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DEATH OF THE DRESS SHOE | THE FUTURE FOR ELITE MEN'S SHOES?
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- Опубліковано 16 лис 2023
- In this video your enigmatic host discusses the challenges facing the men's shoe industry in the coming generation.
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The brogue is one of the most versatile and wearable shoes that any chap can have in his shoe collection - worn casually when needed, or with a suit in the most formal of occasions, the brogue is a true gentleman's classic.
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An important wake-up call for us all. These companies need our business to survive. Say no to low-quality shoes from Asian sweat shops!
It sickens me to see English traditions and culture fading away.
The figures show that they're mostly making a profit, after lockdown at least - though you'd have to make allowance for inflation on the real value - and the small profit means that the price of the shoe represents something real, i.e. the cost of the work that goes into making it.
Well, let's do something about it! Spread the word. No more "genuine leather" plastic coated, glued shoes produced by Asian slave labour. Buy quality, buy British!
I’m Russian and i have a few dozen of expensive dress shoes and I wear them on daily basis. I don’t understand what are you guys talking about?
Moscow Russia is booming with exceptionally well dressed people
I'm Russian and I have a few dozen of expensive dress shoes and I wear them on daily basis. I don't understand what are you guys talking about?
Moscow Russia is booming with exceptionally well dressed people
Thank your stupid government for that. All of the western governments are in the process of destroying their cultures.
For the last 30 years since my mid twenties I’ve only ever purchased made in England shoes and boots as I saw this coming and was tired of replacing shoes every year as the quality brands you mentioned can last a lifetime if maintained and the soles replaced etc - Crocketts recently closed one of their stores in birmingham and went from 2 to 1 now - over the last 4 years I’ve purchased 3 pairs of Crockett boots and just this year a pair of Trickers and they are all amazing - we all need to support these amazing companies and stop buying throw away cheap items 🇬🇧 💪
Bravo sir!
Wow! Tricker’s? That’s huge. My wife has 2 pairs of their boots. I hope they can turn things around. As for Loake, their pricing, even for the 1880 line, is within reach for the average Joe. I fully expect them to do well.
Yes, I have a pair of Trickers shoes and a pair of Loake 1880 boots - both wonderful. I can see a future for Loake, but to lose Trickers would be tragic. Personally I have always worn brogues, and like the idea that a good pair, with some care taken, can last a lifetime. And maybe that’s the problem - the shoes are too good, so we don’t need to buy replacements.
In Spain , many traditional men shoe brands are also struggling badly or have closed their doors , unfortunately. I lived close to Northampton when I was in my early 20s and I'm glad I got a couple of Church's shoes that are still in perfect condition almost 23 years later. Hope we don't see many more traditional brands closing their doors anytime soon.
Which brands?
I have a pair of Church's white bucks from about 1978. Grew out of them, but they are still in nearly perfect shape. Looking forward to passing them on to a grandkid someday.
We live in a casual society these days. Expensive clothes take effort…people don’t bother with effort. Example….cashmere demands effort; cheap polyester fleece demands no effort. Similarly with formal shoes. Question: who buys Edward Green as an instance when one looks at their price point?
Ironically, I'm watching this video whilst wearing a watch that would pay for half a dozen pairs of Trickers and yet I scour eBay looking for second-hand pairs. Maybe it's time to walk into the shop on Jermyn Street and treat myself to a brand new pair... There's truth in the adage, use it or lose it!
If you can afford a new pair, and you like them, do your bit ;)
I just saw that Crocket & Jones have opened a new store on Jermyn Street No 77. It cannot be that bad for all dress shoe manufacturers.
Sorry. I wrote that comment before watching the whole video 😔 It will not happen again.
I own about 20 pairs of dress shoes/boots combined and wear them every single day. There is no such a place where wearing these shoes would look out of place. There are tons of great brands popping out almost every day, which makes me think that we actually live in the golden era of dress shoes - Thanks to all asian folks who keep these traditions alive!!!!
I respectfully disagree. I own 6 pairs of dress shoes and rarely wears them. Fashion and trends have changed, and jeans and casual wears are mostly accepted in most occasions. Even the pastor in my church wears jeans and sports shoes on the pulpit. BTW, £1,000 for a pair of dress shoes? Why? We’re comfortable middle class and wouldn’t ever purchase something this expensive. I wear Eccos and Rockports, at about less than one tenth that price, perfectly great shoes that are super comfortable. But this is the “golden age” of dress shoes? Come on, that’s ridiculous….we’re pairing Nikes with blazers now.
@@roy5515 lower standards of dressing being acceptable does not mean one can not maintain a classic style nowadays. I’m in dressier shoes / boots almost every day (unless I’m doing sports) and never felt out of place, often getting compliments and nice looks from people around. On top of that, you can easily get high quality leather shoes nowadays for 200-300€ that will easily last decades and look great while doing so, much better than that Rockport garbage that falls apart in a year or two.
@roy5515 respectfully, Ecco & rockport are some of the worst looking men’s shoes on the planet, I have no doubt after wearing them for any significant amount of time, they look even worse.
@@ahiwalter9153 worst looking? Hardly. Some of them are regular shoes for everyday office workers, and they’re comfortable and functions fine. Some are quite good looking for special occasions. Modern dress shoes took inspiration from running shoes, which are designed with ultimate comfort, support and performance in mind. I own premier running shoes from Addidas, Nike, Hokka and Brooks. Their comfort as everyday shoes outperform every makes of shoes. Now I acknowledge expensive bespoke hand made shoes has its place, but saying they are the best shoes is just depending on how you look at it. But this is the golden ages of dress shoes? No, I don’t think so.
Sad news, but they do not surprise me. Western civilization is experiencing a horrendous decay of which fine garments and shoes are just one example and, considering the seriousness of the whole affair, a pretty irrelevant one. It is very clear that most young people do not appreciate beautiful, elegant garments and shoes, to make things worse the media is promoting and encouraging scruffiness and ugliness. Look around you at the advertising, TV commercials, and social events. Ash is fighting a heroic rearguard action in horrible times and deserves our respect and gratitude.
Oh could not agree more, in the USA it is sweat pants and a t shirt and tennis shoes we look like slobs.
@@markburk7022as a Spaniard who lives in Utah I can testify that your words are true , unfortunately.
I'm offended every single day here in the U.S. in what my eyes have to see. Sometimes I can ignore but it's not easy to do so. But when I do see someone dressed nicely, I get hypnotized with a little smile. lol. If I go to London, i'll become a walking smiling zombie. lol
Covid has had a huge impact on the business dress industry as a whole. Many people now work from home or seem to dress more casually whilst they are in the office. 😢
This video put the “fear of missing out” in me. I now own a pair of Stow boots. I hope fortunes improve for this iconic company
Great choice sir!
No! Trickers are my favourite shoe makers, I hope they manage to keep going without dropping quality.
Obviously one doesn't want to see UK brands go under, but smaller bespoke makers will always be an option, either in the UK or abroad. It's not the end for elite mens' shoes necessarily
Yes, but bespoke is out of most ppls price.
I own shoes by every English shoe manufacturer you listed, except Trickers. I will rectify this oversight on my next pay day.
It makes me sad that old tradition companies are endangered. I own three pairs of Trickers and I absolutely love them.
Kind regards
The German policeman
Edward Green profit £370M? That's a hell of a lot. I think you mean £370K. These companies produce fantastic shoes however they must adapt to a changing market if they are to stay in business.
Lately I've been seeing American shoe ads saying that classic shoe manufacturing is out of date and uncomfortable. They're giving out a lot of lies and misinformation to the public. Amberjack is one of those ridiculous shoe manufacturers, just look at their ads specifically attacking classic shoe manufacturing.
I think it’s probably true that non traditional shoes are more comfortable, at least initially, but obviously the quality isn’t there. We should all endeavor to preserve our culture and reject the new stuff.
I think of the non-t's as future throw aways. ------ For some reason, I don't seem to admire something that may be a little too comfortable. Quality would be sacrificed somewhere along the line.
My Edward Green's are the most comfortable dress shoes I have ever worn. Fits my fit like a glove!
Those amberjack shoes are a joke. Absolutely terrible design, it baffles me that men can look at these & think they look good, completely devoid of any shape.
As you have rightly said the numbers are way smaller than the glamor those brands have in the minds of their customers, that should have been a red flag for the owners long time ago, certainly they don't have the right strategies in place.
If we look at Church’s for instance, they have been bought by Prada. While that’s not great, it kept them going. So I don’t think they are all going to just disappear. The well made dress shoe is timeless, like a suit. There will always be a need for them.
A few years ago Tricker’s had an event at their Jermyn Street store and I spoke to someone who joined the company in an advisory capacity a few years prior. They said that when they arrived, the shoes on offer were mostly brown without much variety. Now the range looks very different with Kudu leather and deerskin, Castorino suede and Olivvia leather (tanned with olive tree leaf instead of chromium).
A crisis is a time for innovation.
Really Terrific video. I am in the UK on a short-term work contract and I feel vindicated in the five or six pairs of shoes that I have bought thus far. I was tossing up whether to buy my wife, a pair of Brogues from trickers… I definitely will do so now.
Watching this video on the comfort of a tracksuit... But seriously, always wanted a pair of Trickers. Someday, I hope.
Thank you this important update
I see more men wearing what to me looks like sports shoes, not even a deck shoe, in the office.
It was a treat last week an old pal invited me to his club in London for a pint when I was working down there. Mandatory tie & jacket dress code and thankfully I was suitably dressed for work that day. Not a trainer in sight!
I wore my only pair of Tricker's today (a single monk strap wing tip brogues in tan calf skin). I will weep and mourn if Tricker's stops making....
I will say, shoes made in or by Spanish, Italian and even Chinese makers are really making an impact on the global market for classic, welted men's shoes.
Tony
This is a real shame. Sadly they don't offer wide sizes, so I haven't tried them, but they're legendary over here in Canada.
Trickers do offer at least four in a wide (“6”) fitting - Grassmere and Malton (the wide version of the iconic Stow) boots, plus Matlock and Keswick (the wide version of the iconic Bourton) shoes. I have a wide foot and these are by far the most comfortable, well made shoes I own, with no skimping on the quality of the materials. They’re expensive, but feel they’ll last decades if well looked after. I’d love it if Trickers did more of their range in a wide fitting.
@@jamesray5293 Oh! Thank you for this info, I will see if I can seek some of these out. I appreciate it, sir.
I wanted to buy a pair of Trickers but couldn’t find a supplier here in the Netherlands. From there I ended up with Crockett & Jones. Brexit must play a role in this as the shoes will be more expensive in mainland Europe.
I've always adored the dress shoes, but once i've decided to adopt a healthy lifestyle, they weren't the option anymore, as i do a ton of walking, i walk pretty much everywhere, and my only option now is nike trainers, always kept very clean though. My "smartest" shoes now are a pair of brown and black chelsea boots. Wore them once so far this year, but when it comes to aesthetics they are the ones i always put my eyes on.
I commute everyday in my Greens, Lobbs, JM Weston’s etc. people are surprised to see me walking so spryly in them but when these shoemaking techniques were originally developed & refined, there was not much of a choice but to walk. I wouldn’t hesitate to travel a couple miles in my oxfords or brogues & have haha!
They’ll never die! Provably they reduce or rethink their company business. Personally i have 20 pairs of tricker’s shoes, also several alden. And i”ll buy more and more. Thing is that are shoes not for all. They last a lifetime, and if you have not enought money to buy every year, you just buy one every five or ten years. I prefere walk on those high end shoes even if is a 30 years old than to spend 200€ in a nike mande from children i don’t know where….
I tend to by a lot of real made in england item, and made in italy. Just to support those manufacture. I do hate made in china bangladesh and so on..
Trickers do make good shoes. So does Church and Crocketts. Here in Australia we have RM Williams. Also a maker of good shoes and boots. 😉
Possiedo molte paia di scarpe originali inglesi.
Magnifiche .
Di grande qualita'.
Di grande classe.
Inimitabili.
Un saluto dall'Italia !
I'd be gutted if Tricker's went under; I own four pairs and these are the most fabulous and sturdy shoes I possess. The heritage, quality, styling and design are second to none. Every gentleman should own a few pairs of Tricker's. Yes, the price may seem a little steep, but they will last you decades upon decades. The enjoyment of Tricker's shoes will remain long after the price is forgotten, I can attest to that. Gentleman, buy Tricker's; you will be blown away!
I agree, they are wonderful shoes.
Liked the little slip up at the end: "the dress of the death shoe." Now that would be an interesting topic! 😊
I wake up and I am handed a steak and potato supper and a video from Ash put out 8 mins ago. Nice! In Canada the one to look out for is Hartt. I was shocked to find a billboard for them on our Main St. as I didn't think they were around. Sadly, their website shows much of their shoes made overseas in places but the prices are if they were made in Canada. $500+ too. I don't know of any other Canadian shoe company these days. You just don't find quality men's shoes at our stores here, they are all throwaways.
Try Viberg and Dayton Boots. Both based and made in BC afaik
Just because a manufacturer has a long history doesn’t mean they are efficient and desirable to the customer. Many shoemakers have more business than they can handle. Trickers may rested on its laurels.
I own about 15 pairs of shoes. I’d like to own a stylish pair of brown dress shoes. Thursday Boots has a reasonably priced selection.
Thursdays make great boots.
Many thanks Ash for this video. When I’m in London next month I will buy a pair of shoes from Trickers. This is what they need, people to buy there shoes. But the other brands are a concern as well. I will note the shoe brands mentioned in this video and buy only from them as well. The more that do this the better. Then there is the rag trade. The list will go on and on. I need to think carefully we’re I buy from because these great brands will be lost forever. Ash I think you have hit on a serious issue for these companies that your subscribers might be able to help these companies. Let’s face it we all have trainers, but I’m going to think a bit more on my future purchases.
It's always sad to see any legacy brand go under and I hope they can pull it off, but quality control really seems to be an issue with some of these brands. Allen Edmonds have become almost as garbage as Johnston & Murphy and Florsheim now. My favorite AEs are from the 70's if that says anything. I don't have enough experience with the British brands but I'd sell a nephew or two for some John Lobbs. 😎
I have twelve pairs of AE's and agree that their direction is leaving me behind. The good news is that my most used shoes have been recrafted several times and should last the remainder of my working life. My complaint with AE is that the shoe can last for a generation, but they do not stock any quantity of laces that match the original texture and color.
I have pairs of AEs from the 70's and 80's and when I compare them to the Strands I have that are only a few years old, the difference is night and day. Their quality has fell off of a cliff. It's sad.@@michaelgray9118
Moar of us wear running shoes when not dressed up for work.
Great video making such an important point. My favourite brand at the moment is Barker, one reason being that I've been able to get a couple of really well made goodyear welted brogues that actually fit me, and at an extremely reasonable price. I need extra wide (G) shoes for a comfortable fit, and most brands simoply don't have any options for me in the styles that I want. It's these traditional brands such as Barker that perhaps haven't been as successful as some in marketing themselves to the online shoe afficionado crowd that are suffering. There is a lot of nonsense online about relatively trivial criteria when choosing between shoe brands (often associated with inflated prices), so that brands making honest high quality, hand made shoes and offering a wide range of sizes are unfairly losing out to those who are a little more adept at playing the hipster-fashion game, but at the expense of offering a wide range of practical options at fair prices. I would appeal to everyone to support these traditional, "no nonsense" hight quality brands before we lose them...
Here in Germany stores that had Trickers dont sell them any more. I orderd a pair that ended up being half size too small. Im thinking to get half size up when i save up. Quality and style is great. I hope they survive. They're time should be aroud the corner as the workware and gentlemen's stuff is becoming more spotlighted. Especially as the Redwing is making people aware of retractable footware. Through statics i have more than standard for shure
I’m in the market for some new tan brogues and hoping I can snag a Black Friday deal. I have some Cheaney brogue boots that I love but are definitely in need of a repair after this season. The main thing for me is the dainite sole, game changer!
No one can complain when these businesses go under when they only buy them from factory outlets or eBay.
I know some people can’t afford to pay retail, But how many of us choose not too.
I am a proud owner of a Hx London Brogue Derby Shoes ... recently bought it and I absolutely love that shoes ...Love from India for this brand
I was in a very busy establishment last night and was the only man wearing dress shoes.The younger generation will think nothing of spending £800 on a pair of trainers which is absolute madness to me.
That's what I'll never understand. People have no qualms with paying well over $200 (or much more) for shoes that were made in a sweatshop for 37 cents a pair, and with no way of fixing them when they wear out, and are forced to trash them and add to the plastic waste.
Now, I don't have numbers, but if you looked at a $200 pair of Nike or whatever other brand's trainers, and a pair of, say, $500 Dress shoes. For example, you'd be paying something like a 1000%+ markup for the trainers, vs maybe a 50% markup for the dress shoes. All this is assuming just material costs, not labor.
The point I'm making is: People are being ripped off by these big name sports brands selling their cheap plastic; When for the same price you can get better materials and craftmanship for the same price while not getting nearly as ripped off as far as raw materials go.
Agree, it’s not that people don’t have the money or will to spend lots of money on footwear, it’s that they are choosing to spend it on low quality designer trainers…..
Agree, it’s not that people don’t have the money or will to spend lots of money on footwear, it’s that they are choosing to spend it on low quality designer trainers…..
That's the market. No matter how much we cry out that we want to be unique, people in general love to conform to a uniform.
Unfortunately the uniform of our time is jeans+t-shirt+trainers.
I'm happy I got to buy my first pair of Loake in their Birmingham store and because I was the only customer at that time I got a lovely experience.
Not even half a year after that, Loake decided to close the store, so they weren't doing so well in 2021/2022.
In these days companies can only survive if the demand is high and sells are high. With inflation soaring, wages falling, pensions disappearing one cannot sell anymore enough. Only serving the rich is not enough in number. True. Give us jobs and higher wages then the economy will strive. But managers prefer to get their millions and not share. Economy works if you share the money for people to buy. Sad but reality : it's ALL about and in the money.
I was shocked when I checked the current job market and saw that I had a slightly higher salary 30 years ago compared to what is being offered today for the same job. With inflation, it really isn't surprising that many established companies have closed down or are struggling. Like a pair of dress shoes I bought 25 years ago today costs about 6 times the price it used to be. This company had to change ownerships a few times.
Hope things get better for those companies. Nice boots.
I also buck the trend many pairs some still unworn. Will be there when I'm long gone grensons , loakes and the rest.
Wonderful jacket and tie combo Mr. Jones.
Hello Ash, greetings Ashlings; this is a well-researched and thoughtful essay, and inspires the question, "what will be the footwear of choice be for the Chap of Tomorrow?" And as you indicate, "tomorrow" may be very near! Can you suggest likely prospects among contemporary styles and brands?
Looking at the statistics you shared, it seems that year over year, the profits are on an upward trend. So perhaps despite the margins which may or may not be normal, we can at least deduce that they are at least doing better than previous years coming out of the pandemic. That isn’t to say there shouldn’t be real concern about the longevity of these craftsmen that I hope will continue to exist long term with the support of the sartorial community.
I hope so Reg. I'm sure these businesses have never been hugely profitable and are well prepared to weather the societal trends.
Nooo! I need my pair of Trickers before they say good bye!!
Great video which personally the dress shoe isn't dying it's eveloinve and expanding much like the British mobility industry has... Much like a Roll's isn't just a massive handbuilt top luxury sadan with a V12 motor any more but the same thing just with a emotor. Some dress shoes are now like nikes runners but not as they are leather and look classy but still have some function of the nike's. Others are what I call monolythic as they are one peice leather making them the most formal black tie/business shoe(Depending on color) I ever seen and they are slip ons... As for me I have only bought 4 dress shoes in my life but daily rrunner for the rest of the time... the 4 I bought were a bargen ben pretty navy blue shoes, black $90 loafers a dacade ago for prom and Black and green Rothco jungle boots while mean and can take what ever you throw at them... are extremely high quality leather, rubber and polyester but finishing is bad oh well for $40 new and they shine nice... And $200 Cole hann dress nikes I got for 50% off which should have some of the function of max custion runners but with a leather upper that I'll try to mirror shine... Which I don't plan to wear the boots and dress nikes daily I might though because they are nice. But instead when I need to look nice on recording when talking about my products or giving out year end awards. Which something I noticed is both of thos new fangle dress shoes go by the same names as traditional ones... Which personally I have issue with as it makes them very hard to find... But yeah I think those companies can survive if they evolve and come out with more styles that are modern yet still classy.
Lets be honest Loake and Barker are the brands that offer the highest price a normal bloke wanting his usual two pairs (wingtips+oxfords) would pay. Trickers, Churchs and Cheaney are on the top, its tough like any business. Not to say those brands should die or something, I just see it through the eyes of a guy from central Europe where every pair of shoes over £110 is considered as expensive and unnecessary. And thats coming from a dude who recently pourchased Barker oxfords for £265 (yes, Ash here has quite an influnce on me haha). I can´t even tell my parents about that.
I was just looking at Trickers…sounds like it’s time to buy.
Now or never!
Very sad news. Thanks for letting us know.
Rich people wear clothes that demand effort; vicuña, cashmere, silk, Jermyn St cotton shirts that need ironing, serious shoes that have very thin leather soles; but are worn daily in rotation, £5k Savile Row suits that need valeting, Hermes silk ties that can’t be cleaned; but end up being thrown away……..it’s the difference between the modern masses and them.
For the past couple years, since I have become aware of the fullness of their quality, I only wear “real shoes” (dress)with my British, set being the highest in my collection . I am doing my best to advertise the British shoe, my friend,
The thing is, companies that cling to a single declining product will inevitably go under. That is the fault of the director(s) for not diversifying and the shareholders for not forcing them to do so. It sounds like Loake are branching out. A company that makes a range of products can continue to take pride in quality higher end items while also knocking out more popular stuff. I have two pairs of good dress shoes and other pairs such as walking boots, chukka boots and trainers for the gym which I don't expect to last. The dress shoes, because they're so well made, will probably outlive me and I won't buy another pair.
Hi Ash, would love to hear your view on Cavalry Twill trousers. Per Ardua.
tbh, as rugged the trickers look is. Most young people want comfortable, sleek, cool dress shoes and Trickers isnt that brand. I like the shoes but it doesnt pop out, and its more expensive than barkers. Thats just how I view trickers. Better looking brands if not cheaper than Trickers. Id like a pair of trickers shoes, but just too much for a simple look.
Hey I looked at the prices, maybe that has something to do with it $800, I guess I could understand the quality but I haven't bought a Rolex cause I don't appreciate their quality it's cause I can't afford it.🙂
Great sport's blazer by the way
They make a cracking boot
I have no need for dress shoes in my daily life and, although I have some decent shoes, I don't wear them anymore. I live in walking boots, and have invested in more traditionally styled and made boots for daily wear as well as outdoor use rather than modern, brightly coloured technical boots. It's difficult to buy British in that area as only one British boot manufacturer remains, I don't think their lasts woukd suit, so I'd have to go bespoke and anyway, some of their products are Italian-made. I favour an Italian boot brand as their last suits me well and they're a good-looking boot too. I remember having some Northamptonshire-made Frank Thomas motorcycle boots decades ago. It's a shame but as men wear formal clothes less and less dress shoes aren't required. I'd love to buy British footwear for my own requirements but, as mentioned above, there's very little in the way of options anymore.
The idiotic prices people pay for some "vintage" basketball and sports shoes makes me think there is an avenue to raising these profiles into somewhat of a "must have" element especially for those in aspirational and higher profile upper brackets.
I must admit to my own ignorance of many of these brands and companies myself - perhaps a series on these makers and the finer details of what they do would be worthy? May certainly open the world up more for foreign customers especially in the US where we're seeing some UA-cam channels focused on awareness of style and substance over mere fickle fashion.
Agreed!
This is no joke. I used to buy Hartt Shoes from Fredericton, New Brunswick, in Canada. I worked a block away from the factory at the time and they had a great shop on site, where you could buy "seconds" very cheaply. They were indistinguishable from their cosmetically perfect shoes. I bought 3 pairs of shoes from them thirty years ago and they're still in use today. They really do last a lifetime with a bit of care. Sadly, the Hartt Shoe Factory went out of business in 1999. It has been resurrected, of sorts, by bringing in shoes made in a similar way, from Spain. You really can't take anything for granted.
Despite the ongoing disruptions caused by remote work none of these companies are losing money, even Tricker's has rebounded from a big loss in 2021, so the situation may not be entirely dire.
Where does Church's figure in, they're by far the best known English brand in the US?
I think Church's were sold to Prada and their quality has gone down hill ever since.
I am glad that I have my nine Church's before Prada. Quality is good on mine.
I recently took apart and restored a pair of 2016 Church Darwin loafers. The materials were very good, upper leather was quite thick, the construction was absolutely standard British goodyear construction, they use a steel shank where as a pair of Crocketts I restored used a wooden shank and Cheaneys used a combi composite piece riveted to a steel shank... doesn't matter really. The sole leather they used was sourced from a Spanish supplier and was decent leather. Church's traditional goodyear shoes are perfectly traditional British Goodyear shoes. I replaced the sole with J F Baker's oak bark pit tan sole leather... so mine are even more British now lolz@@peterbarratt3416
Recently visited Seoul, and while the general public is well-dressed, virtually everyone wears sneakers (even trainers) as streetwear. It’s because of all the walking. I myself love a good pair of dress shoes and the elegance of leather soles. Watch any Hitchcock film from the 1950s or Connery era James Bond, and the distinction is clear.
Very unlikely Tricker's will disappear because the brand itself is so valuable. More likely it'll be bought - maybe by another company, possibly by private equity.
Church's got bought out by Prada and are struggling due to Prada having no clue what to do with the brand. They lowered the quality and increased prices by over 50%.
Thank you for the video, Ash. The topic is quite interesting. I think the demand is still out there from abroad, the influence of exported English culture. The problem is that these companies are often overleveraged from buy-outs. They are therefore unable to set competitive prices that match cost of living. A good example is Churches purchased by the Italian company that doubled the price of its shoes. Anticipating some of these trends, I have purchased enough to last me two lifetimes 😅
I'm not English but i get my suits cut in drape style, double vented, 3 button; my tailor says i wear braces, not suspenders; half of my shoes are English (Church's/Royal Tweed, Barker, etc).
I like English sartorial style and heritage and makes me sad that Church's sold out - so did Allen Edmonds and Florsheim before them in America.
As a young man i can't buy anything good nowadays, i have to buy used or bespoke
Nooooo! Trickers make beautiful shoes. I, and my wife have pairs of Trickers (I wore a blue pair when I got married), and they are wonderful shoes. I hope that they can be saved!
From those figures, dress shoe manufacturing is in trouble. Their profits are miniscule compared to Crocs, Nike, Adidas, etc. who have tremendous economies of scale, make cheap, sell high. I was in a Nike store a few times and it was packed as always, many families. People bought several pairs of shoes at once as there were more discounts, then the whole family from children to grandparents get shoes. That won't happen with dress shoes. Maybe if dress shoe makers can pay a famous athlete to help them, their fortunes may get better a bit.
You're right, enjoy them while they are still here.
The small profit margins could be intentional if these companies are reinvesting it into the company. The more money reinvested the less the taxman gets.
Unfortunately its the way things are going, 20 years time pretty much everyone will be wearing machine made, possibly 3d printed Sketcher type footwear and the futures version of a smart watch on the wrist, with the power of a supercomputer with AI, AR/VR running every aspect of our lives (Equally devastating to traditional watch making). It's looking bleak for both industries (Traditional Shoe and Watch making).
It's a shame to say it, but it's probably going the way it did with the small Norwegian shoe factories and textile factories of which we had many, they were flagged off to low-cost countries in Asia. Here are some facts about a small town that was called Skobyen Halden, a term that expressed the shoe industry's strong position in the town until the 1950s. In the late 1950s, around 750 people worked in at least 14 shoe factories in Halden. These companies accounted for 20% of all shoe production in Norway. The industry was the second largest industry in the city.
That's it. I'm buying a pair of Trickers....and ONLY from this list of brands in the coming years.
All those brands are still making a profit and were making more money last year than the year before. Also don't forget that inflation was very high through 2022 and now it is dropping back down. This pushed up costs. This means that if inflation can be kept under control then profits for 2023 and 2024 onwards should be higher.
Would be nice to see a follow up in a year’s time.
The results actually don’t surprise me, when you mentioned the different brands I expected c&j and loake to be doing well followed by cheaney, that itself is interesting.
First paycheck out of college I bought a pair of Allen Edmonds Park Avenues and a pair of Alden full strap loafers. They are in storage and only come out for weddings. The service boot has replaced them.
Lamentable!
Very sad news indeed, I have a variety of both dress shoes and everyday shoes from these manufacturers. We cannot afford to lose these historical names and such skillful manufacturers. Once they have gone their will not be others of such quality. I plan on visiting Northampton in the very near future. 😊👞
An interesting video and points are well made regarding the current state of British shoe manufacturing. However, if people fear the death of some of these shoe-manufacturing institutions in the near future & are genuinely concerned, the answer is to start supporting these brands by buying directly from them, rather than from Ebay or other secondhand places, which does nothing to inject capital into these businesses. Just a thought!
For those with the funds, I would encourage the same route. But for those, who are fiscally challenged, the Ebay route is a good way to enter the field of elite men's footwear.
And it might encourage the seller to re-invest@@TheChapsGuide
@@TheChapsGuide
That's fair enough, & each to their own. Personally, for something I'm wearing for at least 8-12 hrs plus each day, I want them to be as comfortable as possible, which means the correct fit. You can't guarantee this from the secondhand market, which in turn can affect the user's perception of what the fit & feel of shoes at this level truly should be. So, yes, you can save some money, but more than likely, you're not getting a properly fitted pair of shoes.
But my point wasn't about an individual's attainability, but to highlight the fact that the secondhand market does little to support the manufacturers. If we want these businesses to continue & thrive into the future; we have to be prepared to spend our money with them. After all, where are you going to get your 'Elite' Ebay shoes repaired when the company no longer exists? The local cobbler? If that's the case, maybe a main area of consideration of owning a pair of 'Elite" shoes is being missed! I feel, we who express an interest in these sartorial endeavors, have a duty of care to directly support these fine British companies. In the words of the Rolling Stones .... "You can't always get what you want" ...... so save up!!
@@paulrobinson7 Agree wholeheartedly. I do own some second hand pairs as well but you have to put your money where your mouth is. Ash had a video up a couple of months ago saying that he has never bought A-grade new shoes at retail price, most of his shoes up until recently were second hand. Well, then we don't have to be astonished that these brands are going out of business. And the low end Loakes are not what we are talking about. These are made in Asia as well, it won't keep English manufacturing alive.
Go out and spend some money. Instead of getting a new Rolex consider getting one or two pairs of NEW European made shoes. (Will even save you a few thousand bucks. ;) )
I'm no financial wizard, but looking at Tricker's profit margin, I'd say their main problem is some major management and operational inefficiencies.
Yesterday I received one complement on my tie, and one on my shoeshine.
Dressing well works, it makes us stand out and feel better about ourseleves.
Shocking how small these big names are... with fairly slim margins too! I bet the figures were even worse before they started selling under their own names too, since the death of British shoes on the High Street!? I can understand why not many people buy them in the UK, we have the second biggest wealth gap in the developed world... behind the US, so we can't rely on ordinary folk adding much to the sales in this country. I hope my restoring and resoling of used examples means that someone with more disposable than me can re-invest, I can't afford or justify 500 quid on a pair. I've not bagged a pair of Tricker's yet, but I understand they are top quality, tough and therefore perfect for the mean streets. I wish these wonderful makers all the best and long may they continue offering something good.
Very interesting
Unfortunately the cost of living and manufacturing has massively increased and Unfortunately we are not keeping up with risk of losing good quality shoes and good quality made in England High quality shoes and clothing.
These companies need to find the right avenue - marketing, business models, manufacturing scale - to sustain themselves. It's like Rolls Royce, Aston Martin, Bentley. Companies like Jaguar, Ferrari came close to bankruptcy at certain times and were bought out by other brands that knew how to do business better. Ferrari bought by Fiat for example back in the 60s. A lot of these more luxury brands have a parent company. Maybe we'll see that happen as a means of keeping companies like Tricker's going. It tends to be the case that while they might make beautiful shoes, they're not ran by the best businessmen.
It's a shame really but one of the great problems with UK products is the very high labor costs associated with hand made goods along with base materials themselves. The other problem(the canary in the coal mine) is the wide spread capitulation of people into wearing cheap and/or sports type footwear to compliment their spiral into grungy clothing in general! Very few people seem to make even a modicum of effort into their appearance anymore, very disheartening actually.
In some ways it's their own fault. Their collection is stagnant for many years and other than the Stow boot nothing else really comes to mind about the brand. Its sort of like alden's indy boot (which stays popular despite cornercutting in quality) but much less popular. Their country style is much more niche compared to other brands and it seems like they are in general less known to non-enthusiasts at least outside of england. . And unlike in the US, 500quid is a lot more to spend in the uk or europe.
Can’t desagree more. I have 20 pair of their shoes. And i know many people who buys them. They have they’re core clients since a lifetime. Personally their brogue are perfection in terms of styling and top for quality as always. They made many style so they have very versatile range of shoes. Provably you don’t know them well! Of course they don’t make sneakers which is what most of the traditional shoemakers does, but if you choose a tricker’s with gum sole is way more confortable than a sneakers.
@@MrMarcob73 You aren't really disproving my point. People who have 20 pairs of shoes are not mainstream customers, let alone if its all from one brand. Brand loyalty is nice but without reaching new customers profits stagnate and lead to this situation.
@@Aggnog i get it but i can say that real manufacture all mede in, never make a lots of money is a niche! Even savile raw tailoring they don’t make a lot of profits. As i say is a niche. Than those report are of 2021 and 2022, and 2021 it was a year still in trouble for pandemic. And Family Company that are selling worldwide have been more in trouble than others. It Is now and the years to come that they have to find solutions. We’ll see. Maybe they’ll be smaller in numbers but still running with they’re high quality. For sure if they will outsource manufactures clients will not buy their products for which they’re know for. Me for sure.
I must convey that I purchased myself the first pair I have ever bought of quality British boots. This Christmas I came across Leonard Jay of London shop, and noticed 50% off their merchandise. I was quick to notice amongst, their Church's, Barkers, Lakes some Tricker's shoes and boots. I was fortunate to ask for a pair of (size 9) Trickers Stout Boot to be kept on hold. I was thankful I did as on the day I tired them on I was told by the assistant others had asked about the Trickers Stout boots. I was questioning If I should dare spend such money as Im not exactly loaded but with the huge discount on top it was near impossible to ignore! Once I tired them on It was like putting my fit into a pair of Rolls Royce or Bentleys. Its amazing the quality of the craftsman and women at these legacy business. I defintely believe the likes of Trickers and others need to be protected for a British manufacturing legacy base. Cheers Ash you have helped me to become slightly more of a British Chappie !
Once tried always loved. The only problem is that you will never want to go back now.
I just knew this guy would be hanging out in Jermyn Street…
Respectfully Ash, if one buys their shoes second hand from eBay you add nothing to the company’s bottom line. Maybe we should all start paying full price again?
You are right! Him in the channel is talking always to buy on e-bay. I suggest Don’t buy 5 pairs on e bay, but buy one at full price. If you don’t do that, it is just bla bla bla.
It would be a shame to lose these traditions and products as well as the livelihoods of the craftspeople who take the care to design and manufacture them.
That's quite an interesting statistic about British men only having 4,5 pairs of shoes on average. Not counting the shoes I use exclusively for sports and hiking I have ten pairs of shoes and boots. Yet I feel I have to few. It might be an interesting thought exercise to wonder which to keep if I only had four or five pairs.
I've only recently gotten into English shoe manufacturers. Would always keep my Loake boots; Rivington, Bedale and Glendale. Also my all green suede Puma sneekers. But for the fifth pair (rounding up) should I keep either of the black dress boots from an Indian manufacturer (who's name escapes me) that I hardly ever wear, or a winter boot from Timberland for the worst of winter? Out goes, I guess, my Loake Chesters that are a tiny bit small and tire me out after a couple of hours. Definitly out my light brown Chukka boots from Hugo Boss and white leather sneakers.
How do people get by with so few pairs of shoes? OK. More seriously. Why do they want to get by with so few pairs?
I have 3 pairs of dress shoes, 2 black and 1 brown, all Curches. I hardly ever wear the brown pair because they’re half a size too small. I’ve them for 10 years+. I have 2 pairs of dress boots and 1 pair of functional boots. I wear the (Timberland) functional boots almost everyday and the other two maybe once a month. I have nowhere to put more and choose not to spend my disposable income on footwear. I would only buy another dress shoe if I got a job that required daily wear of a smart suit. No need for any more.
Similar to TM Lewin who went insolvent in the pandemic, and were purchased by another company. Now provide a much reduced selection of formal office style shirts
They had been struggling before the pandemic and then could not recover during the pandemic (again). Charles Tyrwhitt is still around but quality is down and prices are up.
And I thought I was slumming it with 12 pairs of shoes!
That Air Force salute.