes), and they’ve been re-healed once by a local cobbler . With care, I’m sure they’ve got another few years life in them. To me, that represents superb value.
Hi! This interest me. I would like to know how the Cheany shoes wear, are they wearing smaller or larger? i'm eu 44! It would be good to know given i'm from Sweden, the delivery might take a while. I appreciate this channel, it educates me. Happy holiday from Sweden.
According to the Joseph Cheaney website their conversion of EU size 44 = UK size 10, depending on your foot - Cheaney offer 9 1/2 which is a slightly smaller size. As a Cheaney wearer I can vouch that their shoes are true to UK sizing.
Not sure why Loake get translated to Locke….! Can’t seem to edit my posts…
Isn't all of Loakes leather imported from India now? Hand made in England yes but no English leather.
I would have thought Barkers would have been a better comparison to Loake's.
Good evening ash
His name starts with capital A and than all small letters, even Russians from Boston know that
My Cheaney Imperials are very , very close in quality to my Edward Green shoes .
I think all luxury companies get to a point where the name is a good part of the cost. The English companies need to be valued. In Canada we just don't have shoe makers anymore. Our last one closed 1999 but the name was renewed and they say their shoes are made in the UK. The closest we have to a North American maker is Allen Edmonds but many long time wearers are noticing a decrease in quality as the name has been sold to new owners.
Anyone know how Loake and Cheaney sizes/fits compare to Allen Edmonds? Always been curious about shoes on the other side of the pond compare to those in the states. I seem to wear different sizes depends on the brand here, so been hesitant to buy anything from Loake or Cheaney (or any of the other great shoe builders)
I'm a 10D US in Allen Edmonds, and a 9F UK in Cheaney. I have a pair of 9F suede boots by Tricker's that are slightly roomy which I cure with a heavier wool dress sock.
@@mikeymik2card thank you!
@@gregs.8895 Some cards say a 10 US is 9 1/2 UK, but not in my world.
I would assume that stitch density, complexity of the last and sole finishing is better on a cheaney. I observed that higher quality shoes often look smarter. My Alden look smarter than the Allen Edmonds. Cheaney smarter than the Alden. My Edward Greens even more.
Ash, it would be great if you could compare Loake and Cheaney side by side. Thanks
My opinion is, if someone is willing to pay a full price from loake, cheaney or barkers, it might be more practical to buy from Ebay a new old stock/ very slightly used/ bnew pair of crockett jones, trickers, or Eg
In the same price range of a full price loake etc
Someone’s sweaty feet 🦶🙃
Sizing is the big dealbreaker
The problem is one is taking a gamble, with different lasts and widths, for example, I for example own 3 pairs of Trickers Henry, but my two Suede pairs are 8.5 width 5, yet my C shade are a 9 width 5 yet feel the same fit, my Stow Suede and Acorns although the same size feels different, the Suede feels looser, however in C and J I take a size 9.5 E, my Coniston rough out boots although half a size bigger, still fit slightly tighter than the Trickers.
@@galou0090correct, I've just added a comment, in reply explaining why.
Shoes should be judged by i) fit/comfort, ii) style (last shape, colour, design, etc), iii) material quality and iv) construction quality (Goodyear welt, stitching density, etc). Loake are a great entry point but if the styles are not for you, or the fit, or the quality level, then it can be worth spending more elsewhere.
“My lived experience“
What other kind of experience is there? Dead experience?
There is no comparison between Loake and Cheaney.
I have never, and will not, buy a pair of Oxfords. They are hideously obscene in looks, pretentious and smacks of smug, ill-gained affluence or very poorly-judged dress sense.
Derby's all day long. Just my opinion... 😉
Saw this review on Allen Edmunds today, I was quiet surprised ua-cam.com/video/6LtG0NwC0FA/v-deo.htmlsi=vRn7Z_t8yUJMYOmS